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A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 



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A VOYAGE 



ROUND THE WORLD 



INCLUDING 



AN EMBASSY TO MUSCAT AND SIAM, 



IN 



18S5, 18^11, mM ISS'T, 



BY 

W. S. W. RUSCHENBERGER, M. D. 

SURGEON, U. S. NAVY ; HON. MEMBER OF THE PHILADELPHIA MEDICAL 

SOCIETY ; MEMBER OF THE ACADEMY OF NATURAL 

SCIENCES OF PHILADELPHIA, &C. 

AUTHOR OP " THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC." 



" J'ai dit le bien et le mal avec le meme franchise. — Rodsseau. 

" Believe me, I speak as my understanding instructs me ; and as mine honesty puts it to 
utterance." The Winter's Tale. 




PHILADELPHIA: 
CAREY, LEA & BLANCHAR; 

1838. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Caret, Lea 
& BiANCHARD, in the Clerk's Office of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 



OniGGS Sc CO., FRINTERS. 



V!? 



TO 

SAMUEL GEORGE MORTON, M. D, 

CORHESPONDIHG SECRETARY OF THE ACADEMX 
OF NATURAL SCIENCES. 

Dear Sir, 

I beg you will receive the dedication of this volumCj 
as a tribute of the esteem and respect of a friend, who, while 
he feels satisfied that he has spared no labor to make it worthy 
of being introduced to the world, under the sanction of your 
name, wishes it were more fitting your acceptance. 

Very sincerely, 

your friend, 

and ob't. servant, 

W. S. W. RuSCHENBERGERo 

Philadelphia, February, 1838. 



INTRODUCTION. 



ADVERTISEMENT, 



The following pages, besides the journal of an Embassy from 
the Government of the United States to the courts of Muscat, 
Siam, and Cochin-China, in the years 1835, 1836, and 1837, em- 
brace sketches in Zanzibar, Arabia, Hindoostan, Ceylon, Java, 
Siam, Cochin-China, China, the Benin Islands, the Sandwich Isl- 
ands, the Californias, Mexico, &c. 

The voyage round the world was performed on board of the 
U. S. Ship Peacock, commanded by C. K. Stribling, Esq., accom- 
panied by the U. S. Schooner Enterprise, Lieutenant Command- 
ing A. S. Campbell ; both vessels being under the command of 
Commodore Edmund P. Kennedy. 

Since this volume was put to press, a posthumous work, drawn 
up from the journals and letters of Mr. Roberts, written during 
the years 1832-3-4, has been published, in which may be found 
a history of the first negotiations with the courts of Cochin-Chi- 
na, Siam, and Muscat. Both works refer occasionally to the 
same subjects, but they are distinct, and in no way similar. 
Though the volume by Mr. Roberts possesses great interest, it 
will be found that the present one, in relation to the embassy is 
much more complete, and it is hoped the reader will find it not 
less amusing. 

Philadelphia, Fehniary^ 1838. 



VOYAC^E ROUMB TMB ^WHMIiB. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Voyages of circumnavigation have been so frequent of late, this 
being the fourth within seven years by American vessels of war, 
that neither novelty nor originality of matter or manner can be looked 
for in this work, though few ships have pursued the varied and 
extensive track of the Peacock. I, therefore, only promise the 
reader news of the several remote countries visited in relation to 
their manners, political state, commerce and religion, upon which 
topics the best sources of information have been carefully con- 
sulted. 

Let me caution the reader against expecting much in the way of 
light description and graceful anecdote^ " No vamos a bodas sino 
a rodear el mundo," said Sancho, when he bade Mari Fernandez to 
prepare every thing for setting out in search of adventures. I will 
say with simple Sancho, " We are not bound on a party of pleasure, 
but around the world," and though we may not expect in these days 
to encounter giants and dragons, we may happen upon many pleasant 
adventures. Therefore, Reader, be gentle and generous, and bear in 
mind Sancho's remark^ and when you encounter a dry statistical 
chapter, think it is one of the hardships of voyaging with us, and 
sustain yourself to the toil of reading it through, cheered with a hope 
of something pleasant thereafter, and the reflection, it will be for 
your good; and I will venture to assert, you will rise from the 
perusal improved in your knowledge, and, what is more important 
to me, without a disposition to blame the author for the little he has 
contributed to your amusement. That the volume contains no plea- 
sant stories to divert, nor ''strange tales of strange endurance" to 
move, is not his fault; for had events transpired during the cruise, 
2 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

fitting for such chronicle, he would have been delighted to record 
them. 

The volume may be charged with over-minuteness; but " There 
is nothing," says Dr. Johnson, "too little for so little a creature as 
man. It is by studying little things, we attain the great art of 
having as little misery and as much happiness as possible." Critics 
may find other points in the work to condemn; but we trust, some 
among our readers will derive amusement, if not instruction, from the 
following pages, written generally on the spot described, to bring 
into view of the home-staying, what, probably, they would have ob- 
served for themselves, had they been with the writer. 

The success of the work must depend upon the public; the author 
has endeavoured to deserve it. He has written for no theory, nor 
sect, nor party; but has aimed at truth, and hopes in hitting his 
mark, he has inflicted no wound on the pride or feelings of any of 
his readers. As far as the nature of his task admitted, he has avoided 
egotism — '* The time, place, persons, and all circumstances apologize 
for me; and why may I not be idle with others? Speak my mind 
freely? If you deny me this liberty, upon these presumptions I 
will take it." 

In presenting to the public a history of the embassy to Muscat 
and Siam, it may be proper to state, what were the opportunities en- 
joyed by the author for obtaining the necessary information. 

Mr. Roberts frequently expressed a wish that I would write the 
history of our cruise, and in order to enable me better to perform the 
undertaking, gave me free access to all documents in relation to 
the embassy, and on every occasion expressed his views and opinions 
on the several subjects which fell under our notice. Besides, he took 
great pains to assist me in procuring statistical information, which, 
owing to his official station, he was often able to obtain, when to 
others, perhaps, it might have been denied. To him I feel indebted, 
and with his many friends regret his loss to the country. 

In the early part of his life, Edmund Roberts, of Portsmouth, 
N. H., had visited several of the countries which lie to the eastward 
of the Cape of Good Hope, and from information then and subse- 
quently obtained, he inferred that those sections of the world of- 
fered a wide field to American enterprise and profit. But he was 
convinced, that voyages from the United States around the Cape of 
Good Hope, must continue to be limited to a few countries, and uncer- 
tain in their results, until treaties of amity and commerce should be 
formed between the government of the United States and several 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

powers of southern and Eastern Asiaj in order to open trade with 
some, and with others to settle definitely the manner in which our 
merchantmen should be received, and the charges to which they 
should be subject. In this latter respect, the practice in many 
countries is very irregular, depending more upon the notion or whim 
of the minister at the time, than upon any established law. 

Mr. Roberts communicated his views in detail to his friend, the 
Honourable Levi Woodbury, at that time Secretary of the Navy, 
who laid the subject before the President. It was determined after 
proper deliberation, that Mr. Roberts should visit the East, in ca- 
pacity, of *' Special Agent of the government," and obtain all the 
information he could, and negotiate treaties of amity and commerce 
with such Asiatic potentates, as he might find flivourably disposed. 

Early in the year 183^, Mr. Roberts sailed from the United States 
on board of the U. S. ship Peacock, then commanded by Captain 
David Geisinger, and visited Brazil, Buenos Ay res, Java, Manila, 
Canton, Singapore, Siam, Muscat, the Red Sea, &c. In May, 
1834, he returned, bearing with him two treaties which he had ne- 
gotiated, one with His Highness the Sultan of Muscat, and the other 
with His Magnificent Majesty, the King of Siam. These treaties 
were ratified by the President and Senate of the United States, in 
June, 1 834, and Mr. Roberts was appointed to exchange the ratifica- 
tions. The Peacock was again put in commission to carry him on 
his distant embassy, the history of which will be found in the follow- 
ing pages. *' Le aconsejo en esto lo que debe de hacer como dis- 
creto si no lealo, y vera el gusto que recibe, de su leyenda." 

Philadelphia, January, 1838. 



12 THE U. S. SHir PEACOCK 



CHAPTER I. 



VOYAGE TO RIO DE JANEIRO. 

JunCi 1835. 

When I bade farewell to my messmates in February, 1834, 1 little 
thought to be named in March, 1835, a member of another mess — 
** bounden brothers every man " — to roam the ocean, scarcely know- 
ing whither. Yet in one short year, the pains and privations of a long 
absence had dwindled into mere shadows of memory, and prepara- 
tions were made for another cruise, not, however, without feeling 
how deeply parting sinks into the heart. " First partings form a 
lesson hard to learn;" and it is doubtful whether any one can teach 
himself to say farewell to home, to friends, to country, without 
emotion — 

" There is a sort of unexpressed concern, 
A kind of shock, that sets one's heart ajar," 

which we cannot quite overcome, be the trial ever so frequent. At 
sunrise on the twenty-third of April, I was roused by the order, 
" All hands up anchor," delivered in the growling, imperative tones 
of the boatswain. The ship was speedily under sail. The city of 
New York, and its busy scenes receded fast from our view; the 
Narrows were passed; the bar was cleared, and at meridian the pilot 
bore away the cape letters. At sunset the land had faded away in 
the distance. Our hopes were all before us; and the past and the 
present were only remembered to contrast with the future. 

"A Dios amada playa; a Dios hogares." 

The United States ship Peacock, being not more than of six hun- 
dred tuns burden, is the smallest of her class. She has a light spar 
deck which frees the guns from the encumbrance of rigging, and, 
in port at least, affords Uic ofiicers a sheltered walk in very hot or 



LOVE OF THE SEA— SEA SICKNESS. 13 

rainy weather, besides a more ample space for the hammocks of the 
men. In other respects the ship has no commendable quality. She 
is an indifferent sailer, very wet, and, both for officers and crew, the 
accommodations are very limited.* She is armed with twenty thirty- 
two pound carronades and two long twelve pounders. 

The ship being fitted in the winter, when cordage is inflexible as 
bar-iron, the rigging stretchp.d very much on putting to sea, though 
every care had been taken in the outfit, and the seams opened in 
several places, so that whenever the ship laboured, she was uncom- 
fortably wet. A few days after sailing, we encountered fresh gales^ 
then the gun deck presented a scene of despair, and doubtless there 
were many regrets in mental reservation. The neophytes were 
swinging to and fro in their cots or hammocks, in obedience to the 
motions of the ship, wishing themselves safely on shore, free from the 
distressingly nauseating eflfects of the sea. How few would per- 
severe in the choice of the profession, could they but escape in the 
midst of the first fit of sea-sickness. Yet, when once over, how 
strong are the ties which bind them to the ocean! Indeed, the love 
of a sea life is an acquired taste, and, like all acquired tastes, it is 
apt to be enslaving. On one occasion I passed a night, at a French 
boarding-house, with a naval officer who had spent seventeen years 
actually at sea. He was very ill, but feeling himself somewhat 
more comfortable than he had been, towards morning, he remarked,^ 
" After all, doctor, there is no place for a man when sick like being 
on board ship." Such was not the opinion of those " young gentle-- 
men " who were now for the first time embarked upon the broad blue 
bosom of the Atlantic. 

Sea-sickness is a penalty — -a sort of initiation fee paid by every one 
who ventures upon the broad domain of Neptune. Many plans 
have been tried to alleviate the distress, beneath the influence of 
which the stoutest spirit quails, but no one of the many has been 
generally successful. In some individuals, nature speedily accom- 
modates herself to the new circumstances in which she is placed; in 
others, whole voyages are not long enough to habituate them to the 
motion of the ship; the disease continues, with more or less inten- 
sity, according to the roughness or smoothness of the sea. A simple, 
and generally successful treatment, consists in keeping the liead 
cooled by the application of ice or iced water, and swallowing 
nothing but the blandest articles of diet, as arrow root, barley op 

* For a list of the ofiicers and crew, see Appendix, 



14 VOYAGE TO RIO DE JANEIRO. 

rice water, &c. By this plan, the sense of fulness and constriction of 
the head, which characterize the invasion of the malady, will be 
relieved, and the patient will become comparatively comfortable. 
Ladies who cross the Atlantic in packet ships, where all the appli- 
ances of comfort procurable at sea are usually found, may find this 
hint not thrown out in vain. 

From the day of sailing, nothing of importance occurred out of the 
usual routine of ship's duty. The passage was remarkable for a 
great deal of rain, and we experienced very few days of really very 
pleasant weather. On the 28th of May, being close to the equator, 
we had a beautiful annular eclipse of the sun, between the hours 
of eleven and twelve o'clock A. M. Although the thermomoter did 
not sink, the air was sensibly cooler, and the whole atmosphere 
much darkened, yet no stars were seen. 

On the loth of June, at sunrise we saw the coast of Brazil, stretch- 
ing between Cape Frio and the harbour of Riode Janeiro, the hills, or 
rather mountains, rising in broken outline in the gray of the morning. 
The light land wind was quickly succeeded by a gentle sea breeze. 
About three o'clock P. M. we descried a large sail under the land 
to the westward of the Sugar Loaf, which proved to be the United 
States ship Natchez, bearing the broad pendant of Commodore Ren- 
shaw. At a distance of five miles we exchanged signals^ and, on 
hauling down our broad blue pendant and substituting a red one, 
as is the custom when a junior meets a senior commodore, we tired 
a salute of thirteen guns, v/hich was promptly returned. 

The breeze continued light, and fell almost calm as the sun sank 
lower, so that we moved along at a rate not exceeding two miles an 
hour. The sunset was a magnificent one, even for this tropical 
region. The soft tints of the sky changed from the lightest orange 
to a golden hue; from that to rosy, and then deepened to a blazing 
red, which last faded away into the soft gray of twilight, leaving 
the clouds no longer reflected upon by the sun, in their own som- 
bre colours. The effect of these hues on the imagination was height- 
ened by the bold and broken outline of the mountains, cast in strong 
relief, by a flood of light poured upwards from behind them as the 
sun sank. The moon was at her full, and as she rose, poured her 
silvery rays over the smooth surface of the waters; and the modest 
stars of the Southern Cross beamed forth in the calm purity of that 
religion of which this beautiful constellation is an emblem. The 
two ships of war, now slowly approaching each other, and with three 
or four small vessels, were standing in for the harbour. On board 



ARRIVAL AT RIO DE JANEIRO. 15 

of our own vessel, all hands were at their stations for bringing ship 
to anchor; and all were perfectly hushed, as if by a spell imparted 
by the quiet glories of the scene around. 

At half past five, the ships had approached so near that a boat 
boarded us from the Natchez, and informed us, that having been ad- 
vised of our sailing from New York by a vessel which had arrived, 
though she had sailed four days after us, the Natchez had been crui- 
sing oft* the harbor in expectation of our arrival. At eight o'clock 
we encountered the land wind, and were obliged to anchor outside of 
the harbor, where we lay very comfortably all night. The next 
morning we got under way, and about ten o'clock reached our an- 
chorage opposite to the city. As we passed up the bay, every one 
was charmed with the beauties of the scenery; indeed, several offi- 
cers recently from the Mediterranean, declared this bay to be in- 
comparably more magnificent than that of Naples. In fact, nothing 
can be more romantic and diversified than the scenery around Rio 
de Janeiro; turn where you may, the eye rests upon a spot to con- 
template and admire. But the sight is not the only sense which is 
delighted at Rio: there is a balmy sort of influence in the atmo- 
sphere which soon saps all industrious intentions, and induces a pro- 
crastinating disposition which is difficult to overcome. Every one 
seems rather disposed to indulge in the quiet animal enjoyments of 
eating, drinking, smoking, lounging and sleeping, leaving to slaves 
all kinds of manual labor, and hence the embonpoint amongst wo- 
men and obesity amongst men of the Creole and Portuguese resi- 
dents. 



SKETCHES 



IN 



THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN 



OF 



MUSCAT. 



DOUBLE THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 19 



VOYAGE AROUND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ZANZIBAR. 

Septemher^ 1835. 

By the third of July the ship had been refitted, and to reciprocate 
civilities which had been extended to ns, the officers of the ward- 
room, on the sixth, gave an entertainment on board. As is usual on 
such occasions the decks were dressed with bunting, flags, flowers 
and lights, supported and reflected by bright bayonets, cutlasses 
and pikes, disposed in the form of chandeliers. Music was ob- 
tained on shore, and suited well both feet and ears. About eight 
o'clock P. M. the company assembled, danced, walked, talked, ate, 
and congeed at three in the morn. People of several nations and 
sorts were present, civil and military, in black and in embroidered 
coats. The beauty of many of the ladies might be praised,- but there 
was one, a Brazilian, scarcely sixteen, and already married, Vv'hose 
charms were declared beyond eulogy, by those who had 'seen balls 
and revels in their time.' 

The night passed away gaily, and many flattering compliments to 
our taste were paid by our guests. They assured us, that it was the 
most brilliant affair that had taken place afloat in the harbor of Rio| 
several invitations were extended to the officers by Brazilians, an 
unusual circumstance, and we were informed one or two entertain- 
ments were to be given on its account. 

On the 12th of July we put to sea, accompanied by the U. S. Schoon- 
er Enterprise, Lieutenant-Commandant, Archibald S, Campbell, but 
soon found her to be so indifferent a sailer, that it was determined by 
the Commodore to appoint a rendezvous and part company. In 
obedience to a signal she came close alongside, and the orders, tied 
in a piece of canvass and loaded with lead, were thrown on board. 
That night we parted 

Crossing the Southern Atlantic, attended by a common succession 
of fair and foul weather, v/e doubled the Cape of Good Hope and 



20 PORTUGUESE MEN-OF-WAR 

entered the Mozambique channel, the scene of the first exploits of 
Vasco de Gama in the Eastj but we saw nothing of the •' Flying 
Dutchman;" seeing, however, off the cape a huge animal whose en- 
ormous back, covered with sea-weed and barnacles rose several feet 
above the water, and had it remained quiet, every one would have 
marked it as a rocky islet of the ocean, but it sank in a few mo- 
ments after it was discovered. What contributed much to the idea 
of its insular nature was the light green colour of the water, although 
we were too far at sea for soundings. 

The south-west monsoon was drawing to a close, and in our pas- 
sage through the Mozambique channel, we encountered currents 
and calms; the former in our favor, the latter, of course, against us. 
One of those calm nights was exquisitely beautiful; the sky was 
cloudless and so brilliantly starry, that its deep blue color was dis- 
tinct. At the same time the surface of the ocean was tranquil, and 
like a polished steel mirror reflected the whole heavens, and our 
ship, seemingly suspended between the two, floated among the 
stars— 

" These friendly lamps 
For ever streaming o'er the azure deep. 
To point om' path and light us to our home." 

One day, while becalmed, the shaded thermometer standing at 
78° F. and great piles of motionless clouds, whose rolled-up edges, 
silvered by the beams of a mid -day sun, were reflected from the 
ocean, we observed numerous little animals of the zoophyte tribes 
drifting slowly past us. Amongst them w^ere '' Portuguese men-of- 
war," [Holuthuria physalis Lin.) and disks of from a half inch to 
two inches in diameter, belonging to the family of Medusae {Medusa 
porjnta Lin.) Sailors are fond of observing animals of all kinds, and 
no sooner was their attention directed to those in our vicinity, than 
they began to fish for them with buckets, or tin pots attached by 
rope-yarns, or with tin pots seized to poles. 

The first disk caught was compared to the passion flower. These 
animals are perfectly round, flat, very thin and beautifully radiated. 
Their color is of a yellowish white, and the edge is fringed with 
delicate blue threads from one to three inches long, according to the 
size of the disk. These threads or tentacula3 are, no doubt, the mem- 
bers with which the animal is provided for seizing its food. The 
possession of one begot a desire for more, and the dinggy — a small 



JANTIIINA, 21 

skiff— was lowered, and, accompanied by Lieutenant II- — — , I 
put off from the ship. We caught many '' passion flowers," and 
several Portuguese men-of-war. The last is a transparent bladder 
of air, of irregular form, two or three inches long, somewhat corru- 
gated on the top, and armed below bj numerous short tentaculse and 
one or two slender threads, several feet in length, set with diminu- 
tive blue masses, giving them the appearance of strings of fine beads. 
This appears to form the instrument of attack. The animal possesses 
the power of stinging, as our oarsman found| for his fmger, after 
being touched by one, swelled and the pain darted to his shoulder. 
He compared the pain to that of a wound inflicted by a bee; it be- 
came so annoying, that we were obliged to set him on board ship, 
where he was speedily relieved by the application of aqua ammonia. 

The ocean was filled with small animals darting in all directions; 
some flashing in the sun like rubies, and others, like hairs of glass. 
We observed floating on the surface, small white masses, about three 
inches long and one thick, resembling, at a short distance, froth or air 
bubbles. We found, on examination, they were attached to very 
delicate, violet-colored shells, belonging to Lamark's genus Jan- 
thina. Over the vesicular buoy of this animal, the Portuguese 
man-of-war manages to cast his thread, and, like a spider en- 
tangling his prey in his web, separates the shell from its buoy, and 
feeds upon his spoi!. When taken, the Janthina emits about a tea- 
spoonful of a deep purple fluid, in order, perhaps, like the cuttle 
fish, to darken the water around, and thus elude the pursuit of his 
enemies. " Here, sir," said Jack, handing me a shell, " Here sir, is 
one that a Portengal has been afoul of-^he is spitting blood."* 

Among other forms of animal life was one resembling a shield, an 
inch or two long, of a deep bluish color, and having a thin sail, 
transparent as glass, shaped like a Gothic arch, set diagonally and 
permanently across it. A slight shelly structure forms its basis; and 
from the under surface hang numbers of thread-like tentacul^. 
Pieces of wood pierced by worms (Teret^o Navalis) v/ere also picked 
up. 

While Ashing for these various objects, remarking the millions of 
little animals floating, or darting about, only a few inches beneath the 
surface of the sea, we observed that in the course of five minutes, 

* I afterwards met with the Janthina, on the coast of Malabar, in the China sea, 
in the gulf of Siam and at the Sandwich Islands, Tlios^ seen at the last place 
were very much larg-er tlian any met with before. 



£2 EFFECT OF CALMS. 

the water became transparent, and nothing was to be seen, except 
here and there a stray man-of-war. Without any perceptible cause 
they had all disappeared^ the Janthina had gathered in his float, and 
sunk into the depths of the sea, thence to arise again by inflating 
his vesicular buoy, through means which are yet secret to man. I 
am under the impression, the animal has the power of reproducing 
it, when by any accident it may be lost. A fish called the porcupine 
fish, from the skin being covered with numerous spines, belonging 
the family of gymnodontes (Cuv.) has an apparatus by which it is ca- 
pable of distending itself with air until it swells almost to a globular 
form; when inflated, it turns upon its back and floats upon the surface, 
and were it not for the spines which are erected by inflation, would thus 
fall an easy prey to its pursuers. We caught several of the tribe. Two 
hours before sunset not a living thing could be seen in the watery, the 
calm continued — 

" The broad blue ocean and the deep blue sky, 
Looking- with langour into each other's face." 

On this occasion, Commodore Kennedy stated, he had been once, 
for ten days, in so complete a calm, that the animalculae died, and 
the ocean exhaled from its bosom, on all sides, a most insufferable 
stench. Instances of this kind illustrate the utility and necessity of 
winds and the agitation of the seas: absolute calms, continued for 
any considerable period, in the winds or waves, would prove equally 
fatal to all manner of animal life. The respiration of all animals, 
whether this function be carried on by lungs, or gills or other organs, 
is essential to their being. Those living on land breathe the atmo- 
sphere, and rob it, at each inspiration, of a portion of oxygen, which 
principle is necessary to existence; those inhabiting the deep derive 
the same principle from the waters, though by different means; and 
in both cases, the air, or water, thus deprived of its vital principle, 
must be replaced by fresh supplies, or in a very short time all the 
oxygen in their vicinity is exhausted, and the animals, whether of sea 
or land, must perish. But such catastrophes are guarded against, 
and we find no phenomenon of nature without its purpose; the soft 
zephyr, and gently undulating sea, as well as the hurricane and 
surging billow, equally in keeping with the great scheme of the uni- 
verse, serve to prevent stagnation and consequently the death of all 
nature. 

One afternoon becalmed in the Mozambique channel, in sight of the 
African coast, several sharks were seen in the neighbourhood of the 



SHARK-FISHING. 



ship^ and to giatify the antipathy which Jack takes every opportu- 
nity to indulge against them, a large hook, armed with two or three 
pounds of salt pork, and attached to a small rope, was thrown over 
the stern. Presently a large fish of the tribe approached, moving 
gracefully only a few feet below the surface of the transparent 
ocean, darting now in one direction and now in another, resting for 
a moment to survey the space around him before changing his course. 
He gradually drew near, attended by the pilot fish, sailing as usual, 
a few feet beneath him and following all his motions. At last the 
bait attracted his attention, and, urging himself forward by a single 
effort, he supinated his body, opened wide his jaws and closed them 
with a devouring, but fatal avidity upon the hook. Till this moment 
the officers and men had silently watched their prey, but now the 
fisherman jerked the line, and a half dozen exclaimed, '^' You've got 
him! you've got him!" In spite of violent struggles to escape, the 
fish was drawn close under the stern and his head raised above the 
water. Officers and men hung over the bulwarks, exultation beam- 
ing in their countenances, to catch a sight of the animal, which rested 
quietly glaring his great eyes upon his enemies. The next step, in. 
order to get him on board, was to pass a bowline or noose round his 
body, which required dexterity^ for whenever the rope touched the 
shark, he struggled so violently as to endanger breaking the hook. 
At last he was secured and was quickly seen floundering, and lashing 
his powerful tail upon deck. In an instant a dozen knives were 
gleaming around him; and he had been dragged scarcely to the main- 
mast, before the tail was severed from his body by successive blows 
of an axe. His abdomen was ripped up, and his heart cut out, laid 
palpitating for some time upon the fluke of an anchor. Still he 
floundered, and so powerful were his muscular exertions that several 
strong men could not control them. His huge jaws, armed with five 
rows of sharp teeth, were removed, his brain exposed and head cut 
off; and in five minutes, parts of his body still quick with life, were 
frying at the galley under the knife and fork of the cooks, while the 
fins and tail, like so many trophies were hung up to dry. 

This fish was about ten feet long, and his jaws were capacious 
enough to bite off a man's leg; but it was a small one, if we may 
credit Blumenbach,* who states that the white shark, '' weighs some- 
times as much as 10,000lbs, and even whole horses have been found 
in its stomach." 

* Elements of Natural History. London, 1825. 



24 SHARK-FISHERIES PEW FISH AT SEA, 

On every shark which. I have seen caught, there is attached, gene- 
rally under a fin, a remarkable fish, called a sucker or sucking-fish. 
It adheres to sharks or other bodies by a flat oval disk, having a soft 
skinny margin, and traversed by from twenty to thirty plates or 
scales, which may be elevated or depressed at the pleasure of the 
animal, and by which it exhausts the air and water beneath, and 
sticks with a firmness or power equal to the pressure of the water or 
air above. Hence, it was said, that it had the power of stopping a ship 
under full sail. This disk or sucker is situated on the back of the 
head, and gives to the fish the appearance of being reversed. Indeed, 
it swims with the back downwards. It is v/ithout scales and is of a 
dark lead color. Its size varies from a few inches to a foot or more 
in length. 

There are shark fisheries on the eastern coast of Africa and in 
several parts of the Indian Ocean, for the sake of the fins, which are 
esteemed by the Chinese and some other people, as a delicate article 
of food. The flesh of the shark is dry and of an acid taste; indeed, 
I know of no deep-sea fish that is very good eating. The delight 
which sailors take in torturing and giving pain to the shark is sur- 
prising; and I have heard old officers say, they have never had a 
fair view of the fish, because it was always mutilated by the sailors 
the instant after being got on deck. 

As remarkable as the fact may«appear at first sight, there is no 
class of people v/ho eat so few fish as sailors. And the reason is, 
they seldom obtain them. With the exception of flying-fish and dol- 
phin, and perhaps a very few others, fish are not found on the high seas 
at great distances from land. They abound most along coasts, in 
straits, and bays, and are seldom caught in water more than forty or 
fifty fathoms in depth. To a certain extent this is true even of whales. 
Indeed, it is questionable whether fish inhabiting the profound 
depths of the ocean, if there be any such, ever approach the surface, 
for their organization must be in relation to the great pressure 
under which they necessarily live, and they would probably ex- 
perience a similar inconvenience to that felt by persons who ascend 
very high mountains. Fish do not resort to the high seas, because 
they there meet with nothing, or at best very little upon which to 
subsist; the ocean being perfectly transparent and almost entirely 
free from vegetable substances and animalculae of appreciable size; 
whenever these appear, we may be certain that land is not at a very 
great distance. On the contrary, it is in comparatively shallow 
water they are found, in company with the endless tribes of moluscous 



FISH DIET— -COMORO ISLANDS. 25 

animalsj and they are in greatest plenty within the tropics, where 
the climate appears to be most favourable to their production. 
This being true, we might suppose that sailors, on coming to port 
would consume as much fish as those inhabiting the coasts; but, 
having been confined for many days to hard salted meats and hard 
bread, they find fruits and fresh beef much more to their taste than 
any fish, however savory they may be to the palate of the landsman 
or mere coaster. 

Upon this subject, I suspect there is an erroneous opinion, pretty 
widely spread on shore, if we may judge from the following re- 
markable sentences. *' The immediate action of fish," says an 
author of a local work on * Boulogne sur Mer,"^ which has been 
partly translated for ' Leigh Hunt's London Journal,' and copied in 
the first number of ' Waldie's Port Folio,' for August, i835| — 
*' The immediate action of fish on the animal economy is not direct, 
like that manifestly produced by any aliment in which ozmazome 
predominates; neither are the fluids and solids renewed, as by 
gelatine or fibrine; but in a manner much more calm. To this 
property may, in a great measure, be referred the constitution of our 
seamen; it is also to the mild and tranquil digestion of this food, 
that we may attribute the uniformity of their actions and habits.^'' 
With equal propriety might the peculiar characteristics of the Irisli 
be referred to eating potatoes; but Paddy will blunder, feed him as 
you will. 

" Some authors have written that fish produce obstinate cutaneous 
affections, ulcers, adynamic fevers and scurvy. We think that 
there has not been sufficient distinction made here between the salt 
and smoked fish, and fresh. Sharp seasonings may affect the skin 
and the vital fluids; we have often observed these effects; but 
scorbutic diseases and cutaneous affections, in general, are extremely 
rare among our (French) seamen; whence we conclude that fish is a 
wholesome food, proper in all cases not requiring a stimulating diet.'' 

We passed out at the northern end of the Mozambique channel, 
without having seen any part of the island of Madagascar, between 
which and the eastern coast of Africa, the channel is situated. There 
we had a hasty glance at the Comoro Islands, and met with fresher 
breezes, which soon wafted us to Zanzibar. The Comoro Islands 
are four in number. The largest of the group is about ninety miles 
in circumference; its surface is broken into gently swelling hills and 
smiling valleys. It contains about thirty thousand inhabitants, 
originally from the African continent: they speak Arabic and pro- 
4 



26 ISLAND 01 ZANZIBAR. 

fess the Mohammedan religion. They live chiefly on vegetables and 
milk, and are averse to labor. From their idleness they have ac- 
quired a hauglity deportment, which is characterized among the 
higher classes, by allowing the naiis to grow long, which they occa- 
sionally stain of a reddish yellow by way of ornament. 

Previously to possessing Cape Town, and the establishment at St. 
Helena, English ships were in the habit of touching at these islands 
for refreshments, on their voyages to and from India. Here they 
met a kind reception, plenty of excellent fruit, water and provisions, 
and a salubrious climate. At first, these articles were paid for in 
cowries [Cyprea moneta) glass beads and other triflesj but after- 
wards, for their beeveSj goats and fowls, the islanders demanded 
money.'^ 

At meridian, on the first of September, contrary to our anticipa- 
tions, we found ourselves a few miles to the eastward, and in the lati- 
tude of the southern extremity of Zanzibar. We had been carried 
to the northward by a current, fifty miles in about fifteen hoursj so 
that, in order to reach the port, which is on the western side, we 
were obliged to double the north end of the island. Falling to lee- 
ward, during the south-west monsoon is not unusual^ the same acci- 
dent befell the Enterprise a few days afterwards. 

Zanzibar is an island situated about twenty-three miles from the 
African coast* It is forty-five miles long, with an average breadth of 
ten or twelve. As we coasted it along, we observed the eastern side 
to be skirted by coral, about a half mile from the shore, and though 
the sea rolled and broke over the reef thus formed, in a sheet of 
sparkling white foam for miles, within it was a strip of tranquil 
water. The island is low, gently undulated, beautifully verdant, 
crowned by trees of various kinds, and fringed wdth groves of cocoa- 
nuts. After gazing on the blue skies and blue seas for fifty days, 
such a sight carries with it an exhilarating and delightful influence, 
which one must experience to understand. 

Late in the afternoon, we anchored about a mile from Tumbat, a 
small uninhabited island at the north-western end of Zanzibar. The 
next morning, at half past eight o'clock, we left our anchorage and 
spent the whole day beating along the island towards the town. We 
had a fine breeze, and the waters were as smooth as those of a river^ 
but the haze of the atmosphere was too great to allow us a sight of 

♦ Historia Politica de los Establecimientos Ultramarinos de las Naciones Eu» 
ropeas. Tom. II. Madrid, 1785, 



Owen's charts-— pilot anchorage. 9J7 

tlie African shore. The thermometer ranged from 75° F. to 80° F. 
and about noon there were several smart showers. We passed 
several coral reefs, and our keel scraped over two, neither of which is 
marked in the recent survey of Captain Owen, R. N. In relation to 
some particulars of the southern passage, I have heard the accuracy 
of his charts questioned^ but in general, they are correct, and better 
than any heretofore published. 

About four P. M. we were boarded by an Arab pilot in a crazy 
canoe, paddled by a negro slave, entirely naked, except a string 
about the waist. The Arab was rather more decently attired, wear- 
ing, in addition to the waistband, a large turban. He climbed the 
ship's side very agilely, and touching his breast with a finger, ex- 
claimed, "Me pilot," and delivered from a corner of his turban a 
paper box, which, though labelled *'^ Lucifer Matches," contained 
several testimonials from English and American ship masters, stating 
that " Hassan ben Sied v/as a safe pilot both in and out of the port." 
Without pausing to replace his turban he stalked aft, and squatted 
upon the tatFerel, in the attitude of a frog, where he remained chew- 
ing tobacco, and by gestures directing the course of the ship. From 
him we understood the Sultan was in Muscat, and the onlv foreign 
vessel in port was an English schooner. 

When Mr. Roberts took leave of the Sultan, in 1833, he expected 
to be at Zanzibar on the return of the ship to these seasj but a 
much longer time having elapsed than had been anticipated, the royal 
visit was over, and his Highness had gone to Muscat in the strength 
of the Monsoon, leaving us no choice but to follow him. 

At sunset we anchored off the Sultan's palace at Metony, or Mtony, 
three miles from the town of Zanzibar. From our anchorage we 
saw two Arabian frigates and the masts of several vessels, called 
'* ddus." A boat boarded us in the evening from one of the frigates 
to make the usual inquiries^ the rowers, ten in number, both ap- 
proaching the ship and going away, kept chorus to a song chanted by 
the steersman. 



28 CAPTAIN HASSAN— HIS COSTUME. 



CHAPTER III. 



SKETCHES IN ZANZIBAR. 

September^ 1835. 

Early on the morning after our arrival, Captain Hassan bin Ibra- 
him, of the Arab Navy, visited the ship and was soon followed by a 
boat load of fruit, fowls, and three great fat caponized goats, one of 
which weighed ISO lbs. which were presented in the name of '* His 
Highness." Captain Hassan, besides acting the part of superintend- 
ent of the young Prince Seid Carlid, is considered as the agent for 
foreign commerce, which office was given him by the Sultan in 1832, 
and since that period he has transacted most of the American busi- 
ness at Zanzibar. In the afternoon he came again 5 indeed, during 
our stay he visited us daily once or twice, caring for all our wants 
and bestowing on us every mark of hospitable attention. 

Captain Hassan is a native of Muscat and is perhaps forty five 
years of age. He was educated at Bombay and Calcutta, where he 
studied mathematics, the art of navigation and English, which he 
speaks like a gentleman and with but little accent. He has since made 
several voyages to Canton, Mauritius, the Persian gulf and the coast 
of Africa. The expression of his countenance is mild, thoughtful 
and benevolent^ his manners are easy, and, like his costume, emi- 
nently graceful. His conversation is characterized by promptness 
and intelligence. 

His turban, which he told us is like those worn by all in the ser- 
vice of "His Highness,*' was of cotton of a fine blue check, bor- 
dered and fringed with red. It consists of several twisted turns 
round the head, and the ends were left hanging, of unequal lengths, 
behind one shoulder. His upper garment was of a light sort of 
cloth, without collar or cape, perfectly plain, with wide, straight 
slashed sleeves; on each side of the breast, instead of buttons, hung 
long silk loops, by which to secure it over the chest. The color of 



DYE FOR THE HAIR, 29 

the *^ juma," as this coat is termed, usually worn by Captain Hassan, 
was dark green. It falls a little below the knees^ and beneath it is 
worn a wrapper of pink silk, the sleeves of which are slashed and 
turned up with yellow sating and when the arm was raised the white 
linen might be perceived. The wrapper was sometimes of white 
cotton, and sometimes of fancy colored silk; but of whatever ma- 
terial, it was always secured about the waist by a girdle of cloth of 
silver, twisted round the body, in the folds of which he carried a 
handkerchief and steel snuff box of Russian manufacture. Over 
this girdle is worn the sword belt, and the " khunger " or *' jambea " a 
highly ornamented sort of dagger. From half way below the knee, his 
legs were bare and his feet were protected only by sandals, which are 
thick soles of undyed leather, fashioned after the general outline of 
the foot, and secured by a broad strap over the instep, and another 
narrow one, passing from its middle, betwixt the great toe and the 
one next to it, to be secured to the sole. These straps are orna- 
mented v/ith various colored knots and stitching; and the toe nails, 
as well as those of the fingers are stained with " hena" (henna) of 
a reddish yellow color. Such sandals are adapted to the faith of 
the wearers, for they may shuffle them on and off without inconve- 
nience, whenever devotion calls them to the mosque. Indeed, 
sandals and Islamism agree well togetheri the inconvenience of 
putting on and off christian shoes and boots would be sufficient to 
make even a Mussulman forego his prayers. Sandals force upon the 
wearers a shufSing, sliding-forward sort of gait, which is far from 
graceful. Such is the costume of an Arab gentleman in the present 
day, and it was probably very much the same in the earliest times of 
which we have any record. 

The complexion of the Arab is somewhere between that of a North 
American Indian and the mulatto. The beard and mustache of the 
individual just mentioned were long, silky, black, and carefully- 
trimmed. One day, speaking of the practice of dying the hair yel- 
low, common among the inhabitants of Socotra, Captain Hassan told 
us that he himself was in the habit of dying his own beard black 
every two weeks, with an infusion of indigo leaves. They are care- 
fully dried, finely powdered, and kept from the air in well stopped 
bottles. When used, a small quantity is infused in boiling water, 
and applied after becoming cold, and the hair kept from drying; at 
the end of two or three hours, being washed off with pure water, the 
hair or beard is found to be of a fine black color. The experiment 



30 - NEGRO ORNAMENTS. 

was tried on board bj several individuals with some of the powders 
furnished by Captain Hassan, but without success. 

Soon after breakfast I went on shore at Metony, the watering 

place, accompanied by Lieutenant G , and found every thing new 

and interesting. The tropical vegetation, the wide-spreading mango 
trees, and lofty cocoanut groves, gently moved by the breeze, and 
animated by numerous birds singing and hovering round their nests, 
perched among the branches, afforded delight to us who had been so 
long confined in our sea-girt home. Our men, in white frocks and 
trousers, were rolling red casks to and from the watering place, and 
offered a strange contrast to the negroes, armed with light spears six 
feet long and bearing burdens upon their heads; their only garment 
being a piece of white or checked cotton cloth, tied above the hips 
and descending in folds nearly to the knee. The negresses wear over 
their pendulous breasts, a similar cloth wrapped round the body, 
which reaches from the armpit to the ankle. We met several who 
had young infants suspended on their backs. The ornaments worn 
by these females are various; some have the rim of the ear pierced 
by a half dozen holes, into which are inserted buttons of wood, small 
sticks, or silver studs; some have the lobe or pendulous part of the 
ear slit and distended with a piece of round wood, an inch or more 
in diameter; some have large silver rings through the middle of the 
ear; some wear rose-formed silver buttons the size of a dime through 
the ala of the nose, just where it joins the upper lip, which at first 
sight may be mistaken for an ulcer; others wear thick silver rings 
upon the wrists and thumbs, and others, large bangles upon the an- 
kles. In some cases all these ornaments are combined; and when 
not of silver, they are made of tin or some similar metal. They all 
appeared to be very cheerful; and they are certainly a most intelli- 
gent-looking race of negroes. After we had been wandering through 
the cocoanut groves a short time, a negro brought us cocoanuts, trimmed 
of the outside husk, and one end opened, and, signifying that we 
should drink, cried *' gaima, gaima — good, good." — Each nut afforded 
a pint of slightly whitish fluid, which every one acknowledges who 
drinks cocoanut milk fresh from the tree, to be of a pleasant flavor. 

We met two Arabs whose costume, to us, possessed a very pictu- 
rescjue appearance, particularly when viewed in connexion with the 
scenery around us. One was a smooth-faced youth, straight as an 
arrow, in a skull cap, a girdle and a pair of pure white breeches 
made very full, and looped up on the hips, exposing well proportioned 
limbs, which promised strength and agility. In other respects he was 



ARAB COSTUME — «ARMS. 31 

entirely naked. His companion, whose long black beard, mustacheSp 
and square shoulders showed him to be a full-grown man, walked a 
short distance ahead. The costume of this individual consisted of 
white breeches, large white turban, a frock buttoned straiglit upon 
the chest to the throat, girded above the loins, and hanging half way 
to the knee, and looped up on one side. He carried a Chinese 
umbrella, folded, in his hand. The sandals of both were similar to 
those akeady described. They saluted us as they passed by, grace- 
fully raising the hand to the headj they v/ere of the better order, and 
as they disappeared in the shady grove, recalled to mind Mad. Ce- 
leste in the character of the " Wild Arab." , 

While standing under some lofty cocoanut trees with our guns, 
two x\rabs came up| both dressed in white. One was a fine-looking man 
with a sparse beard and mustaches, wearing a large turban and a 
loose gown, buttoned to the throat. A long curved sabre, in a lea- 
thern scabbard, hung close under the left arm by a strap over the same 
shoulder, which was retained in its position by another buckled round 
the chest. A leathern belt over the girdle sustained in front a broad 
'khunger' with a hilt of rhinoceros horn; two gourd-shaped powder 
pouches of leather, one containing coarse powder for loading, and 
the other fine for priming; a small box, containing flint, steel and cot- 
ton spunk; two small reed chargers, and a chunani box. He carried, 
in his right hand, a long-barrelled matchlock, whose invention is 
dated many a day ago. His companion was similarly attired, but 
wore, instead of a turban, a greasy skull cap. His arms were a 
*khunger,' a long, straight, two-handed sword; and a round shield 
of rhinoceros hide, a foot and a half in diameter, which iuino: at his 
back, from the left shoulder. 

Both parties were equally curious in the examination of the arms 
of each other. Their sabres were fine blades, with edges keen as ra- 
zors; the matchlock, though it had seen its best days, was to me en- 
tirely new. The barrel was very long, and the inlaying of gold and 
silver ornament was still visible; it was secured to a shattered stock 
by numerous brass bands; the touch hole was large, and beneath it 
was a large uncovered pan to hold the priming. A curved piece of 
iron, two inches long, slit at the end, played in a mortise, cut diago- 
nally through the stalk; this contrivance which is under the control 
of a trigger near the breech, serves to ffuide the match to the priming: 
the match, about the size of a whip-cord, is wrapped in numerous 
turns round the stalk. ,. 

We compared our powder, and the fineness of ours surprised them. 



32 THE MATCHLOCK. 

We showed them the accuracy of our double-barrelled fowlino- pieces, 
and proposed by signs that the Arab should charge the matchlock 
with our ammunition, to which he readily assented. He first tore oft* 
a strip of a rag which hung from the strap of his gun, passed it through 
an eye in one end of the ramrod and wiped out the barrel. He next 
stopped the touch-hole with a piece of paper and introduced the load. 
He then struck fire and inflamed the match, which he introduced be- 
neath a sort of batton on the breech, where it remained until the pa- 
per was withdrawn from the touchhole and the priming put into the 
pan, which he moistened with his tongue, to prevent the powder from 
falling out. The match was now placed in the iron slit mentioned 
above, and the piece was in a state for immediate use. Let any one 
compare the matchlock with a modern percussion gun, and the pro- 
cess of loading, and he must be struclc with the progress of improve- 
ment, and comprehend how comparatively inefiicient fire-arms must 
have been, when first brought into use. 

The Arab stepped forward, and deliberately aiming at a little bird, 
perched on the top of a high cocoanut, pulled trigger and brought it 
to the ground; but the pleasure he would have derived from this dis- 
play of skill was dashed by an accident which in his eye seemed to 
be without remedy. On taking down the matchlock, he looked at it 
in sorrow, for the instrument was incapable of resisting the force of 
Dupont's best sporting powder; the bushing was entirely destroyed, 
and the pan was blown oft" from the barrel. Both Arabs searched the 
grass for the lost pan but without success. The marksman conveyed 
to us, by signs, an idea of the great loss he had sustained and showed 
us his gun was now useless. We told him, as well as gestures could 
convey our meaning, that we would carry it on board, and in two 
days bring it to him again, completely repaired. When he compre- 
hended us, his countenance lighted up with joy, and, seizing our 
hands, kissed them in token of gratitude. He resigned to us the 
matchlock, which, at the end of two days. Lieutenant G re- 
turned very much improved. Our armorer had bushed it, made a 
new pan, and polished the brass bands; and the Arab was so much 

pleased, he kissed the hand of Lieutenant G again and again; 

indeed, his "shooting-iron" as a sailor termed it, was in a better 
condition than before the accident. 

The Sultan's palace at this place, Metoney, is composed of two 
square buildings, the walls of which are of coral rock, and pierced 
by square windows. They are two stories high, have flat roofs and 
stand very close together; in fact, they are united by a sort of round 



THE PALAOE—- WATERING HUMAN BONES. 33 

balcony or tower, which rests upon wooden pillars and is crowned by 
a peaked roof, the eaves of which are only a few feet above its floor. 
It is resorted to in hot weather to enjoy the breeze, and at appointed 
times, as some part of it faces towards Mecca, for the purpose of 
prayer. In front, is planted a Hag staff, where floats the blood red 
flag of the Sultan from sunrise until sunset. In the rear of the 
building are several offices and a small cemetery. A few Jowly ho- 
vels, thatched with leaves and tenanted by slaves, are the only dwel- 
lings in sight. The whole are shaded by mango and cocoanut trees, 
presenting a most agreeable scene. 

The palace is now occupied by the young prince, Seid CarliDj 
who is governor of the island, though no more than sixteen years old. 
On the fourth of September, he received Commodore Kennedy, Cap- 
tain Stribling and Mr, Roberts, who speak in terms of praise of his 
courteous manners and princely bearing. 

Watering is a slow and difficult -task at present, but in future the 
difficulties will be removed, in a great measure, by the construction 
of an aqueduct, near the palace, and which is now nearly finished. 
"When the tide is out, which rises nine feet, the stream is too shallow 
to float a cutter, and this is the time when the casks should be filled 
to secure the water fresh; therefore, it is necessary to wait the ebbing 
and flowing of the tide, to get in and out v/ith a boat, or roll the casks 
over the sand. The men are exposed to the heat of the sun, and are 
apt to be seduced into eating too freely of cocoanuts and fruits, and 
to drink an intoxicating liquor obtained by fermenting the sap of the 
cocoanut tree, which is almost always followed by cliolera or fever.* 

One day, on shore, we met a half dozen negroes, moving gaily along 
the beach to the sound of a rude sort of drum, composed of a hollow 
cylender of wood, about a foot in diameter and fifteen inches longj, 
having a dried serpent's skin stretched over one end of it. The open 
end was held against the breast, while the other was beaten with the 
palms. After he had played, and danced in a rude and lascivious 
manner, we gave the musician some bright pins, which were to him ob- 
jects of great curiosity. 

Wandering near the beach, to the northward of Metony, we found 
numbers of human bones, and even entire skeletons, exposed upon 
the surface of the ground. We were told, they belonged to persons 
who ' did not pray' when alive. On the eastern side of the island, 
there is a spot where the dead bodies of slaves are carried and cast 
ypon the sea shore, to become the prey of beasts and carrion birds. 

* Owen's Voyages. 



34 HARBOR — CUSXaM HOUSE SLAVE&,r 



CHAPTER IV. 

SKETCHES IN ZANZIBAR. 

September, 1835. 

The harbor of Zanzibar, or, as it was ancientl}^ called, Zenjibar, 
and Zanguebar, is formed by four small islands, consisting of a coral 
basis, covered by a thin soil, which supports a growth of shrubbery. 
These islaiidsare much undermined and sea-worn| and th^ channels 
between them are intricate, from numerous bedsiof coral and sand, 
which are inhabited by several species of molusca. Among those 
most sought after are the harp shell, which is found in the fine sand, 
generally enveloped in folds of the animal by which it is formed. It 
is this circumstance which preserves the beautiful polish of the shelf, 
preventing other inhabitants of the deep from fixing their equally 
curious, but less sightly structures upon it. The same is the case 
with most of those shells, which are admired for the highness of their 
polish and the brilliance of their colors. 

About ten oxlock one morning, we landed on the beach in front 
of the custom house, where a number of Arabs and negroes, from 
motives of curiosity, had assembled to meet us. The immundicities 
of the vicinity declared most palpably the filthy habits of the people. 
The custom house is a low shed, or rude lock-up place, for the 
storing of goods; and connected with it, is a wooden cage in which 
slaves are confined, from the time of their arrival from the coast of 
Africa until they are sold. A sale of the poor wretches takes place 
every day at sunset, in the public square, where they are knocked 
off to the highest bidder. Tlie cage is about twenty feet square, and 
at one time during our short visit, there were no less than one hun- 
dred and fifty slaves, men, women and children locked up in it. The 
number imported yearly, is estimated at from six to seven thousand. 
There is an import duty levied upon them, of from a half dollar to 
four dollars a head, depending upon the port in Africa from which 
they are brought. Some individuals on the island own as many as 
two thousand, valued at from three to ten dollars each. They work 



BANYANS-: 35 

for their masters five days in the week 5 the other two are devoted 
to the cultivation of a portion of ground, allotted to them for their 
own maintenance. Thej cultivate chiefly cassada, a fusiform root 
known in Peru as yuca, which, with fish, forms their entire food. 

Under the shed of the custom house were several fine-looking 
men, tall and straight, and of a lighter complexion and smoother 
skin than the Arabs. Their costume is highly picturesque. The 
head is shaved back to the crown, and the hair is permitted to 
grow long behind, but the tress is folded on top of the head and con- 
cealed beneath a red or white turban, made high, somewhat in the 
shape of a bishop's mitrej it is laid in fine transverse plaits, instead 
of beino; twisted like that of the Arab, and in the centre of the lower 
edge is a small knot, the form of which distinguishes the sect to which 
the wearer may belong. The dress consists of a white robe, which 
sets close about the neck like a coUarless shirt, and is gathered about 
the hips in such W'ise, by the help of a girdle, as to leave the lower part 
of the thigh and leg bare. Behind the limb, it is folded from opposite 
sides, so as to form an acute angle, the point being uppermost. The 
sleeves are straight and large. The i<iQ.i are protected by sharp-toed 
slippers, the points of which turn upover thetopof thefuot. Such is the 
attire of the Banyans, a race of people who are, among Mussulmans, 
what the Jews are among Christians, a thriving, money-making class. 
They are despisedby the Arabs, and are obliged to submit to insult 
and indignity, without being able iii retort, or avenge themselves, 
even if their religion permitted, which iiihibits them, the shedding of 
blood| their diet consisting of milk, ghee or butter, and vegetables. 
Captain Hassan informed me, he had never heard of a murder com- 
mitted by any of them, though he had known of frquent instances of 
their. being slain by the Arabs. 

The features of tiie Banyan are regular, and the expression of the 
countenance is placid and benevolent^ their figures are straight and 
well-proportioned. They are the principal store-keepers on the 
island; there is estimated to be about three hundred and fifty of 
them at Zanzibar. They occupy small shops, or holes, raised a foot 
or two above the street, in which they may be seen, sitting on the 
floor with their knees drawn up, noting their accounts. Their knees 
serve them for a desk whereon to rest •their paper; and a pointed 
reed and a thick black fluid, for pen and paper. They leave their 
families in India, and are absant fs imi them for four or five years to- 
gether, at the expiration of which they return for a year or more. 

When Vasco de Gama and his follow^ers first doubled the Cape of 



B6 BANYANS, 

Good Hope, the greater part of the commercial wealth of India was 
in the hands of the Banyans. They were celebrated for their frank- 
ness. A very short time suiSced them to transact the most import- 
ant business. They usually dealt in bazaars; the vender told the 
price of his goods in a subdued voice and in few words; the pur- 
chaser replied by taking his hand, and by a certain manner of 
doubling and extending the fingers, explained what abatement he 
wished in the price. The bargain was often concluded without 
speaking a word; and, to ratify it, the hand was again taken in token 
of its inviolability. If any difficulty occurred, which was rare, they 
preserved a decorum and politeness towards each other, which one 
would not readily imagine. Their sons were present at all contracts, 
and they v/ere taught, from their earliest years, this peaceful mode of 
conducting business; scarcely had reason dawned upon them, before 
they were initiated into the mysteries of commerce, so that in some 
cases, they were capable of succeeding their fathers, at the early age 
often years. 

The Banyans held some Abyssinian slaves, whom they treated with 
singular humanity; they educated them as their own children or re- 
lations; instructed them in business; advanced them funds; and not 
only allowed them to enjoy the gains, but also permitted them to dis- 
pose thereof to their descendants. 

Their expenses were not in a ratio to their wealth; compelled, by 
the principles of their religion, to abstain from viands and strong 
liquors, they lived on vegetables and fruit solely. They never de- 
parted from their economy, except when they established their sons; 
on which occasions, large sums were spent in feasting, music, dancing 
and fireworks; and they boasted of the expensiveness of their wed- 
dings. The Banyan women had the same simple customs. All 
their glory w^as to please their husbands; they were taught, from their 
earliest years, to admire conjugal respect and love, and with them, 
this was a sacred point in religion. Their reserve and austerity 
towards strangers, with whom they never entered into conversation, 
was in accordance with such principles; and they heard in astonish- 
ment of the fiimiliarity that existed between the sexes in Europe.* 

Such were the Banyans three centuries gone by, and we have 
reason to think, they have not been entirely clianged. 

Near the custom house, we met Captain Hassan, who conducted 
us to his house, and, on the way, pointed out a large building, now 

*EstablecimienlosUltraiTiannos. Tom. III. Madrid 1786. 



CAPTAIN Hassan's house. ^7 

erecting by the Sultan as a palace Tor himself. The v/alls are of 
coral rock, cemented by lime, obfained by burning the same sub- 
stance. We passed an old fort, built by the Portuguese, and several 
guns of different calibre, but all so time worn as to be useless. 

The entrance to Captain Hassan's dwelling was through a door 
which opened from the street into a small, dirty yard in which v/ere se- 
veral jackasses, two or three dogs and half a dozen lounging slaves. A 
dark, rough stone stair-way conducted us to an open court in the 
second story, which was forty feet long by twenty wide. The floor 
was of hard plaster or '^chunam." Atone end of the court w^ere 
some neglected flowers, growing in pots| tvv^o small rooms, occupied 
by servants opened on one side, and on tlie other was a paved cor- 
ridor, furnished with Windsor chairs and a table, above which 
hung a " punka,'' or large fan of cotton cloth, stretched over an ob- 
long frame of wood. Besides these articles, there was a bureau at one 
end with a clock upon it, whose features at once declared its place of 
origin to be New England. A cage full of small doves, and a glass 
lamp shade were suspended from the ceiling, and i\\^ wall was orna- 
mented by several English prints of rural subjects. Two small 
apartments for all purposes, opened upon the corridor, from which, 
after we were seated, brandy, w^ater, wine and glasses were brought 
out and placed upon the table. We were invited to drink, and were 
offered cigars by a Mr. Ross who has lately established himself at 
the Captain's as physician to the young prince. 

After chattin;^ a half hour, we took leave, and wandered through 
the narrow, dirty, streets, which wind across each other much after 
the fashion of the threads in a tangled skein. We soon found our- 
selves subjects of curious observation, and presently we were fol- 
lowed by a half dozen Arabs, who manifested a kindly disposition 
to gratify our curiosity, in respect to the things around us. Mehara- 
met Hammis, a boy of fourteen, of very dark complexion, thoup-h de- 
scended of Arab parents, and a young man named Abdallah, at- 
tached themselves to our suite. Both of our new friends spoke Sno*- 
lish very well,* the former had been instructed by his father, a man 
of pretty extensive business, but now absent, and the latter had been 
on board of one of the vessels, under the command of Captain Owen 
when surveying the coast. Abdallah v/as marked by the small pox, 
and the expression of his countenance was that of active cunnino-, 
while young Hammis's possessed a look of open shrewdness. Both 
wore checked turbans and white gowns; and Abdallah carried a 
long two-eged sword under the left arm. 



38 STREETS ARMORERS. 

Though the number of persons we met was not great, they filled 
the narrow lanes through which we were passing. Negroes armed 
-with spears, Arabs bearing swords, dirks and round shields of rhi- 
noceros* hide, and unarmed Banyans, under high, red turbans, met 
lis at every step, passing in one direction or another. Many Arabs 
of the lower class, except a girdle and a cloth hanging from the hips, 
were naked; but few were without arms. I have never before seen 
a finer display of straight figures and athletic limbs, nor more cheer- 
ful countenances, than those presented in the streets of Zanzibar. 
The color of the Arabs here, is almost as deep as that of the ne- 
groes, but these are not so jetty as those from the western coast of 
Africa. 

Upon several of the doors were pasted, slips of paper upon which 
were written in Arabic, sentences from the Koran. The people 
were all actively employed. Before some of the houses, on raised 
terraces or porches of mud, men were weaving cloth for turbans by 
hand; others were making, of gum copal, colored red, various orna- 
ments w^orn in the ears, and beads for the " tesbia," or Islamic ro- 
sary, which consists of ninety nine black and three red beads, and 
except the cross is like the rosary used in the Romish church. At 
one door sat a woman, cross-legged, stringing beads for sale; she 
was remarkable for the large white metal bangles on the ankles, 
large bracelets, and a succession of small silver rings in the rim of 
the ear, as well as for the under eylids being stained black. At the 
corners of the streets were armourers at work, whose appearance 
carried the mind back to the early ages. There were generally two 
men together. Both squatted upon a terrace of mud, a half dozen 
feet square, sh.aded by a rude shed of cocoanut leaves. A hole in 
the centre served as a furnace, to which a continuous blast of air 
was directed by very primitive means. Two goat-skin bags, having 
at one end, an opening or slit, like a purse-clasp, each lip of which 
encldses a rod, while the other communicates with tlie fire by a tube, 
form the bellows. The blower, squatting near, holds a bag in either 
hand by its mouth, alternately filling and blowing them out. As he 
draws back one arm, he relaxes the grasp of his hand, permitting 
the mouth of the bag to open and fill with air; next, he closes and 
presses it towards the fire by straightening the arm; while, at the 
same time, the other one is drawn back, the grasp relaxed as at first, 

•Mr. Bakcwell, in the tliird American edition of his geology, p. 206, would 
Jead us to believe that the rhinoceros belongs to the extinct species of animals. 



CHILDREN WELLS^ CEMETERIES OIL MILL. 39 

and so on, by turns, in rather quick succession. The smiths were 
chiefly occupied in making arrow and spear heads. 

Amono" the strange things which attracted our notice, were the 
young children, carried in the arms or on the backs of their nurses. 
Their faces were marked with black lines; two over tlie forehead 
and one over the nose, which were crossed vertically by three others, 
and in the squares, thus formed, were black spots, giving them the 
appearance of young Harlequins. With few exceptions, every one 
we saw was the subject of umbilical hernia. 

Wells are numerous through the town; they are all square, and 
few of them are more than fifteen feet deep. They have no barrier 
around them, and their walls are not carried above the surface of the 
ground; their vicinity is disgustingly filthy, and the water itself is 
thick as that in a puddle, which may be attributed to the want of 
rain for the past seven months. Children w^ere seen slowly filling 
earthen jars, by the aid of cocoanut shells, having holes in their sides 
and cords attached, and bearing them away upon their heads. 

Places of interment are frequent, and are not enclosed. The 
tombs are simply low walls, four or five feet long, fancifully ter- 
minated above, plastered with lime, and without inscriptions. Some 
of them are ornamented with pieces of porcelain thrust into the plaster. 
Mehammet informed us that the bodies of Moslems are buried with- 
out coffins, but those of ' Christians were put into boxes.' 

Our new friends conducted us to a mill for the manufacture of oiL 
The mill or press consists of a wooden mortar, with a conical cavity, 
about four feet deep, and not less than three feet i\\ diameter at the 
top, which was encircled by a broad flat rim. Around the walls of 
this mortar, and closely pressing them, rolled a pestle, six inches in 
diameter; one end was secured at the bottom of the mortar, and the 
other to a heavy beam of wood, to one end of which a camel was 
harnessed, on the other was suspended a weight. There v/e re two 
of these mills under the same shed, and four camels. In one they 
were pressing the oil from the cocoanut; and in the oiher, from a 
small flat seed, called ' sesim.' The sesim oil is used for lamps, but is 
very inferior to that of the pulp of the cocoanut, which burns with a clear 
bright flame, when the atmospheric temperature is above 70° F. bi?t 
below that degree, it becomes solid. It is an article of export to 
England; and is the only oil used in a great part of the East. The 
camels, when at work, are blindfolded, to prevent them from at- 
tempting to thrust their heads into the mill, which they are apt to do 
for the sake of the oil-cakes, which are given to them freely. 



40 COMPARISON OF ARMS- — HAMIRA. 

From the oil press, Abdullah carried us to his dwelling, and, 
spreading mats upon a raised terrace of earth in his hovel, invited us 
to be seated. While he was absent in search of harp shells, which are 
caught and sold, in great numbers, by the natives to foreigners, 
several Arabs collected about us, and there was a mutuul examina- 
tion of sword blades. Those worn by us bore no comparison as re- 
spects excellence of temper to those of the Arabs, and they were not 
backward in pointing out the difference. Holding the sword verti- 
cally in the hand, they suddenly flexed the wrist, and in this way 
caused the blades to vibrate from hilt to point for several seconds^ 
but when ours were subjected to the same experiment, they remained 
almost motionless, like bars of lead: — indeed, they are more for 
show than use; for every officer, in case of necessity, supplies himself 
from the ship's armament, with weapons that will bear service. Our 
whole dress was closely examined by these people, but nothing ex- 
cited so much wonder in them, as our gloves, which they were 
anxious to purchase. 

We next visited an Arab merchant, named Hamira, who speaks 
English intelligibly, and transacts a good deal of English and Ame- 
rican business. W~e entered a small yard, on one side of which was 
a shed, filled with piles of teak wood, and ascended a flight of rough 
stone steps to the second story; and, passing through a door-way, 
closed by a curtain of green baize, found ourselves in an open court 
about twenty-five feet square. The left side of the court was occu- 
pied by two apartments, used as kitchen and servants' room; and that 
in front of the entrance, |jy other rooms, tenanted by the family. 
That in which we were received, was about ten feet broad, and per- 
haps, twenty-five or thirty long; but its whole extent was not visible, 
because one end was screened by a curtain hanging from the ceiling. 
The walls were hung with sabres, daggers, sliawls, turbans, &c., and 
the furniture, placed without any regard to order, consisted of three 
large chests, a table, Chinese chairs and a writing desk. This room 
communicated with an inner apartment, which we soon discovered 
was sacred to the females; for curiosity, not less probably in the 
Arabian than in ladies of other countries, induced them to peep at us 
from behind the door, which was ajar. 

We found Hamira with his two sons and several friends squatted 
round their noon-day meal, which was spread upon the floor. On the 
outer threshold reposed the sandals of Hamira's guests; for in place 
of showing respect, by uncovering the head, as is the custom among 
Christians, the Arabians do it by baring the feet. Those before us 



THE KHUNGER- — ■POLYGAMY— FOLDING OF LETTERS. 41 

were attired in skull caps, loose vvlute gowns, and girdles in which 
thej wore a ' jambea ' or * khunger,' This formidable weapon, with- 
out which an Arab is seldom seen, is about two and a halt inches 
broad at the hilt, which is of Rhinoceros or buffalo horn, ornamented 
with silver or gold, and gradually tapers to a point. The blade is 
two-edged, and at a point beyond the middle forms an angle of about 
one hundred and twenty degrees. The sheath, generally made of 
scarlet, and sometimes of dark-colored cloth, is ornamented, like 
the hilt, with silver or gold. The ' khunger ' is worn in front of the 
waist, sustained by a strap, which is often richly embroidered. 

As we entered, Hamira rose and welcomed us to his house, and, 
placing chairs for nSj immediately ordered cocoanuts to be brought. 
He and his friends at once opened one or two for each of our party, 
and we found them very refreshing after our stroll in the sun. The 
dinner was cleared avv^ay by the servants, and Hamira talked with us 
upon various subjects. Speaking of his countrymen, he said, at the 
same time, shaking his head, "Ah! Arab man plenty bad, plenty bad; 
him cheat you all times, he can." 

" The law allows every Arab four wives, pray, H3,mira, how many 
have you.^" asked one of our party. 

*' Me no got wife novv^- — she die. Now me got one concubine. That 
very bad, have more than one woman,* one wife or one concubine. 
Suppose you havemore, they always fight; suppose live in same house, 
they fight; suppose live in different house, they fight, and the man 
can no be happy. The woman nqvj bad for that.'' Captain Hassan, 
on the occasion of our speaking upon this subject, expressed the same 
opinion, and said very few Arabs had more wives than one. 

Hamira opened one of his chests, and exhibited sundry boxes of 
old watches and trinkets; Cashmere shawls, and a small tin kettle, 
filled with vials and papers of medicine. He showed us also a copy 
of the Bible and New Testament, in quarto, in Arabic, which, he told 
us, he had read, saying, ** Him very good book, but me like Koran 
better," 

Afterwards he offered us quantities of luscious mangoes, and some 
oranges: the latter, however, were sour. While eating the fruit, (our 
only dinner that day,) Hamira received a letter, which, on account of 
its form, attracted our attention. It was folded up across the whole 
sheet, so as to be about an inch wide, and then doubled in the mid- 
dle, the two ends being bound together by a riband of paper, and 
sealed with paste. When we sailed for Muscat, the letters sent by 
us were folded in the same manner, or rolled up as hard as possible, 
6 



42 SCHOOL — KORAN — COURT OF JUSTICE. 

and the edge pasted, the latter form i§ in use, almost exclusively, 
among the Banyans, 

On descending to the yard, we entered a small room at one end of 
it, in which a half dozen children were seated on the floor, a la 
Turqiie, reciting lessons, at the top of their voices, in a most unplea- 
santly nasal and monotonous manner, to an old white-bearded peda^ 
gogue, who sat upon the ground hugging his knees. Eacli pupil was 
supplied with a board, eight inches broad, and a foot and a half long, 
on which they were learning to write by the aid of a pointed stick. 
The only books to be seen were two large copies of the Koran, bound 
in red velvet, and supported on stands two feet high, so that when 
they read it, the sacred volume is higher than the girdle, seated as 
they were. The children were committing verses of it to memory, 
and after the recitation was over, the book was carefully wrapped in 
a cloth and carried up stairs. The pedagogue would not allow us to 
touch it. The Koran is held in the greatest reverence and esteem 
among all Mohammedans. ** They dare not so much as touch it with- 
out being first washed or legally purified^ which, lest they should do 
by inadvertence, they write these words on the cover or label, ' Let 
none touch it, but they who are clean.' They read it with great care 
and respect, never holding it below their girdles. They swear by it, 
consult it in their weighty occasions, carry it with them to war, write 
sentences of it on their banners, adorn it with gold and precious 
stones, and knowingly suifer it not to be in the possession of any of a 
different persuasion.*'* 

After reaching the street, we stood talking v/ith Hamira for seve- 
ral minutes, and he appeared to be somev/hat impatient of our delay. 
Chairs were presently brought out, and he said, " Suppose you sit down 
one little, while me go pray — me come back very quick." He was 
equal to his word: his absence did not exceed five minutes. 

Towards sunset we walked to the place of embarkation. Near the 
jcUd castle a number of persons were collected, waiting for the open- 
ing of the court of Justice: its sessions are held, every afternoon after 
prayer time, at the castle gate, in the open air. It is composed of the 
governor and three judges, they are very patriarchal-looking gentle- 
men with long white beards, dirty white gowns and great sabres un- 
der their arms^ and, to judge from appearances, one would conclude, 
they had lived from the time of Moses, without washing their vest- 
;inents or trimming their beards. Two of them were seated upon 

* Sale's Koran, Philadelphia, 1833. 



Coral formation^ 43 

some boards, beneath a shed, amidst a group of people who seemed 
to be interested in their remarks. Under the same shed was a beau- 
tiful-leopard, in a cage, which had been caught only a few days. Such 
is the simplicity of the court! In the street were several groups of 
Banyans unarmed, naked negroes, leaning on tlieir spears, and fierce- 
looking Arabs, resting on their matchlocks, with the left leg crossed 
behind the right one — all waiting, with seeming indifference, like men 
of leisure, the arrival of the governor. Prince Seid Carlid. But we 
could remain no longer, and at sunset returned on board, satisfied that 
the town of Zanzibar and its inhabitants, possess as few attractions 
for a Christian stranger as any place and people in the w^ide world. 



CHAPTER V. 

SKETCHES IN ZANZIBAR, 

September J 1835. 

Like many islands in the Indian ocean, as well as the Pacific, 
Zanzibar owes its origin to the labors of a marine animal of diminu- 
tive size. When we reflect upon the minuteness of the animals 
which form coral, and compare with their tiny bulk, the stupendous 
results of their labors and the hardness of the substance which they 
produce by a secreting process, vv^e are struck with wonder; and, 
vainly inquire,— Whence do these animals derive the material for 
the production of such vast beds of calcareous matter, that they can 
build up, for hundreds of fathoms in the deptlis of the ocean, islands 
capable of sustaining thousands of human inhabitants.^ So vast are 
the quantities of calcareous substance produced by the moluscous 
tribes, that learned men have supposed all the lime found in the 
earth is derived from their organization and its functions, which seem 
to be almost inscrutable. The extent of coral formation, without 
reference to the immense quantities of shells, formed by other mo- 
lusca, wotdd be sufiicientfor such a theory; but it is not our purpos-e 



44 rOSITiON OF ZANZIBAR— PRODUCTS. 

to discuss so interesting a question, and we therefore refer our read- 
ers, for information on tliis subject, to the writings of geologists. 

The labors of the coral insect present us a variety of formations^ 
some of them solid as rock, which is used at Zanzibar, as well as in 
other parts of the world, for architectural purposes; some are found 
resembling trees and plants, and others grow up in the form of fans, 
irregularly reticulated, and elastic in structure. Their colors are as 
various as their forms; but the white, which is also solid, or nearly 
so» most abounds, and is the sort usually found as the basis of coral 
islands. 

The formation of coral islands is interesting. Scarcely does the 
structure of this ant of the sea, outtopthe surface of the ocean, pro- 
bably from some volcanic mass upheaved from the bottom, before it 
becomes covered with soil, which is more or less valuable, according 
to circumstances. Vegetable remains and seeds are first cast by the 
waves upon the growing island, which, in time, decay and form 
earth; in this the seeds take root, and the plants, in their season, 
perish, and their destruction adds to the soil. Thus, every year pro- 
duces new accessions, until, as in the present instance, a rich loam, 
lying deeply on the coral basis, sustains flowers, shrubs, and forest 
trees, and we behold the island clothed in a luxuriant and beautiful 
Yegetation. 

According to Captain Owen's chart, the island of Zanzibar ex- 
tends between five degrees, forty-three minutes, and six degrees, 
twenty-eight minutes of south latitude. The latitude of the town, 
also called Zanzibar by foreigners, but often designated by the inha- 
bitants under the names Hamuz, or Moafile, or Baur, (which names, 
however, pertain rather to sections than to the whole town,) is six 
degrees, ten minutes south, and the longitude thirty-nine degrees 
and ten minutes east from Greenwich. 

Among the vegetable productions of Zanzibar, besides several sorts 
of hard wood, suited for building and cabinet work, we may men- 
tion the cocoanut, mango, jacca, copal, Colombo, tobacco, cloves, 
nutmeg, cassada, banana, &c. &c. 

The cocoanut, which belongs to the extensive family of palms, 
grows in every region within the tropic belt of the globe, and is al- 
ways a prominent feature in tropical scenery. Its trunk, which is 
supported by numerous small fibrous roots, rises gracefully, with a 
slight inclination, from forty to sixty feet in height; it is cylindrical, 
of middling size, and marked, from the root upwards, with unequal 
circles or rings, and is crowned by a graceful head of large leaves. 



COCOANUT TREii — COTAL. 45 

The wood is light and spongy, and therefore cannot be advantage^ 
ouslj employed in the construction of ships or solid edifices, though 
it is -used in building huts; vessels made of it are fragile and of little 
duration; but its fruit, at different seasons, its branches, and its leaves 
are applied to many useful purposes. The sheath, covering the low- 
est or first leaf, is used for a sieve; the leaves are used in thatching, 
for making umbrellas, fans, sails, and even nets, and the very young 
ones may be substituted for paper. The fruit, or cocoanut, has a 
filamentous bark, or covering, two or three inches thick, known in 
commerce as coir, or kyar, is manufactured into coarse fabrics, and 
cordage; and it also serves for caulking, and is exclusively used for 
this purpose throughout the east. The nut contained within this 
bark is about the size of a small melon, and the shell is converted 
into cups and other utensils; the pulp, lining the shell, is a whole- 
some aliment, and yields an excellent oil, used both in cooking and 
for burning, and, lately, means have been discovered in England of 
manufacturing it into candles; the oil-cake becomes the food of ani- 
mals, and, in times of scarcity, of the poor. The centre of this great 
nut is filled with a clear, somewhat sweet, and cooling fluid, which 
is equally refreshing to the laborer and traveller. When the nut 
becomes old, or attains its full maturity, the fluid disappears, and the 
hollow is filled by a sort of almond, which is the germinating organ; 
sometimes a calculous concretion is found in its centre, to which pe- 
culiar virtues have been attributed. But these are not all the uses 
of the cocoanut. By cutting oif the stems of the bud, before the 
flowers blow, a white liquor exudes from the cut extremity, which 
is usually received in a vessel tied there for the purpose; it is called 
" toddy," and is a very common and much esteemed beverage. 
By fermentation it is converted into vinegar, v^hich, by distillation, 
yields a fiery spirit; and, fermented with lime, affords a sort of 
sugar * 

The copal is described as a large tree. It yields a gum, used in 
the manufacture of varnish; it is found about the roots, whence it is 
dug up in large quantities, and is often obtained from places where 
the tree had grown many years before. The gum is exported to the 
United States, there manufactured into varnish, and in that form 
brought round the cape of Good Hope and sold in India. 

Among the animals on the island are goats, sheep, Guinea fowls, 
and domestic fowls, which are very cheap (about a half dollar per 

* Establecimientos Ultramarines, Tom. 1, Madrid, l!r84. 



46 ANIMALS CLIMATE — POPULATION. 

dozen j) leopards, lizards, scorpions, several kinds of serpents, among 
which is a large species of coluber, vulgarly designated a boa con- 
strictor^ which is, I believe, peculiar to America; but the most im- 
portant is the zebu {bos indicus) which is held sacred by the Ban- 
yans and other Hindoos| it resembles the ox, but differs from it in 
being of inferior size, in having small, short horns, and in having a 
fleshy hump over the shoulders, whicli is appreciated as a delicious 
morsel. There are also many birds of beautiful plumage; and the 
groves, and shores abound in varieties of the moluscous tribes. 

The climate is warm, and very insalubrious for Europeans, Ame- 
ricans and even unacclimated Arabians. The island is generally un- 
dulated, and is crossed by three principal ridges or hills, the highest 
of which may be five hundred feet above the sea. In the bottoms of 
the valleys thus formed, are found, particularly at the close of the 
rainy seasons, marshy plains and swamps, attributable to drainage 
from the hills. In the neighborhood of these low, damp grounds, 
dysenteries, diarrhoeas, intermittent, and fevers of a malignant cha- 
racter prevail, particularly at the change of the monsoons; that is, 
from March till May, and from October till December. Those 
periods are also the rainy seasons. Almost all those of our crew 
who were employed in watering the ship, were attacked with chole- 
rine, after getting to sea, and one who slept on shore suffered 
severely from fever. In this respect, Zanzibar is little better than 
the whole east coast of Africa, if we may credit the accounts of 
voyagers from the earliest to the present time.* 

At present the population of Zanzibar is estimated at 150,000 
souls, of which from ten to twelve thousand reside in the town. 
This population is made up of Sowalies, or, as they pronounce it most 
guttuniUy, ZuaichUes, Arabs, East Indians, free negroes and slaves, 
the last being about two-thirds of the whole. The free negroes are 
estimated at 17,000. When the island was wrested from the hands 
of the Portuguese, they gained their freedom by flight; but, for a 
certain time were forced to lend personal service to the Sultan, from 
which they are at present exempt in consideration of a yearly tax of 
two dollars a head. The Sowalies are of an African tribe, and do 
not speak Arabic well; indeed. Captain Hassan assured me, he could 
with difilculty understand them, and on important occasions, wherein 
any of them were concerned, he always employed an interpreter^ 

On his return from Calicut, on his first voyage around the cape of 

* Owen's Voyages along" the east coast of Africa, as well as th« voyages 
of the early Portuguese and English navigators. 



COMMERCE — AMERICAN COTTON GOODS. 47 

(jood Hope, Vasco de Gama visited Zanzibar, in February, 1449. 
At that time it was inhabited by Arabs, or Moors, who are repre- 
sented as of " no great force, but carry on a good trade with Mom- 
bassa for Guzerat calicoes," and " with Sofala for gohl." At pre- 
sent, the commerce is very considerable, and, as Zanzibar will 
become the great commercial depot of the eastern coast of Africa, is 
destined to increase. The American trade is chiefly from vSalem, 
Mass. They obtain here gum copal, ivory, and hides, for which 
they give American cottons and specie. The American cotton manu- 
factures have taken precedence of the English, not only at this place 
and in many parts of the East, but on the Pacific coast of America. 
It is in vain the British endeavour to imitate our fabric by stamping 
their Ow^n with American marks, and by other means assimilating it; 
for the people say, the strength and wear of the American goods are 
s« superior, that, lest they be deceived, they will no longer even 
purchase from Englishmen. Speaking of the competition with Bri- 
tish commerce in India, Lieutenant Burnes, in his interesting " Tra- 
vels into Bokhara," says: " The most formidable rivals are the Ame- 
ricans, who have only lately entered on this trade. At present, they 
land most of their cargoes on the east coast of Africa, from which 
they find their way to Muscat and Persia. Hitherto, they have only 
sent white goods, and with them they have spread an opinion, which 
was repeated to me by the Armenian merchants of Isfahan, that their 
cloths are superior to the British, because the cotton is produced in 
their own country and not injured from pressing. It is said to wear 
and wash wellj and, if tins cloth w^ere introduced more extensively, 
the merchants assure me that it would have a good sale: very little 
of it has been hitherto imported." 

The foreign vessels v;hich visited Zanzibar from the 16th of 
September, 1832, until the 26th of May, 1834, amounted in all to 
forty-one sail| viz. 

Nation. Mumber of vessels. Tonnage. 

American, - - 32 - - - 5497 

English, . - 7 - - - 1403 

French, - - 1 - - - 340 

Spanish, - r 1 .- - - - 319 



Total 41 7559 

Of the American vessels, four were whale shipsj twenty were 
from Salem, three from Boston, three from New York, and two are 
set down from Majungo (Madagascar) and Cape Delgado. 



48 DAUS. 

The number of native vessels visiting the island is very conside- 
rable. They are called * dalls,' (Anglice clows) and do not differ in 
the present day, from those described by the early Portuguese voy- 
agers. They vary in size from five, to three or even four hundred 
tons burden. They are extremely sharp at the bowj the deck being 
at least one third longer than the keel. The planks, in the smaller 
sizes, are sewed together with coYr rope; the seams are caulked with 
cocoanut husks and the bottom is paid over with a composition, con- 
sisting of lime and oil or tallow, called chunam, which possessing the 
property of hardening under water, protects the wood from the at- 
tacks of marine worms. They have a single mast, stepped a little 
ahead of the centre and raking forward, upon which is set a square 
sail of very coarse material. They have an open poop on the stern; 
the rudder is very large, and often secured by ropes only. These ves- 
sels are met with all over the Indian Ocean, and I am inclined to be- 
lieve that very little improvement has been made in their construc- 
tion from the period when the Roman and Venetian merchants sup- 
plied Italy with the spices and gums of the East by the way of the 
Hed Sea. At that period these daiis carried the products of all Asia, 
ihe silks of Persia, and India, the gems of Ceylon, and the spices of 
the Archipelago, up the Red Sea to the port of Berenice, the remains 
jof which still exist. "Berenice, a town which connects the history 
of ancient Egypt with that of the Macedonian and Roman power in 
Africa, and at the same time indicates one of the channels through 
which commerce was carried on between the remoter parts of Asia 
and the nations of Europe. According to Pliny, it was through Be- 
renice that the principal trade of the Romans with India was con- 
ducted, by means of caravans, which reached the Nile at Coptos, 
pot far from the point at which the present shorter road by Cosseir 
fleets the river. By this medium it is said that a sum not less than 
^400,000 v/as annually remitted by them to their correspondents 
in the East, in payment of merchandise, which ultimately sold for a 
hundred times as much."* 

" It is well known that Berenice was built by Ptolemy Philadel- 
phus, a little after the establishment of Myos Hormus. Situated in 
a lower part of the gulf, it facilitated navigation by enabling mari- 
ners to take advantage of the regular winds. The inland route be- 
tween Captos and Berenice, was opened with an army by the same 

♦ "View of Ancient and Modern Egypt," by the Rev. Micliael Russel, I<. li. D. 
^Gibson's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. 



HIDE TO TAYEF. 49 

prince, who established stations along it for the protection of travel- 
lers. This relation wliich is given bj Strabo, agrees with the Aclu- 
litic preserved in Cosmas, which records the Ethiopian conquests of 
Ptolemy Euergetes, who seems to have adopted the commercial plans 
of his father, and to have endeavoured to extend them. The Romans, 
when they conquered Egypt, immediately perceived the importance 
of tiiese arrangements^ Berenice became the centre of their Eastern 
trade, and Myos Hormus sunk to a subordinate station." 

A party of twelve officers landed early one morning at Metony, 
where, according to previous arrangement, we found Captain Hassan, 
with three horses and an ample number of donkeys. In a few mi- 
nutes we mounted, and set off, each of us followed by a young slave, 
whose business was to flog the beast whenever occasion required, the 
captain of the castle, a tall Abyssinian eunuch, who had been pro- 
moted by the Sultan for faithful service, dressed in a loose suit of 
bright red cloth, acted in the capacity of steward, and guide to the 
party. Our seats proved to be rather less than intolerable, and we 
mutually laughed at each other's expense. For the first half mile, 
our road lay along the beach, and then through cocoanut groves, two 
or three miles, sometimes ascending hills and again descending into 
little vales. On every hand were highly cultivated spots, and here 
and there peeped forth a hut, shaded by the mango, loaded with its 
delicious fruit. Our march was quite picturesque, led as it now was 
by the Abyssinian, whose long jetty legs v/ere drawn up and closely 
embraced his donkey, which he urged on to be at Tayef in time to 
receive us, his red mantle streaming behind and flapping in the breeze, 
at every spring of the animal. The path was only wide enough for 
two to ride abreast; but from an ungovernable propensity of our nags, 
we trotted on single file, a runner following each one, beating the 
beasts along with good-Vv'ill. The negroes were all naked, with the 
exception of the waist-cloth, and most of them had their heads smooth- 
ly shaved; they could be only compared to so many monkeys. 

A broad road, leading through long vistas of dark green clove trees, 
very carefully cultivated, showed that we were now on the grounds 
of Tayef, formerly Izimbane, an extensive plantation belonging to 
the Sultan of Muscat. We rode on, highly delighted with the view, 
and reached the house just in time to escape a shower of rain, and 
there found the Abyssinian captain ready to receive us. We alighted 
at the outer gate, and crossing a large yard, entered the mansion by 
a flight of wooden steps. It is a one story building, about fifty [ett 
square, having, in front, a pyramidal roofed observatory or veranda^ 



50 CLOVE PLAKTATION. 

beneath which, there is a kind of porch. The front door opens trpon 
a small court, from which, on the opposite side, we entered a cheer- 
less room, extending the whole length of the house, and lighted by 
several large windows. Cut glass chandeliers hung from the raf- 
tered ceiling; and on shelves, in fiat recesses about eight inches deep, 
arched at the top, there was a display of glass, and French China or- 
naments. At one end of the apartment, were tw^o or three large pine 
boxes, upon which lay the mirrors they had contained, partially hid 
by catton cloths. Near the centre was an oblong mahogany table, 
supported by an antiquated claw foot; the rest of the furniture con- 
sisted of Chinese arm-chairs. One half of the floor was laid with 
squares of marble, and the other was covered with chunam. 

Cocoanuts were opened and oifered to us in profusion, and the 
stalk of the young cocoanut, divested of its outside, was given us to 
eat; its taste resembles that of raw chestnuts. 

Being a little refreshed after our donkey-jolting, we sallied forth 
to view the plantation. The house stands in the centre of a yard 
about one hundred and twenty feet square; its walls are of coral, 
about seven feet high, and enclose several out-buildings for slaves, 
and, near the mansion, a small garden, in which were flourishing, to- 
gether, the rose-bush and nutmeg tree. As far as the eye could reach 
over a beautifully undulated land, there was nothing to be seen but 
clove trees of different ages, varying in height from five to twenty 
feet. The form of the tree is conical, and the branches grow at nearly 
right angles with the trunk, and they begin to shoot a few inches 
above the ground. The plantation contains nearly four thousand 
trees, and each tree yields, on an average, six pounds of cloves a 
year. They are carefully picked by hand, and then dried in the 
shade; we saw numbers of slaves standing on ladders, gathering the 
fruit, while others were at work clearing the ground of dead leaves. 
The whole is in the finest order, presenting a picture of industry, and 
admirable neatness and beauty. 

It is pretty generally knov/n that the Dutch, for nearly three cen- 
turies, have been deriving great commercial advantages by their ex- 
clusive possession of those islands in the Indian Archipelago which 
produce the nutmeg and clove trees. In order to appropriate these 
spices to themselves, t^ey either destroyed or enslaved those people 
who possessed them. They uprooted numberless trees, and even 
burned the fruit which they had already prepared, lest, by bringing 
a large quantity into the market, the price might be reduced, though 
it was in their own hands. Such barbarian avarice excited the in- 



HISTORY OF THE CLOVE TREE-— VALUE OF CLOVES. 51 

dignatioii of many, who longed to foil and afterwards laugh at their 
policy. 

M. Foivre, who had visited many parts of Asia, in the charac- 
ter of naturalist and philosopher, availing himself of the official sta- 
tion he held as Governor of Mauritius, or Isle of France, sent to the 
least frequented of the Moluccas in search of those precious plants. 
Those whom he had commissioned v/ere successful in the enterprise, 
and, on the 27ih. of June, 1770, returned to the Isle of France, with 
four hundred and fifty nutmeg and seventy clove tree stalks, ten 
thousand nutmegs in blossom, or ready to blossom, and a box in 
which clove seeds were planted, many of which were above the earth. 
Two years afterwards, he obtained even a larger suppiy. 

Some of the phints were sent to the Sechelles, to Bourbon and to 
Cayenne, but a greater number were retained in the Isle of France, 
All those distributed to private individuals perished; and in spite of 
the care of skilful botanists, a most unremitting attention and con- 
siderable expense, only iifty-eight nutmeg and thirty-eight clove 
trees were saved. In 1775, two of the latter bore blossoms, which 
became fruit in the following year, but it was small, dry, and light. 
Little hope of final success was entertained, and it was thought, at 
the time, the Dutch had been unnecessarily alarmed.* However, it 
appears that the enterprise and industry of the cultivators were re- 
warded in the end, and they had the pleasure of seeing these spice 
trees flourish in their new location. 

They were introduced into Zanzibar, from Mauritius, in 1818, 
and are found to thrive so w^ell that almost every body on the island 
is now clearing away the cocoanut to make way for them. The clove 
bears in five years from the seed; of course time enough has not jet 
elapsed for the value and quantity of Zanzibar cloves to be generally 
known; and it may be said, the clove trade is still in the hands of 
the Dutch. It has been a monopoly ever since they obtained su- 
premacy in the Moluccas; in their possessions, the cultivation of the 
tree is restricted to the single island of Amboyna. 

Cloves are now 55 per cent, dearer than when first brought round 
the cape of Good Hope, and are sold to the consumer at an advance 
of 1258 per cent, on the first cost of production. The price for Mo- 
lucca cloves, in the eastern market, is from 28 to $30 per picul of 
133lbs.; for those from Mauritius, 20 to $24 per picul. t 

A smart shower compelled us to return to the house, rather too 

* Establecimlentos Ultramarinos, Tom. IIF. Madrkl, 1786, 
f Chinese Repository, vol. ir. Canton, 1854, 



52 THE DE.fEUNE- — rilRENOLOGY. 

soon for the arrangements of our host. On entering the saloon, we 
found our Abyssinian upon one knee, with a large salver before him, 
on the floor, upon which was an entire, baked goat, buried in a 
quantity of cold fowls, piled up around it. 

Thej had been brought from town for the occasion. The worthy 
captain of the castle was tearing the goat in pieces, with his huge 
black hands, and, piling it on plates, which were conveyed to the 
table by several assisting slaves. In a few n:iinutes, the arrangements 
were complete, and the table was literally heaped up with cold 
meats, sweetmeats and millet cakes. We took our seats, and, though 
the feast differed in many minor points, the absence of salt being one, 
from what we are accustomed, we made an excellent meal, our 
appetites being whetted by the early morning ride. We were served 
by a host of slaves, and Captain Hassan did the honors of the house 
in a most gentlemanly and graceful manner. Our drink consisted of 
sirup and water, here called sherbet, and cocoanut water exclu- 
sively. 

The dejeune ended about half past twelve o'clock^ from that time 
till four p. M., we spent in walking, smoking, and talking. Among 
other subjects, phrenology was mentioned, and after describing the 
science in general terms. Captain Hassan submitted his head to ex- 
amination, by way of illustration. A few minutes afterwards I found 
him in the court with his turban off, feeling his own headj on per- 
ceiving me he appeared to be somewhat confused, and said, "It is 
very strange — you have told me truly, but 1 can discover nothing by 
which you have found out these things." 

At half past four o'clock p. m., we were again mounted, and at- 
tended as we had been in the morning. After a ride of six miles, 
we reached Metony, at sunset, all of us delighted with our excur- 
sion. We took leave of Captain Hassan on the beach; and I am 
sure we shall long remember the kindness and attention so liberally 
extended to us, while at Zanzibar by that gentleman. Nor shall we 
soon forget the Abyssinian, who, on bidding us farewell, begged the 
captain to say that he would be happy to serve us whenever it might 
be in his power. 

At Zanzibar the ship was supplied with fresh provisions and every- 
thing in the greatest abundance, for which Captain Hassan would 
receive no remuneration, saying that it was all done by the orders of 
His Highness, the Sultan of Muscat. 

Postscript. After a passage of sixty-three days, the Enterprise 
arrived on the 14th of September, and sailed again on the 20th. 



SAII- FROM ZANZIBAR PIRATES— -PEMBA. 53 

During her stay, she met with the same attention and hospitality 
which had been extended to the Peacock, and her officers speak of 
Captain Hassan in the highest terms of praise. 



CHAPTER VI. 

VOYA.GE FROM ZANZIBAR TO MUSCAT. 

Odoher, 1835. 

On the morning of the eighth of September, we bade farewell to 
Zanzibar^ but the wind was so unfavorable that we anchored, to- 
wards sunset, close to Tumbat. We landed, but found only a closely 
growing vegetation, and no other inhabitants than pirates— a race of 
crabs, so named by sailors, from the circumstance that they dwell in 
the shells of other animals, which they expel, and then usurp their 
place. Near the remains of a fishing !nit, there v/ere great numbers 
of them, moving about briskly, and dragging after them their stolen 
homes wherever they went. The island is of a coral formation, 
thinly covered with soil, which is sufficient, however, to sustain a 
growth, even to the water's edge. 

Early the following day, we weighed anchor, and, standing to the 
northward, soon passed the fertile island of Pemba, on the west 
side. Its extent is less than that of Zanzibar, but it is represented 
to be far more rich in its agricultural productions. Before sunset, 
the land had faded away in distance, and we were sailing gaily on 
the bosom of the Indian Ocean. 

When we had crossed the equator into the northern hemisphere, 
almost every night, the sea presented to us a beautiful spectacle. 
Every ripple, every spray dashed from the bows, and every breaking 
wave seemed to be on fire. The light thus thrown out from the 
waters, was pale, like that from phosphorus in slow combustion^ oc- 
casionally, it illumined our sails, but was not sufficient, at any time,, 
to read by. This appearance is owing to diminutive masses of ani- 



54 rHOSPHORESCEXCE OF THE SEA SHIP ASHORE. 

mated matter, resembling jelly; they are transparent as glass, and 
when touched, emit light like the fire-fly. The agitation caused 
among them by the motion of the sea, the passage of a ship, or fish, 
provokes this emission of light. Sometimes our wake was compara- 
ble to a stream of fire; fish might be followed in their quick motions 
through their element, which were traceable by flashes of darting 
light, and the v/ave dashed into spray by our advancing prow fell 
down in a dazzling shower, like diamond sparks. 

The night of the twentieth was very pleasant. The sea during 
the day was remarkably green, and though we sounded at sunset, we 
found no bottom at a hundred fathoms. In the evening a land bird 
flew on board, and about ten o'clock, P. M., two small birds, together 
with some sea-weed, were caught; but in spite of these indications, 
we did not suspect ourselves to be near land; and, placing full confi- 
dence in our meridian observations, which placed us sixty miles 
from the shore, we swept along towards our destined port, steering 
north half east, with the wind to the southward and westward, with 
studding sails set 'low and aloft.' Our sense of security well 
nigh proved fatal to us all. 

About twenty minutes past two o'clock, on the morning of the 
twenty-first, all hands, except the watch on deck, were roused from 
sleep by a horrid noise, caused by the ship's bottom grinding and 
tearing and leaping on a bed of coral rocks! When she struck, the 
ship was sailing at the rate of seven and a half miles the hour, and 
her progression was not suddenly and fully arrested, but she ran on 
for some minutes after the helm had been ' put up' — the wind was 
on the larboard quarter, and consequently oif shore. When I 
reached the deck, it was starlight, the breeze was fresh, and neither 
land nor breakers could be any where seen; by shifting the helm, 
the wind had been brought on the starboard side, and the sails no 
longer opposed to it, by their surface, were fitfully flapping and 
slashing as the wind swept past them. The ship rolled with an un- 
certain, wavering motion, grinding and tearing the coral as her sides 
alternately came against it. The uncertainty of our situation, threat- 
ened as we w^ere with destruction, the crashing of coral, the dark- 
ness of the niglit, the wallop, wallop, of the sails; the fast succeeding 
orders of the officer of the watch, and the piping of the boatswain 
and his mates, produced an impression not easily described nor for- 
gotten. There was an appearance of confusion, but every thing 
went on with as much regard to rule as if the catastrophe had been 
anticipated. Every one asked, * Where are we?' but no one knew; 



SHIP ASHORK EFFECT OF HABIT RAFT MADFL. 00 

nor was it easy to explain at this time, by what means we had got on 
shore. The chronometers, hitherto confided in, were now suspected; 
and some called in question the accuracy of the charts. This was 
in the first moment of excitement, v/hen we might have supposed 
there would have been some manifestations of fear, but there were 
none. Just at this moment, we had a fine example of the effects of 
habit. When every body was hurrying on deck, a young gentleman 
who had been for a long time a valetudinarian was seen completely 
dressed, coming up amongst the last, with a cloak hanging over his 
arm. On being asked what he was about to do with it, the ther- 
mometer standing at 80° ¥., he replied, "Going ashore in the boat, 
I shall catch cold from the night air." 

As the ship no longer moved forward, but lay floiindenng from 
side to side, all sail was taken in, and an officer was sent to ascertain 
in what direction was the deepest water. In the mean time the boats 
were hoisted out, and an anchor placed in one of them; and, on the 
return of the officer who had been sent to sound, it was carried 
about three hundred yards to the southward, where there was suffi- 
cient depth to float us, and there let go, with the view of heaving off 
the ship. As the most speedy way of lightening her, about five 
thousand gallons of water were pumped overboard, but it was m 
vain. 

The first gleam of day discovered a low sandy desert, about three 
miles to the eastward of us, trending north and south, the extreme 
points in sight bearing east half south, and west half north. The 
water was in spots, of a bright green, from its shallowness, but dark 
where it was deeper. The work of lightening the ship was con- 
tinued. A raft was constructed of spare spars, and loaded with pro- 
visions, and several tons of shot were thrown overboard. When the 
tide began to fall, to prevent the ship from rolling entirely over, a 
large spar was placed w^ith one end resting on the bottom and the 
other secured to the side, so as to give effectual support, or shore 
her up. 

About ten o'clock, A. M., a large canoe, the stern and bows rising 
high, propelled by a thin square sail, and manned by four men, ap- 
proached the ship. We sent an unarmed boat towards her, and an 
indifferent interpreter, a distressed Pole, named Michael, who, ac- 
cording to his own account, having travelled over land from Poland 
to Bombay, spoke passable Arabic, Italian and Dutch, but neither 
French nor English. When near enough, he hailed the Arab, who 
manifested strong repugnance to commumcation. While our boat 



56 ISLAND 01'- MAZElllA— SHIP VISITED BY BEDOUIN'S. 

pulled rapidly towards him, he carried the tack of his sail forward 
and hauled the sheet close aftj then his wild companions stood up, 
and we could see their broadswords flashing in the sun as they flou- 
rished them over their heads, in a manner not to be misunderstood; 
our boat, therefore, returned, without opening any amicable inter- 
course, and the canoe anchored close to the shore. 

Later in the day, an officer was sent towards the beach, to ascer- 
tain the state of the tide. Immediately on perceiving our boat near 
the shore, an Arab sprang from the canoe and ran along the sand* 
brandishing his sword, intimating that he would offer opposition to 
the landing. 

At meridian, we found our latitude to be 20° 20' north, and the 
longitude 58° 59/ east. We were now all of opinion that the ship 
was on the island of Mazeira, which, according to the charts, lies 
about ten miles from the coast of Happy Arabia; it is thirty-five miles 
long, and iQW or twelve broad; it trends south-west and north-east. 
About one o'clock, P. M., four large canoes were seen, approaching 
from the northward. They joined company with the one above men- 
tioned, and then all anchored close to the ship, now very much ca- 
reened from the falling of the tide. Three of the canoes were large, 
with two masts, and might be termed dUus. In this fleet, besides 
several negro rowers, we counted twenty-nine fighting men, each one 
wearing a ' khunger ' in his girdle, and there were spears, and broad- 
swords and matchlocks enough in sight to fill their hands. A spear 
or two was stuck up in the after part of each canoe, where there was 
a sort of poop, affording a place of shelter from the sun. 

After anchoring, several persons left the canoes in which they had 
come, and assembled on board another, which was paddled near to 
the ship. A tall old man, with a white beard, stood up, and, throw- 
ing up his naked arms, and nodding his head, hailed us; from his ges- 
ture, we gathered that he demanded to know whether we would cut his 
throat, if he should come on board, and he certainly manifested that 
he placed very little confidence in us. After a {qw minutes' consul- 
tation, they came alongside, and two of them climbed on deck. 

From the lawless and vagrant character of the Bedouin Arabs, of 
this part of the coast, as well as from the behaviour of the canoes, we 
suspected that they designed an attack, with the object of plunder; 
and so soon as they began to anchor, tliecrew armed themselves with 
pikes and cutlasses, and lay concealed, for the most part, behind the 
bulwarks. Some few, however, might have been seen grinding their 
pikes and cutlasses, and, as they mechanically ran their fingers over 



A BEDOUIN WARRIOR. 5T 

the edge to ascertain its keenness, casting their eyes eyer and anon 
upon the canoes. 

When the two Arabs entered at the gangway, the decks were filled 
with armed men, whose eyes naturally followed the strangers as they 
moved aft, bowing and shaking hands with every individual they met, 
but in a manner that illy concealed their own trejoidation, arising from 
the scene into which they had been so suddenly and so unexpectedly 
introduced, nor were the glances of our men calculated to allay any 
fears they may have entertained. On reaching the after part of the 
quarter deck, where the Commodore and Captain awaited them, they 
squatted themselves upon an arm chest, and the old man talked away 
at a rapid rate, apparently unconcerned whether understood or not. 

Their costume consisted of a large turban, a waist-cloth, hanging 
nearly to the knees, and a girdle, in which was stuck the ' khunger.' 

The elder of the two was very talkative, and had rather a cunning 
expression of face, while the younger was more taciturn. His figure 
was slight, but every one expressed, in strong terms, admiration for 
his beauty. A thick fell of curling black hair, which reached to the 
shoulders; keen, dark hazle eyes, regular features, smooth dark skin, 
white teeth, and above all the intelligence of his countenance, im- 
parted to the beauty of his face a feminine character, but the jetty 
mustache and curling black beard, stamped him as a young warrior. 
They partook of sea biscuit and sugar, but owing to the incapacity of 
our interpreter, Michael, we obtained from them very little satisfac- 
tory information. According to his version, they stated that Mazei- 
ra was ruled by a Sultan, who v/ould forward a letter for us to Mus- 
cat, if we should send on shore and request him to do so: Or, they 
themselves would convey a letter for a thousand dollars. They in- 
quired how much money we had on board, and said forty more daus 
were comings 

In a few minutes, they left us. The young warrior removed the 
khunger from his girdle, and secured it by the folds of his turban to 
one side of his head, and then lowering himself by a rope down the 
ship's side, dropped into the sea and swam gracefully to his ca- 
noe, followed by his companion. Soon afterwards, they all weighed 
anchor and stood away to the southward. 

Towards sunset, when the tide had risen, efforts were again made 
to heave off the ship, but without even affording us a hope of success. 
Our situation v/as every hour becoming very critical. We were satis- 
fied, that the Bedouins had not paid us their final visit, but were inclined 



58 rROSPECTS OF SHirWllECK CUTTER SEXT TO MUSCAT. 

to believe thej would soon appear in greater numbers, to attack the 
ship, and though we were more than a match for them, at this mo- 
ment, when the ship was on an even keel and the crew not very much 
fatigued, in the course of a very few days the case would be different. 
The sea was so smooth, we did not apprehend that the ship would 
soon go in pieces, nor did we think there was any danger of a gale at 
this season; but our supply of water was inadequate to our necessi- 
ties for more than a few days, and incessant labor must soon exhaust 
the forces of the crew. We might be under the necessity of land- 
ing, as our boats were not sufficiently numerous to carry us all to 
Muscat, and in that case, we had little to anticipate from the hospi- 
tality of tlie Bedouins, for 

*' The good old rule sufficeth them; 
They shall take who have the power; 
They shall keep wlio can." 

The prospect of getting the ship afiout was distant, and as the 
surest means of obtaining relief, the second cutter was equipped, 
with a crew of sis picked men, and despatched early the next morn- 
ing, to Muscat, under the command of Passed Midshipman, AYilliam 
Roo;ers Tavlor. Thinking; that his services would be more valuable 
in Muscat, with the Sultan, than they could be on board, Mr. Ro- 
berts volunteered, and accomoanied Mr. Tavlor, bearins; with him the 
treaty. This expedition was by no means without peril; for, although 
little was feared from sailing the ocean in an open boat, at this sea- 
son, there was much to be dreaded from the Arab pirates, who have 
made this section of the coast their home, from time immen"iorial. 
But the danger which awaited those who remained on board, and 
those who embarked for Muscat was probably equal; and, making it 
purely a question of safety whether to go or stay, would have re- 
quired, at that time, considerable deliberation. 

On Tuesday morning, the 2^2d, soon after the departure of the 
second cutter, the work of lightening was continued, and we saw, 
with feelings of regret, one half of our guns cast into the sea. The 
upper spars and sails were sent down from aloft, and on renewing our 
efforts to heave, at the top of the tide, we discovered, with pleasure, 
that the ship moved. This infused new life into all hands. The 
men broke forth in a song and chorus, to which thej kept time as 
they marched round the capstan, or hauled the hawser in by hand. 



SKIRMISH WITH THE BEDOUINS. 5y 

'^ Heave, and she must go," sang one, as a leader, in a high key, 
and all the men answered, in chorus, 

" Ho! cheerly." 

" Heave, and she will go," 

"Ho! cheerly." 

When she moved more easily, those at the capstan sang, to the 
tune of " The Highland Laddie," 

" I wish I were in New York town, 
Bonny Laddie, Highland Laddie," &c. 

At two o'clock, P. M., wf anchored in three and a half fathoms 
water, yet the distance was so great to where it would be safe to 
make sail, we were by no means sure of getting oif, for incessant la- 
bor was wearing out the crew, and it was with difficulty the anchors 
were made to hold. 

About nine o'clock in the morning, two of the canoes which had 
visited us the day before, anchored close to the ship, and the Bedouins 
on board of them sat, shaded by their mantles, silently watching our 
motions. They held up to us a piece of plank; whether it belonged 
to our own or some other unfortunate vessel we did not know. At 
the end of an hour they left us, and anchored close to our raft, where 
they were joined by a third canoe. When we anchored, the raft was 
half a mile directly astern; and in a little while we discovered them 
robbing it of light spars, and they probably would have taken off 
other things, had they not been alarmed by the discharge of several 
muskets. In an instant the launch was manned by volunteers, and 
shoved off, under the command of Lieutenant Godon, who was ac- 
companied by Mr. Jacob Caldwell, Second Master, and Passed Mid- 
shipman B. S. B. Darlington. The canoes hauled close upon a wind, 
and stood to the southward and westward, while the launch pulled 
rapidly in a direction to head them off. It was some time before the 
canoes came within range of our guns; and when they did, our own 
boat was somewhat in the way; nevertheless, a gun was fired, and a 
shot dropped very near to them, but without any other effect than to 
induce them to take on board the spars which they had in tow. Owing 
to the wind being adverse, the launch did not get nearer than within 
long musket shot; but from this distance she tired several volleys. 
In all, four guns were fired from the ship, but fell short of their ob- 
ject; and we saw the savages triumphantly bearing off their prize, 
without our being able to prevent it. 

In the afternoon, a kedge anchor wa^s carried out, but, the wind 



60 ATTEMPT TO OUT OFF THE BOATS. 

being fresh, we had the misfortune to break, or part the hawser, and 
were obliged to let go both anchors. This accident caused us to 
drift into more shallow watery and it was dispiriting, because it ren- 
dered a great part of the day's toil to be repeated. In the night, 
when the tide, which flow^ed and ebbed about six feet, fell, the ship 
struck very heavily, and we found her leaking at the rate of a foot 
an hour. Although her whole frame trembled under these shocks, 
the seamen were so completely wearied, and overcome by sleep, 
*' chief nourisher of life's course," that it was with great difficulty 
they could be roused, when it became necessary to " shore up " the 
ship. Nor were the slumbers of the officers less profound. Though 
they were fully aware of the peril which surrounded us, the mind 
was but little occupied by apprehension | on the contrary, three offi- 
cers spent an hour that evening in the ward room, discussing the 
probabilities of the next presidential election, and other subjects not 
less foreign to our situation. Even when our chances were men- 
tioned, the topic frequently became ridiculous, by some one picturing 
a messmate, in the capacity of a slave to a Bedouin chief, driving 
his camels over the desert, or carrying water, or performing menial 
services, in which case the figurante was always represented as 
giving constant offence by his awkwardness. And, indeed, there 
would have been more truth than poetry in these improvaticinations, 
had we been cast on shore, for slavery, until redeemed, was the 
lightest evil we should have met with. 

Tlie next morning, (the twenty-third,) while busied in getting the 
kedge, which had been lost the evening before, five large canoes 
made their appearance from the southward, and manoevoured in such 
a manner, as to leave no doubt, that they intended to cut off the 
boats employed j and the officer, commanding them, at the instance 
of the men, sent to the ship for arms. However, three shot, well 
directed from the ship, caused the canoes to haul their wind, and we 
saw them pass behind the low land, which proved to be a small 
island of sand. Had the Arabs succeeded in their bold attempt, we 
should have been deprived, in a great degree, of the means of saving 
the ship, and, in the event of her going into pieces, of saving out- 
own lives. 

Having laid out a kedge well to windward, the shore being to 
leeward, and hoisted up the topsail yards, with the sails furled upon 
them, we hove up both anchors^ finding one of them broken and use- 
less, it was thrown away. We commenced hauling in the hawser, 
which was watched with intense anxiety; for had it broken^ our 



SHIP AFLOAT— CAUSE OF GFTTINT. ASHORE. Gl 

hopes would have been almost at an end. Fortunately it held. The 
ship was now well oft' the shore, but the depth of water was only 
three and' a quarter fathoms. The topsails were let fall, and spread 
with great celerity; at the same instant the " back rope" of the 
kedge was cut, and we were once more, under the influence of our 
canvass. At six o'clock we had beat off shore ten or twelve miles, 
and anchored in six fathoms water, with the island of Mazeira in 
sight, clearly showing us, that we were between it and the main. 
During the night, we dragged our anchors, but brought up again on 
giving more cable. Early on the twenty-fourth, we got underv/ay, 
and beat out of the gulf of Mazeira. At sunset, the southern ex- 
tremity of the island was astern, and a last cast of the lead gave us 
thirty fathoms, in an open sea, after having been grinding the coral 
for fifty-six hours! 

It is due both to officers and men-— and it illustrates the great ad- 
vantage of discipline — to state, that from the time of getting on shore 
until getting off, there was not the slightest irregularity in the me- 
thod of carrying on the duties of the ship, although, in a time of so 
much excitement, the reverse might have been expected. The orders 
were given in the usual manner, and obeyed with cheerful alacrity 
by the men, although nearly worn down by continued and severe 
toil. To this circumstance, and to the active and well directed 
efi'orts of the crew, we are alone indebted for our escape from total 
shipwreck. 

The island of Mazeira, is a pile of dark, arid rocks, rising, per- 
haps, five or six hundred feet above the level of the sea, without a 
single spot of verdure upon it. The sand lay in drifted wreaths in 
the gorges, imparting to it a most desolate and inhospitable appear- 
ance. 

The following letter will explain the cause of our misfortune, and 
may serve to protect others, when cruising in this region. 

*' I certify that during the period I have navigated the Arabian 
coast, and been employed in the trigonometrical survey of the same, 
now executing by order of the Bombay government, that I have 
ever found it necessary to be careful to take nocturnal as well as 
diurnal observations, as frequent, as possible, owing to the rapidity 
and fickleness of the currents, which, in some parts, I have found 
running at the rate of three and four knots an hour, and I have 
known the Palinurus set between forty and fifty miles dead in shore^ 
in a dead calm, during the night, 



62 THE SULTANE ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT. 

** It is owino- to such currents, that I conceive the United States ship of 
war Peacock run aground, as have manjBritish ships in previous years, 
on and near the same spot; when at the changes of the monsoons, and 
sometimes at the full and change, you have such thick weather, as to 
prevent the necessary observations being taken with accuracy and 
the navigator standing on with confidence as to his position, and with 
no land in sight, finds himself to his sorrow, often wrong, owing to 
a deceitful and imperceptible current, which has set him with rapi- 
dity upon it. The position of Mazeira Island, is laid dow^n by 
Owen many miles too much to the westward. 

Given under my hand this 10th day of November, 1835. 

S. B. Haines. 
Commander of the 
Honourable East India Company's ) 
surveying brig Palinurus. ) 
To sailing master, 

John Weems, U. S. Navy." 

After doubling Cape Ras al Had, we encountered calms. On the 
morning of the 28th, we met the " Sultane, " a small Arab sloop of 
war, bound to our relief, with Mr. Taylor and the boat's crew on 
board. Captain Hammet bin Soliman of the Sultane, with a pilot 
who spoke English, and two servants, came on board of the Peacock, 
bringing with them presents of dates, fruit, zebus and goats. 

It was nearly calm all day, and w^e did not enter the cove of Mus- 
cat until the afternoon of the twenty-ninth. Early that day we had 
the pleasure of receiving Mr. Roberts on board, accompanied by 
Captain Seid bin Calfaun, with whom he put oif from shore so soon 
as the Peacock hove in sight. Just before reaching the anchorage, 
we were welcomed into port, by salutes from all the forts and ships 
of war in the harbor, which were properly acknowledged on our 
part. 

When the second cutter left the ship, on the morning of the 
twenty-second, in order to avoid meeting with piratical daus, she 
stood seaward, and to the surprise of every one on board, after a 
few hours, descried the island of Mazeira. They altered their course, 
and stood out of the gulf of Mazeira, by the southern end of the 
island. They were chased that day upwards of five hours by a pi- 
ratical dau, and only escaped by the coming on of night. As the sun 
sank, the wind and sea rose so high that the boat was two or three 
times in imminent danger of being filled with water. During the 



CRUISE OF THE CUTTER KINDNESS OF THE SULlAK. 63 

day, the sun was intensely hot, and, blistered the skin wherever it 
was exposed; and at night, the dews were very heavy. Combined 
with 'these annoyances, were the narrow limits of the boat, which 
prevented them almost from changing their position, or lying down 
to sleep, and the provisions which they carried, got wet with salt 
water. 

On the night of the twenty-fifth, they anchored in a small bay, a 
little to the southward of Muscat, that they might not pass their port, 
and the next morning, after a harassing voyage, of one hundred and 
one hours, or four days and five hours, reached their destination, 
hungry, and almost exhausted by fatigue and watching. It is worthy 
of remark, that only one of the party suffered any illness in conse- 
quence of this exposure; Mr. Taylor experienced a sliglit indispo- 
sition of two or three days, of a nervous character. 

Immediately after their arrival, Mr. Roberts repaired to the house 
of Captain Seid bin Calfaun, the Sultan's interpreter and translator 
of English, and forthwith despatched him to inform the Sultan of the 
perilous situation of the Peacock, and request him to send to her as- 
sistance a vessel with a supply of water, &c. As soon as the sad tale 
was heard, " Ois Highness" ordered Captain Hammet to have the 
Sultane, at that moment, unrigged, or, as the nautical phrase is,, 
"stripped to a girtlioe," equipped, and supplied plentifully with 
water and provisions, and to sail the next day for Mazeira. An or- 
der was despatched to the governor of Zoar, a large town near Ras 
al Had, and about one hundred miles to the southward of Muscat., 
to proceed himself, with four diius and three hundred men, for the 
protection of the crew and property of the Peacock, until the Sultane 
should arrive; and, to prevent any mistake, the governor of Zoar 
was furnished with an American flag, which he was to display on 
approaching the ship, and with a letter from Mr. Roberts to the 
Commodore, explaining the object of this little squadron. An armed 
dau was ordered to be prepared, with a further supply of provisions 
and water, to sail in two days; and couriers, with armed escorts, 
were sent to the governor of Mazeira, and to the principal Bedouin 
chiefs on the main, declaring that " His Highness " would hold them 
responsible with their heads for the loss of a single life belonging to 
the Peacock's crew, or for any property that should be stolen by any 
individual of their several tribes. A troop of three hundred and fifty 
Bedouin cavalry, on duty without the walls of the city, were ordered 
to proceed to the coast, to protect any of our crew who might be 



64 THE sultan's munificent TKEATMliNT OF MR. ROBERTS. 

forced to land, and to escort them to Mascat. Within an hour and 
a half the couriers had departed^ in less than that time, the Bedouins 
bestrode their Arab steeds and M^ere on the road; and the sloop of 
war, furnished with every necessary, sailed the next afternoon, 
having on board the cutter's crew and Mr. Taylor, to whom ''His 
Highness " had given her in temporary command. 

On the same afternoon, Mr. Roberts had an audience with the 
Sultan. " His Highness " received him in the divan, which fronts 
the harbor, in a most cordial and friendly manner, and evinced much 
sympathy in our misfortune and sufferings. Every sort of aid which 
could be devised was proffered and insisted on; not only by *'His 
Highness," but also by his two sons; by the Ouali, or governor of 
Muscat, and by the whole divan, or council, which was present; to 
the members of which Mr. Roberts had been personally known on 
his former visit. The Sultan then pointed out, from his chair, a 
sloop of war, which, he said, in case of the total loss of the Peacock, 
should carry her officers and crew to the United States; and, in or- 
der that the business of the embassy might not be delayed, another 
sloop of war, or frigate, was offered, to carry the envoy wherever it 
were necessary, and, after the conclusion of his mission, to convey 
him to the United States. A house, with every necessary appliance, 
was ordered to be prepared for the accommodation of Mr. Roberts; 
or the cabin of a frigate in the harbor, as he might prefer it, in con- 
sequence of the very oppressive heat of the city, both of which were 
respectfully declined, until the fate of the Peacock should be ascer- 
tained. 

On the 28th, " His Highness " visited Mr. Roberts, at the house 
of Captain Calfaun, which was considered by the Arabs the highes-t 
honor the Sultan could confer on any individual. As another mark 
of *' His Highness' " favor, the table of Mr. Roberts was supplied 
from the palace, with the best the city afforded. 

Though not in chronological order, I will state, at this tim-e, ano- 
ther instance of the munificent kindness of this Arab prince. When 
the guns were thrown overboard, a buoy was attached to each, with 
a view to recovering them; but when we anchored in six fathoms 
water, the guns were at least ten miles from us; and our boats were 
not sufficient to weigh them very readily, particularly in the face of 
a swarm of pirates, from whom we could expect little forbearance, 
and therefore they were abandoned. The Sultan, however, had de- 
cided that we should not lose them. He had them weighed^ and sent 



them to us at Bombay, where they were received, with the following 
letter, brought by a captain in the navy, after we had obtained others, 
from the stores of the Honorable East India Company. 

Muscat, November 6th, 1835. 
From Syed Syeed bin Sultan, 

To Commodore E. P. Kennedy. 
Sir, 

My much esteemed friend, — I hope the Almighty God will pre- 
serve you, and keep you in good health and prosperity. 

I send you this letter to inquire after your health, prosperity, and 
so forth. 

The vessel which we sent to the spot where the United States ship 
Peacock grounded, has returned this day, and brought eleven guns 
and ten broken spars. The anchors and chain cables, as soon as we 
can get them, we shall send to you. 

We have shipped on board of the grab called the Lord Castle- 
reigh, eleven guns, to be delivered to you 5 the freight has been paid 
here by me^ please to receive them. We deem it unnecessary to 
send the spars, as they are of no use. 

Written by me. His Gracious Highness' most loyal subject, 

Seid bin CALFAim. 

By order of His Highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan. 



The following letter from Commodore Kennedy was written to 
His Highness, in reply, to express our grateful sense of his kindness. 



To his Highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, 
Sultan of Muscat. 

May it please your Highness; — I have the honor to acknowledge 
the receipt, by the Bagelah, of the eleven lost guns of the Peacock, 
owing to the untiring and indefatigable exertions of your Highness. 

I shall not fail to make known to my government, the heavy debt 
of gratitude previously incurred to your Highness, for the truly 
friendly and prompt measures which were adopted, when it was 
made known by Mr. Roberts that the Peacock was stranded, and in 
great distress, near the island of Mazeira. 
9 



66 

My country can never forget the numerous acts of kindness re- 
ceived at your Highness' hands, and which were marked by a prompt- 
ness which deserves the just admiration of the world. 

Your Highness will please accept the homage, respect, and grati- 
tude which every officer and man on board the Peacock personally 
feels for your Highness' never-ending exertions in rendering so many 
prompt, and more than friendly, acts, for our benefit; and no one 
can more sensibly feel it than the undersigned, who has the honor to 
subscribe himself, with the highest considerations of esteem, respect, 
and gratitude. 

Your Highness' most obedient, 
and humble servant, 

Edmund P. Kennedy, 
>■ Commanding the naval forces of 

the U. S. on the East India 
and Asiatic station. 
U. S. Flag Ship Peacock, Bombay Harbor, Dec. 1st, 18S5. 

P. S. Your Highness' letter, by the Bagelah, which brought the 
guns, has been received; in which your Highness signifies your inten- 
tion of recovering, if possible, the chain cables left by the Peacock 
at Mazeira. I entreat your Highness, that if, by your Highness' 
continued generous exertions, they should be found, you will not 
take the trouble to send them to Bombay, as I will have sailed hence 
before they can arrive; but I beg that your Highness will cause them 
to be put to use in any manner in which they may be serviceable, 
until they shall be called for. 

Respectfully, 

E. P. K. 



APPEARANCE OF MUSCAT—CLIMATE. ^7 



CHAPTER VIL 

SKETCHES IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT, 

October, 1835. 

As we drew near to Muscat, sailing close to the high rocky shore, 
the first indication of the place which presented itself to view, was 
a strong castle with towers, perched on one of the heights. We en- 
tered the cove, which is small and shut in by rocks of granite, from 
one to three hundred feet high, running in ridges, composed of nume- 
rous conical peaks, the whole resembling tliose diagrams, which, in 
books of geography, serve to represent the comparative elevations of 
the different mountains of the earth. These peaks are every where 
crowned with small castles, or watch towers, which not only com- 
mand the harbor, but the city itself, which is almost hidden from the 
anchorage, in a sort of rocky nook, the Sultan's palace, a plain three 
story mansion, and the custom house being the only buildings visible 
from the shipping. The dark side of the rugged granite is unrelieved 
by a single spot of green, all is barren, and offers a thousand op- 
posing surfaces and points, which, by reflecting the sun's rays, make 
this one of the hottest places in the world. In the months of January 
and February, the thermometer ranges at about 50° F., but in July 
and August, it fluctuates between 90° and 115°. When we com- 
plained of the heat, (91° F.) they told us, they considered it cool wea- 
ther; and, indeed, most of the Arab gentlemen wore upper garments 
of broad cloth. 

In June, 1821, when the cholera carried off 10,000 of the Sultan's 
subjects, the heat was almost insupportable, and the wind was like 
a flame of fire. At midnight, the thermometer stood at 104°. "On 
the forecastle of the Kent, the heat w^as so intense, that the tube of 
a thermometer, graduated only to 122°, was completely filled by the 
expansion of the mercury," and we may therefore, conclude, as Ma- 



68 COVE OF MUSCAT. 

jor Downing certainly would have done, that had the thermometer 
been longer, it would have been hotter.* 

The harbor is formed by a small island, consisting of a huge mass 
of granite two hundred feet high, situated so near the main as to only 
allow the passage of small vessels. The Peacock was anchored in 
front of the opening thus formed, for the sake of the sea breeze, which 
usually sets through it into the cove. 

In the harbor were several Arabian ships of war, and numerous 
merchant daus, which are actively engaged in trade between this port, 
and various parts of the Persian gulf and the Indian ocean. The first 
view is wildly picturesque; the numerous forts remind us of the suc- 
cess which crowned the Portuguese arms in the East, under Albu- 
querque and his immediate successors, and the numerous canoes ply- 
ing between the shipping and the shore, tell us that Muscat is still 
a place of active commerce. Canoes were seen, propelled by two 
Arabs, one in the bow and the other at the stern, with a dozen pas- 
sengers packed in the bottom, one in front of another, and all facing 
the same way, their turbaned heads and shoulders appearing between 
the gunwale and a long narrow awning. Towards evening, the fish- 
ermen were often seen returning frdm their day's toil to the cove; 
while one man steered the canoe, another stood erect in the bow, hold- 
ing his outstretched turban between his feet and hands, thus convert- 
ing it into a bellying sail, and the light bark fled briskly before the 
wind. When the moon rose, the scene wore a romantic aspect. The 
sentinels, at the watch towers and at the castle turrets, cried the 
^* all's well" to each other, every half hour; and, occasionally, the 
voices of boatmen broke the silence of niaht, sindno; in cadence to 
the dip of the oar. 

We had scarcely anchored before our decks were crowded with 
visiters; some came through motives of curiosity; others for the sake 
of profit, by supplying our necessities; but many came only to con- 
gratulate us on our narrow escape from shipwreck, assuring us at the 
same time that of a great number of vessels which had been stranded 
at Mazeira, the Peacock was the only one they had known to get 
off. 

At four o'clock, P. M., the day after our arrival, all those officers 
whose duty permitted them to leave the ship, accompanied Commo- 
dore Kennedy and Mr. Roberts, to visit the Sultan. We landed at 
the embouchement of a short canal which empties into the cove, a few 

* Asiatic Journal, for 1822. 



AUDIENCE WITH THE SULTAN. G9 

hundred yards to the right of the palace, at the loot of a lofty rock, 
crowned by a fort. The landing place was thronged with Arabs, to 
see the novel sight of twenty American officers, in full health, and 
high spirits, contrasting strangely with their own tawny, meager looks. 
We walked to the house of Captain Calfaun, and thence proceeding 
through the narrow crowded streets, entered the palace from the ba- 
zaar. We passed through a small open court, and were received by 
a well-dressed guard of about twenty Sepoys, who presented arms as 
the Commodore passed them. The Ouali, or governor of Muscat, 
who was at this point, now conducted us out to the veranda, or di- 
van, where we were met by the Sultan, and his eldest and third sons. 
As Captain Calfaun named us in order, he shook each one by the 
hand, and motioned us to a seat. We remained standing, in two 
lines, on opposite sides of the divan, until His Highness reached his 
chair, at the upper end of the apartment. Captain Calfaun stood on 
the Sultan's left, during the whole interview. The princes, and other 
Arabians present, left their sandals at the threshold, and walked to 
their respective places barefoot. 

The divan, which, overlooking the sea, has the advantage of being 
airy, is about fifteen feet wide, and thirty long. It was furnished 
with fine Persian rugs and Chinese chairs. Here His Highness usu- 
ally administers justice, and receives foreign and state visiters. 

The Sultan wore a high turban of cotton, finely checked, blue and 
white, and a black cloth mantle, with large straight sleeves, bound 
round the neck with a slender silk cord, of red and white, which ter- 
minated in tassels. Beneath the mantle were a white tunic and gir- 
dle. In his hand he carried a large sabre, in a black scabbard, mount- 
ed in gold| and the only ornament was a large ruby, set in silver, 
v/hich he wore on the little finger of the left hand. His feet and legs 
were bare, having left his sandals at the threshold. This costume set 
off his fine figure and manly countenance. Compared with the Arabs 
generally, his head, and indeed his whole person, are remarkably 
large. He has a large mouth, filled with fine teeth; he wears his 
white mustache clipped close, which runs in a line to join his whis- 
kers, which are gray, but his beard is perfectly black. He is about 
fifty years of age, and his manners are polished and graceful. 

He congratulated us on our escape from shipwreck, and asked how 
much the ship leaked, and inquired for several officers who were 
in the Peacock on her first visit. He offered to supply us with guns 
and cables from his own ships, to replace those we had lost. Speak- 
ing of the Bedouin Arabs, he remarked, that they were a lawless and 



/t» THE SULTAN'S STUD POSITION OF MUSCAT. 

warlike people, without possessions, the richest of them owning per- 
haps a date tree or two, who wandered over the country bearing 
their tents with them. They are naturally robbers, and are very 
expert in the use of arms. A Bedouin, with no other weapon than a 
sword, will bury himself up to the armpits in the ground, and, under 
these very disadvantageous circumstances, keep off as many men, 
armed with spears, as may choose to attack him in front. 

He inquired about the state of parties in France, and observed 
that the French would never have a king equal to Napoleon. 

He told us that his third son was to be married on the following 

Friday, and said that Arab boys generally married between the age 

of twelve and fifteen years, and he thought it best they should marry 

young. 

Coffee was served, in small China cups, which held less than a 

wine-glassfull^ it was thick, very strong and fragrant, and sweetened 
with sugar candy. The servants were dressed in white, with tur- 
bans like that of the Sultan, except they were not so high, and in 
their girdles, which were of cloth of gold, they wore khungers 
with richly ornamented hilts. After coffee, sherbet was handed in 
finely cut glass goblets. 

The audience lasted about fifteen minutes. On taking leave, His 
Highness said he would be happy to render any assistance to the 
ship, to any individual on board, and, indeed, to any individual be- 
longing to the United States. 

Before returning on board, we visited the Sultan's stud. We saw 
twenty-nine horses, worth from one to two thousand dollars eachj 
they were tethered on a short strip of beach, between high rocks, and 
overlooked by a castle in which the treasures of His Highness are 
said to be kept. Only two of these animals were remarkable for 
beauty; the rest were not worthy of particular notice. The great 
attention paid by the Arabs to the breed and genealogy of their 
horses, is too well known to require remark. 

The city of Muscat is situated in 23° 45' north latitude, and 58° 
41' east longitude. It lies embosomed amongst rocks, and is se- 
cured on all sides by substantial walls, but without ditches. Its 
population is not less than twenty thousand, including Arabs, Ban- 
yans, and a few Persian merchants, but there is neither a European 
or Christian resident in the place. It is now the capital of the pro- 
vince of Aman or Oman, which name Moore has rendered familiar 
to most English ears; but 1 doubt whether a visit to this place would 
tH,i have stifled the inspiration of (he poet and deprived the world of 



THE BAZAAR BARBERS. 71 

the splendid tale of Lalla Rookh. Rostak was formerly the capital, 
and is now spoken of by the Arabs in terms of high praise. 

In the year 1508 the Portuguese, under the celebrated Albu- 
querque, made themselves masters of Muscat, and retained posses- 
sion of it until 1650, when they were forcibly ejected by the Arabs. 
While in the possession of the Portuguese, they built most of the nu- 
merous forts and watch towers, which we now see, to secure them- 
selves against the frequent attacks made by neighboring princes to 
dislodge them. Two buildings were pointed out to us which had 
been Portuguese churches: one of them was used as a storehouse, and 
the other was for many years the residence of the governor. 

The city is irregularly laid out, and, with two or three striking 
exceptions, the houses are but mean edifices. They all have flat 
roofs. The streets are narrow, and are, at all times, thronged with 
people, who are seldom seen without a khunger in the girdle, or a 
two-edged sword, suspended from the left shoulder, and a round 
shield, of rhinoceros hide at the back. But arms seem to be worn as 
much for ornament as use, and we must not infer from this fashion 
that bloody brawls are common. The bazaar, which includes the 
greater part of the town, consists of narrow filthy lanes, having stalls 
of earth raised above the common foot-way, filled with a great 
variety of wares. Mats are stretched over the streets or lanes from 
the tops of the houses, to shelter the merchants and their goods from 
sun or rain. At the stalls are displayed baskets of grain, parched 
corn, pepper, senna leaves, cloves, and dried rose buds^ coarse cot- 
ton, glass beads, glass bracelets, bangles and sticks or pencils of 
antimony, used for shading ladies' eyelids | to say nothing of great 
piles of * holwah,' and other sweetmeats, all of which variety is some- 
times found in the shop of one merchant. Here sit the Banyans 
amidst their wares, distinguished by their high red turbans, sleek 
skins and demure countenances, selling to the lordly Arab of the 
desert, who deports himself towards them like a monarch towards 
his slaves. At this time, great numbers of Bedouins were in town, 
sauntering about with matchlocks over their shoulders, their flashing 
dark eyes arrested by every thing that appeared worthy of atten- 
tion. These Bedouins, in spite of their dark skins, and darker cha- 
racters, are the handsomest race of men I have ever seen. 

Just at the entrance of the bazaar is a low shed, occupied by bar- 
bers. It is curious to witness them shaving, without lather of any 
kind, the heads submitted to their tonsure^ or, with tweezers, dex- 
terously plucking out the straggling hairs which mar the outline of 
the beard or mustache. 



72 sailor's account of muscat — ladies' costume. 

Blind beggars are numerous in the streets, and, in spite of the re- 
commendation in the Koran to give alms, and the declaration which 
Mohammed is said to have made, 'Uhat whoever pays not his legaJ 
contribution of alms duly, shall have a serpent twisted about his 
neck at the resurrection,"* they receive but little, and are left in a 
most pitiable condition. They sit on the ground, with a hand ex- 
tended, while the other is pressed across the breast, beseeching cha-^ 
rity, in most lugubrious tones. I asked a sailor, who belonged to 
the boat which was sent from Mazeira to Muscat, what sort of a 
place the city was. *' I hardly know, sir," he replied; "it is all 
what they call a bazaar, and a dirty hole it is; and the people seem 
to be dying like rotten sheep." 

*' What seems to be the matter?" 

** I don't know; but they are sitting about in the dirt, and groan- 
ing as if they were in great pain." 

"What did you think was the cause of their groaning?" 

" I don't know; but they looked as if they were starving to death." 
And I thought, when I encountered the beggars. Jack's description 
was very well borne out by the facts. 

Females are occasionally seen in the streets, but always carefully 
concealed in flowing robes, and their faces, in obedience to the pre- 
cepts of the Koran, are hid by veils, or rather dominos, which are 
often secured behind the head by a silver chain. Their costume 
consists of a sort of silk gauze, generally yellow, made in the form 
of a loose robe, worn over pantalettes, which set close at the ankles, 
which are ornamented, as among Jewish females of old, with ban- 
gles of silver, or metal resembling it. The feet are cased in stock- 
ings and slippers of some gay color, or they are bare, with a number 
of rings on the toes. The breast is protected by a spencer or jacket, 
with short sleeves, which are tastefully bespangled and tinselled. 
The silk robe is worn over the head, after the fashion of the man- 
tilla in Spain. 

Ladies visit a good deal amongst themselves, but no males, except 
certain relatives,! are admitted into their society. " Women," said 
an Arab gentleman to me one evening; " Women spend their whole 
time in perfuming, dressing, and decorating themselves. They are 

* Sale's Koran. 

f The Koran commands women not to show their chamis to any persons, ex- 
cept "to their husbands, or their fathers, or their husband's fathers, or their 
sons, or their husband's sons, or their brothers, or their brother's sons, or their 
women, or their captives^ which their right hands shall possess, or unto such 



CHARACTER OF ARABIAN LADIES — -MARRIAGE. 73 

fond of dress, and are generally very expensive creatures. A gen- 
tleman's wife must have at least four Cashniere shawls, a green, a 
blue, a red, and a v/hite; then she must have a ruby or a diamond ring 
for every toe, as well as for every finger, and few wives have not 
from two to seven thousand dollars' worth of jewelry to wear on par- 
ticular occasions. Then they are so jealous, there is no living. Our 
law allows us four wives, and as many concubines as one pleases; 
and it is necessary to have some as servants to your wife. For that 
reason, every gentleman has three or four Circassian or Abyssinian 
slaves, who soon become as jealous as the wife herself, if they do not 
enjoy a reasonable share of their master's attention, which they 
usually seek with great assiduity, because if they have issue, they are 
free, for no man is willing that his oifspring should be considered 
slaves, which they must be, if the niother remain in a state of bond- 
age. Indeed, in my own house, they sometimes get into such quar- 
rels, that I am obliged to absent myself for days from the whole of 
them." 

" When a man marries," continued the gentleman, "he does not 
see his destined bride until after the marriage ceremony has been 
performed I but, to gain some knowledge of the lady, he depends 
upon the report of some old woman, generally a servant in his family, 
whom he sends to make her observations. In this way, he gets a 
pretty good description of the lady's personal charms, and he must 
trust to luck for the rest. If satisfied with the report, he then makes 
proposals, through a priest, who asks the lady whether she is willing 
to take such an individual for a husband, and on gaining her consent, 
the father is informed of it, but he, as well as all her male relations, 
are careful to absent themselves at the time of the wedding." 

Though so carefully secluded, intrigue and faithlessness amongst 
women is very rare, because the disgrace attached to the crime, ex- 
tends not only to her immediate family, but also to the whole tribe 
to which she may belong. Another check is that the husband can 
put away his wife, at any moment, by saying simply, I " divorce you;'^ 
— ^* and terrible are these words in the ears of a woman | ' — after 
which they are no longer man and wife; he gives her the property 

men as attend them, and have no need of women, or unto children, who distin- 
guish not the nakedness of women." " Uncles not being here particularly men- 
tioned, it is a doubt whether they may be permitted to see their nieces. Some 
think they are included under the appellation of brothers,- but others are of 
opinion they are not comprised in this exception; and give this reason for it, viz: 
lest they should describe the persons of their nieces to their sons." — Sale's Keran^ 
10 



74 GAFFES WELLS. 

she may claim as her own, and sends her back to her father's house* 
After that, he cannot again see her face, unless the marriage cere- 
mony be again performed. In this way, a man may separate from 
his wife three times, but cannot marry her a fourth time, until after 
she has been the wife of another. " Ye may divorce your wives 
twice: and then either retain them with humanity, or dismiss them, 
with kindness." " But if the husband divorce her a third time, she 
shall not be lawful for him again, until she marry another husband."* 
Beyond the city gates, there is a very considerable population, 
living in huts, constructed of reeds and mats. Here, too, we found 
two or three cqffes of rude character. They may be compared to 
cages; the walls are made of stout reeds, or split bamboo, lashed to- 
gether crosswise, and the roofs are thatched with palm leaves. The 
furniture and fixtures consist of wooden forms for the guests to 
lounge upon, while they smoke a sort of pipe, called a hubble-bubble, 
in which the smoke is drawn through water, and a stone counter, 
behind which the host is always seen in attendance, either making or 
dispensing coffee which is served very hot, in small bowls, without 
cream or sugar. 

In this suburb there are a few scanty gardens, whose existence 
depends upon irrigation from wells, which is effected with very con- 
siderable labor. A derick, or shears, composed of three pieces of 
timber, is erected over the well; at the top is a pulley or block, and 
to one end of the rope, leading through it, is attached a leathern bag, 
and the other is secured to a yoke on the neck of an ox. To enable 
the animal to apply his force more effectually, an inclined plain is 
cut from the top of the well, descending sufficiently deep into the 
earth to ensure that the descent of the ox will raise the leathern bag 
to the top of the well; on reaching that point, it is so contrived that 
the bag empties itself into a sort of reservoir, whence it is distributed 

* Sale's Koran. 

*' The Mahommetan who has thrice sworn to divorce his wife, religion pun- 
ishes by not all'jwing him to take her again till she has shared tlie bed of another 
man. The faulty person, who is tlius unpleasantly circumstanced, endeavours to 
elude the law. He chooses a friend on whose discretion he can reckon; shuts 
him up with his wife in presence of witnesses, and trembling-ly awaits the result. 
The trial is a dangerous one. If, wlien he quits the room, the obliging friend 
declares that he divorces her, the first husband has a right to resume her; but 
if, having forgotten friendship in the arms of love, he should say that lie ac- 
knowledges her as his wife, he takes her away with him, and tlie marriage Is 
valid." — Savary in Sale's Koran. 



MOUTRAH FISH — HOLWAH. /3 

by conduits. A slave attends to drive the animal up hill again, to 
the top of the well, and the bag descends and is filled; this toil is 
continued all day long. 

The wells about Muscat were originally dug at the expense of in- 
dividuals, and by them bequeathed to the public. The Sultan sup- 
plies an ox and a slave for each, and those who use the water pay a 
tax in grain. Water supplied to ships is carried from the well to 
the boats in skins, which are there emptied into the casks. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



SKETCHES IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT, 

Oduler, 1835. 

Not far from Muscat, to the nortiuvaid and westward, there are 
several towns built on the shore, in sight of each other. They are 
called Calboo, Douha, Ryam, Small Moutrah, Moutrah, Arbach, and 
Showtyfe. One day, during our stay at this port, we visited Mou- 
trah, which is the largest. It contains 18,000 inhabitants, and, in 
appearance, is quite as large as Muscat, from which it is distant two 
miles. It is situated on a deep bay, and is built on a sandy plain, and 
has no more vegetation in its vicinity than Muscat itself. 

Our guide, Mehamet, led us directly to the bazaar, which, as in 
Muscat, occupies the principal thoroughfares, where we saw several 
Banyans weighing a diminutive dried fish, about two inches long, and 
packing them in bales for exportation. This species of fish literally 
fills the waters of Oman. They sometimes appeared in dense strata 
about the ship, so thick as to completely hide the cable from view, 
which was distinctly seen when they were not present. In one place 
they were making *holwah,' in great copper pans, in which the ma- 
terials were stirred with sticks, as they boiled, by naked Arabs, who 
were sweating profusely over their toil. ' Holwah ' is a very favorite 
sweetmeat, constituted of sugar, almonds and butter or ghee, pro- 



7^ APOTHECARY BANYAN WOMAN PELOCHES. 

perly mingled; but we found it far from agreeable. The articles ex- 
posed in the bazaar for sale, were similar to those seen in Muscat; 
beads, bracelets, cottons, sticks of antimony, (the sulphuret) rose- 
buds, sandals, senna leaves, &c. At several stalls, the only store- 
room was a large chest, set fast in masonry. Here we saw se- 
veral Beloches, burnishing sword blades, which they held fast upon 
the ground with their feet, while they rubbed them with burnishers. 
Parched corn, used as a sort of frosting for sweetmeats, was pre- 
paring, by toasting it with sand, in a copper pan over the fire, and 
then separating them with a sieve. Here sat, amongst his drugs, a 
long, skinny-fingered apothecary, 

" Famine In his clieeks: 
Need and oppression staring- in his eyes: 
Contempt and beg-g-ary hanging on his back"-— 

here he squatted, with herbs and simples spread on the ground, weigh- 
ing out the quantities of a written prescription, upon which, from 
time to time, he cast his eyes as he slowly proceeded. Not far from 
him, was an old Arab, leaning on a staff; his beard swept upon his 
breast, and naturally was silvery gray, but was now dyed a bright 
yellow; nor was it as unsightly as one would suppose. Negro wor 
men ape the customs of their lighter colored mistresses, and screen 
their sooty countenances behind black dominos, little suspecting their 
peculiar laugh, all hearty as it is, is enough to betray their complex- 
ion. 

The only Banj^an woman I saw, wt.s dressed in a mantle of yellow 
silk, pantalettes of white and blue stripe, gathered full at the ankle, 
over which was a pink frock, extending from the neck below the knee, 
and without cincture. A gold chain, or rather collar of broad links, 
encircled the neck; and, besides several gold chains over tlie neck, 
and ear-rings, she wore, through one side of the nose, a gold ring, not 
less than two and a half inches in diameter: it had a broad plate on 
one side of it, and, to keep it out of the way of the mouth, it was 
looped up by a thread, which passed over tlie forehead. 

Followed by a crowd, we walked through the bazaar, and entered 
a town, which is walled in within the precincts of Moutrah, and in- 
habited by a tribe from Sinde, who profess the Mohammedan faith, 
but live entirely separate from the Arabs. They are named Beloches, 
and in the estimation of the other followers of the Islamic religion, 
stand next to the Banyans, who are amongst the most degraded peo- 
ple in the East. The meanest Arab would not give his daughter in 



BELOCHE TOWN — WEAVING BELOCIIE HUT. 77 

marriage to a Beloche, no matter how worthy: such an act would be 
sufficient to eject him from his tribe, and send him forlli an outcast 
upon- the world. The Beloches are industrious, and have some skill 
in the humbler branches of the mechanical arts. Their number, in 
Moutrah, is estimated at 2000. They are without a chief, and are 
subject, equally with the Arab inhabitmts, to the Ouali of Moutrah. 

The only gate of the Beloche town opens upon the beach, and shuts, 
in an arid plain of about lialf a mile square, which is bounded in 
the rear by bleak and barren rocks. The huts are constructed of 
palm leaves, and are arranged without regard to order. None of 
them is more than ten feet highj some have round, and some have 
conical roofs, and all are enclosed in small yards, the fences of which 
are also of palm, leaves. In one corner of the town, stands a small 
white mosque, with two small turrets in fronts and near it is a grave- 
yard, filled with white tombs and the humbler graves of the poor, 
marked by fragments of coral, sprinkled over them. 

The sun was pouring his meridian rays upon the white earthy no 
one was abroad, save two or three boys, who were drawing water for 
a half dozen camels, which, they told us, belonged to the Sultan j the 
profound stillness was only broken by the occasional sound of the wea- 
ver's shuttle, not very actively plied. 

The loom is of very rude fabric, and the warp, instead of being \\i 
a frame or upon a roller, was stretched along the ground, and secured 
by the M^eight of two or three stones. The weaver, with only a band 
of cotton about his loins, sat in a hole hollowed in the ground, deep 
enough to bring him in a position convenient to the loom. His hut 
had a flat roof, with tv/o walls, one behind him, and the other on his 
side, between him and the sun. This contrivance for weaving re- 
minded us of the descriptions of the looms used by the ancient Jews. 

Mehamet led us into a Beloche hut, to procure fur us a drink of 
water. We found the interior very clean and lined with mats. At 
one end of the apartment was a mat, stretched on a square frame, 
elevated above the ground so as to fulfil the office of a sofa. An el- 
derly woman, who sat upon the floor, in a silk frock and mantle, 
smoking a hubble-bubble, very courteously motioned us to the seat, and 
quickly brought us a China bowl of cool water. In a moment after, 
a young woman entered, leaving her wooden sandals on the threshold; 
they were kept on the feet by a small peg or button, that stood perpen- 
dicularly between the great toe and the one next to it. She wore a do- 
mino, a black mantle over the head, a pink silk frock, with long loose 
.sleeves, over striped pantalettes, and her feet were stained with hena. 



78 LAWATIAS — HALIL BIN HAMMET. 

She wore several gold ornaments on the neck^ five silver bracelets on 
each arm^ two silver rings on each thumb, and one on each fore and 
little finger. In a few minutes she removed her domino, which was 
black, bordered Vv'ith tinsel, and discovered a ring through her nose, 
with a long pendant reposing on the nether lip. Had it not been for 
this savage ornament, and the dark stain of antimonj on the lower 
eyelid, which gave her countenance a sleepy expression, her face 
might have been thought comely, in spite of its dark complexion. 

In the same town of Moutrah, there is still another small town en- 
closed, which is inhabited by a tribe called Lawatias, who do not 
admit even the Arabs to pass their gate; "because," said Captain 
Caifaun, " their wives and daughters go unmasked." They are es- 
timated to be a thousand in number. 

Amongst the numerous Arabs who daily visited the ship, was 
Halil bin Hammet, son of the late governor of Zanzibar. Halil is 
about fourteen years of age, and is looked on as a youth of very wild 
and eccentric habits. He was usually accompanied by two hand- 
some Bedouin soldiers, whom he appeared to have attached to him- 
self, either by kind treatment or generosity. Halil generally dressed 
in white, with a girdle of cloth of gold, beneath which w^as a leathern 
belt, filled with beautifully chased silver chargers, each having a 
stopper secured by a chain of the same metal. He wore a turban 
that showed him to belong to the tribe of the Sultan, and his khun- 
ger was richly ornamented with gold. In these chargers he had 
some very coarse gunpowder; but getting a sight of some of excel- 
lent quality, he importuned every officer for " barouta " — gun- 
powder, and when he obtained any, he emptied a charger into a paper 
to receive that which was presented to him. He ran from one part 
of the ship to another, examining every thing, but was much more 
interested by viewing various kinds of arms, than any thing else. 
He visited us daily, and managed at each visit to get three or four 
of his chargers filled with gunpowder, his first attempt to obtain it, 
was by demanding, and when a small quantity was offered, he re- 
fused it with great indignation. Finding, however, this plan unsuc- 
cessful, he assumed an humble manner, and petitioned for " barouta," 
in most courteous and winning tones. To all appearance, he freely 
parted with his khunger, but asked for it when about going away; 
yet he sold his turban off his head, to a gentleman on board, and sup- 
plied its place on the spot with his girdle. 

Amongst various articles brought on board for sale, were khun- 
gers, and swords, some of which were of Persian manufacture, but 



BANQUET AT THE PALACE OF THE SULTAN. 79 

most of them were made in England for this market. The attar of 
roses, and of jasmine flowers, were brought off in considerable quan- 
tities-, but neither of them is manufactured in Arabia^ thej are brouglit 
from Constantinople, both bj way of the Red Sea, and over land to 
Persia, and down the Euphrates, and thus find their way to all parts 
of India, being articles much used by the wealthy every where in 
the East. 

The officers were invited to dine with the Sultan, on the second of 
October. At four o'clock P. M. the Ouali, with Captain Calfaun, 
came on board, in three boats, each manned by from eight to twelve 
Lascars^ — sailors, from the coast of Malabar — and carried Commodore 
Kennedy, Captain Stribling, Mr. Roberts;, and a large number of the 
officers, on shore, and conducted them to the palace. We entered a 
part of the building, still unfinished, and passing through a small 
court, in the centre of which was a lime tree — -every green leaf is re- 
markable in this sun-scorched capital— ascended flights of wooden 
stairs, which terminated in an open court, on the third floor. Here 
we were met by the Sultan and his two sons, arrayed as we had first 
seen them; and each of them shaking us individually by the hand, 
we entered an unfurnished hall or anteroom, which opened upon the 
court. Numerous servants, dressed in white, wearing richly mounted 
khungers, in their girdles of cloth of gold, were on either hand, 
standing respectfully, without their sandals. They saluted us with 
the graceful Arab salam, as we passed into the dining hall. 

This apartment is plain in its appearance. The walls have several 
flat recesses a foot deep, crossed by shelves, on v/hich were placed a 
variety of cut glass, and French porcelain. At the upper end of 
the room, hung prints of the naval engagements between the U. S, 
Ship Constitution, and H. B, M. Ship Guerriere, and between 
the U. S. Ship United States, and H. B. M. Ship Macedonian. 
Several mirrors, and prints were suspended upon the side walls. 
,The floor was covered with Persian rugs. The dinner was already 
spread before us, upon three tables, which were not uniform, either in 
height or dimensions, and therefore joined badly; shawls of camel's 
hair served as table cloths, and the whole decoration was befitting a 
ball supper. 

So soon as we had assembled near the table. His Highness 
stated, that on such occasions as the present, it was not his custom 
to sit at table, but to retire and leave his guests to unrestrained en- 
joyment; nevertheless, if it were our desire, he would conform to 
our fashion. Mr. Roberts replied, that it was not our wish to break 



80 DESCRIPTION OF ARAB FEAST. 

through any of the usages of our Arab friends, and though His 
Highness were absent, we should not forget him. The Sultan then 
salamed and withdrew. We took our seats, and the Ouali and Cap- 
tain Calfaun joined the servants in waiting, apparently emulous to ex- 
ceed them in polite attention, and the duties of their place. 

The dinner was served on white porcelain, and the knives and 
forks were from our own messes on board, the Arabs seldom re- 
quiring any other instruments than their fingers, wherewith to de- 
spatch their food. The repast spread before us, which was cold, and 
sufficient in quantity for two hiindred Englishmen, who are the great 
eaters in this world, (see. Captain Basil Hall's account of the enor- 
mous breakfast eaten by himself aX the City Hotel, New York,) con- 
sisted of two sheep, stuffed with dates, prunes, and cajoo nuts, and 
roasted wholej fowls, dressed and cooked in a similar manner^ joints 
of roast meatj several kinds of sweetmeats; rice, dressed with sugar 
and turmeric, resembling curry in appearance; lozenge-shape cakes, 
an inch thick, made of milk and rice, some white, some yellow, 
sweet cakes or bread, an inch thick, and of the size of a plate; man- 
goes, from Barhein; grapes; custard apples, {annona squamosa,) &c. 
Different sorts of sherbet, lemonade, and new milk, were the only 
fluids upon the table. All these good things were so crowded and 
mingled together, that it required considerable tact to safely extri- 
cate a selected dish from amongst its many neighbors. It was truly 
a temperance feast, and most things were very much to our taste and 
satisfaction. 

" Steward and squire, with heedful haste, 
Marshall'd the rank of every g-uest; 
Pages, with ready blade were there, 
The mighty meal to carve and share." 

At the close of the banquet, coffee was served in China cups, sup- 
ported in stands of cut glass, each stand holding three cups. After 
this, Captain Calftiun and a slave took the handkerchief of each 
guest, and poured upon it a plentiful supply of attar of roses. They 
were followed by a slave, bearing a golden arrosoir, in the shape of 
a Florence flask, having a long neck and perforated extremity, like 
that of a watering pot, with which he dashed a quantity of rose wa- 
ter where the attar had been poured. This done, the Sultan entered, 
and remarked that we had partaken so sparingly of the feast that he 
thought it would be well to send the remains of it on board ship. 

We took leave of His Highness and the two princes, at the 



DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT. 81 

head of the stairs, arnl were accompanied to the boats bj the governor 
and Captain Calfaun. 

On Monday, the 5th of October, His Highness, accompanied 
by one of his sons and Captain Calfaun, visited the ship. He was 
received with a salute of twenty-one guns, and manned yards; and 
on his taking leave, which he did at the end of a half hour, the same 
ceremony was repeated. On landing, he requested Lieutenant C. 
C» Turner, who commanded the boat which carried the Sultan on 
shore, to wait a few minutes, that he might send him a present from, 
the palace. Mr. Turner expressed his acknowledgments for the 
Sultan's proffered kindness, and at the same time explained to him 
that the constitutional law of our country forbade all its officers to 
receive presents from any sovereign or prince. 



CHAPTER IX. 



SKETCHES IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT. 

October, 1835. 

The dominions of the Sultan of Muscat are not very clearly de- 
fined, though they are of very considerable extent. On the coast of 
Africa, he claims all the coast, and circumjacent islands, from Cape 
Delgado, situated in ten degrees of south latitude, to Cape Guar- 
dafui, in eleven degrees and fifty minutes north. In this range 
we find the ports of Monghow, or Mongalow, Lyndy, Mombassa, 
Quiloa, Melinda, Lamo, Patta, Brava, Mokdesha, or Magadosh, (the 
Magadoxa of the Portuguese,) and the islands of Mafeea, or Mowfea, 
Zanzibar, Pemba, Socotra, &c. At a very early period, a tribe of 
Arabs, called Ammozzadi, meaning subjects of Zayde, migrated from 
the neighborhood of Barhein, in the Persian gulf, and soon afterwards 
built Mokdesha and Brava, of which settlements the former was the 
metropolis. The first Arab settlers separated, and a part of them 
mixing with the CafFres, became Bedouins. Those who remained at 
Makdeshd were the first who enjoyed the profits of the gold mines of 
11 



82 PEARl.b OF BAUHEIN. 

Sofala, which they acciclentallj discovered. Thence tiiey spread 
themselves to the southward, and obtained possession of Quiloa, 
Mombassa, Melinda, and, besides the islands above named, those of 
Com.oro and others. Quih)a became their chief plantation; whence 
they established other settlements, particularly on the island of 
Madagascar. 

Such is the account of the settlement of the east coast of Africa, 
given in a collection of early voyages, chiefly extracted from "Pur- 
chas' Pilgrims" and Hackluyt's collection. The first navigators 
who doubled the cape of Good Hope found that the inhabitants spoke 
Arabic, and professed the religion of Mohammed; this will account 
for the practice of circumcision, and other Moslem customs, of seve- 
ral tribes in Caffraria and Southern Africa, described by the Rev. 
S. Kay in his very interesting *' Travels and Researches in Caf- 
fraria." 

In southern and eastern Arabia, he claims, along the coast, from 
cape Aden to cape Ras el Had; thence northward as far as Busso- 
rah, in latitude 29° 30' north, all the coast and islands of the Persian 
gulf, including the pearl fishery and islands of Barhein, as far as 
Sinde, on the eastern side. All this extent of territory is not gar- 
risoned by his troops, but is considered as tributary to him. Besides, 
he rents sulphur mines in Persia, and several estates in Gambroon. 

The commercial value of these possessions, and the revenue de- 
rived from them, we have no means of ascertaining. The pearl 
fishery of Barhein was once estimated to be worth, annually, more 
than three millions of pounds sterling; but, at present, does not, pro- 
bably, yield one tenth of that sum. The fishing season lasts from 
April until October, and extends over a space of twelve or fifteen 
miles. Arabs are the only people engaged in it. 

The pearls of Barhein are not so white as those of Ceylon, or of 
Japan; but they are larger than those of the former, and of a more 
regular form than those of the latter place. Their color inclines to 
yellow, but they possess an advantage over others, in maintaining 
their lustre; while the white ones, particularly in hot climates, in the 
course of time, lose their brilliance. The shell, known as nacre, or 
mother of pearl, is applied to many purposes, in all parts of Asia. 
The pearls of irregular form and size pass to Constantinople and 
Turkey; the large ones are worn as ornaments in the hair, and the 
small ones are employed in embroidery. The perfect ones are sent 
to Surat, and all parts of Hindoostan. There is little fear of much 
diminution in their consumption or price, in the east. They are the 



COMMERCE OF MUSCAT. 83 

passion of the women, and a superstition increases the sale of this 
product of the sea. There is not an individual of them who does not 
deem it a matter of religious importance to pierce one pearl, at least, 
on the occasion of his nuptials. Let the meaning of this mysterious 
custom be what it may, amongst a people whose policy and morals 
are enveloped in allegories, and amongst whom religion itself is but 
an allegory, this emblem of virgin purity is advantageous to com- 
merce. Those pearls which have not been recently bored, are used 
in decoration 5 but they will not answer in the bridal ceremony, at 
which there is required at least one fresh pearl.* 

The exports from Muscat are, wheat, dates, horses, raisins, salted 
and dried fish, MocltU coffee, and a great variety of drugs. The pro- 
ductions of eastern Africa, the Red Sea, the south-east coast of Ara- 
bia, and the countries bordering on, and accessible from the Persian 
gulf, are generally found in the market. The articles imported in 
exchange are rice, cotton and woollen goods, iron, lead, sugar, and 
some spices. Being, from its situation, the key to the Persian Gulf, 
vessels from all its shores resort here; from this circumstance, it 
may become a place of deposit and sale of merchandise destined for 
the markets of Bussorah and Persia. Trade is carried on between 
Muscat and the Red Sea, the east coast of Africa, the Persian gulf, 
Mauritius or Isle of France, many parts of continental and insular 
India, and China; but to what extent, I have no means of ascertain- 
ing, though it is very considerable. There is here an insurance 
company, all the members of which are Banyans; and, "notwith- 
standing," said an Arab merchant to me, "that the Koran requires 
the Moslem to trust in God alone, for success in all transactions, the 
merchants of Muscat usually insure their ships and cargoes, before 
committing them to the perils of the great deep." 

The exports from the east coast of Africa, are gum copal, ivory, 
tortoise shell, rhinoceros hides and horns, bees' wax, cocoanut oil, 
ox hides, rice, millet, ghee, Colombo root, aloes, gum Arabic, and a 
variety of other drugs. It is his possessions in Africa, which give 
value to the treaty just concluded between the government of the- 
United States and the Sultan. Those countries have become an 
entrepot for American cottons, which find their way thence up the 
Red Sea and Persian gulf, and thus to the markets of Persia, where 
they are preferred over the English fabrics.! American merchant 

* Establecimientos Ultramarinos, Tom. II. Madrid, 1785. 
f Burnes' Travels in Bokhara. 



84 THE sultan's title HIS HISTORY. 

vessels are S3ldom seen in the port of Muscat, one only having an- 
chored there in the last seven years. 

The monarch of Muscat is commonly, but erroneously, spoken of 
under the title of Im&m, which is a name given to Islamic priests, 
and when applied to a prime or chief, signifies a sovereign Pontiff. 
Soon after the accession of the Sultan, the people were desirous of 
creating him Im^m, an officer whose duties include the direction and 
management of religious, as well as temporal aifiiirs; but he was too 
wise to accede to the wishes of his subjects, because it would have 
obliged him, according to the usage of the country, to lead a life of 
piety and poverty, without the power of openly enjoying his wealth. 
This I was told by Captain Calfaun, one evening at his house, when 

I met a son of the Sultan's uncle. *' That man,''' said Captain C , 

*' may wander in any part of Arabia, unarmed and without danger^ 
he has only to declare himself the son of the last Imam, and his per- 
son is sacred." This individual is the only one of the Sultan's 
tribe who has the right of wearing his turban approaching in height 
to that of His Highness; the material of which the turban is made 
distinguishes the tribe, but none, except those of a royal lineage, may 
wear it above a prescribed height. 

Syed Syeed bin Sultan, the sovereign of Muscat, is one among the 
most distinguished princes in Asia. During a long minority, the ad- 
ministration of the government was confided to an Imam, an uncle 
of the young monarch, who was unwilling to resign, when his ward 
became of age, and, in order to remove him out of his way, con- 
ducted him to a fortress near Rostak. There the young Sultan was 
informed by his friends, that the regent intended to cause his death; 
and, to frustrate this ambitious design, he one evening requested to 
see his uncle. No sooner was he in his presence than Syed Syeed 
stabbed him with his khunger. The regent, wounded as he was, 
scaled the wall, and, mounting a swift horse, fled. The friends of 
the young prince told him, his v/ork was but half done, and if his 
uncle escaped alive, his throne would be insecure. He at once 
mounted and followed his relative, whom he found stretched beneath 
a tree, unable to proceed from loss of blood. He there pinned him 
to the ground with his spear, and hastening to a neighboring strong- 
hold, knocked loudly at the gate, and called for assistance, stating 
that his uncle was dying not far oft'. Of course the regent was found 
dead. The Sultan returned to his friends, and the next day hastened 
to Muscat, and reached there before the news of the regent's death. 
He immediately summoned the captains of the fortresses, and 



CHARACTER OF THE SULTAN ARAB NAVY. 85 

when they were all present, he required that they should deliver up 
their respective commands, to such persons as he should name, 
under pain of immediate death in case of refusal. He appointed suc- 
cessors from his own tribe, and, has since observed the same policy 
in filling all offices in his government. In this manner, he obtained 
possession of the throne, in 1807, but held it as a tributary to Sa- 
houd Abdallah, the chief of the Wahabites, until 1816, who was 
that year subdued and conducted to Constantinople by the famed 
Ibrahim Pasha, and there publicly executed.* 

The Sultan is a brave warrior, as well as a pious Moslem, having 
lately made the pilgrimage to Mecca. Several years ago, when the 
government of British India was engaged in suppressing Arab pirates, 
(the Joassames) who infested the Persian gulf, he acted in alliance 
with the English.! He is the Haroun al Raschid of his time, and is 
as munificent as he is brave. Not long since, he sent a line-of-battle 
ship, called the Liverpool, to Bombay, as a present to the Honorable 
East India company; which, being declined, he sent to England, 
with his compliments, to William IV. The present was accepted, 
and a suitable gift sent in return^ and in compliment to the Sultan, 
the ship was named the Imam. 

The Arabian Navy, under a blood red flag, at present, consists of 
seventy-five vessels, (built on the coast of Malabar,) carrying from 
four to fifty-six guns each. His principal officers were educated at 
Bombay or Calcutta, and his ships are in effective discipline. 

The Sultan has two wives; the last one he wedded is a daugliter of 
the Shah of Persia, and besides these, he has not less than twenty 
concubines, from Circassia, Georgia, and Abyssinia. He has seven 
sons; but the birth of a female child not being an event to rejoice for 
amongst the Arabs, passes without notice: the number of his daugh- 
ters is therefore unknown. 

A large portion of the Sultanas time is occupied at the divan, above 
mentioned, in hearing petitions, and administering justice in crimi- 
nal cases. All litigation involving property is decided by four judges. 
There are no lawyers in the place, and the parties only advise and 
counsel with their friends. Theft is not common, but instances of 
personal quarrel are frequent, and are often decided on the spot, by 
an appeal to the khunger or sword. Murder is a capital offence, un- 
less the relatives of the deceased are willing to commute the sentence 

*The History of the Ottoman Empire by Edward Upham, Esq. M. R. S. A. 
Philadelphia, 1833. 

f Crichton's History of Arabia, In Harper's Family Libraiy, 



86 CHARACTER OF ARABIANS—SPRAYER. 

for money; in which case, Ihej usually accept of one thousand dol- 
lars. Duelling is unknown, and Captain Calfaun expressed his asto- 
nishment that such a silly custom should prevail amongst sensible or 
rational people. " If a man insult you, kill him on the spot; but do 
do not give him the opportunity to kill, as well as insult you." 

The Arabs are of small stature, and have small heads. They are 
proud, hospitable, and taciturn; nor are they ** moved with concord 
of sweet sounds," and, therefore, according to the immortal Shak- 
spear, 

" Are fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils." 

Conversation, properly so called, is not common amongst them; which 
maybe consideredasanevidenceof want of civilization. They are said 
to be cheats, and not trustworthy, by those who have dealt with them. 
It is not fair, however, to stamp the national character from what one 
sees or hears in the commercial cities of any country. Men, in all 
countries, morally lose by the constant practice of trading, particu- 
larly when it is in a small way, and are apt to make good bargains 
whenever they can; and, I suspect, it will be found, that the passions 
of man are the same all the world over, and generally swayed by his 
interests. 

A most inflexible observance of the precepts of their religion, is a 
|)rincipal feature in the character of these people; for nothing will 
prevent them from praying at the appointed hour. The officer who 
came on board of the ship, before we arrived, never omitted prayer 
at noon, and at four o'clock in the afternoon. He never hesitated to 
signify it was his hour, and, spreading out his turban on the quarter- 
deck, turned his face towards Mecca, and went through his genuflex- 
ions and prayers with the same formality that he would have observed 
in a holy temple of the Prophet. One day, he had occasion to take 
medicine, but did not swallow it, till he had muttered a prayer, which, 
in his mind at least, increased the beneficial qualities of the potion, 
and then, with a look of pious resignation, drained the dregs. 

That the important duty of praying "might not be neglected, Mo- 
hammed obliged his followers to pray five times every twenty-four 
hours, at certain stated times; viz. 1. In the morning, before sunrise: 
2. When noon is passed, and the sun begins to decline from tha me- 
ridian; 3. In the afternoon, before sunset: 4. In the evening, after 
sunset, and before the day be shut in: 5. After the day is shut in, and 
before the first watch of the night. For this institution, he pretended 
to have received the divine command, from the throne of God him- 



EDUCATION COINS. 87 

self, when he took his night journey to heaven: and the observing of 
the stated times of prayer is frequently insisted on in the Koran, 
though they be not particularly prescribed therein." It is requisite, 
while they pray, that they turn their faces towards Mecca, and for 
this reason, that quarter is marked in the mosques by a niche, or by 
the situation of the doors opening into the galleries of the steeples. 
Those who are scrupulously pious, prepare themselves for prayer, 
either in a mosque or any place that is clean, and utter a certain num- 
ber of praises or ejaculations, (which are counted on a string of beads) 
with certain postures of worship. *' The Mohammedans never address 
themselves to God in sumptuous apparel, though they are obliged to 
be decently clothed^ but lay aside their costly habits and pompous 
ornaments, if they wear any, when they approach the divine pre- 
sence, lest they should seem proud and arrogant. They do not ad- 
mit their women to pray with them in public; that sex being obliged 
to perform their devotions at home, or if they visit the mosques, it 
must be at a time when the men are not there: for the Moslems are 
of opinion that their presence inspires a ditFerent kind of devotion from 
that which is requisite in a place dedicated to the worship of God."* 

Education i& not much attended to in the Sultan's dominions| chil- 
dren generally are only taught to read and write and recite passages 
from the Koran. The wealthy send their sons to Bombay, Calcutta, 
and occasionally to Persia, for instruction. Physicians study their 
profession in the latter country, but are not considered by the Arabs 
themselves trustworthy as surgeons. In this section of the East the 
Persian language is what French is in Europe, a court language^ 
which all the educated speak. Some of those who have been edu- 
cated in British India pay considerable attention to English. I saw 
in the house of one gentleman the novels of Scott and Cooper. As 
yet, the engine of knowledge and civilization, the press, has not been 
introduced into Muscat 5 and it is to be regretted, because under the 
government of so rational a monarch as Syed Syeed bin Sultan, it would 
be a perennial fountain of blessings and benefits to his subjects. 

The coins used at Muscat are the *' Shaka" of copper, valued at 
from 72 to 80 for a dollar. The small copper " gazee " is valued at 
£0 for one "Mahomedee," which is of silver, and valued at eleven 
for the dollar. But Spanish, Persian, and most of the coins of the east^ 
are in free circulation. 

On the morning of the tenth, we waited upon His Highness to take 

* Sale's Koran; Preliminary Discourseo 



8-8 AUDIENCE OF LEAVE. 

our final leave. We found him sitting in his divan, dictating to his 
secretary, who was seated on the floor with writing materials beside 
him, using his knee for a desk. During the interview, which was 
short, the Sultan, while the interpreter was speaking, turned to the 
secretary and spoke to him as if he were continuing the dictation. 

*• As you are about to leave us. Commodore/' said His Highness, 
*' I beg you will reflect whether there may be any thing farther that 
I can do for you; if there is, you have only to name it." He farther 
asked what should be done with the guns in the event of raising 
them. He next inquired, from what date the treaty should take ef- 
fect, and Mr. Roberts begged His Highness to name the day, but he 
left it entirely to the decision of Mr. Roberts,^ who, after some hesi- 
tation, expressed his opinion that it should take effect from the day 
of its ratification by the President and Senate of the United States, 
namely, the 30th of June, 1834, more than a year past. The Sultan 
remarked, that it would then be necessary to refund a part of the du- 
ties which had been paid at Zanzibar since that time; nevertheless, 
as such was the opinion of Mr. Roberts, it should be in force from 
that date; and added, that it made no difference to him, because the 
customs at Zanzibar were farmed for $110,^000 a year to Banyans, who 
were aware, when makmg their bargain, that the treaty would take 
place, though they did not know at what time, and, therefore, had 
paid less, expecting the early ratification by the United States. This 
concession, which puts some hundreds of dollars into the pockets of 
our New England merchants, by whom the trade is chiefly carried 
on, filled the measure of the Sultan's liberality; for I believe it is not 
customary to consider the provisions of treaties binding, until after 
the exchange of their ratification by the governments between which 
they are negotiated. 

Coffee and sherbet were served, as on former occasions; and we 
took leave, deeply impressed with a sense of gratitude for the kind 
exertions made by His Highness in our behalf, when in imminent peril, 
not only of shipwreck, but, also, of slavery, and even cruel death, 
had the ship been entirely lost. We shall ever entertain a lively 
recollection of his generous, benevolent, and noble conduct towards 
us upon this, as well as on all occasions; and we most sincerely hope 
that the government of the United States will take into consideration 
the debt of gratitude we owe, and make a handsome and appropriate 
acknowledgment to ''His Gracious Highness," at an early period. 

Both Mr. Roberts and the Commodore embraced this last oppor- 
tunity of repeating our thanks to His Highness, for his many atten- 



LETTERS FROM MR. ROBERTS. 89 

tions and acts ol kindness, and we parted, filled with aduiiiation ot 
the many noble -virtues which adorn the sovereign of Muscat. 

The Governor of Muscat, Sjed bin Calfaun bin Ahamed, was pre- 
sent, and left the palace with us. We returned to the house of Cap- 
tain Calfaun, where Mr. Roberts wrote, at the request of the Sultan, 
the following letters;— 

*' To Masters and Supercargoes of American vessels at Zanzibar, 
or other ports within the dominions of His Highness, the Sultan 
of Muscat* 

Muscat, IQth October, 1835. 

*' Gentlemen! 
The commercial treaty negotiated by me, on the part of the United 
States, with His Highness Syed Syeed bin Sultan, the Sultan of 
Muscat, having been ratified and exchanged between the contracting 
parties, it is understood and agreed between His Highness and the 
United States, that the said treaty went into effect on the 30th day 
of June, 1834, being the day on which it was ratified by the Presi- 
dent and Senate of the United States. All vessels, therefore, which 
have paid any higher rate of duties than is set forth in the said treaty, 
or any charges subsequent to the said 30th day of June aforesaid, are 
entitled to be refunded by the collectors of the customs of the vari- 
ous ports of His Highness for such overcharge. 
Your obedient servant, 

Edmund Roberts, 
Special Agent from the Government 

of the United States to the 
Sultan of Muscat." 



^^ To Captain Hassan bin Ibrahim. 
Zanzibar. 

Muscat, October 10/A, 1835. 
Sir 5 
I have the pleasure to inform you that the treaty contracted be- 
tween His Highness, the Sultan of Muscat, and the government of 
the United States, went into full operation on the 30th day of June, 
1834, being the day on which it was ratified on the part of the Presi- 
dent and Senate of the United States. All vessels or merchandiscj 
therefore, which have paid, subsequently to that period, any higher 
12 



90 LETTERS FROM MR. ROBERTS. 

rate of duties, or charges, than is set forth in the said treaty, a copy 
of which is placed in your hands by th6 Sultan, will be refunded by 
the collectors of the customs for any such overcharge. I have writ- 
ten, at the request of the Sultan, a letter similar to this, addressed 
to American Masters and Supercargoes, which will be forwarded to 
Zanzibar by the first conveyance. 

Captain Hassan will please accept the good wishes of the under- 
signed for his health, happiness, and prosperity. 

Edmund Roberts." 



*' To American Masters and Supercargoes. 

Muscat, October 10, 1835. 
Gentlemen, 
His Highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, of Muscat, wishing to pre- 
vent any collision between the government of the United States and 
His Highness, has requested me to make known to all Masters and 
Supercargoes, belonging to vessels of the United States, that the 
port of Mombas, in East Africa, being in a state of rebellion, is 
blockaded by His Highness' ships of war, and will so continue until 
it is again reduced to submission^ and, therefore, no vessels will be 
permitted to enter said port, during the continuance of such block- 
ade. 

I have the honor to be, 

very respectfully, 

your obedient servant, 
Edmund Roberts, 
Special Agent of the United States to the 

Sultan of Muscat. 



After concluding these letters, we were informed that the Ouali 
awaited to receive us. His house is a large one. We were led 
through a hall, where a crowd of servants salamed as we passed, 
and were ushered into a large room, on the second floor, with a lofty 
ceiling, and lighted by circular windows, glazed with panes of va- 
rious colors. The floor was covered with fine Persian rugs, and the 
flat recesses, which we found in all the houses of Muscat, were orna- 
mented with glass and French porcelain. In the centre of the room 
stood a table, covered with a camel's hair shawl, and loaded with 
dishes of cucumbers, grapes, almonds, quinces from Gambroon, hol- 
wah, confections of several kinds, and large tumblers of sherbert. 



TAKE LEAVE— TREATY. 91 

After partaking of this entertainment, coffee was served, in enamelled 
cups, of Persian manufacture, borne on stands of cut glass. Our 
handkerchiefs were then sprinkled with orange flower water, from an 
arrosoir of silver, and held over censers in which frankincense was 
burning. 

The governor now conducted us to the house of his brother, where, 
pretty nearly the same ceremonies were observed. The rooms, how- 
ever, were more gaudy, being furnished with rich rugs, and small otto- 
mans, each one covered by silk or satin of a different color. The 
silver, arrosoir, the censers, and even the enamelled cups of Persia, 
resembled those we had seen at the governor's, so much, that it would 
have been difficult to distinguish one from the other. We took leave, 
and were accompanied to the boat by the governor and Captain Cal- 
faun. There we shook hands; good wishes were mutually and hearti- 
ly bestowed, and we parted. 

It is a universal custom, amongst the nations of Asia, to make gifts 
to each other on all occasions of friendly intercourse; and, in nego- 
tiating treaties, the nature and value of the presents is always a 
point of grave consideration between the contracting agents. In 
conformity with this usage, a variety of articles -was presented to 
the Sultan by the United States, amongst which were a sword and 
altagan, with gold scabbards, and mountings. Tanner's map of the 
United States, an American Hag, a set of American coins, several 
rifles, a number of cut glass lamps, a quantity of American nankin, 
known as Forsyth's nankin. &c, &c<. 

A TREATY OF AMITY AND COMMERCE 

Between the United States of America, and His Majesty 
Syed Syeed bin Sultan of Muscat and his Dependencies. 

Art. I. There shall be a perpetual peace between the United States 
of America and Syed Syeed bin Sultan and his dependencies. 

Art. II. The citizens of the United States shall have free liberty 
to enter the ports of his majesty, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, with their 
cargoes, of whatever kind the said cargoes may consist, and they shall 
have liberty to sell the same to any of the subjects of the Sultan, or 
others who may wish to buy the same, or to barter the same for any 
produce or manufactures of the kingdom, or other articles that may 
be found there. No price shall be fixed by the Sultan or his officers, 
on the articles to be sold by the merchants of the United States, or 
the merchandise they may wish to buy, but the trade shall be free on 



92 TREATY WITH 

both sides, to sell, or buy, or excliange on the terms and for the 
prices the owners may think fit; and whenever the said citizens of 
the United States may think fit to depart, they shall be at liberty so 
to do; and if any officer of the Sultan shall contravene this article, 
he shall be severely punished. It is understood and agreed, how- 
ever, that the articles of muskets, powder, and ball can only be sold 
to the government, in the island of Zanzibar; but in all other ports 
of the Sultan, the said munitions of war may be freely sold without 
any restrictions whatever to the highest bidder. 

Art. III. Vessels of the United States, entering any port within 
the Sultan's dominions, shall pay no more than five per cent, duties 
on the cargo landed, and this shall be in full consideration of all im- 
port and export duties, tonnage, license to trade, pilotage, anchorage, 
or any other charge whatever. Nor shall any charge whatever be 
paid on that part of the cargo which may remain on board unsold and 
re-exported. Nor shall any charge whatever be made on any vessel 
of the United States, which may enter any of the ports of his Majes- 
ty, for the purpose of refitting, or for refreshments, or to inquire th^ 
state of the market. 

Art. IV. The American citizen shall pay no other duties on export 
jor import, tonnage, license to trade, or other charge whatever, than 
the nation most favored shall pay. 

Art. V. If any vessel of the United States shall suffer shipwreck 
on any part of the Sultan's dominions, the persons escaping from the 
wreck shall be taken care of, and hospitably entertained at the ex- 
pense oC the Sultan, until they shall find an opportunity to be returned 
to their country, (for the Sultan can never receive any remuneration 
whatever for rendering succor to the distressed;) and the property 
saved from such wreck shall be carefully preserved and delivered to 
the owner, or the Consul of the United States, or to any authorized 
agent. 

Art. VI. The citizens of the United States, resorting to the ports 
of the Sultan, for the purpose of trade, shall have leave to land and 
reside in the said ports without paying any tax or imposition whatever 
for such liberty, other than the general duties on import^ which the 
most favored nation shall pay. 

Art, VII. If any citizens of the United States, or their property, 
shall be taken by pirates, and brought within the dominions of the 
Sultan, the persons shall be set at liberty, and the property restored 
to the owner, if he is present, or to the American Consul, or to any 
other authorized agent. 



THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT. 93 

" Art. yill. Vessels belonging to the subjects of the Sultan which 
may resort to any port in the United States, shall pay no other or 
higher rate of duties, or other charges than the nation the most fli- 
vored shall pay. 

"Art. IX. The President of the United States may appoint con- 
suls to reside in the ports of tlie Sultan, where the principal com- 
merce shall be carried on, which consuls shall be the exclusive judges 
of all disputes or suits, wherein American citizens shall be engaged 
with each other. They shall have the power to receive the property 
of any American citizen dying within the kingdom, and to send the 
same to his heirs, first paying all his debts, due to the subjects of the 
Sultan. The said consuls shall not be arrested, nor shall their pro- 
perty be seized, nor shall any of their household be arrested, but 
their persons and property shall be inviolate. Should any consulj 
however, commit any offence against the laws of the kingdom, com- 
plaint shall be made to the President, who will immediately displace 
him. 

"Concluded, signed and sealed, at the Royal Palace in the City of 
Muscat, in the Kingdom of Aman, the twenty-first day of Septem- 
ber, in the year one thousand, eight hundred and thirty-three of the 
christian era, and the fifty-seventh year of the Independence of the 
United States of America, corresponding with the sixth day of the 
jnoon, called " Jamada Alawel," in the year of Al Hajra, (Hegira) 
one thousand, two hundred and forty-nine." 

The ratification of the above treaty, on the part of the United 
States, bears date, June 30th, 1834. The following certificate is ap- 
pended to the copy of the treaty, in the possession of the State De- 
partment. 

** This is to certify, that on the thirtieth day of September, Anno 
Domini, one thousand, eight hundred and thirty-five, corresponding 
to the sixth day of the moon, called " Jamada Althani," in the year of 
Al Hajra, one thousand, two hundred and fifty-one, Edmund Ro- 
berts, a special agent of the United States of America, delivered 
and exchanged a ratified copy of a treaty, signed at Muscat, in the 
kingdom of Aman, on the twenty-first day of September, one thou- 
sand eight hundred and thirty-three of the christian era, correspond- 
ing to the sixth day of the moon, called Jamada Alawel, in the year 
of Al Hajra, one thousand, two hundred and forty-nine. 

"In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, at 
Muscat aforesaid, on the sixth day of the moon, called " Jamada Al- 
thani," in the year Al Hajra, one thousand, two hundred and fifty- 



94 TREATY. 

one, corresponding to the thirtieth day of September, one thousand 
eight hundred and thirty-five of the christian era. 

Syed Syeed bin Sultan. 

The above treaty is written upon parchment in the Arabic and 
English languages^ its provisions are binding from the date of its ra- 
tification by the government of the United States. 



SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN, 



VOYAGE TO BOMnAY. 07 



CHAPTER X. 



SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN. 

October, 1835. 

Just as the sun set, on the tenth of October, we fired a farewell 
salute, and, with a gentle land breeze, bade farewell to the barren 
rocks of Oman, anxious to be far awaj from its * green waters,' be- 
neath a less ardent sky. Our passage was marked by light airs, cairns, 
and sultry weather. On several occasions, while crossing the Ara- 
bian sea, we remarked the phosphorescence of its waters at night; and 
when about two hundred miles to the southward of the classic Indus, 
we were visited by several beautiful land birds. In the sultry calm, 
which generally prevailed about mid-day, we saw a number of yellow 
water snakes, marked by bright black bands, floating lazily upon the 
mirror-like bosom of the sea. And, on two or three nights, we sav/ 
Halley's comet, which had been so long anticipated by astronomers. 

On the evening of the twenty-second, we descried the lighthouse of 
Bombay, and, after firing in vain for a pilot, dropped anchor in sight 
of a large fleet of fishing-boats. Early the following morning, we 
were again underway; a pilot boarded us, and about midday the ship 
was fast to the moorings assigned to her. We had the pleasure to 
find the Enterprise had been waiting our arrival several days; and 
the officers of the two vessels allowed but little time to elapse before 
they met. 

" Of all places in the noble range of countries so happily called the 
Eastern World," says Captain Basil Hull, in his amusing ' Frag- 
ments of Voyages and Travels,' *' from the pitch of the cape (of Good 
Hope) to the islands of Japan, from Bengal to Batavia, nearly every 
hole and corner I have visited in the course of my peregrinations, 
there are few which can compare with Bombay. If, indeed, I were 
consulted by any one who wished, as expeditiously and economically 
as possible, to see all that was essentially characteristic of the orien= 
13 



98 HARBOR OF BOMBAY. 

tal world, I would say, without hesitation, * Take a run to Bombay^ 
remain there a week or two,* and having also visited the scenes in the 
immediate neighborhood, Elephanta, Carli, and Poonah,you will have 
examined good specimens of most things that are curious or interest- 
ing in the East.' " 

The harbor of Bombay is formed by a number of islands, situated 
in the vicinity of the main, which shut in a beautiful sheet of water, 
of several miles in extent. The land is generally not very high, and 
the island of Bombay itself, though studded with some few hills, is low 
and marshy. There is a sufficient depth for the largest ships, and a 
tide that rises and falls seventeen feet. 

From the anchorage, there is nothing striking, either in the ap- 
pearance of Bombay, or of the harbor, except its extent^ and after 
reading the paragraph quoted above, one feels a very considerable 
degree of disappointment, to see nothing but an extensive fortress, 
of no great height, built of hewn stone and darkened by time^ no- 
thing appearing above it, except one needle-like spire of a presby- 
terian church. With what degree of allowance we are to receive 
the impression conveyed by the said paragraph, in relation to the 
scenes on shore, is a matter we may not at present decide^ yet, we 
certainly did not anticipate much from the picture after a glimpse of 
its setting. Perhaps the warm colors in which travellers so com- 
monly draw pictures of places they visit, too readily fire the imagina- 
tion, warmed by the anticipation of seeing new countries, and betray 
the judgment into too exalted notions; thus bringing disappointment 
upon the visiter and discredit upon the traveller, whose description 
he may have read, without, however, the traveller being really to 
blame. I have sometimes ventured to think, in these book-writing 
times, that books of travel are often * got up ' as a pleasant recreatioa 
for the home-staying, rather than with a view to afford them a substi- 
tute for travel, by presenting accurate portraits of places visited. The 
writers seem to be satisfied that the world had rather be amused 
than instructed, and to care little whether their works serve or not, 
as guides to those who may follow in their track; but I do not 
accuse them of obedience to the trite command, '* Never spoil a story 
for the sake of the truth." 

About five o'clock in the afternoon, when the sun's rays were not 
so intense as at midday^ we pulled for shore, and made our way to 
the * new bunder.' Near tiie shore, rode a crowd of small craft at 
anchor; in their construction, resembling the dilus of east Africa 
and Arabia. Their beaks and stems are high, their masts rake for- 



VISIT THE SHORE PALANQUINS. 99 

ward, ami every one had a square box, or a platform slang over the side 
amidships, on which might be seen a half- naked Hindoo, performing 
ablu4:ion or other personal service. A most common sight on board 
these craft about this hour, was that of a knot of half naked sailors, 
intently engaged in a minute and mutual inspection of headsj but 
they never would be taken on this account for phrenologists. These 
vessels were from Goa and other places on the Hindoostanee coast. 
The numerous boats, plying to and fro, their hulls shaped like a half 
melon, carried latine sails, which appeared to us very large, until 
we observed, they make up in spread what they want in density or 
closeness of texture. 

Scarcely had our feet touched the inclined plain or slip of stone, 
terminating the long mole, called the ' new bunder,' before a half 
dozen palanquins were offered to our acceptance, the bearers impor- 
tuning us, much after the fashion of porters and hackney- coachmen 
on the arrival of a steamer at the M'harves of New York or Philadel- 
phia. A palanquin is an oblong box, seven feet long, two and a half 
wide and four high, having sliding doors or blinds on either side, by 
which the passenger is admitted, and which may be left open or 
closed at his pleasure. The interior is lined with calico and trimmed 
with silk curtains; a thin mattress or cushion covers the floor, on 
which he reclines: at the head there is a pillov/, and at the foot a 
shelf for the accommodation of hat, &c., and a round pillow to place 
beneath the hams. A thick pole, about five feet long, secured by 
iron staunchions, projects from each end: by means of these the car- 
riage is borne on the shoulders of four bearers of brawny frames, 
who, with the exception of a turban and kummerband, or cloth tied 
about the loins, go naked; they travel as fast as a horse ordinarily 
trots,* the motion is tremulous and wearying, until one becomes ac- 
customed to it. 

The evening being pleasant, we preferred walking; besides, I felt, 
I must confess, a repugnance to be carried about on the shoulders of 
men; a prejudice I did not entirely get rid of while at Bombay. As 
we pursued our walk along the bunder, we saw numerous equipages, 
and noticed a small house for the accommodation of custom-house 
officers on the look out for contraband. It was a novel sight to see 
kummerbanded Hindoos, turbanded Banyans, and lofty capped Par- 
sees in white, sitting in English -built buggies, driving active horses, 
having a Hindoo, in a white costume, running alongside with a hand 
on the shaft, or just ahead, ever and anon crying out, *• paish," to 
warn foot passengers out of the way. Buggies, phaetons, stanhopes 



loo HINDOO NEW YEAR. 

and palanquins, were passing in and out of the castle as we entered 
it. The castle or fortress has a double ditch or fosse, and twowallsj 
the entrance, therefore, is over two drawbridges, and through two 
gates, at both of which are English sentinels, who are particular in 
giving the appropriate military salutes to passing officers. 

The night was held as a festival, in celebration of the Hindoo new 
year. About seven o'clock, we strolled through several streets to 
the bazaar, which we found crowded with people from all parts of 
the East. The whole place was brilliant with lamps of cocoanut oil, 
generally constituted of a tumbler half full of water with the oil 
floating thereon, suspended in a glass globe. Nothing can be more 
amusing to a stranger than this scene. The illumination was bril- 
liant and the crowd great. Here were stalls filled with tobacco and 
arecanuts, which the shopmen were cutting with shears, into small 
pieces^ next, a tippling shop where arrack was sold, conspicuous in 
the bright lamp-light, by the red color of the barrelsj and then per- 
haps a stall filled with confections. In the crowd were numerous 
children, borne on the arms of their attendants, decorated with tinsel 
and silk skull caps of various colors; and, from the dark pencilling 
of the eyelids with antimony or soot, looking grotesquely enough. 
Presently we halted in a crowd, gazing at a huge mask in a China- 
man's shop, that was so contrived as to open and shut the eyes and 
mouth in continuous succession. All seemed to be a dumb show; 
no one spoke above his breath 5 there was no hum of human voices, 
such as v/ould arise from such a moving mass of heterogeneous human 
beings in any part of the christian world. 

We strolled about for an hour, elbowing our way, first to one side 
and then to the other, at each moment beholding something novel. 
Fatigued at last by our wanderings, we turned our ways to the new 
bunder and embarked. 

The next day I employed, as '* dubash," a Parsee of polite exte- 
rior, and accompanied him to examine several houses which were to 
rent, with the view of establishing on shore as many as could not 
be otherwise accommodated, while the ship should be in dry dock 
undergoing repair. I had scarcely landed, before I w^as in a palan- 
quin, accompanied by a Hindoo, who bore a Chinese umbrella, with 
which to protect me from the sun wherever I might go. This func- 
tionary, who is termed a " Mussol," I found, on many occasions, to 
be a very useful attache. My Parsee dubash carried his own para- 
sol, and walked near the palanquin, pointing out every thing we 
passed. After looking at several establishments, I found one in 



LIVING AT BOMBAY DOCKS. 101 

" Rampart Row " that suited us. The dubash was left to make the 
necessary arrangements, and the following day, at five o'clock P. M. 
according to promise, we found our house furnished, supplied with 
servants, and dinner on the table. 

One cannot conceive easily the mode of living in Bombay. The du- 
bash was the right hand man — the/^c tohim, who supplied every thing 
we desired. Our little establishment required a butler or steward, 
whose business was to take care of the pantry and table: he wasa Parsee, 
and for his religion's sake, would not meddle with fire, nor drink out 
of any thing belonging to us| and his own cup, which was of a sort 
of brass, he did not touch with his lips, but when he drank, held 
back his head, and poured into his wide open mouth a stream of 
water. The cook wasa half caste Portuguese, and, though there 
was a cistern of fine water at hand, he required a man, who v/as of 
the Parboo caste, to draw it for him, besides a Hindoo, to perform 
the duties of a scullion, and keep the glass lamps in order. Fuel 
was supplied by women; and two came every day to sweep the 
street before the door, and to remove all immundicities from tiie pre- 
mises. Besides these menials, each one of us had his mussoi and pa- 
lanquin bearers, as occasion required. 

The ship was docked, and we found the injury so extensive, that 
it was necessary to put on a nevy false keel, and caulk and copper 
the bottom, for which every facility was kindly offered by the offi- 
cers of the Honorable East India Company. The dock yard is ex- 
tensive, and contains all the necessary appliances for repairing ships. 
There are two fine docks, each one capacious enough to contain three 
vessels at the same time^ but, owing to the bar at their entrance, not 
capable of receiving the largest size ships of v^^ar, v^^ilhout the labo- 
rious and tedious process of buoying them over the bar, by the aid 
of camels and casks. Bombay has many claims to celebrity for her 
ship-building and naval arsenal. The builders and mechanics are 
generally Parsees, who are said to be assiduous and skilful; but 
ovv'ing to their peculiar manner of working, do not accomplish in the 
same space of time so much as Europeans usually do. The [eat are 
as much employed as the hands; and the carpenter sits upon the 
ground, holding the plank or wood, upon which he was at work, be- 
tween his feet, while the hands manoeuvre the plane or saw, as occa- 
sion may suggest. 

Having taken proper precautions against musquitoes, the torment- 
ing little bores of humanity in the East, we slept soundly in our new 
lodgings, and the next day set about seeking information relative to 



102 PERIODICAL PRESS. 

the place of our sojourn^ but, never in the whole course of our wan- 
derings, in different parts of the w^orld, have we found it more diffi- 
cult to obtain local knowledge. Those persons who, we presumed, 
possessed information, of the kind we souglit, either had it not, or 
were not free to communicate it; and many of those to whom we 
w^ere so bold as to address questions, either looked puzzled, or gave 
indefinite and evasive answers. Yet we were happy in being very 
kindly and very hospitably entertained, but do not think it becoming 
to individualize, by making public acknowledgments for private 
courtesies. 

The periodical press of Bombay affords little matter of general in- 
terest. The Bombay directory, which is irregularly published, con- 
tains an almanac and the official registers, and some of the laws re- 
lating to //le Company. " The Oriental Christian Spectator," published 
monthly, at the " American Mission Press," is interesting to the 
friends of the missionary cause, in all parts of the world. The 
*' Bombay Government Gazette " appears weekly, on a sheet of fools- 
cap size; its columns are filled with notices and proclamations, in 
the English, Hindoostanee and Mahratta languages. The "Bombay 
Gazette" and the Bombay Courier," are bi-weekly, and twice as 
large as the last. Then, there is the *' Price Current," and a weekly 
paper, entitled " Bombay Hurkaru and Vurtuman," edited by a Par- 
see, in the Hindoostanee language. 

The "Bombay Gazette" for October 24, 1835, contains the fol- 
lowing polite notice of our arrival, which may be interesting to Ame- 
ricans, as it is in a slight degree indicative of the notions entertained 
of them by Englishmen generally, though not universally. 

*' The arrival of the American ship of war in this port, reminds us 
of some rumors which were afloat last season, regarding the object 
of American ships of war in the Indian seas, and particularly, of 
their making Muscat their chief destination. The burden of those 
rumors was, that the Americans were wishful to establish a factory 
at Muscat, and had applied to the Imaum for a license for that pur- 
pose. It was even said, that their application was in so far success- 
ful, until a remonstrance on the subject had been forwarded to the 
Imaum by the Admiral. Whether Jonathan's views are to be di- 
rected to the same purpose on this present occasion, we have no means 
of ascertaining; although, from his known perseverance, we should 
not be surprised to find the affirmative to be the fact." 

The preceding pages of this work show, pretty clearly, what 
weight the Admiral's remonstrance had with the Sultan of Muscat, 



THE admiral's REMONSTRANCE. 103 

and will explain to the editor of the " Bombay Gazette " * the object 
of American ships of war in the Indian seas,' should the volume, by 
any chance, fall in his way. At an interview of some British officers 
with " His Highness of Muscat," — it may have been on the occasion 
of presenting the above named remonstrance, — they spoke to him dis- 
paragingly of the United States, and said they formed an insignifi- 
cant nation, in the eyes of Europe. *' How can that be?" replied 
the Sultan: " I see in my ports ten of their ships for one of yours, and 
I have read, they flogged you in two wars." 

I am not surprised that the editor of the "Bombay Gazette" 
should so far mistake the policy of the government of the United 
States as to imagine that we are desirous of establishing factories 
abroad. I have seen this notion alluded to, and expressed, by seve- 
ral English writers, whom we would have supposed better informed 
in the matter. As an instance of the prevalence of this notion, I may 
be excused for adding the following sentence, quoted by Stephen 
Kay, in his interesting "Travels and Hesearches in Caifraria," be- 
fore quoted, from the " South African Quarterly Journal " for 1830. 
''Should this bay (Delagoa) fall into the possession either of the 
Americans, the French, or the Russians, it would be most ruinous, 
not only to the Cape colony, but to our East India possessions and 
commerce, either in peace or war; and in war, as being one of the 
finest ports in the world, whence inimical enterprises might issue at 
pleasure." 

We can assure all those gentlemen, they have nothing to apprehend 
from us, on the score of foreign factories and colonies, at least for 
the present: being entirely opposed, both in principle and practicCj 
to the system of monopolies, our motto will be, for centuries to come^ 

" Free Trade, and Sailors' Rights." 



104 THE BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 



CHAPTER XL 



SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN. 

Nbvemhery 1835. 

The small island of Bombay, situated on the Malabar coast, in 
latitude 18° 56' north, and longitude 72° 57' east, being about ten 
miles in length, and three in breadth, gives its name to the whole 
presidency of Bombay. It is separated from the island of Salsette, 
on the north, by a narrow strait, half a mile wide, called the river 
Mahim, which is crossed by a causeway, or viaduct, which connects 
the two islands. Bombay castle, which stands on the southern end 
of the island, is eight or ten miles distant from the main land. The 
island is generally low and level, and is traversed by fine Macadam- 
ized roads. The soil is fertile during a great part of the year, but, 
being frequently flooded in the rainy season, the climate is unhealthy: 
the most prevailing diseases are intermittent and typhoid fevers, and 
dysentery. For a long time after it was first visited by Europeans 
it was regarded with horror; few persons had courage to reside where 
the climate was so fatal, that it was a proverbial saying, *' The life 
of man was equal in duration to that of two monsoons." When first 
taken possession of, the fields were overgrown with bamboos and 
palms, and were manured by decayed fish; and marshes and pools 
infected the atmosphere with their exhalations. These destructive 
miasms would have driven the English away, had it not been that 
the island has the best harbor in all Hindoostan; the only one, ex- 
cept that of Goa, capable of admitting ships of the line; they secured 
to themselves this important matter, and, by opening and draining 
the country, succeeded in depriving the climate, in a very great de- 
gree, if hot entirely, of its insalubrious qualities. Now, instead of 



ISLAND OF BOMBAY-— GUINEA WORM TOWN. 105 

marshes and pools, the island presents the aspect of an extensive and 
well cultivated garden. 

There are few springs on the island. Fresh water is supplied from 
large cisterns, or tanks, which are filled bj the rains^ but it is not 
considered wholesome, nor does it preserve well at sea; therefore, 
vessels carrying passengers usually call at Ceylon, in their way to 
Europe, for this important article. A singular disease is said to arise 
from the use of Bombay water; an insect, or worm, is conveyed from 
it into the system, which, after a time, makes its appearance upon 
the surface of the body, in a vesicle, frequently as large as half a 
hen's egg. When this vesicle is opened, the extremity of a white 
thread-like worm is perceived, surrounded by a gelatinous fluid. To 
remove the disease, the end of the animal is seized, and gradually 
v/ound on a dossil of cotton wool, a few turns being taken daily until 
the whole is extracted. It is necessary to proceed thus cautiously; 
for, if the animal be broken, it. retires to make its appearance at some 
other point, when the same steps are to be taken. The animal occa- 
sionally attains several feet in length, and it causes severe pain to the 
patient; a servant on board suffered many weeks from one, which first 
made its appearance in the calf of the leg. 

The walls of Bombay are about three miles in circumference. The 
streets are Macadamized, and cross at irregular angles. The houses 
are lofty, many being five or six stories high; and they are built, ge- 
nerally, in the Portuguese style. The town contains one indiffer- 
ently kept inn, several churches, two circulating libraries, a company 
library, which is a branch of the Asiatic library, and a reading room. 
The public buildings are the Town Hall and Mint; the former has a 
pretty portico, which is disfigured by a great flight of steps; it stands 
on one side of an open square, in the centre of which there is a monu- 
ment and cenotaph, in commemoration of Lord Cornwallis, which 
receives votive offerings, in the form of garlands and flowers, such 
as are given to the deities of the Hindoo system of worship. The 
theatre has been recently disposed of, and converted to other pur- 
poses. 

The population of the island has been variously estimated; but in 
the most recent report we find it set down at 230,000 souls, who oc- 
cupy 20,786 dwellings, grouped into the several towns designated, 
Bombay castle. Dungaree, Mahim, Byculah, and Colabah. But the 
following census of 1828, given in the " Asiatic Journal " for March, 
1829, will give, probably, a better idea of the varieties of the humaa 
race^ living on the, island of Bombay. 
14 



106 rOPULATlON COMMERCE. 





Census 


OF THE 


[sLAND OF Bombay. 




English 




938 


Portug-uese 


8,020 


Parsees 




10,738 


Jews 


1,270 


Armenians 




39 


Moors 


25,920 


Hindoos 




82,592 


Mabars 


3,005 


Chinese 




48 


Military 


10,000 



Floating population, 20,195. 

To this is added an Anglo-Asiatic population of pure European de- 
scent, estimated at 5,000, including English and Portuguese: there 
are no less than nineteen different languages spoken upon this piece 
of land, which contains little more than eighteen square miles, 

Bombay is the centre of the trade of western India, and is an entre- 
pot for the countries bordering the Red Sea, the east coast of Africa, 
Arabia, the Persian gulf, a large part of the Indian Archipelago and 
China. European and American vessels therefore find cargoes here 
from the greater part of India, which consist of drugs, spices of va- 
rious kinds, Batavia and Goa arrack. Cashmere shawls cornelians, 
agates, cotton wool, &c., for which the English "Company ships" 
and " free-traders " exchange cotton and other European manufac- 
tures. The amount of cotton imported into Great Britain from all 
India, in 1823, was 180, 233,795 pounds' weight. The export from 
Bombay, from the first of January to the 23rd of October, 1835, was 
66,871 candies of 784 lbs. each; equal to 52,426,664 pounds. Of 
this 41,100 candies went to Great Britain; 24,565 to China, and 1,206 
to France. Perhaps it will not be exceeding the truth to estimate the 
export of cotton wool, at 75,000 candies a year. 

The chief trade with China is in sandal wood, cotton wool and 
sharks' fins, for which teas and Chinese manufactures are returned. 
Many fine ships employed in this trade, are owned by Parsees and 
native merchants. The extent of the English trade is very great, but 
I have no definite data in relation to it. 

The trade between Bombay and the United States does not ex- 
ceed, at present, six or eight vessels a year. They carry out a few 
articles of provisions, tobacco, &c., their masters or supercargoes be- 
ing furnished with letters of credit, which authorize them to draw 
bills on London for the amount of funds they may require. They 
purchase drugs, elephants' teeth, dried fruits, &c., which find their 
way hither in native vessels from the various countries before men- 
tioned. Large quantities of copal are carried to the United States, 
where it is manufactured and again returned in the form of copal var- 
nish and sold at a large advance. 



GOVERNMENT. 107 

The rate of exchange in November, 1835, for bills on London nt 
six months sight, was two shillings for each rupee, or ten rupees to 
the pound sterling, dollars at that time being worth two and a quar- 
ter rupees each. 

Accounts are kept bj merchants in rupees, quarters and r^aes^ but 
the government keeps its accounts in rupees, annas and pice. The 
coins now in circulation, issued from the mint at Bombay, are the 
whole, half, and a quarter rupee of silver, and the half and quarter 
anna and pice of copper. The relative value of these coins is, as 
follows: 



5 Raes (an imaginary coin) "^ 

5 Pice I 

16 Annas or 80 pice p» make 






1 Pice 
1 Anna 
1 Rupee 



100 Reas ' j I ^ Quarter Rupee 

400 Reas or 4 quarters J L ^ Rupee 

There is no gold coinage in circulation. 

There is a post-office, and a mail carried over the greater part of 
India; and recently mails have been sent to Europe in a steamer, up 
the Red Sea to Suez, and thence by way of the Mediterranean. 
Should this be continued, which is doubtful, it will be the means of 
drawing India much nearer to Europe; the average passage from Eng- 
land to Bombay, by the way of the cape of Good Flope, is 121 days, 
but by the new route it may be reduced to forty-five. 

" The government of Bombay and its dependencies is by law vested 
in a governor and three counsellors, who are, in respect to the native 
powers, to levying war, making peace, collecting and applying reve- 
nues, levying and employing forces, or other matters of civil or military 
government, under the control of the governmentgeneral of Bengal; and 
are, in all cases whatever, to obey their orders, unless the court of direc- 
tors shall have sent any orders repugnant thereto, not known to the go- 
vernment general, of v.'hich, in that case, they are to give the govern- 
ment general immediate advice. The court of directory appoint the 
governor and members of the council, and likewise the commander- 
in-chief of the forces: the latter is not, ex officio^ to be of the coun- 
cil, but is not disqualified from being so, if the court of directors 
shall think fit to appoint him; and, when a member of the council, he 
takes precedence of the other counsellors. The civil members are to 
be appointed from the list of civil servants, who have resided twelve 
years in the service of India. The method of conducting business 
at the council board is as follows:- — matters propounded by the Pre- 
sident are first proceeded upon: he may adjourn the discussion of 



108 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF BOMBAY. 

questions put by other members of council, but not more than twice. 
All orders are expressed as made bj the governor in council. The 
governor has power to act contrary to the opinions of the other mem- 
bers of the council, taking upon himself the whole responsibility. On 
such extraordinary occasions, the governor and counsellors are to 
communicate to each other their opinions and reasons by minutes in 
writing, and to meet a second timei if both retain their first opi- 
nions, the minutes are entered on the consultations, and the orders 
of the governor are to be valid, and put in execution."* 

The island of Bombay was formerly under the Mogul dominion, 
but ceded to the Portuguese in 1530, by whom a fort was erected on 
the south-east extremity of the island, its fine harbor indicating it as 
a desirable place for establishing a factory. In 1661, the island was 
ceded by Portugal to Great Britain as a portion of the Infanta 
Catherine's fortune on her marriage with Charles II. The mor- 
tality of the king's troops was so great, and there being no advan- 
tage derived by the crown from the possession of Bombay, the ex- 
penditure being greater than the receipts. His Majesty, in 1668, 
transferred the Island to the Honorable East India Company, in free 
and common soccage as the manor of East Greenwich, for which the 
East India Company became bound to pay the annual rent of ^10, 
in gold, on the SOth September each year. In 1681, Bombay was a 
dependency of Suratj but in 1683, it was erected into a Presidency, 
and in 1686, became the head station of the company, on the west- 
ern side of India. Until the beginning of the eighteenth century, 
the settlement of Bombay languished, in consequence of the ravages 
of the plague and other causes, which induced the Mogul's admiral 
to invest it, in 1668, by whom it was very closely pressed, Mahim, 
Mazagon and Sion being captured, and the governor and garrison 
besieged in the fort. Submission being made to Aurengzebe, he 
withdrew his forces from the settlement. In 1776, the island of 
Salsette, 18 miles long and 14 broad, was obtained by cession from 
the celebrated intriguer Ragoba, or Rogonath Rao, on condition 
of restoring him to the supreme power as Peishwa or head of the 
Mahratta confederacy. 

On the downfal of the Mysore dynasty in the south of India, it 
was deemed necessary by the ISIarquis of Wellesley, to crush the 
domineering power of the Mahrattas under Dowlut Rao Sindiah, 
Holkar and the Rajah of Berar; and, in the war which followed, the 
battle of Assaye, 23d September, 1803, may be said to have given 

*Milburii's Oriental Commerce. London,, 1825. 



EXTENT OF THE BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 109 

supremacy to the British influence in the west of India. On the ter- 
mination of hostilities in December, 1803, with Sindiah, the valuable 
districts of Broach (1600 square miles) in the province of Guzerat, 
having the gulf of Cambay on the west, was ceded to the Bombay 
Presidency^ as was also the strong fortress of Ahmednuggur, in the 
province of Aurungabad, which had been previously captured by 
General Wellesley, in August, 1803, with some other places of 
minor importance. In 1816, Mandavie, the chief sea port of Cutch, 
latitude 22° 50' north, longitude 69° 33' east, together with Angar, 
were ceded by the governing power to the East India company, and 
placed under the sway of the Bombay Presidency. 

The ambitious and treacherous designs of the Peishwa in 1817, 
against the British, by whom he had been elevated to power and 
supported in his dominions so long, was the means of extending yet 
more the territories under the Bombay Presidency. The war waged 
by the Marquis of Hastings, against the Mahrattas and Pindaries, set- 
tled the fate of western India, and in 1818, the northern and south- 
ern Concan, 12,270 square milesj Kandeish, 12,430 square milesj 
Poonah, 20,870 square miles; Dharwar, 9,950 square miles, and 
various territories, &c., in Guzerat, became the dominions of the 
British in India; the whole of the Bombay Presidency now forming 
an area of 64,938 square miles, and a population of upwards of 
seven millions of souls. 

The northern and southern Concan, forming the more southern 
sea-coast territories of the Bombay Presidency, extend along shore 
from Duraaun to Malabar, about 220 miles by 35 miles inland, em- 
bracing an erea of 12,270 square miles, and presenting a congeries 
of steep rocky mountains, rising in some places to the height of from 
2000 to 4000 feet, as abrupt as a wall, while most part of the 
table land, to the eastward, is of difficult, if not of impracticable 
access for wheeled carriages. The Ghant in general gradually de- 
clines towards the sea, possessing in some places fertile rice tracts, 
irrigated by numerous mountain streams. The coast is indented 
with small bays and shallow harbors or coves, with rocks, ravines and 
chasms; the island of Bombay containing 18^ square miles, including 
Colabah and Old Woman's Island, being little more than a cluster, 
or double bank of once detached whinstone rocks, through which the 
sea and Goper river flowed, but of which, the retreating ocean, from 
the western side of India, has now permitted the consolidation into an 
islet, by means of two sand -belts at the northern and southern ex- 
tremity of O'-xh ledge of rocks, and these natural causeways, now 
changing into rock, are rendered more secure by the construction of 



110 BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 

artificial dams, bj which, at spring tides, the ingress of the sea is 
prevented. There are no rivers of magnitude on the Concan coast. 
When ceded to the British, in 1818, almost every hill had a fortifica- 
tion, and every rock of an inaccessible nature a fortress, all of which 
are now rapidly crumbling into decay. 

The districts of Surat, 1850 square miles; of Broach, 1600; of Ah- 
medabad, 4600; of Kaira, 1380 square miles, all in the province of 
Guzerat, cover an extensive portion of wild sea-coast, as well as hilly, 
jungly and mountainous country, with many fertile tracts, cultivated 
and waste, watered by several noble rivers, such as the Nerbudda, 
Taptee, Mahy, Mehindry and Sabernutty; but not available for 
commerce like the Ganges. The Bombay government possesses 
a political control in the rich mineral provinces of Cutch, a district 
abounding in coal and iron, and evidently indebted for its origin to 
a volcanic eruption at some distant period. 

The north-west quarter of the ancient district of India, termed the 
Deccan, is under the administration of Bombay, and aifords in its 
general features, a complete resemblance to the European kingdom 
of Hungary, and like the latter, though of exceeding fertility in 
some places, yet in many parts, owing to the mountainous and rocky 
nature of the country, it is exceedingly barren. 

The collectorates of Poonah and Ahmednugger, embrace an area 
of 20,870 square miles, of an irregular country; elevated 2000 feet 
above the level of the sea, intersected by many rivers and streams, 
flowing through the most lovely valleys that the sun ever shone on, 
overtopped by hills 1000 feet high, of the trap formation, with the 
scarped summits peculiar to that species of mountain, and crowned 
by natural fortresses of a highly picturesque aspect. 

Candeish, another British district in the Deccan, of 12,430 square 
miles in extent, is an extensive, fertile and well-watered place; in- 
terspersed with low barren hills, at the base of which run numerous, 
ever purling, limpid rivulets, flowing from the table land into the 
Taptee: a large extent of country is still under jungle. The only 
remaining territories of the Bombay Presidency are the collectorates 
of Dharwar, Sattarah and the southern Jagheers containing 9,950 
square miles, situated in the south-west quarter of the Deccan. 
The western districts in the vicinity of the Ghauts are extremely 
rugged; the eastern tracts are less Alpine, affording more level 
country where the rocks, which in some places stud the surface, are 
buried in a rich black mould. The Ghauts along this district are 
not so much broken into masses, but present to the vio'.y continuous 
lines of mountainous forests; and along the course of the principal 



STIPENDIARY rUINCES OF lilllTlSlI INDIA. Ill 

rivers, Keishna, Toombuddra, Beema, and Gutpurba, the country is 
exceedingly rich and picturesque. 

It will be seen from the foregoing, that a large portion of the Bri- 
tish dominions in the east is made up of the possessions of princes, 
who, either themselves or their descendants, now enjoy stipends paid 
to them out of the public revenues. These princes litst became con- 
nected with the English by subsidiary alliances and ceded territo- 
ries, in return for military protection — others lost their dominions by 
the chances of war, while some territorities were taken under control 
from the absolute incapacity of the rulers, or their tyranny, which, 
in mercy to the unhappy sufterers, the English, (kind souls,) could no 
longer permit to exist. The princes of the first and last classes are 
formally installed on the Musnud, allowed to exercise sovereignty 
over the tenants on their household lands — they are exempted from 
the jurisdiction of the British courts of law, have their own civil and 
military functionaries, with all the insignia of state, and a British 
Envoy usually resident at their court, whose duties chiefly relate to 
their pecuniary affairs, or the ceremonies of sovereignty. The fol- 
lowing is an abstract, in round numbers, of their stipends. 



When granted. 


Titles of Princes. 


Stipend in Rupees * 


1803 


Emperor of Delhi and Family, 


15,00,000 


1801 


Soubahdar of the Carnatic, 


11,65,400 




Families of former Soubahdars, 


9,00,000 


1798 


Rajah of Tanjore, 


11,83,500 


1770 


Soubahdar of Beng-al, 


16,00,000 




Families of former — ditto. 


9,00,000 


1795 


Raj ah o f B e n are s. 


1,43,000 


1799 


Family of Hyder Ally and Tippoo, 


6,39,549 




Rajahs of Malabar, 


2,50,000 


1818 


Bajee Row, 


8,00,000 


1818 


Chimnajee Appah, 


' 2,00,000 




Vinaeck Row, 


7,50,000 




Zoolfikur Ali, 


4,00,000 




Himmut Bahudoor's descendants. 


60,000 




Benaeck Row and Seeta Baee 


2,50,000 




Govind Row of Calpee, 


1,00,000 




Nawab of Masulipatam, 

Total Rupeesj 
H rupees per dollar, 


50,000 




1,08,91,449 


Or, at the rate of - 


$4,840,644 



* One' hundred thousand m.ake a foe, and the table is pointed in accordance 
with this mode of reckoning-. 



112 BRITISH INDIA. 

Nearly one half of the East Indian territory is held by govern- 
ments in subsidiary alliances with the British government, the gene- 
ral terms of the treaties with whom, are, on the side of the English, 
protection against external enemies, and on the other, a submitting 
in all political relations with foreign states, to the arbitration and 
final adjudication of the British government; a specific force is fur- 
nished by the East India Company, and a territory equivalent to the 
maintenance of the troops ceded by the former. The subsidizing 
state is also bound to keep on foot a specific contingent force to act 
in subordinate co-operation with the subsidiary. The protecting 
power is not to interfere with the internal arrangements of the pro- 
tected states, but, in cases of exigency, it reserves the right, in gene- 
ral, to assume the whole of the resources of the protected state. The 
subsidiary force is liable to be called out to protect the legal succes- 
sion to power, but not to be employed between the head of the go- 
vernment and its zemindars, or chiefs. 

The following is given as a list of the Princes, the military protec- 
tion of whose territories is undertaken by the British government. 

Territory in Sq. Miles. 
25,300 
108,800 
36,000 
42,400 
17,600 
62,270 
6,100 
29,750 

9,400 



Princes. 


Their Capitals. 


King of Oude 


Lucknow 


Soubahdar of the Deccan 


Hydrabad 


H. H. the Quikwar 


Baroda 


Sindia and others 


Gualior 


Holkar and others 


Indore 


Rajah of Nagpore 


Nagpore 


Kas of Catch 


Bhooj 


Rajah of Mysore 


Mysore 


Rajah of Travancore 


Travancore 


Rajah of Cochin 


Cochin 



Total population, 15,000,000. 

Two of the foregoing (Oude and Mysore) can scarcely be styled 
stipendiary, the former being almost entirely dependent on the Bri- 
tish government, and the latter recently ordered under the direct 
management of the Madras Presidency, owing to long misgovern- 
ment. The charges include revenue collection, political, judicial and 
police, maintenance of provincial battalions, customs, mint, &c. The 
balance remaining after these deductions, go to the purpose for which 
the territories were granted, — namely, the military protection of the 
government which assigned them. 

Besides the foregoing governments, there are several minor prin- 



FEUDATORY CHIEFS. 113 

cipalities with whom engagements or treaties have been entered into, 
agreeably to the peculiar circumstances of each, but with general sti- 
pulations applicable to all; namely, that the protected state maintain 
no correspondence of a political tendency with foreign powers with- 
out the privity or consent of the India government, to whom the ad- 
justment of its political differences is to be referred: they are per- 
fectly independent in their internal rule, but acknowledge tlie supre- 
macy of the India Government, when the interests of both powers 
are concerned: the troops of the protected state act in the field in su- 
bordinate co-operation to the British forces, the latter being empowered 
to avail themselves of natural or other advantages, in the allied coun- 
try, against an enemy when necessary. No asylum for criminals or 
defaulters is to be afforded, but every facility given to effect their ap- 
prehension in the state. Europeans not to be employed without British 
permission. According to the resources of the protected state, a tribute 
is required, or a military contingent to be kept in readiness, or service 
to be rendered according to the means of the protected power. The 
states thus protected, but without subsidiary alliances, are, 1. Siccim 
and the Sikh and Hill states; 2. The Rajpoot states; 3. Jaut and other 
states on the right bank of the Jumna; 4, Boondelah states; 5. States 
in Malwa; 6. States in Guzerat; 7. States on the Malabar coast; 
and 8. The Burmese frontier. 

States not under the British protection, are Scindia, the Rajah 
Dholapore, Barree, and Rajah Kera, (formerly Ranee of Gohud) Run- 
geet Sing of Lahore, the Ameers of Scind, and the Rajah of Ne- 
paul. 

The British Feudatory Chiefs, so far differ from the former class, 
that while the protected chiefs had treaties concluded with them as 
independent powers, the feudatory have had their allegiance trans- 
ferred to Great Britain by their feudal superiors, or by the event of 
war. In most cases the lands which they held as a life tenure, have 
been converted by the India government into a perpetuity, and the 
chiefs are permitted a supreme control on their own lands. Among 
the number of these chiefs, may be mentioned the Putwardhun family, 
of which there aie nine chiefs' — the Soubahdar of Jansi, chief of Ja- 
ioun and Calpee, family of Angria (the Mahratta pirate,) numerous 
tributaries in Kattywar and in Guzerat, the Rajahs of Shorapoor and 
Gudwal, the Seedee of Jiiijeera and other Abyssinian chiefs. Inde- 
pendent of these states the East India company's government have 
treaties with other surrounding nations; viz. with Persia the Compa- 
ny are in alliance, and have a resident at the court of the sovereigno 
15 



114 



POPULATION OF THE BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 



With Cochin China, Siam, Caubul, Nepaul, and Ava, the intercourse 
of the company is principally of a commercial nature, but they have 
residents stationed at Nepaul and Avaj with the Sultan of Muscat, 
and with other chiefs on the western shores of the Persian gulf, the 
Company have treaties for commercial purposes, and with a view to 
the suppression of the slave trade, and of piracy in the gulf. In or- 
der to secure the fulfilment of these treaties, the Company have esta- 
blished political agents on the shores of the Persian and Arabian 
gul fs. 

Before closing the subject, it may be desirable to mention an inde- 
pendent chief of great talent, wealth and power, with whom the Bri- 
tish government is on terms of friendly alliance; I allude to Runjeet, 
or Kanajit Sing, whose country includes not only w4mt is called the 
Punjaub, and the whole of the lovely and important valley of Cash- 
mere, but also considerable tracts of territory beyond the Indus, from 
Tatta in the south, to Thibet on the north, and from Caubul on the 
west to beyond the Sutlej on the east. This formidable potentate pos- 
sesses an army of six thousand regular cavalry, forty-three thousand 
three hundred irregular horse, twenty-three thousand infantry, orga- 
nized and commanded by Frenchmen, several excellent brigades of 
horse, (fifty-eight guns,) and foot (one hundred and forty-two,) artil- 
leryj nine mortars; 305 swivel guns on camels; 108 guns in different 
forts; an immense arsenal at Amritsir, and a vast treasury (his annual 
revenue in rupees 18,000,000) at Govind Garrow.* 

Census of the Bombay presidency, from a table of statistics of the 
Deccan by Lieutenant Colonel Sykes, and other documents laid 
before Parliament. 



Total population of the'Bombay Presidency, 

♦ The New Bombay Directory, for 1836. 



Collectorates. 


Square Miles. 


No. of Villages. 


Houses. 


Population. 


Bombay, 

(^Poonah, 
^ Ahmednug-gur, 
g . Khandeish, 
^ "^ Darwar, 
P S. Jagheerdars, 

^Sattara, do. 


18 

8,281 
9,919 
12,527 
9,122 
2,978 
6,169 
6,770 
5,500 
1,449 
1,357 
4,072 
1,827 


1,897 
2,465 
2,738 
2,491 
917 
1,703 
2,240 

655 

400 
728 
579 


20,786 
114,887 
136,273 
120,822 
187,222 


230,000 
558,313 
666,376 
478,457 
838,575 
778,183 
756,284 
656,857 
387,264 
454,431 
239,527 
528,073 
484,735 










Surat, &.C. 
Broach, 
Ahmedabad, 
Kaira, 


108,150 

55,549 

175,926 

127,201 



7,037,075 



BRITISH INDIA. 115 

In the Deccan, which includes an area of 48,987 square miles, and 
a population of 3,285,985, the average number of mouths to the square 
mile is 67.08, and the proportion of males to females about 100 to 86; 
the Mussulmans form only from 6 to 8 per cent, of the whole popula- 
tion, the Mahrattas from 60 to 70 per cent., the Brahmins from 5 to 
10 per cent, the Rajpoots from 3 to 6 per cent, and out-castes, &c., 
from 9 to 10 per cent.* 

The government of the Bombay Presidency, and of British India 
in general, it is asserted, is administered with benevolent mildness 
and equal justice; and the native subjects enjoy greater security in 
their property and citizen rights and privileges than they did previ- 
ous to the conquest. In the present day, there are few who have 
reason to complain of the severity of the government, whatever may 
be their treatment by private British residents. Various evidence 
may be gathered from the " Asiatic Journal " that the English adven- 
turers in India, who have embarked upon their own resources, are 
not all members of the moral and respectable classes which distin- 
guish their mother land. They are complained of as rapacious, cruel, 
and insubordinate, particularly in those sections of country wherein 
indigo is cultivated. Indeed, were we to look at those districts alone, 
we might question whether the condition of the mass of population 
has been improved by the change of rulers; the yoke of Britain bears 
almost as heavily as that of their former princes. It must be borne 
in mind that the natives, however capable they may be, are not eli- 
gible to any very important office under the government. In fact, 
the best educated and the most influential amongst them are merely 
used as convenient instruments to collect revenue for the British; 
particularly in those provinces which are tributary to the govern- 
ment. 

We might ask whether it would not be sound policy, as well as 
justice, to make the natives feel it their interest to support the go- 
vernment, and teach them, that upon its stability must depend their 
hopes and fortunes. " I cannot comprehend how giving men those 
interests in the state, without which no state can have any real value 
in their eyes, can increase their wish, any more than their power, to 
destroy it. I have heard of common sailors making off with the ship 
and cargo, but never of the proprietor joining in such an act. I 
never heard even of an Irish gentleman robbing himself and running 
away."t 

* The New Bombay Directory, for 1836. | Curran. 



116 BRITISH INDIA. 

The facts connected with the rise and progress of the British do- 
minion in the east must fill with admiration those who will contem- 
plate them. From a charter of exclusive trade, first given in the 
year 1600, to a few "merchant traders," which was renewed from 
time to time, has risen an empire of almost indefinite extent, and in 
which, with great reason, the English glory not a little. Of the 
wrongs and insults heaped upon the Asiatics, by the British, in their 
many conquests^ of the cunning policy they pursued, and of the 
many instances of treachery practised by them, it is not our purpose 
to speak. The ends may justify the means; or, we will be satisfied 
by being told tliat necessity was, on all occasions, the reason for cul- 
pable acts, though an elegant writer assures us, that necessity is urged 
as the excuse and apology of tyrants for their vilest deeds. Let them 
boast, with the Marquis of Hastings, that " The influence and autho- 
rity of the British nation extend from Ceylon to the mountains which 
border upon China, and from the confines of Ava to those of Persia, 
over ninety millions of subjects."* In the new world we envy them 
not their power nor possessions in the east. On the contrary, we 
wish them success in teaching the creed of political liberty to the ori- 
ental world, equal to that which crowned their efforts in the west. 
And may few centuries roll away, ere knowledge and Christianity 
elevate the debased Asiatics to the exalted level of their British 
rulers, and enable them to enjoy rational liberty, without subsidizing 
foreign troops to protect them from themselves If The dominion of 
the British in India may be contemplated in the light of a political 
mission, sent with the benevolent purpose of disseminating true 
knowledge, and of teaching hov/ men may enjoy most freedom at the 
least cost of feeling and treasure. To this it will come in the end. 
And then may England be as proud of this child as she now ought 
to be of the United States, the most precocious of her offspring. Let 
a free and well conducted press pour forth its fertilizing streams of 
knowledge upon the fallow mind of the vast multitude, and they will 
acquire that love of free agency which God has planted in the human 
heart, and soon rally round a flag that promises to lead them to inde- 
pendence of the foreign yoke which now represses their best ener- 
gies. The time may come, however distant it may appear, when 
both insular and continental India will be free and independent; 
but that time cannot arrive until the mysterious and superstitious 

• Crawfard's Embassy to Siam and Cochin China, 
t Vide, Sir John Malcolm's Political History of India. 



iir 

rites of the Boudliist, or Hindoo and Mohammedan creeds shall have 
faded away before the liglits of cliristianitj and true knowledge. 
Christian missionaries are sowing now the seed which will produce a 
harvest of worldly freedom, if not " crowns of glory and mansions in 
the sky." 

There are several circumstances which are tending to the amelio- 
ration of India. Education is as freely and as extensively imparted 
to the people as possible^ but the country is drained, or rather 
draining of money constantly, by those who accumulate wealth here 
to spend in England, which will lead the Company to give up their 
charter, and it will be found that the dominion of India will not be 
worth the cost of preserving. It is beyond our means to estimate 
the amount of money annually sent from India to England, to pay the 
numerous pensions and the allotments of those in active service, for 
the support of their families at hom.e. The country must feel effects 
similar to those experienced under the absentee system in Ireland; 
and it can be no pleasing reflection to philanthropic England to think 
that the country containing 100,000,000 of inhabitants is poorer this 
day, than when it was before she swayed its destinies. 



CHAPTER XIL 



SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN. 



November, 1835, 

On the first day of November, being Sunday, we visited St. Tho- 
mas's church. It contains within its walls some pretty monuments, 
erected to the memories of individuals who have ended their days in 
India. Lines of punkas, or great fans, suspended from the ceiling, 
were moving to and fro to cool the worshipful and worshipping con- 
gregation, who sat in ornamented and cushioned pews; entirely for- 
getting, we thought, that commandment, which inculcates keeping 
holy the Sabbath-day. Hindoos were on the outside of the temple^ 



118 RIDES ABOUT BOMBAY. 

pulling cords, which, passing through the walls, are attached to ttie 
punkas, and thus out of sight, managed to keep up a circulation of air. 
This is certainly a luxury at prayer^ but does it square with keep- 
ing holy the Sabbath day, in which " thou shalt do no manner of 
work; thou, nor thy son, nor thy daughter, thy man-servant nor thy 
maid-servant, thy cattle nOr the stranger that is within thy gates." 
How can we expect Hindoos, or others, to abandon the creeds of their 
fathers, to embrace that oi Christianity, while they see nominal 
Christians, performing merely the ceremonies of the religion which 
they urge upon them, and at the same time, even in the very temple, 
disregarding one of its chief precepts. These poor Hindoos cannot 
be so low in intellect, as to be uninfluenced by example. 

To use a technical phrase, there is "quite a revival " in religious 
matters at Bombay: religion, morality, and temperance are the order 
of the day; and if their precepts be observed, we should hope there- 
from a happy result. 

After the sermon, which was so wretchedly delivered that we 
Vv^ould not undergo a similar infliction, the parson published the banns 
between a spinster and a bachelor. Beyond these, I observed nothing 
essentially different from what we are accustomed to see in churches 
€f similar denomination in our own country. The salary of the mi- 
nister is 14,400 rupees, or $6,400 per annum, which, if the situation 
were open to competition, should secure, with equal nicety, better ta- 
lent than has fallen to the lot of the present incumbent. This is 
one of many of the improprieties of the onerous church system 
of England, which is carried out and kept up, throughout her im- 
mense dominions, without much regard to expediency. 

The rides about Bombay are pleasant, and offer to the stranger an 
endless variety of subjects for remark. One afternoon we rode out 
to Nonparel, to see the country residence of a well known Parses 
merchant. We passed out of Church gate, upon an open common 
or esplanade of a mile or more in extent. To the right, were nume- 
rous tents, belonging to the officers of the native regiments, and to 
the left, bungalows or permanent tents, surrounded by small gardens, 
tenanted by oflicers and their families. At the hour of five o'clock 
P. M. every day, the road is crowded with equipages of all kinds, 
hurrying to the country, or simply for a drive before dinner, the usual 
hour for which is seven o'clock. 

The first vehicle we passed was a buggy, in which sat two Parsees, 
and at their feet a Hindoo driver, who ever and anon cried " paish " 
to some pedestrian, or water-carrier, loaded wiUi two bright copper 



EQUIPAGES — COSTUME OF FEMALES. 119 

vessels of water, suspended within a foot of the ground by cords 
from the ends of a bamboo, which was balanced over the shouhler. 
Then'tlie poor fellow, entirely naked, except the langoty, (a string 
tied about the hips to support a delantal, m front;) bent forward and 
with an effort, hurried out of the way to one side of the path. The 
collarless wliite muslin frock, reaching to the knee, over short white 
pantaloonsj the long sharp-toed slipper; the high, purple or choco- 
late-colored cap, figured with white flowers, the lofty bearing and 
mustached upper lip which characterize the Parsee; the skull cap, 
white frock, the light white drawers, and dark skin which mark the 
Hindoo driver, contrast curiously in the stranger's eye, with the 
English harness and vehicle in which they ride. 

Next came a barouche, containing four English ladles, driven by 
Hindoos, and behind stood two Hindoo footmen in red frocks. This 
dashing equipage was followed by a crazy old gig crowded by three 
sleek Banyans in red turbans. Then we met a cart, drawn by water- 
buffaloes, bearing a hogshead which poured water into a trough be- 
hind, pierced with holes, from which it issued in numerous threads, 
to lay the dust, which otherwise would make riding any thing but 
agreeable. 

Numerous Hindoo females, in a sort of spencer, closely fitted over 
the breast, with tight sleeves, reaching half way to the elbow, and a 
calico cloth of dark color, wrapped twice round the body, falling in 
full drapery about the limbs, and the end passed backwards under 
one arm, then over the shoulders so as to cover the head, were seen 
picking up buffalo dung, which is dried and used for fuel. The 
females, who are the hewers of wood and drawers of water in India, 
are seen along the road, engaged in the most laborious employments. 
Some are bearing great jars of water on the head; some, baskets of 
fish: some are sweeping the road, and others more distant from the 
town, are reaping grass. Notwithstanding their menial occupations, 
like the Jewish damsels of old, they display a fondness for flowing 
robes and tinkling ornaments; almost all v/earing bangles of white 
metal upon their ankles, glass rings upon their arms, ear-rings and 
nose jewels.* They are occasionally seen, however, with the dress 

* There are many things seen every day in the East to remind us of the de- 
scriptions, and of the allusions to ancient manners and customs, to be found in 
tlie sacred writings. Isaiah tells us. Chapter III., that "Because the daughters 
of Zion are haughty, and walk with stretched-fortli necks and wanton eyes, 
walking and mincing as they go, and making a tinkling witli their feet,'^ the 
Lord will smite them. " In that day the Lord will take away the bravery of 



120 DUNGAREE. 

or robe tucked lightly between the limbs, the legs bare above the 
knee, and the bosom scarcely hidden, oifering no very attractive 
sight to the recently arrived European of either sex. 

When we had nearly crosed the esplanade, we came up to a tank 
or great well, surrounded by men and womenj some were pounding 
clothes with stones to make them cleans some were scouring their 
copper water vessels, and others filling them. Some were moving 
away and others arriving^ and as often as I passed the spot, whether 
in the morning or at the close of the day, the same scene was pre- 
sented. 

We entered the town of Dungaree, which being inhabited by 
Asiatics, is par excellence usually called the " native town." The 
streets were alive with people of every caste, male and female, old 
and young. Here we met two-wheeled vehicles, called hackeries, 
crowded with natives, or rather Asiatics, drawn by buffaloes, whose 
horns were ornamented with red paint. One of these hackeries, con- 
sisted of a platform of straw, above the wheels and extended beyond 
them, upon which sat the passengers a la Turque; another, was a kind 
of cart with a small triangular body, shut in by curtains, and generally 
occupied by females. Besides the laboring women already mentioned, 
we occasionally met females of a better order, attired in bright co- 
lored silk robes, but barefoot, and loaded with " tinkling ornaments" 
on the ankles and rings on the toes. 

The houses are ancient in appearance, and disfigured by small 
wooden verandas, and pieces of wood, painted red and blue, jutting 
from the walls. The roofs are of red tiles. The order of architec- 
ture is a non descript, partaking something of the Portuguese. The 
larger dwellings are three or more stories liigh, and have some claims 
to style. But altogether the scene at Dungaree is too complicated in 
its dramatis persojise for successful description. The strange costume 
of the females, and their unbecoming employments^ the absence of 
costume in the males| the variety of equipages; the runners trotting 
ahead of the horses, like pioneers to clear the way; the incessant 
cries of '' paish;" the hackeries and the watering carts; buffaloes 
laden v/ith skins of water, following its venders; Bramhun priests in 

their tinkling- ornaments about their feet, and their cauls, and their round tires 
like the moon; tlie chains, and the bracelets, and the mufflers; the bonnets, and 
the ornaments of tiie legs, and the head-bands, and tlie tablets, and the ear-rings; 
the rings, and nose-jewcls; the changeable suits of apparel, and the mantles, and 
the wimples, and the crisping pins; the glasses, and the fine linen, and the hoods, 
and the veils." 



SdENES IN DUNGAREE NONPAREL. 121 

yellow robes; naked devotees smeared over with claj or dust; occa- 
sional droves of long horned, lazily moving buffaloes; all these, min- 
gle in streams, setting in opposite directions through the almost 
endless street of Dungaree, and put description at defiance. There 
is no grandeur, nothing that recalls to mind those pictures of eastern 
magnificence which are so apt to seize upon the imagination and 
dwell in the memory. On the contrary, the scene is of poverty and 
wretchedness, brought into strong relief by the occasional appearance 
of the equipage of some dashing English nabob and his flaunting 
liveries. Whatever may be the elegance and condition of society 
among the English conquerors in the east, there can be little doubt, 
that the mass of the people are poor and miserably wretched, if they 
possess one single spark of that feeling, which we are accustomed to 
consider as a common attribute of humanity. Where the officers of 
the government, whether civil or military, in spite of their extrava- 
gant salaries, manage to get plunged into debt, a man must suffer for 
the common comforts of life who receives at most the paltry pittance 
of two or three rupees, less than a dollar and a half a month, which 
is true in the case of the common laborers. Yet they do exist on a 
little curried rice and fish. Clothing they have little, nor do they 
seem to desire more. In most instances their dwellings are sorry 
hovels, scarcely adequate to shelter pigs, at least in the rainy season. 
Can energy of character be looked for amongst a people so badly fed 
and so poorly lodged? The Sepoys employed by the Honorable 
Company, receive seven rupees (three dollars and ten cents) a month, 
out of which they are obliged to supply themselves with uniforms. 

Continuing our ride, we passed a long row of coppersmiths' shops, 
and about five miles from Bombay, the church of Bycullah, the resi- 
dence of a greater part of the American missionaries. Two miles 
farther brought us to the house of our Parsee friend, situated near 
Nonparel, a dwelling, or palace of the governor of Bombay. Our 
friend's retreat consists of two buildings. One is about one hundred 
feet long by forty broad, and is one story high. It forms a long sa- 
loon, with a tesselated marble floor, having a range of dormitories on 
one side. In the centre is a divan, and around the walls are nume- 
rous sofas, mirrors, and lamps. The other building is two stories 
high, almost as large, and stands at right angles with the first: so that 
a broad veranda is continuous along the back of the first and in front 
of the last. From its ceiling are suspended many lamps, for which 
articles every body in Bombay seems to have great admiration. The 
second story is handsomely furnished with pier-tables, mirrors, sofaSj 
16 



122 HINDOO TEMPLE DEVOTEE. 

and a fine carpet. To this establishment are attached a garden, sta- 
bles, coach houses, &c., in keeping with the whole. ■ In the neighbor- 
hood are several other mansions, greater in extent and much more 
magnificent in every respect. 

In one of our rides we stopped at tlie entrance of a Hindoo tem- 
ple, in the middle of the town of Dungaree, into which crowds of 
natives were entering, being a holiday, in consequence of an eclipse 
of the sun. We passed through a small gate, and found ourselves 
in an area, enclosing a square tank, each side of which w^as about a 
hundred yards long. On one side was a broad pavement, and on its 
margin next the water were two white square pillars, twenty-five or 
thirty feet high^ on the left was a row of lov/ huts, containing idols, 
into which we were not allowed to enter. One of these idols was a 
three-headed black bust, which a Hindoo told me was *'God Al- 
mighty," and another next to it, was " God Almighty number two." 
In front of the first was an image of the Niindee, represented lying 
down. I gave the man a piece of silver, which he immediately be- 
stowed into the hands of an officiating priest for the latter. 

The air was filled with pigeons flying to and fro, alighting occa- 
sionally on the templesj but they w^ere evidently alarmed at the din 
caused by a concourse of men and w^omen, plunging and splashing 
in the tank, for the purpose of ablution, believing that an eclipse ren- 
ders them unclean, and during its continuance they observe a rigid 
fast. Many resort to the sea, which they think is equally efficacious 
in removing the impurities to which they deem themselves subject. 

At the end of the pavement, opposite to that at which we entered, 
was a sort of hut, covered with branches and thatch, beneath which 
sat a Bramhiln devotee. Excepting a very small allowance of lango- 
tee, he was entirely naked. His hair, beard and face were matted 
and smeared with mud, and his body and limbs covered with dust. 
He appeared to be sixty years of age, and looked more the demon 
than tile saint. His left arm was shrivelled and bent at the elbow, 
and on the outspread palm, which was turned upwards, rested an 
earthen pot, in which was growing a small plant. Around it were 
placed sticks; a wooden spoon to receive alms was secured across it, 
and a string of brass bells ornamented the bottom. The whole was 
attached to the hand by a cotton bandage. The devotee was sprightly. 
He has a pair of cunning dark eyes, and his face is free from that sul- 
lenness of expression, which, in general, distinguishes religious en- 
thusiasts. He reports that he has held the flower-pot, in the position 
above dcscribeil, fur twenty-five years; nor has he in that time, cut 



THE Hindoos' desirable state. 123 

either his hair, his beard, or his nails. By the practice of such aus- 
terities he hopes to attain absorption into nature, the perfection of 
Hindoo beatitude, while he secures in this world the respect and ho- 
mage of all who approach his temple. The finger nails were very 
long and twisted like rams' horns. I attempted to measure that of 
the thumb, but he would not allow me to touch it, but permitted a 
Bramhiin to do so for me. It was ten inches and three-quarters in 
length. I bestowed a piece of silver in the alms' spoon, for which he 
returned thanks, or perhaps invoked Shivii's blessing. 

To attain a state of perfect apathy of the feelings and of the pas- 
sions is the great aim of the Hindoo devotee, A gentleman told me, 
that one of these wretches, who was entirely naked in the street, was 
pointed out to him by a native triumphantly, as the most pious man 
in Indian because, forsooth, he was so destitute of shame, that cover- 
ing for his body was rejected; the earth was his bed, the sky his ca- 
nopy, and the food he consumed was bestowed in charity — " But," 
inquired my informer," suppose the charitable were to refuse to feed 
him, what would he then do?" 

" That is supposing an impossibility, for no man would so far risk 
offending the gods as to refuse his mite to a Bramhun so truly pious." 

A few yards farther on, was another devotee, smeared with mud, 
but of not more than thirty years of age. He v/as standing near a 
fire, resting one foot on a stone, and blowing a great conch-shell 
trumpet. His swelled cheeks, and red, starting eyes; his posture, 
the fire and the crowd standing near, dappled with the light of the 
flame, for it was now past sunset, and they were lighting up the tem- 
ples; the almost deafening roar around us, added to a horrible stench, 
rendered the whole scene more like what one would imagine pande- 
monium to be, than a temple of worship. Every moment seemed to 
increase the crowd and the noise, and we quitted the orgies in feel- 
ings of deep disgust. 



124 EEVEE MISSIONARIF.S. 



CHAPTER XIIL 



SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN, 

November J 1835. 

On the 17th of November, we attended the levee of the Governor, 
Sir Robert Grant, held at the town hall, where we saw a number of 
the officers of the army and navy. At two P. M. the native offi- 
cers were received separately, this part of the presentation being 
what is termed a "durbar." The ceremony was an agreeable sight, 
from the variety of handsome uniforms present on the occasion. 

On the twentieth we attended, by invitation, an examination of the 
native female schools, under the superintendence of the American 
mission, and under the immediate care of Miss Farrar. We arrived 
about ten o'clock A. M. Many English ladies, and several officers 
of the civil service had already assembled. Notwithstanding an 
eclipse of the sun, which, it was feared, might cause parents to retain 
their children at home, not less than a hundred and fifty little girls 
of from six to twelve years of age, and of different castes, were pre- 
sent. The native teachers, who are of all castes, were in their best 
attire. One of them, a Banyan, wore a red turban composed of a 
bandage or fillet two inches widej the turns of which, after covering 
the top of the head, were laid one over the other sixty times, like a 
riband, so as to form a rim three inches wide, which set diagonally on 
the head. A yellow silk robe, hung full from the hips, like a petti- 
coat about the legs, and a red Cashmere shawl, worth perhaps one 
hundred dollars, was folded square over the shoulders. A pair of 
very broad-toed red slippers completed this truly picturesque cos- 
tume of the pedagogue, who bore no resemblance to the severe, 
black-coated gentry of the tribe who were wont, in old times, to in- 
fuse at once, terror and learning by the use of the birch. 

Besides Europeans, several Hindoos, and one old Mohammedan, 
but none of the parents of the children, were present. The Asiatics 



AN EXAMINATION OF A MISSIONARY SCHOOL. 125 

manifested very little interest in the examination^ what their opinions 
were on the subject, I did not ascertain. 

The children were strikingly different, in appearance, from any 
I have before seen collected on similar occasions. Their complex- 
ions were from the light yellow brunette of the Parsee, approach- 
ing to white, to the almost black of the Hindoo castes. Their heads 
were remarkably small, and many w^ere nearly naked; while others 
were gaily dressed and decorated with bracelets, bangles, ear-rings, 
nose-jewels, finger-rings and toe-rings of gold or silver. Many 
wore bright colored silks, richly embroidered; but one little girl of 
eight years old, who was very small for that age, drew our attention 
on account of her costume. It consisted of a blue satin spencer, 
almost hidden in gold needlework, and a silk petticoat, between the 
top of v^hich and the bottom of the spencer, were disclosed two inches 
of naked skin. Rings of gold encircled her wrists and ankles, as 
well as every finger and toe, to say nothing of those which were 
pendent from her ears and nose. In addition, a silk mantle or scarf 
was flung negligently over the shoulders. 

The little girls commenced the exercises by singing a hymn in 
the Hindoostanee language; after which they read in classes, and 
readily replied to the questions put to them. Some read short de- 
scriptions of animals, represented on cards. Their needle-work was 
exhibited and praised by the ladies present. The examination ter- 
minated very satisfactorily, and I was fully impressed, that the plan 
of educating native females must succeed, and, in the course of time, 
be attended with verv beneficial results throughout India. 

The great obstacles against which the missionaries have to contend, 
are the prejudices of caste. These are incredibly strong. Those of 
different castes will not, on any account, eat with each other, and 
the exercise of humanity and benevolence is confined to the dis- 
tressed of their own respective sect exclusively: their charity begins 
at home, and generally ends where it began. The following anec- 
dote, extracted from the " Bombay Gazette " for February 25th, 1835, 
is sufficiently illustrative of this inhuman prejudice. 

" On Thursday last the remains of a Brahmin woman were dis- 
covered at Mahim by the offensive smell coming from a house by the 
side of the public road. On examination, it was found to be a wo- 
man, from forty to fifty years of age, who had lived at Mahim for 
several years, and was known by the people of the place to have 
been for a long time in indigent circumstances. The neglected state 
the house was found in, and every thing about it, showed the greatest 



126 MISSIONARIES. 

wretchedness and privation. The deceased being a Bhutnee Brah- 
min, and subsisting on charity, her not being seen for several days, 
did not attract any attention, and when discovered the features were 
scarcely recognisable. 

" It was said, she was an out-cast from her own tribe, on account 
of her having, after the death of her husband, married a Mussulman, 
and to this was attributed her state of destitution." 

I have long entertained the opinion, that the little success attend- 
ing the missionary labors in general, is owing to the demonstration 
of too much religious zeal on their part, without any attempt to show 
the worldly advantages attending on a full belief in christian doc- 
trines. Greater success might be anticipated, if the minds of the mis- 
believers were first prepared by instruction in general knowledge, be- 
fore attempting to convince them of the religious errors in which they 
live. We are not aware of more than three or four distinguished in-^ 
stances of conversion to Christianity, effected by missionaries, where 
the individuals have been through the remainder of their lives intrinsi- 
cally pious. Next to the love of his native home, there is nothing a 
savage or heathen entertains so strongly in his bosom as his religion, 
no matter what may be its tenets. It seems plausible to suppose, 
that a man must be first capable of appreciating positive facts before 
he can comprehend abstract truthj therefore, his prejudices may be 
most readily removed by such knowledge as will lead the mind to a 
contemplation of things beyond the immediate vicinity of his homej 
things which may be turned to account in this world of ours. I am 
happy to find, that Major General Sir John Malcolm has expressed a 
similar opinion. *' It appears, however, to be generally admitted by 
the most able as well as pious of their members, that no rational hope 
can be entertained of success in propagating Christianity until a 
foundation has been first laid by a more general diffusion of knowledge. 
This conviction has been acted on for the last twelve years."* 

The present plan of instructing native female children, and for the 
execution of which Miss Farrar is entitled to high praise, is judicious. 

It is to the influence of woman that most systems of religion owe 
their propagation; France is indebted to Clotilda the wife of Clovis for 
the establishment of Christianity in her dominion. Though woman 
be lauded for her sweetness, her docility, her capability of accommo- 
dating herself to all circumstances and assuming every tone, we must 
not always expect to find her all complaisance, all submission, and in 

* TJie Political History of India. London, 1826. 



MISSIONARIES. 127 

all obedient; on the contrary, it is a part of her nature to resist con- 
trol, to dispute empire with an obstinacy proportioned to her means, 
and sometimes against all reason — Ce qw'une femme veul, Dieu le 
veut — therefore, let the women once enlist fairly in the cause, which 
is their own, for Christianity is the only religion which places them 
upon an equality with men, and the creeds of Bramhii will fall be- 
fore the advancing of the cross. 

In a very few years, by education, females must be raised from the 
abject condition of being the hewers of wood and drawers of water 
to a level with, if not superior to their lords and masters. Children 
will receive instruction from their mothers, and grow up free in a 
measure at least, from the besetting and blighting prejudices which 
now prevail; and in a second generation the same will be true, even 
to a greater extent. Already the feeling against caste has received 
a shock, and the little girls associate together, without much repug- 
nance, and their parents, for the sake of what they learn from their 
worthy instructers, suffer them to attend the schools. 

Our missionaries bear, and I believe most deservedly, a very high 
character, amongst the English at Bombay, who declare them to be far 
more active and successful than their own countrymen. And I can 
but regret, that the authors of the " History of British India," as well 
as Bishop Heber, should have passed them by unnoticed, when speak- 
ing on the subject. The extensive printing establishment, where the 
manual labor and composition of types are performed by natives, at pre- 
sent under the management of Mr. Webster, speaks volumes for them. 
It is the source of great numbers of school books and tracts, as well 
as translations of the sacred scriptures, into several languages of the 
East. 

However strongly opposed many may be to foreign missions, and 
blame the zeal with vv^hich they pursue their labors, I think it cannot 
be denied by the unprejudiced, that the missionaries have sacrificed 
much of worldly comfort, if not aggrandizement, to devote their lives, 
distant from their homes, to the benevolent purpose of setting misbe- 
lievers in the true road to worldly happiness at least. It must be evi- 
dent to the dullest comprehension, that most of them have capacities 
and energies which would procure for them more of this world's 
wealth, amidst their friends, in the most blessed country on the face 
of the globe, than they attain by taking up the staff and scrip of a 
missionary. They are content, with an humble subsistence, to pass 
through existence, exposed to the influence of insalubrious climates, 
to the wear and tear of mind and body, incident to their profession, 
and but too often to the world's contumely and misrepresentation. 



128 I'EDliAllS AND TIIEIU WAUES, 



CHAPTER XIV. 

SKETCHES IN HINDOOST2VN. 

November J 1835. 

Every day we were visited by borahs or pedlars, offering various 
articles for sale; amongst which were quantities of cast oft' military 
clothes and worn English books, generally from the libraries of offi- 
cers who had returned to England, or whose necessities exceeded their 
means. This not unfrequently happens, in spite of very large salaries, 
from the very extravagant modes of life which young men fall into 
on their arrival in India. We have known of a commendatory letter, 
in the possession of a man, declaring him to have been the head ser- 
vant of a gentleman, who signed himself an Ensign in one of the na- 
tive regiments. 

Jewellers brought their wares, cornelian and agate necklaces from 
Cambay, diamonds from Golconda, and other trinkets. But what we 
most admired were ladies' work boxes, card cases, &c., beautiful in 
their workmanship, particularly when we see the i^w tools employed 
in their manufacture. The exterior of these little fabrics is covered 
with mosiiic, composed of minute pieces of ivory, ebony, white me- 
tal like silver, and a composition of glue and dust of a fine wood, while 
the interior is lined with odorous sandal wood. 

Trafficking with these pedlars was the source of much diversion to 
our little mess; for invariably, after the most solemn protestations, that 
they were losing by the bargain, they received often less than half 
of the price ffrst demanded. On these occasions, our Diibash was pre- 
sent, as he said to " protect master," but in fact with an eye to his 
own interests; for he always insisted that all claims should be can- 
celled by drafts upon himself. And when they were presented, he 
took the liberty of deducting from one to ten per cent., according to 
circumstances, for prompt payment. This is a perquisite of the Du- 



FEMALE BEGGARS. 129 

bash, who, from the mode of making purchases of borahs, exercises 
amongst them a considerable patronage, and influence, often equally 
advantageous to both parties. 

Among other daily visiters were numbers of female beggars. One 
young woman with fine eyes and white teeth, bearing an infant 
astride her hip, and leading a child four 3'ears old by the hand, was 
wont to come every two or three days; and when alms were bestowed, 
she first touched her forehead with her hand and then the ground, at 
the same time the elder child bent forward its little head to the earth 
and embraced my feet, exhibiting a most touching and graceful sense 
of gratitude for our small pittance. My right hand man, Cowasjee, 
told me not to give to any beggar, because he or she would direct all 
the beggars in town to the house, and we should have no peace. 
Generosity is certainly becoming in a beggar; and what can be more 
generous than pointing out to others the source whence we have de- 
rived succor? No one can be happier than your true professional 
beggar, if he possess the splendid imagination which has been set 
down as an attribute of the cloth. 

*'Les gueux, les gueux, 
Sont les gens heureux? 
lis s'aiment entre eux. 

Vivent les gueux! 
Des gueux cliantons la louange. 
Que de g-ueux homines de bien! 
II faut qu' enfin I'esprit venge 
L'honnete homrae qui n' a rien." 

One morning a tall, slender Hindoo, with an intelligent face, loi- 
tered before the door as if he wished to see or ask for something. He 
had on a kummerband, much worn, and a cotton skull cap, from be- 
neath which hung a profusion of black curls. His scanty costume 
showed, at a glance, that he difi'ered from all of his caste I had before 
seen. They are deficient in muscle, and their lower limbs are re- 
markably small, almost without calf; but the individual before me pre- 
sented that clean developement of the muscular system which would 
arrest the attention of a student of anatomy, or a statuary. Though 
small, every muscle and sinew were in strong relief. Quickly per- 
ceiving that he had attracted notice, he sprang forward with a smile, 
bowing almost to the ground, and extending the right hand, in which 
he held an earthen jar, and at the same time, touched his forehead 
with his left. He was accompanied by a man, carrying a bag, and a 
\7 



130 JONtiLEUH I'UOM MADRAS. 

boy with a t ude drum slung over his shoulder. When the master 
spirit made his bow, the man squatted upon the ground, and the boy 
began beating his instruiiient. 

*' Heh! heh! heh!" grunted the Hindoo in quick expirations, as he 
glanced his sparkling eye over the ground, and cut a caper which set 
strings of bells on his ankles to jingling. Up into the air flew the 
earthen jar, which was received on the back of the right hand, where 
it was kept dancing for a moment, and then on the extended arm 
while the other was a-kimbo. Into the air it flew again, and was 
caught between the shoulder blades, and there seized and laid upon 
the ground. 

" What is all this, Cowasjee?" 
" Master, please sae jongleur from Madras?" 
" Certainly — let us see all the wonders of India." 
•*Heh! heh! heh!" ejaculated the jongleur, dancing with two 
broad-bladed swords resembling an apothecary's spatulas, which he 
tossed in the air, catcliing them in the hand opposite to that from 
which they had been thrown, at the same time dancing to the rapid 
beating of the drum. A third sword was handed to him, and the 
three were kept in motion, the bells on his ankles jingling in time to 
the music. 

A stout bamboo, ten feet long, having a block or foot piece, secured 
four feet from one end, was handed by his companion. By this time 
a number had assembled to witness the performance. The jongleur 
very politely requested more room, and the assemblage retired to a 
sufiicient distance. He ran about ten yards and sprang upon the 
bamboo pole, placing his feet upon the block, and, holding the end 
close to his breast, stood erectj balanced nicely on this single stilt 
six feet from the ground, he managed to jump round with perfect 
facility. 

At the conclusion of this, as he did at that of each feat, he made 
his bow and then knelt upon the ground. He now rested the point 
of a sword upon his forehead, and while nicely balancing it, he put 
fifteen or twenty small beads into his mouth, then folding his arms 
behind hi§ back, strung them on a horse-hair, aided only by his lips 
and tongue. While this certainly difficult performance was acting-, 
his companion rang two bells and sang some Hindoostanee or Mah- 
ratta verses, the intonation of which brought to mind the Llaravis of 
Peru. After this, he performed several feats of balancing various 
small articles on his nose, lips, and chinj then he tossed a stone ball, 
six inches in diameter, thirty feet into the air, and caught it between 



SERPENT CHARMERS. 131 

his shoulders, wlierc it struck with a force apparently sufficient to 
knock him down. He then caused it, by the action of his muscles, 
to roll over the shouldeis and up and down the arm, in a manner to 
give it the appearance of animation. He next swallowed a sword, and 
while it was in his throat, folded his arms over his chest and danced 
for several minutes. He concluded the exhibition by slipping be- 
tween and beneath the eyelids, a button to which was suspended a 
small bag, containing the stone ball, weighing at least six pounds. 
This he raised from the ground, and for a moment svi^ung it from 
side to side, like a pendulum, but it seemed to give him pain. For 
all this entertainment he received a half rupee, and a (ew pice from 
the bystanders, and went his ways apparently well satisfied with his 
gains. 

One morning two Hindoos spread a rug before the door, and drew 
from baskets which they carried, two cobras di capello, or hooded 
snakes, five feet long; two dark colored snakes of the same size, and 
a coluber, here called, incorrectly however, boa consirictor, twelve 
feet long, all alive. The coluber appeared languid, and only inte- 
rested us on account of his size^ but the cobras, which, from their 
venomous character, attracted most attention, erected their heads and 
spread their hoods, while the other two began to run off, but were 
quickly brought back. The cobras struck several times at their keep- 
ers, who were careful to avoid their bite, though, after irritating them 
in various ways, they seized them by the tail and placed them on the 
ground beneath the rug. One of the jongleurs sat himself, cross- 
legged near it; the black snakes now began to wind themselves round 
his arms and over his shoulders, and gazed steadfastly in his face, 
while his companion squatted at a distance, where the coluber had 
coiled himself in the sun, and was apparently asleep. The chief 
snake-charmer, after caressing the snakes which were crawling so 
harmlessly over his naked body, put them on the ground, and, roll- 
ing his eyes upwards, as if internally communing with himself, mut- 
tered a few words. He then very cautiously raised up the rug and 
shook it, but both cobras had disappeared. He gazed about with a 
look of inquisitive stupidity, and hastened to a basket, and removed 
the cover, and, to our surprise, both the missing snakes reared up 
their heads. In the same fashion he charmed them away from the 
basket. His tricks were performed admirably, and well worth the 
pice bestowed upon him by the spectators. 

On two or three occasions we were amused by most ludicrous ex- 
hibitions of monkeys, that danced, and fought together with sticks, 
at the bidding of the showman. 



132 RELIGIOUS SIGNS CREED OF THE PARSEES. 

For two or three weeks we were daily entertained, just after 
breakfast, by one or another of these jongleurs, who performed 
while we enjoyed our morning cigarj for we did not take the spiced 
hookah, or hubble-bubble, so much esteemed by many Anglo-Asia- 
tics. These showmen abound in Bombay, and, indeed, in all the 
chief cities of British India, and are well worth seeing once, parti- 
cularly if the stranger have no social calls, as, unfortunately, was our 
case, to fill up his time more agreeably. While at Bombay we saw 
nothing of its English society, which, we were informed, is suffi- 
ciently large and refined to make a little scandal charming amongst 
the ladies. 

I observed that the Hindoos wore a little spot of paint, or mud, 
the size of a dime, on the forehead— that some had lines, some stains 
of clay on the face, and, noticing the same occasionally on my mus- 
sol, but not every day, I asked him what it meant. 

*' All Hindoo man, master, put that on his head 5 then master know 
him been to churchy not to master's church, but to Hindoo-man 
church." 

Upon further inquiry, I learned it is a custom among this people 
to rob the idol before which they worship of a little paint, or clay, 
and make therewith this religious sign upon the forehead, the form 
of which varies according to the caste. Most of the Banyans draw 
a line from the root of the nose directly upwards over the forehead, 
or transversely above the eyebrows. Those denominated Gentoos 
and Parboos* make round spots, just above the root of the nose, each 
one adhering constantly to the same form. 

Munchirjee, our dubash, like all of his race, was very intelligent, 
active, and fond of talking. When questioned on the subject of his 
religion, he said, " Your Honor knows, that the Parsees have no longer 
a home or a country; they are strangers in the land. We believe in 
one God, and that Zoroaster was his prophet — he is our Christ. We 
worship fire, water, the sun and moon, because they are the most 
prominent works of God, and we look upon them as his attributes, 
and believe that the worship of them will be acceptable. We may 
kindle fire, but must not extinguish it. We are enjoined not to 
touch with our lips the vessel we drink from, and always to wash 
after eating. For this there is no reason, except that such is our 
law. Strictly, we ought not to eat meat, but we only refrain from 

• Tlie words Hindoo, Gentoo, Parboo, all originally signified black, and were 
applied first by the Persians to the several nations of India. 



PARSES BIBLE— PARSEE CEMETERY. 133 

pork and beef. At seven years of age we are invested with the 
* custie,' or string of goats' hair, which encircles ihe body twice, and 
we never put it on or off without prayer. We believe in future re- 
wards and punishments, and that the latter are proportioned to the 
magnitude of our sins in this world." 

One day he brought me an illuminated Persian manuscript, full of 
plates, exhibiting the various kinds of punishment which awaited 
those who committed certain offences. Dragons, serpents, scorpions, 
and tigers are represented attacking the victims in the Parsee hell, 
urged on by demons^ while paradise is pictured, in the same work, 
full of palaces and gardens, and its inhabitants arrayed in the most 
gorgeous apparel. One plate represents the burying-ground and the 
funeral of a great man. The body is borne in an open palanquin, 
and deposited on a stone grating, which covers the grave, where it 
remains exposed to the weather, and birds of the air, until the bones 
drop through into the pit below^ The burying-ground is laid out in 
three concentric circles, within an outer wall. In the exterior circle 
males are deposited, in the next, females, and children in the third. 
There is a deep pit, or well, in the centre, wherein the bones are de- 
posited after all the flesh has decayed away. The sacred fire, which 
is never permitted to expire, is kept at the entrance of the ground, 
and all persons, except Parsees, are excluded from its holy precincts, 
as well as from their temples of worship. Many Parsees have pri- 
vate places of interment and private temples. 

Munchirjee thought all religions nearly the same, and that men fol- 
lowed the faith in which they are educated, declaring that a Parsee 
had never been known to become a Christian. He admired the Ena- 
lish custom of educating females, because it made them good com- 
panions, worth talking to, and capable of rendering a man's house a 
pleasant home. 

Parsee females are rarely seen abroad. The men are fond of dis- 
sipation and mirth, and, when they possess the means, of making fre- 
quent entertainments, spending the night in feasting and drinking, 
and viewing the performance of dancing girls, provided for the occa- 
sion. They are acknowledged to be the most intelligent race in In- 
dia, and are ranked next to the English. Their complexion is light 
yellow, their beards are sparse, and they generally wear a light mus- 
tache: their heads and stature are larger than those of any of the 
other races seen at Bombay, where one meets the Arab, and the Jew, 
whose costume is in the Turkish fashion. 

Of their fondness for style, we had an opportunity of satisfyino- 



134 r.VKSEF. MKUCll VXTS — FEMALE COSTrME. 

ourselves bv visiting; the mansion of a wealtliv merchant of the tribe. 
"We fouml it extensive, live stories high, and magnilicentlv furnished 
from tlie manufactories of Enghmd, France and Asia, in all a volup- 
tuous fancy might suggest. The terraplan is occupied in counting- 
rooms, anil the second and third iloors, in drawing-rooms, parlors, 
boudoirs, and dormitories. A kind reception awaited us, and we 
were pleased with the attentions extended bv the daughters of our 
iiost, one of seven and ilie other of ten years old. The eldest wore 
a blue satin spencer, closely litting her sliape, with tight sleeves, 
reaching to the elbow, where the edges were embroidered and fringed 
with gold bells. A mantle of yellow satin was wrapped round tiie 
body, hanging in rich drapery about the person anil limbs, while one 
end was Hung gracefully over the head after the lashion of the Spanish 
mantilla, but not in a manner to conceal the numerous pearl ear- 
rings, I think live in each ear, and a pearl of price pending from her 
nose. She stood, listening to our conversation, with her arms folded, 
resting on one foot, while the other Mas advanced a little beyond her 
robe, to display a large emerald ring on the toe next to the great one; 
her soft dark eyes, rendered more pensive by pencilling the lower 
lids witli antimony, were directed towards us. Tiie costume of her 
sister was of a similar character, but she was yet too young to mani- 
fest so much priile of dress or desire of approbation. Both were at- 
tended by their ailianced husbands, two intelligent boys, one of eleven 
and the other o( fourteen yc;irs of age. The elder couple were to 
be married in the course of the year. 

"We made frequent visits to the counting-lunise, orofTice of Messrs. 
JehauiToer and Monockjoe Nowrojee, Tarsee merchants, who transact 
all American business at Bombay. They always greeted us kindly, 
and rendered all the services we required at their Imnds. Their 
office is a low building, situated a little back from the highway on 
one side of the "Green." In front are always seen a number of 
palanquins and their naked bearers, lounging upon the ground in the 
shade, awaiting their masters. In a small front yard, planted with 
trees, we saw a number of boxes with the seams or joints pitched, 
into which they were packing a variety of drugs. Clerks and coolies 
were seen busy in taking account of. and weighing them, while a nun\- 
ber of women were seated on the ground, under a shed, sorting gum 
Arabic, myrrh, assafanida, nut galls, gum copal, &c., by picking out 
the larger pieces, or sifting the smaller fragments from the dust. On 
the left is a wooden platform, raised a foot or two from the ground, 
upon which were seated a half dozen clerks n la y/zr^j/f, using their 



CASHMERE SHAWLS. 135 

knees as a desk, with small chests of coin before them. This is tlie 
bank of the house, where money is paid, changed or received. Seve- 
ral Parsee and Banyan merchants, and as many dubashes, bearing 
umbrellas under their arms, were loitering about the door, ready to 
do the bidding of their masters. Monockjee, the younger partner, 
dressed in a white muslin frock, the high cap of his tribe, full pan- 
taloons of scarlet silk over fine white socks, and long pointed shoes, 
sat in a well cushioned chair, beneath a small punka, kept waving 
over his head, conversing with two or three American or European 
supercargoes, who were reclining on sofas around him. Such was 
the scene I now allude to, and such it appeared every day. 

At our recjuest the shawl merchants and venders of Persian rugs 
were sent for, and in a few minutes twenty coolies, bearing on their 
heads great bundles, done up in white muslin, passed into an ad- 
joining room, followed by half the number of Eastern merchants, 
and a half dozen brokers, or appraisers. The bundles were speed- 
ily untied, and a thousand shawls from Cashmere were revealed to 
our inspection, each merchant drawing forth and exhibiting his goods, 
lauding their beauties and qualities in the Hindoostanee, no mat- 
ter whether understood or not. The scene is an exciting one, for 
they all talk at once. One throws a splendid shawl over his shoul- 
ders, and struts to the light to show it off, at the same time look- 
ing backwards, and calling attention to its points; while another, 
holding a shawl upon his outstretched hands, leans forward over his 
pack, looking you in the face, beseeching you to feel how soft its 
texture, to examine the border and the beauty of its colors. One is 
bewildered with such a display, and { can imagine that a young lady 
might be crazed at the sight. Here were long shawls, square shawls, 
large and small, of pure white, green, blue, yellow, orange, red and 
black; some having four colors so nicely quartered, that, by care in 
folding, they might be made to show for as many different shawls. 
All were brilliant in color and beautifully embroidered. 

The prices of the shawls vary from one hundred, to six thousand 
rupees, and of the scarfs, three yards long by a quarter wide, from 
six to twenty rupees, according to quality. The merchants always 
demand two or three times these prices, but to adjust all differences 
on this subject, it is referred to a broker or appraiser, vv'hose opinion 
is received as final. When the matter is about being decided, the 
merchant and broker take each other by the hand, beneath the shawl 
under consideration, and for a few moments look each other in the 
face, the former with an inquiring gaze, the latter with an air of in- 



136 CASHMERE SHAWLS. 

diJOterence. In this manner intelligence is mutually conveyed in si- 
lence. Sometimes the broker ends the communication by tossing the 
shawl to the merchant with a gesture of contemptuous derision^ or, 
by literally forcing it into your hands, announcing the price to be 
paid, while the merchant, as if unwilling to part with it on such 
terms, still retains his hold upon it, but almost always yielding to the 
appraiser's decision in the course of a few moments. In our case, 
Monockjee, whose word seemed to be law, very kindly told us to se- 
lect whatever suited our fancies, and he would *' settle the price." 

Cashmere shawls are manufactured in the valley of Cashmere alone, 
whence they are sent to Surat, Bengal, or to other parts of India, and 
find their way through these channels all over the world. The ma- 
nufacture gives employment to 50,000 men, and activity to 16,000 
looms. The wool of which they are made is not produced in the 
country, but is brought from Thibet, where it is an article of exten- 
sive traffic, regulated with great jealousy; it is originally of a dark 
gray color, and is bleached in Cashmere. The yarn of this wool is 
stained with such colors as may be deemed best suited for sale, and 
after being woven the piece is once washed. The borders, which usu- 
ally display a variety of figures and colors, are attached to the shawls 
after fabrication, but in so nice a manner, that the junction is not dis- 
cernible. The shawls usually consist of three sizes, two of which, 
the long and small square, which are in common use in India, are the 
sorts usually sent to England; the other, long and very narrow, with 
a large mixture of black color in them, are worn as a girdle by many 
of the Asiatics. They are generally sold in pairs, and the price 
varies according to the quality, and is considerably enhanced by the 
introduction of flower work. For the English market, those with co- 
lored grounds and handsome rich borders and flowers are most es- 
teemed; the plain white shawls being closely imitated in England, are 
seldom in demand. According to Mr. Starchey, not more than 
80,000 shawls are made, on an average, at Cashmere, in one year.* 
From the first of January, to the seventeenth of October, 1835, the 
number exported from Bombay, was 3,419. 

It may not be out of place to add here a word or two in relation to 
the history of the Parsees, before taking a final leave of them. 

In the seventh century, the Mohammedans dethroned the last king 
of Persia, of the dynasty of the Sassanides. Many of his vassals, dis- 
contented with their conquerors, took refuge in Khuzistan, whence, 

* Milbuni's Oriental Commerce. 



HISTORICAL SKETCil, AND CHARACTER OF THE FARbEES. iST 

at the end of a hundred years, they went to Ormuz, and soon after- 
wards sailed for India, and arrived safely at Diu. Dissatisfied with 
this asylum, they again committed themselves to the waves, and were 
borne to the smiling shores of Guzerat, the peninsula formed between 
the Indus and Malabar, or, rather, between the gulfs of Cutch and 
Cambay. The Prince commanding there, would not consent to re- 
ceive the wanderers, except on condition tiiat they would reveal the 
mysteries of their faith, give up their arms and speak the language 
of the country; that their women should appear unveiled in public, 
and their weddings should take place at night-fall, in conformity to 
the usage of the place. As these terms of capitulation required no- 
thing which was in opposition to the religion they professed, the refu- 
gees at once accepted them. 

Laborious habits, contracted and perpetuated through necessity, 
made them prosperous. Sufficiently wise to avoid interference in the 
aifuirs of the government and in war, they enjoyed profound peace 
in the midst of many revolutions. This circumspection, connected 
with their well being, served to increase their number. They always 
formed, under the name of Parsees, a separate people, establishing it 
as a rule for themselves never to meddle with the Indians, and to 
maintain those religious principles for the sake of which they had 
been obliged to leave their country. These principles are those of 
the celebrated Zoroaster, though now somewhat modified by time, ig- 
norance and avarice. 

The Guzeratees imbibed, from their example, a portion of their in- 
dustry and activity. Fields of grain, of sugar and of indigo, spread 
over the face of the country; and silk and cotton fabrics were made 
in the greatest perfection. 

The Parsees enjoyed great respectability of character. They were 
well made, robust and indefatigable; they were capable of all kinds 
of labor, but excelled in agriculture, and in marine architecture. Such 
was their mildness and rectitude, that there is no instance of their be- 
ing cited before a judge for any act of violence, or breach of con- 
tract. Serenity of mind was pictured in their countenance, and their 
cheerful disposition displayed itself in conversation. They were fond 
of poetry. They had no temples, but morning and evening, they as- 
sembled on the high-w^ays, or near some fountain, where they wor- 
shipped the rising and setting sun. Instead of burying their dead, 
as was the custom with the Indians, they were exposed upon high 
towers to become the food of birds of prey. They were generous to- 
wards all classes of men, without regard to their religious opinions; 
18 



138 CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 

and thej often displayed their chanty and benevolence by purchasing 
slaves, and, after instructing them in some useful art, giving them 
their liberty. Their number, their union and their wealth, made them 
at times suspected by the government, but suspicion could not long 
exist against a people so peaceful and moderate in all their conduct.* 
From Guzerat they have been carried, by their spirit of commer- 
cial enterprise, to all parts of India; and wherever found, are remark- 
able for the traits of character which distino-uished them in the land 
that gave them an asylum from the persecution of the followers of 
Mohammet. 



CHAPTER XV. 

SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN. 

Novembert 1835. 

If I were permitted to offer a word of friendly advice to my 
reader, I would say, ' should your fortunes ever lead you to this part 
of India, never leave it without visiting the islands of Elephanta and 
Salsette. You will be paid for your pains by the sight of what may 
be looked upon as remains of a by-gone world, beheld in the statuary, 
contained in the monolithic excavations found upon the above named 
islands.' 

The island, called by the natives Garipora, and Elephanta by the 
Portuguese, (the first Europeans who visited it,) from the great sculp- 
tured elephant near the place of landing, lies about six miles east 
north-east from Bombay castle. It is one mile square; its surface is 
mountainous and has a long valley crossing its centre. 

One morning, at half past six o'clock, our party, under the 
guidance of Captain Roberts, embarked in two bunder boats, for the 
far famed island of Elephanta. The bunder boat is a large launch, 
with snug stern sheets, roofed over and shut in with blinds, and 

* Establecimientos Ultramarinos, Tom. III. Madrid, 1786. 



CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 139 

furnished with comfortable lounges. Our boat was manned bj nine 
Mussulmans, in white turbans, blue frocks, and striped pantaloons* 
The oars were straight poles with pieces of round plank at their ex- 
tremities. After a pleasant sail of an hour, we landed and walked 
up the valley which was partly covered with rice fields. About half 
way across the island, on the left, there are two minor caves, now 
half choked up with earth and rubbish. One presents a mass of 
rock, projecting from the hill-side, with an open space between it 
and the level ground, about six feet high and fifty or more long. 
On making our way to it, through the thick growing shrubbery 
which conceals it from the by-passer who follows the beaten track, 
we were satisfied that this projecting rock had been supported by 
columns, forming a portico, from which a door opened into a large 
square room. On each side of the door way is the statue of a ' dor- 
pal ' or warder, and over it are sculptured a number of minor Hin- 
doo deities, all more or less mutilated. At either end of the portico 
is a small chamber or excavation. 

After walking nearly a mile we found ourselves in front of the 
celebrated monolithic temple, but were disappointed as well as sur- 
prised to find, that instead of descent, there is a gentle ascent to its 
entrance. The side of a hill, about one hundred feet high, has been 
cut through its dark rocky structure, into a perpendicular wall or 
face of sufficient width, leaving on either hand a spur of rock, or 
jamb, now covered with green sward and clambering plants, forming 
a kind of area in front of the cave. Between these spurs, is the 
opening, fifty-five feet from east to west, and about seventeen feet 
high. The entablature of naked rock, originally supported by two 
pilasters and two columns, of which one only is standing, rises many 
feet perpendicularly^ and its summit, which is also the verge of the 
hill, is crowned by grass and shrubbery, and several vines hang 
down over its face, to the opening. Before the cave lie several 
broken pillars, and rubbish, from behind which, to our right, eddied 
upwards a column of smoke, proceeding from the temporary kitchen 
of our servants, who had been despatched hither the evening pre- 
vious, with the implements and essentials of breakfast. 

We stood for some minutes in admiration of the view before us. 
The rows of pillars, dimly seen in the interior of the cave, leads one 
to fancy he is viewing an extensive hall or saloon. The first im- 
pression is of wonder, accompanied by a sort of mental effort to con- 
ceive the labor and time, an excavation so vast, into the solid rock, 
must have costj and on farther examination, one is struck with the 



140 CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 

I proportion preserved in its relative parts, and with the modern form 

of the door frames. 

The terraplan of the temple is nearly in the form of a cross. The 
floor has been cut in medallion figures; the roof, or ceiling, which is 
fiat, varying in different places, from fifteen to seventeen and a half 
feet in height, had been once white, but is now covered with dust. 
The distance from the front entrance to the opposite wall is one hun- 
dred and thirty and a half feetj and from the east to the west en- 
trance, both now closed by a modern wall, is one hundred and thirty- 
three feet. The roof was supported by sixteen pilasters and twenty- 
six pillars, planted in rows, but not equidistant, of which fifteen are 
still standing, the rest having been thrown down and mutilated. The 
bases, or lower third of the pillars, are square; the corners are sur- 
mounted by small figures of Garrish and Flartik, gods of the Hindoo 
mythology. All the pillars are written over, more or less, by Eng- 
lish visiters, who have left their names to record their presence. 

The back v/all, which is parallel with the front, is divided into 
three square compartments, the centre one of which is a deep chapel, 
or square niche, almost filled by a colossal bust. The figure has 
three heads, one facing front and the others to opposite sides, toge- 
ther with the neck and shoulders, leaving one to imagine that the 
lower part of the statue is buried beneath the floor of the temple. 
The right hand and part of the arm are seen, as if pushed up through 
the earth, grasping a cobra di capello, which, with spread hood, ap- 
pears to be gazing in the face which looks eastward. The height of 
the bust is seventeen feet ten inches, and is the best piece of statu- 
ary in the cave; its elaborate workmanship and fine proportions have 
been eulogized by all visiters, while they have found fault with the 
other figures, which are wanting in anatomical correctness. Such is 
the celebrated trimurti, or triformis, which the Portuguese spared, 
under the idea that it was a representation of the holy trinity, when, 
in their zeal to destroy the idols and worship of heretics, they muti- 
lated the temple, by firing great guns into it. 

In the lintel of the door-frame of this chapel are two mortices, in 
which the pintals of a great door might have turned. On each side 
of the door-way is the statue of a warder of gigantic size. 

The compartments, or rather panels, on the right and left, con- 
tain groups of figures, representing Shivii and Parviiti, the chief god 
and goddess of Hindoo worship, for an account of which the reader 
is referred to " AVard's View of the Hindoos," which should be read 
before visiting any of the temples of this people. In front of the 



CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 141 

chapel and panels there is a vestibule, and at either extremity of it 
a small square chamber, the doors of which face each other. Thej 
contained nothing but rubbish; they were the only parts of the cave 
which we, who are not enthusiastically antiquarian in our tastes, re- 
quired lights to examine. Beyond these rooms, both to the right and 
left, still keeping along the back wall, are panels filled with the 
figures of gods. 

Near the middle of the western side of the cave there is a room 
twenty feet square; each of its four walls is pierced by a door-way, 
approachable from the main temple by three steps, and guarded by 
warders. In the centre of this apartment is a stone, about seven feet 
square, of the same rock as the temple, pierced by another stone, of 
much finer and smoother structure, about fifteen inches square at the 
base, and three feet high. This is the "•lingii," one of the forms of 
Shivii, which is symbolic of the procreative attribute, seen through- 
out nature, and is adored as the power emanating from Briimhu 
alone, the creator of all things. Stones of different texture are used 
in the "lingii," to be, in a measure, typical of the two sexes. On 
the top of the vertical stone, which is rounded at the summit, we 
found fresh flowers, and a few grains of rice, the recent offering of 
some poor Hindoo. 

The phallus of the Greeks and the lingii are strikingly alike, 
and perhaps they may have a similar, if not the same origin, both 
being simulacra memhri virills, the mention of which, among the 
ancients, never conveyed any impure thought or lascivious reflection, 
though Mr. Ward asserts that such is not the case among the Hin- 
doos. 

On both the eastern and western sides of the principal cave are 
open courts, formed by closing up the ancient entrances by modern 
walls, as above stated. Both of these courts lead to smaller caves, 
now partially filled with water, in one of which is another lino-ii 
and a group of gods, sculptured in bas-relief; but it is not my pur- 
pose to attempt to give any thing more than a general idea of this 
truly astonishing work. 

Of the degree of genius and art displayed in this temple, and the 
figures around it, very different opinions have been expressed; some 
are disposed to rate them very high, and speak in rapturous terms of 
the execution and design of several of the compartments. *' To me 
it appears," says Mr. Erskine, with whom I fully concur, "that 
while the whole conception and plan of the temple are extremely 
grand and magnificent, and while the outline and disposition of the 



142 VISIT TO SALSETTE. 

several figures indicate great talent and ingenuity, the execution and 
finishing of the figures, in general, (though some of them prove the 
sculptor to have great merit,) fall below the general idea, and are 
often very defective. The figures have somewhat of rudeness and 
want of finish; the proportions are sometimes lost, the attitudes 
forced, and every thing indicates the infancy of the art, though a 
vigorous infancy." 

After a hasty survey of the temple, w^e were summoned to break- 
fast. The table was spread just within the cave, near the eastern 
side, where a vacant niche served us for a side board — the same, we 
were told, used by the pic-nic party which Captain Hall has cele- 
brated. 

By twelve o'clock our examination, but not our curiosity, was 
over, and I stretched myself upon a sofa: however, unlike Captain 
Hall, my imagination was not sufficiently warmed, or my slumbers 
were too deep, to have the honor of a visitation of the trimurti or 
any of Shivu's tribe. 

After dining gayly and sumptuously in the temple, on a " chow- 
der," prepared under the superintendence of one of the party, after 
the fashion of New England, on occasions of the kind, we bade adieu 
to this curious ruin of Hindoo antiquity, to prevent the farther muti- 
lation of which, a propensity peculiar to the English and their de- 
scendants, the government has stationed a sergeant, who dwells hard 
by, as curator of the once holy precincts. 

On the morning of the 24th I had the pleasure of joining Major 
William Miller (of the artillery) at Parol, with Commodore Ken- 
nedy, Captain Stribling, and Mr. Roberts. At six o'clock, A. M., 
we set out in carriages for Salsette, to visit the monolithic caves of 
Kenery. On this occasion we were the guests of Major Miller, 
whose urbanity and unremitted attention throughout the excursion 
will long be, with us all, a subject of pleasing recollection. The day 
was pleasant, and our road led through several villages and over a 
viaduct thrown between the two islands, offering many pretty land- 
scapes to the view. At eight o'clock, A. M., we reached Vehar, or 
Clare-abad — Claretown — so named in honor of Lord Clare, where 
we had an accession to our party, which now numbered eight gen- 
tlemen, besides not less than thirty servants, variously employed. 
They had been sent forward the evening before, and a part of them 
had already set off for the caves, bearing on their heads tables, chairs, 
and all the materials for breakfast. 

We soon followed, either on horseback or in palanquins, over an 



CAVES OF KENERY. 143 

irregular bridle path, winding through thickets or jungle, sometimes 
descending vales, and again rising gentle slopes. Vegetation was 
rife every where. Palms, and the wide-spreading banyan, were 
often passed; and we saw several palms which appeared to be grow- 
ing out of the top of the latter kind of tree. The distance from 
Clare-abad to the caves, in a direct line, is three and three quarter 
miles, but the winding of the road increases it to at least five; the 
whole distance from Bombay is about twenty miles; quite far enough 
to ride for an appetite to breakfast. 

We alighted at the foot of a large tree, in a deep ravine. There 
was no appearance of the caves, for vegetation was so luxuriant that 
even the path to them was concealed. The ascent is steep, and over 
a kind of shingle, composed of fragments of loose stones, resembling 
the bed of a mountain torrent. When we had mounted, perhaps a 
hundred feet, we emerged suddenly in front of the caves. The first 
sight of the two boldly sculptured columns, supporting a plain, solid 
entablature, over which there is hollowed out an oblong square, is 
strikingly picturesque, being hidden from view, during the ascent, 
by overshadowing shrubs and trees. Within these are two ante- 
rooms, each about thirty-five feet broad by twelve deep, and beyond 
them an unfinished apartment, perhaps twenty-six feet in depth. 
The front screen is pierced by three doors, with as many windows 
above them, and the wall which separates the second ante-room from 
the inner chamber has three doors in it, and over the central one, a 
large open arch, rising nearly to the roof. Beneath it are small holes, 
resembling those intended to receive joists. In this cave all is plain, 
without figure or ornament. 

From this an irregular excavation is continued to the principal 
temple. It contains two " dhagopes," solid masses of stone, in the 
form of a cupola, which are other forms of the lingu, as well as nu- 
merous figures of Boudha, and minor deities, sculptured in relief 
upon the walls; for a minute and accurate account of which, as well 
as of those in the other caves, the reader is referred to a paper on 
the subject, by Mr. Henry Salt, published in the first volume of the 
** Transactions of the Literary Society of Bombay." In the same vo- 
lume may be seen the result of an examination of Elephanta, by 
William Erskine, Esq.* 

Immediately adjoining the irregular excavation stands the great 

* In making up this general account of the caves, both papers referred to in 
the text have been ft-eely used, particularly for the measurements. 



144 CAVES OF KENERY. 

cave, which, from its resemblance to a Gothic building, or from a tra- 
dition that it was converted to that use bj the Portuguese, is com- 
monly called the " church." There is in front of it a small tank, 
hewn out of the living rock. An ascent of a half dozen steps leads 
to a portal, which was once either arched over or higher than at pre- 
sent, as the broken figures on each side sufficienllj show. This 
opens upon an area, unequally square, which form they were com- 
pelled to adopt on account of the shelving of the rock; for, in other 
parts, the architects have consulted regularity in the general plan. 
On each side of the area stands a lofty column; one of which is con- 
nected to the rock. The capital of that on the right sustains three 
lions couchans, and the pedestal is ornamented with carvings, in re- 
lief, while that on the left is surmounted by dwarfish figures. The 
whole space of the farther end of the area is occupied by the front^ 
facing of the cave, which is divided by plain columns, into three 
square portals below, and five windows atwve. They open into a 
vestibule, at either end of which stands, in a recess, the arch of which 
is made to appear, as if supported by fluted columns, a statue of 
Boudha, twenty-three feet high, carved from the living rock. These 
gigantic bodies stand in such bold relief as almost to lead one to be- 
lieve they were placed there. In spite of being out of proportion, 
their air, size, and general arrangement; the laziness of the attitude, 
the simplicity of their drapery, the suitableness of their situation, and 
the plainness of the style in which they are executed, contrasted 
with a want of taste in the ornaments around, contribute to give 
them an eftect of grandeur and expression, not always attainable even 
by the best sculptors. The screen is covered with a variety and a 
great number of rudely executed figures. In this vestibule there 
are two inscriptions, which, we were informed, have been satisfacto- 
rily made out. Three door-ways lead from the vestibule into the 
principal cave, which, in its greatest extent, is eighty-three feet long 
by thirty broad, and is circular at the farther end. A close colonnade, 
consisting of thirty-four pillars, runs round the whole, at six feet 
from the wall. From the top of the columns springs a circular arch, 
roughly cut, which opens into the vestibule, and forms the roof of 
the centre compartment or nave. The roof of the aisles, formed be- 
tween the wall and colonnade, is flat, and of the height of the pillars, 
which is fifteen feet. At the farther extremity of the nave is a solid 
dhagope, forty-nine feet in circumference. The regularity and effect 
of the temple are marred hy the unfinished state of the columns, one 
half of them being plain shafts. The figures on the tops of those 



THE CITY OF CANOUIN. 145 

finished consist chieilj of lions and elephants, but they are small, and 
by no means well executed. 

LoRg before we had finished our examination, which broke in 
upon the repose of hundreds of bats, suspended in clusters from the 
vaulted roof, and set them flitting about over head with a roaring 
noise, breakfast was smoking on the table, set in the vestibule. 
Our morning ride gave a zest to the good things before us; such as 
the worshippers of Boudha never dreamed would profane the pre- 
cincts of his holy temple. 

Having leisurely despatched our meal, we turned our steps to the 
eastward, and followed a path which ascends from the church into a 
deep ravine, nearly a mile in extent, on both sides of which are nu- 
merous caves; some consisting of two or three plain chambers, 
which communicate one with the other; and some of very consider- 
able extent filled with figures of gods. There is one, called, I be- 
lieve, the Durbar cave, seventy feet long by thirty wide, which has 
a veranda in front. It contains eleven chambers or dormitories, 
which communicate with the principal hall; on the whole, bearing a 
close resemblance to a caravanserai, or a Spanish inn. So numerous 
are these caves, that the place has obtained the name of the " City 
ofCanorin." In fact, the whole hill seems to have been a temple 
for religious worship; its sides are cut into steps, now time and 
weather worn, leading to various excavations, a description of which 
would be equal in tedious detail to that of the houses individually of 
a large town. In the bottom or bed of the ravine, there are several 
tanks of clear water; indeed, small tanks of water are very common 
throughout this monolithic city, and in some of them we saw fish. 
On the eastern side of the hill, there is a terrace commanding a fine 
view of the surrounding country. The soil upon the hill is very thin, 
and only sufficient to sustain scattering blades of rank grass and a 
few cactus plants. 

About four o'clock P. M., when the sun's rays had become less 
intense, Commodore Kennedy and Mr. Roberts entered their palan- 
quins, preceded by the attendants on foot, bearing tables, chairs, and 
baskets of fragments and utensils of our household, and we bade 
farewell — vale^ vale longmn vale — to the temples of Kenery and the 
city of Canorin. We reached Clare-abad at sunset, and soon were 
seated round the social board. The wines were cooled with ice 
from the United States, lately brought here for the first time. The 
usual mode of cooling wine in India, is to sew a flannel covering over 
the decanter or bottle, and wet it with a solution of nitre. 
19 



146 CAVES OF JOGHEYSEER AMBOLEE BANDORA. 

In pursuance of arrangements made in the evening, at daylight the 
next day, we mounted and struck across the country to Ambolee, (a 
scattering village consisting of a Portuguese church and a few huts,) to 
visit the caves of Jogheyseer. After a pleasant ride of four miles, 
we alighted at a house prepared for our reception; where we found, 
that the Commodore and Mr. Roberts had already arrived. And 
what seemed almost incredible, the servants were also there with 
their loads of furniture, and were busily preparing breakfast, in the 
same easy manner as if they had been long domiciliated on the spot. 

The caves of Jogheyseer are about two miles in a north-easterly 
direction from the village, and we found it a pleasant morning walk 
from the place of our bivouack. Over their western entrance, almost 
concealed by shrubs, is a natural arch, formed by the branches of a 
banyan tree, which stretching across the path, have taken root on the 
opposite side, giving it a very picturesque appearance. A descent 
of seven steps leads to an ante-chamber, divided by two pillars 
and three pilasters on each side, into three compartments. The 
figures on the walls have nearly disappeared under the crumbling 
hand of time; but still enough remains to show, that the frame and 
cornice of the door, opening into the principal cave, were once fin- 
nished in a variety of sculpture neatly executed. The great cave is 
one hundred and twenty feet square. Eighteen feet inwards are 
twenty pillars, forming an inner square; within which, there is a 
chamber twenty feet square, containing a lingii. On the eastern 
side there is a small cave, separated by an unfinished court, open to 
the sky; and on the south side runs a veranda, supported by ten large 
columns. These temples were wet and very damp, and the sculp- 
ture, which has been well executed, is falling fast to decay. From 
the number of bats that have possessed themselves of these caves, 
we may infer they are not now very frequently visited. 

After breakfast we again set forward for Bandora, distant eight 
miles, and our Mussol ran ahead of the horse, and continued to do 
so nearly all the way to Bombay, resting only while crossing the 
ferry between the islands, and an hour at Parol. He must have run 
at least eighteen miles, barefoot and under a burning sun. The 
country between Ambolee and Bandora is level, and generally 
planted with rice. At intervals are erected crosses, time-worn in 
appearance, the work of the first Portuguese settlers, to guard them 
against the heresies of the land, 

Bandora is a quiet, pretty village, full of gardens and cocoanut 
trees, situated nearly opposite to Mahim, from which it is divided by 



THE MONOLITHIC CAVES OF INDIA. 147" 

the strait flowing between the islands of Salsette and Bombay. Our 
carriages were ferried over in a short time, and we soon rode 
through Mahim, a pretty hamlet almost entirely shaded by groves of 
cocoanuts. A drive of three miles brought us to Parelj and we 
reached Bombay for dinner, delighted with the excursion and with 
what we had seen. 

After an examination of the several caves and temples of Ele- 
phanta, Kenery, and Jogheyseer, several questions of a speculative 
nature present themselves to the mind. Who and what were the 
people who excavated them.^ How far had they advanced in the arts 
of civilization? Are there no traces of a similar style of architecture 
in other ruins on the face of the globe? Were the laborers slaves or 
freemen? Was not the rock in a soft state when the caves were sculp- 
tured? . c 

Many of the figures have so much the appearance of having been 
moulded of clay, that we are led to infer that the rock was not 
so hard and unyielding as at present. Frequent but unsuccessful 
attempts have been made by visiters, to carry away mementos of 
Hindoo antiquity, as is proved by the number of mutilated figures 
every where seen in these temples. Our systematic and patient la- 
bor with chisel and hammer was rewarded with only a few imperfect 
fragments. It seems probable that the rock was soft when it 
emerged from the waters. " In a manuscript account of Malabar, 
ascribed to the Bishop of Virapli, the seat of a celebrated Roman 
Catholic seminary, the writer observes, that, by the accounts of the 
learned natives of that coast, it is little more than 2300 years since 
the sea came up to the foot of the Jukem or Gaut mountains; and 
this he thinks extremely probable, from the nature of the soil, and 
the quantity of sand, oyster-shells and other fragments, met with on 
making excavations. It is not unreasonable to believe that the 
whole coast was elevated by subterranean agency; for, so recently 
as 1805, the bed of part of the sea and of the Indus was permanently 
changed by an earthquake, near Cutch, on the coast of Bombay."* 

Where are they now, who did so much in honor of their gods.^-— 
who toiled as if they thought — 

" What speaks of Heaven should by no means be brittle, 
But strong and lasting-, till no tongue can tell 
Their names who reared it." 

And now ' no tongue can tell ' who carved the living rock into 
emples for the worship of high Heaven. 

♦BakeweU's Geolog-y. New Haven, 1833, 



148 THE MONOLITHIC CAVES OF INDIA 

It seems, that originally the Hindoos acknowledged but one great 
first cause — the architect divine. Observing men, perhaps priests, 
remarked at an early period, the three great leading features in the 
phases of nature to be creation, duration or preservation, and decay, 
which they individuated and personified, under the names of Bramhu, 
Vishnoo, and Shivii. As in other countries, poets seized upon these 
leading ideas, and begot from them minor attributes; which, to make 
more tangible to the unthinking, as well as to please the allegorical 
taste of the times, were also personified, until the number of gods 
extended almost to infinity;— stated by Mr. Ward to be 330,000,000. 
For the lives and deeds of this host of deities, we are indebted to the 
extravaaant imaginations and wild fancies of their historians, who 
were believed, at least by the profanicm vulgus, because they told 
what was incredible — " Rien est si fortement cru comme ce qui est 
incroyable.'' 

In the early period of its prevalence, the Hindoo system was pro- 
bably pure and elevated in its character; but as men became vicious 
they grew vulgar, and sunk the rites and ceremonies of the faith to a 
level with their own minds; until the present time, when we see 
their idols, composed of wood, and sheltered in hovels, instead of 
brass and stone, placed in temples, hewn from the living rock; and 
in a style that betokened a comparatively advanced state of civiliza- 
tion as well as great populousness. But there is nothing in these 
temples, to tell us in what age or in what dynasty they were com- 
pleted. "One fact," says Mr. Erskine, in his account of the cave- 
temple of Elephanta, already referred to; " One fact is worthy of notice, 
that a greater number of magnificent cave-temples present themselves 
in a small space on this coast, than are to be met with in any other part 
of India. The caves of Elephanta, those of Kenery, Ambolee, and 
some others on the island of Salsette, the fine cave of Carli, on the 
road by the Bor Ghaut to Poonah, the stiii more extensive and mag- 
nificent ranges at Ellora, not to mention some smaller cave-temples 
in the Concan, and near the Adjanta pass, are all on Mahratta ground, 
and seem to show the existence of some great and powerful dynasty, 
which must have reigned many years to complete works of such la- 
bor and extent." 

**It has long been an object of inquiry among scholars, to discover 
the channel through which civilization, science, and an acquaintance 
with the liberal arts, first reached the valley which is watered by the 
Nile. Without analyzing the numerous hypotheses, which have been 
successively formed and abandoned, or repeating the various conjee- 



COMPARED WITH THOSE OF EGYPT. 149 

tures which have, age after age, amused the ingenuity of the learned, 
we shall state at once, as the most probable of the opinions that have 
been entertained on this subject, that the stream of knowledge accom- 
panied the progress of commerce, along the banks of those great ri- 
vers which fall into the Persian gulf, and thence along the coast of 
Arabia, to the shores of the Red Sea. There is the best reason to be- 
lieve, that these passes or natural defile^, which connect the sea just 
named with the river of Egypt, witnessed the earliest emigration of co- 
lonists from Asia; who, in the pursuits of commerce, or in search of 
more fertile lands, or of mountains enriched with gokl, found their 
way into Nubia and Abyssinia. Mean time, it is probable, a similar 
current set eastward across the mouths of the Indus, carrying arts 
and institutions of a corresponding character into the countries whicli 
stretch from that river to the great peninsula of Hindoostan. 

*' The most obvious confirmation of the opinion now stated, may 
be drawn from the striking^ resemblance which is known to subsist 
between the usages, the superstitions, the arts and the mythology of 
the ancient inhabitants of western India, and those of the first set- 
tlers on the upper Nile. The temples of Nubia, for example, exhibit 
the same features, whether as to the style of architecture, or the form 
of worship, which must have been practised by them, with the simi- 
lar buildings which liave been recently examined in the neighborhood 
of Bombay. In both cases, they consist of vast excavations hewn 
out of the solid body of a hill or mountain, and are decorated with 
huge figures, which indicate the same powers of nature, or serve as 
emblems to denote the same qualities in the ruling spirits of the uni- 
verse. 

*' As a farther proof of this hypothesis, w^e are informed that the 
Sepoys who joined the British army in Egypt, under Lord Hutchin- 
son, imagined that they found their own temples in the ruins of Den- 
dera, and were greatly exasperated at the natives for their neglect of 
the ancient deities, whose images are still preserved. So strongly, 
indeed, were they themselves impressed with this identity, that they 
proceeded to perform their devotions with all the ceremonies prac- 
tised in their own land. There is a resemblance, too, in the minor in- 
struments of their superstition, — the lotus, the lingam, and the ser- 
pent — w^hich can hardly be regarded as accidental; but it is, no doubt, 
in the immense extent, the gigantic plan, the vast conception which 
appear in all their sacred buildings that we most readily discover the 
influence of the same lofty genius, and the endeavor to accomplish 
the same mighty object. The excavated temple at Guerfeh Hassan ^ 



150 MONOLITHIC CAVES OF INDIA AND EGYPT. 

for instance, reminds every traveller of the cave of Elephanta. The 
resemblance, indeed, is singularly striking; as are, in fact, all the lead- 
ing; principles in Egyptian architecture to that of the Hindoos. They 
diff'er only, it has been observed, in those details of the decorative 
parts, which trifling points of difference in their religious creeds seem 
to have suggested to each; but many even of the rites and emblems 
are precisely the same, especially those of the temples dedicated to 
Iswara, the Indian Bacchus. In truth, in most respects they are so 
much alike, that the same workmen might almost be supposed to 
have superintended the execution of them in both countries. In In- 
dia, and in Egypt, the hardest granite mountains have been cut down 
in the most striking, if not the most beautiful, fronts of temples 
adorned with sculpture. In both countries, large masses of rock have 
been excavated into hollow chambers, whose sides are decorated with 
columns and statues of men and animals, carved out of the same 
stone; and in each, are found solid blocks of many hundred tons 
weight, separated from the adjoining mountain, and lifted up into the 
air. By whom and by what means these wonderful efforts have been 
accomplished, is a mystery sunk too deep in the abyss of time ever 
to be revealed. To Greece, neither country is indebted for any part 
of its architecture, while she has evidently taken many hints from 
them. Except at Alexandria and Antinoe, no edifice strictly Gre- 
cian, appears in Egypt. But we need only compare the monolithic 
temples of Nubia with those of Mahabulipoor, the excavations of 
Guerfeh Hassan with those of Elephanta, and the grottos of Hadjur 
Silsili, as described by Pococke, with the caverns of EUora, to be 
convinced that these sacred monuments of ancient days derived their 
orio-in from the same source."* 

* Russel's View of Ancient and Modern Egypt. 



SKETCHES IN CEYLON. 



THE COAST <J¥ HlNDOObTAN. 153 



CHAPTER XVI. 



VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST OF HINDOOSTAN, AND SKETCHES IN 

CEYLON, 



December, 1835. 

At sunrise on the fourth of December, accompanied by the Enter- 
prise, we got under way and bade farewell to the British capital of 
western India, leaving few behind to regret our departure, or from 
wliom we separated with emotion. A large number of the officers 
and men were suftering from fever, brought on by exposure, during 
tlieir night watches, to the land winds, which came to us loaded with 
miasmata, exhaled from the marshy lands over which they blew. 
Scarcely an individual on board escaped attack, and for three months 
the sick list numbered nearly one-fourth of the crewj and though se- 
vere in its symptoms, it yielded in every case to the treatment adopted | 
>vhich, together with all that belongs to the medical history of the 
cruise, the author hopes to lay before the profession at some future 
day. 

For the benefit of the regular land and sea breezes we kept close 
to the land, fanning gently along on our way. The coast of the Con- 
can presented diversified and various landscapes of an undulated coun- 
try near the beach, with a back ground formed by the ranges of the 
Ghaut mountains rising, blue in the distance, towards the clouds. At 
long intervals white dwellings were indistinctly perceived, peeping 
from beneath green groves of cocoanuts, and, near the shore, the white 
sail of the fisherman's canoe was seen shining brightly in the sun. 
On the sixth we passed the site of Goa, and of Calicut on the ele- 
venth, places that have attracted no little attention, from having been 
20 



154 APPROACH COLOMBO. 

the first amono- the conquests of the Portuguese in the cast. The 
breeze was so light, and the sea so smooth, that canoes came along- 
side, laden with vegetables, fruits, live birds in cages, baskets made 
of rattan and various little articles, which were offered for sale at 
moderate prices, by dark colored natives, dressed in very small kum- 
merbands, and broad-rimmed, low-crowned hats of cocoanut leaves. 
Among the birds were several of a species called " miners," remark- 
able for having a comb and gills of bright yellow, finely contrasted 
with the shining black of their plumage: they partake somewhat of 
the character of the parrot, inasmuch as, it is said, they may be rea- 
dily taught to repeat words. Their natural note is comparable to the 
voice of a young pig. 

In the afternoon we passed Cochin, which was a considerable place 
when the Portuguese first made themselves masters of it, but was 
afterwards despoiled by the Dutch, and is now of little note. From 
this place the port-register was sent on board, and we were requested 
to record the name of the ship, and any news we might bring. Ves- 
sels bound to the southward and eastward from Bombay, are obliged 
to keep close in to the shore for the sake of the wind^ and the plan 
of boarding them en passant must frequently give news at places not 
often visited by vessels directly from the westward of the cape of 
Good Hope. A register was sent on board from Alipee, a town a 
little to the southward. Canoes boarded us from Cochin, with ve- 
getables, fruit, parrots, monkeys, &c., their masters being, like our for- 
mer visiters, dark Indians, with the difference of their wearing white 
turbans instead of hats. 

As we approached cape Comorin the breeze grew strong, and we 
passed the southern extremity of the Indian peninsula at a much 
more rapid rate than we sped along the coasts of Concan, Canara 
and Malabar, which presented us with a variety of landscape views 
which I may not stop to describe. On the night of the 14th, we had 
a refreshing shower, the first since leaving Zanzibar, and about ten 
o'clock the light-house of Colombo, distant twenty miles, was de- 
scried from the fore top-sail yard, but we were not regaled by the 
spicy odors from *' India's utmost isle," which, certain travellers 
tell us, announce the vicinity of Ceylon long before it may be dis- 
cerned, even by the best telescope from the mast-head of the loftiest 
ship. 

The following morning came with clear sunshine and a gentle 
breeze. The shores of Ceylon were seen to be low, and clothed in 
verdure to the water's edge; but, a few miles back, ranges of moun- 



ADAM'S PEAK. 155 

tains rose among the clouds; and one solitary cone, towering nearly 
seven thousantl feet above the level of the sea, stood an excellent 
land mark for ships approaching the roads. It is known as Adam's 
Peak, and is sixty miles to the eastward of Colombo. Tradition has 
brought down to our times several legends in relation to this lofty 
peak, upon the top of which there is an excavation or impression in 
the rock, resembling the track of a human foot of colossal dimen- 
sions. The Boudhists say, it is the last foot-print their god left on 
the island when he stepped across the waters into the kingdom of 
Siam; hence it has become a holy place — a spot for worship and 
pilgrimage, and to which great numbers yearly resort from different 
parts of the island as well as from the |3eninsula of India. The 
difficulty of the ascent is so great, that very few Europeans, unani- 
mated as they are, by the holy fervor that swells the pilgrim's breast, 
have ever attempted it; and the priests have manifested great repug- 
nance to those few who have achieved the task, remaining on the 
summit during the night, saying such an act would bring some terri- 
ble misfortune upon Ceylon. The Mussulmans, however, insist that 
the foot-print is of our primogenitor Adam when he passed to the 
continent over the gulf of Manaar, striding from island to island of 
a group now known as Adam's bridge. According to their sacred 
writings, the paradise where Adam and Eve were created was in the 
seventh heaven; and when they forfeited, through the machinations 
of Satan, their claims to a continuance of their blissful condition, 
they were expelled from heaven by the command " Get ye down, 
the one of you an enemy to the other, and there shall be a dwelling- 
place for you on earth.'' When thus ejected from paradise, Adam fell 
upon the island of Ceylon or Serendib, and Eve near Joddah, the 
port of Mecca, on the Red Sea, and their separation lasted two hun- 
dred years. At the end of that time, the angel Gabriel conducted 
Adam, after his repentance, to a mountain near Mecca, where he found 
and knew his wife, and afterwards retired with her to Ceylon, and 
continued to propagate the species.* 

As we drew near to the spot, which the above tradition should make 
memorable, we discovered the fort and town of Colombo, almost 
hidden by groves of cocoanuts and shade trees: the most visible ob- 
jects were the light-house and flag-staff, which, being white, are in 
admirable contrast with the all -pervading green foliage. Here and 
there the corner of some white bungalow or more humble dwelling, 

* Sale's Koran. 



156 PILOT DHONIES. 

peered from beneath the trees, and the weather-worn towers of a 
mosque and a Dutch church, rose high, and stood out sharp against 
the mountain back ground j but these were scarcely perceivable, be- 
fore we reached the anchorage, which is in an open roadstead, ex- 
posed to fresh gales during the prevalence of the south-west mon- 
soon. 

A pilot boarded us about ten o'clock, and in an hour afterwards 
both vessels anchored about a mile from the shore — the first Ameri- 
can men-of-war that have entered the port — and the Peacock saluted 
the place with twenty-one guns, which were quickly responded to 
from the fort. 

When within four or five miles of the land, our attention was drawn 
to a number of canoes of a peculiar construction, which glided over 
the water at a rate far exceeding that of any vessel I had before seen. 
They are called " dhonies," and at a short distance, so trifling is their 
breadth, they might be compared, without fear of contradiction, to a 
plank set edgewise upon the water, urged forward by an oblong sail. 
The dhony used by fishermen, is from fifteen to twenty feet long, a foot 
or two wide at the bottom, but much narrower at the top. The basis of 
the vessel, is a log of light wood, hollowed out after the fashion of the 
more ordinary canoes, and, like them, sharp at both ends. Thin planks, 
a foot or eighteen inches wide, arc set edgewise upon the log, along 
the margin of its excavation and bent round, forming a sort of bul- 
wark, and very much increasing the depth of the boat| but such is 
its extreme narrowness, that the slightest preponderance of weight on 
one side or the other, would turn it over, if left without some contri- 
vance to prevent such an accident. Therefore, to make the dhony 
available for marine navigation, a solid log of the same wood, pointed 
at both ends, but of less diameter, and of little more than half the 
length of that which forms the hulk, is placed parallel to it, at about 
ten feet distant, and connected to it by arching poles, composed of 
several pieces of bamboo lashed together, and secured at right angles 
at either end of the canoe and log; thus forming an out-rigger, which 
enables the dhony to carry, in perfect safety, a spread of sail which, 
otherwise, would be out of all proportion. The sail is oblong, very 
thin, and is set from the mast by a sprit and controlled by a sheet. 
Those dhonies which approached us carried two men, one sitting in 
the bow and the other in the stern. Both were of very dark color and 
entirely naked, with the exception of a narrow riband of cotton cloth 
passed round the loins and between the legs, very much after the fa- 
shion of what surgeons call a T bandage. And instead of sitting al- 



LANDING OF COLOMBO. 157 

together in the canoe, one leg was swinging carelessly over the sidej — 
indeed, both limbs could witli difficulty be placed side by side within 
the bulwarks. In one dhony there was an additional passenger; a boy 
of about fourteen, who was squatting on the out-rigger, casting water 
upon the thin sail with half of a cocoanut shell, to increase its capacity 
for holding the wind. When struck by a squall of sufficient force to 
threaten an upset, one of the dhony-men rushes out upon the out- 
rigger, and by his weight preserves the equipoise of the vessel. 

Such is the dhony of the fishermen who seek their prey with hook 
and line, while their fleet barks are under sail; at least in this man- 
ner they catch a delicious fish sometimes styled the 'Ceylon Sal- 
mon,' from a resembhince in size and flavor to the one from which it 
gains the cognomen. But there are other vessels called dhonies of 
much larger dimensions| some of thirty or forty tons burden, con- 
structed of planks stitched together, which navigate all around the 
island, and venture to the coasts of Malabar and Coromandel. Both 
the bow and stern are sharp, and rise high out of the water, and they 
have conical or tent-formed deck, made of rattan or similar material, 
and secured to the gunwale to cover the cargo. Their out-riggers, 
however, do not preserve the same ratio of size as in the canoe. I 
have seen some of these small dhonies with three masts, bearing tri- 
angular sails of a most graceful cut, tapering aloft to thin points, 
gliding by the cocoanut groves with a lleetness, buoyancy and ease, 
befitting the chariots of sea-nymphs and peris, rather than the marine 
vehicles of the naked persons of dark-skinned Cingalese or grasping 
Moormen. 

The smoke of the salutes was still seen rolling in clouds before the 
gentle breeze when we left the ship for the town. There were two 
English vessels in the roads: the usual number at one time does not 
exceed four or five; and during the south-west monsoon the harbor 
is entirely deserted. On a small point, which forms a haven, only 
capable of sheltering vessels of not more than a hundred tons, stands 
the custom-house, a neat edifice, not very large, with a pretty corri- 
dor running round the lower story, surmounted by a sort of piazza 
and balustrade, from which there is a good view of the roads. Dou- 
bling close round this point, which is rocky and perhaps twenty feet 
high, the boat floated on a smooth surface, and we came in sight of a 
narrow wooden jetty projecting some yards from the shore for the 
convenience of landing. On the left side of this lake-like little har- 
bor was a number of the large dhonies above described, securely 



158 COSTUME OF THE CEYLONESE. 

moored by four or five wooden anchors, in shape of our metal ones, 
but owing their weight to a number of stones lashed to the shank and 
flukes — an extra one hung from the bows of each vessel, and the ca- 
bles led over the stern. On the right was a grove of trees (Hibiscus 
popylneus) of beautiful foliage, thickly sprinkled with large yellow 
flowers, which at a short distance might be mistaken for fruit. In 
front of us, amongst the Hibiscus trees were piles of timber, and we 
now and then caught the glimpse of a naked Indian, poised on the 
elevated end of a log, which he was slitting into planks. On the 
jetty was a number of Ceylonese hoisting out the lading of a boat by 
a derrick. We observed all these things en passant just before we 
stepped from the gig. 

The islanders were encostumed differently from any individuals I 
had hitherto seen in the east; some had on vests, left unbuttoned, ex- 
posing their naked bodies and arms, and all wore a cloth of inde- 
scribable pattern, in gay colors, wrapped about the waist, and hang- 
ing below the knees like a petticoat; but the most peculiar feature in 
the dress of the men was their long hair turned up in a feminine 
knot, and secured to the back of the head with a tortoise shell comb. 

At the door of the Master Attendant's ofiice, which stands on the 
left side of the way, not far from the arched entrance of the fort, we 
were met by a Ceylonese, or rather Cingalese, whose long hair was 
secured in a knot on the back of his head by a large comb. He wore 
a dark green cloth coat, armed with a profusion of large jet buttons, 
and long button-holes, which may have been cut after the Portu- 
guese fashion of three centuries ago, for it had little or no collar at 
all, and the breast had a gentle swell that ended at the knee in a 
very latitudinous tail. His white vest was secured from the throat, 
half way down his person, with jet buttons; and, to descend to farther 
minutiaa, a pair of loose pantaloons of dark color, not long enough to 
conceal his bare ankles, and a pair of sharp-toed slippers, completed 
the costume of a very polite individual, in spite of his dark skin, and, 
to us, strange habiliments. 

Captain James Steuart, the Master Attendant, who visited the ship 
at the earliest moment after our arrival, conducted us to pay our re- 
spects to Sir Rubert Wilmot Horton, the Governor and Captain- 
General of Ceylon. We walked through the arch-way and turned 
to the left, into a street, a hundred yards long, principally occupied 
by store-houses and guard-rooms of soldiers on duty. The healthful 
looks of H. B. M. troops, met at every few yards throughout the 



king's house COLOMBO LIBRARY. 159 

fort, were the very best evidence of the salubrity of Colombo, when 
it is recollected that most of them have been exposed to the influ- 
ence of its climate for seven years. 

Passing a thick wall, we came upon a green esplanade, the mar- 
gins of which, on two sides, are planted with shade trees. Near this 
parade ground stands a pile, built in the Dutch style, called the 
" King's House," which is the residence of the governor. Part of 
the edifice was being repaired. Not long since, the whole tile roof of 
the main building slid off, and exposed the palm -leaf thatching. Un- 
der a lofty portico an English sentinel was pacing back and forth, 
and within the threshold a porter, in a most theatrical garb, met us, 
and announced our names. In a few minutes His Excellency re- 
ceived us, in a most hospitably courteous manner, in a long hall that 
opened upon a fine corridor, or, as it is termed in the east, veranda, 
that looks upon a garden at the back of the house, which is almost 
hidden on all sides by trees of beautiful foliage. 

After the interview, which impressed us very favourably of the 
governor, I visited the Colombo library, which contains about ten 
thousand volumes, ranged in a long airy hall, furnished with chairs, 
sofas, and tables, upon which may be seen the best daily journals 
and the leading periodicals of England and India. It is freely open 
to strangers, and the librarian is ever ready to wait upon the vi- 
siters. 

Captain Steuart had procured for me an invitation to witness a 
battle between a mangouste and a cobra di capello, among the 
most poisonous serpents of India, at the house and under the di- 
rection of Dr. J. Kinnis, Staff* Assistant Surgeon and Superinten- 
dent of Vaccination in the Colombo district. At the appointed 
hour I was kindly welcomed by the doctor, and was introduced to 
several ladies and officers of H. B. M. Army. Dr. Kinnis is a lo- 
ver of natural history, and devotes a part of his leisure to its study; 
and to facilitate this end, keeps a number of living animals in his 
house, which, with a collection of drawings relating to the science, 
were exhibited in turn. My attention was first directed to two co- 
bras of small size, not more than a foot long, placed separately on 
plates, with glasses turned over them, and two others of the maxi- 
mum size were together in a wooden case with a glass door. These 
were destined to contribute to the sports of the day. In the back 
part of the house we saw two mangoustes, one half grown, the other 
an adult, kept in separate cages; several monkeys, of different spe- 
cies; two civet cats; several parrots, and other species of birds, and 



160 BATTLE BETWEEN MANGOUTES AND COBRAS. 

a pail* of pretty gold fishes, all alive, and apparently acquainted with 
their master. 

Every thing being ready, the young mangouste, not much larger 
than a kitten, the adult not exceeding an ordinary weazel in size, 
was brought from his cage, caressed by the doctor, who, raising one 
of the glasses, seized the snake by the back of the neck, between his 
finger and thumb, and then liberated it upon the floor. The snake 
did not appear to be quick in its movements, but stood, with ele- 
vated head and outspread hood, directing a sluggish stare, first to one 
side and then another. The little mangouste was now taken by Dr. 
Kinnis and soothed after the manner that is commonly used to en- 
courage dogs to a contest, and then placed on the floor, four or five 
feet from the serpent. The animal fixed his small eyes steadily upon 
his enemy for a moment, and cautiously approached a few steps, when 
the snake, now on the alert, quickly struck his head at him, and the 
mangouste as quickly retreated about as far as he had advanced. In 
an instant the gaze of the two combatants was fixed on each others 
and in the next, the mangouste moved forward a few steps, and then 
rushed like lightning upon the cobra, and, seizing his head in his 
mouth, shook his prey violently, with a fierce growl, as the cat does 
the unfortunate mouse that falls in her clutches, and then ran about 
the room, first to one corner and then to the other, dragging the 
snake with him, and at every pause renewing his shaking and exult- 
ing growl, much to the amusement of the gentlemen and fright of the 
ladies, who sprang upon the chairs to get out of the triumphant man- 
gouste's way. 

The second part of the entertainment promised more interest, from 
the greater size of the animals to be engaged. The large man- 
gouste was taken from his cage, but by some means escaped, and 
immediately attacking the small one, attempted to rob him of his 
prize. Dr. Kinnis seized the larger animal by the tail, and in his 
endeavour to shake loose the hold he had fastened on the other, acci- 
dently struck his head so hardly against the tile floor that he was 
stunned and for several moments appeared to be lifeless. In a short 
time, however, by dint of soothing treatment, he recovered suffi- 
ciently to eat, and to beget a hope that he had regained his spirits 
enough to fight, but in this we were disappointed, for when one of 
the large cobras was brought forth, the mangouste could not be pre- 
vailed upon to face him for an instant. 

The mangouste ( Viverra mungos, Lin.) of India is closely related 
to the mangouste of Egypt, so celebrated amongst the ancients un- 



VENOM OF I HE COBKA. 161 

der the name of Inchneumon ( Viverra Inchneiimon, Lin.) but is 
smaller; both have a pointed tail and a gray or brown fur; in the 
Viverra mungos, more of an ashy, and in the other more of a fav/n 
color.* 

The large cobra was about five feet long and not less than two 
inches in diameter. The peculiarity is the lateral spreading out of 
the neck, behind the head when excited, presenting a mark which 
has been compared to a pair of spectacles. It is extremely venom- 
ous, and, it is said, may be taught a variety of tricks; hence it is ge- 
nerally selected for exhibitions by the snake charmers of India. 
When brought out upon the floor, the animal ditl not raise its head 
nor spread its hood, until irritated: it then raised up and moved 
slowly. As the snake cannot spiing forward more than the distance 
that the head can be elevated from the ground — half the length—- 
it can be no difficult matter to get out of its way, if perceived in 
time. 

Finding the mangouste v/ould not fight, Dr. Kinnis pressed the 
serpent to the ground with a cane, and, seizing it behind the head 
between the finger and thumb, he pressed back a fold of the gum 
with a needle, and exhibited to us the fangs, which were very small 
and very sharp. The venom, which is of a dark greenish color, is 
secreted by a gland under the eye, and is poured through a minute 
canal in the tooth into any wound it may make. It appears that the 
secretion of the poison only goes forward when the animal is in a 
state of irritation, and then the gland is very active and the quantity 
poured forth is considerable; but the secretive power is limited to 
time, for at the end of a few minutes the fluid, at first so deadly, be- 
comes comparatively harmless. To hold the animal requires con- 
siderable force, and a friend seized the body of the snake with both 
hands to prevent his forcing himself out of the grasp of the doctor, 
who by some such accident was bitten, a few days before by the same 
cobra, in the fleshy part of the hand; but the wound was imme- 
diately excised, and healed without any bad consequences. 

The cobra was restored to the companionship of its fellow, which 
he had bitten a day or two before, when both were angry; the 
wounded animal was languid and listless, probably from the effects 
of the poison. A half grown chicken was put in with them. It 
stood upon the folds of the sick cobra while the other struck it two 
or three blows, and then sunk down, taking no farther notice of the 

* Cuvier's Animal Kingdom. 
21 



i6£ COLUBER MUSEUM RAMPARTS. 

bird, which gazed in silent consternation at its assailant. At the end 
of five minutes it was liberated, and seemed to be perfectly well. 

The party now adjourned to the museum, which has been recently 
established under the direction of Dr. Kinnis, where we had a far- 
ther evidence of his predilection for snakes, in a very large coluber, 
kept in a wooden box without any fastening whatever; but the Doc- 
tor assured us it was perfectly harmless, and roused it with a stick. 
Represented it a half grown fowl, which the reptile surrounded with 
its folds, gradually drawing them tight, until the bird gave cries of 
distress. As some time would elapse before the coluber would 
begin to swallow it, we were shown two chitahs or hunting tigers of 
India — two beautiful animals — and a cassowary from New South 
Wales, which one of the chitahs had killed that morning. We then 
walked through the museum, which contains small collections of 
mammalia, birds, minerals, shells, &c., and a number of anatomical 
preparations of different kinds. The examination occupied proba- 
bly a half hour, and, on our return, we found the coluber just begin- 
ning to swallow the chicken entire and head -foremost, slowly forcing 
it down his throat by pressing the body into his mouth by his own 
folds, and ten minutes elapsed before it entirely disappeared; a meal 
of this kind, given once a month, is ample for sustaining the reptile's 
life. 

It was late in the afternoon when we took leave of the party, and 
directed our walk to the ramparts of the fort, which was built by the 
Dutch, and according to Cordiner, is a mile and a quarter in circum- 
ference, has seven bastions, connected by curtains and is defended 
by three hundred pieces of cannon.* Two-thirds of it are encom- 
passed by the sea and the remaining third by a lake of fresh water. 
Narrow necks of land or causeways connect it with the main on 
either hand. It has six gates, and was taken from the Dutch on the 
15th of February, 1796. 

The ramparts are covered with a beautiful green sward, and the 
side towards the road, leading to Point de Galle, presents several 
very picturesque views of the lake, and of slave island in its centre, so 
called from having been the abode of slaves under the Dutch dynasty. 
An hour before sunset the whole world of Colo.nbo is in parade; the 
esplanade is covered with manoeuvring troops, and the Galle road 
is crowded with carriages and equipages of various descriptions, and 

• A description of Ceylon by the Rev. James Cordiner, A. M,, Late Chaplain 
to the Garrison at Colombo. 2 vols, quarto. London, 1807. 



ISLAND OF CEYLON. 16S 

ladies and gentlemen on horseback, with a pretty sprinkling of pedes- 
trians. The cocoanut forests or groves beyond the esplanade, gently 
moved by the dying sea-breeze, the rich green of a tropical vegetation, 
snug retreats beneath the shade, lighted by the last rays of the sun, 
fast sinking upon the expanded ocean, presented a scene as enchant- 
ing to my senses as any of the kind I have hitherto witnessed. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



SKETCHES IN CEYLON. 



December f 1835. 

The island of Ceylon — the Taprobane of the Greeks and Romans, 
and by some old writers mentioned under the name of Selan, Sing- 
hala, Serendiband Lanka — lies between the parallels of five degrees 
and fifty-six minutes, and nine degrees fifty minutes north latitude; 
and between the meridians of eighty and eighty-two degrees of longi- 
tude east from Greenwich. Its extreme length is two hundred and 
seventy, and its extreme breadth one hundred and forty-five miles. 
Its configuration has been compared to that of a pear, and its aver- 
age breadth is about one hundred miles, with a superficies measuring 
24,448, square miles. It is mentioned in the writings of Pliny, Di- 
onysius and Ovid. On the south and east, its shores are washed by 
the great Indian ocean, and on the west, it is separated from the coast 
of Coromandel by the gulf of Manaar; the northern point stretches 
into the bay of Bengal and the southern extremity extends nearly 
two degrees south of cape Comorin. The nearest passage to the 
Indian peninsula, is by the small islands of Manaar and Ramisseram; 
commonly called Rama's or Adam's bridge, before alluded to, and 
measures thirty miles. On Ramisseram there are still several Boud- 
hist temples of great antiquity. 

The surface of Ceylon is mountainous in the centre, broken into 
valleys and plains, while the margin is low, and in some places marshy. 



164 POPULATION OF CEYLOX. 

It is naturally well watered bj fine rivers and mountain streams, and, 
in the palmy days of the once splendid capital of Anooraadlmpoora, 
possessed anilicial tanks and canals, made by the ancient monarchs 
of Kancly. The soil is clothed in a luxuriant growth of an extensive 
variety of tropical plants, often woven together in impenetrable jungles, 
the secure retreat of wild beasts and serpents, and its mountains 
present us with a variety of gems and minerals^ but hitherto, and 
even at present, the want of practicable roads, deprives the inhabi- 
tants of a great part of their natural wealth. This evil must soon 
disappear before the spirit which is abroad for internal improvement, 
and for ameliorating ihe condition of the population. Though in- 
ternal communication be diflirult, the island has ports through vvliich 
intercourse may be held with the whole world j indeed, before its 
discovery by the Portuguese, Ceylon was the commercial entrepot, 
in the trade carried on between the countries of the far east and 
those upon the Persian gulf and Red Sea. On the north-eastern coast 
is Trincomalee, on the southern. Point de Galle, both fine havens, 
and on the western, Colombo, which is but a roadstead j the two 
latter are of the most commercial importance, while the former affords 
a place of rendezvous or head quarters for the vessels of the British 
squadrons serving in India. 

When the Portuguese first visited Ceylon, they found it inhabited 
by two tribes or nations differing widely from each other. Those 
living on the north part of the island were called Bedas, and, like 
the Scotch Highlanders, were associated in warlike tribes under a 
patriarchal government. The Singhalese who resided on the southern 
extremity of the island, compared with the Bedas, were civilized, 
wearing clothes and being divided into castes as in India. They 
were Boudhists, but the Bedas had no religion. They were also 
warlike, and often prevailed over Europeans in consequence of their 
superior knowledge of the mountainous country.* 

The population of the island consists of Singhalese, Moors, Malays, 
Portuguese, Dutch, English and a few American missionaries esta- 
blished at Jaftna. Tiic following table, published in the *' Ceylon 
Almanac," for 1835, is a census taken in 1833, derived from the re- 
ports of the government agents. 

* Establecimientos Ultramarines. 



•< H 



O" CD 






5 



w 

o 

3 
a> 

o 



o 

13 



O 



rf 


o 


p 


3 










>-t 




P-. 


h-* 




to 




o^ 


-s 


00 


O 


o 

CO 


tr 




p 




<; 




o 




3 




o 




rt- 




cr 




m 




n» 




S 





&. 





O 2; WCfi^ 




■* 


H 


" o t> 2 ^ 

!i5 -3 t/5 q K 


« o 






^1 " 5H 

p 5 ?3 M 2 


OCNTY, 

or 

STRICT. 






^ h '-^ ^ ^ 




to 1 








4^ 


OO oi^ cn h^ 


Area in Square | 


*^ 


"o o 00 p "ttx 


Miles. 




^ 


>-• Oil <0 Oo (Lrr 






00 


cr> o:^ o. to to 






Oj 


I—' 














OD 


>|5^ CTl k^ ~^ 


Males. 


<- 


-<l 


C> (O ^O O^ 00 




< 


00 


O, Oo ^ to (J^ 




H 




o 


►f>. to Or,'^ 


Females. 


r. 


fO 


ot tf^ o I-' o 






<y> 


On to o^ ^O hf^ 






o> • 


t— »-* to 




_ 


o^ 


C> O to oo OJ 






y< 


if^<p°iJ'i^ *^ 


Males. 


^ 
» 


to 


"oi oo to 'cTi "tfx 




w 


o 


^ H- oo 00 o 




p: 


Ol 


-^ to Ofi o CO 




W 


<-n 


i-i (-i to 




h-' 


On O to to I-' 




o 


O 

%* 


^ jXi^tO 1-'^ 


Females. 


00 


O0~t0 On 4^'J-' 




• 


DO 


On ^ ~<f 00 ^ 




* 


*- 


to to ^ --1 CTi 






M- 


t->- 






03 


ND 






00 


►j^^'h-i OO CO 


Males. 


cc 


Ol 


►ti. cTi CTi 'j:^ 




Ol 


o o^ o <o »-' 




> 
P3 


1—^ 


I— 1 




jO 


t— I 




a! 


"Oi 


On "Ib^ 03 00 


Females. 




OJ 


►— fP^ oo 01 






00 


I-* VO O On CO 






trt 


t-i ^ to 






00 


Oi to to oo 00 






K> 


yt OJ7>_oo_cr> 


Males. 




Oi 


"o to Oi "on "on 




hJ 


Ut 


CO o to t-i to 




o 


to t-i «0 )-' -^ 




cT 


Ot 


1-* 1— to 




00 


On to to to i-i 




c 


Oi 


o^ o^ to^^ 


Females. 




1i^ 


"to "^ "^ "oo "to 






4^ 


^- o^ 00 tii' oo 






oo 


00 00 oo >-• 00 






0° 


^ jO 






^ 


"i^ cr> oi oo'oft 


Aliens and Re 


si- 


1—' 


00 0> Oi <o i-i 


dent Stranger 


s. 


a» 


00 -vf o rf^ cr^ 






1 >;-. ^ i-i >fi. o 
to o o to >-' 


Population to l 
Square 3Iile 


he 


00 


»— k 






Or, 


^ On -^ CT> 






*^ 


j-^^O 00 ut 




13 






Agriculture. 


K 


"i^ 


c^ to ~-t tf^ 4^ 


?3 


On 


o o oo 1— 1 ^O 




tn 


VD 


CO GO oo (O CO 




C 

Ui 


fO 


1 




Or, 
O 


^ JJt 1— 1 CO ~<( 
o to "to "rf^ "^ 


Manufacture. 


B 
2 


1— ' 


CO 00 On o 00 




"r 


M 


~^ ^ C7^ O^ O 




< 


►f^ 


to (— ' >-i 




J<( 


^3 O jO O JO 




a 


"h-i 


oo "oo "c^ "^ "on 


Commerce. 


O 


(O to I— 4^ 00 




z 


(S3 


1 O O O 4^ 00 


1 




to 


)_< 




— 


1— ' 


^ K5_;-?p 






Oi 


^ oo "cc "^-' "io 


Births. 




Ox 


o to 00 ^ ^t 






4^ 


• ►^ to fP^ o 00 






00 


S- ^3 K* 00 


1 




\» 








00 

<o 


^ "oo On "o "on 
3 >-' O -^ 1— 
_ O 1-^ CJ^ to 


Marriages. 




^o 






to 








^to 


►go On ^O 
r" to <o o »-* 






CO 


Deaths. 




00 


^o (fi. -^ On 






I o 


00 GO CO Oi 




,^ 






& 












m 






iBssn 
ft 



166 MORTALITY IN CEYLON. 

The above table exhibits a very decided preponderance in the 
number of male over the female population, amounting to 194,423, 
attributable to the practice of female infanticide, which has been 
abandoned only within a short time. The average number of inha- 
bitants to the square mile is forty-six, and the average mortality to 
the whole population appears to be less than two per cent., from 
which fact an estimate of the salubrity of the climate may be formed. 
The accidental deaths appear to be large, if we may judge from the 
following statement, found in the "Ceylon Almanac" for 1835. 
" From the reports sent into the Colonial Secretary from the several 
magistrates, it appears that there have been two hundred and twenty- 
two inquests (Coroner's) held during the last year, (1834,) and the 
following verdicts have been returned: — 

By falls from trees, - .... 49 

Falling into wells, - - - - - 25 

Accidentally drowned, ----- 41 

Fall of houses, - - - - - - 2 

By a gun bursting, - - - - - 1 

Accidentally shot, ... - - 3 

By other casualties, ----- 5 

From bites of serpents, ----- 20 

Killed by elephants, ----- 13 

" by wild hogs, ----- 4 

Suicide by hanging, (English?) - - - - 18 

" by drowning, ----- 6 

From the violence of others, - - - - 13 

Drunkenness, - - - - - - 8 

Natural sickness, - - - - - 14 



Total, - - - - 222 



Of the population, a very small proportion is christianized, the 
majority being Boudhists, Hindoos, and Mohammedans; yet there 
can be no doubt that the efforts of the several religious missions in 
Ceylon have n)ct witli more success than in any other part of India; 
and what may be flattering to our national pride at least, though they 
have been passed over in silence by the compilers of tlie *' Historical 
and Descriptive account of British India," published in the "Family 
Library," the American missionaries are acknowledged on all hands 
to be more exemplary and more useful, and more eminently success- 
ful than any other religious people in India. The omission referred 



MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENTS. 167 

to in the above work has been corrected in a note by the editor of the 
American edition. Nor is any mention whatever made of the Wes- 
leyan Mission, in a work pretending to give an account of the pre- 
sent condition of India; perhaps the compilers, (all distinguished 
men,) like the English residents there, do not consider Ceylon to be 
apart of India, notwithstanding that Bishop Heber visited it, in 1825, 
as a part of his diocess. But let us not complain of the compilers' 
want of care in this point, for it is in perfect keeping with the inde- 
finite and obscure manner in which they have handled every subject 
they pretend to treat. 

The American mission establishments at Jaffna, (Ceylon) com- 
menced in 1816, and the mission occupies seven stations in the dis- 
trict, viz: Tillipally, Batticotta, Oodooville, Ponditeripo, Manepy, 
Chavagacherry and Varany. The missionary Seminary or High School 
at Batticotta, contains seven native teachers, ten students in christian 
theology, eighty-four students in English and the elements of science, 
twenty students pursuing the same branches in Tamul only, besides 
eight day scholars, making a total of one hundred and twenty-nine. 

In the female central school at Oodooville, under the superinten- 
dence of Mrs. Spaulding, there are fifty-one girls, who are fed, clothed 
and instructed at the expense of the mission. 

In connexion with the mission, there are one hundred and twenty- 
three native free schools, distributed in eighteen parishes, instructing 
4,241 boys and 821 girls, making together, 5,062. The printing esta- 
blishment of the mission, at Manepy, has two presses employed. 

The Wesleyan mission was established in 1814, and has at present 
the following schools at its different stations, viz: 



Stations. 


Schools. 


Boys. 


Girls 


Colombo and Negombo 
Kiirnegalle 


8 
16 


505 
540 


47 
116 


Caltura 


17 


834 


69 


Galle 


11 


580 


63 


Matura 


12 


501 


144 


Moruwa Korle 


3 


80 


12 



Totals 67 3040 451 

Thetotalnumberof teachers, male and female, is 95; besides which, 
the district employs 14 or 15 salaried catechists, who assist in the su- 
perintendence of the schools, ^nd conduct public worship on sabbath 
days. 



168 MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENTS. 

The mission has had a printing establishment in Colombo since its 
commencement, which at present employs one press, chiefly printing 
for the Colombo Auxiliary Bible Society, and the Colombo Auxiliary 
Religious Tract Society. 

The Roman Catholic mission in Ceylon, was established by the ve- 
nerable Father, Jose Vas, of the congregation of the oratory of St. 
Philip Neri, in 1687, and in 1833, had sixty-three private schools, 
distributed in the different provinces under its direction. 

Such is the statistical condition of three missions, unnoticed by the 
learned compilers above referred to, and now let us see how the Eng- 
lish mission will compare with them: then the reader may decide whe- 
ther the American mission is unworthy of notice, particularly when it 
is remembered that the result of its labors, is to be of no little poli- 
tical advantage to the British interests in the East. 

The Ceylon mission of the Church Missionary Society was esta- 
blished in 1818. It occupies four stations, viz.j Cotta, Kandy, Nel- 
lore and Baddagamma. 

At Nellore and at Baddagamma, there are seminaries in which boys 
are boarded and educated gratuitously; and at Cotta there is a Chris- 
tian institution where a select number of promising youths are clothed 
and boarded, and receive a superior education, sufficient to qualify 
them for assistant missionaries, or as may be considered otherwise 
eligible. 

Its schools are 52, containing 1325 boys, 229 girls, 65 youths and 
adults — total 1619. There are 83 native teachers and assistants. 

At Cotta there are printing and book-binding establishments. 

The Baptist mission was instituted in the year 1812, by the Rev. 
J. Chater. It has three chapels in Colombo, situated in the fort, the 
Pettah and the Grand Pass, where the gospel is preached in the Eng- 
lish, Portuguese, and Singhalese languages. Besides these places 
erected for religious worship, service is performed in several of the 
school rooms in Colombo, and in many around Colombo and Hang- 
welle. 

In and around Colombo there are 14 day-schools, containing 500 
children — of whom nearly a third part is females. These children 
are instructed in the fundamental principles of Christianity, as the 
great object kept in view is their spiritual benefit. Two Sunday 
schools are attached to the mission — in the Chapel, in the Pettah and 
at the Grand Pass.* 

* Ceylon Almanac. 



CLIMATE— DISEASES VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. l69 

Besides the above means of education, there were, in 1833, 703 
private, 17 government, and 5 regimental schools, which, since that 
time, have been probably increased in number. The whole number 
of schools were then as follows: 

Private, ... - 703 

American mission, - - 125 

Wesleyan mission, - - ^7 

Church mission, - - - 52 [> Protestant, 983 

Baptist mission, _ - - 14 

Government, - - - 17 | 

Regimental,* - - - 5 1 

CathoHc (private,) - - 63 63 

Total, 1046 

All these institutions must exercise a powerful eiFect upon the 
prosperity of Ceylon, by diffusing general and christian knowledge, 
and thus ameliorating the condition of the people^ and throwing aside 
all philanthropic considerations, (which are considered Utopian by|a 
number of people,) must advantageously influence the political ad- 
vancement of the island and improve its state of society. 

The climate of Ceylon differs from most others in this region, in 
possessing, though so near the equator, an equable temperature, a re- 
gular succession of land and sea breezes, and frequent rains at irre- 
gular intervals. While the belt of coast, about sixty miles broad, 
enjoys all the characteristics of a tropical climate, the usual daily va- 
riation of temperature being from 76° to 86° F., the interior affords 
cooler regions, to which the invalid may retire to recruit his health, 
where he may find frosty mornings, and even ice, to invigorate the 
system, so liable to become relaxed after any considerable residence 
in the equatorial regions. 

The most common diseases are dysentery, diarrhoea, consumption, 
elephantiasis, intermittent and miasmatic fevers^ small pox is not 
an infrequent disease, notwithstanding the extensive vaccine es- 
tablishment. 

The products of vegetation in Ceylon are numerous and valuable. 
The fruits are the mango, the pumplemose, pummalo, or shaddock, 
the orange, the pine-apple (a wild species said to be poisonous) ba- 
nanas, &C.5 but neither European fruits nor vegetables flourish on the 

* The regimental schools are exclusively, I believe, for the instruction of sol» 
diers' children. 



170 



RICE COFFEE PEPPER CINNAMON. 



coast. At a new settlement called Newura Eliia and at Kandy, po- 
tatoes of very good quality have been produced for several years. 
Rice, the chief article of native diet, is grown, but not in sufficient 
quantity for the consumption of the island^ the average annual im- 
portation, from 1819 to 1828, inclusive, was 1,251,680 parrahs (the 
parrah of rice being from 42 to 46 lbs.,) equal to 870,784 bushels; 
one-third more than the annual importation under the Dutch admin- 
istration.* Yet, that the island can be made capable of producing 
sufficient grain for the consumption of its inhabitants, is an opinion 
I have seen advanced in several communications made to the " Co- 
lombo Journal " and *' Ceylon Gazette. " Strange to say, rice pays an 
import duty of two pence per parrah, and all other grain five pence. 
Coffee is grown, and has been lately exported in considerable 
quantities. To encourage the cultivation of pepper, the government 
advertised, on the 17th November, 1827, that the export and import 
ware-house keeper at Colombo, and the collector of Galle, would 
receive any pepper of Ceylon growth that might be offered at nine 
shillings the parrah, which produced the following result. 



PURCHASE OF PEPPER BY THE GOVERNMENT. 



Year. 


Pariahs. 


Vai 


ue. 


£ 


s. 


1827 
1828 
1829 
1830 
1831 


46 
185 


20 
82 


14 
17 

15 
15 


5495 
6955 


2472 
3029 


12,681 


5606 


1 



Cinnamon is the most profitable of the vegetable productions of 
Ceylon, and yields a considerable revenue to the government, being 
for 1831, not less than 106,434, pounds sterling. Since 1832, how- 
ever, several very important changes in the law relating to it have 
been made. Previous to that period, it was a monopoly in the hands 
of the East India Company, and its cultivation was saddled with 
many onerous restrictions. At present it is freely cultivated, and 
may be exported to any port in the world, on paying a duty of three 
shillings the pound. The value of the cinnamon exported in 1834 was 
^632,741 -|i, an amount very much less than for several previous years. 



* A brief Appeal to the Government of Great Britain in behalf of the Inhabitants 
of Ceylon. 12mo. p. 25. Colombo, 1835. 



PRODUCTIONS MINERALS ANIMALS. 171 

Cotton, sugar, tobacco, opium, indigo and silk are also produced 
in small quantities, and encouragement is only wanting to extend 
their -cultivation. Besides these, there is the cocoanut tree, produ 
cing a plentiful supply of oil, and the material for coir ropej the ebony, 
the calamander, the satin wood, all used in the manufacture of the 
finest kinds of household furniture^ the Sappan tree, affording a rich 
dye^ the areca nut and cajoo trees| the bread fruit and jack trees, 
and many others that I may not mention. 

The most profitable mineral production is plumbago, which is ex- 
ported in considerable quantities. There is iron ore in plenty, some 
quicksilver, sulphur, and a great variety of precious stones, among 
which maybe enumerated, red, green, blue, white and iioney tour- 
malins^ yellowish and greenish topaz^ rubies of every shade; gar- 
nets, cinnamon stones, robals and hyacinths, the tv/o last some- 
times passed for rubies; blue, green, and white or water and star 
sapphire; cat's eye, agate, jaspar, sardonyx; white, yellow, brown 
and black crystal, and that beautiful variety of feldspar called moon- 
stone. 

Among the animals elephants stand first. They are very nume- 
rous, and have become so destructive to the rice plantations, that a 
reward of three shillings is paid by the government for every tail— the 
head being too large for a trophy— that is brought. One of the 
chief sports in the island is elephant shooting, which is not without 
danger, and one gentleman was mentioned to us who has killed more 
than four hundred; but the hunts, as described by Cordiner, have been 
for many years abandoned. The tusks are sold for ivory, and their 
huge grinders are manufactured into knife-handles, snuff-boxes, &c. 
Tame elephants are employed for various purposes, for draught in 
carts, for ploughing and for piling timber. 

The water buffalo, similar to that seen at Bombay, and on the 
island of Sumatra; several varieties of deer, among which are the 
spotted deer, the elk and a species not larger than a rabbit, called 
the moose-deer: chitahs or hunting tigers, wild cats, jackals, vt'hite- 
faced bears, monkeys of various species; the mangouste, a natural 
enemy of serpents, and which is said to protect itself by eating of the 
orphiorhiza mungos, of the Stryclmos colubrina, and of the o/>/«*o- 
xylon serpeniinum, plants which have the reputation of being anti- 
dotes to the poison of venomous snakes; a musk-rat, or perfuming 
shrew, not much larger than the domestic mouse, and hogs, are all 
natives of the island. Horses, sheep and goats are imported, as well 
as turkeys, geese and fowls. 



172 SALT TAX. 

Among the birds, may be mentioned the jungle fowl, (said to pos- 
sess the flavor of the pheasant,) snipe, green pigeons, fly-catchers, 
sea-larks, wood -peckers, swallows, sparrows, tailor, honey and paddy 
birds. 

Of the lizard tribe, there is almost every variety. The number of 
deaths from the bite of reptiles, as reported, shows that they are nu- 
merous: at their head stands the cobra di capello, and next, perhaps, 
the coluber, or, as travellers call it, boa. 

The insects are numerous, and some of them are very beautiful. 
The most remarkable is the leaf- fly, which assumes the color of the 
leaf upon which it rests; and in a prepared state may be imposed 
upon one as a dry leaf. There is an extensive variety of beautiful 
beetles, and a host of white, red and black ants, which are most an- 
noying and destructive.* 

Besides all these riches, the waters abound in excellent fish, among 
which the Scir fish, or Ceylon salmon, stands pre-eminent. But fishing 
is oppressed by a tithe tax, which is farmed out to speculators and by 
them collected in kind. The revenue from this source in 1833, 
amounted to ^6,479 14s. 7|fZ. Still there is another clog upon the 
labor of the fisherman, in the enormous tax of from eight hundred to 
one thousand per cent, on salt, of which large quantities are made 
on the island. In 1833 this tax yielded no less, than £29,044 12s. 5id. 
It is farmed in the same way as that on fish; and a writer attempts to 
justify it on the principle, that salt being an article of universal 
consumption, the tax falls equally on all classes of inhabitants; 
which would be a true deduction, perhaps, if the premises were cor- 
rect; for, though salt be an article of universal consumption, and all 
consume an equal quantity, the tax falls heaviest upon the poor for 
this very reason. If the rich man consumed salt in a quantity pro- 
portionate to his means, the tax then might be said to bear equally 
on all; but this equality appears to be like that in a capitation tax, 
where the amount is not so much objected to, were it not for the 
difficulty some of the poor find, of obtaining the means to pay it. 
Perhaps the best argument in favor of the salt tax, is, that the people 
have always been accustomed to it, and therefore do not feel the 
burden. It seems to operate as a complete bar to trading in salted 
fish for the interior, which, were salt at eight hundred or a thousand 
per cent, cheaper, would become of importance, at least to one of the 
classes of industrious poor. Salt is worth about a cent a pound, and 
the wages of a laborer are twelve and a half cents a day. 

* Cordiner's Description. 



COMMERCE GOVERNMENT. 173 

The commerce of Ceylon is not very extensive, having to contend 
with the common difficulties of colonies, as well as those peculiar to 
itself^ — want of roads in particular. The exports to Europe consist 
chiefly of cinnamon, pepper, coffee, cocoanut-oil, plumbago, cordage, 
arrack, cardammums, elephant-tusks, deer-horns, tortoise-shell, 
(chiefly from the Maldive islands) ebony, satin-wood, &c., and the 
returns are all kinds of European manufactures. To the British co- 
lonies are exported arrack, coffee, areca-nuts, copperahs, cocoanuts, 
hookah-shells, coir, nipera lath, bichos do mar, shark-fins, fish-oil, &c.; 
and, in return, rice, paddy, wheat, cloth, silk, sugar, spices, drugs, &c., 
are imported. There is also an internal trade carried on between 
the several districts or provinces, both by land and water.* 

The following table shovv^s the number of merchant vessels which 
anchored in the several ports of Ceylon in the year 1834. The 
greater part of those that arrived at Colombo were from the west- 
ward of the cape of Good Hopej all those at the other ports arrived 
from places lying east of it. 

Ports. 
Colombo. 



Galle. 

Trincomalee. 
Point Pedro.f 
Tondemar.i: 
Hambantott. 



Nation. 


Ships. 


English, 
French, 


34 
4 


American, 


1 


English, 
Portuguese, 
English, 
Id, 


11 

2 
8 


Id. 


5 


Id. 


5 



Total, 70 16 

The government of Ceylon is managed, under a colonial charter 
from the British crown, by a governor, who is also commander-in- 
chief and vice admiral, aided by executive and legislative councils, 
the latter being constituted of Englishmen and natives. The judi- 
ciary consists of a supreme and inferior courts; vice admiralty and 
district courts, &c. The government is sustained, in a measure, by 

* Ceylon Gazetteer, by Simon Casie Chitty, Modliar. Ceylon. Cotta Church 
Mission Press, 1835. 

f From this port, during the same year, there was exported to Mauritius and to 
India 115,689 parrahs of salt. 

\ In 1834 the export of salt from this port was 258,015 parrahs. 



174 



STATEMENT OF THE 



the presence of 11. B. M. 58th, 61st, 78th and 97th regiments of 
foot, and H. B. M. Cejlon Rifle regiment. At present, however, 
there is very little to be apprehended, the affairs of the island being 
in a tranquil and prosperous state. 

The revenue of the colony is in a more flourishing condition than 
that of any other of His Majesty's colonies: the sources whence it is 
derived will be seen by reference to the following table; and one 
cannot help congratulating himself, as an American, that the people of 
the United States are free from many of the onerous exactions on 
labor which we there see set forth. Indeed, it may be asserted, 
without fear of contradiction, that we are as free, as happy, as pros- 
perous, if not very much more so, than any people on the face of the 
globe. 

AN EXACT STATEMENT OF THE REVENUE OF 



s. d. 



Cinnamon, cinnamon and clove oils — sale of in England 

and Ceylon,* 

Sea customs — duty on exports and imports, port clear- 
ances, &c. --------- 

Pearl fishery (at Condatchy,) (mowojoo/y,) - - - 
f^Paddy farms, ----... 

'^ -S J Fine grain farms, 

KJ (M I ^^^'^^^'"^ farms, - 

l^Duty on timber, f 

(^Ferry tolls, ----... 
^ { Bridge tolls, - . . _ . - 

1 I J Canal tolls, 

^ 1 ^ Cart tolls, 

O I Lock tolls, --.-..- 

V_Honorary tax,f - 

g f Arrack and toddy:}: farms, . . . - 

s J Duty on arrack stills, 

.« j Gaming and cock-fighting farms, - - - 
•^ l^ Weights and measures — stamping and sale of, - 

Auction duty, 

Salt farms, (a tithe,) .-._-.. 
Fish farms, Ditto, -------- 

Tobacco tithes, Ditto, ------- 

Commutation tax,-|- ------- 

Blank stamps — sale of, 

Judicial stamps — sale of, and fees on Judicial process of 
Supreme Court, 

Carried forward, - - . . 



165,270 


. 


64,419 


12 


25,043 


10 


32,396 


18 


2,993 


16 


1,103 


10 


129 


15 


2,249 


7 


2,684 


8 


79 


6 


68 


1 


7 


10 


133 


8 


31,268 


4 


1,644 


7 


344 


10 


65 


2 


182 


4 


29,044 


12 


6,479 


14 


174 


12 


1,799 


17 


3,121 





10,17'2 


5 
16 


380,876 



7 
6| 
11 

H 
5A 

n 



2 
Of 

6 



3$ 

n 

9i 



0^ 



6# 



n 



* These articles are received by the government at fixed rates in payment of 
taxes. 

f Since abolished. 

t Liquors obtained from the cocoanut tree. 



REVENUE OF CEYLON. 



175 



£. 



Broug-bt forward, . - . - 
Post office, 

Cliank fishery,* {amonopoly^) _ . . - - 
Pearl oysters — sale of at Trincomalee, - - - - 

Total fixed revenue, - - - - 

Premium en sale of bills, &c. 

Interest on arrears of rents, &c. 

Portion of interest paid to government by the Loan Board, 
Black pepper — sale of in England and Ceylon, 



Cocoanut oil. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


Peradenia coffee. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


Kekuna oil. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


Colombo Journal, 


do. 


do. 


do. 



Lands and houses — rents and sale of, - - - - 
Tithes redeemed, -------- 

Pearl-sand sifting-— rent of, - 

Arrack, g-ardening-, and bazaar farms, rented at the pearl 

fishery at Candatchy, 

Vedderatte tribute — sale of, {since abolished,) 
Masters attendant — hire of boats, &c. . - - - 
Commissariat and colonial stores, provisions, &c. — sale of, 
and stoppag-es for issues to troops, - - - - 

Government cattle — sale of, 

Gunpowder — sale of, 

Eice and paddy — sale of, and loans recovered by collect- 
ors, 

Hospital surplus, -------- 

Effects of the deceased men of the pioneer — elephant and 

bullock establishments — pay of deserted men, &c. 
Difference of pay of the late superintendent of the cinna- 
mon department refunded, 

Sorting" and embalming* cinnamon — receipts for. 

Sundry incidental receipts of the treasury, - - . 

Fines and forfeitures, 

Total incidental receipts, - 

Receipts in aid of revenue, 

Summary. 
Arrears of revenue of former years, - - . - 

Fixed, ----- 

Incidental, - - - - -- 

Receipts in aid of revenue, 



380,876 


16 


2i 


1,823 


8 


10* 


13 


10 





2 


5 





382,716 





o 


4,144 


9 


r* 


757 


14 


9 


474 


4 


7i 


7,130 


17 





7,893 


13 


4 


67 


7 


9| 


20 


9 





683 


2 


64 


817 


7 


H 


52 


9 


Oi 


16 


19 





35 


5 





67 


7 


8* 


6 


17 





23,107 


7 


10^ 


44 


9 


H 


155 




H 


487 


12 


5i 


100 


2 


6i 


24 


9 


3i 


26 


13 


4 


74 


8 





137 


17 


lU 


991 


17 
5 


10| 


47,318 


n 


2,258 


16 


6| 


5,263 


4 


Oi 


382,716 





3 


47,318 


5 


n 


2,258 


16 
6 


6| 


437,556 


Of 



The total expenditure for the same period was £331,764, leaving- a surplus 
revenue of £105,791. 

* Chank shells are made into bracelets and bangles, which are worn by fe- 
males in almost all parts of India. 



176 SINGHALESE HISTORY. 

Of the history of Ceylon previous to the discovery by the Portu- 
guese in 1505, very little was known, until G. Turnour, Esq. of the 
Ceylon civil service, obtained a knowledge of the Pali language and 
translated a manuscript, written on the leaves of the talipot tree, 
entitled Maha Wanse. Mr. Turnour* obtained a transcript of the 
work in 1827, and communicated to the editor of the Ceylon Alma- 
nac, an " Epitome of the History of Ceylon," containing a brief no- 
tice of one hundred and sixty-five Singhalese sovereigns, beginning 
with Wejaya, who ascended the throne B. C. 543, and ending with 
Sree Wickrema Raajasingha, who succeeded to the sovereignty in 
1798. He was the last king of Kandy. In 1815, the seventeenth 
year of his reign, he was deposed by the Englisn and imprisoned at 
Vellore, (Madras country) where he died in 1832, leaving a son born 
during his captivity. Since 1815, the whole island has been under 
the dominion of the British government. 

The Rev. D. Poor, American missionary at Jaffna, has also com- 
municated to the Ceylon Almanac, a translation of an extract from 
the Ramayanam, accounting for the origin of the island of Ceylon. 
It is short and not uninteresting, and is therefore transcribed for the 
benefit of the reader. 

"^Listen, O ye mighty ones!' said the divine architect to the 
three giants who consulted him as to the most suitable place for 
building a royal city — ' Listen. In former times the thousand-headed 
hydra, and the gods of winds had a fierce contention between them- 
selves, as to which of them was the greater. Each of them obstinately 
insisted that he himself was superior to the other, in strength and 
greatness, in honor and glory. At lerigth they resolved to settle the 
controversy by putting their pretentions to the test, in presence of 
all the gods. 

" At the time appointed for the contest, the thousand-headed hydra 
ascended the golden mountain Marw, which has one thousand and 
eight lofty summits, and is nearly one and a half million of miles in 
height; he spread out his thousand heads, firmly clasping the nume- 
rous summits of the mountain so that no part of it was at that time 
visible. 

" Having thus taken his position, he defied his antagonist to dis- 
lodge him. The god of winds, being wrought to the highest fury, 

* This gentleman Is about publishuig the result of his labors and indigations 
in the Pali and Singhalese languages. 



SINGHALESE HISTORY. 177 

instantly rushed forth, and with a concentration of those mighty en- 
ergies by which he is wont, at the time of a universal deluge, to dis- 
solvej'ocksinto their five elements, and to scatter them to the winds, 
he raged and roared furiously, beat his foe| but the hydra remained 
unmoved. The god of winds perceiving that he was defeated and 
being unable to endure the disgrace that must ensue, became con- 
tracted in his form and sneaked away, and concealed himself, to- 
gether with his wonted energies, in a cavity of a mountain. In con- 
sequence of this concealment, the inhabitants of the upper and lower 
regions, both gods and men, being deprived of wind, panted, fainted 
and swooned; they were parched, melted and burned, like waxen 
dolls before a furnace. At this time of general consternation and 
distress, the gods, demigods and sages, in one vast procession, pro- 
ceeded to the foot of the mountain, prostrated themselves before the 
thousand-headed hydra, and thus addressed him: * Art thou not in- 
deed the protector of the universe? Is there any one to be compared 
with thee in wisdom, in power and glory? Have compassion on all 
beings, and save them from their present agony.' 

*' The hydra being thus honored and thereby rendered propitious, 
raised one of his heads a little, that he might leisurely survey the 
prostrate multitude before him. At that time, the god of winds, 
who, burning with revenge, lay watching his opportunity, said within 
himself — * Now, is my chance. When quicker than lightning, he 
darted from his concealment, and with redoubled fury poured forth 
such tornadoes, as to wrench three summits from the mountain's top, 
and hurled them through the regions of space in the southern or In- 
dian Ocean. The summits thus hurled into the ocean, raised their 
stately heads far above its surface. * Upon the very heights of those 
summits,' exclaimed the three giants, ' build for us the royal city, 
which we before demanded.' According to this order, a royal city 
was built, to which was given the name of Lanka or Ceylon." 

The Portuguese discovered the island and got footing in it in 1505. 
In 1658, the Dutch got possession, and the States General held it 
till 1796, when it fell into the hands of the English. From that date, 
until 1802, it was under the control of the East India Company, 
when it became a colony of the Royal Government, and has so re- 
mained ever since. 

Previous to the insurrection and war in 1815, the British posses- 
sions, in Ceylon, formed a belt round the island, varying in breadth 
from six to sixty miles; and the interior provinces which were cut 
23 



178 EXPORTS OF CEYLON. 

off from all communication with the sea, belonged to the Kandyan 
monarch, whose capital was in the centre of his dominions. Of his 
fate mention has been already made. 

The following return of exports, which is authentic, will convey 
a more definite idea of the commerce of the island than any thing 
we have hitherto stated. 



179 



Exports of the Island of Ceyloiij 
From 1831 to 1834; 



COMPILED FROM THE RETURNS OF THE SEVERAL COLLECTORS OF THE CUSTOMS. 







TOTAL VALUE OP AKTICLES EXPORTED 








IN EACH 


YEAH,* 




ARTICLES OP 


' EXPORT. 










1831. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 




Great Britain, 


£ 


£ 


£ 


£ 


206 


40 


187 


153 


Arrack to < 


India, 


18,587 


10,058 


12,237 


7,581 


{ 


Foreign States, 




4 




2 


Arecanuts 


India, 


9,005 


11,173 


11,274 


8,405 


Foreign States, 


59 


73 


50 


121 


Arrow-root 


Great Britain, 
India, 


5 
1 


151 
1 






Aroipo 


India, 


15 




24 


25 


Ammunition 


India, 






24 




Anchors 


India, 








3 


Asses 


India, 
'Great Britain, 




35 


13 


115 


Bees'-wax 


India, 

U. S. of America, 


88 


7 


19 

7 


19 




^Foreign States, 


18 


1 






< 


k Great Britain, 


5,187 


2,684 


407 


825 


Black pepper 


India, 


32 




9 


1,464 




[ Foreign States, 




2 




3 


Black lead 


) Great Britain, 
[ India, 


534 


281 


126 
1 


1,205 


Baskets, bags, 

&C. 


I India, 

< Great Britain, 


149 

2 


371 


82 
3 


49 


( Foreign States, 


32 


65 


4 


2 


Betel leaves and 
flowers 


I India, 


5 


2 




4 


Bicho do mar and 


\ India, 

} Foreign States, 


10,036 


1,253 


1,033 


1,229 


shark fins 






90 




Brass and copper 


i India, 

< Great Britain, 


7 


5 


6 


6 


wares 


( Foreign States, 


1 


2 







* The fractional parts in these Tables have been omitted. 



180 



EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CEYLON, 







TOTAL VALUE OF ATITICLES EXPOUTED j 








IN EACtt TEAR. 




ARTICLES OF EXPORT. 










1831. 


1S32. 


1833. 


1834. 


Boats and canoos to 


India, 


£ 


£ 


£ 


£ 




13 






Bricks and tiles 


India, 


4 


2 






Beer 


India, 


360 


420 


396 




Biscuits 


India, 










Bark for tanning j 
leather < 


. India, 


2 


5 


3 


16 


Brimstone 


( Great Britain, 


80 








India, 


100 








Blocks 


India, 










Buckets < 

1 


India, 
Foreign States, 




1 






Books < 


, Great Britain, 
' India, 




65 






Bandies < 

- 


[ Great Britain, 




30 






7 ' 

} India, 


4 


130 


60 




( Great Britain, 


5 


13 


14 


7 


Cocoanuts 


India, 
' Foreign States, 


2,654 


3,172 


5,594 


4,231 


i 


6 


10 


22 


3 




'Great Britain, 


14,267 


50,347 


23,585 


31,748 


Coffee 


India, 


5,393 


4,005 


2,165 


5,133 


Foreign States, 


8 


94 




1,755 




^U. S. of America, 




2,479 


260 




{ 


■"Great Britain, 


7,066 


6,047 


4,525 


4,886 


Cocoanut oil < 


India, 


152 


819 


1,347 


219 


1 


Foreign States, 


90 


15 




62 




'Great Britain, 


30,000 


30,975 


8,255 


31,436 


Cinnnamon 


India, 


1 




4 


1,305 


U.S. of America. 




225 


13 






^Foreign States, 


9 






2,817 


Confectionary, ' 
&c. 


I Great Britain, 
1 India, 


84 


4 


15 


19 


' Foreign States, 










Copperahs 


1 India, 

' Foreign States, 


725 


912 


1,043 


1,920 




'Great Britain, 


73 


533 


397 


147 


Cinnamon and ^ 
clove oils 


U.S. of America, 




6 


6 




Foreign States, 
^India, 


















190 




'India, 


2,824 


3,237 


3,294 


4,653 


Coir (loose) 


Foreign States, 


60 


17 


442 


125 


ropes, &c. 


U. S. of x'\merica, 




124 


1,329 






^ Great Britain, 


1,068 


347 


3,446 


409 


Calamander 


1 Great Britain, 
' India, 




7 


11 




wood 1 


6 


26 






Chunam 


India, 


7 


7 


5 


12 



FROM 1831 TO 1854. 



181 







TOTAL VALUE OF ATITICLES EXPORTED 








IN EACH TEAU. 




-ARTICLES 


OF EXPORT. 










1831. 

£ 


1832. 
£ 


1833 


1834. 


Camels 


to India, 


£ 


£ 




22 








C Great Britain, 
^ India, 


334 


250 


214 


551 


Cardemoms 


34 










I Foreign States, 












C Great Britain, 

^ India, 

( Foreign States, 






3 




Curry stuffs 


257 


87 


155 


173 




30 


2 




18 




C Great Britain, 




1 






Candles 


< U S. of America, 






5 






f India, 


117 


212 


52 




Copper 


India, 


5 


24 


102 




Chanks, or 


S India, 


479 


736 


430 


1,344 


chanks' rings 


) Foreign States, 




21 


414 


54 


Cutlery 


India, 


3 








Chuja, or dyeing 


^ India, 

( Great Britain, 


833 


671 


400 


714 


roots 










Carsingoes 


India, 


2 


3 


1 






C India, 


3 


12 


12 


15 


Cotton 


< Great Britain, 
( Foreign States, 








1 


Cocoanut shells 


S India, 

( Foreign States, 


282 


123 


23 


54 




C India, 


789 


275 


892 


7 


Cotton clothes 


< Foreign States, 
( Great Britain, 








6 


Cordage (Eu- 
rope) 


> India, 










Copper coin 


India, 


60 


135 






China wares 


^ Great Britain, 










} Foreign States, 










Casks, &c. (emp- 


S India, 

( Foreign States, 


21 


29 


1 




ty) 












C Great Britain, 






179 




Caxpoe 


< India, 

( Foreign States, 






47 




Chessmen 


S Great Britain, 
( India, 




30 
1 






Canvass 


India, 










Cotton thread 


S Foreign States, 
( India, 


7 












12 




5 


Carts 


India, 










Cloth (woollen) 


India, 










Cinnamon water 


Foreign States, 


1 








Colored paper 


India, 










Corks 


Foreign States, 











182 



EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CEYLON, 







TOTAL VALUE OF ARTICLES EXPORTED 








IN EACH TEAK. 




ARTICLES 


OF EXPORT. 










1831. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 


Curiosities 


. { Great Britain, 
( India, 


£ 

1 


£ 


£ 


£ 


31 


150 


15 






5 


32 


3 


18 


Cadjans 


India, 


3 








DaiTimes, &c. 


^ India, 

( Foreign States, 


195 


161 


116 


192 




4 


4 


1 


1 


Deer horns 


Great Britain, 












C Great Britain, 


27 


55 


151 


68 


Ebony wood 


< India, 

( Foreign States, 


545 


442 


77 


607 
133 


Ennpty bottles 


India, 






4 




Elepiiants 


India, 




303 


13 


60 


Earthen wares 


^ India, 

\ Foreign States, 






1 






C Great Britain, 


321 


652 


195 


40 


Furnitures 


•< India, 

( Foreign States, 


175 


279 

2 


60 


131 


Fruits and vege- 


S Great Britain, 
( India, 










tables 


74 


153 


101 


157 


Firewood 


India, 


2 


19 


14 


13 


Fowling pieces 


^ India, 

I Foreign States, 










Grinding stones 


\ India, 

( Foreign States, 


6 


2 


7 
2 


1 


Gems 


India, 










Gorkas 


^ India, 

} Foreign States, 


4 


15 


5 


3 


Ghee 


\ India, 

( Foreign States, 


236 


111 


137 


150 




41 


32 


6 


21 


Ginger 


Great Britain, 








3 


Grease, &c. 


^ India, 

( Foreign States, 


6 




1 


7 












Grains 


^ India, 

} Foreign States, 






147 


1,117 










2 


Gunny bags 


5 India, 

( Foreign States, 


37 


44 


28 




Girkins 


India, 










Garden seeds 


India, 










Gum copal, &c. 


^ U. S. of America, 
( Great Britain, 


2 




16 




Gamboge 


U, S. of America 






1 




Glass wares 


India, 






10 






C Great Britain, 


280 


1,587 


415 


696 


Horns 


< India, 

( Foreign States, 


27 


77 


32 
3 


738 


Haberdashery 


Great Britain, 











FROM 1831 TO 1834. 



183 







TOTAL VALUE OF AIITICLES EXPOBTED 








IN EACU 


TEAR. 




' ARTICLES 


OF EXPORT. 










1831. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 


Haberdashery 1 


S India, 

} Foreign States, 


£ 


£ 


£ 


£ 


1 


20 






Hides of deer 


Great Britain, 










Honey, &c. 


5 India, 

} Foreign States, 


13 


31 


19 


21 
il 




C India, 


354 


541 


187 


82 


Hides and skins 


< Foreign States, 






76 


■ 




( Great Britain, 




224 


1 




Hats and bon- 
nets 


> India, 










Hog's lard 


Foreign States, 










Horses 


India, 




60 


145 


78 




'Groat Britain, 


73 


36 


30 


7 


Ivory 


India, 


142 


57 


18 


36 


Foreign States, 












\U.S. of America, 




2 


1 




Iron wares 


5 India, 

( Foreign States, 










Ilpe seeds 


Foreign States, 










Images 


India, 




20 






Iron 


India, 


300 








Iron chains 


Foreign States, 
i Great Britain, 










Jewelry 


< India, 

( Foreign States, 


155 


250 


2 


30 


Jars (empty) 


India, 












C India, 


1,179 


1,641 


1,001 


1,414 


Jaggery 


< Foreign States, 
( Great Britain, 


177 

100 


7 




22 


Junk 


5 India, 

( Great Britain, 


1 


20 
15 






Live stock 


India, 
{ Great Britain, 


28 


3 


35 


52 


Looking glasses 


^ India, 

I Foreign States, 

C India, 




115 


5 




Medicines 


^ Great Britain, 
( U. S. of America 
C Great Britain, 




1 






Mats, (fee. 


< Foreign States, 
f India, 










Millinery 


5 India, 

( Foreign States, 










Marmel water 


S India, 

( Foreign States, 


2C 


) ? 


1 4 


3 



184 



EXPORTS OF THE ISLA^'D OF CEYLON, 



ARTICLES OF EXPORT. 



Malabar slip- 
pers 

Marble stones 

Materials 

Musical instru- 
ments 

Nankeen 

Nets 

Oils 



Oil manstore 

Oakums 
Pearls 

Pearl oysters 

Planks, &c. 

Perfumery 

Palmeira raft- 
ers, &c. 

Precious stones, 
&c. 

Palmeira leaves, 
&c. 

Ponats 

Plants 

Palmeira nuts, 
&:c. 

Paints 

Pickles, &c. 

Palanquins 

Parrah measures 

Pitch 

Rattan 

Rosin 
Rice 

Shells 



Seeds 




India, 

> India, 

India, 
India, 
r Great Britain, 
-^ India, 

C Foreign States, 
rindia, 

< Great Britain, 
C Foreign States, 

India, 
5 India, 

( Foreign States, 
India, 

Great Britain, 
India, 
5 India, 

( Foreign States, 
5 Great Britain, 
) India, 

> India, 

India, 
India, 

\ India, 

India, 

Foreign States, 

India, 

India, 

India, 

Great Britain, 
5 India, 
I Foreign States, 

Great Britain, 
r Great Britain, 

< India, 

C Foreign States, 
rindia, 

< Foreign States, 
C Great Britain, 



TOTAI. VALUE OF ARTICLES EXPORTED 
IN EACH TEAR. 



1831. 



2 

35 



o 

57 
1 



4,231 

94 

10 

2 

9 



1832. 



£ 



1833. 



3 
166 

7 

1 

1,000 



5,343 

69 

100 

20 

9 



£ 



51 
17 



4,626 

20 

5 

5 

15 



1834. 



2 


2 


1 




126 


58 


7 


3 


3 


2 


1 

24 


78 


44 


472 


59 


30 


49 
33 


8 


378 


316 


753 


7 


9 

4 


4 



28 



29 
3 
5 



4,417 
125 



10 



33 
75 
43 
2,602 
737 
10 



FROM 1831 TO 1834. 



165 







TOTAL VALUE OF AKTICLES EXPORTED 








IN EACH 


TEAR. 




ARTICLES 


OF EXPORT. 










1831. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 


Staves ( 


,0 Great Britain, 


£ 


£ 


£ 


£ 












C Great Britain, 




7 


6 


4,164 


Satin wood 


< India, 


304 


291 


386 


485 




( Foreign States, 


97 


37 






Staves, &c. 


India, 




7 






Silver wares 


Great Britain, 


150 








Sea-moss 


India, 
C India, 


1 


85 






Salted provisions 


< Foreign States, 
( Great Britain, 










Salted fish, &c. 


S India, 

( Foreign States, 


44 


104 


144 


8 


Spears 


India, 










Sappan wood, 


C Great Britain, 




126 


57 


265 


&c. 


< India, 

( Foreign States, 


178 




44 


91 
243 


Saddle wood 


India, 










Salt 


India, 


1 




1,121 


4,991 


Sugar candy 


India, 










Stationery- 


India, 










Soft sugar 


India, 










Soap 


^ India, 

I Foreign States, 

C Great Britain, 




6 


4 




Spirit and liquors 


< India, 

C Foreign States, 

C U. S. of America, 




61 


75 




Spices 


< India, 

t Foreign States, 






3 




Silk 


India, 










Sulphur 


India, 










Saltpetre 


India, 










Sponge 


India, 








1 


Sunday tools 


India, 










Saddlery 


India, 












C Great Britain, 




4 




2 


Timbers 


< India, 


1,971 


2,245 


706 


1,115 




{ Foreign States, 


146 


30 


64 


33 


Tallow 


Great Britain, 




29 




166 


Tinsels 


India, 
C Great Britain, 


3 






1 


Tallipoots 


< India, 

I Foreign States, 


4 


1 






Tobacco 


1 Foreign States, 
I Great Britain, 


2 




1 





24 



186 



EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CEYLON, &C. 







TOTAL VALUE OF AUTICLES EXPOllTED 








IN EACH TEAR. 


ARTICLES 


OF EXPORT. 








1831. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 


Tobacco 1 


;o India, 


£ 


£ 


£ 


£ 


5,242 


1,741 


1,986 


5,032 


Tanks (iron) 


India, 


238 








Tamareen stones 


India, 


3 


5 


1 


3 


Tortoise shells 


India, 


21 


27 


39 


44 


Toys 


India, 










Tiles, &c. 


India, 










Tea 


5 Great Britain, 
( India, 










Tamareen 


Great Britain, 










Twine 


India, 




1 






Turmeric 


Great Britain, 










Tar 


India, 










Vinegar 


^ Great Britain, 
( India, 


34 


45 


1 

29 


25 


Velvet 


Foreign States, 










Winnows 


S Foreign States, 

( India, 

C Great Britain, 


1 

24 


10 

36 


7 


19 


Wines 


< India, 

( Foreign States, 






1,073 




Wearing appa- 
rel 


> India, 










Wooden parahs 


India, 










Wires 


India, 










Wire cloth 


India, 










White ware 


Great Britain, 






11 




Wagons 

Total 


India, 






28 




121,148 


156,008 


100,470 


145,833 



PEARL SHELLS. , 187 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

PEARLS AND PEARL-FISFIING OF CEYLON. 

December i 1835. 

A VERY extensive variety of beautiful shells is found in the waters 
of Ceylon, but those most esteemed are found at Trincoraalee, and 
may be met with for sale at Colombo, put up in satin-wood cases of 
different sizes, fitted with trays, setting one on top of the other. But 
the most prized of all the sub-marine productions, by princes, by 
orientals, and particularly by ladies, from the most ancient times, is 
the pearl, found in a shell, which, according to Lamark, is" named 
Mehagrina Margaritifera, and inhabits the Persian Gulf, the shores 
of Ceylon, the gulf of Mexico, the bay of Panama, and the gulf of 
California. According to the nomenclature of conchology, it is a 
bi-valve, or is composed of two halves^ and has at the posterior base 
a byssus, or beard, for the accommodation of which there is a notch 
between the two shells. By this byssus and a glutinous matter which 
it secretes, the animal attaches itself to rocks, stones, dead shells, 
&c., and it is also, perhaps, an adjuvant to its motions. The size of the 
pearl oyster varies in the different localities of its abode; but those of 
the same place do not differ much in this respect from each other: 
those of California, Panama, and Barhein in the Persian gulf, are large 
when compared with those taken from the pearl banks of Ceylon, 
which measure at the hinge, which is linear, from two to two and a 
half inches, and rectangularly to this base, from two and a half to 
three inches. These shells are thin and diaphanousi internally na- 
cred or pearlaceous, and externally rough, bearing the marks of the 
habitations of other animals, as sponges and some species of vermes, 
that penetrate the outside covering, or epidermis, and therein con- 
struct their dwellings. Those of the Persian gulf are thicker and of 



188 PEARL OYSTERS. 

twice the above dimensions: thej are smoother externally, covered 
with a greenish epidermis, and marked by dark-colored rays of from 
a quarter to half an inch in breadth. Again^ those found at Panama 
and those of California, particularly the latter, are very large, and the 
nacre is thick, forming what is termed * Mother of Pearl.' A very 
considerable profit is derived from carrying these shells from Califor- 
nia to China, where they are manufactured into a variety of ornamen- 
tal and fancy articles. 

Pearl oysters, the natives of Ceylon think, descend from the clouds 
in showers of rain, and, according to Argensola, in a History of the 
Moluccas, " At a certain season, are wont to open their mouths, first 
opening the shell, and receive the subtle and substantial dew from 
which they conceive pearls, the color depending on the quality of the 
dew: if they receive it pure, they beget white pearls, but if turbid, 
gray and other turbid colors. Sarmiento complained, they were thrice 
hid by nature; in the depth of the sea, in the shell, and within the 
animal inhabiting it."* — After escaping from the egg, or embryo 
state, pearl oysters are seen in immense clusters, floating about 
the sea; at this time they are so very small, that a casual observer 
would pass tlie floating masses, believing them to be some kind 
of fish spawn, but never suppose them to be oysters. In this state, 
the sport of wind and current, they are driven round the coasts of 
Ceylon, until increased size causes them to sink to the bottom. 
They then attach themselves to rocks, generally of coral, or to 
any heavy substance, by means of the beard, similar to that of the 
common muscle, with which nature has furnished them, or they ad- 
here to each other in clusters. On removing a wooden buoy, that had 
been attached to an anchor, about six weeks, in the port of Colombo, 
it was brought on shore, covered with pearl oysters, nearly as large 
as a shilling. The finest pearl in the possession of the Maricair of 
Killicarre is said to have been obtained from a bank off Chilaw; but 
it appears that oysters very seldom arrive at perfection on any banks 
except on those off Arippo. The coral banks off the coasts of this 
island, lie from one to six or eight miles from the shore, generally ex- 
posed to the strength of the monsoons and currents; those near Arip- 
po appear to be the least exposed.! 

* Viageal Estrecho de Magallanes For el Capitan Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa. 
En los Alios de 1579, y, 1580. Madrid, 1768. 

■j- Remarks on the Pearl Fisheries by a correspondent of the Colombo Journal, 
Nov. 10, 1832. 



LOCALITIES OF PEARL OYSTERS. 189 

Near Muscat, I have found pearl oysters from the size of a dime 
to twice that of those of Arippo, adhering by their beards in crevices 
of rocks, left bare by the tide^ and the very small ones, to the under 
side of masses of rock, lying in water two or three feet deep, many 
of which I turned over. They were mingled with other shells and 
sponges, and some were even hidden by themj and one could not avoid 
the impression that the young oysters had selected such retreats, to 
be secure from the attacks of larger and more active animals. But 
their number was insignificant, when compared with the thousands 
fished up from what are termed pearl banks. 

"The last three fisheries on the Arippo banks, have been in from 
five and a half to seven fathoms water, protected on the west and 
south-west by a ridge of sand and coral, extending from the north 
point of an island called Caredivan. Coming from seaward over this 
ridge, in two and three quarter or three fathoms water, you rapidly 
deepen to seven fathoms in the immediate neighborhood of the oyster 
beds: besides this peculiar protection from the violence of the south- 
west monsoon, the coral banks to the northward of the pearl banks 
are in many parts nearly level with the surface of the sea, and may 
form an essential protection to the oysters from the currents of the 
north-east monsoon. 

"Thus secure in deep water, lie the quiescent oysters, adhering to 
their coral homesr until age has enfeebled the fibres of their beards, 
and then, most of them breaking from their hold, are found in per- 
fection on a sandy bottom near the coral beds. Two-thirds of the 
oysters taken up last fishery were from a sandy bottom. 

** One of the most intelligent pearl divers I have met, fixes the age 
of the oyster at six and a half years when it breaks from the rock: he 
does not think it can forsake the rock at its own pleasure^ but when 
separated it has the power of moving on a sandy bottom, generally 
with the hinge directly in advance. When I first sounded on the 
ridge which runs from Caredivan island, I was struck with its impor- 
tance as a guide to the particular spots of oysters, and was surprised 
I had never heard of its existence. I caused inquiry to be made, and 
after some time was informed, that the natives of that part of the 
country, have a wild notion of a powerful queen having resided at 
Kodremalle, and that the dead from the city were placed on an island 
in the sea, which has disappeared; nevertheless, I am inclined to be- 
lieve the ridge to be rising coral and sand. 

" Before the fibres of the beard break and the oysters separate, 
they are in immense heaps and clusters. A diver describing how 



190 AGE OF PEARL OYSTERS. 

thick they were on the bank, placed his hand to his chin; a more in- 
telligent man estimated the depth of the beds of oysters seldom to 
exceed eighteen inches, and explained that large rocks at the bottom, 
when covered with oysters, may be mistaken for heaps of oysters 
themselves. 

" Pearl oysters are said to arrive at perfection in seven years: 
after attaining this age they soon die. I heard of an attempt being 
made to remove pearl oysters, as common oysters are removed in 
Europe, to richer and more secure ground, but without success. I 
once attempted to convey some alive from Arippo to Colombo by sea, 
having the water frequently changed, but on the second day they 
were all dead. 

" Persons who may have been in the babit of considering a pearl 
oyster a treasure, will be astonished to learn that a bushel of them 
may be purchased at Arippo during a fishery for a less sum, than a 
bushel of oysters can be bought for at Feversham or Colchester. 

** The best pearls are generally found in the most fleshy part of 
the oyster, near the hinge of the shell, but pearls are found in all 
parts of the fish and also adhering to the shells. I have known sixty- 
seven pearls of various sizes taken from one oyster. It is by no 
means certain that every oyster contains pearls; they are seldom 
found in those oysters that would be selected as the finest for eating: 
this favors the opinion that pearls are produced by disease in the fish, 
and, therefore, pearl oysters are seldom eaten, being considered un- 
wholesome. If a pearl be cut into two pieces, it will be seen that it 
is formed of separate coats or layers, similar to those of an onion; 
and it is no doubt formed of decomposed particles of shell." 

In this opinion, that pearls are ' formed of decomposed particles of 
shell,' the correspondent of the Colombo Journal is mistaken; but, to 
understand the subject clearly, it will be necessary to say a word or 
two on the growth and organization of shells generally. 

It must be kept in view that shells are the hard coverings or domi- 
cils of a kind of animals whose organization, though sufficiently per- 
fect for all the purposes to which they are destined, is comparatively 
of a low grade. These animals are possessed of an apparatus, of 
muscles for motion, another for digestion and nutrition, and of 
organs for circulating a fluid, which, from certain purposes to which 
it is applied, may be termed blood.' Some have, in addition to these 
rudiments of animal life, besides the sense of touch, that of seeing, 
of hearing, of smelling and of taste; but in the most elementary con- 



FORMATION OF PEARLS. 191 

stitution alluded to, there is the basis for organs, endowed with the 
function termed secretion, which is absolutely necessary for the 
maintenance and continuation of animal existence. 

By the term secretion is meant the active process of an organ or 
gland in producing its peculiar fluid, which is also termed its secre- 
tion ^ and this secretion is always the same from the same gland 
when in a normal condition: for example, the liver secretes bile, the 
lachrymal gland, tears, and the salivary gland, saliva^ but the func- 
tion of one gland is never assumed by another. 

Most shell- wearing animals are produced from eggs which contain 
the minute animal in its shell, then very delicate and scarcely large 
enough for the accommodation of the new being. As his size in- 
creases, nature sets to work and enlarges it by the process of secre- 
tion and deposition of shelly matter, a function performed by the 
skin, making the domicil larger and thicker as he grows older, until 
the animal reaches adult age, when the function is carried on less 
actively, unless stimulated by adventitious circumstances. The 
shelly matter, when first eliminated from the gland, or secreting 
surface, in the pearlaceous shells, is generally of a bluish white color 
and of rather more consistence than milk; but in a short time the 
fluid part, gradually disappearing, leaves a solid and delicate coating, 
closely adhering, and so nicely joined, that it is not at once per- 
ceived where the junction has taken place between the old and new 
shelly matter. It is probable, that after adult age, this function is 
called into action at fixed periods, which may be at the season of pro- 
creation: in the common oyster, it occurs in the United States, pro- 
bably twice a year, in the spring and autumn, when the animal is 
said to be in its milk. Owing to an untimely suspension of the 
secreting process in certain cases, we meet with irregularities in the 
forms of shells of some species. Now, by the v.ery same function 
which constructs the shell and increases its size, as the necessity of 
the animal inhabiting it requires, both the rough exterior and beauti- 
fully nacred interior of the pearl shell, as well as of many others, 
are produced; the dimensions and thickness of the shell depending' 
altogether upon the size and activity of the secreting organs. In the 
higher grades of animal life, when a bone is fractured or some of the 
soft parts are injured, nature immediately makes an effort, and fre- 
quently succeeds in repairing the damage; and the same holds true 
in the low grade of animalization, wherein shell -covered animals are 
classed; for when a shell is accidentally injured, either by fracture 
or perforation, its inhabitant at once sets about secreting the mate- 



192 COMPOSITION AND FORMATION OF PEARLS. 

rial for its repair. I have in mj possession several very large limpets 
from Acapulco, which have been attacked on the outside by a species 
of boring shell, like the date-fish of the Mediterranean, and nearly 
perforated — indeed, would have been so entirely, had not the animal 
in the limpet met the inroad of his enemy, by a barrier of shelly 
matter, deposited on the interior surface of his domicil. 

This shelly matter is composed of an animal and mineral sub- 
stance^ and according to the predominance of one or the other, will 
be the toughness or friability of the shell. The species, which in 
general contain the most animal matter are those, apparently, whose 
structure is fibrous and pearlaceous or nacred. According to M. 
Hatchett, they consist of the subcarbonate of lime and coagulated al- 
bumen. The nacre of the pearl itself is composed of 66 parts of 
the former and 34 of the latter in the hundred.* 

With these facts before us, it is much more plausible to suppose, 
that instead of being the result of decomposition or decay, pearls are 
formed by a secretive process, or composition; but, that it is a 
disease which urges the animal to a superabundant secretion seems 
to be very generally admitted: and we are told by Blainville, that 
M. de Bournon thinks every pearl contains some extraneous sub- 
stance in its interior: if this be true, the difficulty of accounting for 
the origin of the pearl ceases. We know that when foreign sub- 
stances are by chance lodged in the human body and not removed, 
they are in many instances soon encased in a covering of a membra- 
nous texture to relieve the circumjacent parts from the irritation and 
inflammation that might otherwise follow: in this way musket and 
pistol balls remain in the body for years without producing much in- 
convenience; and in this way, too, a foreign substance forms the 
nucleus of vescical calculus. Now, if this be a law, common to all 
forms of animal life, we may very readily conceive that a particle of 
sand, finding its way from the bank into the oyster, might urge the 
animal to free itself from the irritation thus induced, to envelop the 
sandy particle with nacreous secretion; thus forming a pearl, the 
configuration of which would depend upon the form of the nucleus 
and the muscular action to which it might be subject. 

It has been observed for a long time, that the nacreous matter, 
which forms pearls, is entirely analagous to that which lines the in- 
ternal face of many univalves, and of a certain number of bivalves; 

* Manuel De Malacologie et de Conchy liologie, Par M. M. Ducrotay de 
Blainville. Paris, 1825. 



FEAKL-liANKS. 193 

also, it has been seen that they may be pioduc^d by a kind of extra- 
vasation of this matter wliich assumes a form more or less regular, 
and it has even been supposed that the animal might be forced to 
produce them, by piercing the shell from the outside; for then, in 
order to bush or stop the hole, it would be under the necessity of ac- 
cumulating the nacreous matter at that point. This was indeed 
demonstrated by Linneus upon the Unios— a genus of fresh water 
bivalve — of the rivers of Sweden, so that, in a manner, he created a 
kind of artificial pearlery (perliere^) but, besides this sort of pearls, 
rarely large and regular, and all of which bear the mark of the pe- 
dicle of attachment of a greater or less size, it appears that they are 
produced in the animal itself, and probably in the substance of its 
skin or pallium, and that from this source are obtained the largest 
and most beautiful pearls of India. For this reason, both Lamark 
and Blainville are of opinion, that the pearl is the result of disease; 
but, I cannot conceive of a failure of design so great in the works of 
the * Architect Divine,' as that of creating a class of animals in a 
state of disease; for it appears that very few pearl oysters are found, 
which do not contain some extraordinary nacreous formation. And 
we may infer, from the experiments of the great Swedish naturalist, 
that external irritation is sufficient to excite pearlaceous secretion in 
abnormal quantity, or, in other words, a disease which results in the 
formation of pearls. 

The pearl-banks of Ceylon, which have been celebrated for many 
a year, are in the gulf of Manaar, between its north-western coast, 
and that of the Indian Peninsula, and not far from Arippo. The 
fishery is a government monopoly, and, being managed on very just 
and politic principles, is the only unobjectionable one of whicli I have 
any knowledge. The banks are fished on account of the government; 
the oysters are sold in lots of one thousand, on the spot, to the high- 
est bidder. As there can be no certainty of the quantity or quality 
of pearls a heap of oysters may contain, the pearl fishery must attract 
many to speculate, from the gamester-like interest thus thrown 
around it. 

In the month of November, between the close of the south-west 
and commencement of the north-east monsoon, when calms prevail, 
the banks are examined by the collector of Manaar, who is also the 
supervisor, attended by the inspector and an interpreter. 

"The vessels employed on these examinations," says the corre- 
spondent of the ' Colombo Journal,' *' are a government guard vessel, 
25 



194 PEARL FISHING. 

two sailing boats from the Master Attendant's department at 
Colombo, and about eight native fishing boats from Manaar and 
Jaffna. On these occasions the boats are furnished with one diving 
stone and two divers. Five or six native headmen, called Adapa- 
naars, also attend and go in the boats, to see that the divers perform 
their duty, and take notes of the reports given from time to time by 
the divers for the information of the supervisor. 

" Samples of oysters are taken up and forwarded to Colombo with 
a report on the state of the banks by the supervisor. On these sam- 
ples depends the decision of government as to a fishery the following 
March. 

*• So many years had passed since the fishery of 1814, without one 
of any consequence having taken place, that it gave rise to various 
conjectures as to the cause of failure. Some were of opinion that 
violent winds and currents buried the oysters in sand, or drove them 
entirely away; some supposed the Adapanaars and divers employed 
at examinations gave false reports, and the banks were plundered 
by boats from the opposite coast. It was also said that former fishe- 
ries had been so extensive, as to have injured the oyster beds. The 
natives attributed it to various descriptions offish, and also to a fail- 
ure of seasonable rain, which they deem absolutely necessary to bring 
the oyster to perfection. 

*'To prevent plunder, a Government vessel has been kept stationed 
on the banks during the season of the year that boats can visit them. 
To ensure correct reports, diving-bells have been used to enable Eu- 
ropeans to go down at examinations. 

*' Without venturing to contradict a pretty general opinion, that 
the failure of pearl fisheries for so many years has been owing to the 
eSect of strong winds and currents, I am by no means ready to ad- 
mit this as the cause. Too much confidence in the knowledge of the 
Adapanaars may have led to error, and consequent failure; they are 
not like the experienced fishermen of Europe: indeed, they are not 
fishermen; being unable to manage their own boats. 

*' Energy like that of our own seamen is no where to be found within 
the tropics, and cannot be expected of (he Adapanaars, but I cer- 
tainly did expect to find them excelling the common fishermen of the 
country. They appear to read the compass, and are in possession of 
fixed courses steered by their ancestors, from Arippo to the various 
pearl-banks. They are useful as a medium of communication between 
the divers and the ofiicers of the fishery. Little, indeed, appears to 



PEARL FISHING. 195 

have been the improvement of the fisliermen, or of tlieir means of 
fishery, since the days when the pearls of Cleopatra's ear-rings were 
landed at Condatchy. 

"The pearl-banks off Arippo and Condatchy, lie at a considerable 
distance from the coast, which is very low and presents hardly any 
objects which might serve as land -marks, the banks are extensive, the 
masses or beds of oysters being of various ages according to the sea- 
sons they may have settled. Very many of these masses or beds are 
by no means so extensive as has been imagined, and nothing is more 
easy, than to mistake one bed for another, particularly by the Ada- 
panaars, who are guided chiefly by the course they steer from the Do- 
ric at Arippo; and that which they call the N. E. chivel to-day may 
be called S. E., to-morrow. 

*' I have heard that samples of oysters have frequently been taken 
up by order, from banks inspected the previous year, and found no- 
wise improved, and sometimes the samples have been younger. This, 
I venture to say, shows that although there has been no difficulty in 
finding plenty of oysters on the banks, there has been great difficulty 
in finding the same spot a second time, and proves that the greatest 
care and skill are necessary to mark the particular spots, beds, or 
masses on the bank from whence the samples are taken^ and this is 
not to be expected by mere compass bearings and soundings, or even 
by astronomical observations, but requires a union of talent and pro- 
fessional tact with alacrity in the pursuit. These necessary qualifi- 
cations will ensure considerable success in the fishing, and a conse- 
quent increase of the revenue derived from this source." 

When the examination thus made results favorably, an advertise- 
ment, running as follows, is issued:—- 

PEARL FISHERY. 

*' Notice is hereby given, that a Pearl Fishery will take place at 
Arippo in the island of Ceylon, on or about the 1st of March, 1836, 
and that the banks to be fished are as follows: — 

"The north part of the Chivelpaar, estimated at 100 boats for 3 
days. 

"The south part of the Chivelpaar, estimated at 100 boats for 4 
days. 

" The Modorogammo, estimated at 100 boats for 10 days. 

" It is, therefore, recommended to such boat owners and divers as 
may wish to be employed at the said fishery, that they should be at 
Arippo on or before the 20th of February next. 



\^ 



196 VALUE OF THE PEARL FISHERY. 

*• The number of boats to be employed, will be one hundred for 
seventeen days. 

"The fishery will be conducted on account of the government, and 
the oysters put up to sale, in such lots as may be deemed expedient. 

*'The arrangements of the Fishery will be the same as have been 
usual on simdar occasions. 

*' The payments to be made in ready money in Ceylon currency, 
or in the coins and at tlie rate specified in the government advertise- 
ment of the 14th December, 1833. 

*' Bills on the agents of this government at ten days' sight will in 
like manner be taken, on letters of credit being produced to warrant 
the drawing of bills on the said agents. 

"For the convenience of purcliasers, the treasurer at Colombo and 
the government agents have been instructed to receive deposites in 
money from such persons as may be desirous of becoming purchasers, 
and the receipts of the treasurer and agents will be taken in payment 
of any sums due on account of the Fishery. 

*' There is reason to expect, that the Fishing may continue for a 
farther time beyond that specified above. 

By order of the Right Hon. the Governor. 
P. Anstruther, 

Colonial Secretary. 
Colonial Secretary's Office. 
Colombo, December 4th, 1835. 

Here follows a long tabular statement of the condition of the banks 
and value of the oysters taken up. From the first named bank 5,296 
oysters were taken up, and the pearls obtained on an average from 
each thousand, are estimated to be worth 28 rupees or about 12^ dol- 
lars. From the second bank 5,507 oysters were taken up, and the 
average produce of a thousand, estimated at 18 rupeesj from the third 
bank, 4,928 oysters gave the average value of pearls to 1000, at about 
five dollars. Musters of the pearls are shown at the office of the co- 
lonial secretary. 

Under similar arrangements, the Fishery of 1833, yielded a reve- 
nue of £25,043|^, from three-fourths of the oysters landed^ one- 
fourth, according to custom being the property of the divers. Each 
bank is calculated to be available for twenty days in seven years^ and 
the annual net revenue from the pearl fishery is estimated ^14,000. 
At the Fishing in 1833, twelve hundred and fifty divers were em- 
ployed, of which number 1100 were from the coast of India, and only 
150 from Ceylon. 



PEARL FISHING. 197 

Notwithstanding the moral of that pretty story, entitled "The 
Tale of Cinnamon and Pearls," by the talented Miss Harriet Marti- 
neau, and in spite of the oblique arguments, based on false data, con- 
tained therein, it is very evident, that without the present, or some 
similar system in regard to it, the pearl fishery would soon become 
profitless^ the beds and banks would be destroyed and the oyster it- 
self disappear from the waters of Ceylon; and, therefore, to remove 
this monopoly, would be to kill the goose that lays the golden egg. 

" The boats used at pearl fisheries, measure from 8 to 15 tons with- 
out decks, head and stern nearly alike, the stern having a slight curve, 
the sternpost being generally straight, both have considerable rake, 
but the stern has most. A boat that will measure 40 i'eat over all, will 
not exceed 28 feet in length at the bottom, but keel they have none(!) 
The bottom is round, and the breadth of the boat increases to the top 
of the gunwales. They are rigged with one rude long mast, and carry 
one lug-sail made of light cloth, loosely sewed to a tight coir rope, 
so that it blows out very much. As a sailor would say, it is roped 
tight, bags, and stands badly on a wind. 

"These rude fittings subject them to frequent accidents: they are 
then assisted by the boats of the Master Attendant's department, and 
towed to the shore. 

"With a favorable wind, they sail very well; but cannot hold to 
the wind, or beat against it. They leave the shore with the land wind 
about midnight, to proceed to the bank, a distance varying from nine 
to twelve miles; they are led by the Adapanaar's boats, in the direc- 
tion of the Government guard vessels, (at anchor close to the fishing- 
ground) with lights hoisted on board to guide the boats to the place. 

" If they reach the bank before daylight, they anchor close to the Go- 
vernment vessel, until the Inspector hoists the signal, at half-past six, 
for diving to commence. When the weather is settled favorably, the 
land winds begin to die away as the sun gets up; by 9 or 10 it gets 
quite calm, and by noon (when the gun is fired from the Government 
vessel for all diving to cease,) a pleasant sea-breeze has sprung up to 
run the boats to land. 

*• When the regular land and sea-breezes are interrupted, which fre- 
quently occurs, they have to use their paddles, long sticks, with an 
oval piece of board lashed on the end, for the purpose of oars. Some- 
times the fishery is stopped, until the return of a favorable weather 
with land and sea-breezes. 

"The crew of a boat consists of a tindal, or master, ten divers, and 
thirteen other men, who manage the boat and attend the divers when 



198 PEARL DIVERS. 

fishing. Each boat has five diving stones, (the 10 divers relieving 
each other) five divers are constantly at work during the hours of 
fisliing. 

*'The weight of diving stones varies from 15 to 25 lbs. according 
to the size of the diverj some stout men find it necessary to have from 
4 to 8 lbs. of stone in a waist-belt, to enable them to keep at the bot- 
tom of the sea, to till their net with oysters. The form of a diving 
stone resembles a pine^ it is suspended by a double cord. 

*' The net is of coir-rope yarns, 18 inches deep, fastened to a hoop 
18 inches wide, fairly slung to a single cord. On preparing to com- 
mence fishing, the diver divests himself of all his clothes, except a 
small piece of cloth j after offering up his devotion, he plunges into 
the sea and swims to his diving stone, which his attendants have flung 
over the side of the boat; he places his right foot or toes between the 
double-cord on the diving stone, the bight of the double-cord being 
passed over a stick projecting from the side of the boat; by grasping 
all parts of the rope, he is enabled to support himself and the stone, 
and raise or lower the latter for his own convenience while he remains 
at the surface: he then puts his left foot on the hoop of the net and 
presses it against the diving stone, retaining the cord in his hand. 
The attendants take care that the cords are clear for running out of 
the boat. 

" The diver being thus prepared, he raises his body as much as he 
is able; drawing a full breath, he presses his nostrils between his 
thumb and finger, slips his hold of the bight of the diving stones, 
doubles the cord from over the projecting stick, and descends as ra- 
pidly as the stone will sink him. 

" On reaching the bottom, he abandons the stone (which is hauled 
up by the attendants ready to take him down again) clings to the 
ground and commences to fill his net. To accomplish this, he will 
sometimes creep over a space of 8 or 10 fathoms, and remain under 
water a minute; when he wishes to ascend, he checks the cord of the 
net which is instantly felt by the attendants, who commence pulling 
up as fast as they are able; the diver remains with the net until it is 
so far clear of the bottom as to be in no danger of upsetting, and then 
commences to haul himself up by the cord, (hand over hand) which 
his attendants are likewise pulling, when by these measures his body 
has acquired an impetus upwards, he forsakes the cord, places his 
hands to his thighs, rapidly ascends to the surface, swims to his diving 
stone, and by the time the contents of his net have been emptied into 
the boat, he is ready to go down again. One diver will take up in a 



SHARK-CHARMERS. 199 

day from one thousand to four thousand oysters. They seldom ex- 
ceed a minute under water, the more common time is from 53 to 57 
seconds, but when requested to remain as long as possible, I have 
timed them from 84 to 87 seconds. They are warned of the time to 
ascend by a singing noise in the ears, and finally by a sensation simi- 
lar to hiccup. 

*'Many divers will not venture down, until the shark-charmer is 
on the bank and has secured the mouths of the sharks. Some are 
provided with a written charm from the Priest, which they wrap up 
in oil cloth perfectly secure from the water, and dive with it on their 
person. Others, being Roman catholics, appear satisfied with an as- 
surance from their Priest that they have his prayers for their protec- 
tion; but I am informed they are all happy to secure the interest of 
the shark-charmer. 

" This worthy man is paid by Government, and is also allowed a 
perquisite of 10 oysters from every boat daily, during the fishery. 

** During my first visit to the pearl-banks, the shark-charmer in- 
formed me, that he had obtained the charm from his father, that the 
only real power of securing the mouths of the sharks was possessed 
by his family, and that it would be exceedingly dangerous to trust to 
any other person; he also gave me to understand that if he were to 
explain the charm to me, it would lose its virtue in my possession. I 
requested him to charm a shark to appear alongside the vessel, he 
said he could do it, but it would not be right, his business being to 
send them away. At several subsequent visits, I renewed my request 
without effect. 

*' During the few days we were employed marking off the ground 
to be fished last March, a shark was seen and reported to me. I in- 
stantly sent for the shark-charmer, and desired him to account for 
permitting a shark to appear at a time when any alarm might be dan- 
gerous to the success of the fishery. He replied, I had frequently 
requested him to summon a shark to appear, and he had therefore al- 
lowed this one to please me. 

" When on board a South-sea-man, I remember seeing a man bit- 
ten by a shark; the crew were employed cutting the blubber from a 
dead whale alongside, and on these occasions it is necessary for a man 
to get upon the whale in order to hook on the blubber to be hoisted 
into the ship. The man has a belt of canvass round his waist fas- 
tened to a cord, and is attended to by a man on deck. At these times 
innumerable birds and hungry fish assemble round the vessel. The 
unfortunate man had one foot pressed into the flesh of the whale, and 



200 EXTRICATION OF PEARLS. 

the other stretched in the sea, when the second-mate observed a shark 
in the act of seizing the man's leg; with great presence of mind and 
admirable precision, he darted his spade (the instrument he was using 
to cut the blubber) at the neck of the shark and nearly severed the 
head from the body, at the same instant that the animal had seized 
the man's leg. The teeth of one jaw made a serious wound, but the 
teeth of the other jaw only left a number of small holes in the skin, 
and in six weeks the man was able to resume his duty. It is only 
when pressed by hunger that sharks are so bold; they are naturally 
timid and would rarely venture near a body of divers; the noise made 
by the boatmen when at work is the great protection." 

During the fishing season, the shores of Arippo are enlivened by 
crowds of people from all parts of the country; divers, boat owners, 
speculators, and the curious, all assemble to behold, 

*' Pale glistening pearls, and rainbow colored shells," 

while the lapidary attends with his wooden stand and bow, to drill 
the pearls and fit them to be strung, so soon as they are got out of 
the oyster, which, according to all accounts, is a tedious and rather 
disgusting operation. The oysters are put into pens, and there left 
until the animal matter be softened by putrefaction, when it is sub- 
jected to frequent washings, and the pearls shine forth, emblems of 
purity in the loathsome mass. Some are of a bluish, some of a yel- 
lowish, and some of a whitish lustre; each class finds a ready mar- 
ket among its admirers; in the East, the bluish and yellowish vari- 
eties are most prized, but in the eyes of the christian fair, the pure 
white shines brightest. 

The pearl diver, though obnoxious to many casualties and to se- 
vere toil, is said to be longer lived, on an average, than coolies and 
other laborers; yet both Mrs. Hemans and Miss Martineau, in com- 
miserating their hard lot, seem to be impressed with the belief that 
they number fewer days than any other people of similar rank. That 
they receive a high compensation cannot be doubted, if we take as a 
criterion, the result of the Fishing of 1833, when each diver received 
£3^ 15s, 4(1. for eight days' labor; and it must be borne in mind, 
that able-bodied men do not receive in Ceylon more than sixpence 
per day: 

** A wild and weary life is thine, 
A wasting- task and lone, 
Tlioug-h treasure grots for thee may shine, 
To all besides unknown! 



TOWN OF COLUMBO. 201 

*• A weary life! but a swift decay 
Soon shall set thee fi'ee, 
Thou'rt passing' fast from thy toils away, 
Thou wrestler with the sea! 

*' In thy dim eye, on thy hollow cheek. 
Well are the death-signs read — 
Go! for the pearl in its cavern seek 
Ere hope and power be fled! 

" And bright in beauty's coronal 
That glistening shell shall be; 
A star to all the festive hall- — 
But who will think on thee? 

"None! — as it gleams from the queen-like head. 
Not one 'midst throngs will say, 
A life hath been like a rain drop shed, 
For that pale quivering ray."* 



CHAPTER. XIX. 

SKETCHES IN CEYLON. 

Deeemhert 1835. 

CoLUMBo is placed on the western coast of Cejlon, in six degrees 
and fifty-seven minutes of north latitude, and in eighty degrees of 
longitude east from Greenwich, tt is divided into two partsj one 
within the fort and the other outside of it, which is called the Pettah. 
The town within the fort is laid out regularly^ the streets are broad, 
Macadamized and planted with the hibiscus, which affords a pleasant 
shade; the houses are generally one story high, built in the Dutch 
style, with a porch or corridor in front, besides a paling, which en- 
closes a small plot of grass or flowers. The Pettah is much of the 

* Works of Mrs. Hemails. 
26 



20^ INHABITANTS — CONICOPLY. 

same character, except that it is but little shaded, and the dwellings 
are of a more humble appearance. The fort is chiefly inhabited by 
Europeans; the Pettah, by natives and castes, originally from India 
and the neighbouring islands. In 1832, the population was 31,519, 
consisting of Europeans, Burghers, Maiabars, Singhalese and Moors, 
besides a few Malays, Chinese, Parsees, Cafifres, and Patanys. And 
we may remark of the Asiatics, what cannot be universally said of 
christian nations, that wherever they go, or settle, they preserve 
unchanged their customs and costumes, as well as their peculiarities 
of physiognomy, from generation to generation. The reason of this 
appears to be, that their customs are more or less connected with 
their religious forms, to which they are in general bigoted adherents; 
and their costumes are typical of caste, the preservation and main- 
tenance of which is, in their opinion, an imperative duty, admitting 
of no compromise; and, therefore, the castes never intermarry with 
each other. And hence it is, that most eastern towns of note pre- 
sent such vaiious and interesting groups to the passing stranger. 
Besides the costumes already mentioned, we meet in the streets 
the degenerate Portuguese of moderate means, dressed in the fashion 
of his early ancestors, seated in a small carriage having three low 
wheels; two behind, and one in the centre of the fore-part of the 
vehicle, rigged like the fore-wheel of a velocipede, by which it is 
guided in any direction at the will of the passenger, while a naked 
slave imparts motion, pushing behind with all his force. 

Next, attention may be drawn to an India-skinned individual, 
called a "Conicoply," who, instead of appearing bareheaded after 
the fashion of his countrymen, the hair turned up with a tortoise- 
shell comb « la Greqiie, wears a blue velvet cap without vizor, 
having a sort of horn projecting forward from each side. A collar- 
less surcoat of bluish cotton, with pantaloons of the same, and sharp- 
toed slippers, make up the costume; but he has an ornament in each 
ear, consisting of a half dozen circles or rings, three or four inches 
in diameter, of fine gold wire, closely resembling a coil, depending 
to the shoulder. He has an inquiring look, and carries a book or a 
small packet of nicely folded white papers under the arm: one 
might detect in him, without question on the subject, the collector of 
bills, the dun by profession. Almost every public office, as well as 
mercantile house, has its conicoply to keep a look out for the detail 
of its fiscal affairs. 

While you stop to gaze, when for the first time you meet in the 
street an elephant harnessed to a cart, lazily swinging his great 



ITINERANT JEWELLERS. 203 

trunk from side to side, or flapping away the iiics with his monstrous 
ears, as he trots along, under the guidance of a naked Indian perched 
over his fore shoulders, you will find yourself surrounded, after the 
passing of the show, by a dozen Moors in cotton shirts or naked, 
except the kummerband, oifering for sale jewelry of all sorts, gems 
set and not set; some genuine, and otliers fair sophistications in 
glass. 

The first salutation, in short, sharp, clipped yet respectful tones, 
is, "Master, want buy water sapphire? — blue sapphire tne got — very 
fine." He is interrupted by a second, " Mooney stone, master, no 
buy? — fine mooney stone me got."— A third breaks in, "Master, 
starry stone, no buy? — me got cat's eye." While these are exhibit- 
ing their wares and flashing them in the sun-shine before your eyes, 
another pulls you by the sleeve from behind, and with a look and 
gesture intended to enhance the importance of the communication 
about to be made, says; " Sare, me got ruby, aqua marine, cinnamon 
stone;"— but he is cut short by another crying, " Topaz— carmago- 
rin, (from the Scottish, cairngorum:) no want buy, my master?" The 
instant, however, you manifest the slightest inclination to purchase 
by taking a stone in hand to examine, all except him to whom it may 
belong, stand back and silently await the result. You now ask the 
price and the jeweller answers, '* Me no say, master; me poor Moor- 
man — master, see good stone — -master, know good stone, have good 
price — what master give?" 

Not feeling confidence perhaps in your knowledge of the article, 
you insist upon his naming a price. After some hesitation and be- 
stowing a good deal of superabundant praise on the stone, displaying 
it at the same time in the most advantageous manner, the vender of 

"Gems from the mountain and pearls of the ocean," 

whispers, "Fifty dollar, very cheap." Then, unless you. be what 
they term a'griflin' or greenhorn, you will be careful what oifer 
you make, for " you must do as chapmen do, dispraise the thing you 
mean to buy," or you will probably pay dear for the whistle. Were 
you to ofl:*er one-fourth of the price named, you would very often 
pay ten dollars for a jewel not worth one, the vender putting it into 
your hand, with an air of one sacrificing his wares, saying, " Take, 
master, take." Therefore, gentle reader, should you ever visit 
Colombo, let me say to thee; Jipunta Vmd. But if the first stone 
do not please you, the same individual draws forth from the folds of 
his kummerband another of more brilliant aspect, and puts it into 



204 ^ LAPIDARIES. 

your hand, with an air which says, " There's a gem for you" — and so 
on till he has displayed his whole stock. Then the others importune 
you to look at the contents of their kummerband folds^ and there is 
no getting rid of them, except by offering a very trilling sum for a 
valuable gem; then away they go in disgust, but it is only to meet you 
again in an hour, at another turn of tiie street. 

Every day, while at Colombo, several of the tribe came on board 
in dhonies to sell jewelry and collections of shells, mostly from 
Trincomalee, very nicely arranged in baskets woven of palm leaves. 
Some brought uncut stones; others, knife-handles and snuff-boxes, 
made of elephant's teeth, (not tusks) which were to us novel and 
very pretty, from the wavy alternation of the osseous strata, which 
are white and of a deep king's yellow; others, again, offered gold 
chains, resembling in their fabric those made at Panama; and rose 
chains, made of very pure gold, in small square chased links, after 
the fashion of those of Manila; but it was necessary to be always on 
the alert, or they would palm upon you gold ornaments — " pure 
gold, all same, same make copper pans." Indeed, some on board 
made wonderful bargains, and discovered when it was too late, that 
their jewels were of some base metal nicely gilded. 

Among the most admired gems, were the moonstone, a fine species 
of feldspar; the cat's-eye, which is greenish gray, traversed by an 
opalescent streak of light, said to depend upon minute fibres of 
asbestos contained its composition; when this ray is perfect, the stone 
brings a great price. Cordiner states, that they have been sold in 
England even as high as ^150 each. But the most singular is the 
star-stone, a variety of sappliire of a grayisii blue color, which, when 
subjected to a strong light, presents a star composed of six delicate 
white rays, turn it whatever way you may. Amethyst of every 
variety of hue was offered for sale. 

In a ride through the Pettah, we stopped one day to witness the 
labors of the jewellers, or rather lapidaries. They sit under a ve- 
randa or shed, in front of the house, squatted on their heels behind 
a rude lathe, raised a few inches from the ground. On the end of its 
axle there is a round plate of iron or steel, about eight inches in 
diameter, placed vertically; which is made to revolve backwards and 
forwards by a drill-bow about four feet long, made of bamboo, and 
worked by the right hand, while the left applies the stone to be cut, 
held tightly between the finger and thumb against the wheel. A sort 
of emery, or finely powdered sapphire of coarse quality, moistened 
with water, is the only intermediate substance used in cutting the 



CEYLON DIAMONDS- — SPICY BREEZES. S05 

stone. One of the lapidaries, who seemed to be indifferently honest, 
told me, that what are called " Ceylon diamonds,'* are made of a 
species of tourmalin which is boiled for some time in cocoanut oil, 
before being cut, to make it perfectly transparent. A gentleman of 
the ship saw one of these jewellers manufacturing water-sapphire 
from the fragments of a decanter, and a glass fruit bowl. 

Among those things which the stranger anticipates most, on going 
to Colombo, is the pleasure of visiting what are termed the cinnamon 
gardens. The very name makes one think of Ceylon's "spicy 
breezes "—of flowers— of beautiful walks and of balmy airs redolent 
of fragrant odors| but it is all a pious imposition palmed upon us by 
an idle race of people, called poets. "Spicy breezes!" Such 
breezes never swept the olfactories of any man, any where, unless 
they were wafted from some grocer's shop or cook's pantry. It is a 
commonplace remark, by all new-comers to hot countries, " that 
though the flowers be brilliant in color, they are almost destitute of 
smell." The heat seems to be so great, that the essential oil, upon 
which the odor depends, is dissipated so rapidly, that it cannot accii- 
mulate in suflicient quantity to impart its peculiar fragrance to the 
flowerj and the same is true of tropical fruits generally. I have met 
with nothing under the sun's track, either in the east or west, corn- 
parable in this respect to our ov/n forests, at the season when the 
magnolia " may be scented afar oiij" and why travellers have lent 
their aid and sanction to poets in upholding and spreading the idea 
of Ceylon's, or any other land's " Spicy breezes," I am at a loss to 
imagine. 

While turning over some gazettes at the Colombo Library, on the 
day of our arrival, I Vvas addressed very politely by an elderly gen- 
tleman, who discovering me to be a stranger, introduced himself, 
and at the same time invited me with as many of my messmates as 
would accompany me, to breakfast with him the next day at Baga- 
telle, the name of his garden, and, lest I should forget the direction, 
requested the librarian to write the address for me, saying, " How- 
ever, any body can tell you where the former Commissary General 
lives; it is about four miles fiom town." Circumstances prevented 
us from taking advantage of the invitation for that day, but we did not 
fail to visit several times what is considered to be the best cinnamon 
garden, under private cultivation, in the neighborhood; and I am sure 
we shall long remember the cordial welcome, the unaiFected hospi- 
tality and kind attentions extended to us on these occasions, by Mr. 
L , and the ladies of his amiable and numerous family. 



206 RIDE TO BAGATELLE. 

About ten o'clock, one morning, we mustered a party of six or 
eight, and hired a *' bandy," sometimes termed a palanquin carnage, 
a long-bodied vehicle set on low wheels, capable of accommodating 
four passengers. The driver — a more appropriate name would be, 
leader— holds the head of tiie horse by a single rein a foot or two 
long, and trots along beside him the whole way. This personage is 
usually attired in a cotton jacket and kummerband, or only in a 
kummerband^ he keeps his body straight, holds his shoulders back, 
and does not swing his armsj and it is a subject of admiration, the 
speed and ease at which he travels six or eight miles, apparently at 
the end of the journey not more fatigued than his horse. These 
drivers excel the same class of people one sees at Bombay. 

Our party being accommodated in a bandy and a part of Mr. L 's 

carriage, drove out of the fort at the Galle gate, crossed the esplanade 
and race ground, a distance of about a mile, and then found the road 
running through forests or groves of cocoanuts, beneath the shade of 
which v/ere seen the white huts of the Ceylonese, as well as the 
bungalows and gardens of the English residents, who were named 

to me by Mr. L , as we passed along. The road is level, 

Macadamized, and, during the greater part of the day, completely 
shaded 5 it lies about a half mile from the sea, a glimpse of which is 
now and then caught through the alleys of tall trunked trees. The 
natives were seen variously employed. Some were bearing water in 
jars, suspended from the ends of a bamboo resting across the shoul- 
ders, and others were dispensing arrack from their little shopsj but 
every where the women were tiie most industrious and engaged in 
the most laborious employments. They wear a short, loose spencer 
or gown, which falls just low enough to hide the breasts, while the 
lower part of the person is clothed in numerous folds of colored 
cotton, quite neatly arranged. Children, up to the age of eight or 
ten years, go entirely naked, and are very numerous; indeed, my 
companion, who has twenty-four children by his present wife, ex- 
pressed his opinion that the climate is remarkably favorable to pro- 
creation, both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. Now and then 
we met a Boudhist priest, distinguished by his closely shorn head 
and eyebrows, and yellow robe cast about his person in such a man- 
ner, that the right arm and shoulder are left bare. A large banyan 
tree forms a sylvan arch over the road, some of its descending 
branches having taken root forty yards from the parent trunk, on the 
opposite side of the way. In short, the whole ride was so novel, so 
picturesque and possessing at the same time, a miniature-like neat- 



CINNAMON CINNAMON AND CLOVE OILS. 207 

ness and regularity, that one cannot but be pleased: one of our party 
declared, that he had never seen any thing so Eden -like, and that he 
felt himself nearer paradise than he had ever done before. 

We alighted at the mansion of Mr. L , and, after paying our 

respects to the ladies, were led through the cinnamon grounds; but 
there was no odor, no " spicy breezes," nor could we perceive any 
thing like a cinnamon smell, not even when the very bark, still at- 
tached to the stick, however, was put under our noses. At the sea- 
son of cutting, I was told by Mr. L— the odor was any thing but 

agreeable, bearing more of the hircine offensiveness than of the spicy 
aroma, upon which poets love to dwell. The leaves, however, which 
are from five to eight inches long, by about three broad, and of a 
dark shining green, when mature, emit a strong smell of cloves, if 
broken or rubbed in the hands. The cinnamon (the spice) is the true 
bark, outside of which there is a tasteless, cellular cuticle, which the 
cinnamon pealer scrapes off with his knife before he removes the 
spicy bark. Were it not for this cuticle, the essential oil might be 
evaporated by the heat of the climate, and leave but an inodorous, 
tasteless substance, instead of the aromatic, which is so highly 
prized. 

** Garden, sirl" replied a midshipman, when asked how he liked 
the cinnamon garden-—" garden, sir! — it is nothing but a wilderness 
of green bushes and shrubs;" and such, in fact, it is. The cinna- 
mon, when not interfered with, grows into a tree, twenty feet high, 
and eight or ten inches in diameter at the base of the trunk; but, 
when cultivated for the sake of its bark, it is not allowed to exceed 
eight or ten feet, with a diameter from one to two inches. The 
stalks, which shoot up in a cluster of eight or ten together, are cut 

once in about three years close to the ground. On Mr. L 's 

plantation the earth is accumulated around the roots, and, to retain 
the water, cocoanut husks are placed about them, which, in time, 
form an excellent compost. It is cultivated by suckers generally, 
and sometimes from the seed, in which case, the young plants are 
kept in a nursery for a year or two, and then transplanted. Besides 
cinnamon and cinnamon oil, the plant yields, from its dark green 
leaves, a clove oil, which affords a very considerable profit. 

While the Dutch held the government of the island, only a fixed 
quantity of cinnamon was allowed to be grown, the policy being to 
get as large a money return for as small a quantity as possible; and 
it is stated, that when the crop was greater than the demand, at the 
established price, the surplus was burned. Private individuals were 



208 SINGHALESE COINS AND BOOKS. 

inhibited its cultivation; nor were they permitted to cut a branch of 
the plant, even if it grew wild upon their estates, under the barbar- 
ous penalty of losing a hand. After the English got possession of 
Ceylon, the East India Company obtained a monopoly of the culti- 
vation and sale, which was held until 1832: its growth and exporta- 
tion have since been free, upon paying a duty of three shillings per 
pound on all qualities, equal to about six hundred per cent, on the 
cost of gathering, which is estimated at sixpence. During the exist- 
ence of the monopoly, all the cinnamon was collected by the agents 
of the Company, sorted, packed, and sent to England, whence it 
found its way to the different countries of the christian world. This 
course and policy brought an inferior article into market, under the 
name of cassia, which, from its cheapness, has, to a very great ex- 
tent, superseded the fine cinnamon. 

The cinnamon oil is obtained from the fragments of bark which are 
made in pealing, sorting, and packing. The estate also produces a 
great number of cocoanut trees. Their sap is collected and sold un- 
der the name of toddy, which, by distillation, yields arrack, the spi- 
rits chiefly used in India, and the fruit is manufactured into oil, and 
sold in England. Besides these sources of profit, the plantation af- 
fords a number of sappan trees. 

Mr. L has a considerable dash of the antiquarian in his tastes, 

and, during a residence of thirty years in different parts of Ceylon, 
has picked up much curious information relative to the inhabitants; 
he told me that, in digging, he had found several coins of Augustus 
Caesar. He showed us several Kandyan coins, and a book, written 
in Singhalese, upon leaves of the talipot tree. The leaves were about 
two inches wide, and sixteen long, and were laid uniformly together, 
between two heavy brass covers; but, instead of being secured by 
one edge, like our books, a cord was run through the leaves, about 
two inches from either end, and in the centre; so that they may be 
said to be rather strung than bound together. The writing is done 
by an iron point, or stylus, which is something held in a slit made in 
the fore finger, and rubbed over with a composition, which, being at 
once wiped off, leaves the scratched letters black, contrasting well 
with the cream white of the leaf. Some of these works are centuries 
old, and still appear fresh and unimpaired. 

Not the least interesting sight at Colombo is a very large elephant, 
employed every day in conveying great trees to the landing-place, 
where he piles them carefully, by aid of his tusks and trunk, thus 
performing, in a day, the work of twenty men. The strength and 



WORKING-ELEPHANT — SOCIETY AT COLOMBO. 209 

sagacity of the animal are wonderful, every body knows^ yet one 
cannot avoid expressing admiration when he sees him look from his 
small intelligent eye at a log, twenty or thirty feet long, and a foot 
or more in diameter, and then, taking it up in the middle, so that it 
will be accurately balanced across his tusks, carry it wherever di- 
rected. His driver is on excellent terms with him, and makes him 
perform a variety of tricks, such as holding out a foot by which to 
mount, &c. 

Judging from what we saw, the English society, consisting chiefly 
of the families of the civil and military officers of the government, is 
very pleasant, but not very extensive — at least, not sufficiently so to 
be split into circles. The usual routine of life seems to be lunch or 
tiffin about two o'clock, P. M., a ride or walk at five, and dinner at 
seven or eight. We dined daily at one house, or at another, but saw 
nothing essentially different from our own customs on like occasions. 
The dwellings usually stand some distance from the road, and, when 
guests are expected, the alleys leading from the high-way are usually 
lighted up by torches, formed of inflamed cocoanuts fixed on short 
staves, producing a pretty effect, seen through the thick foliage which 
every where prevails. This I first saw at the Governor's, and again 
at the mess-house of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment, where we spent a 
most social and agreeable night. 

It has been very correctly remarked, that Englishmen are less su- 
perlative in their language and less enthusiastic in their manners than 
we Americans commonly are^ they most resemble the phlegmatic 
Dutch, we the volatile French. Most of those gentlemen I had the 
pleasure of meeting were of liberal opinions^ but I was once or twice 
amused at certain hues of Bullism, which peeped forth when the con- 
versation turned on subjects wherein some little rivalry between the 
two nations is supposed to exist. 

On the night of the twenty-first we attended a ball at the King's 
House, given on the birth-day of Miss Horton, daughter of the go- 
vernor. For the pleasure of the evening we are particularly indebted 
to Lady Horton; the previous day had been appointed for sailing, 
and was postponed at her request. All were gay and agreeable, and 
the night passed happily away, A specimen of eastern luxury was 
seen in the ball-room, where constantly moving punkas, depending 
from the ceiling, fanned the dancers as they moved in the quadrille, 
or twirled in the waltz. 

Of the kind hospitality extended to us, on all hands, at Colombo, 
I might speak in the highest terms; particularly, were I to draw a 

2r 



210 DEPARTURE FROM CEYLON. 

general comparison between it and Bombay, in this respectj but I 
think silence on the subject is more becoming, and, perhaps, more 
agreeable to those whom I might name, should these pages ever meet 
their eye. I know it is common with travellers of the present day 
to name, in their journals, all those who have obliged them with a 
dinner J but, I cannot be convinced that private individuals are grati- 
fied by a public acknowledgment for the common courtesies of soci- 
ety, nor do I think it a legal tender for social civilities. 

On the 24th of December, after sunset, we got under way, bidding 
an unwilling farewell to Ceylon, which, whether considered in re- 
spect to its natural sources of wealth, its climate, or flourishing con- 
dition, is the brightest spot in the colonial possessions of the British 
crown, 

** We return — we return — we return no more! — 
So breathe sad voices our spirits o'er. 
Murmuring" up from the depth of the heart, 
"When lovely things with their light depart, 
And the inborn sound hath a prophet's tone. 
And we feel that a joy is for ever g"one." 



SKETCHES IN JAVA. 



VOYAGE TO JAVA. 21; 



CHAPTER XX, 



VOYAGE FROM CEYLON, AND SKETCHES IN JAVA. 

January^ 1836. 

The day after sailing from Colombo was nearly calm, and we 
found ourselves not far from Point de Galle. Two dhonies came 
alongside to sell various articles of jewelry — snuff-boxes and knife- 
handles, of elephants' teeth, and ladies' work-boxes, manufactured 
of calamander, and other woods of the country. Our visiters re- 
mained several hours, to our amusement and, perhaps, their profiti 
they observed the mode of traffic common throughout India, which 
is, to ask most unreasonable prices, and receive as much as they can 
obtain. One of them demanded five-and-twenty dollars for a box, 
and, at last, sold it for five; and another sold a desk for a dollar and 
a half, for which he had been asking ten. Their jewels were false; 
yet, when a trifling sum was ofl'ered for a yellow ring, gemmed with 
a glass emerald, the owner declared, "Master make foolish — good 
emerald, good pagoda gold;" but in the end was anxious to obtain 
the price he had at first most contemptuously refused. Towards 
sunset, having disposed of nearly all of their wares, the aquatic ped- 
lars left us, and the governor of Galle sent a boat alongside to in- 
quire the news. 

We stood away to the eastward, and the next day felt the favor- 
ing winds blowing freshly from the bay of Bengal; they brought us 
rain in plenty, which was deemed to be any thing but advantageous 
to the health of the persons on board. We were bound to Acheen, 
and several ports on the north-west coast of Sumatra; but the bad 
weather, in connexion with the sickly state of the ship, and other im- 
portant considerations, induced the commander-in-chief to shape a 
course directly for Java. We steered more to the southward, and, 
on the 6th of January, 1836, again entered the southern hemisphere. 



214 STRAITS OF SUNDA MAIL-BOAT. 

having crossed the equator for the third time since sailing from New 
York. 

Having heard no news from home, for eight months, we now looked 
forward to the straits of Sunda, with the pleasing anticipation of re- 
ceiving letters from the United States. On Sunday evening, the tenth 
of January, we descried the island of Sumatra enveloped in dark 
masses of clouds, and at eleven o'clock, P. M., we passed the island 
of Crokatoa, at the western entrance of the strait. The night was 
dark, and it rained occasionally with an accompaniment of terrific 
thunder and lightning, but the day dawned in all the tranquillity of 
smiling summer. The skies were serene and the air balmy and elas- 
tic. The island of Sumatra, clad in tropic green to the whaler's edge, 
rose high on the north, a few fleecy clouds still lingering around its 
summits; ''Java's palmy isle," stretched away, on the south, smiling 
under a luxuriant vegetation, and the point and town of Angier were 
visible from the ship. Many eyes were directed towards that point, 
over the smooth face of the waters, to catch the cheering sight of the 
mail-boat, which boards all vessels passing through the straits, to de- 
liver and receive letters; and owing to the liberality of the Dutch Go- 
vernment, (a solitary instance I believe,) this accommodation is free of 
expense. First, two canoes were descried, but only brought fruit and 
sea-turtle, and it was eight o'clock before the anxiously awaited boat 
reached the ship's side, and the postman stood on deck. He was a 
short, thick-set Malay, with close cut, shining black hair, and a maud- 
lin eye, dressed in a dirty blue jacket, ornamented with tarnished 
bell-buttons, and a pair of striped cotton breeches reaching to the knee, 
but without any other garment whatever. A leathern bag with lock and 
key, sustained upon the left hip by a broad belt over the right shoul- 
der, was his badge, and the object of our interest. It was soon opened 
to our examination, and after the strictest scrutiny, was found to con- 
tain a register of the ships visited, a few worn letters, directed in dif- 
ferent languages to various parts of the world, and a few others re- 
cently deposited for vessels expected, but not one for the Peacock 
or Enterprise. Here were blighted smiles and disappointment. The 
youngster who has been absent nine months from his home, for the 
first time in his life, and all the while confidently anticipating the 
pleasure of reading letters from his dearest friends, when he shall ar- 
rive at an appointed place, must be in a very philosophical frame of 
mind, if he do not look blank and feel his throat, to rub away a sort 
of choky sensation, that sudden disappointment is apt to create. 
Those who have experienced any thing of the vicissitudes of a na- 



THE MANGUSTIN ARKIVE AT BATAVIA. 215 

val life, should know the feeling well, and can understand the an- 
noyance of such an event. But even in this instance we did not de- 
spair^ we looked forward to Batavia, not doubting a moment, that we 
should there find letters, and before night the Angier mail-bag was 
almost forgotten. 

**The web in the leaves the spider weaves 
Is like the charm Hope hangs o'er men? 
Thoug-h often she sees it broke by the breeze, 

She spins the bright tissue again." ^^ 

Among the fruits offered for sale by the Javans in the canoes along- 
side, was one which is said to be without a rival in the world. It was 
presented to us on ropes, like onions in the Philadelphia market, and 
being new to him, the steward asked how they were to be cooked. 
This famed fruit is almost perfectly round, of from one and a half to 
three inches in diameter, with a smooth, hard cuticle of a reddish 
black color, and altogether its external appearance may be compared 
to that of a ripe walnut. Inside of the hard cuticle, there is a spongy 
bark, a quarter of an inch thick, of a pretty lake red, sparsely strewed 
with minute yellow points^ which bright color, a native poet has com- 
pared to the lips of beauty. The shell thus formed encloses a white 
pulp, divided into from five to seven parts of unequal size, like the 
natural divisions of an orange. The larger parts, or divisions, usu- 
ally half the number of the whole, contain each, a large bean-shaped 
seed, but the others dissolve away in the mouth with a most luscious 
sub-acid taste, resembling somewhat that of the granadilla of Peru. 
When informed that the ropes before us were of the celebrated Man- 
gustin, some set their teeth in it, as they would have done had it been 
an apple, and turned away in disgust; but a little instruction quickly 
turned all to it again, and all agreed that, though a most exquisitely 
delicious fruit, it was not equal to what they had fancied the man- 
gustin to be, and some ventured to say, that those who declared it to 
be without a rival, had never enjoyed that strawberry-and-cream-fla- 
vored lusciousness, which is peculiar to the Peruvian Chirimoya, as 
it grows in the valleys of Piura and lea, 

The wind was ahead, and the night was sultry, with rain, lightning 
and thunder. The next day was spent in beating against the wind, 
among numerous islands, until six o'clock, P. M., when we anchored 
in Batavia Roads, too late, however, to communicate with the shore. 



216 BATAVIA ROADS LANDING. 

but the following morning ended all our long cherished anticipations: 
— there were no letters for us. 

At this season of the year, the view from the anchorage has little 
that is attractive. The shore is low and wooded, sweeping round in 
an extensive half circle, and sea-ward there are numerous small isl- 
ands, which, in a degree, shelter the roadstead from a heavy swell, 
that, daring the N. W. monsoon, under different circumstances, would 
roll in upon the beach. There is neither tower nor fane to be seen; 
the octagon church alluded to by a recent voyager, having been taken 
down a quarter of a century ago, by the Governor Van Der Capellen, 
because Horseburg in his "East India Directory," names it as one of 
the land-marks by which to enter the harbor, and therefore, the Go- 
vernor General very shrewdly concluded that the English could not 
find their way to Batavia, if it were removed. A few red tile roofs 
and a low look-out house, on the end of the booms or canal, are the 
only indications, besides the fleet of shipping in the roads, of the vi- 
cinity of the capital of the Dutch empire in the East. The moun- 
tains of Java were constantly hid under masses of black clouds, and, 
during our sojourn, we only once or twice got a glimpse of them. 

I seized an early opportunity to visit the shore, and among my 
first remarks, was, that the boats of the vessels in port were manned 
by Malays, to protect their own men from the baleful effects of the 
climate; exposure to the sun and the miasms arising from the neigh- 
boring low-lands, having been found uniformly injurious, and often 
fatal, to new-comers at Batavia. We approached the shore under 
easy sail, listening to the frequently volunteered observations, of 
the Malay cockswain, who told us, the English were much better 
liked than the Dutch, because the latter, " made Malay-man pay plenty 
money;" but, he continued smiling exultingly, "Dutchman drink 
water, he die — Dutchman in sun, he die— when Malayu no kill him, 
he die — plenty Dutchman die in Padang." And after we had taken 
a closer view of the policy pursued in Java, we did not so much 
wonder at the bitterness of these observations. 

The mode of landing at Batavia is not common. The water 
in the roads is so shallow that ships lie about three miles from 
the shore; but in order to shorten the distance, in accordance 
with the legitimate system of Dutch logic, so clearly elucidated by 
Knickerbocker in his " History of New York," there are two booms, 
formed of wooden piles, extended seaward, for a mile, in a straight 
line from the shore, having a canal between them, at the entrance of 



VOYAGE ALO^G THE CANAL. 9.1T 

which, the sea breaks over a sand bar, with such violence, at times, 
during the north-west monsoon, that boats are frequently upset and 
the passengers are subjected to a narrow risk of becoming food for 
sharks and alligators, even if they escape drowning. Recently, how- 
ever, the course of the river Jacatra has been changed, and the last 
named animals find it more profitable to lounge in the purlieus of the 
new embouchement, leaving the canal an undisputed cruising ground 
to the sharks. This bar is often a serious inconvenience, because 
when one goes on shore, he is not certain when he can again return 
on boards merchant vessels have been three weeks Vv'ithout being 
able to get a " simpa" or lighter, out of the canal. When I found 
myself bounding lightly over the curling breaker, and speedily 
gliding up the canal before the wind, boats could enter, but could 
not, when loaded, go out, because they had both wind and sea to con- 
tend against, and such had been the case for three days. Here and 
there, along the booms, was to be s^en a Chinese man or woman, 
angling; and farther up the canal there was a party of wretched con- 
victs piling stone, destitute of all covering, except what their chains 
and fetters afforded. The booms at last terminated in the stibstan- 
tial brick walls of the canal, along which were lying several Dutch 
cutters, armed with brass guns and swivels, bearing all the appear- 
ance of being snug for winter quarters. Beyond them was a range 
of closely packed " simpas," a sort of burden boat of rude construc- 
tion, waiting a favorable moment to pass the bar: they have a great 
eye painted on either bow after the fashion of the Chinese, and their 
capacities marked in Kyons, the numbers running from five to 
fifteen.* Another sort of boat used on the canal, is called a 
" Myang," somewhat resembling the Venitian gondola. They all 
carry wide-spread square sails of matting, set on light spars of 
bamboo; but, to judge from their display of tatters, they are of a very 
fragile texture. 

After sailing a mile, we neared the left or eastern bank of the 
canal, where there is a military post and a fort. A Malay soldier 
armed with a bayonet, in a sky-blue uniform, but barefoot, carried 
arms as we passed. Two or three Dutch soldiers were lounging on 
the green, with pipes in their mouths, looking contented in a marsh 
under a half veiled sun. At this point, horses are furnished by the 
government to all men-of-war boats; a rope was attached to our 

* A Kyon is equal to 3000 caties, of a pound and a quarter each, or, 3,f50 
pounds. 



218 ENTRANCE TO THE CITY. 

bows, and a little horse, ridden by a half-naked Malay, towed or 
rather tracked us another mile to the landing. As we drew near 
this point we observed more people, and when in sight of the custom- 
house, which fronts the canal, we saw a number of carriages standing 
about, as well as some arriving and others going away. An inferior 
oflScer or porter of the customs was standing on the canal bank, to 
detect and prevent contraband. He was a barefooted Malay, dressed 
in a blue frock with yellow trimmings, and a handkerchief neatly 
tied about his head, and he wore on his breast a brass plate, bearing 
the title of his employment. We landed without question, and 
walked towards the town on a fine shady road, leading over a 
morass or low ground. 

We were frequently passed by equipages which rather excited 
smiles than admiration. A full sized phaeton, drawn by very small 
horses, or rather ponies, driven by a Malay, rolled in a frock of scar- 
let cotton, full of w4^f> spricrg and flowers; a basin-shaped basket, 
painted red, glazed and ornamented by gay stripes of gilt, turned 
o^i;^is head and secured under the chin, answering the purpose of 
a havihich, no doubt, as the valorous knight of La Mancha would 
have preferred to the helmet of Mambrino, completed the costume 
of th^ Javan Jehu, whose long whip was kept in constant use. Such 
was the general character of the passing vehicles; and where Dutch- 
men were passengers, a cloud of smoke from their cigars or chiroots, 
followed in the train. Indeed, every body smokes chiroots, both when 
abroad and in the house, where large brass ewers are commonly seen 
and used as spitoons; the presence of ladies in either case forming 
no check upon the practice: on the contrary, it is not uncommon 
for the footman to carry a lighted match of cocoanut husk behind the 
carriage, in which his master and mistress are seated, for the conve- 
nience of smoking tobacco. 

A pretty avenue, an eighth of a mile long, leads to the great gate 
which opens into th-e city; it is a white arch, surmounted by two 
large urns, having bronzed figures of Mercury and Minerva, stand- 
ing on either side, and, seen through the dark foliage, forms a pretty 
entrance. A large public building fronts the gate, and misleads the 
stranger to suppose he is entering a beautiful city; but he is speedily 
undeceived by a walk through the wretched streets of old Batavia, 
flanked by old houses, with high tiled roofs in the Dutch style. Yet 
many of the buildings are large and airy — those are generally occu- 
pied as counting-houses — but very many are miserable hovels, tenant- 
ed by natives and Chinese; the whole having a cheerless, and even 



OLD BATAVIA— JAVAN COSTUME — ^MALAYS. 219 

squalid appearance. The streets are Macadamized, and cross each 
other nearly at right angles, the principal ones having canals running 
through the centre, with carriage ways on either side. There is also 
a paved trottoir, but not in the best repair. The canals were full of 
muddy water, and alive with boats, loaded with merchandise, even 
at this season of the year, when business is dull. Along their mar- 
gins are sheds or roofs of tile, supported on posts, beneath wliich the 
carriages of the merchants are protected from rain or sunj for no one 
here ever walks, even the shortest distance^ or, if he do by chance, 
he is always careful to be sheltered from the rays of the sun. 

At every step of the way one meets coolies, bearing over their 
shoulders, suspended from either end of a bamboo, large baskets, 
containing fruit, fish, or poultry^ nothing is more pleasant to the 
eye, than one of these naked Javans, thus loaded with the "rambu- 
tan," or hairy fruit, which is of the bright color of strawberries, 
nearly as large as an egg, and covered with soft thick spines or hairs, 
whence it derives its name. It is very plenty and cheap, and a fa- 
vourite with the natives, but I found nothing in it to praise. In the 
same manner is carried about an establishment, called a " warong," 
perhaps more properly, restaurant ambulant; in one of the baskets is 
a small furnace over which is boiling a pot of coffee, and in the other 
is seen ready cooked rice, fish, &c. At any one of these warongs, 
a native makes an excellent meal of bread, fish, rice, curry and a 
cup of coffee, at an expense not exceeding two cents. 

The costume of the Javans of the lower classes, consists of a 
handkerchief, neatly tied about the head, a pair of tight drawers, 
reaching to the knee, and a '* sarong," or sash, of bright colored calico, 
worn over the shoulder, or around the hips, falling about the limbs like 
a petticoat. The Sarong is not unlike the Scotch Highlander's plaid, 
being a piece of a parti-colored cloth, six or eight feet long, and three or 
four wide, sewed together at the ends; forming, as some writers de- 
scribe it, a sack without a bottom. When exposed to rain, the bas- 
ket-hat already described is put on; but, in clear weather, is carried 
in the hand. Many wear a kris, a kind of sword, with a serpen- 
tine-form blade, in a straight wooden scabbard, though the fashion 
of wearing arms is not universal. 

The Malay is of a dark olive color, rather small in stature, high 
cheeks, pointed chin, and low forehead, with black eyes and hair; 
the last, usually worn in long locks, reposing on his shoulders, when 
not folded beneath his head-dress. The Javan is of lighter com- 
plexion, and is most admired, as the island poets sing, when of an 



220 MODE OF LIVING. 

orange or yellow color. The Chinese is of a sickly hue, and when 
at work, appears without other covering than his full drawers, or 
pantaloons; his head is shaved to the crown, and his hair plaited in 
a long tail, hanging nearly to the ground. Children of both sexes, 
and all complexions, go entirely naked, until six or eight years old. 
The women seen in the streets, are very plain, and wear their gowns, 
or petticoats, drawn tightly over the breasts. Let the imagination act 
upon the materials here given, adding a few males and females, young 
and old, bathing together, in the muddy waters of the canals, and 
the mind may catch a glimpse of the scenes presented in the streets 
of old Batavia. 

Soon after reaching the counting-house of Mr. F , we entered 

a phaeton, and were driven to his house, in the new city, or out of 
town, for I am at loss to say whether it is town or country. The 
dwellings of the merchants are in this new town, some of them six 
or eight miles from old Batavia, where they live as luxuriously as 
circumstances will allow. They retire from the desk about four 
o'clock P. M., take a half hour's drive, and get home to dress, and 
dine about seven, seldom quitting the table earlier than ten or eleven 
o'clock. Notwithstanding the insalubrious character of the climate, 
I am very sure, a similar course of indulgence at table could not be 
better endured in any other region for the same length of time. Some 
individuals have been living in this manner, for ten and even twenty 
years, enjojing most excellent health. When you speak of the subject, 
you are told, in an uncertain tone — "Yes, it is necessary to be cau- 
tious, and take care of yourself!" But you will find your adviser, 
perhaps, delighting in mulagatawny, curry, saddles of mutton, &c., 
with an accompaniment of light red wine; assuring you, that Sherry 
and Madeira are too heating for the climate; yet, these are compen- 
sated for in copious draughts of Hodgson's pale ale, during dinner, 
to cool the throat set on fire by highly condimented dishes, and after 
the wine has gone two or three rounds, a liquor coaster, well supplied 
with gin and brandy, the first being most in vogue, and coolers of 
water take its place; which, aided by the cigar, or chiroot, bind the 
guests to the social board, sometimes till a late hour. A cup of cof- 
fee is swallowed by every one the moment his eyes are open in the 
morning; and in the dry monsoon, it is usual to ride before breakfast, 
the hour of which is eight o'clock. The merchants then *go to 
town,' and, about twelve or one o'clock, take a lunch at the counting- 
house; and so follow on the routine of life. 

In a few minutes we had passed the boundary of the old city, re- 



CITY OF BATAVIA. 221 

marking, en passant, one street almost entirely occupied by Chinese, 
industriously plying some mechanic art. There is one section of the 
town €alled the China camp, distinguished from the rest by its more 
squaled, filthy appearance, and being peopled altogether by Chinese 
and their descendants, where may be seen quaintly painted paper 
lanterns hanging at the doors, naked children flourishing in the mud, 
and hair-plaiting and all the weighty offices of the toilet going for- 
ward in the open air. We crossed a canal, or river, and rode swiftly 
over a fine level road, struck at every step of our progress by the 
beauty and luxuriance of vegetation; every where the eye encoun- 
tered dwellings, wearing a mingled aspect of cottage and of palacej 
the neat walks, the flowers, the clean white exterior, seen through 
rich ereen foliage, and the air of retired comfort of the first, and the 
columns of the broad veranda, the carriage-way sweeping up through 
an avenue to the door, the height and extent of the building and out- 
offices, in keeping with the latter. Some few houses, of an inferior 
order, open directly upon the street? but, in general, they stand re- 
tired from the high-way. You see the broad canal, and its stream 
of muddy water; canoes, laden with grass, tracked along by men on 
the banks; women and children bathing, and performing other offices 
for themselves; numerous pedestrians beneath the shade of the long 
line of trees on the canal; Malays and Javans in sarongs, carrying 
fruit or fish; the Chinaman, with braided hair, drawn so tightly back, 
as if to keep his eyes open, in tidy white frock, over blue pantaloons, 
moves along, carelessly twirling a little tom-tom, to call attention 
to the pack of goods following him on the shoulders of a Javan, or 
Malay, which he is hawking about; novv^ and then an Arab, turbanded 
with a shawl from the vale of Cashmere, in flowing juma of blue 
cloth, over a white vesture, with head erect, proudly steps his san- 
dalled feet upon the path, followed by a slave, bearing his umbrella, 
his whole physiognomy crying, 

*' OdI profanum vulg-us et arceo." 

At this hour, numerous and stylish equipages are flying in every di- 
rection; in short, all you see speaks of the East, and, finding the 
same succession of mansions, rich vegetation, and peopling, to ex- 
tend four or five miles, we readily believe those who tell us that Ba- 
tavia of the present day rivals Calcutta, of which we hear so much. 
But this is all on one side of the canal; the other presents a road 
resembling a newly ploughed field, over which ih^ profanum vulgus 



222 WATERLOO SqUARE HALL OF SCIENCE. 

drive their truck-wheeled carts, drawn by water buffaloes, without 
risking an encounter with the flaunting liveries of some Dutch nawab. 

Failing at once into the routine, we drove through several streets 
of the new city, which appears to be increasing in all directions, and 
came upon a large square, one side of which is taken up bj a pile of 
buildings, occupied bj the public offiees of the colonial government, 
and the other bj the cantonments of the officers, the soldiers' bar- 
racks being in the rear. In its centre stands a column, surmounted 
by a lion, which was erected in commemoration of the field of Wa- 
terloo, and hence the name, Waterloo Place, or Square. Close to 
the column, on the green sward, is a music stand, for the accommo- 
dation of a fine military band that plays on Sunday and Thursday 
afternoons, when the Square is the resort of all the fashionable world 
ofBatavia. Here we occasionally saw numerous equipages bearing 
fair ladies to listen to the music, the while their lords lolled back to 
regale them with the smoke of their chiroots; buggies, phaetons, and 
barouches and four, at intervals swept through the square, and gay 
equestrians caracoUed along, for a few minutes, and then, with the 
crowd of pedestrian saiis culottes, assembled again at the music 
stand, as the band began some fine composition of the best masters. 
To judge from these assemblages, Batavia boasts very few beauties 
among her fair. In a half hour, the band, and the guard, in green 
frock coats and long yellow shoulder-belts, marched off, and the 
crowd of vehicles vvheeled away in different directions, the coachmen 
cracking their whips in full chorus. 

Our road led us round the ''King's Plain," an extensive level 
field, surrounded by pretty shade-trees. As it was still early, we 
passed the Hex Bataviaash Genootschap, or Hall of Science, 
where there is a collection of specimens of natural history, at pre- 
sent, I was assured, not worth visiting. Under the same roof is the 
Harmonie, a large hall, resorted to in the evening to play billiards, 
to talk, and, occasionally, to attend an auction-sale. In its vicinity 
are the only two hotels in the place, both miserably kept, and by no 
means the most eligible places of sojourn for chaste gentlemen. 

Of the Dutch society I saw nothing, but I was assured that it is 
pretty extensive and very good. Of the foreign society I saw much, 
and most of us will long remember the kind attentions extended to 
us while we remained. 

The city of Batavia covers a large space, but the houses are far 
apart, and their grounds extensive^ and one is surprised at the com- 



POPULATION OF BATAVIA. 223 

paratively small number of its inhabitants. The population in 1824, 
exclusive of the military force, consisting of fifteen thousand men, 
seven thousand of vi^hom are Europeans, was only fifty-three thou- 
sand, eight hundred and sixty -one, viz: — 

Europeans and their descendants, - . - - 3,025 

Natives, 23,108 

Chinese, 14,708 

Arabs, -.- 601 

Slaves, (orig-inally from Bali, Sumatra, and Maccasar,) 12,419 

Total, - - - . 53,861* 

In 1812, the number of inhabitants is thus stated, viz: — 





Natives. 


Europeans. 


Population of Batavia, - 


47,083 ^ 


371 


*' " Environs of do. 


- 218,777 


1,928 



Total, - - 265,860 2,299t 



A census is taken yearly, but I applied for that of 1835 in vain. 
A friend asked it from a relation, who is a Resident; but he replied, 
that his oath of office did not permit him to impart any information 
from the archives without an order from the Governor General. 

* M'Culloch's Commercial Dictionary, Lond. 1835. 

f The History of Java, by Thomas Stamford Raffles, 2 vols, quarto, London^ 
1817. 



224 BATAVIA IN THE RAINY SEASON. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



SKETCHES IN JAVA. 

February i 1836. 

Many regrets were expressed by our friends on shore, at different 
times, that our visit to Java was in the rainy monsoon, as we should 
leave it with very unfavorable, and at the same time, unjust impressions, 
and estimate its beauties too low. *' Indeed," they said, ** to see any 
thing of the country, or to have an idea of what Java really is, you 
should visit Buitenzorg." In truth, there is not much to say in be- 
half of a city, literally flooded by the rains, as Batavia was during 
our sojourn. In most of the streets of the old town, the water was 
a foot deep, and in some of them it rose to the hubs of the carriage 
wheels. Houses and stores were afloat, yet the Chinese were seen 
in their shops, plying their vocations as tailors, tinkers, and shoema- 
kers, half leg deep, while their naked children enjoyed fine sport, 
sailing tiny boats about the room or before the door, as careless of 
the circumstance as if it had been a thing of course. In front of 
some houses were canoes, used to traverse the flooded streets. After 
seeing this, who will be surprised at the very extraordinary sickness 
and mortality of Batavia, exposed as the inhabitants must be to the 
morbiferous miasms, generated by a burning sun on the oozy streets, 
after the rainy season has passed away? 

From the year 1730, till the month of August, 1752, a period of 
twenty-two years and eight months, the burials, according to the oflB.- 
cial documents printed in the appendix of Raffles' History of Java, 
was 1,119,375, about 4115 per month. Since that time, however, 
things have improved, and a Dutch physician of eminence assured 
me that the present mortality is very little greater than that of any 
country of Europe. 

The number of Europeans who died at Batavia, from January 1st, 
1831, until December 31st, 1835, was 2,460, or an annual average 



MORTALITY OLIMATE. 225 

of 492. Of these, 166 were transient (or foreigners) or an average 
of 33^; so that a number greater than the whole European population 
(2,299 in the year 1812,) died in the period of five years! 

Among other improvements at Batavia, there is a public hospital 
for the reception of foreigners and others, said to be superior to any 
establishment of the kind in India, and not inferior to many in the 
world, but I regret that circumstances prevented me from visiting it. 

To carry off the torrents, which, in the rainy season, pour down, 
upon the coast from the high land of the interior, numerous canals 
are necessary, and a great many were opened; but it was supposed, 
they were more than sufficient in number, and were prejudicial to the 
salubrity of the climate: after intellect was, on its march and had 
learned to fly in many christian countries, it began an accelerated 
crawl among the Batavia Dutch^ and in their eagerness to improve, 
they filled up many of the canals, without leaving enough to drain the 
country and keep the city free. Business was thereby almost brought 
to a stand, much property destroyed, and a popular commotion was 
dreaded on these accounts. The canals will be again opened, in all 
probability 5 for canals there must be wherever there are Dutchmen: 
they are as necessary to their existence as pipes and Scheidam. Is 
it not remarkable, that the Dutch, like the English, Spaniards and 
Portuguese, should have settled their colonies in countries whose na- 
tural features are similar to their own? 

The weather at Batavia is, with little exception, nearly the same 
every year; the months of January, February, and March, are gene- 
rally wet, the rainy season beginning about the middle of December, 
and continuing, with more or less violence, until the end of March, 
the wind commonly prevailing from west or north-west. During 
April and May, the winds are variable, the weather unsettled, with 
frequent lightning and thunder. In the month of June the dry sea- 
son begins, and frequently lasts till November, with eastward or 
south-eastwardly winds. In 1835, not a single drop of rain fell 
during nearly five months, from the beginning of May, until the end 
of October. But generally during this season, there is a shower from 
time to time, till the month of November, when the weather begins 
to change, and towards the end of December, the rainy season sets in 
again in full force. 

The average range of the thermometer for the last five years, was, 
at six o'clock, A. M. 74° F.; at meridian, 88°; at six o'clock, P. M. 
76°. The highest range was 96°, and the lowest 72°. 

So often were we urged to visit Buitenz.org, that we made up a 
29 



226 OLD BATAVIA AT NIGHT. 

party and determined to set out the first fair day; but rain it would, 
and we were disappointed day after day, and I returned on board in 
despair. Late one afternoon, I was notified, that on the following 
morning at daylight, rain or shine, the party would set oiF; I there- 
fore made my preparations and hastened to the shore. The evening 
was the clearest that had occurred for many days, and augured well 
for the morrow. 

When I landed the sun had already set; not a leaf stirred; there was 
only here and there a small cloud to be seen in the sky, and presently 
the stars appeared one by one, until the firmament was bespangled. 
I walked along the quiet streets; here and there twinkled a candle 
in the domicil of a Chinese, and before some of the miserable habi- 
tations, sat the inhabitants conversing in low tones, their words flow- 
ing as slowly and gently as the eddying wreaths of smoke from their 
own chiroots. The general gravity of the scene, was indeed occa- 
sionally broken, by the mirthful laugh of a child, throwing its naked 
form playfully into the arms of its father. As I walked on, the still- 
ness became greater, and there was a dreariness on the time-worn fea- 
tures of all around, seen beneath the soft light of the stars, not in the 
least lessened by the occasional and melancholy cry of the ge-ko. I 
felt glad to reach Tjauley's door; and, passing by two or three coops 
of poultry into the office of our Chinese serviteur, roused him from 
his desk, where he sat, almost buried in accounts, surrounded by 
piles of fruit and bunches of green plantains. Tjauley raised his 
spectacles, looked at me, got up from his seat, and, quietly trimming 
the solitary lamp that glimmered its rays over the large apartment, 
said, *' You be come late shore — no, sir?" with a smile which betrayed 
what Time had been doing in his mouth, 

" Yes; will you get me a carriage?" 

" You pay first?" replied the old man. The money was put into 
his hand. He turned away and said something in Chinese, rather 
above his ordinary tone, and the next moment his son and aid passed 
into the street. I waited some minutes, and in the mean time Tjau- 
ley began to smoke a cigar. I grew impatient and moved towards 
the door. " Sit down, sir, — him come in a little." I obeyed, and at- 
tempted to converse, but the old man was not talkative. At the end 
of a half hour the carriage stopped at the door, and the town clock 
struck seven faster than I could count; — the only active spirit in the 
town is Time, and he strikes fast and hard. 

I was not long in taking my seat; crack, crack went the whip, and 
we rattled through the street, every where silent till we reached the 



POSTING IN JAVAo 227 

China camp, where things were more alive. The music of the game • 
Ian and the voices of dancing girls broke upon the ear. The scene 
grew -animated as we advanced. The restaurans ambidans were 
in motion, lighted by lamps, and here and there a way-farer was 
regaling himself with a supper from the baskets of a warong, halted 
for the sake of his custom. So soon as we had cleared the camp, 
the view had something fairy-like in its character. The trees 
along the canal were partially lighted from lamps, flickering in ca- 
noes and boats, swimming silently on the current. Now and then 
there was a gleam cast upon the water afar off, by flambeaux seen 
passing rapidly through the trees, and the mansions every where were 
illuminated by many lamps of clear cocoanut oil, burning steadily in 
shades of transparent glass, suspended from the ceiling of the veran- 
das, and in the apartments wliich were usually open wide for the be- 
nefit of every breeze. Carriages passed ever and anon at a rapid 
rate, lighted by torches, made of bundles of the long stems of palm 
leaves, bound together like fascines, having one end in a bright flame^ 
one is borne by each of the two footmen in red frocks behind each 
carriage, producing a fine effect,' — this is truly eastern magnificence. 

I alighted in due time at Fancy Farm. The next day I was on 
foot at dawn, and seating myself in a buggy with our friend and 
cicerone for the journey, drove to our Consul's, where we found the 
rest of our party awaiting us. An antiquated coach that had been 
standing in the yard for several days, was already geared to four 
small poniesj the coachman was on the box; we speedily assumed 
our places, and off we went with a cracking of whip that any Jehu 
would have been delighted to hear. Besides the party of four sitting 
in the coach, the major's servant sat at my feet with a little bag of 
copper doits, to pay the driver and two runners, or postillions at 
each post house, according to custom. At starting, the two postil- 
lions, who were clad simply in a handkerchief tied about the head 
and a pair of tight drawers, each armed with a common cart-whip, 
ran one on either side of the horses and belabored them with blows 
and abuse, until the animals were at full speed; then they mounted 
behind, where they continued cracking their whips in a sort of chime 
with that of the driver, who, with vigorous arm, cracked right and 
left. 

Without witnessing the fact, one would scarcely believe, that the 
little ponies could hurry such a load after them at the speed we tra- 
velled. They kept at full run to the first post, a distance of eight 



228 ROAD TO BUITENZORG. 

pauls.* The posts are conveniently arranged. A high shed covers 
the road, and the carriage is driven under it, vv^here the horses are 
very quickly changed, as well as the runners, the same driver keep- 
ing the box all the way through. The posts are about five pauls 
apart, and, notwithstanding the heavy rains, the roads are in excel- 
lent condition. But a strong contrast exists between the post roads, 
exclusively travelled by the vehicles of the gentry and by pedes- 
trians, and the roads running side by side, changing from right to 
left, appropriated to the buffalo carts of the natives. The Dutch 
force the natives to construct fine roads all over the island, and then 
compel them to toil over ways that are comparable to ploughed, fields. 
How can people prosper whose policy it is to keep up such painful 
distinctions? Where is the encouragement to force the soil to pro- 
duce its fruits, when, from the difficulty of getting them to market, 
the profits are inadequate to the labor and loss of time? But we 
shall see more of the stubborn, blind, brutal tyranny of the Batavia 
Dutch before we conclude. 

Thus far our route lay over a level country, beautified by fine man- 
sions, similarly situated to those already noticed, but growing * few 
and far between,' as our distance from the city increased. The 
morning was pleasant, and at that early hour, many Malays and 
Javans were seen trudging towards the city with loads of fruit, vege- 
tables and poultry, all suspended from the ends of a bamboo, nicely 
balanced over the shoulder. Chickens and capons are tied by the 
legs, but geese, turkeys and peacocks are placed in separate mats of 
green cocoanut leaves, which snugly envelop the body and wings, 
giving them a comfortable support. Canoes loaded with fresh-cut grass 
floated on the canal towards the city. 

The horses were already in harness when we reached the post, 
and little more was required than to hitch the traces, which were of 
coir rope; those of the leaders were long, and instead of being at- 
tached to the pole or tongue of the carriage, were secured to the 
same swingle-tree with the others. 

All being ready, the chiming of whips with a chorus of Malay vo- 
ciferation commenced, and the restiff little horses began dancing 
and prancing, first to right and then to the left, until, to escape the 
shower of blows poured from either side to which they inclined, they 
fairly rushed forward at the top of their speed, and the runners 
leaped up behind to continue the music of their whips. In a few 

* A paul is 1600 yards. 



BELLE VUE. 229 

minutes we were passing fields of indigo and rice; and we saw here 
and there some few pepper vines climbing over forest trees. As far 
as eye could reach, vegetation was beautifully green, but the view of 
the mountains, now hid by heavy clouds, was wanting to complete 
the scenery. 

The country now became more elevated, and a range of low hills 
was pointed out as the heights of Cornelis, memorable for the hard 
fought battle which ended in placing Java in the hands of the British; 
and every philanthropist, as well as every Englisliman, must regret 
that a conquest dearly won in the field, should have been cheaply 
given up in the cabinet. The road from this point has a gradual 
ascent to Buitenzorg, which is elevated eight hundred or a thousand 
feet above the sea, and as we approached it, every field was under 
cultivation; a canal or river was almost constantly in sight; and the 
road was bordered by green hedges. 

The last post is situated at the top of a hill, at the foot of which 
runs a river, brawling towards the sea, over which is thrown a 
wooden bridge, and a long hill rises on the opposite side. After the 
usual flogging and vociferation, the restiiF little ponies ran down the 
first mentioned hill and across the bridge at full speed, our servant 
casting a florin, for toll, to a boy, who, with outstretched hand, 
bawled something in Malay; but we continued on amidst cracking 
and lashing of whips, and the shouts of the runners, urging the 
spirited little nags up hill, for they were apprehensive that the 
beasts would not, going at a moderate pace, be equal to the task. In a 
few minutes we came in sight of the palace gate, which seemingly 
terminates the road; but at that point it turns short to the right, and 
along it we sped to the hotel, called ' Belle Vue,' where we arrived 
in three hours and twenty minutes, a distance of thirty-nine pauls, — 
rather more than thirty-five miles — from Batavia. We encountered 
one heavy shower on the way, and a second was about commencino-. 

In the garden of the hotel is an elevated summer-house, reared 
on the verge of a hill, where we hastened to behold one of the finest 
landscape views in Java. It presents a deep valley below, luxuriant 
in green of various shades; a fine road descending into it from the 
left; in front, a mountain eight thousand feet high, the summit of 
which was now hid under heavy clouds, pouring out a fast approach- 
ing shower, and to the right, a canal with a rushing stream of yellow 
water, wherein several females were bathing. The road to the left, 
was animated by Malays and Chinese, in their peculiar costumes, 
passing to and fro, the former bending under loads of fruit, &c.. 



230 THE GARDEN UPAS. 

while the latter, full of calculation, moved steadily along under um- 
brellas. 

When we had taken a glance of this view, we returned to the 
hotel, and, after despatching an excellent breakfast, we rode to the 
Garden, an extensive and prettily cultivated ground about the pa- 
lace, which was shaken down by an earthquake, on the tenth of Oc- 
tober, 1834, and is now rebuilding. As the morning was rainy, our 
visit was hasty, and our examinations were often cut short by show- 
ers. We first visited an enclosure appropriated to the cultivation 
of the cochineal plant [Cactus coccinelifer) which was introduced from 
Mexico, and promises well. The cactus plants were ranged in rows, 
some of which were sheltered by roofs of palm leaves. On some 
of them were many of the purple insects, enclosed in a delicate 
white web, resembling frost or mould. 

We were fortunate in meeting Mons. H. Diard, the government 
naturalist, just as he was setting off* for Batavia. He recognised the 
Major, and, alighting from his lumbering old coach and four, came 
without his hat to greet him. He led us into an old, ruinous man- 
sion, bearing many signs of the earthquake, and which seemed now 
deserted to Time, and the white ants, that were busily making their 

covered ways over several parts of the floor. Mons. D showed us 

a collection of birds, among which was a pretty green pigeon, and 
then led us to the back veranda, overlooking a deep valley, the 
sides of which were terraced and planted with rice, and a serpen- 
tine river, whose current was now swollen by the rains, rushed 
through its whole length. This he assured us is the most beau- 
tiful landscape on the island of Java. He assured me, that the cele- 
brated Upas plant, [Jintiaris toxicaria,) grows only in the eastern part 
of the island, and that he was expecting hourly to receive specimens 
of it. An account of the Bohun Upas, or poison wood of Java, 
upas being the generic term in the language for poison, and applied 
to all plants possessing venomous qualities, may be found in Raffle's 
History of Java. 

After taking leave of the naturalist, I was told, that a Malay ser- 
vant observing Mons. D to be curious in examining insects, 

plants, birds, &c., caught a swallow, and after very nicely securing 
a cock's feather to its tail, set it again at liberty. The swallow con- 
tinued its flights about the house, twittering away as gaily as ever, 
and at length attracted the attention of the worthy naturalist. He 
endeavoured to catch it, but his very eagerness in this case balked 
him. He offered rewards to any one who would place the strange 



CULTIVATION OF THE TEA PLANT. 231 

bird in his hands, but no one would or could succeed, until in his 
anxiety, he cried, " A hundred dollars to any one who will bring me 
that s\A^llow." Just as he was stepping into his coach, to depart for 
a distant part of the island, the tricky Malay brought forward the 

bird, but declined the reward, and Mons. D drove off with the 

prize, and was not long in discovering the deception that had been 
practised on him. 

On our return, we passed a large herd of spotted deer, and visit- 
ed the enclosure allotted to the tea-plantj then drove through a long 
street called the China camp, intending to return through the native 
village of Buitenzorg; but the horses, in spite of the hearty blows 
and curses of the driver and runners, would not proceed, so we 
were obliged to return to the hotel. It rained during the rest of the 
day, and we were thereby confined to the house. 

Mr. Jacobson, the government tea-taster, and planter, had arrived 
at the hotel at the same time with ourselves, and I obtained from him the 
following interesting particulars relative to '' China's fragrant herb." 

The plant was introduced into Java from Japan, in 1826^ and in 
1828, under the care of my informant, yielded specimens of black 
tea, but of an inferior quality. In 1830, plants were brought from 
China, and in 1833, their mode of manufacturing tea, was ascertained 
at the expense of two or three visits to China, and the exercise of a 
good deal of cunning observation,* for direct questions were always 
answered in a manner to mislead and deceive the inquirer. 

Although all the varieties and qualities of tea may be prepared 
from the same plant, there are two cultivated^ one yielding the green 
and the other the black teas. The shrub bears a pretty white fra- 
grant blossom, and affords three or four pluckings of leaves in the 
course of the year; but the nature of the soil, and the situation in 
which they grow, produce an inexplicable effect upon the quality of 
the teas made from them. The leaves, when of a proper age, are 
plucked one by one by gatherers, who receive no other pay than in 
the remission of certain land rents; and they are then placed in large 
shallow pans of tin, over a charcoal fire, where they are constantly 
turned with the hand, the sort and quality of the tea, depending 
upon the length of time of manipulation. The best qualities of 
green tea are longest over the fire, and therefore, are afforded at a 
high price, while the black teas, manufactured at less expense of time 
and fuel, are cheapest. 

In March, 1835, 4,294 pounds of the several varieties of tea, put 
up in the Chinese style, were shipped for Holland, where the tea- 



232 MISSIONARIES'— DUTCH POLICY. 

tasters and judges declared them to be equal to any from the Celes- 
tial Empire^ but they were not told how many thousand p'lculs of cof- 
fee these pounds of tea cost, nor how many poor Javans had been 
despoiled of their rice crops to gratify the experimenting spirit of 
Van Den Bosch. 

We found our sleeping rooms pleasant. The beds were supplied 
with an additional hard bolster or pillow, whereon to rest the lower 
limbs, which has obtained the somewhat equivocal name of ** Dutch 
wife." On the following morning several missionaries arrived from 
Batavia; Mr. Medhurst of the British mission, Messrs. Hanson and 
Lockwood of the American mission in China, and Mr. Arms of the 
American mission at Singapore, with two others residing at Batavia.* 
They had come to Buitenzorg to prefer a petition, asking countenance 
of the government, to aid them in their great purpose of diffusing 
christian and general knowledge among the people. Though the go- 
vernor treated them politely, and very diplomatically invited them 
to dine, he turned them off with a very indefinite or no answer at all. 

To their shame be it spoken, the Dutch do not think it consonant 
with the system of policy adopted in Batavia to encourage the diffu- 
sion of knowledge, or the conversion of misbelievers to the belief of 
christian doctrine. They dread, and no doubt with reason, that such 
a change might be followed by their expulsion from the island, or at 
least by a loss of their dear monopolies; but the time will come and 
dear will be the reckoning day thereof. With Christianity and the 
worldly information which accompanies it wherever it finds its way, 
the Javans and Malays would be too strong for their oppressors; and 
in a short time, they would be hurled in blood from the high places 
they now hold in the island. And even without these advantages, the 
people are against them, and ripe for revolt. All they want is a lead- 
er, which they might find either in Dipo Negoro, the hero of the war 
of 1825, were he to escape from his prison in the Moluccas, or in 
Lallabassa, now shut up in Bencoolen. The Dutch army, consisting 
of about two thousand Germans, as many Dutch and three thousand 
Belgians, besides native troops, is discontented. The Germans dis- 
like the treatment they receive, the Dutch are miserably paid, and 
the Belgians complain that their good conduct is overlooked, and then 
they have to contend with stubborn Dutch prejudices against them, 
which have grown out of the late war in Belgium. This army is dis- 

• The American Missionaries very khidly performed the church service, and 
preached on board of the Peacock on the Sundays of her sojourn in the Roads. 



A JAVAJSJ PRIMCE GAMELAN. 233 

tributecl in small bodies over Java and Sumatra and might be cut up 
in detail. But the Dutch think themselves secure. They have always 
been-opposed to strangers obtaining any knowledge of the island; there- 
fore no one is permitted even to visit Buitenzorg without first obtain- 
ing a passport, for which a small fee is exacted. Then the passport 
states on its face it is good thus far, and no farther. So soon as tra- 
vellers arrive at the hotel and their names are recorded, the register 
with their passports are at once sent to the palace. In our case they 
were unnecessary, because the governor had accorded to us free post 
horses. 

The Major procured for us an invitation from a Javan Prince, 
Wiera Watta, who is Adipatti or native Resident of the district of 
Buitenzorg, to visit him and hear the "gamelan," or band of Javan 
music. At twelve o'clock, we descended into the valley below Belle 
Vue, wherein is built the native village; a sort of vicinage of bam- 
boo houses, each one being so completely hidden in grottos of trees, 
that at a short distance it rather resembles a luxuriant forest than a 
town. The house of Wiera Watta is larger than any other in the 
neighborhood, and is enclosed by a neat fence of split bamboo. We 
were escorted across the open enclosure by umbrella bearers, to pro- 
tect us from the shower, then falling, and at the entrance of an open 
court, Wiera Watta himself received us very politely, and led us to 
seats through a covered passage between the two wings of his dwel- 
ling. At the opposite end of the passage to that where we were, sat 
two or three servants on the floor, with their knees drawn up to the 
chin; and the gamelan was arrayed under shelter of a roof, near the 
entrance of the court we had just crossed. The musicians were 
playing when we passed them. 

There are several kinds of gamelan used by the Javans. That be- 
fore us was the Gamelan Salindro, which consists of several instru- 
ments, resembling the harmonicon or ancient stocatta, termed "gam- 
bang." The " gambang gansa " is a harmonicon having eighteen 
wooden keys, arranged in a sort of trough or boat, which yield very 
pleasant tones when struck with the proper sticks. The ''gam- 
bang kayu " has nineteen metal keys; there were three other similar 
instruments of smaller size, each having from five to seven metal 
keys; they are named saron, demong, and selantam. A bed of ten 
small gongs called a bonang; a large gong placed horizontally, two 
large ones suspended from a wooden frame, and a long narrow drum 
formed the bass, while the lead was given by the rebab, a sort of two- 
stringed violin. This instrument is held \evy much after the man- 
30 



234 MUSIC— KRISES. 

ner of the violoncello, and as the player was seated on the ground, 
his left hand was elevated to press the strings while the right exer- 
cised the bow. The music was pleasing, and rather soothing in its 
tones. The musicians were all seated a la Turque^ and were gene- 
rally patriarchal in their appearance; the leader particularly so, when 
he turned his withered face towards heaven and accompanied the 
notes of the rebab in a high and pathetic tone. 

The gamelan is preserved as an heir-loom in the family of a Javan 
prince, passed down from generation to generation: the one before us, 
had long been the amusement of Wiera Watta's ancestors; and in 
his father's time, there were dancing girls, also a part of it, who per- 
formed for the entertainment of the guests. 

The gongs of Java are celebrated for their tone, and in many parts 
of the East are prized before those of China. 

Wiera Watta is of small stature, and wears the semblance of se- 
venty years. His face is a benevolent one, but from the loss of teeth, 
the cheeks have fallen in, and the chin projects. He wore a handker- 
chief on his head; a dark cloth jacket, the collar and cufts of which 
were covered with broad gold lace; a white vest; a neckcloth, or cra- 
vat, after the fashion of fifty years ago, and a sarong hanging about 
the lower limbs. We were seated at a small table, on which were 
placed a variety of confections and fruits — mangustins, durians, du- 
kus, and three sorts of rambutau. Coffee was first served, and after 
the fruit, a glass of wine, of which, however, the prince did not par- 
take. 

When the repast was over, the Adipatti brought forward several 
krises of exquisite workmanship. The hilts were of hard wood, 
and the scabbards, the making of which is a separate trade, of 
wrought gold set with diamonds and precious stones. The blades 
were redolent of musk, of dark color, and damasked so as to resem- 
ble the grain of wood, by the admixture of a metal found on the 
islands of Biliton and Celebes. The kris blade is often envenomed 
with a poison prepared from the Upas and other plants; I was 
assured, while in Batavia, there is no plant on the island which is not 
eaten by some one of the lower classes of animals. The price of a kris 
blade, newly manufactured, varies from half a rupee (20 cents) to fifty 
dollars; and if its descent can be traced for three or four generations, 
is frequently prized at ten times that sum. But of all the articles of 
Javan workmanship, I most admired a set of chessmen, one half of 
virgin gold, the other of pure silver, wrought most beautifully in 
ftlligree. 



ISLAND OF JAVA. 235 

In an hour we took leave of Wiera Watta and returned to the 
hotel, wliere we were detained all the afternoon by heavy rain. The 
next morning between six and seven o'clock, v/e set off for Batavia, 
much gratified by our visit, and invigorated by the bracing and 
elastic air of the hills. Our return journey was as rapid as our 
coming, and characterised by the same sort of vociferation and whip 
accompaniments. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



SKETCHES IN JAVA. 



February., 1836, 

The island of Java— called by the natives Tdna, (the land) Jawa 
orMisa (the island) — extends between the meridians of 105° 1 \\ and 
114° 33' of longitude east of Greenwich; and between the parallels 
of 5° 52' and 8° 46' of south latitude. It is separated by the straits 
of Sunda, a few miles in breadth, from the island of Sumatra, which 
stretches away to the northward and westward for more than a thou- 
sand miles. It is of a rectangular form, and has numerous small 
islands on its northern coast. Its extreme length from east to west 
is 666 miles, and its breadth varies from 135 to 56 miles; its superfi- 
cies is estimated at 50,000 square miles. It is mountainous, volcanic 
and well -watered. *' The whole country, as seen from mountains of 
considerable elevation, appears a rich, diversified and well watered 
garden, animated with villages, interspersed with the most luxuriant 
fields and covered with the freshest verdure." 

The population is estimated at 6,000,000, or more than one hun- 
dred to the square mile. 

The established religion is that of Mohammed, the earliest notice 
of which in Javan annals is A. D. 1250. This religion was estab- 
lished in 1475, previous to which period the Hindoo faith was alone 
acknowledged. In 1511. the Portuguese found a Hindoo king at 



336 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF JAVA, 

Bantam; but, with inconsiderable exceptions, the whole island was 
converted during the sixteenth century by the priests of Islamism, 
under the protection of the then declining power of the caliphs. A 
few at Bantam still adhere to the worship of the lingu; and nume- 
rous temples and pieces of Hindoo sculpture, generally in ruin, are 
to be met with in almost every part of the island. 

Soon after doubling the cape of Good Hope, Alfonso de Albu- 
querque visited Sumatra, in 1510, and the following year he sent An- 
tonio de Abrew to Java and the Moluccas. The Portuguese were 
followed by the Dutch, and in 1595, Hautman sailed direct for Ban- 
tam with a fleet, and obtained permission to build a factory there, 
v\^hich was the first settlement formed by the Dutch in the East In- 
dies. Following the example of the Dutch, the English East India 
Company, immediately after its incorporation by Queen Elizabeth in 
1600, sent out Captain Lancaster with four vessels. He sailed first 
to Acheen, and thence to Bantam, where he established a factory, 
the first British possession in India. 

The first Dutch Governor-General, Bolt, arrived at Bantam, in 
1610, and, finding the situation of his countrymen in that province 
not favorable to the establishment of a permanent settlement, removed 
to Jakatra. On the 4th of March, 1621, the name of Batavia was 
conferred upon the new establishment, which, from that period, be- 
came the capital of the Dutch East Indian empire. 

In 1683, the English withdrew from Bantam. 

In 1811, Holland becoming a province of France, the French flag 
was hoisted at Batavia; and on the 11th of September, of the same 
year, the British government was declared supreme on Java, by a 
proclamation signed by the Earl of Minto, then Governor-General 
of Bengal. On the 17th of the same month, a capitulation was en- 
tered into, which placed all the dependencies in the hands of Great 
Britain. On the 13th of August, 1814, a bargain was made by Vis- 
count Castlereagh, on the part of his Britannic majesty, restoring 
to the Dutch the whole of their former possessions in the eastern isl- 
ands; and on the 19th of August, 1816, the flag of the Netherlands 
again floated at Batavia. 

For this restoration the English in India never cease to regret, and 
deprecate the policy which led to it, whenever the subject is men- 
tioned; but in those days, kingdoms and provinces changed hands 
with as little ceremony as estates under the hammer of the auc- 
tioneer. 

The administration of the colonial government is confided to the 



GOVERNMENT OF JAVA. 237 

Governor-General, or Lieutenant-governor, with their secretaries and 
deputies, and four counsellors appointed by the king. But the Gover- 
nor-General, it may be said, is absolute; for when the council does not 
agree to his propositions, he is at liberty to assume the responsibility 
and put them in execution. The officers of the administration rarely 
meet together for the transaction of public business, being required 
only to send their written votes, sometimes accompanied by argu- 
ments, from their several homes, wdien the Governor thinks proper 
to submit any measure to their consideration. 

The detail is managed by officers termed Residents, one being at 
the head of each of the departments, called residencies, into which 
the island is divided. 

While in the hands of the English, many changes and improve- 
ments were made in the ancient system of government; and when 
they restored the island, in 1816, it was in a comparatively flourish- 
ing condition; but owing to various circumstances, as increased com- 
petition in Indian commerce after the general peace, and the condi- 
tion in which the continued wars had left agricultural pursuits, Hol- 
land received little advantage from possessing Java up to 1824, when 
the warlike attempts of the Javans, headed by Dipo Negoro, to expel 
the Dutch, formed a weighty obstacle to profitable commercial en- 
terprise:* nor was tranquillity restored until 1830, when the Gover- 
nor-General tampered with the prosperity of the island by making a 
series of unsuccessful and expensive agricultural experiments. 

Van den Bosch, the Governor-General, fancied that tea could be 
cultivated with great profit; and in 1831, established a plantation at 
Bandong, where he spared no expense which was likely in his opinion 
to ensure success, but the shrubs perished one after the other. Ano- 
ther plantation was begun at Krawang, the crop from which, for 
1833, was to be, by his estimate, 75,000 lbs.; but it only produced 
2,000 lbs., and he abandoned farther trials on an extensive scale. To 
make room for the tea plants in this plantation, he cut down more 
than 2,000,000 coffee trees, which reduced the coffee crop at least 
5000 piculs. 

About the same time he made an attempt to grow silk, but was 
equally unfortunate. 

Indigo also attracted his attention. Its cultivation was tried and 
abandoned by Governor Dandels; and afterwards re-established by 

* Memoires sur la guere de I'ile de Java de 1825, a 1830, par le Major F, V. A, 
De Stuers— Folio a Leyde, 1833. 



238 AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENTS. 

Petel, continued by du Bus and followed up by Van den Bosch. 
He was sanguine in his expectations, and to make room for the indigo 
plants, cut down 5,000,000 coffee trees in 18S0, estimating his crop 
at 1,000,000 lbs. of indigo, but only realized 46,000 lbs, which cost 
the government 196 cents per. lb. In 1832, 133,380| pounds of 
indigo were delivered to the government stores, which cost from ten 
to eleven florins, per. lb. — and the following year 203,000 pounds 
were afforded at a somewhat less expense. 

In 1830 he attempted to force the cultivation of sugar, but what 
was made at that period cost the government twelve florins the picul 
when it was selling for ten in Europe. And it was not till 1832, 
when the price of coffee rose, that attention was given to restore the 
plantations which had been destroyed for the sake of indigo, tea, and 
sugar. The effects of these experiments will be seen in the follow- 
ing statement of the coffee crops for several years. 

In 1830 the coffee crop was 62,174 picals. 

1831 " " " 39,005 " 

1832 " " " 53,293 « 

1833 " «' " 64,788 « 

The agricultural experiments of the Governor General cost, in 1833, 
not less than $75,000, and in the following year, $65,500.* 

The government now rents lands for the cultivation of sugar cane 
on apparently advantageous terms. The land and seed for the first 
year are furnished, and an advance is made of thirty or forty thou- 
sand florins in form of a loan without interest, which the tenant pays 
in sugar at a stipulated price, the quantity to be delivered annually 
being fixed with reference to the quality of the soil and extent of 
the plantation leased .f 

The revenue for the year 1834, is stated at 15,411,986 florins. 

Batavia is the centre of an extensive commerce carried on with 
nearly all parts of India, China, Japan, Europe and the United 
States. The staple articles of export to the last two, are coft'ee and 
sugar; but they are so monopolized by the government, that the trade, 
it is to be feared, will be soon exclusively carried on in Dutch 
bottoms. 

• Kort Overzift der Financiale Resultaten Van het Stelsel van Kultures onder 
den Gouverneur-General Van den Bosch, 1835. 

I Blik op Het Bestuur Van Nedeilandsch — Indie Onder den Gouverneur-Ge- 
neral J. Van den Bosch, 1835, pp. 204. 



COMMERCE COFFEE — SUGAR. 239 

Coffee was introduced from Arabia into Java, about the beginning 
of the eighteenth centurj, and seems at once to have attracted the 
attention and care of the colonists. The soil and climate are admi- 
rably adapted to its cultivation and almost an indefinite quantity 
might be produced^ perhaps enough to supply the present demand 
of the whole world.* 



Export 


OF 


c 


OFFEE FROM JaVA IN 


18 


35. 




Character of Vessel. 












Number of Picula. 


Dutch, 


- 






- 






363,080 


American, 


- 






- - - 






56,435 


French, 


- 






, 






17,177 


English, 


- 






- 






1,145 


Swedish, 


- 






- - . 






535 


Hybro, 


- 






. 






403 



Total number of piculs, 438,775 

The quantity of coffee exported from Padang, (Sumatra) has 
greatly increased in the last five years. In 1835, it amounted to 
90,000 piculs.t 



Export 


OF 


Si 


LTGAR FROM Java in 1835. 




Character of Vessel, 








Number of Piculs. 


Dutch, 


- 




- 


265,784 


American, 


- 




. 


75,068 


French, 


- 




. 


2,145 


English, 


- 




- 


25,175 


Swedish, 


- 




. 


-3,691 


Hybro, 


- 




.. 


400 



Total number of piculs, 372,263 

But it must not be supposed that all the coff'ee and sugar exported 
from Java in American vessels, find their way to the United States: 
many ships carry their cargoes from Batavia to Europe, where they 
are exchanged for merchandise suited to our market. 

An idea of the extent of American trade may be formed from the 
following table, which exhibits the number of vessels with their ag- 
gregate tonnage, that have visited Java for ten years. 

* Dissertatio Historico-politica de commerclo et internse administrationis forma 
possessionum Batavarum in India Orientali. 1833 — pp. 138— a neat brochure 
replete with statistical notes. 

t A picul is equal to 133 i pounds avoirdupois. 



240 AMERICAN TllADE. 

Years. No. of Vessels. No. of Tons. 

1825 - - - - 38 12,962 

1826 - ... 22 - - - - - 7,700 

1827 - . - - ]9 6,250 

1828 .... 14 ... - - 2,086 

1829 - - - . 12 . . - - . 4,356 

1830 ... - 13 4,050 

1831 - . - - 22 7,516 

1832 .... 35 12,338 

1833 .... 67 - - - - - 23,220 

1834 .... 42 16,551 

The value of the trade, in a commercial point of view, may be esti- 
mated at one million of dollars a year. It is set down that each ves- 
sel is provided with the means, either merchandise or bills, of raising 
$60,000 to invest in Java; and, taking the year 1834, on this estimate 
the value of our commerce would be $1,520,000. But we must take 
into consideration that a number of these vessels also visit China and 
Manila, and return again to Batavia: this happens when, arriving out 
of season, the coffee and sugar crops are not ready for delivery, and 
the time, which otherwise might be lost, is filled up, carrying rice to 
Canton, either from Java or the Philippines. But, nationally consi- 
dered, the estimate must be greater. If we reckon six seamen to the 
hundred tons, we shall have nearly a thousand people employed, ex- 
posed to all the vicissitudes of climate, of profession, and of piracy, 
together with the value of the ships, which may be another million, 
in addition to that of their cargoes. The number of lives and amount 
of property are sufficiently great, one might suppose, to call for the 
constant vigilance and protection of the government; but, until within 
late years, the commerce has been carried on without interruption, 
and this is the chief reason why a naval force has not been kept in 
India, the government being satisfied by despatching a vessel of war 
occasionally from the Pacific station, to pass this way on her return 
to the United States. Since the conclusion of the commercial trea- 
ties with the Sultan of Muscat, and His Magnificent Majesty of 
Siam, it is presumable our commercial interests will increase; and, 
including our pepper trade, that with China and the Philippines, we 
may at present estimate American property annually at risk beyond 
the cape of Good Hope, to be worth ten millions of dollars. Pira- 
cies on the coast of Sumatra, and throughout the China seas, are of al- 
most daily occurrence, and the escape of American vessels is to be set 
down to remarkable good fortune, rather than the absence of danger. 



EXCHANGE-BANK OF BATAVIA. 241 

It is presumable that the government will see the necessity and advan- 
tage of keeping a small naval force in those parts of the world for the 
future: how far the policy of keeping more force than just enough, to 
act as a check to piracy, would affect our interests is matter for the 
consideration of those who are possessed of a more intimate know- 
ledge of the Asiatics, insular and continental, than I pretend to. 

For the purchase of produce at Batavia, funds are obtained by the 
importation of merchandise and specie, and by the sale of bills on 
London. In February, 1836, bills on London at six months' sight, 
sold at the rate of twelve guilders per pound sterling; Spanish dol- 
lars being worth at the same time two and a quarter guilders each, or 
225 guilders for 100 dollars. Spanish dollars have been, at times, at 
an advance of 33 per cent. 

Accounts are kept in guilders and cents, one hundred to the guil- 
der. All the coins in circulation are imported from Holland; but 
there is a bank at Batavia which issues paper. This bank was esta- 
blished in 1828, with a capital of 2,000,000 of guilders, and is under 
the direction of a president, a secretary and three commercial direc- 
tors, the first two being appointed by the king. It issues two kinds 
of paper; notes of from twenty -five to one thousand guilders, paya- 
ble in silver; and notes of a smaller denomination, payable in cop- 
per, which are denominated copper-paper. Before the issue of these 
notes, there existed a sort of treasury draft, which was converted 
into specie at broker shops, called " Vervisselings Kantoor." 

The chief article of export to China is rice, which is sent there in 
large quantities. The edible birds' nest is an important article of the 
Java trade. It is of a cream white color, semi-translucent, and in shape 
and size like a quarter of an orange. It is muco-albuminous, and, 
in soup, possesses little or no taste; at least to the European palate. 

The quantity and value of birds' nests, sent to China, are exhibited 



in the following 


table. 










Year. 




Piculs: 




lbs. 


Value in Florins. 


Dollars. Cts. 


1829. 




260 


or 


34,666§ 


435,622 or 


193,609.77 


1830. 




261 




34,800 


448,419 « 


194,893.73 


1831. 




255 




34,000 


334,760 « 


149,226.66 


1832. 




244 




32,533i 


408,355 « 


181,451.11 


1833. 




333 




44,400 


559,492 « 


249,107.55 


1834- 




204 




27,200 


350,032 " 


155,569.77 



By this table, they are worth at the rate of about four dollars and 
thirty-eight cents per ib«; much less than in former years. 

31 



242 ESCULENT birds' NESTS. 

" The quantity of edible birds' nests alone, annually exported from 
Java to China on vessels of this description, is estimated at not less 
than two hundred piciils, of which by far the largest proportion is 
the produce of the Javan rocks and hills. It is well known, that 
these are the nests of a species of swallow [Hirundo esculenta) com- 
mon in the Malayan islands, and in great demand for the China 
table. Their value as a luxury, in that empire, has been estimated 
on importation to be weight for weight equal with silver. The 
price which those nests of the best quality have of late years brought 
in the Canton and Amoi market, has been forty Spanish dollars per 
Mti, of rather more than a pound and a quarter English. They are 
usually classed into first, second, and third sorts, differing in price 
from forty to fifteen Spanish dollars, and even to ten and less for 
the most ordinary. The price in the Batavian market rises as the 
period for the departure of the junks approaches; but as the princi- 
pal produce of Java is still a monopoly in the hands of government, 
it is difficult to fix the price at which they might be sold under 
other circumstances. Generally speaking, however, they sell through- 
out the Eastern islands considerably lower than they are calculated 
to do in China, which may be accounted for by the perishable na- 
ture of the commodity, and the great care necessary to preserve 
them from the damp, as well as from breakage. On this account 
they are seldom bought by European traders. Birds'-nests con- 
signed by the Javan government to the Canton factory in 1813, sold 
to the amount of about fifty piculs, at an average rate of about 
twenty dollars per Mti: but this was at a period when the Chinese 
markets were unusually low. 

" The quantity of birds' nests obtained from the rocks called 
Karang Bolang, on the southern coast of Java, and within the pro- 
vinces of the native princes, is estimated, one year with another, at 
a hundred piculs , and is calculated to afibrd an annual revenue to 
the government of two hundred thousand Spanish dollars. The 
quantity gathered, besides, by individuals, on rocks and hills be- 
longing to them, either in private property or held by farm from the 
government, in other parts of the island, may amount to Miy piculs ; 
making the extent of this export not less than one hundred and fifty 
piculs, besides the amount of the collections from the other islands 
of the Archipelago. 

•' In the Malayan islands, in general, but little care is taken of the 
rocks and caverns which produce this dainty, and the nests pro- 
cured are neither so numerous nor so good as they otherwise would 



ESCULENT birds' NESTS. 243 

be. On Java, where perhaps the birds arc fewer, and the nests in 
general less fine than those to be met with in some of the more East- 
ern islands, both the quantity and quality have been considerably 
improved by European management. To effect this improvement, 
the caverns which the birds are found to frequent, are cleansed by 
smoking and the burning of sulphur, and the destruction of all the 
old nests. The cavern is then carefully secured from the approach 
of man, the birds are left undisturbed to form their nests, and the 
gathering takes place as soon as it is calculated that the young are 
fledged. If they are allowed to remain until the eggs are again laid 
in them, they lose their pure color and transparency, are no longer 
of what are termed the first sort. They are sometimes collected so 
recently after their formation, that time has not been given for the 
birds to lay or hatch her eggs in them, and these nests are con- 
sidered as the most superior^ but as the practice, if carried to any 
extent, would prevent the number of the birds from increasing, it is 
seldom resorted to, where the caverns are in the possession of those 
who have a permanent interest in their produce. Much of their excel- 
lence and peculiar properties, however, depend on the situation of the 
place in which they are formed. It has often been ascertained, for 
instance, that the same bird forms a nest of somewhat different 
quality, according as it constructs it in the deep recesses of an un- 
ventilated and damp cavern, or attaches it to a place where the at- 
mosphere is dry and the air circulates freely. The nature of the 
different substances also to which they are fixed, seems to have some 
influence on their properties. The best are procured in the deepest 
caverns (the favorite retreat of the birds,) where a nitrous dampness 
continually prevails, and where being formed against the sides of the 
cavern, they imbibe a nitrous taste, without which they are little 
esteemed by the Chinese. The principal object of the proprietor of 
a birds' nest rock, is to preserve sufficient numbers of the swallows, 
by not gathering the nests too often, or abstracting those of the finer 
kinds in too great numbers, lest the birds should quit their habita- 
tions, and emigrate to a more secure and inaccessible retreat. It is 
not unusual for a European, when he takes a rock under his super- 
intendence, after ridding it of the old nests and fumigating the 
caverns, to allow the birds to remain undisturbed, two, or three, or 
even more years, in order that they may multiply for his future ad- 
vantage. When a birds'-nest rock is once brought into proper 
order, it will bear two gatherings in the year: this is the case with 



244 BIRDS OF PARADISE STAPLE PRODUCTS. 

the rocks under the care of the officers of the government at Karmig 

Bolang. 

*' In the vicinity of the rocks are usually found a number of per- 
sons accustomed from their infancy to descend into these caverns, in 
order to gat' er the nests^ an office of the greatest risk and danger, 
the best nests being sometimes many hundred feet within the damp 
and slippery opening of the rock. The gatherers are sometimes 
obliged to lower themselves by ropes (as at Kdrang Bolang) over im- 
mense chasms, in which the surf of a turbulent sea dashes with the 
greatest violence, threatening instant destruction in the event of a 
false step or an insecure hold. The people employed by government 
for this purpose, were formerly slaves, in the domestic service of the 
minister or resident at the native court. To them the distribution 
of a few dollars, and the preparation of a buffalo feast after each 
gathering, was thought sufficient pay, and the sum thus expended 
constituted all the disbursements attending the gathering and pack- 
ing, which is conducted by the same persons. This last operation 
is, however, carefully superintended by the resident, as the slightest 
neglect would essentially deteriorate the value of the commodity."* 

Birds of Paradise of several varieties are exported from Batavia^ 
the annual number being about 1500, valued at 10,000 florins. They 
are brought thither in small trading craft from New Guinea, or Pa- 
pua and the Arae Islands, the only places where they have been 
hitherto found. 

"Within a few years tobacco has been successfully cultivated from 
seed brought from Cuba, the cigars made from it are of a very agree- 
able flavor, and will probably become a staple article in the market. 

The following table exhibits the export of the staple articles which 
enter into the trade between Java and Europe and the United States. 

Articles, 1833. 1834. 1835. 

CofFee, - - 360,166 piculs. 455,000 piculs. 438,775 piculs. 



Sugar, - - 210,947 « 375,000 « 372,263 

Rice, - . 849,000 « 700,000 « — 

Indigo, - - 217,480 lbs. " 

Tin, - ■ « 39,000 " — 

Pepper, - - « 7,000 " — 

Hides, - " 54,000 no. -- 



(C 



Tin is obtained at Banka in very large quantities, where the mines 
are worked exclusively by Chinese under the direction of the Dutch. 

* Raffles' History of Java, vol. 1. 



DUTCH TRADE WITH JAPAN. 245 

The great increase in the production of pepper in Sumatra has 
caused its cultivation in Java to be very much neglected. Pepper 
grows in the islands of Java, Sumatra and Ceylon, and on the coast 
of Malabar. It is propagated by carefully selected shoots, and 
flourishes in a hot sun, a strong soil, and requires to be cleared of the 
plants which grow about its roots, particularly during the first three 
years. The vine does not yield fruit until the end of the third year^ 
in the first three years of fructification, some plants afford six or 
seven pounds of peppery after that the quantity decreases until the 
twelfth year, when the vine becomes steril. The Americans at 
present carry on the pepper trade on the coast of Sumatra, probably 
to a greater extent than any other nation. 

Commerce with Japan has been carried on by the Dutch from Ba- 
tavia for many years to the exclusion of all other Christian nations, 
but they possess this lucrative trade at the expense of every thing 
like independence and manly feeling. They have a factory at Nan- 
gasaki for the transaction of business, limited to one or two ships a 
year, which sail from Batavia about the first of July and return in the 
beginning of January. On arriving at Nangasaki, the arms and am- 
munition, and the crew are lodged on shorei and while there, it is 
necessary to conceal, with the most scrupulous care, all signs of 
Christianity, nor can the individuals of the crew have any other than 
Dutch names, at the risk of the vessel being excluded from the port. 
To guard against ships of other nations entering Nangasaki under 
Dutch colors, the annual ship, on leaving Japan is supplied with a 
signal flag, carefully sealed up, which is displayed by the vessel 
making the succeeding yearly voyage, on approaching the port. 

The Japanese are represented as being very curious in their in- 
quiries, on the arrival of the yearly ship, in relation to the news of 
Europe, and delight in being told of the rise and fall of empires, 
of great battles, and of the marriages and deaths of kings and princes. 
We are told that they never manifest gratitude, except for informa- 
tion of this nature. How far and how correctly the Dutch satisfy 
them in this respect, as well as most things in relation to the trade, 
is kept secret, as far as possible. 

The chief of the factory is obliged to visit the capital every fourth 
year, at the expense of $9557, and to send there every year that he 
does not go himself, an interpreter of the establishment, at the cost 
of $4424^ making an average annual charge against the trade of 
$3849. 

The following statement exhibits the cargo of the Japan bound 



246 



DUTCH TRADE 



ship or ships^ for when only one vessel is despatched the same amount 
and kind of property is sent. 



r^ CO 



Articles. (Quantity. 

''Sandal wood, 400 piculs, 

Sappan wood, 1500 

Cocoanut oil, 200 

Ivory, 

|,<( Pepper, 75 

Rattans, 620 

Cloves, 100 

Sugar, 7,000 

^Tin, 400 

''Lead, 50 piculs, 

American soap, 200 boxes. 

Earthenware, 

Ammunition, 

Gold and Silver manufactures, 

Glass ware. 

Woollens, 
^^ K Cotton manufactures. 

Medicine, 

Provisions, 

Saffron, 

Stationery, 

Paints, 

Wines, 
'^Quicksilver, 






J3 <o 



Value in Florins. 

7,000 

8,000 

3,500 

10,000 

1,000 

3,000 

6,000 

100,000 

14,000 

900 

500 

5,000 

1,000 

1,500 

4,500 

65,000 

75,000 

500 

2,500 

500 

100 

150 

300 

1,000 



Opium, arrack, iron-ware, books, &c. in small quantities, the whole 
cargo being estimated at 312,000 florins. 

The return cargo, received in exchange for the above goods, on an 
average of six years, is stated as follows: 



Articles. 


Quantities. 


Value in Flori 


Camphor, 


550 tubs of 100 lb. each, 


44,000 


Copper, 


9,000 piculs. 


630,000 


Porcelain, 




3,500 


Clothing, 




4,000 


Crapes, 




3,000 


Laquered ware, 




16,000 


Linen goods, 




12,000 


Baskets, 




3,000 


Sakie and Soya, 




8,000 


Silks, 




3,000 


Furniture, 




800 



Florins. 




Florins. 


373,853 


From Japan, 


875,405 


23,366 




161,615 


409,270 




663,405 


313,313 




1,067,231 


407,145 




692,979 


340,254 




1,079,500 


261,536 




704,950 


207,880 




569,130 


264,838 




510,039 



WITH JAPAN. 247 

Wax, medicine, gold, curiosities, toys, &c. the whole invoice be- 
ing estimated at 730,000 florins. 



Statement of the gross Amount of Exports and Imports, to 
AND from Japan for nine Years. 

Years. 

1825. To Japan, 

1826. « 

1827. « 

1828. « 

1829. « 
; 1830. <« 

1831. " 

1832. « 

1833. « 



The average amount of imports into Batavia from Japan for the 
above period, exceeds that of the exports for the same time by a lit- 
tle more than four hundred thousand guilders or florins, per annum. 
To this may be added the duty received by the Dutch government 
on the copper and camphor, when again exported, say 50,000 florins^ 
and the six per cent, import duty on the private adventures of super- 
cargoes, say 50,000 florins, making the whole excess 500,000 flo- 
rins. Some years the copper is coined, and perhaps, after deducting 
the mint charges, pays much better than it would, were it given to the 
trade. 

The above statements are taken from the books of the customs, 
where the exports are set down at their highest value, and the im- 
ports at the invoice price. 

This sketch will convey an idea of the importance of the commerce 
with Japan to the Dutch government; after deducting 200,000 florins 
for the expenses of agents, freight, &.c. there is a net profit of 300,000 
florins a year. The trade is conducted in a most expensive manner, 
and, with a strict regard to economy, might be made more profita- 
ble.* 

* For the tables relating to the commerce of Java, the author has to express 
his acknowledgments to O, M. Roberts, Esq. American Consul at Batavia, and to 
Mi\ F. V. B, Morris. 



248 TRADE WITH JAPAN. 

When we see a nation or a company of men consenting to be 
treated as menials, to hide their religious opinions, and subject them- 
selves to the capricious and fantastical laws of a people they deem 
every way inferior to themselves, for the sake of gaining a hundred 
and thirty or forty thousand dollars a year, we must cease to regard 
them with that respect which is the right of every high-minded and 
honorable society^ or feel ourselves ready to sink into competition, 
and, making equal or greater sacrifices, strive to obtain a share of 
the dear-bought profits. Whatever might be the advantages to the 
United States of a commerce with Japan or any other nation, let us 
hope that it will be established, only on the basis of reciprocity; 
" asking for nothing, which is not clearly right, nor submitting to 
any thing that is manifestly wrong." On any other footing, it were 
better to leave the pecuniary advantages to those slaves and base 
panders, whose moral condition may be so pliant as to allow them to 
succumb to any terms for money. 



SKETCHES IN SIA 



32 



DErAllTURR FROM JAVA. 251 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

VOYAGE TO, AND SKETCHES IN SUM. 

March, 1836. 

The uninterrupted rains and a heavy sea, breaking almost constant- 
ly over a sand bar at the mouth of the canal, detained us many days 
longer than we designed to have remained in the roads of Batavia. 
On several occasions the surf was so great, that even the light boats 
of the ship were not able to embark; and the lighters, loaded as they 
were very deeply with stores, were very much less trust-worthy. 
However, on the 16th of February we were ready for sea, and about 
five o'clock P. M. got under way; but the wind failing, we again an- 
chored off the island of Onrust, the site of the naval arsenal of Batavia, 
The veil of clouds that had so constantly hidden the highland of 
Java, was drawn for a few minutes at sunset, and afforded us a 
view of the bold mountain scenes of the interior. It is picturesque, 
and would afford a fit subject for the pencil. 

Though we had every reason to be gratified by the attentions we 
had received, we bade farewell to Batavia without regret, owing 
probably to that influence which circumstances are wont to exercise 
over our feelings. The kindness we every where met with on shore 
was not sufficient to counteract the depressing effects of sultry 
weather and almost constant rain, coupled with the difficulty of get- 
ting to and from the ship, under such circumstances. Under another 
state of things we might have viewed Batavia as a city of palaces, a 
paradise on earth, and considered the day of departure as a day of 
grief. 

The foUowino; morning; we again made sail and stood towards the 
entrance of the straits of Banka, between the island of that name 
and Sumatra. Owing to the head winds and currents our progress 
was slow, and the crew was subjected to hard labor, from the neces- 
sary frequency of anchoring and getting under way. The strait is 



252 BANKA SUMATRA — PIRATES. 

tortuous in its course, from three to seven miles wide, and about a 
hundred miles long: its shores are low, and thickly wooded to the 
water's edge, rendering it next to impossible to land. 

*' Just before sailing from Batavia, that terrible scourge of armies 
and of ships, dysentery, made its appearance on board, and before 
we cleared this strait, we buried two of the crew, William Lewis 
and Charles Fisher, the first deaths among us up to this period of 
the cruise. 

Tbe island of Banka is fertile, and some of its valleys are well cul- 
tivated, yielding fruits and rice; but it is chiefly esteemed for the 
great quantities of tin produced, the ore of which is supposed to con- 
stitute a great part of the island. Tiie chief town, Mintow, is the 
head quarters of the Dutch, by whom it was wrested, many years 
ago, from the Sultan of Palambang. 

Sumatra is an extensive island, and besides a variety of spices, 
produces pepper and coffee in very considerable quantities. On this 
island the Dutch possess three important places; Palambang, Pa- 
dang and Bencoolen; the latter two are on the west coast.* Our 
pepper-traders, however, generally resort to the native ports to the 
northward, Pulo-Raia, Telogulopang, Muckie, South Talapow, Tru- 
mond and Qualla-Battoo. The inhabitants are Malays, treache- 
rous and warlike, and for many years their piratical prahus and 
boats have been the terror of merchant vessels, not only in the 
straits of Banka and Malacca, but on the western coast of Sumatra 
and throughout the China Sea. Lately their depredations, owing to 
the activity of English and Dutch government cruisers, have been less 
frequent, but they are still sufficiently numerous to require the pre- 
sence of a strong force to keep them in check. f The chastisement 
inflicted on the Malays at Qualla-Battoo, by Commodore Downes, in 
the United States Frigate Potomac, in 1832, was a serviceable lesson, 
which might teach them that murder and theft cannot be committed 
upon our citizens in any part of the world, so distant that the strong 
arm of our power cannot reach.:]: It is to be hoped that the occa- 
sional appearance of American vessels of war will deter them, for 
the future, from any act requiring punishment at our hands; though 
it would not be politic to trust, altogether, that their memory of the 

• For a description of these islands, see Marsden's History of Sumatra, 
f White's Voyage to the China Sea. Boston, 1823. The Chinese Reposi- 
tory is replete with instances of the piratical depredations of the Malays. 
+ Voyage of the United States Fj-igate Potomac, by J. N. Reynolds. 



CLIMATE— ISLAND OF BORNEO. 253 

past will be a guarantee for their good conduct in the future: to 
ensure it, thej must be kept in awe. At present, thej are in arms 
against the Dutch; and, from the small force opposed to the rebels, 
it would not be a matter of surprise if the Netherland tyrants were 
expelled from tiie island. The Dutch say, that these rebellions 
against their authority have been excited, in almost every instance, 
by the machinations of the English. 

Leaving the north opening of the strait of Bank a, we stretched 
eastward till we saw the west coast of Borneo, and then beat to the 
northward, some days making only ten or fifteen miles. The ther- 
mometer ranged at about 82° ¥.', but wc had here most palpable evi- 
dence, that the thermometer is no criterion of our perception of tem- 
perature. The officers, in most instances, resorted to their cloth 
clothing; and at night, the seamen put on their pea-jackets. The air 
was chilly, even when the sun was shining clear. I have remarked 
again and again in different parts of the world, that, under the same 
thermometric range in the temperate and torrid zones, there is a dif- 
ference in our sense of heat, of at least ten degrees. When the ther- 
mometer is at 85° F. within the tropics, at sea particularly, the sen- 
sation of heat is probably not greater than where it stands at 75° F. 
beyond the torrid belt. The hottest weather I have experienced in 
tropical climates, was at Muscat, when the thermometer ranged from 
89° to 92°, yet, I think, I have suffered more from heat at Philadel- 
phia, when it ranged from 79° to 83° F. Besides the constitution of 
the atmospheric fluid, its temperature and state of moisture, there is 
something more to be understood, probably its electrical condition, 
before we can explain what is termed climate; but we may not pause 
here to discuss the question. 

The island of Borneo, after New Holland the largest in the worldj 
it is to christian nations almost a terra incognita; the interior is 
unknown to ail but the savage tribes that inhabit it. Some of the mari- 
time parts are well known to the Dutch, who have establishments on the 
west coast, at Sambas and Pontiana: but in this, as well as in many 
other parts of the East, much of the information which they have col- 
lected, remains locked up in the archives of their government, and 
scarcely a ray of light, that it is in their power to conceal, is allowed 
to issue forth for the benefit of other Europeans, or of the poor de- 
graded natives. Several English adventurers have made short jour- 
neys on land, or sailed up rivers; and a few individuals have resided 
several months or years on the coasts, to whom we are indebted for 
what information v/e possess. 



254 WEST ISLAND DAYAKS OF BORNEO. 

The population is estimated at 3,500,000, and is made up of Ma- 
lays, Chinese, Bugis, Javans, Dayaks, and a few Europeans. With 
the exception of the Dayaks, (the aboriginal inhabitants, said to be 
entirely destitute of religion,) who occupy the interior, all the other 
tribes named, inhabit the coasts. The Malays practise their pirati- 
cal propensities; the Chinese and Bugis engage in commerce; the 
Javans are peaceful cultivators of the soil, while the savage Dayaks 
murder for pastime, and glory in cutting oif human heads; he who 
has most of these bloody trophies, standing highest in the eyes of wife 
or paramour. 

The products are camphor, pepper, sago, opium, wax, rattans; birds' 
nests, tortoise and pearl shells; gold, gold-dust, antimony and dia- 
monds, which are exported to China and Singapore, by the East In- 
dians, and to Europe, by the Dutch. The coast is famous for pirates, 
and the interior for Dayaks and ourang outangs; some of which, it 
is said, measure seven feet high. I suspect this to be a mistake, for 
I saw one from this island, at Batavia, whose stature did not exceed 
three and a half feet, and I believe the largest hitherto in European 
collections does not exceed four. 

Numerous small islands are strewed along the west coast, which 
render the navigation somewhat intricate, and afford convenient hiding 
places for the Malay pirates: we visited one of these called West Isl- 
and, and found three good streams of water. 

" The occupations of the Dayaks are various. More of them are 
engaged in agricultural employments, chiefly in the cultivation of 
rice, than is generally supposed by those who know nothing of them, 
except v/hat they have learned from geography and brief newspaper 
notices. Probably, more are employed in this, than any other occu- 
pation. And those who are employed, are generally inclined to be 
peaceful. In the Memoir of Sir S. Raffles, we find the following 
character given of them. ' The Dayaks are not only industrious in 
their habits, but particularly devoted to agriculture; and so manage- 
able, that a handful of Malays have, in many instances, reduced many 
thousands to the condition of peaceful cultivators of the ground. In- 
deed nothing seems wanting to efl*ect this on a great scale, but a strong 
government, which can afford protection to property, and safety to 
individuals; and in the case of the Dayaks, I regard it as an advan- 
tage, that they have not hitherto adopted the religion of Islam, and 
would consequently be more ready, from the first, to regard us as 
their friends and protectors.' 

" Many of tliem are engaged in other useful avocations, such as col- 



HUNTING HUMAN HEADS BY THE DAYAKS. 255 

lecting camphor, birds' nests, raUans, beeswax, and otlier products 
of the forests, and also in mining for diamonds, searching for gold 
dust, and the manufacture of such articles as thej use for clothing or 
ornament of their persons, or implements of husbandry, mining or 
war. But the occupation for which thej are most notorious, is that 
of * head-hunting.' Respecting the fact that the men must procure 
at least one head before thej can marry, and that they preserve the 
heads and skulls of persons they have slain, as trophies and orna- 
ments, there can be no reasonable doubt. It is asserted, so far as we 
can learn, by every one who has had any proper opportunity to know 
the truth respecting it. Mr. Dalton gives us the fullest account that 
we have seen of the manner in which they proceed to procure heads, 
and I will therefore transcribe the substance of it. Selji, the chief 
with whom he lived, had with him, on a head-hunting expedition, for- 
ty large canoes from eighty to one hundred feet in length. They are 
made of a kind of beech, which grows to an amazing height. They 
carry from forty to eighty men, and, as all use paddles, they move 
with almost incredible swiftness. In proceeding towards a distant 
village, the canoes are never seen on the river during the day. They 
commence their journey about half an hour after dark, and pull si- 
lently along near the bank of the river. One boat keeps directly be- 
hind another, and the handles of the paddles are covered with the 
soft bark of a tree, so that no noise is made. About half an hour be- 
fore daylight, they pull the boat up upon the banks, and conceal them- 
selves among the trees and jungle. Here they sleep and feed upon 
monkeys, snakes, wild hogs, and whatever animals they can obtain | 
and if animals cannot be procured, they live upon the young sprouts 
of certain trees, and wild fruit. ' Should the rajah want flesh, and 
it cannot be procured with the sumpit (native arrow,) one of his fol- 
lowers is killed.' 

'* Whilst part of them are hunting and cooking, others ascend the 
highest trees to examine the country and observe if any village or hut 
be near, which they know by the smoke. When the boats have 
arrived within about a mile from a village, they prepare themselves 
for the attack. About one-third of the party are sent forward to go 
through the jungle and take their stations near the village in the night. 
They place men in every path leading from the village, to intercept 
any of the people who may attempt to escape. The rest of the party 
come forward with their boats in such time as to arrive near the village 
about an hour before daylight. They then put on their fighting dresses 
and creep slowly forward, leaving, however, a few men in each boat, 



256 HEAD-HUNTING IN BORNEO. 

and about a dozen with the women who remain in the jungle. About 
twenty minutes before day, they set fire to the village by throwing 
fire balls upon the atap roofs. The war cry is raised, and the work 
of murder commences. The male inhabitants are speared or cut 
down with the sword, as they descend the ladders from their dwellings 
to escape the flames. The women and children are generally seized 
by those who went forward to occupy the paths leading from the vil- 
lage. Should any of the villagers reach their boats, the plundering 
party have their boats so stationed as to make an escape impossible. 
This is an important object with them, as a single fugitive might give 
information to other villages and prevent their future success. After 
the women and children are collected, the old women are killed and 
the heads of the men cut off, and preserved carefully, they being the 
great objects of the expedition. 'From the last excursion,' says 
Mr. D , in 1828, ' Selji's people brought with them seven hun- 
dred heads.' The value and dignity of a warrior are estimated by 
the number of heads he has procured. 

'* No Dayak can marry the daughter of a warrior without having 
previously taken a head or two. If a young man proposing to marry 
has not so many as are required by the father of the bride, he mus- 
ters a few friends, takes a swift boat and leaves that part of the 
country, and will not return till the number is complete, which is 
frequently not till three or four months have elapsed. Some of the 
Dayaks are cannibals, though they are not, like the Battaks of Suma- 
tra, generally so. They bury the arms of their warriors with their 
bodies, and also some articles of food. They lay them in a grave 
without a coffin, and set up some fresh heads over it. This descrip- 
tion of the great peculiarity of the Dayaks applies more particularly 
to that part of them who are not civilized enough to become culti- 
vators of the soil, and are raised some degrees above what Mr. Dal- 
ton calls the wild Dayaks. The passion for heads, or rather the 
custom of taking them, is, however, very general. When it is not 
followed on the large scale described above, heads are procured gene- 
rally by way-laying some poor fishermen, who are beheaded without 
resistance. It is difficult to imagine how so peculiar and barbarous 
a custom could have originated, unless it were from love of military 
glory. 



*' In personal appearance the Dayaks are much superior to the 
Malays. They are generally taller and better formed. They also 



GULF OF SIAM FLOATING ISLANDS. ^57 

possess more strength and activity. In respect to these qualities, 
thej seem to compare well with the Indian tribes of North America, 
whom tliey also resemble in some of their moral characteristics. 
Their character has been viewed by Europeans generally through the 
deceptive medium of a single trait, or rather a single custom. They 
have heard that the Dayaks are in the habit of cutting off heads, and 
that both men and women exult in the deed, and perhaps drink the 
blood that flows from themj and they conclude that they must be the 
most savage of all savages, in all their habits and in their whole charac- 
ter. But in thus judging, they do these poor brethren of our one great 
family much injustice. It is indeed true that they have this custom, 
and that perhaps nearly all the men have been guilty of murder^ but 
they ought not to be regarded like most murderers in other countries. 
They seek for heads, as we would seek wealth or office^ and they 
constitute their wealth and honor. The Dayak head-hunter cherishes 
no enmity towards the persons he kills, either private or national. 
They are probably less worthy of censure, and in the day of final 
retribution will probably be less severely punished, than many an 
individual in more enlightened countries who does a wrong merely 
because it is customary to do it.''* 

After getting to the northward of the Natunas islands, the wind 
hauled to the northward and eastward, and we stretched into the 
gulf of Siam. The sea was smooth and the breeze gentle, and though 
the range of the thermometer was but little altered, our sensation of 
heat was much augmented. 

In our passage up the gulf we fell in with several small floating 
islands of more than twenty feet in extent, covered with palm branches 
and drifting about on the current. Numerous fish were playing 
about their margins, and aquatic birds were circling round, and occa- 
sionally alighting on them. The gulf is the resort of a great num- 
ber of sea snakes of several varieties^ no one of those we took ex- 
ceeded two feet in length. Some were brown and others mottled 
with yellow. Several were caught in bags of bunting, fitted on small 
hoops. By this means we took a number of specimens of Janthina, 
upon which we found several young shells and diminutive cuttle fish, 
not more than four lines lono-. 

Early on the 25th of March, v/e found ourselves w^ithin a few hours' 
sail of the mouth of the river Meinamj and in order to save time, the 
Enterprise was despatched with the following communication, 

* The Chinese Repositaiy. vol iv. 1 83 5-"6o 
33 



258 LETTER TO THE CHAO p'hAYA PRAK KLANG. 

*' To His Excellency the Chao P'haya Prah Klang, one of the first 
ministers of state to His Magnificent Majesty the King of Siam: 

*' Edmund Roberts, Special Envoy from the United States of Ame- 
rica, has the honor to inform your Excellency, that he has arrived off 
the bar of the Meinam, in the United States Ship Peacock, command- 
ed by Captain Stribling, accompanied by the United States Schooner 
Enterprise, Captain Campbell, the squadron being under the com- 
mand of Commodore Kennedy. 

** The Envoy begs leave to state, that he has brought back the trea- 
ty, which he had the honor to conclude between His Majesty of Siam 
and the United States of America, on the 20th day of March, in the 
year 1833, and which v/as ratified on the part of his government, on 
the 30th day of June, 1834, and which is now returned for the pur- 
pose of exchanging it for its counterpart in the possession of Siam, 
on its being duly ratified by His Majesty, and the royal seal of the 
kingdom affixed to the articles of the treaty, as well as to the neces- 
sary certificate of ratification. 

*' The Envoy has also the honor to inform your Excellency that he 
has brought with him the articles, His Majesty of Siam, and your 
Excellency requested should be sent, by the United States Govern- 
ment, with the exception of the stone statues, which could not be ob- 
tained, and also the trees and plants and seeds, which were destroyed 
on the passage, the Peacock having been unfortunately wrecked about 
six months since on the coast of Arabia^ but the deficiency in the sta- 
tues has been repaired by purchasing an extra number of the most ele- 
gant and expensive lamps, together with some other articles. 

** Your Excellency is therefore requested to send a suitable vessel 
to receive the presents before alluded to, with an order directed to 
me for their delivery. Your Excellency is further requested to fur- 
nish the Envoy with convenient and proper vessels, capable of pro- 
tecting from the inclemencies of the weather, himself, and officers, 
and servants, who may accompany him, to the number of twenty-five 
persons, with as little delay as possible, as the Envoy has to visit 
many kingdoms, and has a great many thousands of miles of ocean 
to traverse^ to accomplish which, will necessarily occupy at least 
twelve months. 

" The undersigned has the honor to remain, with the highest consi- 
deration of esteem and respect, your Excellency's friend, &c. &c. 

Edmund Roberts. 

"Dated on board the United States Ship of war Peacock, in the 
gulf of Siam, the 24th day of March, 1836." 



SI-CHANG ISLANDS— WHITE SQUIRRELS. 259 

The expression, jour humble servant, &c. commonly used with us, 
should always be carefully avoided in addressing communications to 
Asiatics, because they construe it literally, and, in their opinion, it 
places the writer in ah inferior and inconsiderable position in regard to 
themselves. 

Soon after the Enterprise separated from us, we anchored oft* the 
largest of a group of small islands called Si-chang or Dutch islands, 
situated about twenty miles from the mouth of the Meinam river, and 
eight from the west coast of Cambodia. The island is not five miles 
in extent^ it is high, rocky, and covered with a thin soil and stunted 
vegetation. 

In the afternoon, several parties of officers landed and walked in 
different directions, to ascertain whether water could be obtained for 
the shipi but, though it is said to be plenty in the rainy monsoon, we 
found it to exist in very small quantities at this season. Several white 
squirrels, a common blue pigeon, and an animal having the general 
characteristics of a bat, but very much larger, were shot. The fly- 
ing-fox, as it is called (a species of pteropus) is very frequent through- 
out India. The head resembles that of a dogi the body is about eight 
inches long, and the spread wings measure nearly four feet. The 
irides are of an opaque yellow. They are often met with in the day, 
suspended from leafless trees, hanging one from the other, in strings 
and clusters. They make great depredations on fruit trees and gar- 
dens, but are considered to be harmless in other respects. 

In my excursion, I came upon a small religious temple, erected 
near the shore, probably by fishermen, to propitiate their patron god. 
It consisted of a wooden hut, raised on posts two feet above the 
ground, having three sides closed, and the fourth open to the sea. 
This apartment was about four feet by six, and the height of the 
thatched roof, perhaps ten. On the back wall were stuck pieces of 
red paper, marked with black Siamese letters^ in each corner leaned 
a wooden sword and the beak of a saw-fish. In the middle of the 
floor, standing on a fold of tinsel paper, was a green porcelain bowl, 
full of earth, planted with dead straws. On either side were some 
pieces of coral, upon which reposed small boards inscribed with Sia- 
mese characters, and the figures of an elephant and a horse, such as 
we usually see among German toys. 

After nightfall we were visited by a Talapoin, or priest, who 
seemed to be the head-man among the very few people on the island. 
He entered the cabin in a half bent posture, in token of respect, but 
very soon assumed an erect position. A robe of dirty yellow cloth 



260 TALAFOIN INHABITANTS OF SI-CHANG. 

hung from his shoulders to the knees; his head and eyebrows were 
closely shaven, and his arms and legs were bare. He seated himself, 
and drew from his girdle a small tin box, from which he filled his 
mouth with arecanut, betel leaf and chunam; and, thus fortified, he 
talked, chewed and gesticulated 5 but his speech, though it might have 
been very fine for aught we knew, was to us a rigmarole. In return 
for it, we offered him bread, tobacco, snuff and gin; the last he car- 
ried to his people; but instead of putting the snuff in his nose, he 
wrapped it in a piece of paper, and made us understand, if the quan- 
tity were increased, the present would be more acceptable. He ap- 
peared unwilling to touch a tumbler with his lips, and in place of it, 
drank out of the top of his own tobacco-box. He carried with him 
a sheet of slate paper, twenty feet long, by fifteen inches broad, fold- 
ed alternately right and left, so that its dimensions were about two 
inches thick, four broad and fifteen long. After making him compre- 
hend, by the aid of a short vocabulary, arranged by Mr. Hoberts on 
his former visit, v»^ho we were, and writing with his pencil of talc 
upon his book, the name of the ship, and whither we were bound, he 
took leave, seemingly well satisfied with what he had done. 

Early the following morning, we went in pursuit of white squirrels; 
under the protection of the religious prejudices of the inhabitants 
against taking away animal life, there is nothing to interrupt their in- 
crease, and we found them in considerable numbers. Two or three men 
of Mongol physiognomy attached themselves to our train, and were ever 
ready to point out the game. With the exception of a sarong about 
the hips, they were naked, and viewed our clothes and fowling-pieces 
with apparent wonder and astonishment; and were not content until 
they had felt of every article of our dress, even to our shoes. They 
all chewed arecanut and its concomitants; their teeth were conse- 
quently black, and their mouths were any thing but agreeable to look 
upon. It is probably owing to this disgusting habit, that the areca- 
chewing nations of the East, have never acquired the custom of kiss- 
ingl 

On our return to the boat, we found the inhabitants of the village 
eating breakfast, consisting of boiled rice and fish, of which they very 
politely invited us to join, but our prejudices against filthy appear- 
ances compelled us to decline. They were squatted round a large 
dish, from which they supplied their bowls, and then shovelled the 
mouth full of rice with chop sticks. The village consists of a half 
dozen huts of bamboo and boards, raised on posts a foot or two from 
the ground. They were cheerless, and far from clean. The women. 



SIAM ROADS. 261 

in general, wore only a sarong; some few added a piece of black 
crape folded diagonally over the chest, so as to partially conceal the 
bosom, and young girls wandered about in nature's suit, as unsophis- 
ticated and shameless as Eve before her fall. 

At three o'clock, P. M. the ship was got under way, but very soon 
ran upon a rock in the mid-channel, where she remained two hours, 
until the rising of the tide carried her oiF without damage. On sound- 
ing round, it w^ls found that the rock was not more than one hundred 
feet in extent, beyond which there was four and live fathoms water. 
A few hours brought us to the Roads of Siam, where w^e anchored 
about eight o'clock, P. M. and exchanged signals with the Enter- 
prise. 

The next day we looked for land, but without a spy-glass, could, 
see none. The anchorage for ships, drawing more than twelve feet 
water, is ten miles from the mouth of the Meinam, which is deep 
enough as far as the city; but there is a bar eight miles from its en- 
trance which interrupts large vessels, and may be a serious obstacle 
to foreign trade. 

We were obliged to wait, patiently as we might, a reply to Mr. 
Roberts' communication, to the authorities given above, before we 
could proceed to Bankok. When it was carried from the Enter- 
prise to Paknam, two miles up the river, the old governor was un- 
willing to forward it to the P'hra Klang, until there had been a deal 
of talk and interpretation. 



262 PRINCE MOMFANOI. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



SKETCHES IN SIAM. 



April, 1836. 

On the S8tli of March, the ship was visited by Prince Momfanoi, 
heir apparent to the throne of Siam. The boat he came in was not 
distinguishable from those of the common people; it had a semicylin- 
drical roof of wattled bamboo over the stern, under which he reposed, 
sheltered from the sun, but suffering from the want of ventilation, 
though both ends of the oven were open. Unaccustomed to go afloat, 
he was threatened with sea sickness after being a short time on board, 
and therefore, departed earlj for the shore. 

The Prince was dressed in a jacket of pink damasked crape, closely 
fitting the body, and reaching from the hips to the throatj a sarong of 
dark silk, knotted in front, the ends hanging down nearly to the ground, 
and over it was tied a light sash, upon which two jewelled rings of 
large size were strung. This costume left the head, arms and legs 
bare. He has an active, determined look. His stature is not more 
than five feet five inches; his limbs are stout and well proportioned. 
His complexion is olive, almost as dark as that of the majority of ne- 
groes met with in the northern and middle sections of the United 
States. His hair is coarse and black, and, excepting a tuft trimmed 
and standing up like bristles on the top of the head, is cut very close. 
The general character of his features is that of the Mongol race. 
The form of the eye is paraboloid, the upper lid extending in a thin 
fold over the lower one at the side of the nose, which is rather flat; 
the lips are full, the chin retreating, and with the exception of a few 
hairs on the upper lip, he has no beard. The superior lateral parts 
of the forehead are a little flattened, while the upper and middle part 



VISIT TO PAKNAM. 263 

is prominent^ the supra-orbital region is full, and the eyes set well 
apart. Such is the personal description, which I have so minutely 
given-, of the most promising individual among the Siamese 

While on board, he displayed considerable knowledge and was 
very inquisitive about nautical affairs. He made favourable mention 
of the American missionaries, by whom he was taught English, which 
he speaks very intelligibly. He was quite at home on board, and 
when his attention was attracted to any particular part of the ship, 
he stood with his arms a-kimbo and feet wide apart, with a swaggering 
air, more characteristic of an old time admiral than a distinguished 
prince of a royal court. 

His several attendants, with the exception of the sarong, were naked; 
and one named Sap, was distinguished by his master often pointing 
out to him what appeared worthy of notice. He bore a small gilt 
salver with a goblet-shaped foot, on which were a gold watch, still in 
the leathern pouch of the maker, a chunam box; a number of very 
acute cone-shaped cigars of Siamese cut tobacco rolled in dry plan- 
tain leaf; a lighted match of cocoanut rope in a tube like a Peru- 
vian mechero, with rolls of cire leaf, &c. Another carried an ena- 
melled tea-pot and a small porcelain tea-cup. Whenever the Prince 
passed any of them in his walks about the decks, they at once squat- 
ted down; and whenever he took any thing from tiie salver, the bearer 
dropped upon his knees. 

On the 30th of March, I determined to go to Bankok in spite of 
all formalities, and with a friend set off*. We got the bearings of the 
mouth of the Meinam, and following the compass course, bounded 
merrily over the sea till we entered the river. On the bar there are a 
number of stakes driven into the bottom, and their ends above the 
surface mark the channel or fishing grounds, or something else; the 
stakes were covered with muscles, having clear, apple-green colored 
shells. The land is low and thickly wooded to the water's edge. 
On the muddy margin, exposed by the receding tide, we saw a number 
of white herons and a crocodile, at least ten feet long. 

When fairly within the river, a pretty view presents itself. On 
the left, all is thickly green, on the right, is the village of Paknam 
with its white fortress, and in the centre is a circular fort with nu- 
merous embrasures, over the top of which is seen the tapering spire 
of a pagoda — a solid mass of masonry without interior apartment. 
At this point the river is about a mile wide. 

We had determined, should we not be hailed, to proceed up the 
river without stopping; and with his view, steered midway betweea 



264 PAKNAM — governor's house. 

the fort in the river and that at Paknam. We were not literally 
hailed, but were gesticulated at, by an individual near the fort on the 
main, with so much earnestness that it prevailed over our resolution, 
and we landed. A path through thickly growing shrubs, ten yards 
long, brought us to a substantial store-house with a veranda, beneath 
which several naked Siamese were stretched on the ground, chew- 
ing betel, and watching a smouldering fire which had served to pre- 
pare their suppers, the evidence of which might be gathered from 
several earthen pans in the vicinity. Here we were met by one who 
appeared to be a leader. He nodded his head, pointed towards the 
village, which was not visible, and, leading the way, we followed. A 
few yards brought us to a canal over which we passed on a bank of 
stones, the vilest and roughest bridge I have any where seen. For- 
tunately we soon trod on a narrow trottoir, paved with large bricks, 
leading between rows of bamboo huts, shaded by trees: some of them 
were shops having projecting windows, in which were displayed fruit, 
eggs, &c. We had scarcely got thus far before we were saluted by a 
host of lank curs that barked more in fear than threatening. A few 
yards brought us to the bazaar. The venders were all women. They 
were seated among their wares on bamboo platforms about two 
feet from the ground, shaded by the projecting roofs of the huts be- 
fore which the stalls were built. They wore only a dark blue cotton 
cloth, so disposed about the limbs and hips as to resemble a pair of 
drawers, and some wore, in addition, a piece of black crape over the 
shoulders. Their hair was cut close, except a bristling tuft on top 
of the head, and all were chewing areca nut, and betel or cire leaf. 
Here, for the first time in the East, we saw cowries circulating as 
money; but their value is so extremely small, (about 15,000 to the 
dollar,) that bushels of them were seen in many of the stalls, yet 
there are articles to be purchased for a single one, as arecanut, betel 
leaf, &c. So minute a division of money must be very advantageous 
to the poor, in a country where produce is plenty and labor very 
low. 

We soon reached the dwelling of his Excellency the Governor. 
His mansion, we found on following our guide through a door-way 
into a considerable enclosure, stood on posts about seven feet from 
the ground; the walls were of bamboo, pierced with irregular-shaped 
octangular holes; windows they were not, having neither sash nor 
shutter. The thatched roof projected at the eaves about five feet, 
and was supported all round by stout posts, thus forming a sort of 
veranda. The entrance was by a ladder of .five or six steps, which 



RECEPTION BY THE GOVEVNOR. 265 

landed in a vestibule or open court, the left side being bounded by 
the family apartments, and the right by a hall, thirty by fifteen feet, 
the floor of which was elevated two feet above that of the court. The 
ceiling of the hall was flat, dark-colored, twenty feet high, and next 
to the court, where there was neither partition nor wall, supported by 
two wooden pillars. This apartment was furnished with chairs and 
bamboo settees, of Chinese manufacture. In one corner stood a cu- 
riously carved temple of the Penates, resembling an old-fashioned 
bed-stead, a use to which, as we afterwards discovered, it was occa- 
sionally put. Lamps hung from the ceiling, and many Chinese mirrors 
with silvered frames were suspended close to the cornice; and in the 
centre was a chandelier, which consisted of a tarnished brass hoop 
wrought in an odd style, having several tumblers of oil and water in 
brass rings, suspended by chains from its margin, and a goblet sus- 
tained after the same fashion in the middle. 

When we came into the presence, His Excellency was only girdled 
with a scanty silk sarong, reclining on the hall floor, his back re- 
posing on a leathern pillow of prismatic shape, which touched the base 
of one of the pillars above mentioned. He rested on the right elbow, 
and with the hand of the same side, supported along wooden pipe, from 
which he inhaled the fumes of opium. The right leg was extended, 
parallel with the terminating edge of the floor, while the left one was 
drawn up to enable him to scratch the toes with his unoccupied 
hand. 

The floor of the vestibule was crowded by slaves or people of in- 
ferior rank-whence their inferior place — resting on their knees and 
elbows, the body retreating a little, chewing betel as quietly as cows 
do the cud, and looking up into his Excellency's face, as they 
listened to his conversation, the intonation of which in our ears was 
maudlin and unpleasant. 

All this was revealed to us at a glance. As we entered, His Ex- 
cellency rose, and taking us by the hand with a hearty grasp, fairly 
raised us upon the floor, where he had been just reclining, and motionetl 
us to a seat. Cigars and tea, in very small cups without sugar, were 
immediately served; and in a few moments afterwards an interpreter 
arrived, whose office we might not have suspected, had he not con- 
trived to make us understand that such was his vocation. He 
assumed the attitude of other inferiors present, and before speaking, 
made a salam in the Siamese fashion, by opposing the palms and 
carrying the hands to the forehead, and again letting them fall. His 
name was Ramon, a Portuguese christian, whose skin was nearly as 
34 



266 THE CAPTAIN OF THE PORT AND HIS EXCELLENCY. 

dark as that of the governor; his costume differed in nothing from 
that of the Siamese who were present. 

We informed His Excellency, we were on our way to Bankok, to 
procure water and provisions for the ship, which we had in vain 
endeavoured to obtain at Paknam. He replied, that we could not 
go — that his authority did not extend so far as to enable him to give 
us permission; and if we had gone up, his head would have been for- 
feited — that he would send for the w^ater and provisions. 

Such was the substance of our conversation. We next visited 
Piadade, the Captain of the port, who is also a Portuguese born in 
Siam. We found him in a mean bomboo hut, chew^ing arecanut. 
He told us, he had just arrived from the city with a letter for Mr. 
Roberts. He affected much surprise when informed that we pro- 
posed to go to Bankok. 

« Very sorry — but no can go!" 

*' Who will prevent us?" 

** Nobody prevent you — ^suppose you go, I tell you certain, you 
break friendship — you get me iiog, and that poor old governor get 
his head cut off." 

He offered to accompany us back to the governor's, and there dis- 
cuss the matter farther. On our return, a large brass salver, with a 
goblet-shaped foot, was brought, loaded with boiled duck-eggs, fish, 
sugar-cane and plantains. This was placed on a chair, and on an- 
other beside it, a brass basin of water with a small cup of the same 
metal, floating on its surface. Some of his visiters, from the Enter- 
prise, had presented His Excellency with a bottle of gin, which was 
also produced on the occasion. We were invited to eat, but did not 
taste any thing except a plantain. 

We now urged the necessity of proceeding to the city, but were 
answered as before. The Captain of the port sat upon the floor, 
wearing the sarong and a piece of black crape over the shoulders. 
He repeated what would be the consequences to the governor and 
himself, if we persisted in going to Bankok. He was evidently anx- 
ious, and proposed to despatch a letter to Mr. R. Hunter, who, he 
said, would send us whatever we might require. He urged, that the 
king was now well disposed towards us, and our going to the city at 
this time, would "break friendship." We remarked, that it was 
any thing but friendly to keep us so long from the city, without 
water or stock; for want of which, we must be in a short time suffer- 
ing. He replied, that different nations had different customs — '* In 
the presence of your king, that you call President, you stand up and 



PADDY MILL. 9.^7 

pull off your liat; in the presence of tiic king of Siam, you sit down 
and pull off your shoes, I am your friend. Mr. Roberts can tell 
you.. Your laws are different from those of Siam, all the same as 
between heaven and — -" looking significantly, and at the same time 
pointing downwards. I thought the comparison was just, and I sus- 
pect might be extended to the inhabitants of the two places, without 
any great departure from justice I 

Finding that we still persisted in going to the city, he proposed 
that the governor should write to the P'hra Klang for permission for 
us to proceed. To this we at last acceded, telling him at the same 
time, that we did so solely in consideration of the governor's head 
and both of their skins. Both were evidently much relieved. Our 
baggage was brought up from the boat and my companion wrote to 
Mr. Hunter. 

In the mean time, I looked around the premises, Tv/enty yards 
from the house were several huts, occupied by some of the governor's 
slaves. Several women were walking about, and one was " hulling 
paddy " in a mill, similar to those used four thousand years ago. It 
consisted of two circular stones, two feet in diameter, resting one 
on the otheri a bamboo basket was wrought around the upper one so 
as to form the hopper. A peg was firmly set into the face of the 
upper stone, half-way between its periphery and centre, having tied 
to it by one end, a stick three feet long, extended horizontally and 
attached by the other to another stick pending from the roof of the 
shed under which the mill was placed. This forms a crank bj 
which the upper stone is made to revolve on the other, set firmly on 
the ground. The motion throws the rice through the centre of the 
stone, and causes it to escape between the edges of the two. 

Beneath the governor's mansion were several canoes, one not less 
than forty feet long, dug out of a single tree. Among the riches 
of Siam, its quantities of fine timber cannot be reckoned the least. 

Soon as it was dark all the lamps were lighted. His Excellency 
still occupied his place, smoking pipe or cigars and chewing areca- 
nut, which was reduced to powder in an iron tube, because, having 
lost all his teeth, he is unable to masticate it in anv other form. His 
mouth is very large, and when he gapes, which he does very fre- 
quently, one almost fancies that he is about to lose his head. He 
passes his time in sipping tea, chewing and spitting in a porcelain 
spittoon, kept constantly beside him. He inquired our respective 
ages, and wondered that we were so young; telling us, at the same 
time, he was sixty-four years old. 



268 FEMALE COSTUME SIAMESE TWINS. 

Several of his female grand children came in, the eldest twelve 
years of age 5 and in feminine existence, years are longer in the tor- 
rid than in the temperate zone. They were all in mother Eve's cos- 
tume after she ate the apple, except that their fig-leaf was of gold, 
wrought in fiUigree, and sustained by a rich chain of the same metal, 
worn about the hips. The eldest asked for a cigar, which she smoked 
like one who is a veteran in the vice. I afterwards saw much young- 
er children smoking, and I have good authority for stating that in- 
fants not yet weaned smoke tobacco. 

We sat on the floor smoking and sipping tea for an hour or two with 
Piadade, whom we found to be a mild good-hearted old man. The 
famous Siamese Twins were a theme of conversation. They have 
been probably of as much service as any pair of patriots in their coun- 
try, first, by generally calling the attention of the christian world to- 
wards it, secondly, by affording Mr. Bulwer a subject for his pen, 
and last, by causing some of the Siamese interested in them, to hear 
of countries of the existence of which they were ignorant before the 
brothers set out on their travels. " Where are the twins?" was asked 
of every one who visited the shore. Piadade shook his head: *' Their 
poor mother cry plenty about those boys. They say, they make 
plenty money — no send never any to their poor mother." In fact, 
they have in Siam the character of being dissipated and unfilial. Ne- 
vertheless, they still attract attention. 

*' Our Twins were saved to flow 



Thro' Time's far stream in rhyme and glory. 
And inch by inch tog-ether grow, ' 

[The heroes of an English story." 

Strictly speaking, they are not Siamese, though born in Siam: their 
parents, as I was told, are Chinese. 

Straw mats were spread in the middle of the floor, and upon them 
two mattresses, much patched- with velvet. In the mean time the 
governor had dictated a despatch which was written on a slate book 
(formerly described) by a secretary squatting on the floor of the ves- 
tibule. This state affair concluded. His Excellency retired, and we 
stretched ourselves out in the middle of the room, and half a dozen 
slaves of the governor's household occupied the settees. We soon 
found that sleep was out of the question. The lamps were all burn- 
ing; the servants were talking, and ever and anon walking across the 
floor, which, being oF slips of bamboo, sprang to tlieir steps like a 



UNCOMFORTABLE LODGINGS. 269 

spring board, communicating no very pleasant motion to our beds. 
The novelty of our circumstances, suspicious of the cleanliness of our 
couches, the doubtful honesty of our room-mates were sufficient in 
themselves to keep us awake; but added to these annoyances were 
noises of various kinds. The numerous lank curs, we had seen steal- 
ing about in the afternoon, found a bone of contention, and sought to 
settle their quarrel under the house. The angry growls of the vic- 
tors and the yelping of those put to flight had scarcely died away, 
before a party of melancholy ge-kos assembled on the roof and set up 
a lugubrious song in a stacatto movement. Then some poetic youth 
of Paknam serenaded us for an hour, by the light of the stars, with 
a screeching hautboy, occasionally relieved by the wooings and mew- 
ings of a half dozen crack-voiced feline Romeos and Juliets, imme- 
diately beneath our beds. We bore it for a long time, but at last 
were forced to laugh outright and get up in self-defence. We sat 
down near a window, and, at the same time, enjoyed the pleasant air 
and a cigar. It was long past midnight, yet two or three women were 
seen at different times, stealing across the enclosure with torches in 
their hands, and one came out of his Excellency's room and retired 
with noiseless step. Fairly wearied, we tried " once more to win her 
into morning;" but we scarcely attained to dreamy forgetfulness be- 
fore a great ge-ko pursued several lizards in full run over the floor. 
The attempt was vain. Rather than risk passing such another night, 
at four o'clock, A. M., 1 took leave of my companion, and returned 
with the officer of the boat on board ship, convinced that Paknam is 
the vilest, the dirtiest, the most inhospitable and detestable spot I 
have ever set foot in. 

That afternoon permission was received, and my companion as- 
cended to the city in a canoe; and the day after his arrival, the king, 
according to the usage of the Siamese, sent him a present of eight ti- 
cals to defray the expense of his table. 

I reached the ship about one o'clock, P. M., after a tedious beat 
under a burning sun, and the next day, Piadade, who set off before 
us, came alongside with some articles which had been sent for, seve- 
ral days previously. 

Yet on farther reflection, I think I did the governor injustice; for 
he treated us as he treated himself, and imagined when he gave us 
tea, cigars, food, and a bed, that it was our own fault if we were not 
comfortable and contented. But I doubt whether he was philosopher 
enough to discover that a total want of accordance of habit and sym- 
pathy of feeling rendered his simple efforts to please unavailing. 



270 SIAMESE ETiqUETTE. 



CHAPTER XXy. 



SKETCHES IN SIAM. 



April, 1836. 

"We waited for the boats to carry the mission to the citj, until the 
5th of April, not in the most patient mood^ for we were almost re- 
duced to salt dinners, and had a near prospect of a short allowance 
of water, under sultry skies. Seeing an American brig, which we 
had passed in the strait of Banka, arrive four or five days after us, 
(having spent two weeks at Singapore in the mean time,) and obtain 
permission to proceed at once to the city, was not calculated to sooth 
our impatience, nor change the unfavourable opinion vt^e had already 
formed of Siamese etiquette. Piadade insisted that it would ill assort 
with our dignity, and the friendship existing between the two na- 
tions, for us, whom he styled "king's men in king's ship," to go to 
Bankok in a hurry, before measures had been taken to receive us 
properly. The longer the delay the more should we feel compli- 
mented, because, we might be sure, the time was consumed in pre- 
paring for our reception. However unanswerable and honey-like 
this argument might be to full fed, ambitious christians, most of us 
were ready to sell out his right to Siamese consideration for a roasted 
capon or a speedy departure for Bankok. 

In these waiting days we had no other diversion than to watch the 
mouth of the Meinam, and speculate on the destination of all boats 
which appeared from that quarter. Occasionally a clumsy Chinese 
junk was seen to come out or enter the river, with all the deliberate 
speed their mould and the elements would permit. 

At last the junk, or boat of ceremony, bearing a present of fruit 
and some hundreds of gallons of water, hove in sight. This vessel 
had three masts, and ten staves with red banners waving over the 
stern. The bows and stern were square, and there were two brass 



JUNK OF CEREMONY DECLENSION OF THE PORTUGUESE. 271 

pieces mounted at each, from which, before getting alongside, a sa- 
lute of thirteen guns was fired in honor of the envoy. In the middle 
of the vessel was a platform, raised several inches above the deck, 
furnished with chairs, and protected from the sun by a canvass awn- 
ing. The rigging was of cordage, made entirely of rattan, and as 
pliant as any rope I have seen. The shrouds had no rattlings. From 
not wearing shoes habitually, the Arabs, the Hindoos, Singhalese, Ma- 
lays, Siamese, and other Asiatics, have the great toe separated far- 
ther from that next to it than seems natural to us boot-and-shoe- 
wearing people. The great toe serves them in prehension almost as 
well as the thumbj and, for this reason, their sailors are able to 
mount aloft with as much rapidity and ease without as ours do with 
rattlings. I first observed this at Muscat, in one of the Sultan's 
ships of war. 

The approach of this piece of nautical architecture was showy. 
Her crew, consisting of two- and -thirty soldiers and as many sailors, 
the latter blazing in scarlet uniforms and the former in green. The 
sailors looked more like mutes at a theatre than sons of river or 
ocean. Their jackets, which had bell -muzzle sleeves reaching to 
the elbow, were turned up with white, and buttoned from the hips 
to the throat, and their breeches were embroidered at the knee. 
Their caps of green cloth were fashioned like helmets, and trimmed 
with gilt stripesj a band of red cloth, the top edge cut in points, sur- 
rounded the head. The legs and feet were bare. The officers in 
command of this gaudy crew were not less oddly equipped. We 
w^ere impressed with the notion that old Albuquerque and his fol- 
lowers had risen from their graves, and were now stalking upon 
earth as they were wont to do some three hundred years ago, and we 
could not help remarking that there had been a great change of co- 
lor, and seemingly, if not really, a wonderful declension in courage. 
These worthy gentlemen could boast a Portuguese ancestry, and 
claim nativity in Siam. As other descendants of the Portuguese in 
every part of India, while their bones have changed little in form, the 
color of the skin has become so like that of the natives of the coun- 
tries in which they are found, that they are not readily distinguished. 
Their stature is much diminished, but these changes are not altoge- 
ther attributable to climate. It is remarkable that these Lusitan- 
Asiatics are so degraded, they are employed almost entirely as me- 
nials, or in very subordinate situations. We would not have ex- 
pected, ci priori, that the descendants of the conquerors would have 



272 PORTUGUESE OFFICERS--SET OFF FOR BANKOK. 

SO fallen; their blood has lost its richness, and they only preserve the 
bony configuration and religion of their fathers. 

The chief of the three officers, toothless and sixty, appeared over 
the gangway, * the observed of all observers,' under a green three- 
cornered cocked hat, a black satin coat, charge m[h. gold embroidery 
and white pearl buttons, full pantaloons of red striped silk, sustained 
by a sash round the waist, but without shirt, vest, or shoes. The se- 
cond wore a round hat of white felt, a light blue velvet coat, embroi- 
dered in gold, red silk pantaloons, shoes, stockings, and shirt. The 
third was in similar attire, except that he had a white satin vest, and, 
though he could show no shirt, his neck was buried in a black stock 
of large dimensions. On reaching the quarter-deck, they bowed awk- 
wardly, and spoke almost unintelligibly in a language intended to 
be Portuguese. Where did they get all this costume.^ It was sug- 
gested they bought it from the Bowery theatre after they had ceased 
to represent the spectacle of the "Last Days of Pompeii." 

These people were full of curiosity, and begged what they could. 
One of the soldiers addressed me in very intelligible Latin — '* Inquis 
Latinum, Domine?" I learned from him that the whole corps on 
board the king's junk were christians, and had been educated by the 
Portuguese missionaries. He said all of them might have spoken 
Latin, had they been studious — their ignorance, as is generally the 
case, was their own fault, and I suspect it is not their only one. All 
the hundred jaws were employed masticating arecanut, betel, and to- 
bacco. 

The sun had set when we all embarked, or rather transhipped our- 
selves and baggage to the junk of ceremony. Her sails were hoisted 
slowly, and we were, at last, creeping towards the shore. The sa- 
lute fired by the junk was now returned by the ship, and we went 
off full of spirits and agreeable excitement. We numbered twenty 
officers, several servants, and the band, and found ourselves packed 
pretty closely together. We had scarcely got off from the ship when 
our officers of Albuquerque memory doffed their finery and appeared 
in white jackets. The night was dark. A paper lantern was sus- 
pended among us, and two or three torches dappled the company 
with their flickering light, imparting to tlie picture something of the 
imaginary, or romantic. The wind being against us, it was nine 
o'clock when we got near Paknam, and then we encountered the 
ebb tide. The junk was brought to anchor, and though it rained, 
the officer in command opposed our landing, insisting that it would 



FEAST AT PAKNAM. 273 

be contrary to etiquette, and would, besides, endanger him to expe- 
rience the application of the bamboo. Nevertheless, the commodore 
set his objections at defiance, and, taking two of us in his gig, pulled 
on shore. We had scarcely crossed the rough bank of stones, lighted 
by several torches, before the rain fell in torrents, and we sought 
shelter until it abated. 

We found his Excellency prepared to receive us. A loose robe 
enveloped his whole person, bearing no slight resemblance- to the 
costume represented in biblical pictures, and his apartment was fur- 
bished and dusted into a more respectable appearance than it had 
worn on our last visit. He received us cordiallv, and rej^retted that 
the whole party was not with us. In about a half hour the others 
arrived, in company with Mr. Roberts. In the mean time the go- 
vernor had changed his dress to a heavy purple silk sarong, and a 
dirty orange-colored cashmere shawl 5 and his badges of office were 
placed on a table, consisting of a small salver, cups for holding are- 
canut, tobacco, &c., a small box containing a paste for cleansing the 
mouth, a sort of quiver for cigars, a bowl-shaped spittoon, all of fine 
gold, and a silver tea-kettle, beautifully enamelled, together with a 
gold-hilted sword, in a red velvet scabbard. He gave Mr. Roberts 
a hearty welcome, and then sat himself in the old-fashioned temple 
before mentioned, and began smoking his long pipe; mean while a 
long table was spread for supper, or, as they said, for a feast. It 
proved to be mean in the extreme. The cloth was of coarse muslin, 
the plates were of different sorts and sizes, and the glass of the com- 
monest kind. The knives, forks, and spoons were all of iron, and 
few in number for our party. The materials of the feast were boiled 
chickens, rice, duck-eggs, and roasted pork, all cold. On sitting 
down to eat of this sumptuous fare, (of which Siamese etiquette re- 
quires all distinguished strangers to partake, before visiting the capi- 
tal,) we found the table almost as high as the chin, and it required a 
keen appetite to sustain our wish to comply with the custom. Some 
were compelled to cut their meat with spoons, and others with their 
pocket knives. We had scarcely taken our places, before the hall 
was crowded with naked Siamese, to gratify their curiosity with a 
sight of us. We compared our situation to that of beasts in a mena- 
gerie, and one suggested that " His Excellency ought to charge more 
when the animals w^ere fed." 

Immediately after the feast was cleared away, the governor de- 
manded a list of the presents intended for his Magnificent Majesty, 
but it was refused. The names of all. the officers in the party were 



274 VOYAGE UP THE MEINAM. 

then recorded on a slate-book bj a secretary, to be forwarded to the 
city by an avant courrier. 

The Commodore and Mr. Roberts, by way of distinction, were 
lodged in the temples of the Penates, and the rest of us sought ac- 
commodation on the settees and on the floor, as we best could. The 
night passed more quietly than on my former visit, though the sere- 
nade of dogs, cats, and ge-kos was not wanting. 

We arose at early dawn the following day, and, as there were nei- 
ther towels nor napkins provided, the morning ablutions were finished 
by a general application to the table cloth. A breakfast, composed 
chiefly of the remains of the last night's feast, was quickly de- 
spatched, and we marched to the place of embarkation. I observed, 
vv^hen passing through the bazaar, that the sailors and soldiers of the 
boats of ceremony unhesitatingly helped themselves to fruit and ci- 
gars, without offering remuneration or meeting with resistance. On 
reaching the river bank, we found a native band playing, and a 
crowd of people assembled to see us embark. Three long, narrow 
canoes, each pulling forty oars, and decorated with red banners, tufts 
of white hair, and peacocks' feathers, conveyed us to the junk of 
ceremony, which we thought to be very much more comfortable than 
even the governor's residence itself. After we were on board, the 
canoes were arranged ahead, in a line abreast, and, as it was per- 
fectly calm, began towing us up the river. The oarsmen, all in red 
uniforms, stand behind their oars, and perform by pushing, and keep 
stroke, stamping the right foot in time and in unison with a leader 
who stood in the bows, striking together two pieces of hard wood. 
The rowers were all slaves; they occasionally encouraged each other 
by a sort of chant, or song. Thus led, the procession moved up the 
river, the banks of which are low and green, cheered from time to 
time with the efforts of our own band. Presently, the breeze ruffled 
the glassy surface of the stream, and, with fluttering pennons and 
gay costume, the whole formed a picturesque view every way wor- 
thy a pencil. 

Along the whole course of the Meinam, on both sides, at short in- 
tervals, are built, on posts, the huts of fishermen, almost concealed 
in the luxuriant shrubbery. Near them, were suspended in the 
branches, paper cages and quaint figures, to keep off ghosts and evil 
spirits. Toy wind-mills were rattling away in the gentle breeze, 
placed on a tall bamboo before every door. We saw very few birds. 

The course of the Meinam, literally the Mother of Waters, is very 
serpentine; it has an average depth of four or five fathoms, and is free 



ARRIVAL AT BANKOK. 97^ 

from shoals. Its breadth is not half a mile. The tide, which rises 
and falls, perhaps seven feet, is not regular, ebbing and flooding but 
once in the twenty-four hours. 

Towards midday, our Albuquerque friends found their European 
finery too oppressive, and, as a sort of commentary on the title of 
" boat of ceremony," stripped to the skin before our eyes, and sub- 
stituted for all their gaudy attire a simple sarong. Half way up the 
river, we passed Paklat or ' Cidade Nova,' v/here there is a large for- 
tress, on both sides of the river, which being brilliantly white, con- 
trasts finely with the green shrubbery. Here boats came oft* loaded 
with fruits, as a present, for which our band paid in one of its best 
airs. 

About nine o'clock, P. M., we fancied we were at our journey's 
end. The day had been tedious and sultry, and we were glad to 
escape from our narrow accommodations. But we discovered toour 
great annoyance, that the anchor had been let go through the timidi- 
ty and stupidity of our commander-in-chief. He urged that it was 
dark, the tide against us, many junks in the river, and we had better 
remain on board all night than run any risks; besides, if an accident 
should occur. His Magnificent Majesty would first apply the bamboo 
and then cut off" his head. Finding ourselves only a mile from the 
anchorage, we scolded and threatened and delivered some pretty 
round Portuguese anathemata, which moved the worthy's compassion, 
who felt somewhat relieved of his responsibility by the arrival of Pia- 
dade, and got the anchor up again. The distance was soon passed, 
and after sundry Siamese, Portuguese, and English objurgations, we 
were transported bag and baggage to the shore. We were received 
on a slip by another Albuquerque kind of cavalier, in an embroi- 
dered cocked hat and coat, (who afterwards proved to be a General,) 
and his son, a child often years old, in red, trimmed with gold lace. 
Numerous torches were blazing along the street, which led to the 
quarters, provided for us, at the cost of the king, and where we were 
pleased to enter. The dwelling of the mission, was a pretty exten- 
sive store-house or go-down of two shallow stories. The second one, 
which we occupied, was divided into four rooms, and opened upon a 
broad veranda, accessible from a narrow enclosure in front, by a rude 
ladder or wooden steps. 

Piadade had kindly anticipated our wants, and supper was ready 
to bring upon the table. Bedsteads and beds, furnished with a half 
dozen different sized and shaped pillows, were provided in ample 
numbers. Thev were all new, and sheltered by musquito curtains, 



276 MISSION-HOUSE AT BANKOK. 

for which there was luckily no necessity, and some of them were or- 
namented bv deep borders of satin, embroidered in flos silk. One of 
the bed rooms served as a dining hall, and the veranda as a drawing 
room. Being shut in on all sides, it was almost insufferably hot, the 
thermometer ranging at about 92° F., and it was without ventilation. 
Yet it was the best that could be provided at the time. We were 
convinced of the good intentions of our host, though not precisely 
satisfied with their execution; the first were good, the last we attri- 
buted to ignorance. 

Midnight closed our toils, and we sought to forget in repose all the 
petty grievances that had tended not a little to ruffle our equanimity. 
Our beds were comfortable, and our sleep undisturbed. 

One circumstance would have been sufficient to destroy repose in 
people of delicate nerves. The walls were populous at night with 
varieties of lizards, and serpents were not infrequently seen "draw- 
ing their slow length behind," among the tiles and rafters, composing 
the roof of our abode. Snakes of hideous size and color, were almost 
always to be seen, in the heat of the day, winking their lustrous eyes 
on the sunny side of the trees in the vicinity. Among them was a 
small species of asp, supposed to be the same as that used by Cleo- 
patra for self-destruction. 



CITY OF BANKOK. 9J77 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



SKETCHES IN SIAM. 



Jlpril, 18:36. 

The sun had set some time before we had attained even the out- 
skirts of the capital, and the night was so dark that we could form no 
idea either of its appearance or extent. As we advanced along the 
last two miles of our voyage, nothing presented itself to our view, 
except the dark forms of vessels at anchor, and a few scattering lights 
along shore, and we had become so weary and selfish, that our whole 
attention was taken up with escaping from the boat of ceremony. 
But we were certain that the capital of the Magnificent King of 
Siam, did not impress us, when seen at night, with an idea of its 
grandeur. 

The next day we awoke, strangers in a strange placej certainly 
the strangest I have ever visited, and sallied forth at an early hour 
to gratify our curiosity, in relation to a country of which we had 
heard much. We found the whole entirely new to us. We saw 
nothing which is in common with Christian lands. Like Venice, the 
city seemed to have risen from the waters. Half the population is 
afloat. In Bankok every thing is peculiar, and though every mo- 
ment was employed, I feel sure, we saw a very small part of the 
city, in the time we remained. 

Bankok is built upon the river Meinam, at a point where it is 
about half a mile wide, and perhaps twenty miles in a direct line 
from the sea. It extends about two miles and a half up and down 
the river, and from a mile to a mile and a half on each side of 
it. Bankok proper is on the right or western bank, while that on 
the left, from the palace being there, is named Sia-Yut'hia, but to 
the eye it is all one town. It is irregular in its plan and every 
where intersected by canals. The streets are narrow and dirty. 
The paved walk in the middle is scarcely wide enough for two per- 
sons to walk abreast, the reason for which, according to the Siam- 
ese, is that there are no two of the same rank in the kingdom, 
and etiquette does not permit individuals of different degrees to walk 



278 SAMPANS. 

side by side! Many of the houses are extensive, but the great 'mass 
of them are miserable bamboo huts, without any appearance of com- 
fort. Trees are everywhere numerous, and the frequent * Wats ' 
or Boudhist temples, their gilt and glazed tile roofs and spires, 
sparkling in the sun, give to the city a picturesque appearance, and an 
air of wealth and magnificence. 

Each side of the river is lined with houses, every one a shop, 
built on rafts of bamboo, moored or staked to the banks. The 
fronts are open like verandas, wherein various goods are exposed for 
sale. A row of Chinese junks, from two to six hundred tons each, 
extend for more than two miles, at anchor in the middle of the 
stream, where they often remain for months, retailing their cargoes; 
and though streets, canals, and river are crowded with people and 
boats, there is neither the bustle nor buz of the multitude, which 
would be found in an equally dense population in any christian 
city. From daylight until dark the river presents an animated 
scene. The gondolas of this eastern Venice, called sampans, are of 
every variety of size, from the mere nut shell, to that moved by a 
half dozen paddles; and, there are those of large dimensions, per- 
manently occupied by whole families, along the banks of the canals. 

The better sort of sampan is a light canoe, moved by a half dozen 
or more short paddles, with a covered cabin in the centre, upon the 
floor of which the passenger reclines, and by drawing the curtains 
may be entirely concealed. There are those so small, that we are 
astonished that they are capable of floating under the weight of a 
man, and others again, which are propelled, like the Venitian gon- 
dola, by a single oar, managed in a row-lock, three feet high. The 
sampan of this description is usually skulled by a woman standing 
on the stern, without any other garment than a pair of drawers, 
with the occasional addition of a piece of black crape cast over the 
shoulders. The body is gently bent forward over the oar, and, to 
obtain a sure basis, one foot is placed in advance of the other, while 
the arms, in easy motion, impart speed to the vessel. The attitude 
and movement of these figures are eminently graceful, as they are 
seen threading their way through the mazes of junks and sampans of 
all sizes, which are all day gliding along, from point to point, in 
every direction, and always occupying a very small space. The 
sampans are admirably adapted to the navigation of the canals and 
river, as we soon discovered, when one of our long-oared boats 
moved among them. They were often upset by us; but the Siamese 
always took the mishap in gentleness of spirit, and very quietly 
swam either to the shore, or to regain the sampan. Living so con- 



AMPHIBIOUS CHILD POPULATION. 279 

stantly on the water, they may be said to be a swimming people, 
though I am told they have great dread of the sea. They are seen 
bathing at all times of the day, either swimming, or squatted on the 
veranda, in front of the houses, dipping water out of the river with a 
basin and pouring it over themselves. Not long ago, Bankok pre- 
sented the singular phenomenon of an amphibious infant, that forsook 
the mother's breast, and betook itself to the water on all occasions. 

Luck-loi-nam, literally the child of the waters, swam when she 
was but one year old, and in 1832, when she had attained three 
years of age, was frequently seen swimming in the river. Her mo- 
tions were not like those of other swimmers; she floated without any 
apparent exertion, turning round and round. When not in the 
water, she was cross and discontented, and when taken out cried and 
strove to return; if indulged, she tumbled and rolled about, seem- 
ingly with unalloyed pleasure. Luck-loi-nam, though well formed, 
could neither walk nor speak, but uttered a gurgling, choking sound 
in the throat. Her vision was imperfect, and up to the time men- 
tioned, she had never eaten any thing but her mother's milk. She 
usually applied tor the breast, on being taken out of the river by her 
own consent. The mother of the child of the waters was a fine-look- 
ing woman, and had given birth to four children; two males and two 
females. The two brothers are dead, and the sister, eight or nine 
years of age, was always seen swimming in company, to protect the 
child of the waters against accidents, and give her direction that she 
might not get too near the boats, or the banks of the river. She has 
not been lately seen, and is supposed to be dead. 

The population of Bankok, according to the government census 
of 1828, amounted to 401,300, and is made up, as follows; 

Chinese, 310,000 



Descendants of Chinese, 


50,000 


Cochin Chhiese, - - . - 


1,000 


Cambodians, - - . - 


2,500 


Siamese, = - - . - 


8,000 


Peguans, 


5,000 


Laos people, (old residents,) 


9,000 


Do (new residents,) 


7,000 


Biirraans or Bramas, - - . 


2,000 


Tavoy people, - - - - 


3,000 


Malays, 


3,000 


Christians, 


800 



Total, 401,300 



280 CHINESE RESIDENTS — COMMERCE. 

A tax of about three dollars is levied upon every China-man on 
entering the country, and is afterwards exacted triennially, which 
secures to him the privilege of following any trade or craft, accord- 
ing to his pleasure, and also exempts him from the half yearly servi- 
tude, required by the king from every other oriental stranger resi- 
dent in Siam.* In 1836, the Chinese population had increased to 
four hundred thousand, so that we may safely state, that the city of 
Bankok contains a half a million of inhabitants. 

The Chinese residents, are chiefly from Teo-Chew, a subdivision 
of the Canton province; but numbers from Hainan, Canton and Se- 
ang-Hae, annually visit the place, and, from the manner of conduct- 
ing their commercial voyages, remain there from February, until May 
or June. The number of junks in the river, during that season, is 
from thirty to seventy, each carrying from twenty, to one hundred 
and thirty men. 

Most of the mechanics, agriculturists and tradesmen of Bankok, are 
China-men. They are cheerful and industrious, but, for want of 
other modes of diverting their leisure hours, they are addicted to gam- 
bling and libertinism. The tax on Chinese and other gambling houses 
in the capital, brings a considerable revenue to the government. 

The commerce of Siam with other countries than China is very 
limited, though her internal resources for foreign trade appear to be 
every way ample. Within a few years it has increased with Singa- 
pore, which serves as an entrepot between it and Europe, as well as 
the United States, to a considerable extent. In 1826, a treaty was 
concluded between the English and His Magnificent Majesty, and a 
ratified treaty with our government has just been exchanged. The 
advantages of this treaty, though not immediately apparent, may be 
in future very great. At one time, no less than 2,200 tons of Ame- 
rican shipping were employed in the Siamese trade; but owing to the 
numerous and irregular exactions made in form of duties, presents, 
&c., to the delays incident to the slow mode of conducting business, 
being obliged almost always to make up the cargo by small purchases 
from different individuals, and to the rapid advance in the price of 
sugar when in demand, it dwindled away to nothing, and the com- 
mercial world in the United states, almost lost sight of Siam. The 
Sachem, Captain Coffin, who introduced the Siamese Twins to the 
world, and the Maria Theresa, Captain 0. Taylor, (now at Bankok,) 
are the only American vessels which have entered the Meinam, since 

♦ ToumUn's Nine Months' Residence in Siam, in 1828-9. 



COMMERCE IN ByVNKOK. 281 

1828, a period of eiglit years; and probably the last named vessel 
would not have ventured, had the cornvnander been ignorant of the vi- 
sit of- the Peacock and its object. As will be seen in the sequel, the 
chief obstacles in the way of a profitable trade with Siam, irregular 
and exorbitant charges, have been removed by the provisions of the 
treaty, and under its protection, the commerce may revive in a short 
time, and then the merchants of Bankok may perceive their inte- 
rests in facilitating the business of those who come to buy or sell. 

Siam is too distant for us to send there, only, to purchase her pro- 
ducts, the most of which may be now obtained at Singapore for a 
small advance, and sugar, the staple article, can be obtained muck 
nearer home; but she requires our manufactures to supply her nume- 
rous though wretched population, and on the system of exchange only, 
can we hope any solid advantage from commerce, with so remote a 
country. 

Nations, as well as individuals, are often deeply affected by the in- 
fluence of example, though they may be too proud to acknowledge it, 
and are brought to the admission of principles and of the actions result- 
ing from them, which, without this influence, they would have long 
resisted. It is true, the prejudices of the Asiatics generally, against 
all Christians, are so peculiar and so strong, that example may not 
have so extended an effect with them, as among people of other na- 
tions; nevertheless, it cannot fail to exercise a powerful influence. 
The intercourse between Siam and Cochin China, has been, until the 
present war, very frequent; it is also common between these two coun- 
tries and China, and occasional even with Japan. Should the Sia- 
mese deiive a profitable trade under the provisions of the treaty, it 
will be perceived by their neighbors, and, among commercial nations 
whose acquisitive fiiculties are large and active, to perceive a source 
of emolument, is but a step short of desiring it for themselves. 

The conclusion to be drawn, if these premises be correct, is, that 
this treaty will be the remote means of opening a wide field to Ame- 
rican enterprise, and of new markets for our growing manufactures, 
and the increasing products of our extensive soil. 

The chief merchants of Siam are the king, his ministers, the Chi- 
nese, and old women. They require, from Europe and the United 
States, arms and ammunition; perhaps a few military ornaments, 
coarse cutlery, glass ware, white cotton goods, which should not be 
less than two cubits in width; cotton twist, from No. 20 to SO; Si- 
amese dresses, three yards long by forty inches broad, in star pat- 
terns, on red, green, and blue grounds, which colors should be bright; 
36 



282 REVENUE OF SIAM. 

long ells, red and green; furniture chintz; ladies' cloth, red, yellow, 
green, light purple, and light blue; steel, in small bars, the size of 
nail iron, which, for this market, should be put up in tubs, one hun- 
dred of which are enough at a time, instead of cases. American cot- 
tons are now sought for, though afforded at a higher price, because 
they have proved themselves to be much more durable. There is an 
opening for the introduction of American cottons, through Bankok, 
to the countries lying north of Siam.* 

For the above articles they offer, in exchange, sugars, tin, ivory, 
sappan wood, (^Ccesalpina sappan,) rose wood, rattans, a variety of 
drugs, iron of a superior quality, &c. Sugar, the staple article, is at 
an average price of eight ticals per picul of ISS^lbs., may be put on 
board for about five dollars per hundred: whether it will yield profit 
at this price, after paying freight, home duties, interest, insurance, &c., 
I am not merchant enough to decide. 

Though the duties stipulated for in the treaty may appear high, at 
first sight, $4,275 on a vessel measuring 25 feet beam, they will be 
found not to exceed ten or twelve per cent, on a valuable cargo. 

An estimate of the Siamese revenue and resources of trade may 
be formed from the following tables, made for one year. 

Table exhibiting the Internal Revenue, &c., of Siam, for 
ONE Year, in Bats or Ticals. 

Bats, or Ticals. 
fBankok, 104,900 

I Sia-Yut'hia, 16,000 

Tavern J gang-xang-, 8,000 

licenses. l o • u • a nnn 

I Sun -bun, 4,000 

tKrungtap'han, 4,000 

fBankok, 39,000 

) Sia-Yut'hia, ^ 12,000 

Suri-buri, 1,600 

LBang-xang", 1,600 

Duty on floating- houses, 36,000 

*' on Chinese gambling-houses, 64,000 

" on Siamese «* 58,000 



Bazaars. "( 



Camed over, 349,100 

* For this commercial information I am indebted to Mr. R. Hunter, a commis- 
sion merchant of several years' residence at Bankok, who kindly placed his ma- 
nuscript diaiy in my hands, with permission to extract whatever I might think 
interesting. 



REVENUE OF SIAM. 



283 



Brought forward, 

Revenue from provinces under first minister, 

- " *' •* " second minister, 

" " «« ** third minister, 

** ** judiciary courts of Kromamuang", 

" «« «* «« of tribunal, 

tt tt gQ](j province of Bangtap'han, 180 ticals' weight 

of gold, equal to 
" " gold province of Pipri, 60 ticals' weight of gold, 

equal to 
" " tribute paid by Malays for working gold mines, 

216 ticals' weight of gold,* 

Total, 
Table of Commercial Revenue. 



Bats, or Ticals. 

349,100 

32,000 

24,000 
12,000 

4,800 
8,000 



1,880 

960 

3,456 

436,196 



Articles. 


(Quantities. 


Ticals. 


On Paddy, 


1,696,423 koyans 


, 862,358 


Gardens, 




545,880 


Trees, 




17,800 


Teak wood, 


• 127,000 trees. 


56,000 


Sappan wood, (3 qualities,) 


200,000 piculs. 


84,000 


Cocoanut oil. 


600,000 « 


56,000 


Sugars, (5 qualities,) 


96,000 « 


40,000 


Jacra, 


150,000 jars, 


8,000 


Salt, 


8,000 koyans, 


32,000 


Pepper, 


38,000 piculs, 


23,000 


Cardammums, 


550 « 


5,400 


Bastard do.. 


4,000 « 


16,000 


Stick lac, 


8,000 " 


9,500 


Tin, 


1,200 « 


18,200 


Iron, 


20,000 « 


54,000 


Ivory, 


300 « 


2,500 


Gamboge, (3 qualities,) 


200 « 


1,200 


Rhinoceros' horns, 




1,600 


Deers' do. 


26,000 pairs. 


3,600 


Cows' do. 


200 piculs,-^ 




Buffaloes' do. 


200 *« 




Deers' sinews. 


200 " 


^ 800 


Rhinoceros' hides. 


200 « 


Tigers' bones. 


50 to 60 " 




Buffaloes' hides, in number 


500 ^ 




Cows' do. do. 


100,000 


1,600 



Carried over, 1,839,438 

* Gold is estimated at sixteen times the value of silver. 



284 





TAXES. 






Articles. 


Quantities. 


Ticals. 




Brought forward, 


1,839,438 


Gum Benjamin, 


100] 


piculs. 


400 


Birds' nests, (3 qualities,) 


10 to 12 




32,000 


Dried fish, (3 kinds,) 


79,000 


:: \ 


18,000 


Dried shrimps. 


1,000 


Balachao, 


1,500 




4,600 


Azelu de pao. 


15,000 




8,000 


Breu, 


10,000 




6,000 


Rosewood, 


200,000 


" 


• 1,600 


Damar, 


200,000 bundles, 


5,600 


Rattans, 


200,000 


t( 


5,600 


Casca de pau. 


200,000 


it 


1,600 


Wooden posts, (3 kinds,) 


203,500 1 


n number, 


8,000 


Bamboos, 600,000,000 


(( 


8,000 


Ollas, or Chak leaves, 95,000,000,000 


(( 


8,000 


Firewood, 


Total, 


14,000 




1,960,838 



These tables are derived from the Portuguese residents; and, though 
not complete, nor perfectly accurate, proximative estimates may be 
formed from them. 

The annual tax on cultivated paddy, or rice fields, is levied at the 
rate of \\\vtQfu-angs per square red, oF 130 io^^t square. Being the 
custom of the country, to plant the cane once every three years, su- 
gar plantations pay one tical for the first, and for the two following 
years, two sa-lungs per square rai. The reason assigned for the dif- 
ference is, that the first year's growth is most valuable. A tax of 
one sa-lung per picul, is also levied on the sugar before it is brought 
to market. 

The taxes are separately farmed by the government. The customs 
on wood, ollas or chak leaves, used for thatching, are one-fifth in quan- 
tity. Gardens are taxed per square rai, varying somewhat in pro- 
portion to their productions. Orchards pay according to their num- 
ber of trees and the value of their fruits; on cocoanut and betel trees, 
&c. the tax is one fu-ang for twenty trees; on mango and other valua- 
ble trees, it is from one fu-ang to half a tical per tree. 

The taxes on taverns, or more strictly speaking, tippling shops, and 
on gambling establishments, are farmed to licensed individuals, with- 
out whose permission, no one can sell spirituous liquors or open a 
gambling house without incurring a heavy penalty. Individuals are 



GAMBLING — LOTTERY CURRENCY—COWRIES. 285 

not permitted to play in private, not even beneath their ovv^n roof 
tree, but, to gratify this passion, must repair to some one of the many 
licensed establishments, except at certain periods, when the law is 
suspended. A general permission to gamble, is granted three times 
a year^ three days at the commencement of the Chinese new year; 
three days at the commencement of the Siamese new year, and three 
days at another season. During these periods, all classes may be 
seen, assiduously waiting upon dame fortune's smiles or frowns, read 
in the turning of cards or throwing of the dice. In these privileged 
times, wealth often changes hands; beggars become rich, and the af- 
fluent are sunk to penury. In these times too, taste for play, under 
the influence of an almost universal example, becomes irresistible, and 
when the law again becomes operative, those who have been unlucky, 
resort to licensed tables to repair their shattered fortunes, and those 
who have been fortunate, to increase their gains. The honorable and 
productive avocations of society, are forsaken or much neglected; 
wealth is squandered; intemperance and frequent quarrels ensue, and, 
often under the weight of overwhelming despair, the gambler, as in 
other countries, ends his not yet mature existence by some suicidal 
act, plunging him at once into an eternity, which, from its uncertain 
nature should be to him appalling. 

A species of lottery has been introduced by the Chinese, which has 
attracted much attention, and is much in accordance with the tastes 
of the people. An indefinite number of tickets are sold, upon v/hich 
is written the name of some one of thirty-six titled cards, which the 
purchaser may designate. Once a week one card is turned up, and 
those whose ticket bears the title, win and receive thirty for one, the 
purchaser being at liberty to pay any sum he pleases for the ticket. 

The circulating medium of Siam, consists of silver and cowries 
exclusively; gold is occasionally coined, or rather stamped, but is 
held entirely as a curiosity, and cannot be considered as a part of the 
money system. The cowry shell {Cyprea moneta,) circulates in many 
countries of Asia, but in former times to a much greater extent than 
at present. They were carried to various parts of the East in great 
quantities, from the Maldive islands, where they were fished twice, 
monthly; three days before and three after the new moon. Women 
alone were employed in the fishery. They waded into the sea, waist 
deep, and dug them from the sand; they were then made up into 
packages, each containing 12,000 shells, and thus shipped off to Cey- 
lon, the Ganges, Siam, &c.; but in the Maldive islands, they were 
not current money. 



286 MEASURES AND WEIGHTS. 

The silver pieces, in the form of short bars, doubled on themselves 
and impressed with a small stamp, closely resemble buck-shot and 
bullets. They are ticals or bats, sa-lungs and fu-angs^ all the rest 
of money divisions named in the following table, except the cowries, 
whose value is fluctuating, are imaginary. The tical or bat is the 
money-unit, and, according to the Calcutta assay, weighs 236 grains, 
and is valued at two shillings and sixpence sterling, or about sixty- 
one cents. 

In April, 1836, dollars were at the rate of 150 ticals for the hun- 
dred dollars. 

Siamese Money Table. 

200 Cowries, equal to 1 P'hai-nung. 

2 P'hai-nungs, ** 1 Song-p'hai. 

2 Song-p'hais, ** 1 Fu-ang. 

2 Fu-angs, ** 1 Sa-lung. 

4 Sa-lungs, " 1 Tical, or bat. 

4 Ticals, " 1 Tumlung. 

20 Tumlungs, « 1 Catie. 

100 Caties, « 1 Picul, or 133ilbs. 

The above are also used as measures of weight, whether apothe- 
cary, troy, or avoirdupois. 

Siamese Long Measure. 

12 Fingers' breadth, 1 Span. 

2 Spans, 1 Cubit, = 19| English inches. 

4 Cubits, 1 Fathom, = 6 J English feet. 

20 Fathoms, 1 Sen, = 130 feet. 

400 Sens, 1 yote, = 3 leagues, 271 yards, 8^ feet. 

The only land or square measure is the rai, of 130 English feet. 

Siamese Dry Measure. 

20 K: nan, 1 Tang, or bucket. 

50 Tangs, 1 Ban. 

2 Bans, 1 Kian, or Koyan. 

One kindn is equal to about 1^ English pints. Liquids are also 
measured by this table. Oil, however, is sometimes sold by weight. 

The measure of time is not less singular than any other. The 
time-keeper, like that of the Hindoos, consists of a cup, with an aper- 
ture in the bottom, floating in a vessel of water, which sinks at the 
termination of each watch. 



divisions of time. " 287 

Siamese Time Measure. 

10 Ak-san, 1 Pran. 

6 Prans, 1 Put. 

15 Puts, 1 B^t, or yVofanliour. 

10 Bat, 1 Turn, or hour of the night, 

3 Turn, 1 Yam. 

4 Yam, 1 K'hun, or night. 
12 Mong-, (hour of the day,) 1 Wan, or day. 

7 Wan, 1 Kwap-a: tit, or week. 
29 and 30 Wan, 1 Duan, or month. 

12 Duan, 1 Pi, or year. 

12 Pi, 1 Cycle. 

The day commences at sunrise. The forenoon is divided into six 
watches, and the afternoon, until sunset, into the same number. 
From sunset until midnight includes two watches, and from midnight 
till morning the same number. In Siamese, the day watches are 
called Mong, and those of the night. Turn. 

The division of time into weeks of seven days was probably de- 
rived from the Portuguese. They are named, in Siamese, as fol- 
lows: — 

Wan-a. thit, (literally day of the sun,) Sunday. 

Wan-chan, (moon-day,) Monday. 

Wang'-ang'-khan, Tuesday. 

Wan-put, Wednesday. 

Wan-pra-hat, Thursday. 

Wan-suk, Friday. 

Wan-sou, Saturday. 

The Siamese reckon 29 and SO days to the months, alternately, 
which, with the exception of the first two, are numbered. This gives 
their year 354 days^ but they complete the measure by adding an in- 
tercalary month every third year, and omit reckoning three or four 
days, as the case may be, before the commencement of each new 
year. The month is divided into the bright and dark halves, corre- 
sponding to the increase and wane of the moon. 

The Siamese year is divided into three seasons^ the liot seasorij 
from the full moon in February to the full moon in June; the rainy 
season, from the full moon of June to the full moon of October, the 
remaining time being the cool season. The new year commences 
after the close of the fifth month, which, in 1836, falls on the 15th of 
April. 

The great division of time is into two cycles, the greater of sixty, 
and the lesser of twelve years. The last is said to be employed for 



288 EXTENT OF THE SIAMESE EMPIRE. 

astrological purposes, in casting nativities, &c. The names of the 
years are, nevertheless, inserted in all important papers; they are 
named after different animals, as follows: — 

1st. Chuat, or year of the Rat. 7th. M: Mia, or year of the Horse. 



2nd. 


Ch-lu, 




Cow. 


8th. M: Me, " 


Goat. 


3d. 


Khan, 




Tiger. 


9th. Wak, (1836) « 


Monkey. 


4th. 


Th6, 




Rabbit. 


10th. R: ka, « 


Cock. 


5th. 


M: rong, 




Dragon. 


11th. Cha, « 


Dog. 


6th. 


M: Seng-, 




Serpent. 


12th. Kun, " 


Hog. 



In dates of letters, &c., the Siamese mention, first, the day of the 
week, then the evening or morning of the day of the month, the in- 
crease or wane of the moon, and the name and number of the year. 
In all important documents, the year of the Siamese era is also in- 
serted. The present year, (1836,) in their phraseology, is the 11 97111 
from the commencement of the magnificent kingdom of Thai.* 

The Siamese have two eras, a sacred and a popular one; the for- 
mer, used by the Talapoins in all matters relating to religion, dates 
from the death of Guatama; the latter was introduced in commemo- 
ration of the introduction of the worship of Guatama into Siam, which 
happened in the 1181st year of the sacred epoch, corresponding with 
the A. D. 638, so that the God of Siam has been dead 2379 years.t 

Of the precise extent of the Siamese empire we have no certain in- 
formation; and, from the frequent acquisition of territory, by con- 
quest, it is not easy to ascertain what are its precise boundaries. 
Crawfurd places its extreme western limit, including some desert 
islands in the bay of Bengal, in the meridian of 97° 50' east of Green- 
wich, and the eastern limit in about the 105th. The northern bounda- 
ry is under the twenty-third, and the southern under the fifth degree 
of north latitude, that is, on the west, or Malay side of the gulf. Mr. 
Crawfurd commits a glaring error in placing the southern boundary 
on the Cambodian side, " in about the same parallel " as that on the 
side of the Malay peninsula. The island of Pulo Oby, at the southern 
extremity of Cambodia, is situated in 8° 25' north; so that, even if 
the Siamese possessions include that island, there is a difference of 
three and a half degrees of latitude — a space of open sea, claimed in 
vain for Siam. The area of the whole country is estimated at 190,000 
geographical miles, including, besides Siam proper, Laos on the north, 
a part of Cambodia, and a large portion of the Malay peninsula. 

* For the above tables of weight and measure I am indebted to the kindness 
of Missionary Charles Robinson. 

t Journal of an Embassy from tlie Governor-General of India to the Courts of 
Siam and Cochin China, by John Crawfurd, &c. Sec, quarto. London, 1828. 



king's titles — GOVERNMENT. 289 

Except in the vicinity of Bankok, the country is mountainous and 
well watered. The soil is fertile, abounding in fruits, dye woods, 
medicinal gums and timber. The teak, so useful in ship building, 
grows in great abundance and of an excellent quality. The total 
population of the empire, according to Mr. Crawfurd, is 2,790,500. 

The government is a despotism of the most absolute kind. The 
king is the god, the law of the land, and his name is known only to 
few, that it may not be taken in vain. He is mentioned by several 
epithets which are considered peculiarly soft and flattering^ as " the 
sacred Lord of Heads" — -'* the sacred Lord of Lives" — " tlie Owner 
of All"— ''Lord of the White Elephants"—" Most exalted Lord, 
infallible and infinitely powerful." Even the members of his body 
are designated in adulatory terms; his feet, hands, nose, ears and 
eyes are never mentioned without the prefix of Lord, or sacred Lord. 
Every thing belonging to or attached to his majesty's person is also 
styled golden. To visit him, is to come to his magnificent majesty's 
golden feet — to speak in his golden ear, &c. 

The country is divided into districts; each one is governed by a 
minister, appointed by the king, aided by a governor and other sub- 
ordinate officers; and the more distant provinces are under viceroys 
or rajahs. There appears to be no written law; at least, there is 
none observed, the will or whim of the officer being often decisive. 

All the people, with the exception of the Chinese, European and 
American residents, are virtually slaves, or in a state of slavery. 
The officers at the head of sub-divisions of districts require them to 
labor on public works, one month out of every three or four, accord- 
ing to official pleasure, in building temples, junks, roads or any thing- 
else; which requisition is termed, " a call to public business." If a 
superior officer be engaged in any work, he calls upon one under him 
to furnish a number of men, greater or less according to circum- 
stances, to labor one month; when this term has expired, he calls on 
another, for an equal quota, and so continues till the job be accom- 
plished. The laborers support themselves and their families, and 
receive no compensation for their public services, except the glorious 
privilege of living in Siam or Thai, literally the "Free Country." 
We may almost say with Paudeen O'Rafferty, " They work for no- 
thing and live upon less," content to be slaves as long they entertain 
the name of being free. 

A number of people of various countries, are held in perpetual 
bondage, including those who are taken in war, and those who are 
so unfortunate as to be in debt, because they have no hope of libera- 
37 



290 RELIGION AND PRIESTS. 

tion unless some friend step forward and satisfy the claim against 
them. Debtors are allowed no compensation for their services, but, 
on the contrary, are charged for food, clothing, medical attendance, 
&c., so that the original debt is constantly increasing. 

Except in case of debt, the Chinese are exempted from laboring 
on public works, by paying the triennial tax of four and a half 
ticals, before mentioned. Some say this tax is collected yearly. 

The religion of Siam is that of Boudha. The belief is, that after 
death the soul transmigrates through animals of the inferior classes, 
in gradation according to the good or evil the individual has done in 
this world, until it arrives, through meritorious deeds, to, the condi- 
tion of supreme beatitude, which is the state of nonentity. Every 
animal is animated by some human soul, and hence the general re- 
spect for life. Though the Siamese will not kill an animal, they will 
generally eat of its flesh, because the sin lies only in driving the soul 
from its temporary abode. 

The talapoins or priests, supposed to number at least one hundred 
thousand, are maintained by daily contributions of rice, &c., from the 
people, and annual presents from the king, consisting of money and 
yellow cloth for their robes. At funerals they often receive valuable 
presents. They assemble daily in the wats or temples, and repeat 
prayers which they do not understand — not an unfrequent occurrence 
in other countries — because they are in the Bali language, which they 
do not generally comprehend. Not more than ten in the whole king- 
dom, it is said, are capable of reading, understandingly, the sacred 
books, which are all in this language. They relieve the people from 
all devotional exercises and holy acts, except that of daily bestowing 
upon themselves boiled rice and other little offerings. For three 
months of his life, every Siamese is obliged to be a talapoin, and they 
generally assume the yellow robe at twenty years of age. They may 
doff this beggar's life when it suits them after the term has expired j 
but if they take up the robe a second time, it must be for life. The 
usual number in the capital is about twenty thousand, varying with 
the price of rice, and provisions^ prosperous agriculture, abundant 
crops, making the fruits of the soil cheap, detracts from the worship 
of the great Boudha, distinguished by being sixty-eight feet long, and 
having all his fingers and toes of the same length. 

The talapoins are of difiierent grades or classes, and are presided 
over by one, whom, from the nature of his office, we may in common 
parlance term the Pope. He has other priests below him, answering 
to the cardinals, archbishops, bishops and other dignitaries of the 



PRINCES OF SIAM. 291 

church of Rome. The whole sjstein, including the monastic and 
beggarly lives of the churchmen, bears a strong resemblance to the 
Roman catholic institution. 

The Wilts or temples are numerous, costly and many of them su- 
perbly magnificent. They occupy the best situations in the kingdom. 
They are the residences of the priests, and the places of education for 
all male Siamese. 

The people seldom visit the wats, nor do they ever perform any act 
of worship. They as well as the priests are ever ready to acknow- 
ledge that Boudha died long, long since; but they believe there will 
be another incarnation of the deity, and that all his fingers and toes 
will be of the same length. They are anxiously expecting such a 
person; and for this reason, perhaps, may feel more curiosity to see 
the foot than the face of the stranger. These being the marks by 
which his incarnation is to be known, it is said, that Boudha, before 
his death, caused some pattern statues of himself to be made, that 
he might be the more readily recognised on his second coming. For 
this reason, all images of him in Siam are made after this fashion. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



SKETCHES IN SIAM. 



Jlpril, 1836. 

The morning after our arrival, we visited His Highness the prince 
Momfanoi, literally, " Prince of Heaven, Junior." He is also called 
Chawfanoi, the ultimate syllable signifying the younger. He is half 
brother to the king, and in truth, rightful heir to the throne, which, 
on the late king's death, his present Magnificent Majesty usurped, 
and afterwards proposed to create Chawfaya, the elder brother of the 
prince and legitimate successor, second king; but he scorned the 
proposal, and, declaring that he would never bend to, nor do homage 
to the usurper, assumed the yellow robe of the Talapoins for life; by 



f 

292 SUCCESSION TO THE THRONE VISIT TO MOMFANOI. 

this means he is enabled to keep his word, because they are ex- 
cused from all the slavish ceremonies of Siamese etiquette, and in 
the presence of the higher grades, the king himself appears upon his 
elbows and knees. On the refusal of Chawfaja, an uncle of the 
reigning monarch was appointed second king; but since his death, 
which occurred about three years since, no successor has been 
named to this office, and it is asserted that His Majesty will not 
make another second king, because he is entitled, according to Siam- 
ese custom, to one-third of the revenue of the empire. 

Chawfaya leads a very holy life, measured by the Siamese cri- 
terion of sanctity, and enjoys a rank equal to that of a bishop. His 
assumption of the yellow robe a second time, makes Momfanoi the 
legitimate heir; but his ascent to the throne is not absolutely certain. 
The king has the power of naming his successor from among his 
lawful heirs. The reigning monarch, though he possesses more 
than three hundred wives, has no children living, legitimate 
enough to wear the crown; and, since the death of his lawful son, 
Prince Momfanoi has " crept into favor," and rumor states, he is 
about being affianced to His Magnificent Majesty's favorite daughter, 
notwithstanding that he has already nine wives. If this report prove 
true, there is no doubt but he will succeed to the throne; es mejor 
caer en gracia que ser gracioso. 

Being very popular and full of enterprise and military spirit, the 
prince has been regarded with a jealous eye, or at least with surveil- 
lance. This state of things makes him very cautious and fearful of 
thwarting any of His Magnificent Majesty's views. Therefore, he 
seldom goes abroad by day, but goes about, as he says good humor- 
edly, " like a thief at night." He makes frequent visits to the 
palace after sunset, the time selected by the king to receive his seve- 
ral ministers to hear their reports, after the cares of the day are 
done. 

We found his Highness on board of his barque, where he gave us 
a hearty welcome. The size of this vessel is about two hundred tons, 
and is somewhat in the European style; but, having been at first in- 
tended to be a junk, and then changing the plan after the work was 
well advanced, she draws more water forward than aft. He is now 
fitting her out with the aid of three English sailors in his employ- 
ment, and so far, every thing is neat and well finished. 

Instead of the costume described, when the prince visited the 
Peacock, he wore nothing but a heavy silk sarong or waist cloth. 
He ushered us into his cabin, where he offered tea and cigars. His 



THE ROYAL ADELAIDE THE PALACE. 293 

numerous attendants, all apparently on the familiar footing of com- 
panions, were resting on their elbows and knees around him, chew- 
ing arecanut, which His Highness does not use. He had two beau- 
tiful parrots from Borneo, of which he seemed to be very fond. We 
accompanied him over the vessel, and found every thing going for- 
ward actively. The workmen were generally seated on the deck, 
and, therefore, were not under the necessity of desisting from their 
labors, as would have been the case had they been standing. The 
prince himself took the gouge from the hands of a mechanic, and, 
squatting down, began to apply it Math skill, to a piece of wood 
which was turned by a man pulling a cord, passed about it like 
the string of a drill-bow, the ends of the wood revolving on points 
like those in the frame of a turning lathe. While observing these 
things, we heard a shout or huzza from a hundred voices on the river, 
raised in a long canoe-like boat, pulling a hundred oars. The rowers 
were standing behind the oars, loudly marking time with the right 
foot, while one stood in the bows, striking together two pieces of 
bamboo, as a guide to their simultaneous eiforts. The boat and crew 
belonged to the prince, who exercises them daily in this manner, 
which explained the salutation we had just heard. He has several 
thousand men he thus trains, or to the use of small arms daily. He 
delights in military affairs, but for their sake does not omit any op- 
portunity for acquiring general knowledge. On one occasion he bor- 
rowed our drummer to teach his own our rolls, calls, &c., and on 
another was very particular in having explained to him the object of 
having lightning rods in ships. The day afterwards we found his 
armorer hard at work, making one for this vessel. He has called 
the barque, the *' Royal Adelaidei'' and with his own hand, has 
painted the name in English characters, on a rack for small arms, at 
the after-hatch. His taste for painting is displayed in several places; 
a large chest in the cabin is marked on the front with his own 
name, T. Momfanoi, and he showed us several of his drawings. 

The vessel was lying about ten yards from the shore, in front of 
his palace, which has the external appearance of a fort. The walls 
are snowy white and surmounted by embrasures for guns. 

We accompanied the prince on shore, and as we walked to the 
palace gate, every native we met fell on his face till Momfanoi had 
passed. Within the walls we found, every where, evidence of the 
master's tastes. A number of people, male and female, were at 
work, some twisting or * laying-up ' rope, and others at various occu- 
pations. Several of both sexes had chains on the arms and legs. 



294 



PALACE YARD — KHON PAA. 



and their naked backs bore recent marks of the bamboo. It was the 
first time I had seen women in chains, and I felt a sudden recoil of 
mind at the sight, of mingled disgust and pity, and perhaps, a desire 
that the J should be at once free; but on reflection, I suppose it was 
correct, for they are not of the same comparative feebleness of body 
as in christian lands. 

Before entering his dwelling, Momfanoi led us to see his pets; a large 
baboon, a half dozen beautiful deer, a pair of large black bears from 
Borneo, with a white stripe over the fore part of each shoulder; they 
were tame and playful; and a large cassowary from New Holland, so 
tame as to eat from one's hand, was running about at liberty. He 
now called our attention to a variety of parrots and krokotoas, in the 
corridor or veranda, surrounding the house; and then led us to his 
stables to see his fine stud of horses, and thence, to look at several 
storks, jungle fowls in cages, and a half dozen asses and monkeys. 
He had ordered three or four alligators to be brought from beneath 
the stable in the mean time, and their jaws to be secured, that we 
might examine them without risk. 

In another part of the court or area, were field pieces, and guns of 
various kinds and calibers, ships' spars, &c., neatly arranged beneath 
a shed. He had numerous questions to ask about every thing he ex- 
hibited, and was never satisfied till he felt sure that he clearly un- 
derstood the answers given to him. 

He now led us into the house, saying, *' Gentlemen, you are wel- 
come — I am glad to see you." The interior is lofty, though but one 
story, and is divided into three apartments by two screens, which do 
not reach the ceiling. The centre apartment was furnished in the 
Anglo- Asiatic style, and as neatly as any house I have seen in India. 
On a table, near a sofa, at one end of this drawing-room, were vio- 
lins, flutes, and a flageolet, upon which instruments His Highness 
performs. The adjoining apartment was filled as a study, furnished 
with a small collection of English books, a fine barometer, &c. A 
small room communicating with it, is arranged as a private museum, ' 
in which there are many fine specimens of natural history; quadru- 
peds, birds, reptiles, &c., all preserved and set up by himself. 

Among the strange animals belonging to Siam, there is one described 
under the name of Khon Paa, which belongs to the known genus of 
natural history. This animal has been seen by the prince and hun- 
dreds of others, yet we must confess, we are inclined to doubt the 
accuracy of description. The Khon Paa resembles man; it is five 
feet high, walks erect, has no knee joints, and runs faster than a 



ELEPHANT-SWORD LAOS ORGAN. 295 

horse. Should he accidentally fall, he is forced to crawl to a tree or 
something else, by which he again raises himself on his feet. His 
skin is as transparent as a China horn lantern; his entrails are dis- 
tinctly seen through it, and his abdomen shines like a looking-glass — 
credit qui vult, non ego. Under the superstitious notion, that the pre- 
sence of the animal in Bankok was unlucky, his owners were bam- 
booed, and all their property was confiscated by the king for bring- 
ing him there. This treatment caused so much terror, that no one 
has since ventured to bring a specimen of the beast from his native 
lurking places. 

When we returned from the museum to the drawing-room, the 
prince ordered wine, Port and Madeira, which were excellent, and 
cigars of Siamese manufacture. 

So gracefully did he do the honors of his house, in spite of his being 
nearly naked, no one would hesitate to pronounce that Natuie had 
stamped him — gentleman, lie gave his attentions equally to all his 
guests, asked questions on almost every subject, and, when the an- 
swers were not perfectly clear, always repeated his inquiries, and on 
two or three disputed points, referred to books in the library to sup- 
port his opinions. 

He showed us the sword, used by the Siamese v/hen they fight on 
elephants, which one might mistake for a spear. The handle was four 
feet long, of fine heavy wood, and perfectly straight, having a screw 
joint in the middle to make it more portable. The blade was one- 
edged, two feet long and gently curved; the guard was a disc set 
with gems, and the scabbard was enamelled. Such an instrument, 
in a bold determined hand, might be used with the effects of a scythe, 
A musical instrument, invented in Laos, the country to the north 
of Siam proper, was next exhibited. It consists of fourteen bamboos 
a half inch in diameter, and from eight to twelve feet long, placed in 
two parallel rows, containing seven each. The barrels or tubes are 
of graduated lengths, like those of an organ, and from the resemblance 
to that instrument, this might be termed the Laos organ. About two 
feet from the square end, the tubes pass through a short cylinder of 
wood, at right angles, and about three inches above it, each tube is 
pierced by a small hole, to which a finger is applied when playing. 
The player holds the instrument between the palms, and blows into 
the open end of the cylinder. 

We requested that some of his people would play for us. " Wow,'^ 
exclaimed the prince in his usual manner of expressing surprise,. 



296 MUSIC ^DINNER ANTs' EGGS EASTERN LUXURY. 

" Wow — I will play for you myself," and, at once, calling an old man 
who was resting a la Siamese, took the instrument between his palms. 
The old man crawled close up to the Prince's feet, and sitting a la 
Turque, looked up into his face, while his Highness played a showy 
interlude. The minstrel shut his eyes, and turning his withered 
countenance heavenward, began singing a melancholy air to his mas- 
ter's accompaniment. We were surprised at the power of the in- 
strument, and much pleased with the performance. 

He had no sooner ended his song, than the old man began to move 
back to his former station, but a word detained him at his master's 
feet. "Now," said the prince, "I will give you another kind of 
tune," and at once struck up an air which might have been mistaken 
for Scotch, had we not been assured that it was Siamese. The min- 
strel gathered confidence from the music, and sang with much spirit 
and better effect than at first. 

When we took leave, he detained some of us to dine; and in the 
mean time entertained the company by showing them several Siamese 
curiosities, and conversing on all subjects. About three o'clock P. M. 
the table was spread in the Anglo-Asiatic style, — a mixture of Eng- 
lish comfort and Eastern show; — the dinner was remarkable for the 
variety and exquisite flavor of the curries. Among them, was one 
consisting of ants' eggs, a costly and much esteemed luxury of Siam. 
They are not larger than grains of sand, and, to a palate unaccustomed 
to them, not particularly savory — they are almost tasteless. Besides 
being curried, they are brought to table, rolled in green leaves, min- 
gled with shreds or very fine slices of fat pork. Here was seen an 
ever-to-be-remembered luxury of the East. Two slaves stood waving 
fans behind the Prince's chair, and many other attendants were 
crouched upon elbows and knees around the room, to whom he occa- 
sionally translated such parts of the conversation as he thought would 
interest them. As he thus sat, conversing cheerfully, circulating his 
choice wines, accurately cooled, and entertaining his guests, a slave 
was beneath the table, busily occupied the while, scratching His 
Highness' naked shins. 

On another occasion we visited the Prince at night, on board of 
the Royal Adelaide, which at present seems to be his hobby. We 
were no sooner on the deck, than he exclaimed, " Wow — I am glad 
to see you; walk into the cabin." There we found him with several 
of his attendants. He showed us an American newspaper, which 
contained a list of the officers of the Peacock, and the announcement 



PHRENOLGY — CHARACTER OF MOMFANOI. 297 

of the then projected voyage to Siam. He had had the newspaper 
six months, but never had communicated the news to the king. He 
laughed heartily when he related the anecdote. 

Among other subjects that of phrenology was mentioned, and I 
proposed to illustrate its principles by the examination of some of 
the heads of his attendants. This was agreed to, although there is 
a strong prejudice existing against putting the hand on the head of 
a Siamese. In relation to this point, there is an anecdote told of 
the P'hra Klang. When the British Envoy from the government of 
India was here in 1822, he resided in the second story of a house; 
to avoid the ill luck and disgrace of having any body for a moment 
actually over his head, the worthy P'hra Klang, a man of some three 
or four hundred pounds substance, was in the habit of entering the 
Ambassador's apartments through a window, by a ladder placed 
against the outside of the building. 

As the Siamese almost invariably burn the dead, it is almost im- 
possible to procure a skull fur phrenological comparison. I there- 
fore determined to obtain the measure of some of them, and to do 
so, excited their curiosity, to lull the prejudice above mentioned. I 
was lucky in guessing the predominant traits of those who submitted 
to examination. One of them was a brother to the second P'hra 
Klang, and, according to the Prince, a gentleman of pure blood. 
When the character given by me was interpreted to him, he seemed 
for a moment stupid with amazement^ then seizing my hand, said, 
•* You have told me so much that I conceived impossible for you to 
know, there is one thing more, I entreat you to tell me. How long 
have I got to live?" At this the prince and all of us laughed. He 
looked as grave as though he expected to hear me name the day of 
. his death. 

Momfanoi said he would submit his own head to examination at 
some other time in private; but no other opportunity occurred. 

The character of the Prince Momfanoi might be deduced from 
what has been already said. He is docile, active, determined, and 
considering he is of a race that has taken scarcely a step to emerge 
from ignorance and barbarism, he is liberal-minded and in a great 
degree free from the many prejudices, common to his countrymen. 
His manners are easy, but are rather of the kind v^hich charac- 
terize naval officers, than the carpet knights of royal courts. Pos- 
sessing eminent qualities and perceptive powers, fitting him for a 
high and useful station, it must be a subject of regret to all philan- 



298 WHITE APE. 

thropists, if he be not nominated successor to the^ throne of " the 
free." The English language he acquired from the American mis- 
sionaries, and, delighting to diffuse the knowledge he acquires, he has 
already taught one of his slaves, a lad of sixteen or seventeen, to 
speak it intelligibly. Whenever he hears any thing novel, he im- 
mediately communicates it to his attendants, who always listen atten- 
tively to whatever he says. This disposition to communicate infor- 
mation is so great, as to impart a peurile cast to his whole character, 
which is increased by the promptitude with which he appears ready to 
undertake or to execute any plan that squares with his fancy. On one 
occasion he was asked whether it were possible to procure a white 
monkey. *'I don't know that — it is a rare animal — I have a white 
ape." At this moment he was interrupted, and the conversation took 
another turn. At the expiration of a few minutes, though it was 
night and we were on board the Hoyal Adelaide, the white ape was 
brought in. By caudle light it appeared quite white and woolly like 
a sheep, but in daylight the color is yellowish. The face, the palms 
and soles are black, and the eyes are of a very dark chestnut color, 
or what might be termed, without impropriety, black. It is of the 
sort designated as the long armed ape| the arm from the shoulder to the 
end of the middle finger, of this specimen, measured nineteen inches, 
and the whole height, when erect, was twenty -three inches. 

The animal was for some time alive on board of the Peacock^ it was 
grave and disposed to sleep a great deal; the stuffed specimen is now 
in the collection at the academy of Natural Sciences of Philadel- 
phia. 

In the event of Momfanoi ascending the throne, great changes wall 
no doubt be effected in Siam. Improvements in every branch of use- 
ful industry may be anticipated; education will become more general, 
liberal ideas will be diff'used; our missionaries will derive more bene- 
ficial results from their labors; Christianity will be established, and, 
last though not least to some of the community, our commercial treaty 
will be worth a great deal to our country. In these things, the Prince 
will, in all probability, be the leader, and the people will follow — 
qualis rex talis grex — 

"For princes are the glass, the school, the book • 
Where subjects eyes do learn, do read, do look." 

We do not imagine that all these will be accomplished, but only be- 



PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE SIAMESE. 299 

lieve that an impulse will be given by his example, which, in the 
course of time, must lead to the result we predict. 

The Siamese belong to that variety of the human species which 
writers on the subject denominate the Mongol. Their average height, 
according to the measure of Mr. Crawfurd, is five feet two inches, 
which I suspect to be near the truth, from the few to whom I have 
applied the rule. The lower limbs are stout and well formed; the 
body is long, and hence the figure is not graceful. The shoulders 
are broad, and the muscles of the chest are w^ell developed. The 
neck is short and the head is in fair proportion. The hands are large, 
and the complexion of a dark olive, but not jetty. Among females 
of the higher classes, who pass their time mostly within the harem of 
their lords, the skin is of a very much lighter hue; in some instances 
it might be described as a very dark brunette. The forehead is nar- 
row at the superior part, the face, between the cheek bones broad, 
and the chin is, again, narrow, so that the whole contour is rather lo- 
zenge-shaped than oval. The eyes are remarkable for the upper lid 
being extended below the under one, at the corner next to the nose, 
but it is not elongated like that organ in the Chinese or Tartar races. 
The eyes are dark, or black, and the white is dirty, or of a yellow- 
ish tint. The nostrils are broad, but the nose is not flattened, like 
that of the African. The mouth is not well formed, the lips project- 
ing slightly; and it is always disfigured, according to our notions of 
beauty, by the universal and disgusting habit of chewing arecanut. 
The hair is jet black, renitent, and coarse, almost bristly, and is 
worn in a tuft on top of the head, about four inches in diameter, the 
rest being shaved, or clipped very close. A few scattering hairs, 
which scarcely merit the name of beard, grow upon the chin and up- 
per lip, and these they customarily pluck out. 

The occipital portion of the head is nearly vertical, and, compared 
with the anterior and sincipital divisions, very small; and I remarked, 
what I have not seen in any other than in some ancient Peruvian 
skulls from Pachacamac, that the lateral halves of the head are not 
symmetrical. In the region of firmness, the skull is very prominent; 
this is remarkably true of the talapoins. 

The following measurements, with callipers, of four purely Siamese 
heads, may convey a more definite idea than any description I caa 
give. 



SOG 



MEASUREMENT OE SIAMESE HEADS — SHUTTLECOCK. 



H 


5i 


5i 


5i 


6 


6 


6 


5^ 


7 


7i 


7i 


6f 


5 


4| 


4| 


5 


4| 


4| 


4* 


4f 


H 


5i 


5* 


5* 


H 


4| 


5 


4| 


n 


3 


2| 


2| 


^ 


5 


4* 


4f 


3i 


2| 


3 


2 


5f 


5| 


H 


5i 


59° 


67° 


67° 


59° 



Inches 
Between openings of external ears, - . - - 
parietal protuberances, - _ - . 

root of nose and occiput, or antero-posterior diam. 
the temporal fossae, ----- 
the external angles of the eyes, - - - 

the cheek bones, 

the angles of the jaws, - - - . 

From the incisors to root of nose, - - - - 

the chin to root of nose, - - . - - 

root of nose to the crineal line, - - - . 

the ear to the sagittal suture, - - - - 

Facial angle, - - 

Though active, the Siamese are not a warlike people. The only 
athletic exercises I have seen them practice, in my short sojourn, 
were rowing, and playing shuttle-cock with the feet. 

A half dozen were standing in a circle of about thirty feet in di- 
ameter, equidistant from each other. The shuttlecock, or bird, was 
a piece of leather, with numerous feathers stuck round it, which was 
kept flying from side to side, struck only by the sole or knee. I have 
never seen a more graceful exercise, nor one requiring more activity 
and suppleness of limb. 

The Siamese, like all Asiatics of low latitudes, are disposed to in- 
dolence, and to the indulgence of the animal propensities, where 
these do not contravene their religious notions, to which, however, 
they are not scrupulously wedded. They possess an inordinate self- 
esteem which places them above all nations, except the Chinese, whom 
they acknowledge to be superior, and to whom they pay occasional 
tribute, and the Burmahs, whom they rank as their equals. All their 
superfluous wealth they devote to the building of temples, to obtain 
what they esteem the prospective benefit of their souls. They are 
mean, rapacious, and cruel, and never betray any of that high toned 
generosity of feeling which wins our admiration or demands our re- 
spect. In proof of their cruelty, we have only to adduce their prac- 
tice of enslaving those taken in war, without regard either to age or 
sex; and their wantonly barbarous treatment of the unfortunate king 
of Laos, and his family, who were brought to Bankok in a cage, ex- 
hibited like criminals, and exposed to the rudeness of an ignorant 
and savage populace.* They are suspicious, vaccilating, and pro- 
crastinating, and destitute of those principles of honor which give 
stability to society in the christian world; the law which consigns the 



* Gutzlaff 's Voyages. Toumlin's Residence in Siam, 
China and the neighboring countries. 



Abeel's residence in 



MORAL CHARACTER OF THE SIAMESE. 301 

person of the debtor to slavery and stripes, at the will of the creditor, 
has its origin in these traits of character. Cringing and servile to 
their superiors, in the extreme, they are arrogant, haughty, and ty- 
rannical in re,Q:ard to those who are below them in rank. Though 
humble, to the dust, to their great men, in our presence, and with 
whom our intercourse was on terms of perfect equality, when no Si- 
amese of distinction was present, they conducted themselves towards 
us with a hauteur bordering on insolence. They never manifested 
the slightest sign of respect, but crowded upon us at all times, when 
not kept off by reproof, or by forcible means; and, had we not been 
looked on somewhat in the light of the king's guests, I question whe- 
ther our treatment, generally, would have been bearable, unless the 
liope of gaining something from us had purchased a more seemly en- 
tertainment. They were constantly begging for whatever they saw, 
with most shameless effrontery, not in the least abashed by the most 
contemptuous refusal. 

Their virtues and their vices are venal; the services of the judge 
and the assassin are equally purchasable at a very moderate price, 
but will always be sold to the highest bidder of the contending par- 
ties, and they deem themselves fortunate, if by any chance they ob- 
tain fees from both sides. 

The only commendable quality of the Siamese character, so far as 
I could learn, is their filial respect, which is kept up through life 
with all the punctilious exactness which characterizes it in infancy. 
The son never stands in the presence of either parent, nor assumes 
a seat on a level with his father. Even his Magnificent Majesty 
himself, once a month, humiliates himself and appears before his 
mother on his knees and elbows. The queen dowager and the chief 
of the Talapoins are the only two individuals in Siam who have no 
superiors. 

Like all ignorant and uneducated people, they are superstitious. 
Without referring to a belief in ghosts, witchcraft, lucky and unlucky 
days, this trait is amusingly observed in their mode of detecting a 
thief. A gentleman who has been long a resident at Bankok, re- 
lated to me the following anecdote. 

An individual lost from his apartment two bars of gold. Immedi- 
ately on missing them, all those persons suspected of the theft were 
called together, and a conjurer summoned to declare who was the 
guilty individual. He came provided with several square bars, of a 
metallic appearance, six or seven inches long, and thick as the little 
finger, which, on examination, proved to be of a species of clay. He 



302 SIAMESE MODE OF DETECTING A THIEF. 

charged each one with the theft, and asked them individually 
"whether thej knew any thing of the gold, and was answered in the 
negative. He then lighted a small wax candle, and stuck upon each 
side of it a ticiil, obtained from the man who had lost the gold, and, 
muttering an invocation or spell, took a piece of clay, and three 
times very ceremoniously raised it above his head. Then measuring 
it very carefully by the little finger, he broke it into pieces an 
inch and a half long, and gave to each suspected person three of 
them, which they were directed to chew as fast as possible, and 
prove their innocence by spitting, when the mastication was com- 
plete. All set to work chewing, and soon all were trying to spitj 
and as upon the success of the effort depends the innocence or guilt 
of the accused, in the opinion of the Siamese, the scene may be rea- 
dily imagined. In this case there were ten attempting to spit, and 
at last, after much labor, all succeeded, except a girl of fifteen, who 
was finally pronounced guilty; and the conjurer with the candle and 
licals walked off* in triumph. 

The test by clay is so much in favor, that, upon it alone, persons 
are often heavily ironed, and daily flogged, until they confess, or the 
stolen property be returned. In the present instance, the poor girl 
received only a promise of such treatment, and probably owes her 
escape altogether to the proverbial faithlessness of the Siamese to 
their words. 



SIAMESE BADGES OF NOBILITY. 



303 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



SKETCHES IN SIAM. 



4on7, 1836. 

On returning from our visit to Momfanoi, we found Mr. Roberts 
preparing to visit a distinguished officer of the government, entitled, 
Phya-Ratsa-pa-vade. Desirous of conforming as much as possible to 
the customs of the East, on all occasions while in Siam, we were 
careful to appear with as much pomp and circumstance as our means 
would admit, and made all public visits in full dress, preceded by 
our band. We marched along the narrow streets, to a military air, 
followed by a crowd, but observed none to crouch before us, as they 
are wont to do in the presence of the tea-kettled nobility of the 
magnificent kingdom of Thai. 

A few minutes brought us to the dwelling of the " big officer," as 

the worthy captain of the port was pleased to call him. It is a large 

one story building, enclosed in a spacious yard| and the centre of 

the front opens upon a broad veranda, exposing a hall of eighty by 

forty feet, whose lofty ceiling is supported by numerous wooden 

columns. The lloor is elevated about four feet above the ground, 

and was covered with mats. The hall was furnished with chairs, 

tables and Chinese mirrors, and many lamps hung from the ceiling. 

Close to the middle of the back wall reclined the great man on a 

dciis, clothed in a silk sarong. Before him, on the dais, were his 

patents of nobility and badges of office, consisting of a tea-kettle, 

chunam box, spittoons and drinking cup, all of pure gold. To his 

left, crouched on the ground, were a fan bearer and a sword bearer, 

and on either hand were his numerous slaves and inferior officers. 

Instead of looking at the dress of a Siamese to estimate his rank, 
it is necessary to cast the eye upon the slave following him, who bears 
upon a tray the badge which designates his master's rank. Tea-ket- 



304 VISIT TO THE PHYA-RATSA-PA-VADE. 

ties of gold and silver, plain or ornamented, are patents of the high- 
est grades of nobility, and are presented by the king as commissions 
of office. 

A row of chairs stood beneath the veranda, facing the Phya-Rat- 
sa-pa-vade, for our accommodation, to which we were showed by Pi- 
adade, who acted as interpreter. He bent down upon his elbows and 
knees, and crawled in the most abject manner to half way between, 
us and our host, and there remained during the interview. 

At the foot of each one of the pillars of the front row, were spit- 
toons and quivers of cigars, placed on low stools. The doors leading 
to inner apartments were concealed by silk screens. A crowd of 
naked rabble was in the yard, and another beyond the wall gazing 
upon us to gratify their idle curiosity. 

The scene was opened by the son of the General, who received us 
on our landing at Bankok. Dressed in his gaudy uniform and cocked 
hat, he crawled along at our feet, on his knees and one hand, as well 
as he might, offering cigars with the other, to each of us as he passed: 
And then returned in the same manner with a lighted candle and pa- 
per matches to light them by. 

A few common place questions were asked and answered through 
Piadade, who made a salam at the beginning and end of every sen- 
tence. After a few minutes, the Ratsa-pa-vade asked whether our 
quarters and situation were agreeable, and hoped we would waive all 
ceremony and make ourselves quite at ease. Tables loaded with 
fruits and sweetmeats of various kinds were now wheeled up before 
us, and, during the interview, tea, without sugar or milk, was served 
several times. 

At the request of the Ratsa-pa-vade, our band played several airs, 
which, he was pleased to say, was the best music he had ever heard. 
At the end of a half hour, we took leave by shaking hands, and re- 
turned in the order we came. Very soon after reaching the house, 
several slaves arrived laden with fruit, presented by the officer we 
had just visited. It is an invariable custom in Siam, to send presents 
immediately, by way of showing that the visit has been acceptable. 

Early the following morning, Ramon, whom the reader may recol- 
lect as one of our interpreters at Paknam, requested me, in the name 
of Phya-pi-pat-kosa, familiarly known among foreigners as the se- 
cond P'hra Klang or second minister, to visit him professionally. I 
appointed ten o'clock, and a little before that hour, Ramon appeared 
and announced, he was ready. Accompanied by a friend, I took my 
place in the Phya-pi-pat-kosa's sampan or gondola, rowed by seven 



A SIAMESE HAREM. 305 

men, and, crossing the busy river, we entered a canal and pursued 
its course for nearly a mile, threading our way amidst boats of every 
description. Moored along the banks were many large sampans, with 
semicylindrical roofs, occupied as their permanent residence by large 
families. Some were salt shops, and others were stored with earthen- 
ware. The people were nearly naked, and though wanting the dig- 
nity, they apparently possessed the ease desired by the poet. Some' 
were whiling away time, in pursuing game, industriously sought, in the 
bristly hair of each others' crowns. Many were swimming in the 
water. Fishermen with baskets slung upon their backs to hold what- 
ever they might catch, were wading about waist deep, net in hand. 

The scene was attractive for its novelty, and we wondered how so 
many people could exist in so small a space; they were wretchedly 
filthy in appearance, and so disgusting that we felt no regret at 
leaving. 

The sampan stopped at the foot of a rude stair, by which we mount- 
ed on the bank, and entered a large yard through an ornamented gate- 
wav. Within stood the dwelling of the second minister. It is exten- 
sive, and, like most of the houses in Bankok, one story high. The 
front presents an open hall with painted walls and carved joists, gaudy 
as the unsubstantial show of theatrical scenery. In this hall we were 
requested to remain; Ramon disappeared behind a screen, and did not 
return before we had leisurely examined the apartment. It had three 
sides, the front being open, and supported by pillars of teak wood, 
and protected from the weather by a great mat, swinging like a shut- 
ter from the eaves. The only furniture it contained was the dais or 
low table, upon which the great men of Siam recline when they re- 
ceive their guests. Several slaves were lazily dusting and sweeping 
the mats upon the floor. 

Presently Ramon beckoned us from the side of the screen, and we 
passed through an inner court, upon which opened an apartment si- 
milar to the one we had left, except it was neither so neat, nor so 
much ornamented. Here the Phya-pi-pat-kosa, a short stout man, 
with a round good-humored face, clothed in a sarong of crimson silk, 
reclined upon a dais, in the midst of his family. Twenty of his wives 
were seated round a la Turque, with perhaps as many children. A 
female, resting on her knees, about two yards from the dais was fan- 
ning the minister. Thus we were introduced unexpectedly into a 
Siamese harem. The ladies were the fairest among their conntry- 
women, I had the fortune to see; and I may add, they were graceful 
in their manners. They were all dressed alike, in silk drawers ga- 
39 



306 A SIAMESE HAREM. 

thered full about the waist and ankles, and had a narrow scarf of 
black Canton crape thrown carelessly over the shoulders, which very 
partially and fitfully concealed the bosom. Their bare arms were 
folded acVoss the chest, showing long taper fingers, which appeared 
longer on account of the long-trained nails. They sat silent, and had 
their eyes cast down. 

The children were running about entirely naked, except one little 
girl of six or seven years old, who wore a golden fig leaf, supported 
by a heavy chain around the hips. This child was more grave than 
the rest, and stood, during the interview, with one finger in her little 
mouth, gazing at us strangers in v/onder. 

The Phya-pi-pat-kosa, stood erect on the dais, and shaking us 
cordially by the hand, requested us to be seated on its edge along 
with him. Ramon lay extended on his knees and elbows, salaming 
according to custom. The son of our host, a young man of twenty- 
two, was kneeling in the court, which was lower than the apartment, 
supporting his arms and chest against the floor of the hall. 

Tea was immediately brought, and the minister stated, he wished 
me to see his niece, whom he had caused to be brought in from the 
country for this purpose. She was spoken to, and my attention was 
called to a female of fair proportions, whose arm and hand a statuary 
might consider as a model, who, in a squat position, managed to move 
along the matted floor. Her features were regular, and countenance 
attractive, but a glance showed me that her situation scarcely admitted 
relief at my hands. She was totally blind, and had been so for nine 
years. I presumed her age to be twenty, but her uncle assured me 
it was twenty-seven. I asked him if she were married, whereupon 
he laughed heartily, saying, *' Who would marry a w^oman without 
eyes?" which caused a general titter among all the ladies. I ex- 
plained to the patient, that an operation might be successful in re- 
storing sight, but it was doubtful; and, at any rate, my short stay 
would prevent me from makiugany attempt: I, therefore, recommended 
her to take the advice of Dr. Bradley, a resident American mission- 
ary at Bankok, who is daily employed in acts of benevolent useful- 
ness in behalf of the Siamese. There was a sigh of disappointment, 
but not a word escaped the patient. 

The minister next brought forward a child of two years old, la- 
boring under curvature of the spine, and inquired whether the de- 
formity could be relieved. As in the first case, I referred him to 
Dr. Bradley. He appeared to be very fond of his children, to judge 
from the manner in which he caressed them. 



VISIT TO THE PHYA-SI-PI-PAT. 307 

Ramon, having witnessed some of my phrenological examinations, 
related what he had seen, to the Ph ja-pi-pat-kosa, whose curiosity was 
awakened, and he requested me to state the character of his son. In 
this instance, the flither declared my remarks were correct; and 
when I expressed an opinion that tlie young man was fond of female 
society, the ladies shouted in approbation. 

The interview lasted nearly two hours, during which tea, fruit, 
sweetmeats and cigars were served. I remarked, that it v/as con- 
sidered indecorous and impolite to smoke tobacco in the presence of 
ladies. " With us," replied the gay minister, ** on the contrary, it 
is the sign of friendship, for your enemy will never allow you to 
smoke in his face." We now took leave of the ** big officer," who 
shook us most socially by the hand, and invited us to repeat our 
visit. 

The ladies of the better ranks are not actually excluded from sight, 
but strangers are very rarely permitted to see them. They are 
much more comely and of a lighter complexion than those common- 
ly met with abroad. 

We returned by the same route we had come, Hamon all the way 
lauding the minister for his goodness, wealth and wisdom. 

In the afternoon we made a visit to the Phya-si-pi-pat, who is 
acting for his brother, the P'hra Klang, or minister of foreign af- 
fairs, now absent at Chantibun. 

Just at sunset, we landed from our several boats near the house 
of the first minister, where the band had been stationed to receive 
us. Along the narrow street as far as the house, there was a crowd 
of Siamese squatting and gazing upon us in wonder, as v/e marched 
on preceded by the music. We found the court yard quite as 
crowded as the street. From it we were conducted into a lofty and 
extensive hall, two sides of which were a series of doors, opening 
upon surrounding verandas. On the right was a partition, or screen, 
covered with Chinese paintings, and Siamese arms; and to the left 
was a table, handsomely spread in the European style with fruits, 
sweetmeats and wines. Along the v/all, in front of us, were three 
dliis covered with Persian rugs, and there was a carpet on the 
floor. The pillars supporting the roof resembled polished marble, 
but were of wood covered with chunam. The Phya-si-pi-pat re- 
clined on the first dais. He was a fat man, of about fifty, in a sarong 
of silk. A square pillow of crimson silk, embroidered in gold, sup- 
ported his right side; and the right arm was extended straight over 
the edge of the dais, while the left hand grasped the sole of the right 



308 VISIT TO THE PHYA-SI-PI-PAT. 

foot, which was turned upwards. The left leg was sufficiently ben 
to allow the sole to rest upon the rug. In front of him, on the dais 
were a large bowl of water with a cup floating in it, a spittoon, an 
arecanut and a chunam box, all of gold, and all surmounted by coni- 
cal covers of crimson paper, figured with gold, together with a gold 
enamelled tea-kettle, China tea-pot, and gold quivers for cigars, the 
distinguishing badges and patents of his nobility. A sword-bearer 
knelt upon his left, bearing a two-handed sword, cased in a crimson 
velvet scabbard, the hilt of which was set with brilliants; and be- 
side him crouched a fan bearer, exercising the functions of his office. 

On the next dais was the Phya-pi-pat-kosa, and next to him, 
another officer of less rank, both attired, and surrounded by the in- 
signia of their respective ranks, agreeing, however, in character with 
those of the Phya-si-pi-pat. 

The hall was illuminated by lamps suspended from the walls and 
ceiling, reflected by numberless small mirrors. Our band was still 
playing, a crowd of naked spectators stood outside, and about the 
floor crouched the numerous menials and inferior officers of the 
ministers. When we had entered a few steps, the Phya-si-pi-pat 
stood up on the dais, and shook us individually by the hand, and 
motioned us to seats at the table. As we sat down the music ceased, 
and the minister resumed his eastern position. A few observations, 
such as are common on such occasions, were made by Mr. Roberts 
and the Phya-si-pi-pat. 

In a few minutes tea and coffiae were served, and then wine. 
Mr. Roberts proposed, " The health of the king of Siam and his 
ministers," which was drunk standing, and followed by three cheers, 
no doubt much to the astonishment of the worthy natives present. 
Immediately afterwards he gave, " The President of the United 
States," which was drunk with two cheers; which was universally 
disapproved of by the officers, because it looked like yielding a de- 
gree of rank, and had the toast been distinctly heard, I doubt whe- 
ther it would not have received a third cheer. After the wine, co- 
coanuts with the tops off, containing parched nuts, which add much to 
the flavor of the milk, and obviate the unpleasant effect which this 
beverage occasionally has upon the health, were served. 

In a short time the company was scattered through the hall in 
groups, viewing whatever struck them worthy of admiration, or con- 
versing with the officers on there several dais. My friend, the Phya- 
pi-pat-kosa, recognised me by many smiles, and sent me a cup of 
tea from his own tea-kettle. He asked many questions relative to 



BORROWING A THIRTY-TWO POUNDER. S09 

health, &c., and complained of pains in his knees, which were hard. 
The knees and elbows of the Siamese, from constant kneeling, and 
crouching in the presence of superiors, are hardened like the soles of 
those persons who go habitually barefoot. This I found to be very 
common among these people of all grades. When we took leave, he 
shook my hand in both his; and then, in spite of my teeth, pushed his 
thumb and finger into my mouth, and there deposited a bolus of 
spices of most agreeable flavor. 

The Phya-si-pi-pat was curious in examining the officers' swords, 
and by way of contrast exhibited his sword of statej but he appeared 
much disturbed when one of the officers drew the blade half out of 
the scabbard, it being contrary to Siamese etiquette, to have naked 
weapons in the presence of nobles or great men. 

When the Prince Momfanoi was on board, he was very particular 
in the examination of our great guns. In the course of the evening, 
the Phya-si-pi-pat requested that one of them might be sent up to 
Bankok to look at, as they wished to mount some of their own after 
the same manner. The weight of a thirty-two pounder was, in their 
opinion, not the slightest objection to granting the request; and 
though a model was promised, which was afterwards sent, they did 
not seem to think us obliging. 

As a mark of attention^ and to testify their grati&cation upon the 
occasion of our visit, the minister proposed to entertain us with a 
dramatic exhibition, and requested to know whether we would like 
a long or a short play; one of an hour, or one of two, three or four 
hours; and we pronounced in favor of the long one. 

At the end of two hours we took leave; and, issuing out of the 
house, we found an open way, from the door to the street, through a 
crowd of squatting Siamese, lighted by torches of sweet-smelling 
agila wood. Similar torches were held, a few feet apart, all the 
way to the boats, showing a novel scene, by their dappling light. 

A large present of fruit followed us home. 



• 10 AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. 



CHAPTER XXXL 

SKETCHES IN SIAM. 

£pnk 1836. 

Among the most agreeable hours spent at Bankok, were those 
passed in the society of the American missionaries. 

Whatever may be our opinions relative to the soundness of the 
policy under which they act, we cannot fail to accord to them, admi- 
ration for their devotedness to the high cause which excites and 
cheers them in their philanthropic labors. We see them among a 
race of beings, whose degraded state of knowledge and morals, and 
whose wretchedness and poverty call hourly for their sympathy and 
charitable exertions; while the strong passion, which swells every 
breast, remains controlled in their bosoms — I mean the aftection 
which binds every individual to his own home and .hearth-stone — de- 
prived of friends, of congenial society, of many comforts and all the 
luxuries of life; we behold them, still cheerfully toiling in a cause, 
the success of which appears to be almost hopeless — at least, the 
most sanguine now living, cannot expect to see it. While they con- 
tend against all these chilling circumstances, they are surveyed 
and watched by the eyes of individuals whose interests are op- 
posed to the diffusion of knowledge, and the advancement of virtue 
and religion. And those persons, often their own countrymen, are 
found in the ranks of the ignorant political rulers, encouraging them 
to persist in their ignorance, and even to curtail the few privileges 
the missionaries may have already gained. I am not aware tliat this 
is the case in Siam, but in other parts of the world this is generally 
true. They misconstrue their motives, and most maliciously distort 
and misrepresent their acts and words. Those persons certainly 
have not calmly investigated the subject, or they cannot be aware 
that they are standing in their own light. They will not believe that 
the march of the christian religion will always be followed closely 
by intelligence and increase of commerce. 



AMElilCAN MISSIONARIES. 311 

However my opinions may be swayed by philanthropic views, with- 
out discussing the question of its intrinsic necessity on the score of 
religion, I would encourage the christianization of all Asia, Polyne- 
sia, and indeed of all the world, because I think it is sound policy. 
By such a change, commerce must be benefitted. Our merchants, 
upon a candid investigation of the subject, will probably find their 
interest in doing all they can in behalf of those pious individuals, 
who sacrifice the honors of this world, in earning a glorious crown in 
the next, by attempting to put misbelievers in the path to sound mo- 
rals, true religion and rational liberty. 

To what extent our trade in the East would be augmented by the 
conversion to Christianity of Siam, Cochin-China, China and Japan, 
it is impossible to conjecture. Vi^hen the half naked millions of 
Asia shall attain Christianity, and with it, all the new wants which 
the necessary change in their social condition will produce, the soil 
of our country, as rich and vast as it is, will be scarcely adequate to 
supply them. A new and extensive mart must be opened for our 
manufactures of all kinds, and even the literary will find an increased 
demand for their labors. Hundreds of ships will spread their sails 
to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, destined for the shores of 
Asia and the isles scattered in the southern ocean, and commerce 
will pour her wealth, gathered in the old world, into the lap of the 
Bew. 

Dr. Bradley assisted by his wife, dispenses medical advice and me- 
dicines daily, to at least one hundred afflicted Siamese. I spent se- 
veral hours at their dispensary, and left with feelings of admiration 
and respect for individuals, who appeared, more in the light of minis- 
tering angels of beneficence, than in that of human beings. When 
I contrasted their present situation with what it must have been in 
the United States 5 and viewed their active and incessant labors in 
behalf of objects more calculated to excite disgust than call forth ac- 
tive pity; the risk of health and life they were daily incurring, I could 
not help suspecting them of acting under the influence of an enthusias- 
tic zeal, tending rather to retard than advance their cause. Their ef- 
forts are too strong, and must defeat themselves: a more leisurely and 
cautious manner, for the first few years at least, ought to be pursued. 
Of the truth of this opinion they are inclined to be convinced, but 
say, " How can we thrust away from us the afflicted who hourly pe- 
tition our relieving charity?" They are aware that their own unac- 
climated constitutions are incapable of long enduring so much fatigue: 
they know from experience, that over zeal has been a rock upon which 



312 missionaries' dispensary. 

many bright prospects of the cause have been wrecked: they know 
that steady perseverance is likely to achieve more in this, as in every 
thing else, than interrupted efforts, however strong; yet they pursue 
the impolitic course, unable to repress the ardent desire of doing good, 
notwithstanding that " doing good, every day," is contrary to the laws 
of the land. 

I accompanied Dr. and Mrs. Bradley from their humble dwelling, 
where they have all the little comforts which circumstances allow, to 
the dispensary, a small floating house on the river. The voyage was 
made in a sampan of the commonest kind, without shelter from a 
blazing sun. 

We found nearly a hundred individuals crowded under the little 
veranda, and many, still in their boats, awaiting the doctor's arrival. 
Among the number was a considerable proportion of talapoins in their 
yellow robes, and I thought all manifested pleasure at our coming. 

The males on the veranda were separated, but a stranger would 
be unable to distinguish the sexes by their features, and, being aware 
of this, the doctor, very kindly said, *' These are the females, and 
those the males," The front of the dispensary is divided into two 
apartments, one occupied by Mrs. Bradley, who dispenses prescrip- 
tions to the women, and, where the treatment of a case is continuous, 
manages the detail, thus leaving Dr. Bradley more time to bestow on 
new, or more urgent cases. In every instance, the prescription is 
written on a slip of paper, upon the reverse of which is a text from 
Scripture, in Siamese, and the patients have acquired the notion, that 
this is an important part of the treatment. Whether this plan of 
disseminating the Scriptures be a feasible one I question; seeming 
very much like exhibiting chippings from the sculptor's chisel as a 
sample of a fine piece of statuary, or a brick as a specimen of archi- 
tectural structure. Besides, it may lead to the impression that these 
texts are spells essential to the cure of disease. 

I spent several hours here, and saw many specimens of disease, 
which I had never before seen: A variety of the affections of the skin 
which are scarcely known in our country. The diseases of the eye 
are very numerou®, which may possibly arise from constant exposure 
in the low sampans, to the reflected glare of the sun from the surface 
of the river. Ulcers of various kinds abound. 

I took leave of this scene, and left my best wishes for the philan- 
thropic individuals who are instruments of almost incalculable cha- 
rity. 

On Sunday, the Rev. Charles Robinson delivers a sermon at the 



MISSIONARIES IN BANKOK. 313 

dispensary, in Siamese, which is attended by from one hundred to a 
hundred and twenty. 

Onjone occasion, I passed neatly a day at the residence of the Rev. 
Messrs. C. Robinson, and W. Dean, and feel indebted to them, for 
their kindness and attention in showing me many things of interest, 
as well as for giving me much information. Mrs. Robinson will long 
be remembered by us with pleasure. 

Mr. Dean devotes every afternoon to prescribing for from forty to 
fifty Chinese patients, many of whom are sailors from the junks 
trading here, and on Sundays he preaches to a small congregation, in 
Chinese. He has charge of the Chinese church, consisting of five 
members, three of whom he baptized. Besides the afternoon patients, 
he dispenses medicines to about a hundred individuals during the 
week. Professing but a limited knowledge of the healing art, his 
most difficult cases are referred to Dr. Bradley. 

An idea of the extensive field of his labors among the Chinese in 
Bankok may be derived from the following facts. The Chinese popu- 
lation of the city, in 1836, was 400,000, and from thirty to eighty 
junks, with crews numbering from twenty to one hundred and thirty 
each, annually visit the port, and remain from February till May or 
June, arriving in one monsoon and returning in the other. They are 
chiefly from the island of Hainan, Canton, and Leang-Hae; but 
their crews, as well as a majority of the Chinese residents of the city, 
speak the dialect Teo-chew, their native place, a subdivision of the 
Canton province. 

Those who have labored here among the Chinese, as missionaries, 
are Gutzlaff, Tomlin, Abeel, Johnson, and Dean; the latter arrived 
in July, 1835, and is the only one now at Bankok. 

Two or three schools have been begun here for Chinese children, 
and one is now in operation; but there is much difficulty in originating 
and sustaining them, for the reason that the children of the China- 
men here have Siamese, Burman, Laos, and other country women for 
mothers, whose prejudices are even stronger than those of the Chi- 
nese themselves. 

The missionaries whose labors are exercised in behalf of the Si- 
amese are the Rev. T. R. Jones, the Rev. Charles Robinson, and Dr. 
D. B. Bradley. Mr. Jones has prepared some tracts in Siamese, and 
has commenced the translation of the sacred scriptures. He is, at 
present, at Singapore, on account of the health of his family, but is 
expected to return soon. 

The residence of the missionaries was moved, soon after their ar- 
40 



314 MISSIONARIES IN BANKOK. 

rival, to its present place, bj the Siamese authorities, because, as it 
was asserted, they were too near the residence of His Magnificent 
Majesty, who once a year passed that way. Besides, the missiona- 
ries were doing good every day, and thereby obtaining too much 
merit, which was contrary to law. His Magnificent Majesty, himself, 
not being allowed to "do good " for more than ten days success- 
ively. 

The missionaries are not certain of permission to remain, for the 
Siamese are suspicious, and confine them strictly to the city. They 
applied for leave to visit the ancient capital of Yut^hia, a hundred 
miles up the river, but were denied. Dr. Bradley visited Chantibun, 
and, on his return, made a chart, or plan of the river^ while copying 
it, his teacher constantly expressed apprehension of being detected 
in the act, and thereby incur punishment. They have never had an 
audience with the king, and the request of Mr. Roberts in their be- 
half was denied. 

Among other matters of interest showed to us by the missionaries 
were several Siamese books. They consist of a long sheet, folded, 
alternately, right and left, and some of them are ornamented with 
paintings, very much after the fashion of illuminated manuscripts, 
but far inferior in the style of execution. The reader sits on the 
ground, « la Turque, and unfolds the book before him. 

Of the Roman Catholic missionaries I learned nothing. 

Soon after sunrise, one morning, we entered our sampan with Ra- 
mon, and set off for the Bazaar. In our way along the river we met 
a number of Talapoins, in small canoes, some of them containing two 
or three, collecting alms. It strongly reminded me of the beggars I 
have seen about the kitchen entrances of large hotels, receiving the 
broken meats of the previous day. The priests of the great Guata- 
ma are a filthy race^ often the robes upon their backs were not yel- 
low, as they should be, and we may truly say, ni perro, ni gato del 
mismo color could possibly be found. 

At this hour the scene on the river is not so busy as later in the 
day. The Siamese find it more agreeable, on account of the heat of 
the'climate, to pass the night, or a great part of it, in visiting and 
transacting business. The king usually holds his cabinet councils 
between sunset and midnight. 

We turned into a canal, thronged with boats, among which our 
gondoliers threaded their way with a skill that at once surprised and 
pleased us. It is impossible to convey an idea of this singular scene. 
We landed in front of a wat, whose enamelled roof and gilded spire 



THE BAZAAR BY DAY. 315 

were glittering in the morning sua. The architecture is peculiar; 
particularly the roof, which, in form may be compared to three sad- 
dles, , placed one on top of the other, diminishing, in size, from the 
lowest one to the top. The effect is more pleasing than one would 
imagine, and, from the costliness of the structure, we might infer that 
religious feeling is very strong in the bosoms of the Siamese. 

We passed over one of the high narrow bridges, resembling more 
what we might expect to find in the wilds of the western world, than 
a bridge in a metropolis numbering a population of half a million. It 
consisted of a rough plank, only wide enough for one person to walk 
upon, supported on lofty posts driven into each side of the stream. 
In our excursions along the canals, we often passed under similar 
bridges, many of them fifteen or twenty feet above our heads. 

After crossing the bridge, we found ourselves before a row of huts, 
occupied by Chinese blacksmiths, who were seated beside their an- 
vils, at work; not, however, wielding the huge sledge, with brawny 
arm, after the fashion of our own vulcans. Throughout the East, the 
mechanics are seen seated at their various labors. The carpenter, 
the tailor, the blacksmith, and the votary of St. Crispin alike ply 
their tools, seated on the ground. The feet of the carpenter are as 
often employed, as a vice, in holding the wood he is working, as his 
hands the plane. 

Just at this spot there was a crowd of fishing boats, their bows 
wedging into the shore, and a noisy assemblage of men and women 
receiving into their baskets quantities of fine fish, all alive. The 
scene was enlivened by loud exclamation and vituperation, aided by 
the squalling of children and the barking of lank curs, that testified 
their displeasure by snarling and growling wherever we appeared. 
Why is it that fishermen and fishwomen, all over the world, are so 
given to vociferation? 

The walk we were in, along a canal, terminated in a street about 
twenty feet wide, crossing at right angles, forming the bazaar, which 
is at least a mile in length. It is paved with large square bricks, 
which were now covered with slimy ooze. On either side were shops, 
or stalls, five or six of one kind in a row, alternating with as many 
more of a different description. Here were five or six tailor shops, 
and next, as many stalls hung with fat pork; opposite were confec- 
tioners, and next them poulterers, the latter passing the time, seated 
on the ground, picking the pin feathers from dead fowls, with twee- 
zers, making them look very clean, and much better than the plan 
of singeing followed by our cooks. Next were vegetables and fruits; 



316 THE BAZAAR BY NIGHT. 

and then, perhaps, shops filled with dried ducks, prepared for the use 
of Chinese seamen. The street was alive with people. Fishermen 
with their kicking fish, and water-carriers with jars of water, slung 
from the ends of a bamboo over the shoulders. The purchasers, with 
their purchases and bags of cowries, all moving in heterogeneous 
streams, mingling and changing every moment, as they advanced in 
opposite directions. The hum of the multitude rose on the still air^ 
and the curs barking at us, broke the monotony wherever we went. 
Then there was the disgust of naked bodies, shining in greasy per- 
spiration, to detract from any thing like romance, with which the 
imagination might have clothed the scene. 

At intervals of two or three hundred yards, the thoroughfare was 
partly interrupted by a sort of stage, eight or ten feet high, erected 
in the middle of it, for the exhibition of dramatic spectacles. 

Having seen the Bazaar by day, we also paid it a visit at night. 
It was then much less crowded. Around the stages were knots of 
individuals, enjoying puppet shows and a sort of diorama, exhibited 
by Chinese. Then, too, the gambling-houses were open. In front 
of them were spread tables, around which people were assembled, 
venturing their cowries, fu-angs, and ticals, on the throw of the 
dice, or turning of the cards, by the light of numerous copper lamps, 
fed with cocoanut oil. 

It is probable th^t similar scenes are witnessed in the towns of the 
Celestial Empire; for we may suppose, from the great proportion of 
Chinese in the city, that they have imposed their own manners and 
customs upon the people, and something of their own style upon the 
character of the architecture of Bankok. 

On Sunday morning the Phja-si-pi-pat informed us, by an officer, 
that, if it would be agreeable to us, we might, that evening, witness, 
at his house, 'a Siamese play. At once adopting the maxim, a Rome 
comme a. Borne, the invitation was accepted. 

About seven o'clock, P. M., we proceeded, as on the former occa- 
sion, and, following our band, marched from the landing, through a 
crowd of naked, squatting natives, lighted by great torches, and en- 
tered a court-yard, filled with people in similar primitive costume. 

We were conducted to a large apartment, the floor of which was 
broken into three broad steps, and open upon a court, the front being 
supported by highly polished chunamed pillars. On each of the 
several broad steps of the floor was a row of sofas and chairs, and, 
on our right, when facing the court, reclined upon his dais the Phya- 
yVi-pi-pat, surrounded by all the pomp and circumstance of his high 



SIAMESE THEATRICALS. 317 

office. The dais was placed near a small door, which opened into an 
apartment tapestried with crimson silk. The silk curtain which 
closejd the door, and those which shut a small window, with gilded 
trellis, by its side, were drawn back; and, though there was no lamp 
within, we perceived, by the reflection of numerous lights suspended 
in the hall, several females and children, dressed in silks and flash- 
ing in jewels, peeping upon the scene. One step below his father 
reclined the son of the Phya-si-pi-pat. 

The court below was covered with fine white matting, and except 
a clear space in front, presented a mass of half naked human beings 
on their hands and knees. On either side, at short distances apart, 
arose lambent flames, which at first sight seemed to proceed from 
entire barrels of oil; but on closer examination proved to be metal 
pans, set upon cylinders of bamboo. On the left were about twenty 
musicians, who began their performance the moment we entered the 
court. Their instruments were gongs, hautboys, and pieces of wood 
about a foot long, which were struck together in time with the other 
instruments, producing altogether a great deal more sound than me- 
lody. 

The minister received us cordially, and, on taking our seats upon 
the upper step on a level with him, servants crawling on their hands 
and knees, placed gold quivers of cigars and lighted tapers at our 
feet. The representation of a pantomimic drama, entitled the ' Angels ' 
now commenced. The plot seemed to be allegorical and illustrative 
of some portion of Boudhist religious history. The actors were 
accompanied in their performance by the band, and a recitative in a 
squeaking female voice and an occasional chorus, altogether enough 
* to split the ears of the groundlings.' 

The first scene presented two individuals in close red jackets, which 
fitted the shape to the hips, where they were joined to short full skirts. 

They wore masks, and conical caps terminating in a spire two feet 
high, and all ornamented with a profusion of tinsel and paint. Be- 
sides, they had long metallic-looking nails; in short, they were repre- 
senting mongrel monkeys. Their first act on entering upon the stage, 
from a door to the right, was to prostrate themselves before the Phya- 
si-pi-pat and touch the ground with their heads. Then they enacted a 
series of anticsin the slow time of the minuet,occasionally throvv^ing side 
somersets rapidly, and again knocking heads. At last they sat down, 
one on each side of the court, and were succeeded by twelve others, 
much more gaudily dressed, but in a similar fashion. One half repre- 
sented ladies, and the other knights; and, if the drama has any influ- 



318 SIAMESE THEATRICALS. 

ence upon taste in Siam, long finger nails are considered a mark of great 
elegance among the beauties of the capital; for the actresses had theirs 
elongated and turned backwards, by metal appendages, at least three 
inches in length. 

These knights and ladies ranged themselves in two lines, confront- 
ing each other, as in a contra-dance, and, in time to the slow music, as- 
sumed various attitudes, some of which were very graceful. They now 
promenaded in circle, and then changed places, the knights touching 
the ladies' hands, with due regard to their long nails, constantly mani- 
festing by gesticulation, their all-consuming love, which, however, the 
ladies were slow to accept. At the end of an hour, they took seats « 
la T^/rg'we on opposite sides of the stage, toglveplacetoagallantknight, 
who, from the energy of his gesture, enacted the part of a challenger. 
After he had raved his time upon the stage, the ladies and knights again 
minueted for an hour, and again gave place. A lady now entered fol- 
lowed by a knight in a black mask, whose pursuit she was flying. 
Whenever he approached, she screamed and very gracefully eluded his 
grasp. They disappeared. The minuet of twelve was again per- 
formed, and, upon assuming their seats, a lighter female figure than any 
which had yet appeared, and more gaudily attired, entered bearing be- 
tween her fingers a sparkling ball. She was the angel of light. The 
black mask soon pursued her, but the sparkling ball had talismanic 
powers, and he quailed before its flashing light, whenever he approached 
too near. After essaying in vain against the powers of the talisman, the 
black knight was encountered by the challenger. Both were armed 
with short swords. After strutting and motioning defiance at each 
other for half an hour, while the recitative became more squeaking, vo- 
ciferating and discordant than ever, and just as we thought their cou- 
rage had oozed away, they crossed their blades. They made terri- 
ble passes at each other, but both were too cunning at fence to be soon 
overpowered. The challenger fell, and the black knight placed his 
foot upon the breast of his foe; but he struggled again to his feet, and 
overthrew the black mask, leaving the spectators to infer that virtue 
finally triumphs over vice. 

The native musicians now brought their instruments in front of 
us and performed several airs, which were repaid by as many from 
our band. Their instruments are similar to those of the Javan game- 
Ian which has been already described. 

Half an hour after the commencement of the play the Phya-si-pi- 
pat retired, offering us an apology, the necessity of visiting his Magni- 



DELIVERY OF THE TREATY. 319 

ficent Majesty. He had no sooner disappeared from amidst his golden 
badges of nobility and office, than his son filled the place. 

The only refreshment offered besides cigars, during the entertain- 
ment, was water, served in basins of pure gold, and drunk from cups 
of the same metal. 

We were heartily weary of the three hours' play, long before it 
was concluded, and at the proper time gladly took leave, and re- 
turned as v/e had come, lighted by torches. 

On descending into the court, Piadade inquired how I liked the 
actresses. I thought they acted well, and some of us were not a 
little surprised to be assured they were all males. 

Most of the wealthy Siamese nobles entertain a company and 
a theatre in their own houses, for their private amusement, similar to 
that just described. 



CHAPTER XXX. 



SKETCHES IN SIAM. 



April, im^. 

The following morning, the officers were formed into a procession 
headed by Mr. Roberts, two of them bearing a box, containing the 
American copy of the treaty, and marched to the river, distant about 
a hundred yards, preceded by our band. At the place of embarka- 
tion, a canoe eighty feet long, rowed by thirty-four oars, both ends 
curving upwards, awaited to receive it. A bright crimson silk ca- 
nopy, embroidered in gold, overhung the centre of the canoe, with 
which all the ornaments of the vessel were in keeping. The rowers 
wore the red livery of the king. 

On reaching the margin of the river, Mr. Roberts took the treaty 
in his hand, and, after holding it up above his head in token of re- 
spect, delivered it to a Siamese officer, the secretary of the P'hra 
Klang. He also held it above his head, and then, shaded by a royal 



320 MAD ELEPHANT SIA-YUT^HIA HALL OF JUSTICE. 

chat, a large white silk umbrella, borne bj a slave, passed it into the 
boat, where it was received upon an ornamented stand, and after co- 
vering it with a cone of gilt paper, it was placed beneath the canopy. 
At this moment our band ceased, and that of the Siamese began to 
plaj. The canoe shoved off, and we turned our steps homeward 
to the merry tune of yankee doodle. 

Immediately after the conclusion of this curious ceremony of de- 
livering the treaty, I set off, in company with several officers, for 
Sia-Yut'hia, the residence of the king, situated on an island about 
two miles from our mission house, and on the opposite side of the ri- 
ver. As we moved along, we saw several toys floating on the stream, 
which, as we were told, were offerings to the spirits of departed 
friends. 

On landing outside of the wall, enclosing the palace and town, we 
were conducted to see a huge white elephant. He was dirty and 
wild, and, from being yet untamed, is called the mad elephant. Each 
of his legs was secured to a post driven into the ground, and he was 
attended by three or four slaves. The i rides were white. 

We passed a gate, which was carefully closed after us, and we 
found ourselves in a broad street of mean houses, in Sia-Yut'hia, the 
capital city of the magnificent kingdom of Thai. We followed our 
conductor, Ramon, and passed a second wall enclosing a number of 
buildings, by no means neat in appearance. The principal one, si- 
tuated in the centre of an open area, is called the Hall of Justice, 
and resembles an old store-house. The hall of justice is a roof of 
tiles supported on stout columns of wood without walls. Horizontal 
shutters of coarse matting, are so contrived that they may be made to 
exclude the rays of the sun, as they are cast either on one side or the 
other. The floor is raised about two feet above the ground, and was 
covered with mats, and along its edge were ranged several brass ba- 
sins of water, with a drinking cup of the same metal floating in each. 

In the enclosure in which the hall stands, the're are a number of 
mounted guns of heavy caliber, each one protected by a kind of 
weather house. 

The day w^as oppressively hot, and we found the hall of justice an 
agreeable shelter from the sun. Here we met our friend Piadade, 
and about a dozen Siamese. They examined us long and attentively^ 
and some of them were so curious that they actually laid their hands 
on the uniforms of some of the officers. 

Soon after our arrival, a considerable crowd of Siamese gathered 
around the hall, and presently His Highness, Prince Momfanoi, ap- 



PROCESSION OF ELEPHANTS WHITE ELEPHANTS. 321 

peared seated a la Turque, on a palanquin, consisting simply of a 
platform between two poles, shaded by a silk awning supported by 
four staves. As he approached, the crowd fell upon their elbows and 
knees. He waved his hand and nodded familiarly to us as he passed, 
but received the salams of the prostrate hundreds without notice. 
He was followed by his faithful Sap, bearing the golden tea-kettle, 
and chunam-box, and a sword-bearer. Although he continued on to 
another enclosure, all that part of the crowd within the range of 
the Prince's eye remained prostrate. I followed His Highness, and 
found him seated on a rude dais in company with one or two nobles, 
under a ruined roof of bamboo, and the wide-spreading branches of 
a large tree, which afforded them ample shade. He received us gaily, 
saying, *'This is a better place to sit than the king himself has got, 
because we have a fresh cool breeze," He was in fine spirits, and 
invited us to sit and take tea with him, and then a cigar. 

Very soon a discordant screech of hautboys, announced the ap- 
proaching procession, which was kindly got up for the gratification of 
those officers who were required to return on board ship, before the 
presentation took place. The Prince laughed heartily, crying, " Go 
see, go seel'^ which we readily obeyed, prompted as we were by our 
curiosity. 

A band of a dozen, in red and green uniforms, their cheeks swelled 
in musical effort, marched onward, closely followed by seven ele- 
phants. First, came a huge black, fourteen feet high, then a large 
white, followed by another much smaller, and four spotted elephants 
of ordinary size. Beside each one walked a keeper, and several 
slaves bearing silver salvers, loaded with pealed sugar cane and lus- 
cious bananas. The driver sat on the neck of each, in front of the 
houdah, or saddle-cloth, which was gold. Broad hoops of gold em- 
braced each lusty leg, and jewelled rings glittered on the tusks of the 
white elephants; and from the ears of all of them, were suspended 
tails of beautifully white hair. 

The pageant wheeled round and halted on one side of the hall of 
justice. The slaves sat down their salvers before their respective 
elephants, and we were invited to admire and feed the animals, the 
possession of which, in the opinion of the Siamese, gives their king 
pre-eminence above every other monarch in the East, 

The small elephant is the beauty of her race. She has a soft 
white skin, a beautiful chestnut-colored eye, and a most complaisant 
manner of disposing of sugar-cane and bananas from the hand of the 
41 



322 SPOTTED ELEPHANTS— WAT-p'hRA.-SI-RATANAT. 

stranger. The other white elephant is a very much larger animal; 
but the skin is of a yellowish hue. Both are supposed to be ani- 
mated by the transmigrated souls of Siamese monarchs. 

The spotted elephants are all large. With the exception of the 
ears and shoulders, which are speckled rather than spotted, their 
color is dark and uniform. The forehead of each animal is painted 
black, the outline of which is white, and traces the form of a head- 
cloth. 

The careful keeping and strict attention bestowed upon these ele- 
phants, show how highly they are prized. The minute examination 
and admiration of our party gave visible satisfaction to the keepers, 
as well as to the crouching multitude around. When we turned 
away, the procession was again formed, and marched off in the direc- 
tion it had come. 

At the request of Piadade, we now followed him about a hundred 
yards, and, passing through a gate, found ourselves in the Wat-P'hra- 
si-ratanat, or great temple of the king. We , were bewildered and 
dazzled by the splendor of gilt obelisks and temples sparkling in the 
sun. We stood under a broad corridor, surrounding the whole area, 
the sides of which are certainly not less than one hundred yards long. 
The pavement was chunamed, and shone like polished marble. The 
walls were painted in numerous quaint figures, in bright colors, re- 
presenting events in the history of Guatama and the magnificent 
kingdom of Thai. How much did these walls express, had we been 
able to comprehend their language! 

We were hurried to a great temple in the area. The walls were 
cunningly inlaid with gems, and the roof and cornices were richly 
gilt and enamelled. We ascended a half dozen steps upon the floor 
of a magnificent portico. The door of ebony inlaid with ivory, stood 
open; but a splendid screen hid the interior of the sanctuary. We 
entered, and were not less dazzled with the view before us, than we 
had been by that of the outside walls. The ceiling was lofty 
and curiously carved. A large cut glass chandalier hung from its 
centre, and many Chinese paintings and lamps were suspended 
around the walls. A subdued light disclosed the great altar of 
Boudha, not far from the middle of the temple. Its whole structure 
is of a pyramidal form, and is about thirty feet high. Two or three 
wax-tapers were burning at its base, and there was a rug spread be- 
fore them on the floor. A large lotus plant, at least five feet high, 
of virgin gold, stood upon the left. Numerous small figures of the 
god surrounded the richly carved altar, which was surmounted by a 



THE queen's WAT — SACRED LIBRARY. 323 

figure of Boudha, two feet high, said to be cut out of a single eme- 
rald. This idol has two brilliants, flashing light through the temple, in 
place of eyes, which cost in Brazil $20,000. The value of the whole 
god is inestimable. I doubted its genuineness, but Momfanoi assured 
me he was positive that it was an emerald, and not a beryl, as I sug- 
gested. 

We hastened from this temple to a second, smaller in size, desig- 
nated, I believe, as the queen's wat. In our walk to it, we passed 
many small figures, scattered through the paved area, amon^ beds of 
flowers and lotus plants, representing elephants, horses, &c. The 
wat is white, and of a very chaste architecture. Within are three 
figures of Boudha, the past, present, and future, in white marble^ one 
seated behind and higher than the other. They were surrounded by 
diamonds and gems of all kinds, suspended in festoons, in bunches, 
and a variety of forms. 

Between the two wats is the library of sacred books, called, in the 
Bali language, Promodop. It is remarkable that in most religions, 
the priests have shut up the spirit and letter of their faith in some 
strange or forgotten tongue, and thereby adding to its mysteries, 
which are always caught at by the vulgar. The exterior form of the 
library resembles the numerous * prachadis' or obelisks within the 
area of the temple. An ascent of two or three flights of stairs con- 
ducted us into a room about eighteen feet square. In the centre 
stood a prachadi of ebony, inlaid with ivory and mother of pearl, of 
the exact form of the exterior edifice containing it, and occupying 
about one-third of the area of the room, the rest of which was covered 
with a mat of fine silver, wrought of thin bars about a quarter of an 
inch wide. In this beautiful casket repose the learned dogmas of 
the false faith of millions. 

From this we strolled, almost bewildered, among beds of flowers, 
and prachadis, fifty in number, each ornamented by carving, figures 
of Boudha, and gilding. Aladin's lamp never called up anything 
comparable to the Wat-P'hra-si-ratanat, in gorgeous ornament, or 
display of wealth in gold, in gems and in art. The greatest travel- 
lers among us declared its beauties exceeded any thing they had be- 
fore seen in any part of the world. The first glance was enough to 
enchant one of his senses. I wandered through the labyrinth, which 
is no doubt regular though cunningly planned, as one in a dream. 
The merry brain of a poetic beggar in a state of intoxication might 
possibly imagine something resembling it in character, but infinite 
credulity, aided by the most vivid imagination, would scarcely believe 



324 SIAMESE PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 

in the existence of such a place, were it described in detail; I had 
no definite idea of the place an hour after I left it. 

There is no one thing in it grand or imposing. It bears no im- 
press of a master genius; yet, there is nothing mean, or inelegant, or 
untasteful. There are paintings by the best masters of the Chinese 
schools; there are beds of flowers; pools in stone basins, upon which 
floats the sacred lotus; gems of all kinds, and of great price; gold in 
abundance; carving and inlaid work of ebony, and ivory, and tor- 
toise shell; marble; — the impression of a chaos of elegancies rests upon 
mj mind. 

To have an idea of this temple it must be seen, but to comprehend 
its details one should live in it a month. It must be borne in mind, 
the Siamese are under the belief that their happiness in the next 
world will be in proportion to the honors they do their god in this, 
and that this temple is the labor of successive monarchs, bjgoted and 
zealous in their faith, who expended all their talents, and all the na- 
tion's gold in its construction. 

In our last walk round the corridor we met a young prince of 
about fourteen. A rich sarong girded his loins, and the rest of his 
body was almost hidden under jewels; anklets and bracelets of gems 
surrounded his limbs, and chains of gold, curiously wrought, hung 
round his neck in profusion. A princess of fewer years accompa- 
nied him. She wore a chased fig leaf of gold, and stood, like mother 
Eve, all naked, but not alone. The complexions of these two indi- 
viduals were much lighter than those of the numerous male and fe- 
male servants in their train. They were the fairies of the scene. 
They stopped to gratify their curiosity by gazing a,t us, and we imi- 
tated them, and returned the compliment. We here received a 
message from His Magnificent Majesty, expressing his good will to 
us and all Americans, and a wish that we would examine and look 
at every thing freely, and without constraint. 

We took leave of the temple, fully impressed that it is well worth 
seeing, but not worth a voyage from Europe or the United States to 
see; and, after a few minutes' conversation with the Prince, who had 
been all the while sitting in the shade with his noble friends, re- 
turned to our place of sojourn. Our descriptigjis were cautiously re- 
ceived by those who did not accompany us, but they afterwards de- 
clared them to be far short of the truth. For the sake of our veracity, 
I hope the reader will bear this in mind. 

Commodore Kennedy was taken seriously indisposed, and we 
learned, with regret, that the dreadful disease, Asiatic cholera, had 



RETURN TO PAKNAM THE GOVERNOR. 325 

appeared on board ship, and that a seaman, Daniel K. Thomas, had 
fallen the first victim. Under these circumstances, I bade farewell 
to Bankok, and, earlj in the day of the 12th of April, set off with the 
Commodore, in his gig, under a glaring sun, and without a breeze. 

At four o'clock, P. M., we landed at Paknam, after a sultry pull 
of seven hours. The governor was sulky, and seemed to think he 
had already seen enough of us. I charged him with insolence, and 
delivered him a letter from the acting P'hra Klang, enjoining him, 
at the peril of his shoulders and head, to treat us with all the atten- 
tion and hospitality in his power. He at once apologized for the re- 
ception he had given us, on the plea of indisposition, and ordered 
supper, which was mean in the extreme, consisting of rice, fried fish, 
and boiled duck eggs, all cold. 

The Commodore retired to his mat, overcome by the fatigues of 
his journey and indisposition, and I, after insisting that a better sup- 
per should be furnished, sought repose on a bamboo settee, while His 
Excellency sat doggedly smoking his long pipe. He is subject to 
frequent corporeal castigation for his petty delinquencies, and re- 
ceives the paltry salary of eighty ticals ($53 33^ cents) per annumi 
so that he literally gets '*as many kicks as half pence," though de- 
serving many more of the former. 

Before sunset, a party of officers, that had left the city before us, 
arrived. The servants now bustled about, and set a table, under the 
superintendence of an interpreter, who professed to be well skilled 
*'in custom of Europe gentleman." He was an active, officious, 
half caste Portuguese, in a dirty sarong, and a beggar withal. After 
the table was spread, he reviewed it very carefully, and, to give the 
whole a proper polish, as well as to enhance his own qualifications 
in our eyes, commenced wiping out the tumblers with his naked fin- 
gers, which had been last applied to scratching his own sweaty skin. 
He was reprimanded for this proceeding, showed much contrition 
for his error, and retrieved himself, gathered from the floor pieces of 
waste paper, which had enveloped tobacco or cigars, and began anew 
to clean the soiled glasses. In spite of disgust, we could not but 
laugh at his notion of "custom of Europe gentleman." 

We had fallen very much in the estimation of the people of Pak- 
nam, and even the servants were disposed to be disrespectful. A 
young slave, on being directed to bring fire to light a cigar, flung the 
match across the floor at my feet. 

With these people a positive, and almost imperative manner is the 
most successful. If intercourse be attempted, on an equal footing, 
they become arrogant, and, consequently, insolent. 



326 CHOLERA ON BOARD SHIP ^THE KING OF LAGOR. 

At daylight, next daj, we left Paknam, and reached the ship at 
ten o'clock, A. M., and, the same day, another party of officers set 
out for the city. 

Though a second individual had died of cholera, (William Wag- 
goner, marine,) it was very satisfactory to find the epidemic had 
abated. Soon as it had made its appearance on board, the ship was 
got under way, and kept close hauled upon a wind, and, her sides 
being alternately offered to the breeze, was thus kept thoroughly 
ventilated. Though all the cases on the list wore the type of cho- 
lera, cold shrivelled surface, with blue nails, no new case occurred, 
nor did any one terminate fatally after the ship was under way. The 
disease prevailed at Chantibun, epidemically, about a hundred miles 
from the anchorage, and sporadically at Bankok. No cases occurred 
on board of the Enterprise. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

SKETCHES IN SIAM. 

Mprily 1836. 

Q^ the 12th of April, Mr. Roberts had an interview with the ra- 
jah or king of Lagor, who had been appointed by His Magnificent 
Majesty, to settle the important matter of affixing the regal seals to 
the Siamese copy of the treaty exchanging, as well as to the certificate 
of ratification. 

The rajah is the monarch or rather viceroy of Lagor, a tributary 
state to Siam, situated on the Malay Peninsula. The object of his 
present visit to Bankok, was to assist at a funeral ceremony, which 
took place eight days before our arrival. Six months ago the only 
legitimate son of the king diedj and, according to the Siamese cus- 
tom — ^and *^old custom," with them is as binding as law — the body 
was embalmed, and recently committed to the funeral pile.* So im- 

* The process of embalming is fully described in Finlayson's " Mission to 
Siam and Hue." London, 1826. 



ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD OF THE KINg's JUNK. 327 

portant was this ceremony, that all the tributary princes and go- 
vernors of the empire were summoned on this occasion by his Magni- 
ficent Majesty. 

On landing, Mr. Roberts was met by the king of Lagor, seated on 
a palanquin, consisting of a cushioned seat, borne on two poles, with 
his bare legs hanging down on each side. He was followed by many 
attendants, one of them bearing a large silk umbrella over his head. 
So soon as the interpreter came up, the king offered an apology for 
not inviting Mr. Roberts to his house, at the same time requesting 
his company on board of his junk. His house was merely a bamboo 
shed, and preferring to spend his time in his own country, he will not 
build himself a palace, as he has been urged to do, because, so long 
as he has none, he ever has a ready excuse for making brief visits. 
He is short and fleshy, and possesses an agreeable countenance and 
polite manners. He is sixty-one years of age, a talented minister 
and the oldest courtier in Siam. 

The sword of Mr. Taylor attracted his attention, and he requested 
permission to examine it, and for the purpose put on his spectacles. 
He regretted that no business could be transacted that day, and 
hoped, Mr. Roberts would not be angry for causing him so much un- 
necessary trouble. 

While on board of the junk, tea was served in earthen pots, and 
drunk from porcelain cups without saucers. A tea pot and cup 
were placed before each person present, on a salver of pure gold, 
set with precious stones. Water basins and cups, chunam box and 
spittoons of fine gold, were borne on salvers of the same metal. 
Fruit and confectionary were presented on salvers six feet in cir- 
cumference, with pedestals two feet high, of richly embossed silver. 
Silver spoons and forks were on the several dishes from which 
they were expected to help themselves, without using a separate 
plate. The king was very polite, and often helped his guests with 
his own hands. 

At eight o'clock the following morning, Mr. Roberts, accompanied 
by Mr. Taylor, again waited on the Rajah on board his junk. They 
were received by the Rajah's eldest son, a young man of twenty-two, 
who entertained them with tea, eggs, &c. , in the same style as oa 
the preceding day. The Rajah soon made his appearance, and stated 
that the royal seal of Siam could be affixed only to the certificate of 
ratification. Mr. Roberts replied, that the king in the preamble, had 
promised to afiix his seal to the articles of the treaty, and he would 
therefore unquestionably do so; and that it was indispensably neces- 



328 SIAMESE CURIOSITY ETiqUETTE. 

sary to the certificate; for the treaty could not be considered as rati- 
fied without it. After some discussion, the Rajah unwillingly 
yielded the point, and declared it should be completed in accordance 
with Mr. R — 's wishes. 

One of the secretaries requested a list of the officers who had 
visited the Wat-P'hra-si-ratanat a day or two previous, that it might 
be entered on the archives of the government. 

The curiosity excited by the officers among the Siamese was al- 
most unrestrainable. We were frequently felt of from head to foot, 
and to-day the Rajah had his hands in Mr. Taylor's pockets, while, at 
the same time, his son had rolled up his pantaloons to feel of his 
boot-leg. The Rajah, his son and two grand-children, wore, round 
their waists, besides the sarong, cream-coloured crape shawls of 
beautiful texture. The Siamese, like the Chinese, wear the finger 
nails very long, and the ladies have them sometimes tipped with 
silver. 

About eleven o'clock, Momfanoi, accompanied by another prince 
and a medical practitioner, on their way to visit his priestly brother, 
who was unwell, appeared on board. The Rajah left his seat, and 
knelt upon the deck during the visit, and Momfanoi assumed the va- 
cated place. The prince was pleased to say, on this occasion, that 
the swords, the genuineness of which had been doubted at first, as he 
remarked, only by "small officers," however, had been tested by the 
king's assayer, and were pronounced to be good gold. This doubt had 
arisen from an appearance of verdigris at a point in the brazing, and 
from their light color. The Siamese use no alloy in their manufactured 
gold, which is very fine and of a very deep color, almost orange. The 
prince who accompanied Momfanoi, though on terms of intimacy and 
in the boat sitting on the same seat with him, so soon as he got on 
board the junk, made his obeisance in form, and took a seat a little 
above the Rajah. The costume of both was simple, but costly. The 
under garment was of purple silk with a highly embroidered edge, 
over which was an exquisite scarf. When they took leave, the Ra- 
jah resumed his seat. 

At one o'clock, P. M., a dinner consisting of soups, curries, cut- 
lets, ducks, chickens and pork, with fruit and sweatmeats, was 
served up in gold and silver. There were twenty-six dishes for 
three persons, and no fewer than fifty-four gold vessels were used in 
the entertainment. There was no ostentation or seeming attempt at 
display; all appeared to be a matter of every day occurrence. The 
hospitable old Rajah forced upon the plates of his guests, litchis, from 



MEASUREMENT OF THE MARIA THERESA. 329 

China and * Romania,' a fruit resembling a date. He sat quietly the 
while chewing his betel, but occasionally got upon the table, that he 
might'the more readily assist and point out to his guests those arti- 
cles he himself liked most. While arranging the dishes, the ser- 
vants did not hesitate to mount the table and walk about upon the 
cloth. Before dinner was over, Momfanoi again visited the junk, 
when the same ceremonies as on his first visit were enacted^ and 
after his departure the Rajah again took his seat. 

At the end of nine hours the certificate of ratification, in Siamese, 
Chinese, Portuguese and English, w^as ready to be appended to the 
treaty. The same labor would have been performed in the United 
States, or Europe, in one-third of the time. 

On the same evening Mr. Roberts waited on the acting P'hra Klang, 
to discuss a difficulty which had arisen, under the third article of the 
treaty, relative to the measurement of the brig Maria Theresa. Mr. 
Roberts stated that the officers of the government had measured from 
outside to outside of the vessel, instead of the deck. The P'hra Klang 
insisted that such was the manner of measuring both Siamese and Chi- 
nese junks, the^decks of which extend between the timbers. Mr. 
Roberts remarked, that the treaty had reference only to American 
built vessels. The P'hra Klang replied, it was, "an old custom, and 
therefore could not be altered." Mr. Roberts observed, then he 
should recommend the captain to protest at home against the viola- 
tion of the treaty, which would be referred to the government at 
Washington, and result in an unpleasant controversy between the two 
countries. But as nothing could be decided without reference to the 
king, Mr. Roberts took leave and visited him on another occasion. 

The minister appeared to be inflexible. Mr. Roberts then stated, 
that unless American vessels were measured in conformity to the third 
article of the treaty, it would become his duty to make it known forth- 
with to the government of the United States, and added, that the Cap- 
tain of the Maria Theresa would certainly protest against such de- 
parture from the treaty. During the day the brig had been measured, 
but Mr. Roberts had net been informed of it until after this discussion. 

The captain and supercargo were now sent for, and stated, the ves- 
sel had been measured, by taking half her length, and at that point, 
to ascertain her breadth of beam. The deck was there measured 
across from one water-way seam to tbe other, entirely omitting the 
water-ways, and taking in only a part of the gunwale, which mode 
was so favorable as to lessen the duties in the amount 170 ticals. 
The P'hra Klang asked whether they were satisfied with the mode 
42 



330 AUDIENCE WITH THE KING OF SIAM. 

of measurement. They replied, " Entirely so." " Then," said the 
P'hra Klang, " I am glad all difficulties have been surmounted; this 
shall be the precedent for measuring all American vessels in fu- 
ture." 

The sixteenth of April had been appointed, four or five days pre- 
viously, for admitting the American Embassy to an audience Vi^ith 
the king. The day was oppressively hot, the thermometer in an airy 
apartment, standing at 98° F. It was calm, and not a breath ruffied 
the tranquil bosom of the river. It was like a stream of molten gold, 
stirred only by numerous gondolas, skimming with feathery light- 
ness over its bright surface. Many had been called forth to view the 
passing procession, and many crowded the verandas of the floating 
houses, though no " Morning Herald," or " Evening Post," circulates 
the news through this vast population; they seemed to be aware of 
the event from instinct. 

At nine o'clock, accompanied by twenty-two officers from the 
squadron, in full dress, and the master and supercargo of the Maria 
Theresa, Mr. Roberts embarked in three gondolas, each rowed by 
thirty oars. Though permission had been granted for the gentlemen 
of the Maria Theresa, the request of Mr. Roberts in behalf of the 
American missionaries was refused, on the ground that it was not 
according to Siamese custom. 

The boats proceeded at a rapid rate, our band making the still air 
resound with " Hail Columbia," and we all wondered at the crowds 
of spectators who awaited our landing. Orderlies armed with rat- 
tans and bamboos, which were not spared on the naked backs of the 
Siamese, were constantly active in making w^ay forthe procession. 

On entering the first gate, they found a number of fleet ponies, 
caparisoned in the eastern style, and each attended by two grooms. 
The scene was as novel to the animals as to the American officers; 
and they testified their impatience by kicking their mettlesome heels 
merrily among the crowd. Here the procession was joined by several 
Arabs, Persians and Jews, in the rich costumes of their respective 
countries. After some little delay, arising from selecting horses, 
the company was mounted, the short stirrups bringing the knees 
almost to the chin, and made way through the multitude to the second 
gate, where the officers left their swords, it being contrary to eti- 
quette to appear armed in the presence of Siamese royalty. 

They were received in the Hall of Justice by the Phya-pi-pat-kosa, 
who was, as usual, full of life and conversation. Water, betel and 
cigars were offered. While waiting for the king to signify his readi- 



AUDIENCE CHAMBERo 331 

ness to receive them, they found time to discover a large green snake 
coiling itself among the tiles of the Hall, over their heads. Lizards 
and ge-kos were numerous. The Siamese expressed their astonish- 
ment that such trifles should attract attention; habit makes men in- 
different to the most loathsome objects. 

At the second gate, files of soldiers encumbered with uniforms of 
red and green, and arms, which they could scarcely manage, amount- 
ing to several thousands, lined the various avenues. The bayonets 
were fixed with the scabbards upon them. The artillery were armed 
with sheathed broad-swords, and stood with the hand upon the hilt, 
ready to draw. Pikemen and clubmen also appeared in the military 
array. Whoever has seen at any large theatre, a grand army, badly 
drilled, may imagine the Siamese troops, and conceive what genuine 
" food for powder," they would make before a handful of disciplined 
troops. 

At this gate the band was compelled to await the return of the em- 
bassy. 

At the Hall of Justice, the elephants were paraded as on a former 
occasion. The crowd was great, but whenever they encroached 
beyond bounds, they were at once severely repulsed by the rattan. 
At the end of a half hour, the procession again moved forward 
through two other gates. The number of troops was here much aug- 
mented, and near the palace, was a body armed with shields and 
swords. On each side of the path, along which the procession ad- 
vanced, were ranged three hundred musicians in double files, screech- 
ing out on hautboys and beating on tom-toms, producing a most per- 
cusive monotony. Here the walks became broader. The eye now 
and then caught a glimpse of a rich building, or spire glittering in 
the sun, through the foliage of the trees and shrubbery planted in the 
enclosures. 

The exterior of the audience hall is not very remarkable^ It has 
three entrances on each side, the doorways are ornamented with 
carving and Boudhist divinities, and within stood screens, painted in 
quaint devices, which conceal the interior. 

The extent of the audience chamber is thirty-five by seventy feet. 
The middle of the floor, about one-half of the whole width, is raised 
eighteen inches above the rest, leaving a sort of lobby on each side, 
equal to one-fourth of the breadth of the whole room, and extending 
its entire length. A row of six pillars, three feet square, stood on 
each edge of the middle floor. The walls, ceiling, and pillars, were 
hung with red gilt paper, and the floors were carpeted. Chandeliers 



532 HIS MAGNIFICENT MAJESTY AND HIS MAGNIFICENT COURT. 

and lamps of various patterns were suspended from the ceiling, and 
numerous Chinese paintings and mirrors adorned the walls. From a 
central point, the floor gently rises in an inclined plain up to the 
throne, at the farthest end of the apartment. The throne itself is 
about six feet high, and large enough for one man to sit upon cross- 
legged; it is of gold, or richly gilt, and ornamented with diamonds 
and other precious stones. Behind it is a piece of ornamental archi- 
tecture resembling an altar. A royal chat, an umbrella having five 
tops, one above the other, and diminishing in size, shades the mo- 
narch's seat; and on each side, extending to the pillars, were six other 
chats or chattalis, arranged so as to form an arc, which separates the 
king and court. 

Mr. Roberts and his companions entered the middle door of the 
front of the hall, and, passing round the screen, found themselves in 
the presence of his Magnificent Majesty, and the royal court of the 
magnificent kingdom of Thai. His Majesty, a plump fat man of 
about fifty, sat like the god Boudah, cross-legged upon his throne, en- 
veloped in a rich mantle of gold tissue, chewing betel, and squirting 
saliva into a golden urn. Numerous attendants prepared his betel, 
and with large fans circulated the air about his Majestic Obesity, as 
he sat in the pomp and circumstance of state. 

Except a long space, eight feet wide, in front of the throne, the 
whole floor was covered by nobles, courtiers and magnates of the 
land, in silk and gold costume, the fashion of which, was a long tight 
jacket with short skirts, somewhat resembling the cut of an ancient 
coat of mail. There were several Arabs and Persians present, in 
rich Cashmere shawl turbans, contrasting their splendid statures with 
the squat forms of the Siamese; and their expressive countenances, 
strongly marked by the jetty whisker and antimony-shaded eye, out- 
shone them in intelligence. Perhaps three hundred individuals com- 
posed this goodly company; every one crouching upon his knees and 
elbows, and the head bent upon the ground. The hall admitted only 
a subdued light. Jewels appeared to advantage, and the diamonds 
and carbuncles on the king's person glittered and flashed all around 
like miniature lightning. 

It was particularly remarked by several officers, that, notwithstand- 
ing the stipulation that our officers should not appear, in the pre- 
sence, armed, being contrary to court etiquette, many of the Siamese 
wore swords. 

Such was the spectacle, hall and court presented when the Ame- 
rican embassy passed the screen. There they removed their hats. 



FORM OF CONVERSING WITH HIS MAGNIFICENT MAJESTY. 333 

and, as they advanced to the open alley above mentioned, made three 
bows according to previous agreement. At the lowest end of this 
alley, at a great distance from the throne, they sat down upon the 
carpet, carefully turning their feet behind, that His Magnificent Ma- 
jesty might not be shocked by the sight of those lowly, booted mem- 
bersj for they did not consent, like the Anglo-Bengal mission under 
Mr. Burney, to leave their shoes outside and appear barefoot, at 
the risk of finding, as he did, that they had been stolen. 

Previous to his audience with the king in 1833, when negotiating 
the treaty which was now being concluded, Mr. Roberts positively 
refused to take off his shoes to enter the presence, except on the con- 
dition, that he should keep on his hat. After a great deal of discus- 
sion, the condition was agreed to, and he was the first foreigner who, 
with his shoes on, saw his Majesty of Siam. 

After being seated in this novel, and therefore somewhat uncom- 
fortable position, they made three Siamese salams, and the whole 
court knocked their heads three tinies on the ground j and His Mag- 
nificent Majesty expressed his satisfaction by squirting saliva into 
the golden spittoon, and renewing his quid of betel and arecanut. 

In front of the mission were displayed a part of the presents 
brought by Mr. Roberts, the whole being too bulky for such a pageant. 
Immediately after the salams were performed, a low, murmuring 
sound arose from behind the throne, which, the interpreter stated,^ 
proceeded from the king's secretary, reading the list of presents 
from the government of the United States to His Magnificent Ma- 
jesty. 

This over, the king addressed to Mr. Roberts several questions,, 
which were filtered through three interpreters or secretaries. One 
crouched near the throne, and repeated, in a low tone. His Majesty's 
words to another, more than halfway down the hall, who repeated 
them in a still lower tone to Piadade, the interpreter, who, being 
crouched near Mr. Roberts, whispered the sentence in his ear. The 
replies were made through the same medium in the same manner. 

When the king finishes his question, the secretary makes three 
salams and mentions the king's titles before he repeats to the second, 
and he goes through the same ceremony to the third. The answer 
begins with three salams from the interpreter, who repeats a string 
of titles, "P'hra, Putie, Chucka, Ka, Rap, Si, Klau, Si, Kla, Mom, 
Ka P'rah Putie Chow," Mr. Roberts, " Ka P'hra Racha, Tan, Krap, 
Thun, Hie, Sap, Thi, Fa, La, Ong, Thule, P'hra, Bat;" then follows 
the answer and three salams. As this form is invariable, it may be 



334 CLOSING THE AUDIENCE. 

readily conceived how slow and fatiguing intercourse with His Ma- 
jesty must be. Nor is one certain that his expressions or words are 
faithfully conveyed to the *' golden ear." Mr. Robert Hunter told 
me, that some years ago, he had an audience with the king, who in- 
quired whether he was not then making a great deal of money, in 
his business. Mr. Hunter replied, that at first he had done very 
well, but for the past year he had lost a great deal. The interpre- 
ter conveyed the answer thus; *' Mr. Hunter made money very fast, 
the first years, but the last, he has not made so much." When Mr. 
Hunter explained the difference he had made in the answer, the in- 
terpreter replied, that he dared not tell His Magnificent Majesty 
any thing so unpleasant as to say, " Mr. Hunter had actually lost 
money!" 

A similar incident occurred in the present audience. The king 
stated that the Americans were on a footing with the English, which 
Mr. Roberts denied; saying, that such was not the spirit of the treaty. 
The secretary nearest the king translated the reply; that Mr. Roberts 
admitted it, and was very much obliged to His Majesty, Mr. Hun- 
ter, who was present, informed Mr. Roberts of the misinterpretation. 
He repeated what he had first said, which was then correctly ren- 
dered. 

During the interview, the king inquired after the health of the 
President, after that, of " all the great men of the United States," 
that of the crews of the Peacock and Enterprise; when they left 
America; where they had been; what had beep Mr. Roberts' state 
of health in the three years he had been absent from Siam, &c. 

At the expiration of three quarters of an hour, a sharp metallic 
sound was heard, and the audience was closed by drawing a curtain 
of silk and gold across the hall, in front of the throne, hiding His 
Majesty from view. The embassy then made three salams, and the 
whole court bent their heads three times to the floor. 

During the audience water and betel were served. As the cham- 
ber was open, swallows flew in and out, and occasionally alighted on 
the chandeliers. 

The gentlemen were now conducted to see His Majesty's stud, 
several elephants, and, last, the Wat, which has been already de- 
scribed. 



DELIVERY OF THE SIAMESE TREATY. 335 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

SKETCHES IN SIAM. 

April, 1836, 

The eighteenth of April had been appointed for the delivery of 
the copy of the treaty, ratified on the part of Siam. The barge of cere- 
mony in which we had come from the ship was ready to returno 
Owing to a superstitious notion of the Siamese, that it would bring 
misfortune upon any house, into which it should enter, after being 
delivered into our hands, the treaty was to be received on board the 
vessel, and not landed again, on any account, as such an act would be 
the cause of distress in many minds. 

About one o'clock P. M., Mr. Roberts was informed that the golden 
barges of the king were in sight. Accompanied by the officers in full 
dress and the band, he repaired to the vessel of ceremony, where he 
found the Phya-pi-pat-kosa had already arrived. There were three 
long barges, richly gilt, decorated with pennons, and each rowed by 
one hundred oars. The curtains were of cloth of gold with scarlet 
ground. That which bore the treaty led the van. The treaty was 
in a box, covered with coarse yellow silk interwoven with gold. This 
was placed on a silver dish, which rested on a salver with a high foot 
of the same metal. Over it hung a scarlet canopy, itself shaded by 
a royal chat. The scarlet uniforms of the men, and the measured 
stroke of their hundred oars| the flaunting banners, the music of their 
pipes and drums, and the glitter of gold and silver in the sun, formed 
a pretty pageant, and indicated with what scrupulous ceremony ey ery 
thing is conducted at the Magnificent Court of Siam. 

As the casket was raised, the Siamese band played plaintively and 
soft. The Phya-pi-pat-kosa conveyed it to Mr. Roberts, at the same 
time making a salam, to the royal seal, attached to the treaty. Mr. 
Roberta received it, and, in respect to the king, raised it as high as 



336 THE EMBASSY LEAVES BANKOK. 

liis head, at the same time our band struck up **Hail Columbia." 
He then placed it upon a stand which had been provided, and depo- 
sited it in the cabin of the junk of ceremony. 

Speed J preparations were now made for leaving Bankok. Mr. 
Roberts, in his private capacity, signed a memorial to the Chao Phya 
P'hra Klang from the missionaries, praying that sufficient ground 
might be allotted to them, whereon to erect a church and suitable 
dwellings, with permission to appropriate a part as a place of sepul- 
ture, the same having been granted to the Portuguese Roman Catho- 
lics, Mussulmans, Chinese, and others. 

Before leaving the house wherein the embassy was lodged, the 
Phya-Ratsa-pa-vade paid a farewell visit, attended by a numerous 
retinue. He expressed a strong feeling in behalf of Americans, and 
requested Mr. Roberts to furnish American ship-masters coming to 
Siam with letters to him, that he might, to the best of his abilities, 
facilitate their business. He assured Mr. Roberts, that he was en- 
tirely disinterested, and would receive no compensation for any ser- 
vice he might render. To manifest his regard for Mr. Roberts, he 
presented him with several toys for his children, but Mr. Roberts 
would receive no present /or himself from any individual of the 
court. 

In the evening Mr. Roberts paid a final visit to the Phya-si-pi-pat, 
and met there the Phya-pi-pat-kosa. He was entertained by a band 
of amateur musicians, playing singly and in concert, on instruments 
resembling guitars, hautboys, &c. It was stated, that the Siamese 
use more than a hundred different musical instruments. 

At midnight, the embassy being concluded, the junk of ceremony 
weighed anchor, and was towed by three galleys, assisted by the ebb 
tide. At noon the next day, they anchored at Paknam; and at mid- 
night again got under way, and reached the ship about noon, on the 
twentieth of April.* 

Of the history of Siam, we have been able to collect very little in- 
formation. It appears to have early attracted the attention of com- 
mercial adventurers from Europe, and as early as 1610, an English 
factory was established at Bankok, by Captain Middleton, which sub- 
sisted for some years^ but it appears to have been withdrawn subse- 
-quetit to 1623, when the King of Siam, and the English at Jacatra 

• For a histoiy of tlie events which transpired at Bankok, after my departure 
from that city on the 12th of April, I am indebted to Mr. Roberts, and to Mr. Wnj. 
Rogers Taylor, of the Navy, who kindly placed their journals in my hands. 



HISTORY OF SIAM. 337 

were in correspondence. In 1662, the king expressed a desire that 
the English should settle a factory in his dominions, though the Dutch 
had at that time a large commercial intercourse with Siam, lading 
their forty ships yearly. In 1664, they quarrelled with the king, and 
the next year, threw obstructions in the way of the English trade in 
those seas, which was the chief object, that provoked their jealousy 
and resentment. The settling of a factory was, under these cir- 
cumstances, deferred, although, it is stated, about this time the na- 
tion was in high favor with the King of Siam, who gave them a re- 
commendation to the Emperor of Japan, whose sister he had mar- 
ried. The subject was resumed in 1671, and the directors of the 
English company approved the proposal of establishing a ftictory at 
Bankok, if practicable. In 1674, the king renewed his overtures for 
an English factory in his dominions, which was accordingly esta- 
blished in 1676, with the view of eventually opening a trade with 
Japan. At the commencement of this intercourse great expectations 
were formed of the tin trade of Siam, which was then almost exclu- 
sively in the hands of the Dutch; and it was thought that the Siam 
trade generally would prove more beneficial than even that of Japan, 
That country was also considered capable of affording a market for 
a great quantity of broad-cloth; and the English agent at Bantam, 
wrote to the King of Siam, recommending to him the encouragement 
of a broad- cloth trade, as necessary to the maintenance of an Eng- 
lish factory in his dominions. In 1679, it was discovered that Siam 
itself consumed but little broad-cloth; the sale of that commodity de- 
pending on China and Japan; it was therefore decided the next year, 
to recall the factory from Bankok. But in 1683, and 1684, it was 
resolved to re-establish it, the station being favorable to the prosecu- 
tion of a Japan trade, in which great hopes were indulged. Accord- 
ingly, Sir John Child, in 1685, addressed a letter to the Prime Mi- 
nister of Siam, explaining the difference between the Company's ser- 
vants and private traders, concerning which somfe misunderstandings 
had arisen. Another letter was afterwards addressed to the king. 
It was observed, that this prince was favorably disposed towards fo- 
reigners, and that Siam was a place of considerable commerce; and 
therefore, the Company's former losses were to be attributed to mis- 
management, and the malignity of the prime minister, Constantine 
Faulcon. 

In 1687, an insurrection of the Macassars took place at Bankok, 
by which the country was thrown into confusion, and the prime mi- 
nister narrowly escaped. The Macassarese were all destroyed. The 
43 



338 HISTORY OF SIAM. 

Company's losses arising out of the troubles, as appears from a letter 
from the President of Fort St. George to the King of Siam, dated in 
1687, amounted to ^65,000, for which satisfaction was demanded, 
or war would be declared. The next year there was a massacre at 
Bankok. The Company were also advised that six French men-of- 
war, with 1,400 soldiers had arrived to assist the king, and that Con- 
stantine Faulcon had been made a Count of France. 

In 1705, the Governor of Fort St. George addressed a letter to 
the King of Siam, desiring a renewal of former friendship, which had 
been interrupted by the ambitious minister. In 1712, the P'hra 
Klang invited them to make a settlement, offering the same facilities 
as had been granted to the Dutch. At this time, however, Siam ap- 
pears to have been in a state of internal disorder, and to have con- 
tinued so for many years afterwards.* 

In 1822, the Anglo-Bengal government despatched a mission to 
Bankok, under Mr. Crawfurd, accounts of which were published by 
him, and by Mr. Finlayson, both of which have already been referred 
to. Mr. Crawfurd formed a treaty of amity and commerce, which is 
probably advantageous to English trade. In 1833, the government 
of the United States sent an agent to the capital of Siam, who suc- 
ceeded in negotiating a treaty, which was ratified by both govern- 
ments, and exchanged in April, 1836. 

As early as 1672, the Siamese evinced a very friendly disposition 
towards the French, and particularly towards Louis XIV., which is 
attributed to the labors of some French missionaries who visited Ban- 
kok about that time. 

At this period, a Greek, or, some say, an Italian adventurer of 
restless and ambitious spirit, named Constantine Faulcon, had so 
crept into the sovereign's favor as to be appointed P'hra Klang. For- 
getting himself in his prosperity, the minister aspired to wear the 
crown, and circumstances seemed to countenance a hope of his suc- 
cess. Opportunity brings out the scoundrel: many a villain has pro- 
bably died with a reputation for virtue, simply because he has never 
been lured to vice by circumstances, offering an easy accomplish- 
ment of his wishes for wealth and aggrandizement. The Prince was 
weak, valetudinary, and without posterity, and his minister ruled 
him, as well as his people, despotically. He formed a project for 
succeeding to the crown, and, it appears, he afterwards treated of 
dethroning his benefactor. For the execution of his plan, he fancied 

♦ Asiatic Journal for 1822. 



HISTORY OF SIA]Vt<r 339 

he could make use of the French, and, in 1684, sent ambassadors to 
France, offering to the monarch the alliance of his master, and to 
the French merchants the ports of Siam. 

The haughty genius of Louis XIV. drew advantages from this em- 
bassy. His flatterers persuaded him that his glory was so universal 
that it attracted to him the homage of the East. He 'despatched a 
squadron, with Jesuits and merchants, and a treaty was concluded 
between the two kings, the French ambassadors acting under the in- 
struction of Father Tachard. The company anticipated great ad- 
vantages from their establishment; and their hopes were not without 
foundation. 

In the sixteenth century, numbers of ships visited the roads of 
Siam, from eastern Asia, when agriculture, mining, and manufactur- 
ing flourished. Soon afterwards, despotism grew to its full height, 
and, consequently, the affairs of the kingdom fell into confusion and 
languor. In this condition of decay, the French found the country 
on their arrival; it was very poor, without arts, and subject to a des- 
pot. The little costly merchandise used in the court, and in the 
houses of the opulent, was from Japan; the Siamese had taken the 
manufactures of that country into exclusive favor, and maintained a 
high respect for the Japanese. 

It was difficult to change their opinions in this respect, however ne- 
cessary it was to do so to effect the sale of French goods. If any thing 
were likely to bring about such a change, it was preaching the chris- 
tian doctrines, which the missionaries had done with some success; 
but the Jesuits were too much attached to Faulcon, and abused their 
favor at court; they became odious, and the odium fell upon the reli- 
gion itself. The people, and particularly the Talapoins, were shocked 
that they should erect churches betbre there were converts enough- 
to require them. 

The French had conceded to them the fort at the mouth of the 
Meinam, and possessed many advantages, which, had they been pro- 
perly managed, might have led to many others* It was an opening 
to the trade of Ava, Pegu, and Laos, but the company's factors and 
officers, their troops and the Jesuits did not perceive it. Finally, 
they became so closely connected with Faulcon, and, lending him 
their aid, that, when the minister fell, just as he was to perpe- 
trate his designs, they were dragged to ruin, and the fortresses of 
Bankok garrisoned by the French, were wrested from them by this 
indolent and cowardly people.* 

* Establecimieiitos UlU-amariiios. Madrid^ 1786 . 



340 TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND 

^ TREATY OF AMITY AND COMMERCE 

Between His Majesty, the Magnificent King of Siam, and 
THE United States of America. 

His Majesty, the Sovereign and Magnificent King in the city of 
Sia-Yut'hia, has appointed the Chao Phaya P'hra-klang, one of the 
first ministers of the state, to treat with Edmund Roberts, Minister 
of the United States of America, who has been sent by the govern- 
ment thereof, on its behalf, to form a treaty of sincere friendship and 
entire good faith between the two nations. For this purpose the Si- 
amese and the citizens of the United States of America shall, with 
sincerity, hold commercial intercourse in the ports of their respective 
nations as long as Heaven and Earth shall endure. 

This treaty is concluded on Wednesday, the last of the fourth 
month of the year 1194, called Pi-marong chatava-sok, (or the year 
of the dragon,) corresponding to the twentieth day of March, in the 
year of our Lord, 1833. One original is written in Siamese, the 
other in English 5 but, as the Siamese are ignorant of English, and the 
Americans of Siamese, a Portuguese and a Chinese translation are 
annexed, to serve as testimony to the contents of the treaty. The 
writing is of the same tenor and date in all the languages aforesaid: 
it is signed, on the one part, with the name of the Chao Phaya P'hra- 
klang, and sealed with the seal of the lotus flower of glass; on the 
other part it is signed with the name of Edmund Roberts, and sealed 
with a seal containing an eagle and stars. 

One copy will be kept in Siam, and another will be taken, by Ed- 
mund Roberts, to the United States. If the government of the 
United States shall ratify the said treaty, and attach the seal of the 
government, then Siam will also ratify it on its part, and attach the 
seal of its government. 

Article I. There shall be a perpetual peace between the United 
States of America and the Magnificent King of Siam. 

Art. II. The citizens of the United States shall have free liberty 
to enter all the ports of the kingdom of Siam, with their cargoes, of 
whatever kind the said cargoes may consist; and, they shall have lib- 
erty to sell the same to any of the subjects of the king, or others, who 
may wish to purchase the same, or barter the same for any produce or 
manufactures of the kingdom, or other articles that may be found there. 
No prices shall be fixed by the officers of the king on the articles to be 
sold by the merchants of the United States, or the merchandise they 



THE MAGNIFICENT KING OF SIAM. 341 

may wish to buy: but the trade shall be free on both sides to sell, buy or 
exchange, on the terms and for the prices the owners may think fit. 
Whenever the said citizens of the United States, shall be ready to de- 
part, they shall be at liberty so to do, and the proper officers shall furnish 
them with passports, provided always, there be no legal impediment 
to the contrary. Nothing contained in this article shall be under- 
stood as granting permission to import and sell munitions of war to 
any person excepting the king, who, if he does not require, will not 
be bound to purchase them; neither is permission granted to import 
opium, which is contraband; or to export rice, which cannot be em- 
barked as an article of commerce. These only are prohibited. 

Art. III. Vessels of the United States entering any port within 
His Majesty's dominions, and selling or purchasing cargoes of mer- 
chandise, shall pay, in lieu of import and export duties, tonnage, license 
to trade, or any other charge whatever, a measurement duty, as fol- 
lows:— -The measurement shall be made from side to side, in the mid- 
dle of the vessel's length, and if a single decked vessel on such sin- 
gle deck; if otherwise, on the lower deck. On every vessel selling 
merchandise, the sum of one thousand seven hundred ticals or bats 
shall be paid for every Siamese fathom in breadth so measured; the 
said fathom being computed to contain seventy-eight English or 
American inches, corresponding to ninety-six Siamese inches: but if 
the said vessel should come without merchandise, and purchase a 
cargo with specie only, she shall then pay the sum of fifteen hundred 
ticals or bats, for each and every fathom before described. Farther- 
more, neither the aforesaid measurement duty nor any other charge 
whatever shall be paid by any vessel of the United States that enters 
a Siamese port for the purpose of refitting, or for refreshments, or to 
inquire the state of the markets. 

Art. IV. If hereafter the duties payable by foreign vessels be 
diminished in favor of any other nation, the same diminution shall be 
made in favor of the vessels of the United States. 

Art. V. If any vessel of the United States shall suffer shipwreck 
on any part of the Magnificent King's dominions, the persons 
escaping from the wreck shall be taken care of, and hospitably en- 
tertained, at the expense of the king, until they shall find an oppor- 
tunity to be returned to their country, and the property saved from 
such wreck shall be carefully preserved and restored to its owners: 
— and the United States will repay all expenses incurred by his ma- 
jesty on account of such wreck. 

Art. VI. If any citizen of the United States coming to Siam for 



342 TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND 

the purpose of trade shall contract debts to any individual of Slam, 
or if any individual of Siam shall contract debts to any citizen of 
the United States, the debtor shall be obliged to bring forward and 
sell all his goods to pay his debts therewith. When the product of 
such bona fide sale shall not suffice, he shall be no longer liable for 
the remainder; nor shall the creditor be able to retain him as a slave, 
imprison, flog or otherwise punish him, to compel the payment of 
any balance; but shall leave him at perfect liberty. 

Art. VII. Merchants of the United States coming to trade in the 
kingdom of Siam, and wishing to rent houses therein, shall rent the 
king's factories and pay the customary rent of the country. If the 
said merchants bring their goods on shore, the king's officers shall 
take account thereof, but shall not levy any duty thereupon. 

Art. VIII. If any citizens of the United States, or their vessels 
or other property shall be taken by pirates and brought within the 
dominions of the Magnificent King, the persons shall be set at liberty 
and the property restored to its owners^ 

Art. IX. -Merchants of the United States trading in the kingdom 
of Siam, shall respect and follow the laws and customs of the coun- 
try in all points. 

Art. X. If hereafter any foreign nation, other than the Portuguese, 
shall request and obtain His Majesty's consent to the appointment of 
consuls to reside in Siam, the United States shall be at liberty to ap- 
point consuls to reside in Siam, equally with such other foreign 
nation. // 

CERTIFICATE OF RATIFICATION. 

" This is to certify, that Edmund Roberts, a Special Envoy of the 
United States of America, delivered and exchanged a ratified treaty 
on the day and date hereafter mentioned, and which was signed and 
sealed in the royal city of Sia-Yut'hia, being the capital of the king- 
dom of Siam, on the twentieth day of March, one thousand eight 
hundred and thirty-three, corresponding to the fourth month of the 
year of the Dragon. 

" In witness whereof, We, the Magnificent King of Siam, do ratify 
and confirm the said Treaty, by affixing hereunto our Royal Seal, as 
well as the seals of all the great ministers of State, at the city of Sia- 
Yut'hia on the fourteenth day of the fifth month of the year, called 
the Monkey, being the Sakarat or year Eleven hundred and ninety - 
eight, and which corresponds to the fourteenth day of the month of 



THil MAGNIFICENT KING OF SIAM. ' 343 

April, being the year of Christ, one thousand and eight hundred and 
thirtj-six." 

Here follow the seven seals of the empire. They are blurred im- 
pressions, in red ink, about two and a half inches in diameter, bear- 
ing curious devices. 

1st. The royal seal of Siam, or P'rah, I, Era Pot, presents an ele- 
phant with three heads, having on each side two royal chats, and 
bearing on his back something resembling a castle; perhaps it is the 
gateway of a wat. 

2d. The device, which is almost illegible, is an animal compounded 
of a dragon, lion, &c. This seal is cdled P'rah E-a-chase, and is 
used by the Chao Phaya Bodin Desha, or Khroma-ha-thai, formerly 
called, Phy a Chakri. He has the general superintendence of the 
northern provinces, adjoining Pegu, and of the principalities of Laos 
and Cambodia. 

3d. The device, a griffin. This is the seal of Chao-Phya-Maha- 
sena, or Khroma Kalahom. He is of equal rank with the last, and 
holds the office of Commander-in-chief of all the land and sea-forces, 
with the general superintendence of the south-western provinces, even 
to that of the last tributary Malay Rajah. 

4th. Is called, Trah Boa Kean. Its device is a Boudha in the 
usual position, holding in one hand a blown lotus flower, and in the 
other its leaf. This is the seal of the ChaoPhya P'rah Klang, or 
Khroma-tha, the minister of commerce and foreign affairs. He su- 
perintends the south-eastern provinces adjoining Cochin-China. 

5th. Is named Trah Prah None Tak An, and the device is an 
angel astride on the shoulders of a man or demon. It is the seal of 
the Chao Phya Therema Terat, or Khroma Wang, governor of the 
royal palace. 

6th. Called Trah P'hra Peroon, the device of which is an angel 
riding on a serpent, holding a flaming sword. This is the seal of the 
Chao Phya Phollatape, or Krohma-na, who is minister of agriculture 
and produce. 

' 7th. Is the Trah, (seal) P'rah Yame Kesing, bearing for device, an 
angel riding a lion and bearing a lance. It is the seal of the Chao 
Phya Somarat, or Yomarat; or Khroma Merang, the minister of 
criminal justice. 

The presents made by the government of the United States, con- 
sisted of lamps. Nankins, carpeting, male and female costumes of 
the United States^ Two very large and elegant mirrors, an Ameri- 



344 TREATY WITH SI AM. 

can flag, shawls, a set of United States' coins, and two splendid 
swords in gold scabbards. 

The Envoy distributed presents among several of the Siamese offi- 
cers, consisting of pistols, fowling-pieces, money, &c. 

The exception of rice as an article of export, made in the second 
article of the above treaty, robs it of a great part of its value, be- 
cause rice is an important article in the trade with China. Vessels 
loaded with it are exempted from paying, what is known as " cura- 
shaw duties," amounting, in many cases, to three thousand dollars; 
and for this reason, they often put into the rice ports of Java, or 
into Manila, on their outward voyage from the United States to 
Canton, to load with this article. Therefore, it is desirable to add 
to the places beyond the Cape of Good Hope whereat rice may be 
iobtained, for the advantage of our Chinese commerce. 



SKETCHES IN COCHIN-CHINA. 



44 



DEPARTURE FROM SIAM. 347 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

SKETCHES IN COCHIN-CHINA. 

May, 1836. 

On the twentieth of April, Mr. Roberts and the officers, all of them 
unwell and some of them seriously ill, returned on board. The Prince 
Momfanoi attempted to visit us, but was so much affected by sea- 
sickness after clearing the mouth of the Meinam, that he put back. 
In testimony of his regard, he sent to several of the officers little curi- 
osities, as books of the talipot leaf, &c., which they reciprocated in 
such books as they thought might be useful and entertaining to him. 
Among them were, Hinton's Views of the United States, Herschell's 
Astronomy, Duponceau's Constitution of the United States, Gobbet's 
Advice, and several works on gunnery and military tactics, &c., far 
exceeding in value the presents of Momfanoi. 

At sunset we were under way, and I believe no one in the squadron 
felt the least regret upon taking a final leave of Siam. In all proba- 
bility not one of us will ever visit it again, and we hope it may be 
long ere any of our ships of war will be found in the waters of the 
gulf. The officers and crews now felt severely the effects of eastern 
tropical climates; all, with few exceptions, had been seriously ill 
once, some of them twice; the past two months had been spent in 
contending against wind and currents; the ship was almost an hos- 
pital; four men had died since leaving Batavia, the provisions were 
of inferior quality, and were fast lessening in quantity; a general 
languor possessed our bodies, and even the stoutest hearts were at 
times dejected. We looked for relief in clearing the gulf, and hoped 
to find fresh and favoring breezes in the China Sea, which would 
soon waft us to some invigorating climate. 

The passage down the gulf of Siam was retarded by calms and 



548 WHITE ANIMALS OF SlAM PULO OBY. 

very light winds. The air was moist and sultry, and the *' sun ap- 
peared as if shining through a wet blanket." The number of sick 
was augmented, and in almost all the cases, as in cholera, the skin 
was cold and clammy — the Genius of the disease still hovering over 
us — evincing a strong predisposition to internal congestions. Nor 
did this state of things change immediately after reaching the China 
Sea^. 

For several days, while in the gulf, we were visited by many pretty 
fly-catchers, which hopped about with perfect confidence, picking up 
flies on deck; they often received food from the hand, and some- 
times, when we were sitting quiet, would alight upon our persons. 
They flew in and out of the cabin during the day, and took shelter 
there at night. 

In the gulf we saw several white dolphins. Siam presents us with a 
great number of animals, which differ in a remarkable manner from the 
same species in other parts of the world. The white elephant, the 
white squirrel, the white ape, the white monkey, white as snow, white 
lizards, white dolphin, &c. Mr. Finlayson is of opinion that they 
are white for the same reason, which is not known, that produces the va- 
riety in the hum^an species, known ak albino. But after a pretty careful 
examination of several of the above animals, T am disposed to differ 
from that gentleman. The iris of the white elephant is not white in 
air specimens; nor vvas it white in any specimen of the white squirrel 
which fell under my observation. 

On the second of May, we v.'ere near the island of Pulo Oby, situ- 
ated in latitude 8° 25' north, not far from the coast of Cambodia, 
which is low and beautifully green. The island is high and clothed 
in a luxuriant vegetation froni its summit to the water's edge; but 
from want of level land, adapted to cultivation, is incapable of sup- 
porting any considerable population, and has only two or three in- 
habitants. It is often visited by' vessels for water, which is of good 
quality and easily procured. 

This day we had the melancholy duty of committing to the deep 
the remains of Henry Mount, (marine,) who died from the effects of 
repeated attacks of dysentery and diarrhoea. 

The next mornins; the Peacock anchored on the northern side of 
the island, and procured about a thousand gallons of water. The 
watering party brought off a pigeon of a yellowish white color, the 
wings tipped with black, several squirrels and crows. 

On the fourth we got under vvay, and pursued our voyage along 
shore, the sea being smooth and the wind fair, but the currciits \^erc 



rULO CONDORE— COAST OF COCIITN-CIIINA. 349 

found to be strong and rapid. The temperature became more tolera- 
ble, but there was no diminution of the sick list. 

On 4;he sixth we passed Pulo Condore, whereon the English had 
an establishment last century; but the colony was cruelly massacred 
by the Malays, since which they have not attempted to make there 
another settlement. On the seventh, all the bread in the ship was 
found to be in a condition of decay, and, after a careful survey, it 
was condemned and thrown overboard, leaving us destitute of every 
article of diet, except hard salted meat and rice. It would be diffi- 
cult to present, to those who did not witness it, an adequate idea of 
the distressing state of thino's existing; on board of the shin. One- 
fourth of the crew were confined, by sickness, to their hammocks, 
and those who were not urider medical treatment, enfeebled by pre- 
vious disease, were scarcely able to move about the decks; and, had 
w'e been so unfortunate as to encounter a gale, I doubt whether the 
physical force on board was sufficient to take care of the ship. It is 
the experience of contrasts like these which endears us to our home, 
and enhances its pleasures, showing the miserable chances which 
ever hang round a sailor's existence. But it is a gift mercifully be- 
stowed upon all those who follow the seas, to forget anxiety and dan- 
ger the moment they are past, and feel themselves exempt for the 
future. 

The whole coast of Cochin-China is beautiful and grand. The 
shore is indented by frequent bays; and the mountains, which rise 
several thousand feet in height, are broken into innumerable valleys 
and ravines. Numerous small craft were seen plying up and down 
the coast, but none came to us. There is only wanting a history of 
daring deeds connected with this scenery to cast over it the interest 
and poetic charm which renders a sight of the Sierra Nevada and the 
blue hills of Granada so delightful. Its beauties are almost lost upon 
those who, like us, are ignorant of the prominent events in the his- 
tory of this distant realm, which may, perhaps, be sufficiently im- 
portant to make these shores classic ground. 

At sunset, on the thirteenth, Turon Point was in sight. Many 
fishing boats were seen under the high land. The breeze was very 
light, the S. W. monsoon having not yet fairly set in, and we did not 
gain the anchorage until next day. 

At noon we anchored in Turon bay. An irregular, mountainous 
country encloses an oval sheet of water, probably five miles by two, 
in which there is good anchorage, where vessels may lie entirely 



350 TURON BAY. 

land-locked. The green hills and mountains in the back ground, 
crowned with fleecy clouds, and a thread of white sand beach bound- 
ing the margin, with no habitation in sight, give a wild and pic- 
turesque character to the scenery. Close in shore was a dismantled 
junk, and a few canoes, with long outriggers, were skimming over 
the bay before a gentle breeze. A spy-glass discovered to us the 
signs of a village, a short distance from the mouth of a rivulet, which 
emptied into the bay. 

We had scarcely anchored before a canoe came alongside, but 
again departed without giving or receiving information, because the 
people on board only spoke Cochin-Chinese. About five o'clock in 
the evening we were visited by three canoes, larger and better look- 
ing than any we had yet seen. They were decorated with pennons, 
which marked them as the property of the state. The principal one 
carried the three visiting ofiicers in the bow, attended by a guard of 
eight soldiers, in long red jackets, with blue facings, bare legs, and 
black turbans, under glazed basket helmets. The officers w^ere im- 
mediately conducted to the cabin, where they seated themselves on 
chairs; but very soon slipped off* their shoes and drew their heels un- 
der, them, while their attendants squatted on the deck. The princi- 
pal man among them was remarkable for a very long, sparsely grow- 
ing beard, which he was at great pains to stroke, or draw through his 
fingers, to keep it properly disposed, whenever disturbed by the 
breeze. The three were dressed alike, in a blue silk frock, buttoned 
far over on the left breast with filigree buttons, silk pantaloons and 
black crape turbans, bare legs, and wooden-soled shoes. The cos- 
tumes of the attendants were of similar fashion, but of less costly 
materials, and they were barefoot. Each officer was accompanied by 
a sword-bearer, and each attendant carried two crimped silk reti- 
cules, in form of a shell, connected by a long cord, passing over the 
neck and shoulders. To the cord were attached a metallic tooth-pick 
and spoon for the ear. The reticules contained arecanut, tobacco, 
and cigars, which were constantly supplied to the great men. 

By means of a limited vocabulary, made by Mr. Roberts, in Janu- 
ary, 1833, when at Vunglam, in the province of Fuyen, we were ena- 
bled to make them comprehend the object of the ship's visit to Tu- 
ron. The scene of this interview was curious, both to behold and 
hear. The language of the Cochin-Chinese was uttered in a soft 
singing tone, varying like the recitative part of an Italian opera. 
Their manners were gentle, and at once placed them in our estima- 



VISIT THE SHORE. 351 

tion far above the Siamese. They chewed arecanut or smoked ci- 
gars, made of cut tobacco, rolled in dry corn husks, while they dis- 
coursed, very little to our edification. 

Mr. Roberts confided to them a letter, prepared in French and 
English, addressed to the Prime Minister at Hue, the capital, where, 
it was presumed, the French language was understood, from the num- 
ber of Frenchmen formerly employed in the government; as well as 
from the French missionaries residing in the country. This letter 
announced our arrival and the object of our visit, requesting that de- 
spatch might be used, on account of the unhealthy state of the vessel, 
as well as on account of Mr. Roberts' serious indisposition. The offi- 
cers received the communication, and we understood them that an 
answer might be expected in three days. 

While in the cabin, some of the inferior officers, supposing, as a 
matter of course, that we were here for the purposes of trade, mea- 
sured the tonnage of the ship. At the end of an hour, all took leave, 
by shaking hands, offering the palm upwards. 

Early the next morning, in spite of a slight shower, I accompanied 
Lieutenant Turner on shore. We entered a quiet stream about two 
hundred yards wide, and did not proceed up it a much greater dis- 
tance, before we were hailed from the shore, and gathered from the 
significant gestures of an individual whom we recognised as one of 
the party of the day before, that we must land. Several junks and 
small boats were secured to the shore by hawsers. The river runs 
through a level plain. At this point there were two or three sheds, 
beneath which as many boats were hauled up and under repair, but 
no one was as yet at work. Near one of these we landed, and were 
received by three or four persons, and among them the officer of yes- 
terday. While one hand was employed with a fan, held to shade his 
eyes from the rising sun, he pointed to the village with the other, at 
the same time pronouncing the word ** mandarin." We now com- 
prehended, we were to see the man of consequence, and after pass- 
ing the sheds, followed our conductor over a green meadow of little 
extent. Five minutes' walk brought us to the edge of the town. On 
our left was a fort, on our right a few huts, and in front of us what 
we presumed might be the town hall. The news of our arrival had 
gone abroad, and there was a considerable turn out of naked boys and 
girls who followed after us; and on our way, we saw some mothers 
who peeped forth from their huts, holding a "toddling wee thing" 
by the hand, while an infant was suspended on the back. They aban- 
doned their occupations, and gazed at us with no little wonder, while 



352 COOHIN-CHIKESE MANDARIN. 

our appearance, to the chiidren, seemed to be rather a source of alarm. 
A glance showed them to be, in our estimation, deficient in comeli- 
ness and cleanliness; nay, they were nasty, itchy looking people, lit- 
tle ones and all. 

A rude paling separated the town hall from the common road. It 
stood back about thirty yards, and consisted of an extensive roof of 
tiles, supported by a back and two lateral walls, the front being open 
to a sort of veranda, made by prolonging the roof and supporting the 
eaves on stout wooden posts. The floor was raised about three feet 
above the ground. Its area was about thirty by seventy feet. ,In the 
middle of the veranda stood a rough table of the height of the floor, 
and joined to it; and a chair and bamboo settle were placed on each 
side of it. Opposite to the table, the floor was covered by a rattan 
mat, six feet square, on which sat a la Turque, the Mandarin, who 
slipped ofl' his shoes and assumed the place, the moment he perceived 
our approach. A broad pavement led from the gateway to the table, 
so that we advanced directly in front of the officer, and, by his ges- 
ticulated invitation, seated ourselves in the chairs. 

The mandarin was a good-humored looking personage, with a fat 
flabby face, his cheeks hanging down like those of a well fed pig; his 
eyes were lack-lustre, and deeply sunk in their sockets, and when he 
laughed they almost disappeared. His short fat form was clothed 
in a blue silk frock, and white silk pantaloons, made very broad at 
the bottom, and his merry countenance was shaded by a full black 
crape turban. 

It was plainly to be seen that our visit was somewhat too early, for 
there was a considerable bustle among his half dozen attendants, who, 
on receiving some orders in very imperative tones, ran off in difteretit 
directions. Presently a half dozen soldiers in red jackets, dirty breech- 
es, bare legs, and glazed helmets, armed with spears, hurried in, one, 
after the other, and were marshalled into file. In the course of a very 
few minutes, the number increased to forty men, of whom eighteen were 
armed with spears, twelve feet long, fourteen with French muskets, 
and the rest with long two-handed sw^ords. The last had each a rat- 
tan fixed on the scabbard of their swords, and each wore a large patch 
of green cloth on the breast. The sleeves of the soldiers' jackets, 
from the elbow to the hand, were either white, blue, or green, which 
probably distinguished the companies to which they belonged. At 
last they were disposed in double files, the spearmen in the rear, from 
the gate to the veranda, on each side of tlie pavement. 

The soldier who arrived last, received a reprimand, and laid down 



MARKET WOMEN. 353 

on the pavement, upon his face, but the old mandarin vociferated, 
and he hastened to the rear of one of the files, and assumed the same 
position. One of the swordsmen then struck him, with the end of 
his rattan, at least two dozen blows over the back^ but his clothes 
were so loose that the infliction was at little cost of pain. After the 
chastisement, he assumed his place in the ranks. There was evi- 
dently a strong desire on the part of the mandarin, that his guard 
should appear to advantage, and that he himself should be looked on 
bj us, as the man of authority. 

Tea was immediately placed upon the table, in coarse China pots, 
with cups of delft ware, spoons of the same material, and common 
brown sugar in a saucer. 

Being destitute of an interpreter, we were obliged to communi- 
cate our wants, by drawing a bullock, a fowl, an egg, &c., which were 
comprehended, and assented to by the old mandarin, who, nodding 
and laughing, with his mouth full of arecanut, which he took from 
a blue silk reticule beside him, gave the necessary orders. While we 
were carrying on this negotiation, some of the boat's crew had wan- 
dered towards the fort, but were immediately brought back. 

In a few minutes a number of women gathered in front of the gate, 
With baskets of fruit, eggs, fish, dried and fresh, hens, ducks, &c., which 
they offered at exorbitant prices: we went among them and found 
they were generally willing to accept one-half, and frequently one- 
fourth of their original demands. We had only Spanish dollars, but we 
soon got them changed in Cochin-Chinese cash, a brittle coin of tu- 
tenague, the size of a cent, with a square hole in the centre, by which 
ey were strung on rattans, two or three feet in length. This mo- 
y, worth about a dollar a thousand, was not counted, but measured 
bj the eye, and so much of a string offered as the price of the article 
bargained for. Among other venders, were restaurans amhulans, 
with fish, broiled on wooden skewers, and jars of fish pickle which 
were strongly urged upon our attention. There was a good deal of 
talking and excitement among the people while our trafiicking con- 
tinued, which, at the end of an hour, was cut short by the mandarin 
driving off all the hawksters, and signifying to us, that for this time 
we had purchased enough. We accordingly took leave with what 
we had, and returned on board. 

Among these people diseases of the skin are very common; we 

scarcely met an individual who was not affected by some disorder of 

the kind. It is probably owing to their filthy habits, both in diet and 

dress. They wear silk next to their skins, which is seldom changed 

45 



354 COCHIN-CHINESE MANDARINS. 

until it be worn out; and they prefer stale, or partially incubated eggs 
to fresh ones. 

The faces of the Cochin-Chinese are flat, and their complexion 
much lighter than that of the Siamese. The back part of the head 
is more developed, and in accordance with this configuration, we 
find them much more active. Their average stature is probably less, 
and does not exceed five feet two inches. 

On the seventeenth, the Cochin-Chinese ofiicers, who visited us on 
the day of our arrival, came on board in a long canoe, pulling forty 
oars. They were seated in the bows, the place of honor with these 
people, under the shade of an umbrella, and on this occasion were 
accompanied by an individual, who, besides Cochin-Chinese, spoke 
Malay. We had on board a Dutch passenger from Batavia, who spoke 
French and Malay, and thus armed, we held a much more satisfac- 
tory intercourse than we had done hitherto. 

They were received in the cabin, where they disposed of themselves 
as they did on their first visit. They inquired the respective rank of 
the ofiicers present, but were unwilling to believe that Mr. Roberts 
was the envoy, because he did not, like the commodore and captain, 
wear epaulettes. To this subject they frequently recurred, and did 
not appear to be satisfied in the end. This should be a hint to fu- 
ture diplomats to Cochin-China, to adorn themselves with some glit- 
tering badge of distinction. They stated, that the emperor was not 
at the capital, and we should be obliged to wait, still five days, be- 
fore an answer could be returned to Mr. Roberts' communication. 
They voluntarily offered permission to the officers to amuse them- 
selves on shore, provided they would not go in parties exceeding ten 
in number; but under the pretext that the emperor might be displeased, 
they afterwards revoked it. 

Mr. Roberts mentioned his visit to Vunglam, in 1833, remarking, 
he had been informed that the emperor had bastinadoed several of 
the high mandarins there, in consequence of the vexatious delays they 
had caused him at that time, by not immediately forwarding his de- 
spatches. To this they very coolly replied, they had forwarded Mr. 
Roberts' letter the evening it was received, and now had nothing 
more to do in the matter. 

At the moment the presents for the emperor were mentioned, 
some samples of sugar and rice were accidentally laid on the table; 
and, supposing that the presents consisted of those articles, they ex- 
claimed that the emperor had enough of these; and it was some time 
before they were made to comprehend differently. 



COCHIN-OHINESE ETIQUETTE. 355 

Thej inquired how long we had been coming from the United 
States, at what places we had touched, &c. They stated, that no 
one would be allowed to furnish us with beef, &c., before an answer 
should be received from Hue. 

The chief mandarin, as he sat upon his chair with his bare feet 
drawn up under him, occasionally held his fan between his toes, 
while his hands were employed, either in stroking his beard, or wiping 
his face with a red rag instead of a pocket handkerchief. Every sub- 
ject named, was recurred to again and again under different forms, 
as if they were determined to sift the matter to the bottom. During 
the interview, they drank wine, chewed arecanut and smoked cigars; 
but preferred their own to some Havanas which they accepted and 
afterwards distributed among their boat's crew. Some Chinese 
tracts were given them, which they appeared to read with interest, 
after the manner of players in an opera, but did not take them away. 
They were quite content, and we were heartily glad, when, after an 
interview of three hours, they took leave. 

The Cochin-Chinese are a polite people, and punctilious observers 
of etiquette. At Vunglam, the chief mandarin questioned the pro- 
priety of one of his rank and numerous titles, holding intercourse 
with Mr. Roberts, who came from a country where he understood 
there were no titles and all men were equal. Mr. Roberts, per- 
ceiving that unless this objection were removed, all negotiation would 
be at an end, replied that the mandarin had been in some measure 
misinformed. He told him, if his Chinese secretary would take a 
piece of paper, he would enumerate his own titles and convince him 
of his error. The secretary selected a half sheet of paper, but Mr. 
Roberts requested him to take a whole one, as that even would be 
scarcely large enough. The American officers present were of course 
at a loss to imagine how Mr. R. would extricate himself from this seem- 
ing difficulty. But not so Mr. Roberts. He dictated as follows: 
Edmund Roberts, Esquire, Special Envoy from the President of the 
United States to the Emperor of Cochin-China, Citizen of the United 
States, Citizen of Maine, Citizen of New Hampshire, and con- 
tinued enumerating himself citizen of each of the twenty-four states; 
for being citzen of all, he was so of them severally. Before the sheet 
was half full, the mandarin exclaimed, it was unnecessary to go farther, 
as his titles already exceeded his own. Had he not been satisfied, 
Mr. Roberts intended to enumerate as many of the cities, towns and 
villages as he could remember, not doubting the success of this riise 
diplomatique. 



356 SHIP VISITED BY MANDARINS. 

On the 20th we had another visit from the mandarins, and a pre- 
sent of fruit. Thej now told us that eleven clays more must elapse, 
before an answer to our letter could be received. 

On the 21st, the Enterprise arrived in a very sickly condition, 
which made it more necessary to seek some port where refreshments 
could be obtained. She had pursued the off-shore passage and had 
encountered very light winds and calms, which delayed her ar- 
rival. 

In the evening we had another visit, to inform us that there was 
no one at the capital to read the letter sent by Mr. Roberts, (which 
we were inclined to doubt,) and the emperor had sent a high officer 
to Turon to ascertain the object of our visit. This officer had al- 
ready arrived, and would be very glad to receive Mr. Roberts on 
shore, which invitation was positively declined on his part, because 
etiquette required that the emperor's officer should first wait upon 
him. 

The next morning at eight o'clock, the mandarins again came on 
boards but Mr. Roberts was so much indisposed that he would not 
receive them, and they went away, evidently much displeased, not 
being permitted even to go below the deck, to gratify their curiosity. 



CHAPTER XXXIV„ 

SKETCHES IN COCHIN-CHINA. 

May, 1836. 

The general sickness of the crews of both vessels, as well as the 
dangerous state of Mr. Robert's health, made it imperative to seek 
some place promising more speedy relief than was likely to be found 
among the Cochin-Chinese. But, before sailing, it was desirable to 
ascertain, if possible, what might be the disposition of the govern- 
ment in respect to negotiating a treaty of friendship and commerce; 
so that, in case it were favorable, we might return properly condi- 
tioned and provided with interpreters, and, if not, save the time 



PROSPECTS OF A TREATY WITH COCHIN-CHINA. 357 

which it might require to return. It will be seen in the sequel that 
very little hope could be reasonably entertained of negotiating with 
a people who manifested distrust and suspicion on the most trifling 
points of intercourse; who, however ready they be to take unfair ad- 
vantage, they seem unwilling to reciprocate any thing to secure their 
own interest. Whether a treaty between the United States and 
Cochin-China, at this time, is particularly desirable, I have heard 
questioned by several intelligent and experienced merchants, who 
urged that the Cochin-Chinese are treacherous, and never would ob- 
serve the provisions of any treaty; that they are too distant to enable 
us to bring their manufactures or produce into our markets with 
profit; that the existence of a treaty would not place it more in our 
power to obtain redress from them, for any improper treatment of our 
citizens, than at present; that the commercial experiments already 
made have proved their trade to be scarcely worth seeking; and that 
the only advantage of a treaty, and that, at best, problematical, 
would be in considering it a step towards China itself; but I leave 
the discussion of the subject to diplomatists, politicians, and place- 
men, who may discover here a means of at once advancing their own 
interests and their country's glory. 

The English have made several unsuccessful attempts to effect a 
treaty with Cochin-China, and attribute their failure to the misrepre- 
sentations of the French and Portuguese, in regard to the British 
character. But there are other obstacles found in the low estimation 
at which merchants are held by the Cochin-Chinese, and the fre- 
quent civil and foreign wars by which the government has been dis- 
tracted for ages. At present they are contending with the Siamese 
for the territory of Cambodia, which, it seems, they have long been 
desirous of annexing to their own. 

On the twenty-second, having received instructions from Mr. Ro- 
berts, I went on shore, accompanied by Messrs. William R. Taylor 
and Jacobs, the Dutch passenger before mentioned, to communicate 
with the messenger from Hue, sent by the Emperor of Cochin-China^ 
or, as they delight to style it, Anam. 

We landed at half past one o'clock, P. M., and, following a tor- 
tuous path among wretched huts, tenanted by women and children 
with dirty clothes and itchy skins, halted at the town hall before de- 
scribed. At one end of the hall were several clerks writing, without 
other desk than the floor itself, and a half dozen individuals were 
lounging under the veranda with two of the officers who had visited 
the ship. 



358 DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE, 

We had scarcelj taken our seats at the table before one of the two 
oflicers demanded to know the cause of the treatment they had re- 
ceived when on board in the morning. I replied, that when the em- 
peror's messenger, styled the Lakak, should arrive and ask the ques- 
tion, it would be answered. 

In a few minutes, an individual, as well dressed as any of those 
we had seen, arrived, under a large sunshade of Chinese fashion, 
with numerous tassels depending from the inside, which was borne 
by an attendant. He at once proposed to accompany us on board, 
to seek an interview with Mr. Roberts; but, feeling assured that our 
object would not be advanced by acceding to this proposal, I stated, 
it would be useless for him to take so much trouble, because I could 
inform the Lakak of all he might desire to know; nevertheless, I 
should be very happy to escort the Lakak, himself, on board, where 
Mr. Roberts would be very glad to receive him. He replied: " This 
morning Mr. Roberts was sick, and refused to see those who went 
on board, and perhaps the same might occur again?" To this I re- 
joined, "If the Emperor's messenger will go on board, Mr. Roberts 
will certainly see him." 

Tea was now served in the same rude style as on the occasion of 
our first visit. 

The officer who last arrived inquired who of us three was highest 
in rank, and was told that I was. He then asked why Mr. Roberts 
did not receive him in the morning when on board, and was replied 
to, that Mr. Roberts was very unwell, and though he would be 
pleased to see the Lakak himself, he could not be troubled, at this 
time, by any one of inferior rank. This officer now remarked that 
the Lakak would come, in a few minutes, to speak with me himself, 
and again asked what was my rank. Owing to the inefficiency of 
the interpreters, he was given to understand that it was next to that 
of captain, and Mr. Jacobs gratuitously added, that, in the absence 
of Mr. Roberts, it was my duty to transact business for him. He 
again recurred to the subject of his reception on board, and was again 
told that, whenever the Lakak should ask it, the matter would be 
explained. 

After a short conversation among themselves, it was again pro- 
posed that the officer should accompany us on board, and he was in- 
formed this had already been refused; and farther, if the Lakak would 
not see us, it was useless to remain longer; remarking, at the same 
time, the vessels would sail in the evening, but Mr. Roberts would 
regret not seeing, or hearing directly from the Lakak, before his de- 



DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE, 359 

parture. We were a second time assured that the Lakak would 
meet us in a few minutes. 

At this time a messenger was despatched, probably to inform the 
emperor's envoy of all that had transpired. During the pause thereby 
occasioned, we had leisure to observe that most of the persons present, 
of any distinction, wore over white silk under vestments, a frock or 
shirt of thin black crape, like that called Italian. Their turbans 
were of black Canton crape, the folds of which all crossed one above 
the other, about the centre of the forehead. 

We were now asked, why one of the companions of the Lakak, who 
was on board in the morning, had been prevented from going below, 
which question I declined answering for the present. They then put 
several questions relative to our respective names and rank, which we 
wrote down for them. 

At the expiration of about twenty minutes after the departure of 
the messenger, a palanquin, consisting of a net hammock, lined with 
rugs, slung to a single pole and shaded by an oval roof, arrived bear- 
ing a personage of perhaps forty years of age. The palanquin was 
preceded by a single banner, and followed by fifty men, one half of 
them armed with long spears, and the rest with muskets. Their uni- 
forms were of scarlet cloth, faced with yellow and blue. The fashion 
of their jackets was long waisted; the nether garment was a nonde- 
script sort of swaddling cloth or breeches, reaching to the knee. 
The muskets were French, and some of their locks were bandaged 
with blue cloth, to shield them from damp, and many were without 
flints. When they had reached the front of the house, within the 
enclosure, they divided into double files on each side of the walk, 
leading from the gate, and confronted each other, the spearmen in 
the rear. While this evolution was performing, the palanquin halted 
and an attendant placed a pair of ornamented slippers, with wooden 
soles, on the feet of the passenger. He at once alighted, and, grace- 
fully saluting us with a nod and wave of the hand, immediately 
seated himself cross-legged upon the margin of the floor, next to the 
table. The fashion of his costume was like that of his countrymen^ 
but of a much more costly material. It consisted of a white silk 
jacket buttoned to the throat, and fitting the arms and person tightly, 
and loose pantaloons, also of white silk, reaching halfway down the 
calf. Over these was worn the robe or shirt of sky blue silk lace, 
with a vine pattern woven in it, so neatly that it might be mistaken at 
a short distance, for embroidery. His turban, of very fine black 
crape, was accurately folded 5 his face and head were small, and his 



360 DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE. 

complexion light yellow; his beard and mustache, if a few long, 
sparsely growing hairs merit the name, were gray, and his finger nails 
were remarkable for length, and being clean. In short, the air and 
dress of this individual proclaimed him to be a Cochin-Chinese gen- 
tleman oiliaut ton, and of acknowledged rank. 

All were silent for a few moments, when I inquired whether he 
were the Lakak. He answered that he was not, but was equally em- 
powered to hear any communication I might have to make; adding, 
that the Lakak himself would arrive in a few minutes. He stated, 
that not being able to understand, or get interpreted the letter, which 
Mr. Roberts had forwarded to Hue, they had been despatched from 
the court to ascertain its import, as well as the object of our visit, 
and concluded by asking if I were empowered to represent Mr. 
Roberts on this occasion. I replied in the affirmative, at the same 
time remarking, we were under the impression, that there were per- 
sons in the capital who understood the French language, and for that 
reason a translation accompanied the original letter. He declared 
there was no one who spoke or read that language in the country; 
and demanded for what purpose I was making lead pencil notes, 
whether I intended to leave them behind or take them with me. I 
answered, they were designed for Mr. Roberts, that he might be 
correctly informed of all that transpired on this occasion. 

At this moment the palanquin of the Lakak was seen approaching, 
at a short trot rather than march, which would have better comported 
with his dignity. Two yellow banners, suspended from cross pieces 
at the end of long staves, down which they hung, first appeared, 
followed by fifty soldiers in advance of the palanquin, which was like 
that above described, except that it was more gaudy. It was followed 
by an attendant, bearing a chunam box of Japanese laquered ware, 
another with the wooden soled slippers of the Lakak, and fifty sol- 
diers. In their arms and appointments, these troops were in all re- 
spects like those who were already before us. The want of music 
detracted very much from the military effect which they were cal- 
culated to produce. They formed continuous files, beyond the fence 
of the enclosure, with those within it, and extended almost to the 
river upon which the hall fronts, distant between two and three hun- 
dred yards. 

The Lakak, observing the same ceremony as his companion, 
alighted and assumed a seat on the left, and in front of me. He was 
not more than thirty years of age, his beard was black, and his coun- 
tenance was much more intelligent than that of his companion. The 



DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE. S6l 

stature of neither of them exceeded five feet. His costume was only 
different from that of the other, in being secured by cornelian but- 
tons. , So soon as he was seated, he filled his mouth with arecanut, 
taken from a blue silk reticule embroidered with silver, which was 
presented by an attendant. 

Several individuals, who might be of the rank of sergeant or cor- 
poral, gathered under the veranda, bearing long two-handed swords 
in wooden scabbards, the hilts of which they held uppermost. When 
any one crossed the open alley between the confronting files of 
troops, he half inclined his body, very much after the servile man- 
ner of the Siamese. 

The Lakak remained some minutes silent^ and, thinking he might 
be waiting for me to begin, I expressed a hope that he had experienced 
no inconvenience from his rapid journey from the capital. He 
made no reply, but immediately asked why Mr. Roberts would not 
see those who had been on board in the morning, and the same ex- 
planation was offered as before. I stated, that I was deputed to 
communicate with him, and inform him that Mr. Roberts was charged 
by the President of the United States, with a letter and presents for 
the emperor, and invested with full powers to negotiate a commer- 
cial treaty, or to ascertain upon what footing American vessels would be 
admitted to trade in the ports of Anam or Cochin-Chinai Mr. Roberts 
sincerely regretted that his own health, as well as that of the crews 
of the vessels, required his speedy departure; and he particularly 
regretted it, because, three years before he was at Vunglara, for the 
same purpose, and, after being delayed there a month, was under the 
necessity of returning to the United States without receiving a satis- 
factory answer.* But he hoped to return at some future time pro- 
vided with interpreters. 

The Lakak inquired whether I had the letter for the emperor, and 
was told that the letter could only be delivered by Mr. Roberts in 
person. He then asked, to whom Mr. Roberts had given his letter 
when atVunglam. I replied, the letter was written in Chinese, and 
had been delivered to a mandarin, who refused to forward it without 
giving it, in translation, an import different from that which it was 
intended to convey; but we had since learned, the emperor had 
punished the mandarin for his conduct. He now inquired who 

* For a detailed account of the visit to Vunglam, the reader is referred to a 
posthumous work, recently published, entitled, " An Embassy to the Eastern 
Courts of Cochin-China, Siam and Muscat," in the years 1832-3-4, by Edmunb 
Roberts. 

46 



362 DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE- 

translated the letter into Chinese, and whether the individual was not 
on board. Being told that he was not, he exclaimed, " How is it 
possible to negotiate without interpreters?" I urged that we had 
anticipated assistance from the French, whom we understood resided 
at Hue; but being, as it seemed, misinformed on this head, we should 
be obliged to depart a second time, which Mr. Roberts sincerely re- 
gretted. 

I asked whether they were disposed to enter into a commercial 
treaty with us, remarking that American vessels did not visit Anam 
for the purpose of trade, because they did not know how they might 
be received, nor what the charges and duties might be upon their 
cargoes; but, it was expected, if a treaty were made, a commerce 
which must be advantageous to both countries, would soon follow, as 
they would bring various kinds of merchandise and dollars to offer 
in exchange for the products of Cochin-China. He stated, in answer, 
that both the French and Dutch had been here, about the same sea- 
son the year before, and had made a similar proposition; but he was 
ignorant what answer had been given them by the emperor, adding, 
that he was not authorized to say whether the emperor was dis- 
posed to negotiate or not; nor was he able to say whether American 
vessels would be admitted to trade: but if they should be, all kinds 
of merchandise might be bought. 

I stated, that a ship-of-war would visit them at some future period. 
Again the letter addressed to the emperor was demanded, and being 
refused, the Lakak said, if we had nothing farther to say, he would 
ask leave to retire. 

I repeated our regret that the sickness on board of the vessels and 
want of interpreters required our departure; and was about to take 
leave, when the Lakak said, we might settle the matter at once. I told 
him this was out of the question, because the interpreters, who were 
our medium of communication, did not understand the language suf- 
ficiently well to treat on a subject of so much moment. He never- 
theless repeated, we two might settle the matter now. I then in- 
quired whether the Lakak were vested with powers to negotiate a 
treaty; and what was his rank. I was informed in reply, that he was 
the Lakak; resided in the palace with the emperor, and was superior 
in rank to all those persons whom Mr. Roberts had seen at Vunglam. 

He again repeated, we might settle it well enough, at least ver- 
bally, and requested that the letter for the emperor might be con- 
fided to him. I replied, 1 would communicate his request to Mr. 
Roberts. 



DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE. 363 

" Cannot Mr, Roberts come here?" 

" It is irrvpossible; etiquette requires tiiat tlie Lakak should make 
the first visit to Mr. Roberts." He urged, if Mr. Roberts would 
come on shore they miglit talk the matter over. I answered, that I 
would report what he had said, and requested to take leaver for I 
felt convinced, we were spending time to little purpose. 

I was fatigued by the slow pace of our intercourse, being obliged 
first to make my communications to Mr. Jacobs, in French, who 
translated them into Malay; but, as the Cochin-Chinese interpreter 
spoke a different dialect from himself, and mingled with his Malay 
many Cochin-Chinese words, there was great difficulty in possessing 
him of my precise meaning. When he came to translate the obser- 
vations of the Lakak to Mr. Jacobs, a similar difficulty occurred, so 
that much time was lost through the ineraciency of tlie interpreters. 
Besides, both, in their zeal to be serviceable, were often found an- 
swering questions from their own knowledge, without considering 
the propriety or expediency of such conduct. 

Although those under the veranda appeared to be much interested 
in the interviev/, the soldiers outside seemed to be as weary as my- 
self. They had all gradually squatted down, and were looking hea- 
venwards, grasping their muskets and spears, above their heads, for 
support. 

The Lakak asked whether I would not return again the next day 
to talk the matter over again | I replied, I would communicate what 
he said to Mr, Roberts, but thought it probable we should sail in the 
evening. He then remarked, that in from three to five days, an an- 
swer might be received from the emperor himself, and offered to pro- 
cure medicines for the sick, if we required them, for which I ex- 
pressed our thanks. He said the officers would be permitted in fu- 
ture to roam where they pleased, for the purpose of recreation^ but 
requested, they would not shoot animals, as difficulties might arise 
therefrom. As a farther inducement for the ship to remain, and which 
was evidently an object with him, he stated that the water we had 
on board was poisonous, or very bad from running over the roots of 
certain plants, and recommended that of the river as excellent. This 
was a barefaced falsehood, for the Cochin-Chinese themselves used 
the same water, and carried it on board of their vessels. Pointing 
towards the mountain, he exclaimed, with considerable animation, 
" pas bon," and then to the river, " bon," I immediately asked in 
French whether he spoke the language. He shook his head, blushed 
to the eyes, and said, "non, non," in a bad accent, but still suffi- 



364 WEATHER AT TURON — POULTRY. 

cientlj French to convince me, that, though he might not be able to 
speak the language fluently, he was quite able to read it. 

During the interview, the mandarin who came under the sunshade, 
often had a word to interpose, but all the others, except the compa- 
nion of the Lakak, were silent. They beguiled the time as they lis- 
tened, by rolling up cigars in paper or corn husk after the manner of 
the Peruvian Spaniards, but they sadly lacked the grace which is pe- 
culiar only to fingers nourished by the rich blood of Spain and her 
colonies. The Lakak himself indulged in a pipe, made of speckled 
bamboo, the bowl of which would hold a pint, and was connected to 
a long slender stem. All the while he smoked, which he only did 
for a few rapid whiffs at a time, an attendant held a taper of oiled 
paper at the extremity of the stem within the bowl. 

We shook hands, and I took leave impressed with the belief, that 
though a treaty might be effected, it would be at the expense of much 
time and patience, to overcome their vacillating and suspicious con- 
duct. The desire to delay the ship probably had its origin in the 
expected profits arising from the sale of stock, &c. to us, for when 
we issued forth from the enclosure, we were met by a crowd of mar- 
ket women, soliciting us to purchase their truck and poultry. 

We reached the ship near six o'clock, P. M., and preparations 
were made to get at once under way. 

While we were at Turon, the weather was cool, and to us, so re- 
cently from the sultry gulf of Siam, often chilly, though the thermo- 
meter ranged from 80° to 83° F. The average height of the barome- 
ter was 29.80 inches. The clouds generally floated low, and we had 
one or two showers, accompanied by thunder and lightning almost 
every day. The close jungle and trees of the hills give shelter to a 
variety of monkeys, some of them of singular appearance, as well 
as many birds and reptiles. Fine fish were daily brought alongside, 
and sold to us at moderate prices. 

Our movements were always closely watched, and when any hunt- 
ing party strayed far from the shore, they were met by soldiers, who 
intimated that they were going beyond the prescribed limits. 

The poultry was of very excellent quality, and after the first day 
procurable in almost any quantity. 

*' The whole of the Cochin-Chinese dominions, since Tun-quin has 
yielded to the arms of the late usurper, fills the space between the 
12th degree of north latitude and the tropic of Cancerj but their 
breadth do not amount to two degrees of longitude. They are bound- 
.ed to the westward "by a long chain of mountains, whicli border on 



COCHIN-CHINESE TERRITORY. 365 

the other side, on the kingdoms of Laos, Siam, and Cambodia. The 
sea washes Cochin-China, and Tun-quin to the eastj the former has 
Tsiompa to the southward, and the latter the Cochin-Chinese pro- 
vince of Yunnan to the northward of it. The whole comprehends 
about 95,000 square miles.* 

* Staunton's China. 



SKETCHES IN CHINA. 



VOYAGE TO MACAO. 369 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

SKETCHES IN CHINA. 

June, 1836. 

On the evening of the twenty-second of May, both vessels put to 
sea, every one on board elated with hopej the numerous sick, of reach- 
ing a place where they might recover, and all of finding letters from 
home at Macao. The monsoon blew pleasantly and the sea was tran- 
quil. On the twenty-fourth we were passing Hainan, which has been 
long in the possession of the Chinese. Numerous fishing craft were 
seen in every direction, giving a sure indication of an extensive po- 
pulation on the land. In many places, the fishing grounds were 
marked by stout stakes driven into the bottom, leaving one end above 
the surface of the sea. 

At sunset we had a last view of Hainan, which is very high. Heavy 
dark clouds were gathered over it, forming an immense vault, into 
which rose numerous mountain peaks, and a fleecy scud floated like 
a drawn curtain along the top of the arch. The rays of the setting 
sun illuminated the whole scene, tinting the clouds with a thousand 
colors, all as bright as our hopes. The Enterprise followed close un- 
der our stern, every sail swelling with the soft breeze of evening, and 
"Home, sweet home!" rose from our band on deck, as both vessels 
glided over the smooth, undulating sea, with a fair wind, at the rate 
of six miles an hour. 

The twenty -fifth was a delightful day, yet our sick were augmented 
in number, and the cases wore an unpromising aspect. The twenty- 
sixth was cool, rainy and unpleasant. About midday, in the midst 
of a heavy shower, we received on board a Chinese pilot, an active 
47 



370 CHINESE PILOT THE SICK MOVED ON SHORE. 

man, with a keen eye to profit. He was sheltered from the storm 
bj a broad hat, and a cape of palm leaves, like a roof of thatch, 
which gave him, as well as his companions, who were protected after 
the same fashion, a very novel appearance. Their little cock of a boat 
had just left a pilot on board of an American ship a-head of us, bound 
to Macao from Batavia. The boat was brought skilfully alongside, 
and held on till sure of employment, when she was cast oiF; and drop- 
ping astern, quickly set sail by the wind, and stood away for the En- 
terprise. 

So soon as he was on deck, the pilot produced, from a fold of his 
blue Nankin shirt, several certificates of capability, and honesty, and 
then demanded forty dollars to guide the ship to the anchorage, but 
consented to receive thirty, though, as we afterwards learned, his 
customary fee was only ten; thus adding another example to the 
many, that the character a man bears in his pocket is not always a 
guarantee of his integrity. On concluding the bargain, he insisted 
on shaking hands with the captain, to ratify its conditions, or, as he 
expressed it, "so can secure." The next moment he assumed the 
direction, and, in barbarous English, aided by gesture, began to issue 
his orders. At half past three o'clock, P. M., we anchored, about 
two miles from the town of Macao. 

Green islands, rising high out of the sea, were seen in every di- 
rection. To the left, between two islands, was a harbor, called the 
Typa, full of vessels, both of European and Chinese construction, 
and around were many ships riding at anchor. The town of Ma- 
cao was stretched along the shore of a deep cove, sheltered by 
high land in the rear. A church, dedicated to our Lady, much time- 
worn, stands on a high rock, to the left, like a small garrison in an 
enemy's country; and on another eminence, or rather headland, are 
seen a fortress and w^all, marking the limits of the Portuguese pos- 
sessions. 

The day after our arrival, through the kind assistance of Mr. Wil- 
liam S. Wetmore, we obtained a large house, in an airy situation, 
which was quickly converted into an hospital for the accommodation 
of the sick of both vessels. The 28th of May proved to be clear, and 
all of those officers and men whose situation was considered danger- 
ous were moved on shore, and made as comfortable as kind attention 
and ample means would permit. 

In the memory of the toils and anxieties necessarily attending on 
the circumstances in which we were placed at that time, is mingled 



KINDNESS OF THE ENGLISH — DEATH OF LIEUT. CAMPBELL. 371 

a grateful recollection of the active sympathies of the British resi- 
dents, who were ever ready to assist us, and whose untiring hospi- 
tality leaves us a debt which we never can, but shall always wish to 
pay. To Sir George Best Robinson, Bart, H. B. M. Chief Superin- 
tendent of British trade in China, to T. R. CoUedge, Esq., Surgeon, 
the Rev. G. H. Vachell, Chaplain of the establishment, we are par- 
ticularly obliged.* 

On the Sundays, while we remained, divine service was performed 
at the hospital, by the Rev. Peter Parker, M. D., American mission- 
ary, and the Rev. Charles Gutzlaff, lately a missionary, but, at pre- 
sent, second interpreter to the British commercial establishment — 
(with a pretty salary of ,£800 a year.) 

But human effort is not equal to contend against the immutable 
laws which govern our organization, nor to restore it in every in- 
stance from a deranged to a normal condition. It has been decreed, 
from the beginning, that man must die, and, at the same time, that 
he shall seek to avoid Death, yet, double as we may, he hunts us 
down at last. We may give a tear to a departed friend, but let us 
not murmur against the Divine hand which gathers him from us to a 
brighter world. Our sympathies are more required by the living, who 
mourn the loss of son, husband, father, or brother. 

On the 3d of June, Lieutenant Archibald S. Campbell, command- 
ing the U. S. schooner Enterprise, fell a victim to disease, contracted 
at Bankok, which he bore with a fortitude becoming an officer. He 
was an amiable and worthy gentleman, and, as such, lamented by us 
all. 

In token of respect, a monument was erected over his remains, 
which were deposited in the British burial ground, with the sacred 
and military honors befitting the rank of the deceased. The stone 
bears, on opposite sides, the following inscriptions:— 

"THE REMAINS 

OP 

ARCHIBALD S. CAMPBELL, Esq., 

WHO DIED AT MACAO, IN COMMAND OF THE U. S. SCHOONER 
ENTERPRISE, JUNE 3, 1836." 

* This very expensive establishment, for the superintendence of British trade 
in China, has been abolished since we left Macao. 



372 DEATH OF MR. ROBERTS. 

"ERECTED TO THE MEMORY 

OF 

LIEUTENANT- COMMANDANT ARCHIBALD S. CAMPBELL, 

BY THE OFFICERS 

OF THE 

U. S. SHIP PEACOCK AND U. S. SCHOONER ENTERPRISE, 

1836." 

A few days more, and another fellow voyager was gathered to his 
fathers. Edmund Roberts, Esq., Special Agent of the United States, 
died at the residence of Mr. William S. Wetmore, at Macao, on the 
12th day of June. 

A long exposure in the climates of the East, actively engaged in 
the service of his country, proved too much for his age and constitu- 
tion. He had been long out of health, and, at Bankok, was attacked 
with the prevailing disease, which he at first neglected, through his 
desire to lose no time in discharging the duties which had brought 
him to Siam. 

Mr. Roberts had the honor of negotiating and concluding the trea- 
ties which have been given in a former part of this volume; and in 
this, proved himself useful to his country, without reaping a full 
reward. 

Making a good commercial treaty, is not among the least difficult 
negotiations in diplomatic transactions, and few men combine all 
the qualifications for such a task. " Besides a general knowledge of 
the trade and reciprocal interests of the contracting parties, he 
ought to be acquainted with their several kinds of industry and skillf 
to discover their wants, to calculate their resources, and to weigh 
with nicety the state of their finances, and the proportionate interest 
of their money: nay, farther, he should be able to ascertain the com- 
parative population and strength of each country, together with the 
price and quality both of first materials, and also of the labor be- 
stowed upon them: for this purpose he should inquire into the ope- 
rations of every class of merchants and manufacturers concerned in 
the trade; should consult their expectations on each of its several 
branches; and collect their hopes and fears on the effect of each 



MONUMENT ERECTED TO MR. ROBERTS. 373 

commercial revolution, on the competition of rival nations. A good 
treaty of commerce, independent of the art of negotiation, is pro- 
nounced by one who well knew the extent and difficulty of the sub- 
ject, to be a " master piece of skill. ''^^ 

In honor of his memory a stone was placed over his remains, 
bearing on the opposite faces, the following inscriptions. 

"THE REMAINS 

OF 

EDMUND ROBERTS, ESQ., 

SPECIAL DIPLOMATIC AGENT TO SEVERAL ASIATIC COURTS, 
WHO DIED AT MACAO, JUNE, 12tH, 1836. 

He devised and executed, to their end, under Instructions from his 

Government, Treaties of Amity and Commerce, between 

the United States and the Courts of 

Muscat and SiamP 

"ERECTED 
TO THE MEMORY 

OP 

OF 

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE, BY THE AMERICAN 
MERCHANTS, RESIDENT IN CHINA." 

The simple inscriptions of these monuments, tell us, that both 
gentlemen died, far from their families and homes, but not un- 
mourned, nor without the sympathies and respect of those around 
them. 

Their loss cast a shade of melancholy over us all, and produced 
several changes in the squadron. But owing to a happy circum- 
stance in the constitution of the human mind, of speedily becoming 

* Historical and Political Remarks on the Tariff of the French Treaty, by Mr<r 
Eden, afterwards Lord Auckland, quoted in M*Culloch's "Commercial Dic- 
tionary." London, 1835. 



374 CHINESE EDICT IN RELATION 

reconciled to whatever is inevitable, the depression had worn away 
when the vessels again put to sea, with the sick reduced in number, 
and those who were not yet well, very much benefited by the short 
stay at Macao. We had been subject, too long, to the influence of 
the tropics in the narrow confines of a ship, and had suffered too 
severely from a succession of epidemics, to recover entirely in the 
short period of three weeks. 

During our sojourn in China, we were constantly under the care- 
ful surveillance of the Chinese. Whenever a boat landed from the 
ship, a petty mandarin was at hand to take note of all who came or 
went. And the hospital was carefully watched, and we were often 
asked when we were to depart. The lively interest excited among 
the Chinese by our presence, attributable rather to their suspicious 
fears than benevolent sympathies, may be gathered fro'm the follow- 
ing document, addressed to the American Consul. 

" To Mr. Snow: 

" We beg to inform you we have received a communication from the 
Hoppo, with orders to make known to you its contents, which are 
that the cruisers, Sze-kin-lun and Kum-mar be ordered to depart 
from their anchorage and return to their own country, the moment 
their sick sailors have recovered their health, as they will not be per- 
mitted to loiter where they are, which might give rise to business. 

" For these reasons we make this known; and with compliments 
remain, — 

• HoWqUA, SUNSHING, 

MowquA, MiNGqUA, 

PwANKEqUA, FoOTAI, 

GowquA, AssowquA, 

KiNGqUA, 

Taou-Kwang, 16th year, 4th Moon, and 20th day, (June 3d, 1836.) 

" Wan Hoppo, &c., &c., to the Hong merchants. — A despatch has 
been received from the Wei-Yuen of Macao, stating that he had 
been informed by the pilots, Chang-Too-Fang and Yang-Yuh-Tae, 
that on the 13th day of the 4th moon, 16th year of Taou-Kwang, the 
American cruisers, Kum-mar and Sze-kin-lun, anchored in the 
offing near the Nine Islands, and on inquiring of the captains of the 
two vessels, the reason for so doing, they were informed, that they 
were from their own country on a voyage to other ports, but that 
contrary winds had forced them to anchor where they then were, 
and that they had no special object in view. In addition to this, they 



TO THE PEACOCK AND ENTERPRISE. 



\75 



took a correct account of the force of these vessels, which is sub- 
mitted, and is thus: — 



r 60 Sailors, 

I 10 Great guns. 



190 Sailors, 
22 Great guns, 



OS 

s 

S 



< 



50 Muskets, 



j 50 Two-edged swords, 
I 500 Catties powder, 
L5OO Cannon balls, 



en 

g J 100 Muskets, 






N 
CO 



100 Two-edged swords, 
800 Catties powder, 
800 Cannon balls. 



** Strict orders were given to the pilots to keep up a guard over 
these ships, and control them well, and haste was made to commu- 
nicate this information. 

" Another despatch was soon received, stating, in addition to what 
had been communicated, relative to the two American cruisers, 
Kum-raar and Sze-kin-lun, having anchored near the Nine Islands, 
the pilots had farther made known, in a communication of the i4th 
day, that three boats from the cruisers, containing fifty-two men, 
had on that day pulled into the landing at Praya Grande, and on 
examination they discovered, that of these men, thirty-seven belonged 
to the cruiser Sze-kin-lun, and fifteen to the cruiser Kum-mar| 
moreover, that tliese men had all become sick on board their ships, 
being removed on shore to Macao, to dwell in houses, and receive 
medical treatment and advice, and it was intended to take them 
again on board, when they had recovered. 

** The sailors had the appearance of being sick, and none were 
strong or robust. " We again enjoined watchfulness, and to make 
known every circumstance." 

" While in the act of deliberating upon these news, 1 received a 
communication from the Governor, stating that on the 15th day of 
the 4th moon of the 16th year of Taou-Kwang, he had received a de- 
spatch from the Admiral, which made known:— That Sen-keen-ching 
the Hee of Hang-Shan had received an express from Yu-ching-ting, 
acting Pa-Tseang, which states, on the 13th day of the present moon, 
two foreign vessels were seen to come in from sea, and anchor near 
the Nine Islands, and that the pilot above named, immediately re- 
ported that they were American cruisers| that the largest was named 
Sze-kin-lun, and carried a crew of one hundred and ninety men, 
that the force was twenty -two great guns, one hundred muskets, one 
hundred sharp-edged swords, eight hundred catties powder, and eight 
hundred cannon balls. That the smallest was named Kum-mar, — - 
her crew consisted of sixty men, her force was ten great guns, fifty 



376 CHINESE EDICT. 

muskets, fifty two-edged swords, five hundred catties powder, and 
five hundred cannon balls; and on inquiring the reasons of their an- 
anchoring where they were, the captains replied, that they were from 
their own country, bound to other parts| but that contrary winds had 
forced them to their anchorage, and that they had no special object in 
view. By farther investigation, it was discovered that Sze-kin-lun, 
the largest vessel, had three masts, that she was about fourteen changs 
long, and three changs broad. On either side she had bulwarks pierced 
for twelve guns, but eleven only were mounted. The small ship was 
about seven changs long, and two changs broad: on either side she had 
bulwarks also, pierced for five guns, and these were all mounted. 
Both ships were quiet at anchor. 

" These statements are similar, but the dispositions of foreigners are 
unfathomable, and it became necessary to order out many war- 
junks to keep a strict watch, as well as to send an officer to order 
them at once to leave the port, and not to loiter about, and report 
their different movements. Now these two American cruisers, ar- 
riving at so early a period, and anchoring where they are, is duly 
made known. 

" This coming before me (the Admiral) I find on examination that 
these foreign cruisers, have heretofore arrived about the 6th moon, 
either as convoy to, or to protect vessels trading with the portj 
but these two cruisers, thus strangely coming in, and anchoring 
merely from contrary winds, leads me to doubt their intentions. 
Orders were consequently issued to the various war-junks of the 
right and left, and centre divisions, to keep up a strict guard. I 
have also ordered instant preparation of the forts and garrison for 
defence, and also returned an answer to Sen-king-ting, requiring 
him to keep a constant look-out; on no account to allow boats to 
communicate with the vessels, for the purposes of buying or selling; 
likewise to insist upon their setting sail, as consequences might arise 
from their loitering about. 

*' Uniting with this intelligence, the report made by the Hee of 
Hang- Shan, I have replied to all in ordering an active guard to be 
enforced, all the naval forces of the three divisions to be in readiness, 
and the forts on the great Tiger-Island, Wang-tong, Sha-keo and 
Ta-kes, and other defences of the river, to be put in a state of de- 
fence, — to inquire again into the reasons which led these cruisers 
here, whether their statement is correct, whether they really came 
from America, or if they have been driven here from other pro- 
vinces; at the same time upon no account to allow them to remain, to 



CHINESE EDICT. o77 

discover also to what other places they are going, and if they have a 
design to enter the port, let the truth be discovered, and every thing 
in readiness to act, as circumstances may require. They must not 
be allowed to enter the port, or the consequences may be severe; 
and should they design to go towards the coast, intelligence must 
precede them, that preparation may be made to keep them oflf. 

*' These various statements coming before me, the Hoppo, 1 find, 
that as these vessels are not trading vessels, it is inconvenient for 
them to remain where they are, as disturbances might arise, yet, as 
many of their sailors are sick, and have been removed to houses at 
Macao for medical advice, in addition to giving orders to the Wey- 
yuen and pilots at Macao, to watch them strictly, and when they 
have recovered, to insist upon their being carried back to their ships, 
that they may return to their own country. I also issue this to the Hong 
merchants, that they may immediately make known to the superin- 
tendent of affairs of that country, that so soon as the sick men have 
recovered, it is necessary that they be taken back to their ships, un- 
furl their sails and return home; they will not be permitted to delay 
and loiter about, and the day of their departure must be made known. 
Hasten, hasten! 

A Special Edict. 

"Taou-Kwang, 16th year, 4th moon, 20th day. June 3d, 1836." 

The Peacock, after landing the sick, sailed for the anchorage of 
Kum-sing-moon, opposite to Lintin, for the purpose of taking in 
Water and provisions; the Enterprise remained at Macao a few days 
longer* 



CHAPTER XXXVl. 



SKETCHES IN CHINA. 



June, 1836. 
In the appearance of Macao from the roads, there is something to 
remind one of Rio de Janeiro, without there being any thing, which 



378 MACAO. 

is particularly semblable. After having been so long from any 
Christian settlement, we looked upon it with pleasure, probably 
arising from the hope of relief which it promised for the sick 5 and 
this feeling was rendered more gratifying, by the hospitalities and 
attentions extended to us on all hands. I landed on the afternoon 
of our arrival, and was agreeably surprised to find the place superior 
to its appearance from the ship. It is clean, and there is an air of 
snugness and quiet, attributable to the almost entire absence of com- 
merce, which gives an appearance of the unmolested retirement of 
those, who fly here at certain seasons, from the drudgery of business 
and the confinement of the close factories at Canton. 

The houses are built on a curve, following the sweep of the shore, 
with a broad terrace in front; they are two stories high, in the Por- 
tuguese style, with large windows for ventilation, shaded by Veni- 
tian shutters. Penetrating the town from the playa, we find the 
streets crossing each other irregularly, now rising abruptly and again 
descending, and roughly paved with broken pebbles. 

Macao was founded early in the sixteenth century, on a peninsula 
of an island, called Heanshang, a short distance from the southern 
shore of China. 

This site was originally granted by the Chinese emperor, in con- 
sequence of important services rendered by the Portuguese at that 
period. A celebrated Chinese pirate named Tchang-si-lao had be- 
come so powerful, as to get possession and hold this island, whence 
he distrained the commerce of China, and blockaded the port of 
Canton. In their difficulties the mandarins sought and obtained aid 
of the Portuguese, who w^ere then trading at ^anshan, a town about 
fifty miles south-west of Macao, giving the gold of Africa, the spices 
of the Moluccas, and the ivory and gems of Ceylon, in exchange for 
the silks and teas of the celestial empire. They quickly gained a 
complete victory over the pirate, who, it is said, committed suicide 
in consequence, and the emperor, in token of his gratitude, presented 
the peninsula to the Portuguese, which afterwards became of great 
advantage in the trade, which they established with Japan, Cochin- 
China and Siam.* But the prosperity of Macao, following the for- 
tunes of the mother country, has fallen, and is now of little impor- 
tance to the Portuguese. 

A wall, built in 1573, separates the Portuguese possessions from 

• Establecimientos Ultramarinos. Chinese Repository, vol. iii. 



POPULATION. 379 

the Chinese, leaving them a space of one mile by three, but their 
jurisdiction is not even here exclusive. There is a Portuguese go- 
vernor, and a garrison of about two hundred men, kept in good dis- 
cipline^ but the Chinese have also their mandarins, who exercise all 
the various functions of office. The only privilege the Portuguese 
possess, is that of governing themselves^ while the Chinese popu- 
lation of the town is entirely under the control of the mandarins. 
The Portuguese pay regularly an annual ground-rent of 500 taels 
for the temporary use and profit of Macao. 

The population of Macao is estimated at twenty-five thousand, 
of which twenty thousand are Chinese. 

Portuguese Population of Macao, in 1835. 



355 

345 
643 
600 
139 

2082 



277 
322 
417 
381 
41 
1438 



448 
836 
- — - 1284 



rr. X 1 T, i. Cmales, 1816, "> aqha 

Total Portuguese pop. ^ ^^^^j^^^ g^^g^ ^ 4804 

Marriages, in 1835 48 

Baptisms, " " 142 

Deaths, « " 127 



Free wl 


^ite Females. 


From birth to 7 years old, 


7 


to 15 « 


« 15 


« 30 « 


« 30 


« 60 " 


« 60 


and upwards. 


Free white Males. 


From birth to 7 years old. 


7 


to 15 « 


" 15 


« 30 « 


« 30 


« 60 " 


« 60 


and upwards. 




Slaves. 


Males, 


Females. 



380 MORALS-— CLIMATE— AVIARY. 

The annual mortality, then, is 2.64 per cent., or about one in 38, 
which is less than that of most of the cities of Europe^ in Paris, 
Strasburg and Barcelona, it is one in 32^ in Rome 1 in 25, in Am- 
sterdam, 1 in 24 and in Vienna, 1 in 22|, while in London, it is 1 
in 40.* 

A large portion of the baptisms are of illigitimate children. The 
proportion of males to females is very unequal, and the mass of the 
population is wretchedly poor, which may account for the absence 
of chastity, said to prevail. We were told that mothers unhesita- 
tingly sell their daughters into concubinage, at very low prices, and 
often degrade them by forcing them to marry Chinese. 

In this view of the population, neither the troops, nor the inmates 
of convents, friars and nuns, are included. In 1822, the popula- 
tion was 4315, showing an increase of 489 in 13 years. 

Macao is exposed, during the summer months, to severe hurricanes, 
called typhoons, which occur almost every year, and occasionally 
leave fearful marks of their violence: windows are sometimes blown 
in, roofs carried away, and the very white-wash and plastering are 
occasionally swept off from the outside of the walls, leaving the 
town in a wretchedly piebald condition. While we remained, there 
occurred several storms accompanied by rain, lightning and thunder, 
and in one, two persons were killed in the streets. But with all this, 
it is remarkably healthy, and provisions of all kinds are abundant 
and cheap. It is a favorite resort for invalids from all parts of India, 
who generally find a short residence here of great advantage. Ves- 
sels from Batavia usually arrive in a sickly condition, and depart 
again widi their crews very much improved in health, for which they 
have been heretofore indebted as much to the kind and skilful atten- 
tions of Dr. T. R. Colledge, as to the salutary influence of the 
climate. 

There are several public buildings and churches in Macao, but I 
did not find leisure to examine them. 

Among the most interesting spots here is the aviary of Mr. Beal, 
an English merchant, who has been long a resident. It contains a 
variety of birds, among which is a bird of paradise; but we w^ere dis- 
appointed to find it was not in feather at this season. It has a keen 
eye, and is bold and rapid in its motions. It is kept separate, in a 
large wire cage, into which a servant was tossing insects; the bird 
never allowed them to fall to the bottom of his habitation, always 

* Hawkins' Medical Statistics, 



CAVE OF CAMUENS. 



catching them very skilfully in his strong beak. One regrets that so 
much beauty and fierceness should be united, as there is in this and 
many other instances in nature. A splendidly feathered krokatoa, 
of very large size, swung in a hoop, beneath the shade of a tree in 
front of the aviary; and a gibbon and a monkey were chained hard by. 
A great variety of flowers, in pots, and shrubs and trees formed 
the garden, where there is a miniature representation of time-worn, 
craggy rocks, a species of work for which the Chinese are celebrated. 
It stood on one side of a little pool of gold fish and silver fish, with 
double tails, which were seen shooting through the tiny caves and 
fissures at its base. The aviary, or great bird cage, encloses two 
trees, more than twenty feet high, and has, within it, sundry smaller 
apartments; and, in one corner, is another specimen of rock-work, 
with a pool at its base, for the use of individuals of the duck tribe. 
Within this wire prison a variety of small singing birds carroled as 
blithely as if their songs were the songs of liberty; gold and silver 
pheasants strutted about vauntingly in the pride of beauty, unmind- 
ful of their durance; the crown pigeon, as large as a peacock, with a 
high crest of feathers spread out like a fan, sat high upon a limb, to 
attract attention; ducks of various kinds chatted amicably in the pool; 
partridges and quails, at our approach, skulked away beneath the 
bushes, and the startled moose deer of Java, fled over the ornamental 
rock work, the diminutive size of the animal being in perfect keeping 
with the tiny crags and ravines, among which it sought to hide. All 
here lived harmoniously together; but the squalling, quarrelsome dis- 
position of the parrots excluded them from fellowship with the rest. 
They were kept far enough apart to prevent them from blows; but, ne- 
vertheless, like a set of termagants, they contended at a distance, no 
doubt mutually bestowing very harsh epithets, if we might judge from 
their tones. Pretty polly is, like certain maidens, only amiable when 
solitary, or enjoying the undivided attention of those around her. 

The cave of Camoens, the celebrated author of the Lusiad, is situ- 
ated in the rear of the town, in a garden, where the gravel walks, 
shaded by trees, follow the sloping hills in such a manner as to 
seemingly multiply the extent of the grounds. The spot called the 
cave, which term conveys a very erroneous notion of it, is on a height. 
It consists of two perpendicular rocks, standing on the brow of a hill^ 
about two feet apart, and each ten feet high. A heavy rock rests 
transversely on the top of them, like the lintel of a ponderous door- 
frame. The cave is two feet v;ide, by five long, and open at both 



382 BRITISH BURYING-GKOUXD. 

sides. Here, it is asserted, the poet communed with nature, and 
poured forth the inspirations of his muse — 

*' Here repair 
Many familiar with his well sung" woes, 
The pilgrims of his genius." 

Upon the transverse rock is erected a light summer house, accessi- 
ble by an ascent from the garden. It commands the view of an ex- 
tensive prospect and beautiful scenery, including, on one side, the 
inner harbor and the Chinese burial-ground, which is comparable to 
a common, full of misshapen rocks; on the other, the outer harbor; 
and between the two, the town of Macao, below, affording a bird's- 
eye view of its several streets and buildings. 

The British burial-ground is in the neighborhood, and is kept in 
neat order by the Superintendents' chaplain, who, regarding it much 
in the light of a cabinet of curiosities, never willingly permits a spe- 
cimen to be deposited without being properly labelled, and marked 
by cubes of Portland stone, or marble, for the amusement of those 
who delight to wander among the tombs, not always with a view, 
however, to brighten their morals from the rottenness of the grave. 
We may gather some notion how many worldly hopes and aspira- 
tions have been concluded here, from the pompous show of grief for 
the departed, recorded, in marble, by the living, because more tena- 
cious than the natural memory of ordinary men. 

To glance back from the last resting place, to the living world; — 
The Portuguese in Macao have preserved their national fondness for 
music and society. The piano and guitar are heard from the houses 
in almost every street at night, and on one occasion, I met a mas- 
quing party, bound upon a serenade. It consisted of a dozen indi- 
viduals, grotesquely dressed, the females, as I was told, being repre- 
sented by young members of the other sex, marching in procession 
accompanied by music, and the occasional discharge of fire works, 
and followed by a crowd of admiring rabble. Another evidence of 
fondness of amusement, I saw in a company of amateurs who enacted 
plays and parts of operas, with much credit to themselves. 

The females, seen on their way, to and from church, have strongly 
the appearance of being grand-mammas, and, to judge alone from 
their costume, so far is it in the rear of fashion, that one might ima- 
gine no innovation had been made in a hundred years. They wear 
loose figured calico gowns and mantos or scarfs over their heads, 



SOCIETY SCENES IN THE STREETS. 383 

and are usually followed by a slave bearing an umbrella, and a rug 
whereupon to kneel before the shrine at which they worship. 

Like most Spanish and Portuguese towns, this has a place of com- 
mon and general resort, in the *' praya," facing the bay. In the 
evening ladies are seen here, in sedan chairs, taking the sea air, and 
gentlemen promenading for the sake of exercise. Wheel carriages 
are unknown, and the space for riding on horseback is very limited. 

There is a very agreeable European society shut up in Macao, 
almost from the world. The ladies are left here, often for months 
together, while their lords are toiling for cash in the factories and 
close atmosphere of Canton. This is usually the case in the season 
of trade, from June till March or April. 

On landing at Macao for the first time, from a christian country, 
one is struck with the sight of many novelties. Chinese servants in 
white cotton leggings, secured at the knee with a blue silk garter^ 
wooden soled shoes, full white breeches, white frock falling below 
the hips and buttoned over on the left breastj more remarkable, 
however, for the shaven front and long tail of hair almost sweeping 
the ground, and the imperturbable quiet and self-possession written 
on the countenance, are seen, here and there sauntering before a 
gentleman's door. Now and then you pass a pair of brawny limbed 
coolies, staggering under the weight of a box or bale suspended from 
a bamboo between them, clothed in blue shirts, short trowsers and 
straw or glazed flats, tied under the chin to shelter them, either from 
sun or rain. Again, you may encounter an individual sauntering 
along, now and then casting a glance at the houses, and startling 
you with a whur, made by separating, with the thumb, the legs of a 
pair of coarse tweezers, and causing them to vibrate violently as he 
swings his hand. This is the barber, announcing his presence, and 
readiness to perform the depilatory operation a la Chinoise, for any 
who may need this service. 

Before leaving Macao I visited a Chinese school, taught by the 
(lately) missionary, the Rev. Mr. Gutzlaff and his wife. There 
were seventeen pupils reciting their lessons in turn, conveying to 
my unaccustomed ear, a sound resembling that of a simmering tea- 
kettle. I was interested in a child, totally blind, that was telling 
the alphabet to Mrs. G., who seems to be devoted to her pupils. It 
may be proper to state, that though Mr. Gutzlaif, strictly speaking, 
is no longer a missionary, he devotes all his leisure to laboring ac- 
tively in the cause. 

He introduced to me three Japanese youths who had been wrecked 



384 SAMPANS. 



on the Pacific coast of America ^ and afterwards found their way to 
China, on their route to Japan. From them he had gained a collo- 
quial facility in their language, which he hopes some day to turn to 
account in visiting that strange country.* 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 



SKETCHES IN CHINA, 



JunCi 1836. 

On the fifth of June, I determined to accompany a gentleman in 
a •' fast-boat," to Kum-sing-moon, where the Peacock was lying at 
anchor, to join there a party going to Canton. At the place of em- 
barkation, we were interrupted by a surly young mandarin, who, ac- 
cording to usage, demanded a dollar of each of us previous to going 
afloat; a tax levied on all foreigners who have not their own, or as 
the Chinese express it, * Europe boat,' to carry them off. The man- 
darin treated us with an air of contemptuous condescension, and ex- 
amined our dollars very carefully, first rejecting one and then ano- 
ther, because he found some point or figure more worn than pleased 
his fancy. At last we cut short his examination, by leaving him the 
sum in hand, putting the rest into our pockets. 

"While we were thus engaged, the tindal or commander of the * fast- 
boat,' engaged by our comprador, Hardfacey, had called for a sam- 
pan, a short, flat boat with a bamboo cover. Sampans here are navi- 
gated exclusively by women, and are used as passage boats from the 
shore to ships in the roads. Their shape is not unlike the half of a 
water-melon. Each one is usually managed by three Tartar wo- 
men, who are short, stout, ugly viragos, and live in their boat, which 
they keep remarkably clean; the wood being daily scoured with sand, 

* A mission ship has lately sailed from Macao for Japan, with these persons 
on board. 



FAST-BOAT. 385 

wears the cleanly appearance of a well kept milk-pail. An oar, made of 
two pieces, one end lapping the other in the centre, resting at this point 
upon the round head of an iron pin in the stern, extends into the water: 
one end, is constantly heneath its surface, while the other is connect- 
ed by a long rattan to the bottom of the boat. The chief of the wo- 
men stands on one side of the oar, and pushes it backwards and for- 
wards, or rather from side to side; which, from the mode of the con- 
trivance, causes the oar-blade to turn so as to offer itself diagonally 
to the water, and produce the effects of a skull. A second oar is 
pulled by a woman, sitting on a low stool near the bow. Their cos- 
tume consists of a pair of broad pantaloons, of a black stuff which 
turns water, worn under a long blue Nankin frock or jacket, fitting 
closely round the neck, and a handkerchief, folded diagonally, is 
worn over the head and tied under the chin. The passengers are ac- 
commodated v/ith stools in the centre of the boat. 

The call for a sampan brought a half dozen to the beach, from their 
place of anchorage, a short distance off; all, eager for employment, 
plying their skill to reach the shore first, and at the same time calling 
out, " my boat, good boat; me know you, sir." Some of these water 
nymphs had very white teeth, which they displayed, wreathed in 
smiles, in order to obtain our custom. One was at last selected, and 
we were soon alongside of the 'fast boat,' our women shouting tri- 
umph over their competitors, who retorted most lustily, until we were 
beyond ear-shot; but, fortunately for us, perhaps, in a language we 
did not comprehend. 

One might imagine that the fast-boat, obtained its name from its 
qualities of swiftness. This one was a rude vessel of ten or eleven 
tons, with a single mast of bamboo, on which a coarse mat sail was 
hoisted. The interior was comfortless in the last degree, offering no 
other accommodation than some rush mats spread in the hold, to which 
we were invited to descend. No sooner was she under way, and her 
side offered to a stiff breeze, than she began to careen fearfully, and 
dance merrily over the waves. A small box of large pebbles stood 
in the stern, by way of moveable ballast, or arms and ammunition to 
fight their way, in event of being opposed. 

On reaching the roads, we were rejoiced to find the Enterprise 
just about to sail for Kum-sing-moon, and got quickly on board with- 
out regretting the exchange of quarters. In a few minutes she was 
put before the wind, and, passing several vessels in the track, an- 
chored close to the Peacock, about four o'clock, P. M. 

Kum- sing-moon is the anchorage of vessels trading to Canton, 
49 



386 



CONSUMPTION OF OPIUM IN CHINA. 



during the S. W. monsoon, the season of typhoons, and is considered 
more safe than that at Lintin, which is at no great distance. Either at 
one or at the other, one or two vessels remain throughout the year, used 
as depots for the opium of India, whence it is smuggled into China, in 
very large amounts, affording those who engage in the trade, ample 
profits^ and, if they be not too frequently unsuccessful in their smug- 
gling expeditions, large fortunes are speedily acquired. The use, or 
rather, the intemperate abuse of opium among the Chinese is not less 
baleful in its effects, than are those of alcoholic spirits among chris- 
tians. Strong edicts are frequently issued by the emperor against 
its introduction, and occasionally boats are caught and the opium con- 
fiscated. The inferior officers of the customs, employed to prevent 
this trade, find their interest in conniving at it, and now and then 
only, assuming a virtue they have not, making a seizure to keep up 
an appearance of vigilant honesty. 

The India opium, from Patna, Benares, and Malwa, finds its way 
from the deposite ships to all parts of China. Its price varies, accord- 
ing to the quality, from $500 to $800 the chest, of lbs. 133^, the old 
being considered most profitable. The quantity consumed, and its 
estimated value for nine 3^ears, is stated in the following table, from 
which we may conjecture the number of opium eaters in the celestial 
empire. 

Estimate of the Quantity and Value of India Opium, consumed 
IN China for nine Years. 



Season. 





Chests. 


Value in Dollars, 


1827-28, 


11,111, 


10,425,075, 


1828-29, 


11,409, 


12,533,105, 


1829-30, 


15,643, 


12,057,157, 


1830-31, 


20,108, 


12,904,263, 


1831-32, 


15,823, 


11,501,584, 


1832-33, 


21,279, 


15,352,429, 


1833-34, 


20,213|, 


11,006,605, 


1834-35, 


21,653, 


11,758,779, 


1835-36, 


26,200, 


17,106,903. 



About six o'clock, P. M. our party got on board of a pilot boat schoo- 
ner, comfortably arranged for passengers, being one of several, which 
form a packet line between Macao and Canton. One leaves each 
place daily, according to the newspaper, but there is no regularity in 
their departure. They are all manned by Hindoos or Bombaymen, 
who conduct their vessels with skill and propriety. 



THE BOCA-TIGRIS LORD NAPIER. 387 

We got under way in a heavy rain, and it speedily became dark, 
leaving us to pass the time, in the cabin, either in conversation or 
sleep.- At seven o'clock the next morning we anchored; the tide was 
against us, and it had flillen calm. We were in sight of the Boca- 
Tigris, or Bogue, which the Chinese consider to be the mouth of 
Pearl River, on the north bank of which is seated the commercial ca- 
pital of the celestial empire. 

The Bogue is defended by two forts, built without those precautions 
which areindicative of military science and skill . It is the site of most 
of t!ie wars, waged between foreign navies and the Chinese; and its his- 
torical importance has been lately enhanced by the blundering ex- 
ploits of the late Lord Napier, v/no, in consequence of failing in his 
objects, died of chagrin; and not by any atrocious cruelty of the Chi- 
nese, as has been, we are sorry to think, somewhat maliciously al- 
leged. A perusal of the English reports of this matter, leads us to 
suppose, they are purposely couched in bombastic grandiloquence, in 
imitation of Chinese edicts, to excite a strong feeling at home, and 
induce the king and parliament, to batter the forts and houses about 
the ears of the inhabitants, in revenge for not being permitted to 
break with impunity the Chinese customs and laws. How far they 
will succeed, time will discover. 

His Excellency, Governor Loo, managed the affair as he would 
have done a game of chess. Looking forward to his object, he dis- 
regarded the pawns and smaller pieces, which may represent the 
' broadcloths, camblets, and watches,' as ' unv/orthy a serious thought,' 
and pushed my lord until he was checkmated. In vain may Eng- 
land, in conformity with the petition of her merchants resident at 
Canton, endeavor to wipe away the disgrace of the foil. Her force 
cannot do any serious injury to China, as a nation, though she may 
destroy millions of property and human lives; because, in China, hu- 
manity does not enter into the policy of her government, and, in all 
probability, it would cost England more, in life and treasure, than 
the trade she might afterwards obtain therefor would be worth; and 
it will take cunning argument to induce the Emperor to wipe from 
his records, that the British king had submissively sent him tribute. 
Nor can she hope to gain much by negotiation. So much treachery 
has marked the political intercourse of England with the East, from 
the beginning, we ought not to be surprised, that those nations not al- 
ready in her grasp distrust every overture of amity proiFered from 
her. 

A very small proportion of the three hundred and sixty millions of 



388 LORD NAPIER. 

China care little whether England sends them broadcloths, camlets 
and watches, or not; and thej feel assured that England wnst have 
tea, silk, and rhubarb. And, in spite of the millions of Chinese who 
depend on commerce for subsistence, they think the nation can do 
better without foreign intercourse than foreign nations can without 
their trade. They have learned, too, that their trade is so important 
to foreigners, they have heretofore invariably gained the ascendency 
by interrupting it, always more successful in their contests by an ap- 
peal to the pocket than to arms; thus proving the assertion of a great 
English writer, that "Nothing dejects a trader like the interruption 
of his profits. A commercial people, however magnanimous, shrinks 
at the thought of declining trade, and an unfavorable balance."* The 
English merchants will probably find it their interest to submit to the 
terms of the Chinese for the next half century, or sacrifice the trade. 
It seems out of the question to attempt to gain privileges here by 
force. Heretofore they have been inyariably foiled. To be success- 
fully exercised against the Chinese government, the force must be 
grand, perhaps equal to one-fourth of the collected power of England, 
and brought forth deliberately, v/ithout anticipating much from coup 
de main warfare; and "a commercial people, however magnani- 
mous," can do without national glory, when there is no certainty of 
obtaining it speedily, and, at the same time, with a favorable balance. 
The knightly lance and the leger are never quartered in the same 
heraldric field. Had they followed a more simple course, and re- 
mained satisfied, after the expiration of the Company's charter, with 
sending to Canton the lowest grade of consul, without parade or os- 
tentation, the trade would not have been interrupted, the nation 
would have been spared the mortification which Lord Napier's ex- 
pulsion must have occasioned, and the twenty-five thousand pounds 
a year, paid, in salaries, to those of the Superintendent establish- 
ment, might have been appropriated to some more useful purpose. 
In corroboration of this opinion, we find that the American consul is 
recognised by the authorities at Canton, and all goes on smoothly, 

I am glad the Americans there had shrewdness enough to pursue 
a course of policy in the late affair, which kept their interests dis- 
tinct from those of the English; for neither party would have gained 
by the union: besides, however close their connexions in social inter- 
course and individual friendship ought to be, commercial and national 
interest must be a thing apart. No man should forget his nationality. 

* Taxation no Tyranny. ' 



CHINESE REPOSITORY. S89 

To do SO, for an instant, is to be recreant to his country, and to prove 
himself unworthy to retread her soil. Still, 1 would not have him 
forget the maxim, "« Rome comme a llomeP but, when he cannot, 
with propriety, conform to the laws and customs of the country he 
visits, let him retire to another, or seek: his native skies, without ex- 
pecting to change a nation's customs and policy to suit his peculiar 
views. 

' *• J'aime qu'un Russe soit Russe, 

Et qu'un Anglais soit Anglais. 
Si Ton est Prussien en Prusse, 
En France soyons Frangais. 

Jjs * ^ :f; fs 

•!• 'T* T* T* 'r* 

Mes amis, mes amis, 
Soyons de notre pays, 
Oui, soyons de notre pays." 

The third volume of the *' Chinese Repository " contains a circum- 
stantial account of Lord Napier's failure, and of his melancholy 
death, with a number, if not all, the documents in relation to the 
whole affair. His lordship was a worthy, amiable man| but, unfor- 
tunately, not of a disposition to meet the temporizing measures which 
are the great weapons of the Chinese. We doubt, however, whether 
the writer, or writers of those articles be free from prejudice^ for they 
are evidently warmed with the subject, almost as much as if it had 
been a personal affair of his or their own. They are thoroughly Eng- 
lishj indeed, the character of the Repository is so entirely British, that 
we should never suspect the editor to be an American of the United 
States. It is a work that would give reputation to any man, without 
considering the benevolent and laudatory objects which it has in 
view. Its pages contain more information, in relation to the East, 
embodied in a pleasing form, than can be found in the range of many 
large libraries. It deserves success, and I should be glad to see its 
list of subscribers increase. 

The continued calm did not accord with our impatience to reach 
Canton. For several hours we had nothing better to do than occupy 
ourselves looking at the Bogue and the forts. The scenery is moun- 
tainous and varied. 

Several sampans approached, skulling and rowing. Their navi- 
gators were talking loudly, and, when not bickering among them- 
selves, they levelled their abuse at us, the tone of which was alone 



390 PASSAGE UP PEARL RIVER. 

comprehensible. The youngest of the crew was always in the bowsj 
and, when there were children on board, they held out their hands, 
crying "Cumshaw — present." 

About three o'clock in the afternoon, the tide being favorable, we 
got under way with a very light breeze, and slowly passed the Bogue, 
where the Chinese gunnery astonished the Imogen and Andromache. 
By ten o'clock, we had reached the anchorage at Whampoa, forty le 
or twelve miles from Canton, where we were again obliged to anchor. 

The flood tide, at two o'clock the next morning, brought with it a 
light wind, and we again made sail. Daylight came gradually on, 
and discovered, on our right, low meadow land, verdant with rice 
plants, and fringed to the water's edge with shrubbery. In the back 
ground, where not concealed by their vapory clouds floating between 
us and their summits, the mountains rose in broken and undulating 
outline against the sky. The stream was pressed by numerous sam- 
pans, and cargo or chop boats of large size, moving in different di- 
rections. As the sun rose, the scene grew more animated, and his 
increasing beams seemed to infuse new life into those laboring at the 
oar. Two chop boats of not less than a hundred tons, propelled by 
three large skulls over the stern, each managed by one or two men, 
were side by side, trying their speed. They glided swiftly along, 
and the rowers were in high spirits, who, for the sake of coolness, 
wore nothing but a pair of loose short drawers. One of them rushed 
across the deck of his vessel, always tossing a leg in the air behind 
him, as he gave a sudden and strong impulse to his oar in pushing it 
from him, before applying his force in the opposite direction. The 
race was pretty equal for some time, until a more than ordinarily 
energetic push broke my man's oar: there was a boisterous laugh, and 
the other boat glided a-head. 

We were now in sight of two tall towers, divided into several sto- 
ries by corridors or roofs, turning up in points. They are white, but 
in many places have patches of green vegetation upon them, impart- 
ing the appearance of considerable age. They are usually termed 
pagodas by foreigners, though they are not resorted to as places of 
worship, but appear to have been originally designed for watch tow- 
ers. *' The one, called Hwa-ta, was built more than thirteen hundred 
years ago; it has nine stories, is octagonal, and ITO feet in height. 
The other called, Kwan^-ta, was built in the time of the Tang dy- 
nasty, which closed, A. D. 906. It is broad at the base and slender 
towards the top. Its height is 160 feet. Anciently it was surmount- 
ed by *a golden cock, which turned every way with the wind;' but 



APPROACH TO THE CITY OF CANTON. 391 

that was broken down and carried off to the capital, and its place af- 
terwards supplied by a wooden one, which long since disappeared."* 
We advanced slowly. Every step of our progress was marked by 
increasing numbers of boats, plying in different directions. Large 
junks, either riding at anchor or skulling with the tide, became more 
frequent. As we drew nearer to the city, vessels with oval or arched 
decks, curiously carved, were anchored along the shores. These are 
the permanent abodes of many people, and some of them are em- 
ployed as salt stores. We had passed a fort, called Howqua's, and 
were not far from another, named Dutch Folly. The flags flying in 
front of the several factories were now in sight, but the tide was run- 
ning so strongly against us, we got into one of the many sampans that 
had been some time hovering round us, soliciting our custom. We 
moved along very comfortably, and soon entered a narrov/ passage, 
between a line of junks, moored head and stern, close to the shore, 
and another line at anchor at no great distance. This seemed a per- 
fect labyrinth of sampans, moving and turning in every direction, 
and the confusion was not a little increased, in our minds, by the hum 
of voices and rushing of the tide. Yet on we moved, turning now 
to the right and now to the left, to avoid sampans passing within a 
few inches of us, keeping me in constant apprehension that we should 
come in contact and capsize? but the admirable skill of our river 
nymphs saved us from all rencontres. 

We saw on our way, in the galleries of the junks, or in light flat 
boats beautifully fitted and ornamented, Chinese females gaily 
dressed, seated in the cabins or apartments, which are tastefully ar- 
ranged. Some of them we passed very closely and attracted their 
attention. We observed that the hair was prettily disposed on the 
back part of the head, being formed in an oval braid round a centre 
knot, through which was a broad skewer of metal — gold, silver, or 
brass — passes to secure the whole. It was nicely oiled, shining, 
black, and comparable to a duck's back. The hair was combed back- 
wards from the forehead, and, in some instances, a small flower was 
so placed as to give a pleasing finish to the head-dress. It was very 
perceptible, that they were indebted to the toilet for the roses of 
their cheeksj and, in some, the centre of the lower lip was colored of 
a bright pink. In spite of their exquisitely long finger nails and am- 
ple dresses, these demoiselles possess nothing to attract one from the 
countries of the West. 

After a pull of about two miles through an indescribable scene — - 

* Chinese Repository. 



392 CITY OF CANTON. 

Reader, imagine 84,000 boats, either at rest, or moving in all direc- 
tions, inhabited bj men, women and children, the infants having 
gourds tied to their backs to buoj them in event of falling overboard, 
making up a floating population of not less than one hundred and 
fifty thousand^ imagine this, and you will then have a very faint idea 
of Pearl River, where it passes Canton. We landed, in the midst 
of a heavy shower, in front of the factories, and soon entered the 
dwellings of our respective friends. The area before the factories, 
was occupied, in part, by several huge umbrellas, used as tents to 
shelter fruit, &c., offered for sale, under some of which were hud- 
dled together, some more than half naked China-men, and all drip- 
ping with rain, v/hile others were hurrying in opposite directions in 
search of shelter. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

SKETCHES IN CHINA. 

June^ 1836. 

Canton, or as it is written on the native maps, Kwang-tung Sang- 
ching, that is, "the capital of the province of Kwang-tung," is built 
on the northern bank of the Choo-keang or Pearl River, sixty miles 
inland from the "great sea," and about eighty from Macao. The 
foreign factories, already alluded to, are situated a short distance 
from the south-west corner of the city walls, in 23° 7' ll'' north lati- 
tude, and in 113° 14' 30'^ east longitude from Greenwich. 

The scenery in the neighbourhood of the city is rich and diversified, 
but does not present any thing bold or grand. The country to the 
north, and north-east, is hilly and mountainous. A wide prospect 
opens in every otlicr direction. The numerous rivers and canals 
abound with fish, and%T.re covered with an almost endless variety of 
boats, which are continually passing to and from the neighboring 
towns and villages. Southward from the city, as far as the eye can 
see, the waters cover a considerable portion, perhaps one-third of the 



CITY OF CANTON. 393 

whole surface. Rice fields and gardens occupy the low lands, with 
only here and there a few little hills and small groves of trees, rising 
up to diversify the otherwise unbroken landscape. The city itself, 
including the suburbs, is not of very great extent; and though very 
populous, derives its chief importance from its extensive domestic 
and foreign trade. 

The city of Canton is among the oldest in this part of the empire. 
It is not easy, and perhaps not possible, to determine its original 
site and name, or to ascertain at what period it was first built, though 
the historians date its foundation about 2,000 years ago. 

That part of the city which is within the walls, is built nearly in 
the form of a square, and is divided by a wall, running east and 
west, into what are termed the old and new city. The streets 
are numerous and very crooked, varying in breadth from two to six- 
teen feet'y but are generally six or eight feet wide, and every where 
flagged with large stones, chiefly granite. The entire circuit of the 
walls, which are built of sand-stone and bricks, varying in height 
from twenty-five to forty feet, and in thickness, from twenty to 
twenty-five, is estimated at about six miles. The v/alls are pierced by 
sixteen small gates, which foreigners are never permitted to pass, 
except in case of fire, when their aid is eagerly sought. The suburbs, 
taken collectively, are scarcely less populous or less extensive, than 
the city itself, and in their general features, are alike. 

The foreign factories, or buildings occupied by foreign factors or 
merchants, cover a plot of ground, extending about two hundred yards 
from east to west, fronting on the river, and a hundred and thirty 
yards north and south. They are either of granite or brick, two 
stories high, and present a substantial front, which has a veranda, 
supported by pillars, the spaces between which, are closed by Veni- 
tian shutters. They form, with the American and several foreign 
flags in front of them, a striking contrast with the scene around. 
They face upon an open area, equal to their length, and perhaps 
fifty yards wide, which is crossed in front of the buildings, by a 
broad pavement, which is stated to be the limits allotted to foreign- 
ers for taking exercise, though they may be seen pulling on the river 
in their own boats, occasionally visiting Honan, and the Fa-ti gar- 
dens, besides perambulating the streets of the suburbs, and the grounds 
about the walls of the city. 

The factories are the property of the Hong merchants, a compa- 
ny of twelve Chinese, through whose medium ail intercourse be- 
tween foreign residents and the Chinese government must take 
50 



394 HONGS— DOMESTIC LIFE. 

place. The factories are thirteen in number, and are styled the 
" Thirteen Factories:" besides, each has a name intended to be indi- 
cative of good fortune. The first, on the east, is the factory of '' Jus- 
tice and Peace," but known to foreigners as the *' Creek Factory." 
The second, or Dutch, is the " Factory of collected Justice;" the 
third, the British, or "Factory that ensures Tranquillity." This is 
separated from the fourth, or '* The great and affluent Factory," by 
a narrow street; the fifth, is the " Old English Factory;'' the sixth, 
the " Swedish Factory;" the seventh, the *' Imperial Factory;" the 
eighth, the "Precious and prosperous Factory;" the ninth, the Ame- 
rican, or the " Factory of wide Fountains." China Street separates 
this from the tenth, which is occupied by a Hong merchant, Mingqua. 
The eleventh, is the French; the twelfth the Spanish, and the thir- 
teenth, separated from the last by New China Street, is the Da- 
nish. 

Each of these factories, or, as they are commonly spoken of in 
Canton, Hongs, is divided into five or more houses, by narrow courts. 
A broad arched way leads through the middle of each Hong, from 
front to rear, by which the several houses or factories are accessi- 
ble. 

I have given thus much of the topography, for the better under- 
standing of my readers, and beg to refer those who desire more local 
information, to the second volume of the Chinese Repository, which 
I have freely used. 

On landing, I entered the ^* Imperial Hong," and was met at the 
entrance of the thoroughfare by a number of Chinese servants, in 
clean white garments, wooden-soled shoes, and hair nicely braided, 
and almost sweeping the ground. An old man, with a pencil in his 
hand, quickly appeared from an office on the left, and gave some di- 
rections to those around who were accustomed to obey, and we were 
led up stairs to receive the welcome of an old acquaintance. A ser- 
vant was appointed for each of us, and in a few minutes we were 
comfortably disposed of for so long as we might remain in *'the pro- 
vincial city of the flowery land," as the Chinese, in their grandilo- 
quence, delight to distinguish it. 

Though ** ladies, great guns, and other military weapons " are not 
permitted to be brought to Canton by foreigners, they manage to ob- 
tain all the luxuries of the table, and a large share of domestic com- 
fort. The system of the establishment is similar to that of India, ex- 
cept that the steward, there called a dubash, is here a comprador, 
and the host is entirely dependent upon him for every thing con- 



SOCIETY— TAILORS. 395 

nected with the household. The comprador has a special license for 
his vocation; be engages the servants, supplies the table, and controls 
every thing connected with housekeeping. Besides, he is a banker, and, 
on the order of his employer, pays for all purchases, so that one may 
live in Canton for years, and never have occasion to defile his fingers 
with cash. To us visiters this was very convenient; for, instead of car- 
rying a weight of money in our pockets, for the purchase of trifles, 
we made a deposite with the worthy comprador, and drew occasional 
drafts on him, which, with the shopmen, were as current as cash. 

The foreign society is limited; the number of residents, including 
clerks, does not, probably, exceed one hundred and fifty. Social 
visiting and dining are frequent, but we are not certain that the so- 
ciety is bound more closely by the bonds of viands and wine. The 
*' Union Club" is established for the purpose of bringing together, 
more frequently, the foreigners, where they efface any unpleasant 
feelings which may be excited in the rivalry of business. The older 
residents, generally, abstain from wine, on account of its unfavorable 
effects upon the health; and, in lieu thereof, drink tea, which appears 
on the table in such guise that the eye uninitiated may readily mis- 
take it. Wine is brought in quantities to Canton, where the climate 
operates very much to its improvement. Besides other good things 
of the table, we see here the famous China capon and delicious broad- 
tail mutton, from the cape of Good Hope; and almost any tea-drink- 
ing old lady, by a visit to Canton, would be rendered miserable for 
the rest of her life; the flavor and bouquet of the China herb loses so 
much in crossing the broad seas. 

Our first intercourse with the. children of the "ilowery land '' was 
held with a tailor and a shoemaker. They speedily answered, in 
person, to our summons. The tailor came first. He was a small, 
round-shouldered man, in white costume, bearing a bundle under his 
arm, tied in a handkerchief. He bowed as he entered, or, rather, 
quickly ducked his head, saying, " Chin, chin," — your most obe- 
dient. 

" Are you a tailor?" 

*' Yes, sir; you have got make some pigeon with me.^ Me glad see 
you— me make all true pigeon. What thing you suppose you want- 
shey?" 

•' Grass-cloth jackets and pongee pantaloons." 

" Have got — have got — suppose you wantshey lookey muster;" at 
the same time untying his bundle, and producing a variety of pat- 
terns of grass-cloth and silk pongee; he displayed the first, saying, 
" This grass-cloth good thing, — number one, first chop — wantshey?'. 



/ 
396 ANGLO-CHINESE LANGUAGE, 

" How much for a dozen jackets?" 

*' One dozen piece jacket," looking thoughtfully for a moment, 
and then adding," one dollar one make twelve dollar-— can do?" 

" How soon will they be finished?" 

*' When he wantshej?" 

" Very soon." 

" Suppose next day to-morrow?" 

"Yes!" 

" Can do — can do — me make measure," which he did in the usual 
way, and took an old jacket as a guide by which to fashion the new 
ones. This done, he went on; — '* No wantshey pantaloon pongee, "• — 
at the same time displaying the article — **one good thing- — number 
one good thing, first chop — can secure — me no speaky two tongue." 
In this way he despatched business, taking each article separately, 
and deciding all in relation to it before proceeding to inquire whe- 
ther other garments were wanting. 

The above is a specimen of Anglo-Chinese, as it is spoken and un- 
derstood, not only by the Chinese shopmen and merchants, but by 
the foreign residents holding intercourse with them. This strange 
mongrel is regularly taught in the Chinese elementary schools, as a 
branch of education, and it would be difficult, perhaps, to exchange 
ideas with them in any other. 

The shoemaker next appeared, and began with the salutation, 
" Chin chin," and was soon despatched. In both instances, these 
men were prompt, and gave satisfaction in their respective contracts. 
Indeed, such is the general character of this class of people; but all 
hold it a point of honor to get as much in a bargain as possible, 
but, when that is made, the terms are rigidly adhered to in most in- 
stances. 

The imitativeness of the Chinese is proverbial, and it is stated, 
that some years since, tailors would imitate an old garment even to 
the patches and darns; but such instances are at present rare. 
Something of the kind occurred to me. I directed an ivory-dealer to 
have two seals cut, and told him in what manner I wished them 
executed. When these were finished, I ordered a third, and with a 
pencil, carelessly wrote the letters to be engraved thereon, directing 
that it should be executed like the others. 

" Very well — he wantshey all same, same?" 

"Yes." 

When presented, it was a fac simile of my careless writing, and 
when I explained the mistake, he defended himself, saying, that I 
had ordered it to be " all the same, same." 



CHINESE BARBERS. S97 

After dinner, we adjourned to the veranda, from which we had a 
bird's eye view in front. The shower had passed, and several 
groups of Chinese were standing and chatting together. One group 
held birds, in cages, which thej bring out every day for the sake of 
an airing. Another party were squatted in a circle, seemingly in 
idle conversation, where they remained for a half hour, and then 
went their respective ways. 

Here and there was seen a Chinaman, in blue, seated on a pyra- 
midal red stool with several drawers below the top, and near to him, 
a small bucket with a long staff fixed to one side of it. These are 
barbers; a class of artists, which numbers in Canton no less than 
7,300, and, as in other countries, it is asserted, their success in busi- 
ness depends upon their talent for talk and gossip. At this hour few 
were employed; but in the early part of the day, they are all busy 
shaving the heads and dressing the long cues of their countrymen. 
A Chinaman will defend this appendage till the last, its loss being a 
disgrace which cannot be readily washed away. If he lose it when 
absent from the empire, he never returns until it has acquired a le- 
gitimate length. I have watched the barbers at midday when the 
sun was shining in full blaze, to see them follow the long shade of 
the flag-stalFin front of the factory, as the advance of the sun caused 
the shadow to change its position, thus securing tlie advantages of an 
airing. Towards sunset, the chest of drawers and bucket were se- 
cured to a shoulder stick, and they moved off shop and all. 

Along the pavement, foreign clerks were promenading up and 
down for the sake of exercise; while here and there, a pair of Par- 
sees, the finest-looking people in the East, were sauntering to and 
fro. The river was alive with boats, and one or two trim-built 
wherries were seen gliding in the throng, pulled by English gentle- 
men, for the sake of health. 

The morning after our arrival, we set out to see whatever was to 
be seen of the *' flowery land." We were met at the door by a 
Chinaman, with a basket of ivory toys, who, with a smiling face, so- 
licited our patronage; but finding his articles did not please us, as a 
last test of our taste, he inquired, *' No wantshey big mandarin 
sodger knife," at the same time exhibiting a short sword, in a scab- 
bard, ornamented and covered with tortoise-shell. 

The barbers were busy all over the area, and people were hurry- 
ing in every direction in pursuit of trade. Some with umbrellas, and 
others content to shelter the head from the sun, by holding up a 
fan. Along the wall, near China Street, a number of old women. 



398 CAT AND DOG MARKET— COOKERY CHINA STREET. 

miserably clad, their little feet bandaged and protruded into notice, 
sat busily sewing with a bag of rags beside them. The corner of the 
street was covered with red placards, containing edicts in Chinese 
characters, reminding one of the vicinity of a theatre at home. At 
this spot, too, sat several people with coops and cages, which we 
found, on examination, to contain cats and dogs, fatted for the table, 
which were in their respective ways testifying their desire to be en- 
larged from prison. The purchasers were always particular to look 
closely at puss'-eyes, the state of which is considered to be the cri- 
terion of the healthful condition of the animal. Eat cats and dogs! 
Whether delicious or not, I am not prepared to say; but I know of 
no good reason against eating them. Education and habit have de- 
cided the matter for most of us. If we be disgusted with these as 
articles of diet, I am sure few of us will turn from the fatted capon, 
the duck, the goose, or the turkey, the dressing of which the Chinese 
cooks understand as well as any people living. Indeed, if the state 
of the art of cookery in a nation were to be received as a criterion of 
its civilization, I should vote the Chinese the most civilized people 
on earth. Birds'-nest soups and jellies, bichos do mar, sharks'-lins, 
and sea-weed, are made palatable; fruits and vegetables of all sorts 
are converted into sweetmeats of all kinds; among which ginger, 
oranges and bamboo are not the least sapid. 

Before entering China Street, several shopmen had put their re- 
spective cards into our hands, assuring us, in a confidential tone, 
*' You come my house, you find all true pigeon; me no speakey two 
tongue." China Street, the widest in the suburbs, is twelve feet 
wide, well paved, and, perhaps, three hundred feet long. It is lined 
on each side by narrow stores, two stories high, having verandas in 
front, and all painted green and black. In these shops are chiefly 
kept samples of goods, where you may purchase a yard or a cargo at 
nearly the same rate. They are very damp, at least at this season, 
and the shelves upon which the silks, &c., are placed, are made in 
gratings, and their front is usually closed by wooden shutters. Two 
or three times a week charcoal fires are set beneath, and the heated 
air permeates the goods, and corrects the dampness of the atmosphere. 
Neat laquered signs hang at the doors, done in simple English, as 
** Washing, Dealer in Silks," &c. 

On entering one of these shops, you are welcomed with " Chin, 
chin," and a door which separates the shop from a small vestibule in 
front, is closed to shut out intruders, and prevent the gathering of a 
curious crowd in the street. Besides, beggars are wont to take this 



/ 



SHOPS MEASURES SWAN-PAN. 399 

opportunity to enter, and it is against the custom to send theui away 
empty-handed; nor can they be persuaded to move without some 
trifle,- but remain, stunning the ears by striking together two pieces 
of bamboo, until bribed to depart. 

A counter six feet long and one and a half wide, covered with 
oil-cloth, stands a little in front of the shelves. Before it is a table, 
on each side of v.hich are seats for the purchasers, that they may ex- 
amine the goods at ease. Beneath the table is an altar of the Chi- 
nese penates, consisting of a sheet of red paper inscribed with Chi- 
nese characters, before which continually burns a red wax taper or a 
small lamp. 

Almost every thing is sold by weight, whether silk or poultry, vege- 
tables or silver, by the following table: 

10 Cash, (/e,) 1 Candareen, = 5.7984 gi-s. Troy. 

10 Candareens, (furiy) 1 Mace, = 57.984 grs. Troy. 

10 Mace, (tseen,) 1 Tael, = 579.084 grs. Troy. 

10 Tael, (leang^) 1 Catty, = li lb. avoirdu, 

100 Catties, - 1 Pecul, = 1331 lbs. « 

It is to be observed that the words Cash, Candareens, Mace, Tael, 
Catty and Pecul, are not Chinese words, and are never used by the 
Chinese among themselves; and why foreigners have employed them 
instead of the ligitimate terms, it is difficult to conjecture/' The 
above, with slight modifications, are the standard weights, both of 
money and of commerce. Though the shopmen tell the prices in 
dollars, they keep their accounts decimally according to the following 
table. 

10 Cash, - - - 1 Candareen, 

10 Candareen, - - - 1 Mace, 

10 Mace, - - - 1 Tael, = $1,38. 

On every counter is seen an instrument, called a *' swan-pan," or 
counting board, with which the Chinese perform calculations in num- 
bers with surprising facility. This abacus, or arithmetical board, 
consists of an oblong frame of wood, about a foot long, having a bar 
running lengthwise, about two-thirds its width from one side. 
Through this bar, at right angles, are inserted a number of parallel 
wires, having moveable balls on them, five on one side of the bar and 
two on the other. The principle on which computation is made is 
this; that any ball in the larger compartment, being placed against 

* Chinese Repository. 



400 CHINA STREETS CABINET MAKERS. 

the bar and called unity, decreases or increases by tenths, hundredths, 
&C.5 and the corresponding balls in the smaller division, by fifths, 
fiftieths, &c. If one in the smaller compartment is placed against 
the middle bar, the opposite unit or integer, which may be any one 
of the digits, is multiplied by five.* 

This method is of Tartar origin, and was used in Russia until 
Ferguson, a Scotch mathematician, introduced arithmetic. Arabic 
numerals found their way into Europe in the ninth century, through 
the Spaniards, who were the first to adopt them. The Russian em- 
pire received the Arabic method of counting a thousand years after- 
wardsj and even to this day, the ancient method of counting is met 
with among its people. Such is the fate of the arts^ they slowly 
find their way round the world. 

When several articles are purchased by an individual from one 
shopman, he customarily makes the purchaser a present, which goes 
under the name of *' cumshaw," and is equivalent to the per centage 
deducted in some cases with us for cash. The Chinese shopmen are 
very adroit in putting up packages, and if they be opened by foreign- 
ers, it is rarely they can be again put into the same neat form. 

The shops are nearly all alike, both in China and in New-China 
Streets. We find in them dealers in ivory, in silk, silver and gold, 
laquered warej &c.; shops for birds and bird-cages, shells, fireworks 
and insects, which are not worthy separate description. 

Both China Streets are crowded during the early part of the day, 
and we see here the stalls of the medical fraternity. They are 
usually seated in the midst of little baskets of dry herbs, which they 
are always compounding in a rude mortar, when not engaged with 
the complainings of a patient. Their prescriptions seem to be as 
much esteemed for quantity as quality, some of the doses resembling 
more a mash for a horse than a potion for a man. 

A narrow street, crosses, nearly at right angles the heads of China 
streets, where the concourse is always very great. Here we see men 
with flat baskets of fish hung at each end of a shoulder staffs sedan 
chairs, which foreigners are not allowed to use; and some with um- 
brellas, all moving in opposite directions, and yet avoiding collision. 
Like the other two, this street is filled by various small shops. At 
one end of it we find the cabinet makers, collected together, busily 
employed, fashioning ebony, rose and camphor woods, into desks, 
chairs, trunks, &c., which have found their way all over the world. 

* Establecimientos Ultramar inos. Tom. iv. Madrid, 1788. 



TINKERS TUTENAGUE. 401 

Like the mechanics in other parts of the East, we find these making 
almost as much use of their feet and toes as of their hands. Even a 
smalf writing desk goes through a process in the manufacture which 
might be termed building, for their work-shops have nothing like a 
bench or table for tools, or any contrivances for abridging labor. 
The mechanics are usually seated flat upon the floor with their 
task between their legs and the very few tools they use, scattered on 
either side of them within reach. 

There is another street, inhabited chiefly by tinkers, who produce 
many household utensils, from a metallic compound, closely resem- 
bling silver, known in commerce as tutenague, or China spelter. It 
is an alloy of iron, copper, and zinc; but in what proportions is a se- 
cret not yet discovered by Europeans. " It is harder than zinc, though 
less so than iron, sonorous, compact, and has some malleability. The 
fresh fracture is brilliant, but soon tarnishes. Till superseded by 
spelter, from Silesia, it was exported in large quantities to Indiaj but 
on account of its high price, is now seldom or never shipped; spelter 
being, on the contrary, imported to compete with it in China." 

We must pass by many things which we might remark, but our 
stay was too limited to enable us to see all which is accessible to fo- 
reigners; and we are happy in having so valuable a work to refer all 
who may be interested to know more of Canton, as the Chinese Re- 
pository. 



51 



402 CHINESE POLICY. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 



SKETCHES IN CHINA. 

■5" 

June, 1836. 

One afternoon we set off to cross the river to visit the Budhist 
temples at Honan,but were unable to procure a boat, an edict having 
been issued the day before inhibiting foreigners from visiting it, and 
the boat-people from hiring their boats to them. So severe are the 
inflictions of Chinese law generally, that no ordinary bribe will in- 
duce their infraction by Chinese citizens. Nothing can be more ef- 
fectual than their mode of operation. Several instances might be 
adduced^ but the following extract in relation to Lord Napier, is suf- 
ficiently illustrative of the style of these decrees or proclamations, 
and its success proves how strictly it was observed. 

" From the period of this proclamation, mercantile people of this 
inner land are not permitted to buy or sell to the English nation, any 
goods or things whatever, large or small 5 and all manner of work- 
men, boatmen, &c., are also not allowed to receive hire or employ of 
the said barbarians, (foreigners?) Should there be any clandestinely 
having dealings or receiving hire, let the local officers immediately 
examine and seize them, to be punished according to the law against 
holding clandestine intercourse with foreign nations. In this the said 
barbarian eye Lord Napier, has cut himself off from the celestial 
empire. It is not all that we, the governor and lieutenant-governor, 
have liked to do. 

*' The barbarian merchants of all other nations are still permitted 
to trade as usual. They need have no suspicion or anxiety. Let all 
with trembling awe obey. Oppose not. A special proclamation. 

" Taoukwang, 14th year, 9th moon, 29th day." — (September 2nd, 
1834.) 

" When the Chinese soldiers appeared about the foreign factories, 
on the publication of this order, and all the native servants and por- 



TEA-GARDEN DWARFED TREES. 403 

fers were withdrawn from the British factory, Lord Napier requested 
a guard of marines from the ships of war at the Bogue, to come up 
to the-citj. All natives were forbidden, on pain of death, to sell any 
provisions to the British factory; and all foreigners to furnisli sup- 
plies, on the penalty of suffering like restrictions themselves. At 
the same time, the passage of foreign boats between Canton and 
Whampoa was forbidden; allowing the departure of foreigners, but 
the return of no one whatever."* 

Thus operated on, more by stern necessity than any apprehension 
of the exercise of physical force against him, Lord Napier took his 
departure, and the Chinese gained their point. 

Unable to hire a conveyance, one of our party applied to a Hong 
merchant for his boat, in which we hoped to evade the law; but he 
not only loaned the boat, but accompanied us himself. He would not 
consent, however, to visit Honan, but instead, carried us to see a tea 
garden, which to me, was quite as interesting. 

We soon entered a canal, along which the boat was poled. Houses 
cf bluish bricks, the color of which is owing to being baked without 
the contact of fire, or to some peculiarity of the clay, rose immediately 
from the water on each side. We passed numerous boats, and wher- 
ever there were children, they hailed us in tones of derision, crying 
as long as they could be heard " fan-qui,"— foreign devils. Along 
the canal were several public tea-houses, apparently neat within, 
where the Chinese resort to play, drink tea, and smoke opium. At 
one of the miserable bamboo huts on the canal bank, resemblinii a 
sty, more than the habitation of human beings, we saw a woman pre- 
paring a large rat for cooking. After passing nearly a half mile 
through contrasting scenes of opulence and misery, the boat stopped 
at a stair, and we entered a garden, adorned with summer houses, 
and several large fish ponds. The walks between the latter were 
paved, and a balustrade of porcelain ran along on either side. Nu- 
merous dwarfed trees, planted in pots, were growing along the walks. 
The practice of the art of dwarfing plants, appears to be confined to 
the Japanese and Chinese. 

''The general method of obtaining vegetable dwarfs is said to be 
the following: a quantity of clay, or mould, is applied to the upper part 
of a trunk of a tree, from which a dwarf is intended to be taken, and 
close to its division into branches. The mould is to be confined to 
the spot by coarse hempen, or cotton cloth, and to be carefully kept 

* Chinese Repository. 



404 SMALL FEET. 

moist by water. In consequence of this application, continued some- 
times above a twelvemonth, small tender fibres shoot down like roots 
from the wood into the mould. The part of the trunk emitting those 
new fibres, together with the branch arising immediately above it, is 
then to be carefully separated from the rest of the tree, and planted in 
new earth, in which the fibres become new roots, while the former 
branch is now the stem of the vegetable thus transformed in some 
measure. This operation does not destroy or alter the productive 
faculty which those parts enjoyed before their separation from the pa- 
rent root. That, which, while a branch of the original tree, bore 
flowers and fruit, continues to produce the same, though no longer 
supported upon any stuck. The terminal buds of such branches 
of trees as are meant to become dwarfs, are torn off; which circumstance 
prevented the farther elongation of those branches, and forces other buds 
and branches from the sides. These branches are bent by wires to what- 
ever form the operator wishes; and when the appearance of age and 
decay is meant to be given to a dwarf tree, it is repeatedly smeared 
with treacle or molasses, which attracts multitudes of ants, who, in 
pursuit of those sweet juices, attack the bark, and, by a gradual coro- 
sion of it, produce the desired effect. These different processes are 
sometimes attempted to be kept secret by the gardeners, and they vary 
designedly in the mode of carrying them on: but the principle upon 
which they are founded is sufficiently apparent from what is related 
here; and the contrivance argues ingenuity and perseverance, rather 
than the practice does true taste, which consists in assisting nature in 
its most favorite works; not in counteracting its operations or distort- 
ing its productions."*" 

In our walk through the garden we saw much to admire. We 
were led from it into an open field, and, following a path along a ditch, 
met a number of women tottering along, owing to the deformity of 
their feet, produced by bandaging. They were just returning from 
the packing and sorting houses, where they had been employed. 
About three hundred women are attached to each tea-establishment, 
and receive for their respective labor about six cents a day, without 
other emolument of any kind. Those we saw were miserably clad, 
and their feet were bound with bandages, and in little shoes. If the 
bandages be left off, the feet very soon spread; and by doing so they 
would become more useful and trustworthy members, but this would 
be at the cost of pride. 

• Siaunton's China,— vol. I. p. 212. Philad. 1799. 



TEA. 405 

We entered a building where tea is manufactured. The people 
were just departing fiom tJieir labors. On the second floor were 
apartments, wherein the leaves are sifted and sorted by hand, and 
then packed, after coming from an apartment below, where they un- 
dergo the process of manipulation, in cast iron pans, set diagonally in 
blocks of masonry about breast high. These blocks are arranged in 
rows, and each one has four pans with a furnace beneath them. The 
method of manufacturing tea has been already mentioned in a former 
part of this work. 

We noticed here, among other things, a winnowing machine, in all 
respects like those used in the United States; and were informed, 
that it is employed in separating the several sorts of tea. The im- 
perial, being the heaviest, falls first; next, the young hyson, then the 
gunpowder, and so on. 

Green teas are very little used by the Chinese, though the "cup 
that cheers but not inebriates," is universal throughout the whole of 
the celestial empire, and is brought forward on all occasions and at 
all times of the day. Public tea houses are found in every town, and 
in every village in China. On remarking to a Hong merchant that 
the Chinese only use black tea, and asking for what reason, he re- 
plied, in atone plainly showing in what estimation it is held, *' What! 
me drink that poison stufF.^" Ladies at home may take the hint. 

Tea was introduced into England, by the way of Holland, in 1666, 
by Lords Arlington and Ossori, and through the influence of their 
ladies, became fashionable in the society to which they belonged. 
At that period a pound weight of tea sold in London at nearly seventy 
pounds (Tournois,) though at Batavia it cost no more than three or 
four. But this exorbitant price, which fell very slowly, did not im- 
pede the way of this beverage into favor. It appears, however, that 
it did not come into general use before the beginning of the eighteenth 
century, about 1715, at which period the green tea was first employed 
in England. Before that time, Bohea only was used.* In the last 
hundred years the use of China tea has rapidly advanced throughout 
the world, to an extent which may be estimated from the following 
tabular statements. 

* Establecimientos UItramarinos~Tom. IT. 



406 



TEA-PLANT. 



Comparative View of the Exports of Tea from Canton to 
THE United States, since July 1st, 1830. 



UESCUIJPTION. 


1831. 


1832. 


1833. 


1834. 


1835. 


1836. 


Young" Hyson, - - - 


25,528 


40,065 


51,363 


86,115 


76,557 


76,045 


Hyson, - - - - 


7,147 


9,346 


14,248 


23,787 


16,509 


14,599 


Hyson Skin and Twankay, 


5,447 


20,883 


36,608 


34,368 


16,982 


23,372 


Gunpowder, - - - 


2,019 


4,603 


6,614 


10,154 


7,335 


7,786 


Imperial, . _ - 


1,934 


4,514 


5,939 


9,424 


7,736 


7,149 


Souchong, - - - 


16,955 


37,351 


34,815 


52,278 


35,245 


60,612 


Powchong-, 


559 


2,245 


4,723 


9,181 


5,733 


4,385 


Pecco, - - -" - 


200 


517 


2,563 


2,192 


1,030 


2,212 


Bohea, - - - - 


3,592 


12,182 


13,665 


1,445 


779 


871 


Total, - 


63,381 


131,706 


170,538 


228,944 


167,906 


197,031 


Green, - - - - 


42,075 


79,411 


114,772 


163,848 


125,119 


128,951 


Black, - - - - 


21,306 


52,295 


55,766 


65,096 


42,787 


68,080 



" The tea plant is a bushj, evergreen shrub, which, if permitted 
to attain its greatest natural size, will grow to the height of about 
twelve feet. In botany, it belongs, according to the artificial sys- 
tem, to the class and order of Monadelphia Polyandria; according to 
the natural order of Linnaeus, it belongs to the Columniferse; and, 
according to that of Jussieu, to the Aurantiacess. It constitutes, by 
itself, a distinct genus, of which there is but a single species; the 
plants yielding the different kinds of black and green tea, being, in 
reality, according to the Chinese, always, and now, according to the 
admission of European botanists, no more than permanent varieties, 
the result of long culture, as is the case with many other plants use- 
ful to man. The leaves are alternate, on short, thick, channeled 
foot stalks, of a longish elliptic form, Mnth a blunt, notched point, 
and serrated, except at the base. To a careful observer, these cha- 
racters will always serve to distinguish the tea leaf from that of all 
other plants, except one of the Camellias, the Sesanqua; for the Ca- 
mellias are of the same natural family, and, indeed, in China, are 
not unfrequently used as tea. 

*' The tea is, probably, an indigenous plant of China. This may 
be concluded, not only from its long culture in that country, but 
from its being found there in a wild state, and from the Chinese 
names for it having been borrowed by almost all foreign nations. 
These names are Cha and Tlie. The first of these is the general 
term throughout China; and the last belongs to the dialect of Fokien. 
Most of the Asiatic nations have adopted the former, having received 
their knowledge of the plant from inland communication; and most 



TEA-PLANT. 407 

of the European nations, their acquaintance with it having been de- 
rived directly from Fokien bj maritime communication, the latter. 
The exceptions among Asiatics are the Malayan nations, and among 
Europeans, the Portuguese. The plant has been cultivated in China 
from time immemorial, and its use is as much buried in fable as that 
of wheat or barley, or the vine, in European or western Asia. As a 
branch of husbandry, in Ciiina, it is at least as important as the cul- 
ture of the vine in the southern countries of Europe. The latitudes 
in which it thrives best are from 23° to 30° north, or from the sea on 
the south to the great river Yangtse Kiang on the north. The north- 
ern limits of its culture, however, extend much beyond that river; 
and there are, in fact, few provinces or districts of southern and cen- 
tral China, in which the tea plant is not extensively cultivated, at 
least for domestic use. The tea, like the vine, is cultivated on the 
sides of hills, in preference to the plains. It is raised from the seed, 
and yields its first crop in from two to three years. Where tiie best 
teas are raised, the plant is carefully pruned, and prevented from 
attaining a height exceeding two or three feet. The production of 
good tea depends upon soil and locality, fully as much as that of good 
wine; like it, too, the produce varies according to the care with which 
the crop is collected and prepared for use. The quality of the crop 
varies, also, with the nature of each season, like the vintage. From 
the same plant are commonly taken, in each season, four crops; a 
circumstance which is another cause of variety in tea, as it appears 
in the market. The vounser the leaves when taken, the higher fla- 
vored the tea, and the scarcer, and, consequently, the dearer the ar- • 
tide. The earliest crop is taken in the beginning of spring, just 
when the leaf-buds are opening; and the last crop in August, when 
the leaves are coarse, abundant, and deficient in aroma and astrin- 
gency. 

" The green and black teas present a parallel case to the white 
and red grape, which yield wine of their respective colors. In both 
cases they are only varieties of the same species. The growth of 
teas of sufficiently high flavor to keep for a considerable time, and fit, 
in consequence, for exportation to foreign countries, was, for a long 
time, confined to two provinces, or rather to a few districts of those 
provinces; for, in China, provinces, in so far as extent and popula- 
tion are concerned, are extensive kingdoms. These provinces were 
Fokien, which yielded black tea, and Kiangnan, which yielded green; 
the southern boundary of the first being in about the 24th degree of 
latitude, and that of the last in about the SOth. Of late years, and 



408 TEA-PLANT. 

in consequence of the great demand for teas in Europe and America, 
the culture of the plant for exportation has been extended to three 
additional provinces, namely, Canton, Kiansi, and Chekiang, all lying 
between the 23d and 30th degrees of latitude. The provinces which 
produce good tea for exportation may, in fact, be described as the 
Bordeaux, the Burgundy, and the Midi of China. By far the best 
teas are still brought from the two original provinces; and the worst 
from the district of Woping, in Canton. 

" In China, contrary to the universal usage of the other great des- 
potisms of Asia, the soil is private property; and, in consequence of 
the nature of the law of inheritance, and of the tyranny which hin- 
ders the accumulation of property, the land is very minutely subdi- 
vided, and the proprietors are little better than peasants or cotters, 
each, with the assistance of his family, cultivating his own farm. 
This, of course, applies, equally to the tea districts as to the other 
parts of the empire; and the tea is, consequently, cultivated only in 
small patches, or gardens, not exceeding, in extent, the holding of an 
ordinary market gardener among ourselves. The leaves are picked 
by the cultivator's family, and conveyed at once to the market, where 
they are purchased by a particular class of dealers, who dry them 
under a shed, and, in this imperfect state of preparation, dispose of 
them to a second and higher class of traders, who sort the teas ac- 
cording to their qualities, and, after completing the process of manu- 
facture, pack them in chests, dividing them into lots of from 100 to 
600 chests, which are known in the Canton market under the name 
of Chops, from their bearing the signet, or mark (in Chinese, chap,) 
of the merchant who makes them up. 

*' The tea arrives in Canton about the middle of October, and the 
busiest period of the trade extends from that time to the end of De- 
cember. The commodity is conveyed, for the most part, by land 
carriage and by porters, and, generally speaking, from 400 to 700 
miles; and the owners accompany it. The traders in green tea 
amount, in number, to not less than 400. The dealers in black tea 
are less numerous, but more wealthy. Both are in the habit of re- 
ceiving advances, to some extent, from the Hong, or security mer- 
chants of Canton. 

"In the market of Canton, the sorts of tea quoted for exportation do 
not, generally, exceed fourteen or fifteen in number; about eight of 
which are black and six green. They are as follows, with their re- 
spective ordinary prices. 





lEA-ri.ANT. 






Grekw. 




Twankay, 
Hyson Skin, 


- 


Taels per PecuL 
24 to 28. 
24 to 28. 


Young Hyson, - 
Hyson, 
Imperial, - 
Gunpowder, 


Black. 


44 to 54, 
44 to 54. 
50 to 60. 
59 to 62. 


Bohea, 




Taels per Pecul 
12 to 15. 


Congo, 
Campoi, - 
Souchong, 
Ankoi, 


- 


24 to 28. 
24 to 28. 
20 to 36. 
20 to 24. 


Caper, 

Orange Peko, - 


- 


24 to 25. 

25 to 26. 


Flowery I'eko, - 


- ■ - 


50 to 60. 



409 



*' In round numbers, one tael per pecul majbe considered as equi- 
valent to one half penny per pound, in estimating these prime costs. 
The terms under which the different sorts of tea are here described, 
are for the most part European corruptions, and some misapplications 
of Chinese wordsj but as they are of long established use, and per- 
fectly well understood both by the European and Chinese merchant, 
they describe the commodities intended with sufficient accuracy for 
all practical purposes. The European nations, however, do not among 
themselves uniformly agree in the use of these terms; thus, what th-e 
English and Americans call Hyson Skin, is called by the Dutch and 
Germans simply Schin; and what the first two call Young Hyson, is 
called by the last Uxim. AVhat the English call Imperial, is called 
by the Dutch, Germans, and French, Pearl tea, and by the Ameri- 
ricans occasionally, Gomee. The Russians, moreover, import, by 
their caravans, some teas altogether unknown by name or kind to 
the other nations of Europe except through them. 

" The highest quality of black tea is Peko, or more correctly, Flow- 
ery Peco. This consists of the early spring buds of the finest black 
tea plants, intermixed, as is commonly believed, with the flowers of 
the fragrant olive, which is discoverable in the form of small white par- 
ticles. This, as will be seen by reference to the price current, runs 
up to the price of 60 taels per pecul, equal to 2s. 6d. per lb. The 
very same plant, in its second and more abundant crop^ may yield 
52 



410 lEA-PLANT. 

Souchong, at 36 taels per pecul, or Is. 6d. per lb. Its third crop 
may consist of Congo, Campoi, or low Souchong, bearing no higher 
price than lOd. per lb.; and its fourth and last crop may consist of 
Fokien Bohea, worth no more than 15 taels per pecul, or Z^d. per 
lb. The coarsest Boheas in the market, which are rated above at 1^ 
taels per pecul, or 6d. per lb., are, however, frequently found as low 
as 5d. per lb.; and some very coarse teas, used by the Chinese them- 
selves, are cheaper than sloe leaves could be brought to market in 
this country. The lowest Boheas of the Canton market consist of 
the refuse or sweepings of superior black teas, or of the inferior tea 
of Woping, in Canton. It may be remarked, by the way, respecting 
this word Bohea, which is now applied by Europeans to the lowest 
denomination of black tea, that it was, and still is, applied by the 
Chinese to the finest description of it, that which grows on the moun- 
tain Vu-i-shan, in the province of Fokien, as noted for its produc- 
tion of fine teas as the estate of Clos-Vougeot for its Burgundy, or 
that of the Chateau -Margot for its claret. 

" Similar observations apply to the green teas; although the range 
of qualities and prices here is not so great as in the black. The dif- 
ference between the highest and the lowest quality of green tea, is 
not so much as in the proportion of two to one; while that between 
the highest and lowest of the black, is as much as four to one. The 
highest quality of green tea, is Gunpowder. This consists of the first 
leaves of the vernal crop of the green tea plant. As it comes to us, 
it is not mixed with the flowers of any foreign plant, as Peko is; but 
such is the case with some of the finest green teas imported by the 
Russians, called Chulan, Imperial, and Hyson, and Young Hyson, 
compose the second and third crops. The light and inferior leaves 
separated from Hyson by a winnowing machine, constitute Hyson 
Skin. The fourth and last crop constitutes Twankay, Singlo, &c. 
With respect to the last word, the same observation applies to it, as 
to Bohea. Singlo, or more correctly Songlo, takes its title from a 
mountain of that name in the province of Kiangnan, where the finest 
green tea has been long produced. 

*' China, although the only country in which tea, fit to become an 
article of commerce with foreign nations, is produced, is very far 
from being the only one which yields it. It is extensively cultivated 
for domestic use throughout the Japan islands, Corea, Tonquin, and 
Cochin-China; that is, from about the latitude of 13° North, up to 
40°. By far the best of these teas is that of Japan, which, however, 
is not manufactured in such a way as to enable it to be kept for an/ 



TEA-PLA^NT. 411 

length of time. The Dutch occasionally bring small quantities of it 
to Batavia. The tea of Tonquin and Cochin-China consists of a large 
coarse leaf, which undergoes no other preparation than that of being 
dried under a shed. It possesses, contrary to what might be expected, 
so little aroma or astringency that it is necessary to boil, instead of 
infuse it, as is done with the Chinese tea. In the mountainous parts 
of some of the northern portions of the Burman territory, where the 
plant, judging by its native name, appears to be indigenous, tea is 
cultivated for a use to which no other nation puts it. The leaf is pre- 
served in oil and eaten as a dainty, pretty much after the manner in 
which European nations use olives. 

"The tea plant will thrive under the equator^ that is, it will grow 
vigorously, and produce flowers and fruit. It is found again blow- 
ing in the 40th degree of latitude, and it is a sufficiently hardy plant 
in the green-houses of Europe up to the 50th degree of latitude. It 
might have been expected from this, that like the coffee of Arabia, it 
should long ago have been propagated in many regions of the new 
world, as well as in the settlements of the European nations in Asia. 
This, however, is very hr from being the casej and after two centu- 
ries' acquaintance with the plant, the production of it for foreign con- 
sumption, is still confined to a few districts of its original country, 
China. The fact seems to be, that, like growing the vine for good 
wine, the growing of the tea plant for the production of good tea, is 
a matter of considerable uncertainty and difficulty. Except a few 
provinces of France, Germany, and the Peninsula, there are no coun- 
tries which produce wines good enough, generally speaking, for a fo- 
reign market. A peculiar soil and climate seem, in the first instance, 
indispensable to the successful culture of the tea plant. These may, 
no doubt, be found without difficulty^ but there are other indispensa- 
ble requisites not so easily attainable— a skilful culture of the plant, 
and a skilful preparation of the leaf^ and above all, a low rate of la- 
bor, to meet the numerous manipulations which the plant requires, 
especially in the gathering and manufacture. It is not likely that 
the culture will succeed, on this last account, in any of our colonial 
establishments, where, it may be observed, that neither the rearing 
of silk worms nor the culture of the vine, both of which imply the 
necessity of cheap labor, have yet been prosecuted with any decided 
success. The culture of the tea plant has been tried in Brazil for 
the last twenty years, but apparently without any profitable result. 
It has been tried also on a larger scale in the island of Java, within 
the last seven years; but there too, according to all accounts, with- 



412 TEA-PLANT. 

out much success, although carried on with the advantage of Chinese 
from Fokien to superintend and conduct it. It is scarcely reasona- 
ble, indeed, to expect that a plant which thrives best between the 24th 
and SOth degree of latitude, and in a country of primitive formation, 
should succeed in a country between the 6th and 7th degrees of lati- 
tude, and of volcanic formation. It is true that the experiment is 
made in the mountainous part of the country, at an elevation of be- 
tween two and three thousand feet above the level of the sea, and 
where the heat is consequently not very great. This, however, is 
not sufficient. In such a country, there is neither a summer nor a 
winter like those of China. There may be the same average heat 
throughout the year; but a delicate and capricious plant, like tea, in 
so far at least as the quality of its produce is concerned, may require 
a very difierent distribution of it, from what the climate of Java can 
by possibility supply. 

"The experiment is about to be tried under more favorable circum- 
stances in Hindoostan; a country which affords many situations in 
which the soils and climates approach nearly to those of the tea pro- 
vinces in China, and where the price of labor is as low as in China 
itself. The inhabitants, indeed, want the skill and enterprise of the 
Chinese, but these may be furnished by European direction. The 
governor-general has, in fact, deputed a gentleman of great spirit and 
intelligence to China, in order to bring to India tea plants and na- 
tives of the country accustomed to their culture, and considerable 
luopes may be entertained of the ultimate success of the project. 
There are countries nearer home, in which the culture of the tea 
plant might be carried on to advantage; such as some of the warmer 
parts of Spain, Portugal, and Greece. The habits of the tea plant 
appear to bear some analogy to those of the myrtle; and the experi- 
ment might be tried in those situations which the myrtle in its natu- 
ral state is found to affect. 

^' With regard to the consumption of tea in different countries, a 
few observations will here be made. The whole of the nations of 
Asia, east of Siam and Cambodia, are what may be termed habitual 
and immemorial consumers of tea. It is to them what beer is, or 
more correctly was, to the northern, and what winii is to the southern 
nations of Europe. First, then, with respect to the Chinese them- 
selves, the tea-pot is in constant requisition, from morning till night, 
with persons of both sexes, and all ages, and of all conditions. The 
higher classes only use the good teas; and it is perfectly well known 
th^t what is used by the lower is qfteri of a very execrable quality. 



TEA-PLANT. 413 

and sometimes is not tea at all, but some coarse and rude substitute. 
The Chinese use it always without milk, and sometimes without su- 
gar. The Chinese people, in round numbers, and by the most au- 
thentic and recent census, are 370 millions in number; and if they 
consume only in the same proportion as the inhabitants of the United 
Kingdom, or at the rate of 40,000,000 lbs. per annum, for a popula- 
tion of 25 millions, which, under a system of free trade, would pro- 
bably be the lowest consumption, their annual consumption will 
amount to more than 246,000 tons^ but, if they consume, and that is 
more probable, twice as much as the average consumption of this 
country, then the whole will approach to near half a million tons a 
year. Let the value of the smallest of these amounts be taken as 
equal on an average only to the price of the lowest black tea in the 
Canton market, or /id. per lb., and it will be found to amount to the 
sum of eighteen millions and a half sterling. This is, no doubt, a 
great quantity, and a great value; but still it will not appear extra- 
vagant, when it is considered that the same people consume a foreign 
drug and luxury, opium, to the annual value of a63,000,000. sterling. 

" The next greatest consumers of tea are the Japanese, who use it 
to nearly the same extent as the Chinese, and whose number has been 
computed at 60 millions of people. The Coreans, the Tonquinese, 
and Cochin-Chinese are also considerable consumers of tea. The 
Japanese receive some of their finest teas from China; and the other 
two nations, all that is good of theirs. Throughout Mongolia and 
Siberia, among all classes of the people, tea is nearly as much an ar- 
ticle of necessity as in China itself. The tea made use of by these, 
commonly called brick tea, is extremely coarse, and made up into 
hard cakes in the form of a parallelopipedon, about eighteen inches 
long, ten broad, and near an inch thick. This is boiled in milk, 
thickened with rye meal, and seasoned with salt. In short, the Tar- 
tars make a meal of what the Chinese sip as a beverage. The whole 
of this tea is brought from China, and although coarse, it consists of 
the genuine plant. 

*' The Chinese colonists in the eastern Archipelago, in Tonquin, 
Cochin-China, Cambodia, Siam, and the country of the Burmese, use 
tea as excessively as the inhabitants of the mother country, and from 
them its use has been borrowed by the native inhabitants of these 
countries respectively, among whom, however, it is confined to the 
vv^ealthy. Tea, is therefore, a considerable article of export to all 
the countries in question; and it is conveyed to them all by the 
junks, except to the Burmese dominions. These receive the com- 



414 TEA-PLANT. 

modity over land from the province of Yunan, packed in parcels of a 
globular form, about the size of an eighteen pound shot. This, as 
may be seen by the works of the Jesuits, is the shape in which the 
coarse tea of Yunan has always appeared. The natives of Hindoo- 
stan, Persia, Arabia, and Turkey, are not unacquainted with the use 
of tea; but have recourse to it, for the most part, only for its sup- 
posed medicinal virtues. The Turks or Turcomans of Trans-Oxi- 
ana and the neighboring countries, however, use it far more exten- 
sively, and, indeed, with the exception of the Chinese and their im- 
mediate neighbors, seem to be among the greatest consumers of tea. 
It is remarkable that the tea used by these people is all green, and a 
great deal of it of a very fine quality. As may be seen in the nar- 
rative of Lieutenant Burnes, the article is brought to Trans-Oxiana 
by the routes of Yarkand and Badakhshan. To these places it is 
conveyed by Chinese caravans, and there purchased by the Moslem 
merchants, who convey it to Bokharia. It is made use of always 
without milk, and generally without sugar. 

*' After the Chinese and Japanese, the greatest consumers of tea 
are the English, and these are followed by their descendants in 
America, by the Dutch, and the Russians. These are the only na- 
tions of the European stock that are considerable consumers, the use 
of coffee or chocolate predominating among the rest. The following 
is an approximation to the quantities of tea consumed by the respec- 
tive countries of Europe and America, with the settlements and colo- 
nies of the former: — 

lbs. 

Great Britain, ..... 40,000,000 

Russia, ...... 6,500,000 

Holland, 3,000,000 

Germany, .--... 2,000,000 

France, 250,000 

United States, .... - 10,000,000 

British America and West Indies, - - 1,500,000 

British settlements in India, - - - 1,000,000 

British Australian Colonies, ... 250,000 



64,500,000 



*' Besides the quantities here enumerated, there are exports to the 
Cape of Good Hope, to the Spanish and Portuguese settlements in 
India, and to South America, together with some to Denmark and 
Sweden; so that, upon the whole, the total consumption of the Eu- 



TEA-i'LANT. 415 

ropean and American nations, will probably not be overrated at 
65,000,000 lbs. The value of this, in China, will not be less than 
^4,000,000 sterling. 

" Will China be able to supply any great quantity of tea, on the 
increased demand \vhicl\ the European and American nations are 
certain in no long period of time to make? There is no doubt but it 
will. The consumption of tea among the European nations, com- 
menced about one hundred and eighty -five years ago; and in this time 
it has risen from a nameless fraction, to near 30,000 tons a year. 
Our descendants in America, who hardly existed when the tea plant 
first became known to Europe, now consume upwards of 5,000 tons 
of it. In the commencement of the eighteenth century, the con- 
sumption of tea in England did not exceed 100,000 lbs. weight. In. 
the commencement of the nineteenth century, it was 20,000,000 lbs.5 
and these 20,000,000 lbs, will probably be doubled in the first year of 
the system of free trade. In all this time there appears to have been 
very little variation in the price of tea in China, beyond the effect of 
variety in the seasons. This assertion is of easy proof, and the 
proof, as a matter of satisfaction and curiosity, may be given. The 
following statement contains, in two columns, the prices of tea in 
China in 1747 and 1827. The first of these is taken from a work^, 
published in London, in 1762, called '• A Voyage to the East Indies;'' 
and the second from the printed Canton price current of the 14tlTi 
December, 1827. 

Taels per Pecul. 
Teas. 



1747. 


. 1827. 


From 


To 


From To 


13 


15 


14 


15 


25 


30 


24 


28 


35 


7S 


26 


27 


45 


60 


48 


58 



Bohea, - - - - 

Congou, 

Souchong-, - - - 

Hyson, 45 

" In 1747, the quantity of tea consumed in the United Kingdom<, 
was short of 2,400,000 lbs, weight, and in 1827, very nearly 30,000- 
000 lbs.;* yet this immense increase had in eighty years' time produced 
no sensible effect on the price in China. The only remarkable discre- 
pancy regards the tea called Souchong; and this is very easily ac- 
counted for. The finer description of this class of tea has, in fact, of 
late years, according to the official statements made by the East 

* First Report of the Commissioners of Excise Inquiry, IBSS, p. 70 and 7%. 



4 16 TEA -PLANT. 

India Company and their officers in China, disappeared altogether 
from the market. " We are unable," say the supercargoes in a let- 
ter to the directors, *' to account for the entire disappearance of 
Souchong."* 

" Even the extraordinary demand which the opening of the trade 
in this country has given rise to, has enhanced the price of tea in the 
market of China, by no more than six or seven per cent.; and this 
amount has only been produced by the exclusion from England of 
the supply which the overstocked markets of Europe and America 
could easily have furnished. The capacity of China to furnish a 
great supply of tea, is very strikingly illustrated by the facility with 
which it has furnished that of green tea, an article not used by the 
Chinese themselves at all, except rarely for medicinal purposes; 
which no foreign Asiatic nation, but one, consumes at all; and, 
which, in fact, may be said to be grown for the exclusive use of the 
nations of the European stock. Green tea did not come into use 
among European nations until many years after black had been in 
pretty general use; and yet, at present, the quantity of this commo- 
dity exported from China is not short of 15,000,000 lbs. weight, and at 
its average value is greater than that of black tea; this cannot be esti- 
mated at less than a million and a quarter sterling. The enhanced 
price of teas in China, produced by the opening of the English trade, it 
may safely be predicted, wdll be of very short duration. Less tea 
will be sent to the continent of Europe and to America, until the 
stocks there are diminished, and, in the mean time, the Chinese will 
be stimulated to plant more tea; and the new plantations will yield 
their first crop, as already stated, in so short a period as from two to 
three years. The culture, it has been before stated, has already been 
extended from two to five provinces; and, if requisite, may be ex- 
tended to many new ones. The land in which tea is cultivated, 
consists of hills or mountains of no remarkable fertility, and not 
suited for the production of corn. Of these, notwithstanding the 
highly cultivated state of the plains and valleys of China, there is 
much unoccupied, and, in fact, in a state of nature. Indeed, it should 
be remarked, that of the five provinces in which the culture of tea is 
at present carried on, four are the most populous of the whole em- 
pire; while that in which the greatest part of it is conducted, Fokien, 
receives much of its supply of food from abroad. The fear, then, of 
China's being unable to furnish an increased supply of tea, is only 

* First Report of tlie Select Committee of the House of Commons, 1830. Ap- 
pendix, p. 71. 



TEA -PLANT, 417 

an idle chimera, originating in the ignorance of fraudulent represen- 
tations of monopolists. But for argument's sake, let us suppose that 
there was some physical obstacle to the production of tea being at all 
increased, as there may possibly be to the production of Tokay; and 
tit the worst we should have the old quantity of tea, at a price low- 
ered by the difference of all that is now got by the monopoly. 

•' The effects of tea upon the human frame, are those of a very 
gentle stimulant, producing an exhilaration of spirits. It is to this 
alone that it owes its general adoption. Witli the exception of collee, 
and even this is not so generally congenial, it is the only stimulant 
which, taken in considerable quantity, is in no respect deleterious. 
The diversity in the flavor of the different varieties is probably fully 
as great as in tlie different varieties of wine. The flavor, and the 
stimulant quality also, are most distinct in the green variety of the 
plant, and it is this, consequently, which is most apt to disagree with 
some constitutions. Even to the use of this, however, custom soon 
reconciles the human frame. In the relative quantities of the two 
-kinds consumed by different nations, accident, caprice, or fashion, 
appear to have a very large share. The Chinese themselves, and 
the oriental nations generally, hardly consume any thing but black 
tea. The English consume in the proportion of but one part of 
green to four of black. The Americans, on the contrary, consume 
two parts of green to one of black. The English in Bengal, and in 
the Australian settlements, scarcely consume anything but green. 
The English at Bombay and Madras, hardly use anything but black 
tea. The English merchants and other residents settled at Canton, 
follow the example of the Chinese, using black tea alone. In Hol- 
land, the proportion of black tea used, is much greater than of 
green; and in Russia, nearly the whole consumption consists of 
black."* 

In the evening we were visited by our Chinese friend, who carried 
us to the Garden, and were informed that he was a physiognomist. 
At our request, he declared, after a close scrutiny of the counte- 
nance, what he thought to be the character of several persons pre- 
sent. He gazed at the individual under examination for some time, 
and then began, " Me think you good man," and, after a second 
look, continued, " but you be more better in ten year more," A se- 
cond individual, he declared, would be "more bet-er" in twenty 
years, and a third one, who was *one of your fat men who sleep o' 

* Boston Evening Gazette. 

53 



418 PHRENOLOGY. 

nights,' he pronounced to be a very good man, saying, "Me think 
you very contenty inside — in fifty year more you be more better." 

These examinations afforded us much amusement; but the physi- 
ognomist was much struck when I explained to him ihe general prin- 
ciples of phrenology, and illustrated them by an examination of his 
head, expressing my opinion of him from its result. He frankly ad- 
mitted all I said to be true, but seerr.ed very much puzzled to com- 
prehend how I could speak so minutely of his character. 

He departed, perfectly delighted Nvith phrenology, and gav« us an 
invitation to visit hitn the next day. 

According to the appointment, he received us at his residence at 
twelve o'clock. We first entered an open court, which led to the 
inner apartments, or offices, on the ground floor, through one of which 
we were conducted up stairs, into a room plainly furnished witii 
bamboo sofas, chairs and mahogany tables. Large sheets, filled with 
the sayings of Chinese sages, hung upon the walls, in lieu of pictures, 
a fashion which is common throughout the empire. 

Our host was a man of about thirty-five, of pleasant- and gentle- 
manly manners, and possessed the reputation of being a literary man. 
After some common-place observations, we were offered Havana ci- 
gars; and, in a few minutes afterwards, a table, loaded with a variety 
of delicious sweetmeats, was placed in the centre of the room. Tea, 
of delightful flavor, followed, served in fine porcelain cups, without 
milk or sugar, and in the bottom of each were several expanded tea 
leaves. Instead of a saucer, the cup w^as sustained in a silver tray, 
so fashioned as to embrace the cup very much as the calyx embraces 
the corolla of a flower; one leaf, or petal of the calyx being turned 
down, answered as a handle to support the whole. 

Remarking upon the excellence of this tea, our host told me that 
it was not the best tea procurable in China; that the choicest teas 
were all consumed at home; some of which sold, in the great cities 
of Pekin and Nankin, at thirty dollars a catty, equal to one pound 
and a third: that only the commonest sorts reach the Canton market; 
that the connoisseurs in tea possessed an exquisite nicety of taste; 
from his account, equal to that of the gentleman who detected, in the 
flavor of wine, the taste of iron and leather, derived from a key, with 
a leathern tally, which had accidentally dropped into the tun. 

After this entertainment, cigars were again served, and our host, 
and several Ciiinese merchants who were of the party, recurred to 
the subject of phrenology. From the accounts which our host had 
given them of the subject, these gentlemen were curious to witness. 



PHRENOLOGY. 41^ 

for themselves, what they had heard of at second hand, and our host 
was anxious, perhaps for the sake of his veracity, that they should be 
convinced his relations were true. The subject was again explained 
to them, and, after examination, an opinion of the leading points of 
individual character was expressed. Those who knew the indivi- 
dual under question decided, that the opinion was correct, and he 
himself, acknowledged it to be true. In the same way, several were 
extunined with a like result. The interest in the subject increased, 
and all present became, suddenly, converts to the doctrine^ and at 
once placed such implicit faith in phrenology, that they sent for 
their clerks, here termed pursers, and requested me to express my 
opinion of their respective characters, without reserve. One wished 
to know whether a young man, who had just submitted his head to 
examination, might be safely trusted, if sent into Uic country to col- 
lect money. Another asked, in relation to his clerk, " Can me trust 
that man go Nankin for pigeon — buy silk — ^suppose he no stop talk 
with gal, and no make he pigeon?" Another inquired if I could de- 
termine, positively, by examining a married lady's head, whether her 
issue would be *' one gal or one bull child." Being very anxious 
for the latter, and having offered v.p many prayers to the goddess 
Kuan-yin for a son, he was much disappointed to learn that the prac- 
tical application of phrenology did not extend quite so far. 

Our visit lasted more than two hours, and 1 received many thanks, 
and many apologies were offered for troubling me with so many ex- 
aminations. 

After this, I was daily visited by numbers of Chinese gentlemen, 
always for the object of a phrenological examination. Before leaving 
Canton several small presents of choice teas were sent us as a com- 
plimentary acknowledgment^ but none, I suspect, worth thirty dol- 
lars a catty. 

On the day of our departure from "this inner land," our baggage 
and purchases were collected at the entrance of the Hong, and the 
custom-house mandarins were sent for to examine it. The shop- 
keepers usually pay the export duties, and give a draft on themselves, 
called a chop, for the amount: this chop is given to the mandarin, who 
afterwards collects it. The mandarins were content to see the trunks 
open, without any scrutiny of their contents, saying that we were, 
also, mandarins, meaning to express thereby that they were sensible 
to a courtesy of fellow feeling. When they had departed, with their 
hands full of " chops," we embarked every thing on board of a packet- 
boat for Macao. 



420 CHINA 



CHAPTER XL. 



SKETCHES IN CHINA.. 

June, 1836. 

Like the people of every nation, the Chinese have their eulogists, 
and their detractors, and few nations are more variously estimated 
at a distance, than that of China. 

The history of nations which have attained to refined civilization, 
is properly the history of man. States and nations spring from each 
other as in the case of individuals; with the difference, that in fami- 
lies, the place of those removed by death, nature supplies by the birth 
of others in constant and regular succession. But in states, society 
disturbs and breaks through this law by some fortuitous commotion; 
and in this manner, ancient monarchies have overturned republics in 
their infancy; an erratic and savage people, by their eruptions of vio- 
lence, have dismembered, broken and iiJially swallowed up, in their 
course, multitudes of nations. China has as yet resisted this fata- 
lity. Her empire, whose boundaries on the north, are Russian Tar- 
tary, on the south, the Indian islands; Thibet on the west, and the 
ocean on the east, occupies nearly the whole of the eastern extremity 
of the Asiatic continent. To frequent wars, to their position, and 
other causes, may be attributed the comparative short life and small 
extent of European nations, which have destroyed and succeeded 
each other in turn; but the Chinese, shut up and protected on all 
sides, either by oceans or deserts, have succeeded in establishing a 
permanent state, which claims the astonishing antiquity of four thou- 
sand years. They never speak of their conquests, but of the wars 
they have endured; more happy in civilizing their conquerors than 
in destroying their enemies. 

In a region so long civilized, deep and ancient traces of industry 



AND THE CHINESE. 421 

should be perceptible; and we accordingly find, the plains have beem 
levelled, preserving only an inclination sufficient for irrigation, which 
is justly considered a grand resource and means of agriculture. Few 
trees are met with, because they would absorb the juices of the soil 
at the expense of the nutritious grains. Nor do we see here, parks 
or extensive woods, destined to be the nursery and shelter of wild 
beasts, for the sport of princes and patricians, to the detriment of 
husbandmen. 

In China, the only requisites of a pleasant country retreat, are a con- 
venient location, an agreeably varied cultivation, a few trees, irregu- 
larly planted in imitation of nature, and a few mounds of porous stone, 
which, at a moderate distance, may be mistaken for rocks or moun- 
tains. The slopes are terraced; and to detain the rain and spring wa- 
ters, there are reservoirs, formed with great skill : even the canals and 
rivers, passing the bases of hills, are made to irrigate their summits 
and declivities, by the application of means, which simplifying and 
multiplying machinery, diminishes the labor of men, enabling two to 
accomplish what a thousand might otherwise hesitate to undertake. 
These heights ordinarily yield three crops a year. A sort of plant 
yielding oil, is followed by the harvest of cotton, which is succeeded 
by that of potatoes: though not universal, this routine is almost in- 
variable. 

In most of the mountains, unsuited to tillage, we find forest trees, 
convertible to the purposes of civic and naval architecture. In many 
are found mines of iron, while copper, supposed to be a natural alloy of 
iron and zinc, copper, and tin, which are wrought with considerable ac- 
tivity; silver mines also exist; gold mines have been abandoned, either 
because enough of that precious metal for commercial purposes was 
gathered in the mountain torrents, or because they were not suffi.- 
ciently productive to pay the expense of working them. 

The sea once rolled over the sands, where now stand Nankin and 
Che-kiang, the largest provinces of the empire. The Chinese re- 
pulsed, restrained and lorded it over the ocean, as the Egyptians do- 
mineered the Nile; they have joined to the continent lands, which 
were separated by the waters: the reaction of their industry has been 
successfully opposed to the action of the elements, producing results 
which might appear supernatural, were they not continuous and sen- 
sible. In an equal degree, they have forced the capabilities of the 
waters and the fertility of the soil. In the midst of rivers, which in- 
tercommunicate by canals, and traverse most of their cities, are seen 
floating towns, formed by an affluence or assemblage of boats, full of 



422 . ■ CHINA 

people, who, devoted to fishing, are born, live and die upon the wa.-- 
ters. The coasts are swarmed with thousands of vessels, their masts 
appearing like moving forests. Anson wondered that fishermen, thus 
established, were not diverted for a moment from their labors, to ad- 
mire his ship, the largest, perhaps, that had, at that time, ever touched 
in those places. This indifference only proves, they deemed their 
occupation of fishing too important to be neglected for the gratifica- 
tion of unprofitable curiosity. 

The mode of cultivating the earth is not the same throughout the 
empire; but varies with the quality of soil and diversity of climate. 
In the lower and southern provinces, the land requires a rice conti- 
nually submerged, which is coarse and affords two crops a year. In 
the dry and elevated sections of the interior, the rice, which is of 
less volume, taste and substance, yields but one harvest. In the 
north, all the grains of Europe grow, and of very good quality. From 
one extremity to the other, the empire abounds in vegetables, more 
particularly in the south, where they form, with fish, the chief arti- 
cles of diet, but in other provinces the use of meat is common. 

The practice of improving lands by manuring is universal; indeed, 
this great system by which nature is made to rise up out of her own 
ruins, is better understood, and followed at a greater expenditure of 
time and labor, in collecting the materials for compost, which the 
Chinese draw from every source, than in any other country in the 
world. 

The great origin and support of rural economy in China are found 
in the industrious disposition of the people. They are probably the 
most laborious people on earth, and their physical constitution seems 
to require less repose. They labor every day in the year except the 
first, appropriated for reciprocal visiting among families, and the 
last, consecrated to the memory of their ancestors; the first is an obli- 
gation imposed by society, the last by domestic worship or religion. 
They look upon religion, as the bond which unites and civilizes man^ 
and their religion consists in nothing but the practice of the social 
virtues. Some view them as a wise and rational people who act 
correctly without requiring the curb of law: their private worship is 
the love of their fathers living or dead; their public worship is the 
love of labor, and the labor most religiously honored is that of agri- 
culture. 

Agriculture is held in such high esteem in China, that those empe- 
rors are most revered, who, preferring the good of the state to that 
of their own house, excluded their own sons from succession, to place 



AND THE CHINESE. 423 

;Jiipon the throne men taken from the plough. The memory of those 
illustrious agriculturists is reverenced, who sowed the seed of the per- 
manence and felicity of the empire, by securing the fertility of the 
soil, the inexhaustible source of harvests, and of the multiplication 
of men. All the emperors of China are husbandmen by the law of 
the land. One of his public duties is to open the soil in the spring, 
with a pomp and circumstance which attracts all the farmers in the 
neighbourhood of the capital. Great is the concourse to witness the 
honors which the Prince accords to the queen of arts. He is not, as 
in the fables of the Greeks, a god who tends the flocks of the king; 
he is the father of his people, who, taking the plough in his own hands, 
points out to his children the true treasures of the state. Soon he 
returns to sow the field he has worked; and the example of the 
sovereign is followed in all the provinces, and at the same period, the 
viceroys or governors, repefct similar ceremonies in the presence of 
assembled multitudes. Europeans vi^ho have been present at tiiese 
ceremonies speak of them in terms of admiration. But we must not 
suppose from this, that the court of Pekin is seriously devoted to 
the labors of the field: the arts of luxury are too far advanced, for 
these demonstrations to be more than mere ceremonies. This homage 
of the sovereign to public opinion, contributes towards its perpetua- 
tion; and the influence of opinion is the first and best protection of 
government. 

This influence is sustained by bestowing honors upon those who 
distinguish themselves in agricultural labors. Any one making a 
useful discovery is brought to court, and on communicating it to the 
Prince, is sent, at the expense of the government, through the different 
provinces to teach his new method. Agriculture has been thus fos- 
tered from time immemorial. Every agricultural region, enjoying a 
long period of peace, must abound in inhabitants. China is very 
populous, and enjoyed or was rather incumbered by her immense 
population when conquered by the Tartars: many, therefore, infer 
that the laws of the empire were very wise because they were adopted 
by the conquerors; but the Tartar consent to the government of 
China, does not prove the goodness of its laws. The law of nature 
is, that large masses shall control the small, Vk^hich law obtains as well 
in morals as in physics. If v.e compare the number of the con- 
querors with that of the conquered, it will be seen, that for every 
Tartar there were at least fifty Chinamen. One individual cannot 
change the manners, customs and laws of fifty men; then how could 
the Tartars do otherwise than adopt the laws of China, whether good 
pr bad, particularly as they had none to institute in their stead. 



424 CHINA. 

This conquest is worth comparing with that of the Spaniards in the 
New World, where, in exception to the general rule, a handful of 
men imposed laws and customs, at the point of the sword, upon a 
great number of nations, which were without both, or, those found 
among them were badlj constituted. The extraordinary revolution 
of China, demonstrates the cowardice of the nation, and the indif- 
ference towards its princes is characteristic of a state of slavery. 

The immensity of its population tends to annihilate the sentiment 
of tenderness for offspring, which is common to man and brute, and 
disposes parents, from selfish motives, to destroy their own children, 
without the feelings of the public being outraged, almost making us 
doubt the existence of an innate perception of right and wrong. 

May the slow advancement of the arts and sciences in China be 
attributed to the excessive population? Properly speaking, there is no 
machinery nor estensive manufacturing establishments in the empire, 
similar to those, which, in modern times, have sprung up all over 
Europe. They know nothing of the economy of time. Most of the 
manufactures, required to supply the commercial houses of Canton, 
are made at Fu-shaw, a large town situated a few miles to the west- 
ward of the city: still, the number of hands and the amount of labor 
performed is by no means inconsiderable. There are annually em- 
ployed in weaving silk, about 17,000 individuals, men, women and 
children, which number is increased when there is a pressing demand 
for their labors. From the prevalence of a utilitarian principle, 
always crying cui bono? their improvements have generally halted 
at a point, far short of perfection. It is an evidence of culpable in- 
difference — a state of mental repose, worthy the name of lethargy, 
so contrary to the natural inclination of man, may be attributed to 
the overgrown population; since their urgent necessities require that 
all their powers should be directed to the acquisition of the common 
sustenance of life, leaving them but little time either for reflection 
or retirement. The population of the empire is reckoned at 360 
millions, and it is supposed one hundred millions are capable of 
bearing arms. Supposing China to be the most populous region of 
the universe, does it not follow, as a natural consequence, that it is 
the most corrupt? Experience teaches, that the vices of communi- 
ties are in proportion to the number of individuals composing them. 
Can we suppose, that the customs of the Chinese, throughout their 
extensive empire, are more unchangeable than in great European 
cities, where honor, a sentiment unknown in China, lends splendor 
to virtue, and, to a great extent, tempers vice? 

It does not appear that these people possess the refinement which 



AND THE CHINESE. 425 

has been claimed for them. Impunity of crime is rather the distin- 
guishing mark of a barbarous than of a civilized nation. Though 
every circumstance suggests to them colonization, they do not com- 
prehend its policy, or they disdain resorting to a means so simple and 
so safe, to drain the surplus population, preferring their everlasting 
distress. What neither the providence nor prudence of the govern- 
ment will undertake, circumstances have compelled many to attempt. 
Necessity has driven thousands from their homes in China, to seek a 
livelihood in other countries. They are found at Batavia, where, for 
a century past, thousands annually arrive, but, comparatively, few 
return. In Banka, they are employed in the tin mines; at Sin- 
gapore, they are mechanics or traders; and in Borneo they are 
numerous, and variously employed; in Bankok, they compose four- 
fifths of the population: in short, they are scattered from Bom- 
bay, through India, both continental and insular, scarcely a town in 
the vast extent being without them. They are superior to all the 
other people of the East, on account of their habitual industry, and 
their labor is more profitable! The relative value of the labor of 
Chinese, Malays, and Chouiiahs, (natives of the Malabar and Coro- 
mandel coasts,) at Penang, or Prince of Wales' Island, is thus stated 
by Mr. Crawfurd, in his "Embassy to Siam and Cochin-China:" a 
Malay field laborer works but twenty-six days in the month, and re- 
ceives $2.50 wages; a Chouliah works twenty-eight days, and re- 
ceives $4.00; a Chinaman thirty days, and receives $6.00. Therefore, 
the labor of a Chinese is worth fifty per cent, more than that of a 
Chouliah; a Chouliah's seventy-five per cent, more than that of a 
Malay, and the Chinese one hundred and twenty per cent, beyond 
the latter. 

A love of his native soil, a common feeling to all men, induces 
many of these Chinese adventurers, after acquiring a little property, 
to return to their respective provinces, where they are, in general, 
soon despoiled, under some miserable pretext, by the Chinese au- 
thorities. On emigrating, they join some one of the secret societies, 
found every where, existing as branches of the great Triad society, 
the object of which is to overthrow the Tartar government; and if 
the branch to which they belong happen to be fewer in number than 
others in the place where they return, they become subject to false 
accusations, which are sv/orn to by hundreds of that society, while 
those of their own brotherhood are afraid to step forward in their be- 
half. They do not murder, but their victims are occasionally enticed 
to the hill country, and there flogged to death. 
54 



426 CHINA 

Nobility, in China, does not consist in ancestral and hereditary 
honors, but in personal rewards; the simple title of noble does not 
give distinction, which is here the meed of merit alone. Many ma- 
gistrates, and persons in dignified situations, are selected from fami- 
lies whose only occupation is the labors of the field. The merit of 
a son ennobles the father, but this pre-eminence ends with him. 
This law may be admired, though we know that hereditary nobility, 
also, possesses advantages. Where is there an individual so base, 
who does not feel the weight of a name, descended through a long 
line of distinguishing ancestry, and feel emulous to preserve his ho- 
nors, and hand them down to his descendants unstained. But no- 
bility in China is not what it is in Europe. The mandarins, and peo- 
ple in high office, are almost universally selected from a certain class, 
called the literary, so that the pursuit of letters is the high road to 
official preferment. The literary institutions of China are the pillars 
of the government. Her military forces are inadequate to hold to- 
gether the numerous and extensive provinces and territories that con- 
stitute the wide domain of the reigning dynasty. Both the army and 
navy have become enervated and dissolute. " As police-men, in the 
capacity of lictors, thief-takers, and executioners, they are not less 
detested than feared by the common people. They are, in fact, for 
all purposes of defence, little better than dead men; nay, were they 
stricken from the catalogue of the living, we can scarcely doubt that 
the stability of the empire would remain unimpaired."* 

High rank in the state is the greatest glory to which this people 
aspire; and, because it brings them within reach of that dazzling 
prize, learning is chiefly valuable in their eyes. Strict examina- 
tions, regulated by a fixed code of laws, have been instituted and de- 
signed, solely to elicit from the body of the community, * the true ta- 
lent' of the people, with the ulterior intention of applying it to pur- 
poses of government. At these examinations, which are open to all 
except menial servants, lictors, play-actors, and priests, it is deter- 
mined who shall rise to distinction, and shed glory back on their an- 
cestors, and forward, upon their posterity, and who shall live on in 
obscurity, and die and be forgotten. The competitors at the Olym- 
pic games never entered the arena before the assembled thousands of 
their countrymen with deeper emotion than, that which agitates the 
bosoms of those who contest the palm at these literary combats. The 
days on which they are held, and their results published in Canton, 
are the proudest its inhabitants ever witness. 

* Chinese Repository. 



AND THE CHINESE. 427 

"The highest literary examinations in the empire, are triennial, 
and take place at Peking. Besides these stated, there are also occa- 
sional examinations which are granted by special favor of the empe- 
ror. Up to these contests the most distinguished scholars go from 
all the provinces. This privilege is not gained without long, patient, 
and successful endeavor^ the examinations, at which it is deter- 
mined who shall enjoy it, occur also triennially, and are held in the 
metropolis of each province. These examinations are of incompar- 
able interest to great multitudes of people in every department and 
district of the empire. High honors, rich emoluments, and, in a 
word, every thing that the young aspirant and his numerous kindred 
most esteem, are at stake."* 

Though many thousand candidates offer, only a limited number 
can obtain the degree which entities them to the highest trial in the 
capital of the celestial empire. Many individuals spend their lives 
in anxious study, and submit to frequent examinations, without ever 
reaching the goal of their ambition. Hence it is, that the most re- 
spectable families destine one or more sons to become competitors 
for literary distinction, but often leave the rest uneducated, and ig- 
norant even of reading and writing. 

Whatever, from its nature, cannot be divided, as the sea, rivers 
and canals, is common property; navigation, fishing and hunting are 
free; the domain of the citizen is not subject to feudal laws. This 
is a rational state of things; but in a densely populous country, people 
cannot forego their crops, to convert their fields into parks or hunt- 
ing grounds, nor can the wealthy arrogate to themselves exclusive 
privileges of wilds and waters: these laws, then, are rather the result 
of necessit}^ than prudence. 

The eulogists of China declare, that the priests dare not assert 
odious pretensions over men or property, nor have they ever at- 
tempted to do so. They are certainly very numerous, and enjoy, 
even the mendicants themselves, large possessions, but without any 
perceptible tax on citizens: they would hold the priest to be insane, 
who should support himself, whatever he requires being due to the 
sanctity of his character. This, however, others deny, and tell us, 
the priests are more intriguing, more dissolute and more idle than 
those of any other country, besides being the most importunate beg- 
gars in the world. 

Toleration in China only extends to the religions anciently esta- 

* Chinese Repository. 



428 CHINA 

blislied in the empire; Christianity has been proscribed, and edicts 
are fulminated against it from time to time. For this reason, ac- 
counts of the success of the missionaries in Canton are not published 
in the " Chinese Repository," fearing that their converts might be 
seized through such reports and banished to Tartary. 

With the exception of the customs, collected in the sea-ports, 
only two taxes are known in the empire; one, a personal tax, paid 
by every individual according to his means, from the age of tv/enty 
to that of seventy years, and the other upon produce, which is either 
a tenth, twentieth or thirtieth, according to the qualities of the soil. 
The manner of collecting these taxes is as paternal as the contribu- 
tions themselves. The only charge of the public on those of small 
means, is to billet upon them the aged, the sick, and the poor, until 
their tax be thus paid off. 

The mandarins receive the tithes in kind, and the capitation tax 
in money; the municipal officers deliver these to the treasury, 
through the hands of the provincial treasurers. The destination of 
these revenues precludes mal-practice in their collection. It is 
known that one part is devoted to the maintenance of the magistrates 
and military; the proceeds of the part sold is not issued from the 
treasury, except in case of public necessity; and, finally, the remain- 
der is stored for time of need; so that what they loaned in times of 
abundance is again paid back to the people. Yet in spite of these 
precautions, and the encouragement given for the importation of rice, 
severe distress often falls upon the poor. Death by starvation 
amongst the indigent about Canton, is of almost daily occurrence. 
We occasionally see notices of donations to provide for the burial of 
the poor, who have thus miserably perished, and for the support of 
those, who, with life, have overcome the horrors of their condition; 
but the pittance given is often beneath contempt. 

The eulogists of the Chinese contend, that man must multiply prodi- 
giously, in a nation enjoying so many advantages; a nation remarka- 
ble for the fecundity of females; where libertinism is very rare; 
where the extension of paternal rights and authority, necessarily in- 
spires a passion for a numerous oft'spring; where rights are equal; 
where the mode of life is simple, and always conducted with a strict 
view to economy; where bloody wars are not frequent; where cus- 
tom inhibits celibacy; where the climate is healthy, and epidemics 
almost unknown. As no country is more favored in these respects, 
no country is more populous; and, indeed, it is too much so; for the 
annals of the empire prove, that a failure of the crops rarely occurs 



AND THE CHINESE. 429 

without being followed by popular commotions. It is not necessary, 
they continue, to seek farther for the causes that restrain the march 
of despotism. These frequent revolutions suppose a people suffi- 
ciently civilized to know what respect is due to property; that the 
submission they concede to the laws are secondary obligations, sub- 
ordinate to the unalienable rights of nature, which have constituted 
society only for the convenience of all its members; and the mo- 
ment they are in want of necessaries, the Chinese acknowledge a 
power which does not support them, for the obligation of preserving 
the people constitutes the rightful duty of sovereigns. 

The emperor is aware, that he reigns over a people who observe 
the laws no farther than these contribute to their happiness; that if 
he should act in a tyrannical spirit, he would run the risk of being 
hurled from his throne. In this, there is no great diiference between 
the Chinese and Europeans, as is abundantly seen both in modern 
and ancient history. The sovereign placed at the head of a people, 
who observe and judge of his acts, does not erect himself into a be- 
ing to whom every thing is permitted; he does not break the sacred 
contract under which he holds his sceptre; he is so well convinced, 
that the people understand their rights, and possess the power of de- 
fending them, diat, when they join in opposition to the mandarin go- 
verning a province, he at once displaces him, and delivers him over 
to trial, without any previous investigation of his case; and even if 
acquitted, he does not send him back, because it is considered a 
crime to have incurred the displeasure of the people. This compla- 
cency, which, in other countries, is a constant source of intrigue and 
discord, is found not to be inconvenient in China, because its inhabi- 
tants are naturally of a mild disposition and lovers of justice. Since 
necessity forces the prince to be just, it ought also to make him pru- 
dent and foreseeing. 

It seems, that both the laws and customs of China join in esta- 
blishing it as a fundamental principle, that the Chinese nation is one 
family, of which the emperor is the patriarch. He exercises his au- 
thority as a father, and not as a conqueror, nor as a legislator; and it 
is impossible to imagine the high respect and love the Chinese bear 
their sovereign, or, as they style him, their common, their universal 
father. This popular homage is founded on that established by do- 
mestic education. In China, both father and mother maintain an 
absolute authority over their children, no matter what may be their 
age, or how high the rank to which they may have attained. And 
this is but just, because the parents are responsible for the acts of 



430 CHINA 

their children. ''If a son commit murder and escape, the father's 
head may satisfy the demands of justice. Paternal authority and 
filial love are the walls of the empire; they are the protection and 
support of its customs; and the bond of union, as well between the 
prince and his subjects as between themselves. 

The Chinese government, in its march towards perfection, has 
reached the point whence all other governments set out; a patriar- 
chal government is that of nature itself. 

But, on closer examination, we find the emperor of China is a des- 
pot, wearing the title of father. The Chinese live under a double 
despotism; parental tyranny, and the civil tyranny of the crown. 
Whence we may infer, what is true, that they are the mildest, the 
most insinuating, the most plausible, the most respectful, and, at the 
same time, the most vile, the most cowardly and submissive of slaves. 
What is the effect of paternal despotism, but to produce outward re- 
spect and latent feelings of resentment towards the parent? And 
what is the effect of civil despotism upon the individuals of a na- 
tion? — Baseness and the extinction of every moral virtue. A patri- 
archal government, according to our notions, can only exist in a tribe 
pursuing a pastoral life in a limited territory, and is chimerical when 
applied to a population of three hundred and sixty millions of peo- 
ple, spread over a vast empire. Neither the emperor nor his man- 
darins, if they possess any knowledge of themselves or their own 
acts, can believe in its existence. They must smile at the decep- 
tion, they practise upon their slaves. 

Religion exercises no influence upon the government. The diffe- 
rences of sects and their disputes cause neither wars nor distur- 
bance. The literary mandarins, the body from which all civil offi- 
cers are appointed, presiding at the examinations above mentioned, 
select those only to become members of their class, who are to their 
taste; nor do they permit the priests to interfere in matters of go- 
vernment, nor to make their own dogmas the base of public morals. 
Confucius, whose memory and doctrines are equally revered by all 
classes and sects, and whose precepts were illustrated by his own ex- 
emplary practice, founded the national religion of China. His code 
is the natural law in action. Confucius teaches, that reason is an 
emanation from divinity; the supreme law is the concordance of na- 
ture and reason, and that these guides are communicated from hea- 
ven, or God. The Chinese have no epithet for God in their lan- 
guage, but speak of him as " Master of heaven." The emperor is 
the pontiff and judge in religious matters. This unity of power might 



AND THE CHINESE. 431 

be dangerous, were it not kept in check, by national customs and 
public opinion, which are ingrafted upon the minds of the people by 
early education. 

Before five years old, the Chinese do not pretend to instruct their 
children. At that age they are taught to write words, or rather hie- 
roglyphics, which are representatives of tangible things: after this, 
they commit to memory sententious verses, and moral maxims of 
the sages. At a more advanced age, they are taught the philosophy 
of Confucius. Such is the common education. Those who are des- 
tined to become competitors for literary honors, and a place in the 
class of literary mandarins, add other studies, the object of which is 
to point out the proper conduct of man in various situations of life. 

Another branch of education is the study of the code of ceremony 
of etiquette, in the observance of which the Chinese are scrupulously 
exact. They accord a species of worship to urbanity, which, to a cer- 
tain extent, conduces to the harmony of society; though it tends to 
repress mental activity, much in the same manner that external wor- 
ship makes hypocrites while it assists true religion. There are tri- 
bunals for the punishment of infractions of the established laws of 
courtesy, as well as for those of moral rectitude. 

There are persons who are disposed to view and extol the Chinese 
as a nation of sages, without pausing to consider their many crimes 
and imperfections. They are a people who destroy their own tender 
offspring; a nation wherein the most infamous crimes are common; 
where the crimes arising from want, are neither punished nor pre- 
vented; where the merchant cozens his fellow-citizen and the stran- 
ger; where a knowledge of the language is the remotest boundary 
of science; where a language and a literature, scarcely adequate to the 
common purposes of life, have remained for ages unimproved; where 
the guardians of morals are people without honor or probity; where 
justice is venal to an extent unexampled on the face of the earth; 
where the great legislator Confucius, so much revered, is unworthy 
perusal, unless we excuse the poverty of his writings in considera- 
tion of the ignorance of the times in which he lived; where a chain 
of beings, from the emperor to the lowest vassal, live by preying 
one upon another; and where the sovereign permits no one to fatten, 
except with the design of sucking his blood, when it may suit his 
imperial appetite; and who, by despoiling those who have abused 
power under him, has obtained the title of avenger of his people! 

Those who have visited China unanimously agree, that the great- 



432 CHINA 

est caution is requisite to avoid being cheated^ in fact, " As great a 
cheat as a Chinaman," has become a proverb. 

A European merchant,, after receiving on board his vessel the goods 
he had purchased, discovered that he had been deceived both in their 
quality and price; but as he asked a small deduction on this account 
he did not doubt, the Chinaman would readily come into his views. 
The European began, *' You have sold me mprchandise of a very 
inferior quality." 

" That may be, but you must pay." 

" You have treated me unjustly and abused my confidence." 

'' That may be true, but you must pay." 

" Then you are a cheat and a scoundrel." 

" That may be, but you must pay me, nevertheless." 

" How do you wish me to speak of the Chinese in Europe, where 
they are supposed to be virtuous? I will say you are a set of 
cheats." 

"You can do that," coolly replied the Chinaman, *'but you must 
pay." 

The European, after heaping abuse upon the fellow, and fretting 
himself into a rage, without obtaining any thing farther than the 
calm reply, *' you must pay," was forced to count down the money. 
On receiving it, the Chinaman said, " Instead of getting yourself into 
a passion, would it no be more better, you no have speaky, and begin 
where you have finish?" 

Not long since, a gentleman met at Honan, opposite to Canton, an 
unfortunate Chinaman, who had broken an arm. Compassion for 
his situation induced him to carry the poor fellow to a physician across 
the river to dress the fracture. The gentleman for some time paid the 
fellow's daily ferriage, but as the arm had improved, ceased to do so. 
One day he asked the patient why he had neglected to visit the 
physician. "Because," he replied, "you no have give money, pay 
sam-pan. This one very fine thing for you, to have make well my 
arm this fashion; but me no come doctor house no more, you no 
pay." 

Such is the shameless effrontery and cool impudence of the Chi- 
nese, which seem to be also parts of their education. 

Their notions of justice may be gathered from the following anec- 
dotes related to me by the parties concerned. 

A lady at Macao put into the hands of a Chinese tailor, materials, 
valued at forty dollars, to be made into a garment. At the appointed 



AND THE CHINESE. 433 

time, it was brought home, but to her mortification, the material had 
been completely spoiled, and the habit was not fit to wear. It was 
returned upon the workman's hands, and the husband of the lady 
applied to the Portuguese authorities for redress; but was put off, 
under one pretext or another, from time to time, till his patience was 
exhausted. He now applied to a mandarin, and offered to give him 
the material in the tailor's hands, provided he should succeed in 
making him pay twenty dollars as damages, which were also to be- 
long to the officer of justice. The Chinese officer willingly under- 
took the case, and in a day or two, reported somewhat in the follow- 
ing manner: '* Me have squeezey that tailor-man that silk, and that 
twenty dollar, me thinkey you one very good man, one man what 
know justice, and law; me likey you; suppose you please, me give 
you my son, for one servant, so he learn justice all same from you!" 

On another occasion the same lady employed a tailor to make two 
dresses. He brought home one of them and demanded pay for making 
both. The lady told him she would do so when the other dress was 
finished. '* How can finish that other one piece dress — some man 
steal him, now me no got the silk." 

Of their mode of reasoning we may form some idea from an anec- 
dote in relation to the late Lord Napier, who was termed by them 
an " eye,'^ it would seem the only word they could find in their lan- 
guage equivalent to the term superintendent; and certainly it is suf- 
ficiently symbolic of the superintendent's official duties.* 

The British merchants were anxious to impress upon the Chinese 
that Lord Napier was a man of exalted rank, and consequently could 
not submit to the indignity of communicating with the government 
through the medium of the Hong merchants. They told them, he 
was a lord, a nobleman, which the Chinese, having no hereditary no- 
bility except in the family of the emperor, could not clearly com- 
prehend. They remarked, *' He is a nobleman in your country; how 
many men are there, of the same rank?" and were told, *'a great many, 
perhaps a thousand." 

" Are there any people of higher rank?'* 

* There is a remarkable disposition on the part of the English translators of 
Chinese to be hteral; and hence it is, we find "barbarian" for foreigner, "eye," 
for superintendent. Sec. Would it not be better in these cases to forego the 
ridiculous, and render the Chinese words by the English equivalents, as is prac- 
tised in translating other languages? What would be said of one who should 
seriously set down ground apple, as the English of pomme de terre? 
55 



434 CHINA AND THE CHINESE, 

** Yes, Viscount." 

*' Wellj how many Viscounts have got?" 

*' A great many." 

" Well, any of higher rank than Viscounts?" 

*' Yes; Earls." 

•* Well; any more?" 

" Yes; Marquises." 

*' Well; any more?" 

*' Yes; Dukes." 

** Well; any higher than dukes?" 

" None except the king and royal family." 

" Well, then, now me know, this eye, Lord Napier, all the same 
as one common mandarin!" 

The charity of the Chinese, to judge from their charitable institu- 
tions at Canton, is not very active. There is a foundling hospital, 
an alms-house, and an hospital for lepers, which are supported by du- 
ties levied on foreign ships. Within a few years, a dispensary, under 
the successive care of European or American physicians, has been 
opened. At present it is under the management of the Rev. Peter 
Parker, M. D., who is indefatigable in his exertions, and, thus far, 
his surgical operations, chiefly for diseases of the eye, have been very 
successful. I paid a short visit to the establishment, when there were 
from eighty to one hundred patients, receiving, in turn, professional 
advice and medicine. 

Patriotism, if such a sentiment exist, displays itself in making 
roads, planting trees on the roads, and erecting lodges to shelter the 
traveller. They esteem China and its inhabitants to be superior to 
all the rest of the world, and treat all foreigners with contemptuous 
condescension. Wedded to their own country entirely, the Chinese 
neither derive from, nor lend aid to other people. It is difficult to 
form an accurate opinion of this nation; for strangers are not allowed 
to enter it, nor are its own subjects allowed free egress and return. 
But, we may doubt their pre-eminence until they bring us works in 
philosophy superior to those of Locke, Descartes, or Spurzheim; 
works on mathematics, equal to those of Newton, Leibnitz, and their 
successors; works in general literature, worth perusal; or painting, 
statuary, and architecture that may claim admiration. What is Con- 
fucius when placed beside Franklin, Bacon, or Montesquieu?* 

* In compiling- this chapter, Staunton's China, the Chinese Repository, and 
La Historia de los Establecimientos Ultramarinos have been the chief sources of 
information, and have been freely used. 



SKETCHES 



IN THE 



BONIN ISLANDS, 



I^jLAND Of FORMOSA. 437' 



CHAPTER XLL 



SKETCHES IN THE BONIN ISLANDS. 

Julyy 1836. 

At five o'clock, P. M., on the 23d of June, the Peacock got under 
way, in company with the Enterprise, and both vessels stood sea- 
ward, among the Ladrones, a group of small islands in the vicinity 
of this part of the coast of China. The name is derived from the 
Portuguese, and given by them from being a lurking place, from the 
remotest period to the present time, for hordes of Chinese pirates. 
In 1809-10, the pirates navigated 1800 vessels, large and small, 
manned by 70,000 individuals;* a numerical force greater than that 
of the British navy at the present day. 

For the first few days the weather was a succession of squalls, rain, 
calms, and hot sunshine, and the wind prevailed from the northward 
and eastward. We came in sight of the island of Formosa, and had 
determined to pass through the Formosa passage, and enter the Pa- 
cific Ocean by doubling the north end of the island; but, fortunately, 
the wind proved more favorable, and we were enabled to follow the 
Bashee passage, between the south end of Formosa and a group of 
small islands called the Bashee. 

Formosa is mountainous, and sustains a numerous population, es- 
timated at between two and three millions. In 1683, after the con- 
quest of China by the Tartars,, it fell into the hands of the Chinese: 
previous to that time, however, the Dutch had established themselves, 
and were expelled (1624) by the Chinese conquerors. The western 
side of the island, alone, is under the Chinese yoke, and seems not 
to be held quietly; for, constant struggles are made by the aborigines 
from the eastern side of the mountain chain which divides the island, 

* Chinese Repository, vol. iii. 



438 BONIN ISLES. 

to free themselves. The island is considered as a department of the 
province of Fuh-keen; it supplies China with sugar, rice, and cam- 
phor, in large quantities. 

Formosa is admirably situated for trade. It is within ninety 
miles of China, and four hundred and fifty of Japan, and still less of 
the Philippines. Should any European power desire an insular 
position, with a view to commerce with China and Japan, a more de- 
sirable one cannot easily be found. 

We scarcely entered the Pacific Ocean before we found a general 
improvement in the sick, though the weather was not uniform, or 
remarkably pleasant. On the evening of the 14th of July, we made 
the Bonin Islands; and the next day, at half past two o'clock, P.M., 
piloted by Mr. Savary, who came off to us in a canoe, we anchored 
in Port St. William, as it is to be in future called, though formerly 
known as Port Lloyd, or Port St. George. 

The Enterprise, Captain G. N. Hollins, had anchored about three 
hours before us. 

" Oh, had we some bright little isle of our own. 
In a blue summer ocean, far off and alone, 
Where a leaf never dies in the still blooming' bowers. 
And banquets on through a whole year of flowers; 
Where the sun loves to pause 

With so fond a delay. 
That the night only draws 
A thin veil o'er the day; 
Where simply to feel that we breathe, that we live, 
Is worth the best joy that life elsewhere can give. 

" There, with souls ever ardent and pure as the clime, 
We should love, as they loved in the first golden time; 
The glow of the sunshine, the balm of the air, 
Would steal to our hearts and make all summer there! 
With affection, as free 

From decline as the bowers. 
And with Hope, like the bee 
Living always on flowers, 
Our life should resemble a long day of light. 
And our death come on, holy and calm as the night I" 

Thus sang and sighed a half dozen hardy sons of the ocean, about 
the year 1829. They had tried their fortunes in every clime; they 
had attempted continents and isles; but Dame Fortune always frowned 
upon their efforts. They were at the Sandwich Islands, tired of the 



RONIN ISLES. 439 

world, when they heard the Bonin Isles were a paradise, not only 
of the mighty Pacific, but of the whole world. Its waters were re- 
presented, truly, to abound in fish and turtle, and its wilds in game, 
its shores with safe harbors, its mountainous surface in beautiful val- 
leys, and its soil was capable of producing every thing without cul- 
tivation or toil. The Bonin Islands offered them, then, a place where 
they might retreat from all the cares and vexations of the world, 
and foK the future be free from all anxiety. They flattered them- 
selves, that the soil would produce so abundantly, that they would 
be soon enabled to supply vessels employed in whale fishing, with fresh 
fruits and vegetables, which in a short time would result in competency 
and even fortune to themselves, when they might return again to the 
society of the world. 

In this mind, Mathew Mazarra, a Genoese, Alden B. Chapin, 
Nathaniel Savary of Massachusetts, Richard Millechamp of England, 
and Charles Johnson of Denmark, set sail from the Sandwich 
Islands, accompanied by several of the natives, male and female, 
who served them as servants and wives. In June, J 830, they arrived 
at the haven of their hopes, and before reaching the land, they found 
they had been misled, but it was too late to retreat. They landed 
and began the settlement of that island of the group, called by Captain 
Beechey, Peel's Island. 

•' These islands, which are about twenty-nine degrees east of Can- 
ton and eight south from Jeddo, are most conveniently situated for 
watching the trade of China on the west, the Philippines on the 
south, and Russia on the north; and if any intercourse is soon to be 
opened with the Japanese, they form the position from which it could 
be most easily effected. The earliest account which we find of the 
Bonin Islands, is conta^ined in Koempher's History of Japan. * About 
the year 1675,' says the historian, ' the Japanese accidentally dis- 
covered a very large island, one of their barks having been forced 
there in a storm from the island of Fatsisio, from which they com- 
puted it to be three hundred miles distant towards the east. They 
met with no inhabitants, but found it to be a very pleasant and fruit- 
ful country, well supplied with fresh water, and furnished with 
plenty of plants and trees, particularly the arrack tree, which, how- 
ever, might give room to conjecture, that the island lay rather to the 
south of Japan than to the east, these trees growing only in hot 
countries. And because they found no inhabitants upon it, they 
called it Bunin Sima, or the Island Bunin, (in Chinese woojin — 
without people,) the uninhabited island. On the shores they found 



440 BONIN ISLES. 

an immense number of fish and crabs, some of which were from four 
to six feet long;' "* probably turtle. 

In September, 1825, the port was visited by an English ship, 
named the Supply, and in 1826, the William, a whale ship belong- 
ing to London, was lost here, owing to neglect. In June, 1827, the 
port was visited by Captain Beechey in H. B. M. Ship Blossom. 

When he arrived off the harbor, they met two individuals in a 
boat, who proved to be a part of the crew of the unfortunate Wil- 
liam. *' This ship, which had once belonged to His Majesty's ser- 
vice, had been anchored in the harbor in deep water, in rather an 
exposed situation, the port then not being well known, and had part 
of her cargo upon deck, when a violent gust of wind from the land 
drove her from her anchors, and she struck upon a rock in a small 
bay close to the entrance, where in a short time she went to pieces. 
All the crew escaped, and established themselves on shore as well as 
they could, and immediately commenced building a vessel from the 
wreck of the ship, in which they intended to proceed to Manila; 
but before she was completed, another whaler, the Timor, touched 
there and carried them all away, except our two visiters, who re- 
mained behind at their own request. They had been several months 
upon the island, during which time, they had not shaved, or paid any 
attention to their dress, and were very odd-looking beings. The 
master, Thomas Younger, had unfortunately been killed by the fall 
of a tree, fifteen days previous to the loss of the ship, and was buried 
in a sandy bay on the eastern side of the harbor."! 

The Blossom remained from the 8th till the 15th of June. Cap- 
tain Beechey took formal possession of the island in the namejjf His 
Britannic Majesty, and nailed to a tree a sheet of copper, with the 
necessary particulars engraved thereon. He named the harbor, in 
compliment to the Bishop of Oxford, Port Lloyd, and the island in 
which it is situated Peel's Island. 

In August, 1834, the American barque Volunteer touched at the 
Bonin Islands to procure supplies. Having been informed, at the 
Sandwich Islands, that the settlers had gone to the south island, she 
made for that first, and, after a fruitless search for them of three 
days, found them on the south of the north island; and on the 24th, 
under the pilotage of Mr. Mazarra, the ship was worked into the 
harbor, now named by the settlers Port St. George. The latitude is 

* Chinese Repository, 1835. 

I Beecliey's Voyage to the Pacific and Beerings' Straits. Philadelphia, 1832. 



PORT ST. WILLIAM. 



441 



9.7° 6' 30'^ north, and the longitude 142° 16' east.* Their position, 
on the most modern chart, is very much to the westward. 

We found the entrance of the harbor, the approach to which is 
very pretty, to be on the south-western side of the island. The rocks 
are, in many places, castellated, and some of them, on close exami- 
nation, present the appearance of rude masonry, wherein the stones 
had been piled up loosely together, and a mortar, or cement, after- 
wards poured in amongst them. Within a few miles of the coast are 
seen, here and there, a fragment of rock standing above the sea, like 
a sentry-box, or watch-tower. 

The general outline of the bay is oval, being about a mile and a 
half long, and three-quarters of a mile wide, having the entrance to- 
wards the southern end, which, between the promontory, on the south 
side, and the quoin-shaped rock, mentioned by Beechey, we esti- 
mated to be half a mile wide. The breadth of the channel, how- 
ever, does not exceed a quarter of a mile. The land round the bay 
is broken into numerous angular hills by ravines, rather than valleys, 
beautifully green with close-growing trees and shrubs, which flourish 
to the water's edge. The average height of the hills is, perhaps, four 
hundred feet| and the highest point does not, probably, exceed six 
hundred. The shore of the harbor is broken into several small bays, 
or coves, bounded by white sand beaches, which, contrasting with' 
the blue sheet of water, and, here and there, the white spray dashing 
over a dark rock, imparts a picturesqueness to the whole scene. 

However bright the picture to a sea-weary voyager, or however 
fit for the pencil, Mazarra and his followers saw nothing in the deep 
ravines, and fan-leaf palm, and cabbage-tree, to invite them to esta- 
blish their home upon this uninhabited island. But it was too late to 
turn back. Though disappointed to find there were no plains of any 
extent, and the small basins of level land among the hills were co- 
vered by a close jungle, they set to work, and now show, with no 
little satisfaction, the result of their tedious and painful toil. The 
same industrious perseverance in the * far west ' w^ould have made 
them comparatively rich mCn^ but here their snugly thatched cabins 
are valueless, in the event of their leaving the island, which is not 
improbable, and then their six years' labor is thrown away. Nor 
have they been free from those difficulties from which they fled. 
They found here, as every w^here else, that man is doomed to earn 
his bread by the sweat of his brow. Until their first harvest, their 

* Chinese Repository, 1835, 

5% 



442 THE BONIN ISLES. 

food consisted almost entirely of turtle and the pith of the cabbage- 
tree, which no one eats except from necessity. Instead of a mild 
and benignant clime, every year has brought typhoons and earth- 
quakes, and the numerous uptorn trees bear testimony of the vio- 
lence of these storms. Indeed they have never been able to obtain 
bananas, for the reason that, about the period of their maturity, the 
plant is destroyed, or torn away by a typhoon. Neither the phases 
of the weather nor the prevalence of the wind have been regular in 
their succession any two years. 

Besides these difficulties, dissensions crept into their little com- 
munity, and still exist. They have been several times annoyed by 
refractory seamen, turned on shore by the masters of whale-ships, 
where, being without a fear of punishment, they have committed out- 
rage and violence to an extent seriously detrimental to the prosperity 
of the settlement. In 1833, the whaler Cadmus left fifteen men on 
shore, among whom were some of daring character, who put the set- 
tlers at defiance: eight of them perished in an attempt to leave the 
island in a whale-boat, and the rest have been since taken away. 

Within a few days, a written code has been agreed to by all the 
settlers, now fourteen in number, the principal features of which are, 
that all disputes shall be decided by the opinion of the majority; that, 
henceforward, no individual shall instruct or assist any vessel in 
taking turtle, nor shall any one, in future, sell turtle, or feed his hogs 
upon it; no one shall maltreat the slaves or servants of another, or 
endeavor to seduce any woman from her lord; nor shall any one en- 
courage men to desert from ships arriving at the island; but, on the 
contrary, use every effort to apprehend and return every deserter to 
his vessel. This code is signed and sworn to by all; and it is re- 
markable, that only three of the fourteen are capable of writing their 
names: Mazarra, the most respected among them, is not one of the 
latter number. 

The morality of the community is, I fear, of a low grade, and re- 
ligion is out of the question. Most of the white men have one or two 
wives, natives of the Sandwich Islands. In all, there are nineteen 
women on the island, among whom infanticide and infidelity, which 
they are at no pains to conceal from their husbands, are common: 
and this in a population not exceeding forty souls! 

On the evening of our arrival, I accompanied several officers in 
pursuit of turtle. We landed on one of the sand beaches in the bay, 
under the dark shade of the high land. We had scarcely sprung on 
shore, before a turtle weighing between two and three hundred pounds 



THE BONIN ISLES. 443 

was found, and turned upon his back. Encouraged by this success 
we searched the whole beach very carefully, but without finding any 
thing-. We now divided the party, and took our stations along the 
sand to await until the animals should come up from the deep, as 
they are wont to do at night to deposite their eggs. The sky was 
bright with stars, and there was a dead silence, only interrupted by 
the sullen splash of the sea: we lay shrouded in the shade of the rocks 
beneath wide spreading treesj and the whole scene disposed the mind 
to wander from present objects. I gazed upon the heavens, and won- 
dered that man^ could become so lost to his own interest, and in af- 
fection for friends at home, as to prefer an exile " The v/orld forget- 
ting, and by the world forgot,'' on an isle like this, 

"In a blue summer ocean, far off and alone," 

to pursuing an honest life beneath his native skies. 

The revery was broken by a canoe gliding gently upon the sand, 
and two athletic forms leaped silently upon the shore, and drew their 
frail bark after them. They advanced towards us without speaking, 
and we could discern through the deep shadow of the hills, that they 
were seamen in coarse shirts and trousers. They proved to be Ame- 
ricans who had been nearly a year on the islandji and v/ere now on 
the same errand with ourselves. They told us they were out every 
night, and the beach we were upon, was a very good one for our pur- 
pose. They led us into the edge of the bush where the turtles go to 
lay their eggs, and after a little while, we found one as large as our 
first prize. 

A fellow feeling and sociability had suddenly grown up between 
the newcomers and our boat's crew. The two quondam whalers at 
once aided tliera in dragging the turtle to the boat, and assumed a 
generous contempt for an animal, over which an alderman's eyes 
would have sparkled, when some one gave a hint about " the poor fel- 
lows having a share." "Why, we have it every day," said they, as 
they launched their little canoe, and with one or two strokes of the 
paddle urged it out of sight, though not out of ear shotj for the stroke 
of their paddles and the sound of their voices were heard some time 
afterwards. 

After watching another hour we returned on board, and found ano- 
ther party had been more successful, having taken five. 

From February till August, great numbers of turtle visit the sandy 
beaches, where they deposite their eggs in the sand beyond the reach 
of the tide. In a few weeks the process of incubation is completed 



444 CLARKSTON. 

by the heat of the sun alone; and the young turtles, numbering from 
one to five hundred in each nest, betake themselves to the water. 
The half grown turtles may be taken on shingle and rocky shores, 
but never on sand beaches. After the season they disappear, and, 
from some of them having been taken with Japanese hooks in them, 
are supposed to visit the coast of Japan. Dampier, speaking on this 
subject in his voyages, expresses his opinion that the habits of turtles 
are migratory. 

While here, we caught about forty, any two of which furnished 
ample food for one hundred and eighty persons during a day. Not- 
withstanding the innumerable eggs deposited and hatched, the set- 
tlers think the number has in the past years diminished, and hence 
the regulation above mentioned in relation to them. They suppose 
the turtle does not attain its full size in less than five years. When 
they first escape from the egg, they are about the size of a dollar; and 
when full grown, from four to six feet long. 

The next day we pulled ashore, and landed near a mass of rock 
standing apart from the shore and connected to it by a flat of broken 
stones, over which we made our way to the beach. It is narrow, and 
forms a dividing line between Port William and a small bay, which 
opens more to the southward. Here Mr. Mazarra met us, and led us 
towards the little village, at the entrance of which are several broad 
leafed trees. Several Sandwich islanders, men and women, were 
lounging on some rough hewn logs, beneath their shade. We halted 
here for a moment, and Mr. Chapin and an Englishman can>e forward 
to welcome us. The latter was tremulous, and had a wild expres- 
sion, which betrayed his fatal addiction to the abuse of intoxicating 
spirits. We learned afterwards, that three barrels of New England 
rum had been lately obtained; and, having been nearly a year with- 
out any thing of the kind on the island, it had met with rather a hear- 
ty reception. " Nothing will be done," said the ' old gentleman,' as 
Mazarra is respectfully styled, " until it be all gone, and that will be 
in a few days." 

We were now led through the village, consisting of half a dozen 
comfortable huts, each fenced in with vertical posts of cabbage tree, 
including a small garden in front. We were conducted to the dwel- 
ling of Mr. Chapin, and ushered into a square apartment that be- 
trayed the professional taste of the tenant. On our left stood a ta- 
ble, covered with newspapers and writing materials, and over it, upon 
the wall, hung a spy-glass, and a thin manuscript, headed " Laws of 
the Bonin Tsles." A sea chest stood on each side of the room, and a 



THE BONIN ISLES. 445 

bed with calico curtains, filled each corner. A few French prints, and 
a shelf of fifty or sixty miscellaneous volumes, occupied rather than 
adorned the walls. A chair of home manufacture, and a three-legged 
stool completed the furniture. 

A door between the beds communicated with two inner apart- 
ments, half the size of the first, in which were women engaged in af- 
fairs of the household. The roof was thatched with fan-palms, and 
the walls hung with coarse mats. Such is the general style of the 
huts of this new settlement, which is called Clarkston. 

Mr. Chapin, barefoot and in shirt and trousers, his face shaded 
by a broad hat of sinuate, invited us to be seated; and as he con- 
versed, with folded arms, walked the floor as if he had been upon a 
quarter deck. He was polite and intelligent. He showed us his 
corn field, and a saline spring close at hand, and assisted us in pick- 
ing up some small shells from a fresh water stream. Melons, yams^ 
sweet potatoes and taro were abundant, and the Indian corn was 
flourishing. 

Among the vegetable productions of Bonin, are several varieties 
of wood well suited to cabinet work; but difficult to get at, from the 
almost impenetrable jungle in which they grow. It was said that 
camphor and spice trees abounded, but the settlers have not yet met 
with either. 

Hogs and goats are numerous, and many are running wild in 'the 
bush.' Domestic fowls, in spite of feeding and kind treatment have 
forsaken the village, and subsist wild in the jungle. 

When the settlers came to the island they found the house-fly in 
great numbers, and to their surprise, more numerous in the interior 
of the island than upon its coasts. Small lizards, crows, and a 
species of ptyropus, called flying fox, were very numerous. The 
latter were very troublesome to the products of the gardens. While 
here, we got two of the foxes on board; one alive, which in the 
course of two days became tame and fond of being caressed. It 
ate melon and sweet potato, and remained in the cabin suspending 
itself by its hind legs. One day it alighted on the stuffed skin of its 
mother, when it manifested much sensibility, and clung to it with seem- 
ing affection. This is the animal, erroneously mentioned in Beechey's 
Voyage, as a Vampire bat. It is of a blackish gray color, and has 
light chestnut colored irides; but in other respects does not differ 
from that seen in various parts of India. 

On a second visit to Clarkston, we found our acquaintances on the 
beach with a number of dogs, which they found of very great use in 



446 THE BONIN ISLES. 

their hunting of hogs and goats. They had instructed the dogs to 
catch fish, and two of them will plunge into the water and seize a 
shark, one on each side, bj the fin, and bring it ashore in spite of re- 
sistance. One of these dogs had several scars, which he had re- 
ceived in contests with wild boars; and on one occasion was so 
severely wounded, that his master carried him home on his back, a 
distance of several miles. 

I embarked with a friend in a small canoe, paddled by two 
Sandwich Islanders, and, crossing the bay, ran through a natural 
tunnel, or rocky cave, open at both ends, which pierces the southern 
promontory of the small bay. The passage was perhaps thirty yards 
long, and there was just room for the canoe with its wide-spreading 
out- rigger to pass. The water within the cave was smooth and of 
considerable depth, but so transparent, that various sea-shells and dif- 
ferent colored marine growths were seen among branching coral at the 
bottom. Emerging on the other side we were in the open Pacific. 
Next we entered a little bay, wherein a number of porpoises were 
sporting gaily in their native element; and the canoe was paddled 
to shore and drawn up on a pretty sand beach, which at this point 
was not more than ten feet wide, dividing the blue waters of the 
ocean from a stream, which, from its stagnation and greenish color, 
might be mistaken for a pool. A canoe loaded with melons and 
pumpkins, floated on its surface; and a Sandwich Islander, asleep in 
the shade of a rock hard by, declared it to lead to some habitation or 
cultivated ground. It is emphatically called the river. In a mo- 
ment our light bark was carried over the sand and launched upon its 
peaceful bosom. We again embarked and pursued its windings for 
half a mile. It was perfectly calm and silent, and no animated 
thing except ourselves, was abroad. On one side, the rocky bank rose 
perpendicularly three or four hundred feet; on the other, it spread 
out into a level plain, a quarter of a mile in extent, covered with 
trees and wild brush wood. Presently we espied, on a point stretch- 
ing into the stream, a little terrier, that stood with ears erect and one 
foot raised, regarding us with attention. We had no sooner doubled 
the point than we met Mr. Mazarra in a canoe. He had been to his 
plantation; but kindly turned about, and we paddled on together for 
a quarter of a mile, and landed. 

This plantation, where we saw corn, yams, sugar-cane, and taro 
{arum esculentum) growing luxuriantly, extends on either side of 
the stream to a considerable distance. The soil is rich, and the 
hills rise on all sides forming a long narrow valley. After examin- 



THE BONIN ISLES, 447 

ing the farm, we entered the dwelling of our host, which resembled 
the huts at Clarkston, and refreshed ourselves with a fine mek)n, I 
obser-ved herq a great number of spiders, and wondered thej were 
permitted to infest the domicii, till Mazarra said, "We find them 
very useful in killing the flies about the house, and are glad to see 
them." 

We returned as we came, and not finding our boat at Clarkston, 
spent some time wandering over the rocks, which the tide had now 
left, in search of shells. 

I have sometimes asked myself, whether our friends who have con- 
chological propensities, ever think of the labor and peril often under- 
gone to obtain the specimens which they desire for their cabinets. 
Many a severe illness have I known to result from expeditions of 
this sort, the individual being alternately drenched by the sea, and 
exposed to the blaze of a tropical sun; and, at the same time, per- 
haps, snuffing up the morbiferous effluvia from some neighboring 
marsh. Then, one's hands are often severely cut and scratched by 
efforts to detach the animals from their place of abode. 

We found specimens of beautiful limpets, turbo, and the giant 
clam {tridacna gygcts-) Those of the last genus, nine or ten inches 
long, were usually found between rocks, secured by the peduncle or 
foot below, and the zig-zag mouth gaping open an inch wide, the 
thin membranous portion of the animal, which is of a purple color, 
floating over the margin of the shell. When disturbed, the mem- 
brane was immediately drawn in, and the shell closed, at the same 
time spirting a fine thread of water, ejected as it might be from a 
syringe; sometimes air bubbles alone escaped. A half hour's hard 
labor was not unfrequently expended to obtain one. 

By surprising them, limpets may be easily detached; but if they 
ever take the alarm at your approach, their resistance often foils your 
wish to obtain a perfect shell. They are furnished with a thick 
fleshy belly, which, on occasion, applies its edges very closely to 
the rock, while the centre is raised so as to produce a vacuum; then, 
the weight of the superincumbent atmosphere is sufficient to press 
them with great firmness to the spot of location. Chitons offer the 
same kind of resistance. I have often watched these latter animals, 
and observed their movements. Locomotion in them, is effected by 
undulating the surrounding fleshy rim, which binds their several 
pieces together, and is much more rapid than one would suppose. I 
have seen them on a smooth rock, drive off every other sort of shelL 
Indeed, it would seem that all the marine animals of this character are 



448 THE BONIN ISLES. 

o-reo-arious. Those of the same class are found in groups, waiting to 
receive the food, that the water may cast in their way, or deposite 
around them when it recedes. 

By some process, the smooth shells are covered with a slime, 
which enhances the brightness of the colors in the young individuals 
when recent, which is somewhat diminished after the animal is 
killed, and the shell cleaned. In the old shells, the slime attaches 
to itself particles of sea-weed, sand| and sometimes small shells of 
different species, which give it a coating that in time becomes a part 
of the shell. 

These animals do not labor all for themselves. The small ones 
are destined to become food for the larger; and their habitations 
often become homes of a kind of crab, which manages to remove the 
owner and architect, and take possession himself. From this cir- 
cumstance, sailors call them pirates. They usually select some uni- 
valve shell that has an inner chamber, in which they accommodate 
the soft part of their bodies, leaving their heads and claws outside, 
to seize upon their prey and drag their habitations after them. On 
this island, there are two species of land helix^ but I could not find 
a single one alive. The pirates had taken possession of them alL 
On a distant part of the island I found, one day, hundreds of pirates, 
clothed in almost every species of univalve, feasting on the remains 
of a dead turtle. They appeared like people of every nation in their 
respective costumes, congregated at a fair. There was one thing 
in common; they were all rapacious, and all had red claws. My 
approach gave them alarm, and they hurried away in all directions 
to escape. Some little crabs had got into shells disproportionately 
large, and waddled off like a boy under a man's hat and coat; while 
others had lived so long in their shells as to outgrow them: these 
found their houses no impediment to rapid flight. The villains 
seemed to possess a sense of right and wrong, and fled, because 
they knew they had been guilty of murdering the innocent, to ap- 
propriate their homes. I could show them no quarter; though I 
presume, they only pursue the instincts of their nature. 



SKETCHES 



IN THE 



SANDWICH ISLANDS 



57 



FUNERAL AT SEA. 451 



CHAPTER XLIL 



SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 

Septemlevy 1836. 

On Thursday, the twenty-first day of July, at six o'clock, A. M. , 
the little squadron got under way, and bade farewell to the Bonin 
Isles. For the first few days the wind prevailed from the north- 
ward, and was accompanied by rain. 

On the 25th of July, at meridian, (latitude Sl° 50' N., longitude 
150° 28' E.,) the remains of Mr. J. Dickinson Mendenhall, acting 
purser of the Enterprise, were committed to the deep. Mr. Men- 
denhall, for several years a valetudinarian, was taken ill at Bankok| 
but sailed from Macao in a state of convalescence. A few days 
afterwards he suffered a relapse, and for the sake of better accom- 
modation, was received into Captain Stribling's cabin on board of 
the Peacock, on the 28th of June, in the China Sea. 

A funeral at sea is always impressive: the present was particu- 
larly S05 for we were paying the last tribute to one who had been 
generally beloved and respected by the officers of the squadron. 

The flags of both vessels were at half mast; the coffin, covered by 
a flag, was placed in the lee gang-way; the tolling of the ship's bell 
summoned the officers and crew on deck; a solemn silence every- 
where prevailed, broken now and then by a slight swash of the sea 
against the vessel's side. While the service of the church was being 
read, the Enterprise, with tolling bell, passed under our stern, and 
came close under our lee. Her bell was silent; the officers and 
crew were gazing from deck; one plunge — and the broad blue bosom 
of the Pacific Ocean closed over the mortal remains of one much 
loved, leaving no trace to mark his grave. 

His friends have the consolation of knowing, that his illness was 
smoothed by every possible attention; and that his last moments 



452 ARRIVE AT OAHU. 

were as tranquil as sleep. His exemplary moral life should make 
us hope that when the sea shall give up her dead, he will wake in 
the mansions of the blest. 

Between the latitudes of 32° and 34° north, we saw many large 
shoals of flying fish; and now and then a dark-colored albatross, cir- 
cling and sailing through the air with easy motion, now pausing and 
again shooting ahead, as if to show how impossible it was for the 
ship to follow in his flight. The weather was cool, and every one 
found cloth clothing comfortable, though the thermometer still ranged 
above 70° F. The crew, long saddened by scenes of sickness and 
death, now resumed its wonted cheerfulness, and again the joyous 
song, the dance and merry fife, which from the time of sailing from 
Bombay had been silent, were nightly heard upon the forecastle. On 
a foggy night (August 3d,) we had parted company with the Enter- 
drise, and were now alone; yet, there was ' a little warlike world 
within,' which put at defiance the loneliness of the waste of waters. 
Carpenters, tinkers, and coopers plied their respective trades, and 
all the routine of ship's duty was carried on with more cheerfulness 
than it had been for many months. 

On Wednesday, the tenth of August, at meridian, we found the 
latitude to be 32° 24' north, and the longitude 178° 5V west. We 
had passed the 180th degree, and were therefore more than halfway 
round the world, eastward from Greenwich. In order to make our 
reckoning of time correspond with that between us and it, the fol- 
lowing day was also reckoned, Wednesday the tenth of August; so 
that each of us may exclaim with the noble Roman, *^I have lost a 
day." 

On the morning of the seventh of September, after a tedious and 
unpleasant passage of forty-nine days, we descried the island of 
Oahu, one of the Sandwich group. As we drew nearer we found it 
mountainous, rising about four thousand feet above the level of the 
sea, barren and forbidding in its aspect. A low coral reef, a mile 
distant from the shore, surrounds the island, and a white line of 
foaming breakers, on the southern side, every where meets the eye. 

About four o'clock P. M. we doubled Diamond point, a hill, for- 
merly the crater of an active volcano, marked by gullies, which may 
have been formed by streams of overflowing lava, and opened the 
village of Waititi, four miles from Honolulu. Presently a pilot 
boarded us, and v/e learned, that the Enterprise, now in sight, had 
arrived the day before. Our expected arrival had been announced 
by the schooner Honduias, which, by running as far as forty degrees 



HONOLULU. 



453 



north, had made the passage from Canton in forty-five days. About 
sunset we anchored in the outer roads. 

TJie harbor of Honolulu is peculiar. A deep cove or bay is formed 
between Diamond and Long points, which are fifteen miles apartj 
but with the exception of a deep hole or basin, the v/hole space is 
filled by a plain, or reef of coral, which rises to within a few feet 
of the surface of the water. Between the above named points is 
stretched a line of breakers, interrupted by a channel, one hundred 
and sixty-seven fathoms wide and four and a half deep, which forms 
the entrance to what is termed the inner harbor. 

At daylight the next morning, the anchor was weighed and the 
ship was towed into the channel. Long track-ropes were carried to 
the reef and about two hundred Sandwich islanders, wading knee deep 
in the water, upon the field of coral, seized them, and, cheered by 
their own song and chorus, drew or tracked the ship to the anchorage 
which is close to the shore. The basin is always smooth, being 
effectually protected by the coral reef to seaward. 

The town, as seen from the ship, presented several comfortable- 
looking houses, and in the rear, there is a beautifully green valley 
which throws it into strong relief. The belfry of the seaman's chapel 
stands conspicuous, and imparts an air of civilization, which one 
would scarcely expect to meet at a place so recently emerged from 
barbarism. A small white fort stood upon our left, from which our 
noisy salutation was returned by an equal number of guns, and on 
the left was a fish-pond, formed by a wall of stone one or two feet 
above the surface and enclosing a sheet of water, several acres in 
extent. An extinct crater, in the rear of the town, familiarly called 
the Devil's punch bowl, overlooks the bay, which, by mounting a few 
pieces of ordnance around its edge, has been converted into a respec- 
table fortress. 

Honolulu is not only the capital of the island of Oahu, but being 
the chief residence of the king, also of the Sandwich Isles, though 
Hawaii is the largest and most populous^ and with the natives gives 
name to the group and to their inhabitants. It is irregularly laid out, 
and from the houses being enclosed by fences of * adobes' — large 
blocks of sun-dried clay— and the place being almost entirely without 
trees, its aspect is cheerless. Most of the houses are composed of a 
sort of thatch, and, in form, closely resemble ricks of sun- burnt hay. 
They are floored with mats, and, internally, have an air of snugness 
rather than comfort. The few dwellings occupied by foreigners, 
built either of blocks of coral cut near the beach, or of adobes, or 



454 THE HAWAIIANS. 

wood, are tolerably comfortable; some of them, for elegance and neat- 
ness, might be compared with well appointed cottages. The popula- 
tion of the town is estimated at between six and seven thousand, of 
which number about two hundred are foreigners, chiefly Americans 
engaged in trade. 

The Haw:aiians are an imitative people, and as far as their means 
allow, ape the costumes of foreigners. Hence life in the streets is 
as various as it is grotesque. Here we see a group of men, some 
wearing an ancient cloak, consisting of a square piece of native cloth, 
either yellow or parti-colored, worn under one arm, generally the right, 
and the ends knotted on the opposite shoulder; some place it over, 
instead of under the arm, and many of them possessing fine muscular 
forms, are perhaps not inaptly compared to the old Romans in their 
togas, whom we are taught to admire. Others are entirely naked with 
the exception of a garment, termed ' maro,' which, like the * langote ' 
of India, is very small, being merely a string about the loins, to sup- 
port a fold of native cloth worn perpendicularly between the limbs. 
Others, again, add to this some single cast garment, as a vest, a coat, 
pantaloons or shirt; and with either one, esteem themselves in full 
dress. The women usually wear a loose slip or gown, and are very 
fond of stringing flowers into necklaces or fillets for their heads. 
Some even wear supple twigs full of green leaves. Those who have 
been improved by the instructions of the missionaries, if they be 
chiefs, wear silk dresses and straw bonnets; but instead of encum- 
bering their feet with shoes or stockings, display well tataiid ankles. 
The Hawaiians of the plebeian classes are of moderate stature; but 
the chiefs, male and female, are remarkable for their great size and 
flabby obesity. Their heads are proportionably small behind the 
ears, possibly owing to a custom of sustaining them, while infants, 
by resting the back of the head upon the hand, and stroking it up- 
wards, to secure a flattened occiput, which is considered a mark of 
beauty. Their hands and feet, among the females at least, are of 
aristocratic smallness. Their faces are rather flat and broad; the lips 
are full, and the nose spread; but it is without the peculiar flatness 
which distinguishes this feature in the negro. When in repose, their 
countenances are grave, but are easily lighted up by smiles, and are, 
on the whole, agreeable. Their complexion is olive, and their gene- 
ral appearance resembles that of the Siamese more than any people 
I have seen; and as, with them, the chiefs are very large: one mea- 
sured six feet four inches high, with a frame developed in excellent 
proportion, and was not considered, by the Hawaiians, remarkable for 
size. 



DRIVES ^THE PARI. 455 

Though few years have elapsed since the introduction of horses, 
which are now numerous on the principal islands of the group, the 
Hawaiians have become dexterous horsemen, and have learned to 
wield the laso with a precision only excelled by the gauchos of Bue- 
nos Ayres. Both men and women assume the masculine posture 
when mounted, and are now seen riding through the streets of Ho- 
nolulu at all times, more particularly on Saturdays, and always at a 
rapid rate. But none, as yet, aspire to drive wheel carriages for 
pleasure. 

The Hawaiians are now a mild race of people, tolerably docile, 
and capable of improvement. They are expert at all athletic exer- 
cises; and, as swimmers, they are unrivalled. Like their monarch, 
they are disposed to run to excess in all that engages their attention, 
which, however, is not easily roused. The British Consul told me, 
that when marbles were first introduced by him, those in his neigh- 
borhood did scarcely any thing else than play with them for two or 
three months, and the same thing happened with kites. That they 
are honest, there can be little doubt, for the foreign residents make 
very little use of locks and keys. Riding, one day, in the country, 
1 lost a glove, which was brought to me three days afterwards, in the 
town. They occasionally display humor, and laugh heartily at a 
joke. The officers of H. B. M. ship Blond, when here, were anxious 
to procure some of the ancient idols, to carry home as curiosities. 
The demand soon exhausted the stock on hand: to supply the de- 
ficiency, the Hawaiins made idols, and smoked them, to impart to 
them an appearance of antiquity, and actually succeeded in the de- 
ception. A boy who had observed this penchant for the curious 
among the officers, obtained a chicken's foot, and, having smoked it 
well, carried it to the distinguished virtuoso of the ship, saying, as 
he worked the toes by pulling at the ends of the tendons, " Wont 
you buy this; see how curiously it moves; — you have nothing sq 
strange as this." 

There are several pleasant rides in the vicinity of Honolulu; Eva, 
or Pearl River, a beautiful valley; the Salt Lake; the valley of Manoa, 
and the Pari, or Precipice. The latter is the termination of the fine 
green valley of Nuanu, the sides of which are almost perpendicular, 
and highly picturesque, from a mingling of the pale leaves of the 
tutui with the darker foliage of the surrounding vegetation, and oc- 
casional rills and cascades, which fall several hundred feet. This 
valley crosses the island, and terminates abruptly by an almost per- 
pendicular precipice, several hundred feet high, celebrated in the 



456 CLIMATE SOIL-^PRODUCTS. 

wars of Tamehameha. From its brink there is a fine view of the fer- 
tile district of Kolau and the Pacific ocean, chafing itself into foam 
on the shore, and thence stretching itself awav till its blue bosom 
kisses the sky. 

Though the elevation, probably, does not exceed four hundred feet, 
the climate is very different from that of the plain whereon stands the 
capital, and is, therefore, a favorite resort for invalids and valetudi- 
narians. In the high ground, the air is tempered by almost daily show- 
ers, and, by the trade wind sweeping freshly, in strong currents, be- 
tween the hills^ while, on the plain, seldom visited by rain, it remains, 
pretty constantly, dry and warm. During our stay, the thermome- 
ter ranged from 70° to 90° F. , though its average yearly range is 
stated to be from 70° to 80° F. 

The soil is fertile wherever reached by water, and yields yams, 
taro, {arum esculentum,) potatoes, pumpkins, corn, melons, bananas, 
grapes, pine-apples, &c. The domestic animals are horses, bullocks, 
hogs, goats, dogs, &c. Sheep do not thrive, but the beef is excellent. 
Sugar, coffee, cotton, silk, and salt, may be produced abundantly^ 
and, in time, will become the great sources of the nation's commer- 
cial wealth. 

There are no reptiles upon the island, nor, indeed, upon any of the 
group; except scorpions and centepedes, introduced from the Society 
Islands, cockroaches, flies, and mosquitoes,* the insect tribes are 
few. Birds are not numerous, and the few found here are not re- 
markable for their plumage. There is one species, which has one or 
two yellow feathers under each wing, which are much prized for 
making a sort of tippet, or fillet, for the neck or head. 

The waters afford several varieties of excellent fish, and the rocks 
are inhabited by many very pretty shells. There are several species 
of land shells, and two or three species lately found in the fresh water 
streams.! 

Besides the active trade of the place, and the continuous change 

•The facetious editor of the "Sandwich Island Gazette" informs us that 
mosquitoes have been recently introduced by a gentleman from New England — 
degustibus, &c. 

f I saw, here, a species of spondylus, nine or ten inches long-, and five or six 
broad, having a semicircular cavity, or chamber, in the lower valve, capable of 
holding one or two table-spoonfuls, containing water, said to be fresh, which may 
be seen flowing beneath the transparent nacreous lining. The whalers, by 
whom the specimens are brought here from the Society Islands, call it the 
" shoe shell." 



EVIDENCES OF CIVILIZATION. 457 

of costume, there are other evidences to the transient visiter, that the 
people are emerging from barbarism, and advancing towards a state 
of civilization. A vt^eeklj newspaper, entitled the *' Sandwich Island 
Gazette and Journal of Commerce," in English, was begun on the 
SOth of July, 1836, An attempt was made to suppress this paper in 
its infancy, by Kinau, the Governess of Oahu. She put her veto upon 
its publication, and shut up the printing office. The editor applied 
to the king, then on a visit to one of the windward islands, for his 
authority to publish it, and received a note from His Hawaiian Ma- 
jesty, of which the following translation appears in the Sandwich 
Island Gazette. 

"To Stephen D. Mackintosh. 

Honolulu, Oahu. 
I assent to the letter which you sent me. It affords me pleasure 
to see the works of other lands, and things that are new. If I was 
there, I should very much desire to see. I have said to Kinau, make 
printing presses. My thought is ended. Love to you and Rey- 
nolds, By King Kauikeaouli. 

There is another in the native language, entitled, " Ke Kumu Ha- 
waii," which will be referred to in the sequel. 

There are three practitioners of medicine, one English, and two 
American, residing herei there is a seamen's chapel and a reading 
room, as yet almost without readersi to which may be added, as addi- 
tional evidence of the march of civilization, billiard tables, bowling 
allies, grog shops, livery stables, and restaurans, both foreign and 
native, and they all meet with a sufficient patronage, because the 
vices are more aptly acquired than the virtues of civilized life. 

The grog shops are licensed, but it is to be regretted that they have 
not been suppressed in compliance with petitions signed by eighteen 
masters of whale ships, and two thousand eight hundred native chiefs. 
These shops are the bane of his subjects as well as of the foreign sea- 
men coming to the islands, the king would be consulting his own in- 
terest and the welfare of his people, by inhibiting the sale of spiritu- 
ous liquors at retail. Many whale ships, rather than incur the risk 
of difficulties arising from this source, have ceased to visit the port, 
and now resort to other places for the purpose of refreshing their 
crews, and the king thus loses an amount of revenue equal to the 
port charges, &c., of all these vessels. 

On several occasions I passed a Hawaiian restaurant's — a straw 
hovel in which were assembled numerous guests, enjoying themselves 
58 



458 EATING RAW FISH — BILLIARDS. 

after the fashion they admire most, while as many, in the various cos- 
tumes described above, were gazing wistfully in upon them from the 
outside. The earth floor was covered by mats. Groups of more 
than half naked men, squatted in a circle with gourd plates before 
them, supplied with raw fish and salt water, and by their side an 
enormous gourd, of the dimensions of a wash tub, filled with poe, a 
sort of paste made of taro. They ate of the raw fish, occasionally 
sopping the torn animal in the salt water as a sauce, then sucking it, 
with that peculiar smack which indicates the reception of a delicious 
morsel. Next the fore and middle fingers were dipped up to the 
knuckles in the tub of poe, and by a dexterous twirl made to con- 
vey the food to the mouth. At the proper moment the head is thrown 
back, and the mouth is opened to receive the fingers, which are now 
sucked clean of their load. Alternating one or two mouthfuUs of 
raw fish with as many of poe, they thus feed until satisfied, for which 
they pay six and a quarter cents. This charge includes the feeding 
of the children and dogs of the guest, which must be a considerable 
drawback upon the profits, if we may judge from the number of chil- 
dren and lank curs mingled among the groups. 

Of this revolting feast, in which the face and hands are pretty well 
smeared, we were invited by a smile and a gesture to partake. Though 
I had, before witnessing this scene, argued with myself, that eating^ 
raw fish was not a more violent practice, than eating raw oysters, the 
invitation caused me to turn away in disgust. The sight was nau- 
seating. It may do in theory, but in practice the stranger will find 
such feeding out of the question. 

At night the billiard tables are resorted to by foreigners and na- 
tives. At one or the other, one is sure to meet His Haw^aiian Ma- 
jesty King Kauikeaouli, attended by some of his high chiefs. He has 
recently come out of his minority, a stoutly limbed young man five 
feet seven or eight inches high. His face is flat and broad, and his 
countenance mild. He is fond of athletic exercises^ plays skilfully 
both at billiards and bowls; rides well, hunts well, and readily joins 
his lowest subjects in the severest toils. Not long ago a ship was 
cast away near Diamond point, and the king, in a tarpaulin and sai- 
lor's shirt and trousers, assisted actively in saving the cargo. He is 
of a cold temperament and not easily excited; but whatever he un- 
dertakes, he executes with enthusiasm. He is fond of ships, and de- 
lights in navigating among the several islands of his dominions. 

I had the honor of an introduction to His Majesty on the night of 
our arrival. We found him bowling for a bottle of wine with seve- 



KING KAUIKEAOULI AND HIS COUllT. 459 

ral chiefs. He was dressed in white driHing; pantaloons, without sus- 
penders, and a white jacket, wearing a neatly plaited parti-colored 
straw hat, set knowingly on one side of his head. To measure him 
by the social code of refined life, his manner of receiving us was 
frank and unassuming, while it partook something of mauvaise honte. 
He speaks English intelligibly, but prefers his own language, and it 
is difficult to get him to talk in any other in the presence of more than 
one or two persctns. After the usual salutation, he seized a ball in 
his left hand and resumed his game with great energy. He wants 
dignity. The commonest skippers that visit the port, familiarly ad- 
dress him by his name, Kauikeaouli, and do not hesitate even to put 
their arms about his neck, which he very good-naturedly submits to, 
without thinking tiiat it derogates any thing from royalty. I saw him 
thils solicited to give up bowls for a game of pool, and he led the way 
to the billiard room, where he was playing when the clock struck 
eleven. He threw down his cue at once, though in the middle of the 
game, and the lights were extinguished in obedience to a curfew law 
made by himself, to restrain dissipation of this sort. 

On the tenth of September, we saw His Majesty under different 
circumstances. Commodore Kennedy, with many of the officers of 
the Peacock and Enterprise, paid him an official visit. We were re- 
ceived in a stone or rather coral house, by a chief in a blue military 
frock coat, who led us to the second story and introduced us into a 
plainly furnished room. Here we found the king, his sister Naihea- 
naina, and his two half-sisters, Kinau the governess of Oahu, and 
Auhea, commonly spoken of by her cognomen, the big-mouthed queen. 
The king wore a blue coat with two gold epaulets, white pantaloons 
and vest; and the ladies were in black silk. They received us stand- 
ing, but in a few minutes seated themselves on a sofa, in front of 
which stood the Rev. Mr. Bingham as interpreter. A common-place 
conversation occurred, and a glass of wine was offered. 

These feminine chiefs, all of them of Herculean form, had an air 
which may be styled shabby-genteel, evincing at the same time a de- 
sire to comport themselves as became their station; and, considering 
their opportunities, succeeded remarkably well. At the expiration of 
twenty minutes we took leave, followed by a number of foreign re- 
sidents, who had accompanied us. 

Kauikeaouli is a son of the famous Tamehameha, and brother of 
the late King Riho'riho. He is genteelly dissipated, but not vicious. 
Though capable of reading both English and Spanish, his general 



460 THE PRINCESS NAIHEANAINA 

knowledge is very limited; his reading, like that of most of his sub- 
jects, being merely a mechanical operation. He has probably read 
very little besides his school books. He was educated under the sur- 
veillance of the missionaries," but at the same time influenced by the 
advice and example of evil-minded strangers, who delighted to thwart 
the eflforts of his pious tutors; and we must not therefore be surprised, 
that he is not so well educated as he might have been under diSerent 
circumstances. 

A few days after this interview, the Princess Naiheanaina, gave 
birth to a son, and, in consequence of imprudently indulging in a 
cold bath, became dangerously ill, and her medical attendant, Mr. 
Rook, desired me to see her with him. The child lived but a few 
hours. The public expressed a doubt whether her husband, or her 
brother, the king, were the father; but in either case the child would 
have been heir to the throne. It must be borne in mind, that very 
few years have elapsed since incestuous connexions among the nobles 
were not considered criminal, because they were common, and even 
legal; and that Kauikeaouli and Nainheanaina were affianced when 
young, according to the ancient custom of the nation. 

On reaching the gate of the enclosure in which stood the dwelling 
of the princess, we were obliged to wait until announced, before the 
sentry would open it. The house, which was a very large one, had 
several small ones in the vicinity for the accommodation of her house- 
hold. Beneath a thatched shed at one side of it, were lounging twenty 
or thirty men and women on newly cut grass. One of these came 
forward and took our horses. We entered a large apartment, the 
floor of which w\as covered with mats, and the thatched roof was 
lined with the same. The posts and rafters were bare, showing the 
sinnate lashings which held them together. Two female chiefs were 
seated near a small table covered with red cloth, in the middle of the 
room, listlessly fanning themselves and smoking short pipes. Small 
gourds, with a few blades of fresh grass in the bottom of each, were 
on the table, and used as spittoons. 

The king, attired in a short blue military jacket, white pantaloons, 
and cloth cap of naval pattern, received us, and at once led the way 
to the apartment of his sister. It was separated from the other by a 
chintz screen. We found the princess lying upon a soft mattress, 
which rested on a pile of line mats, eighteen inches high, and about 
twelve feet square. A quantity of white tapa-cloth, covered her royal 
person. Around her were reclining several females gently fanning 



AND HER PALACE. 461 

her with kahiris*, assisted by her husband, the young chief Lelehoku, 
a son of Karaimoku, celebrated as the Wm. Pitt of Hawaii. Seve- 
ral fat chiefs, weighing not less than eighteen stone each, in shirt and 
pantaloons, were stretched upon the floor, solacing themselves either 
with pipes or poe. The countenances of Kauikeaouli and Lelehoku 
betokened a tender solicitude for the princess who was suffering 
pain. 

On a second visit a few days afterwards, we found a change in the 
decoration of the apartment. Green boughs were suspended from 
the ceiling to within three or four (eet of the bed, and a pink satin 
counterpane, bordered with black velvet, hung by a cord from its 
centre so as to fall over the bed in loose folds, somewhat like a tent. 
The chamber was fragrant with the fresh limbs and flowers^ and, al- 
together, might be compared to a grateful shade beneath some wide 
branching tree. 

After expressing our opinion of the case, various subjects were 
talked of, and amongst them that of phrenology. The king, who had 
been told of the unwillingness of the Siamese princes to permit any 
one to lay hands upon their heads, said that a similar custom had pre- 
vailed in the Sandwich islands^ and the prejudice was so strong that 
the roof of a house in v/hich a king resided never could be repaired 
in case of necessity, because the workmen would be obliged to mount 
above the king's head. If the roof leaked, the house was deserted, 
or torn down and built anew upon another site. 

One of the big chiefs offered me, in a spoon, some hoe — a paste pre- 
pared from yams, in the same manner as poe from the taro- — which he 
took from a small calabash, into which he had been dipping his fingers. 
On tasting it, I remarked that it wanted salt. He then presented a 
saucer of tutui nut mingled with salt, which, added to the hoe, ren- 
dered it more palatable. I told him it was very good. " Ah, " said he, 
smiling, *' if you v/ere to reside with us for a time, you would become 
civilized, and learn to appreciate what is good." 

On taking leave, the princess declared that our visit had been of 
much service, because our conversation had served to divert her 



* The kahii'i is a slight staff about three feet long-, having feathers, black, yel- 
low, or red, attached to it for about two-thirds of its length, while the other is 
covered by numerous rings of polished tortoise shell, so neatly joined as to ap- 
pear a solid casing. The handle is of ivory, (whale's tooth,) and highly polished. 
Kahiris were much used as badges of office; and for that purpose made of large 
size, and borne in procession before the chiefs upon occasions of ceremony. 



462 THE LUAU. 

thoughts from her uncomfortable situation. Before our departure, 
on both occasions, wine was offered at a ta})le in the apartment.* 

The king accompanied us to the door, and cordially invited us to 
call whenever we could make it convenient. As we passed, we had 
leisure to observe the sentry at the gate, and seldom have we seen so 
perfect a personification of laziness. His musket stood against the 
wall on one side of the gate, while he rested his person against it on 
the other, with folded arms and half-closed eyes. This warrior was 
completely attired in a white shirt and a straw helmet, the rest of 
the Windsor uniform, in which the king's troops were wont to parade, 
according to Mr. Stewart, having yielded to the devouring effects of 
time; or, perhaps, they were in reserve for gala occasions. 

An opportunity of seeing and tasting food a la Hawaii was afforded 
us on the 20th of September, by an invitation to a Luau, or feast, 
prepared by native cooks, given by the foreign residents to Commo- 
dore Kennedy and the officers of the squadron. At three o'clock 
P. M. I found the company assembled, at Makiki, about a mile from 
Honolulu, in front of a large house of dry thatch, a la Oahu. Fresh 
cut grass was strewed about where the guests were promenading 
away the ''interminable half hour before dinner." A little beyond 
were the horses of the company, held by their servants, among which 
were mingled numbers of idle spectators. In a few moments after 
my arrival dinner was announced, and we penetrated the hay-stack- 
shaped edifice. Two long tables, loaded with various viands, stretched 
along its whole length on each side. The floor was of mats, and the 
walls and beams and posts were garlanded and bedecked with green 
boughs and flowers. The British consul, assisted by the American 
acting vice consul, presided. The number of guests, including the 

* I am informed by Mr. J. K. Townsend, recently returned from the islands, 
that the Princess fell a victim to her own imprudence in a similar illness, on the 
5th of January, 1837. The Hawaiians recognise two deaths; one of the mind or 
soul, and the other of the body; therefore, the tomb of Naiheanaina informs us 
that her death took place on the 30th of December, 1836, the day upon which 
she became delirious. On this occasion, the multitude, in token of their sorrow, 
knocked out their own front teeth; some only one, some more, in accordance 
with the ancient manners of the island. The operation is performed by driving 
a wooden wedg-e between the front teeth with a stone, while the patient lies 
stretched upon the ground. 

Mr. Townsend intends to give the public the notes of his travels and adven- 
tures across the Rocky Mountains, in California, the Society and Sandwich islands, 
&c. 



FATTENING FISH- — DOQ-EATING. 463 

king, several of his chiefs, many of the most respectable foreign 
residents, and a Tom-Dick-and-Harry company, might have been 
seventy-five, all shuffled together at the tables, without observing the 
least ceremony in regard to rank or place. 

The tables and benches were built up for the occasion on the spot, 
and by some oversight the benches were so weak that several of the 
guests were nearly overturned. Both were covered with fine white 
tapa cloth — made by beating the macerated bark of a mulberry 
tree — and in difete champetre answered very well the place of a more 
costly material. 

The feast consisted of dogs, poultry, pigs, &c., luaued; that is, 
after being carefully wrapped in leaves of the ti plant, cooked by 
being buried amidst stones heated for the purpose. They were then 
served up with boiled taro tops, which are a good substitute for spi- 
nache. Meats cooked after this manner, have a slight taste of the 
ti plant, and are very savory. This mode of cooking fish — the mul- 
let particularly, is preferable to any other that I have seen. The 
Hawaiians take great pains to have fine fish. They take them when 
small, and convey them from the sea to a pond of salt water, where 
they are fed for several months^ thence they are carried into brackish 
water, and finally introduced into fresh ponds, where they are care- 
fully tended. 

Near my place at table was a fine young dog luaued, the flesh of 
which was declared to be excellent by all who partook of it. To my 
palate, its taste was what I can imagine would result from mingling 
the flavor of pig and lamb, and I did not hesitate to make my dinner 
of it, in spite of some qualms at the first mouthful. I must confess, 
when I reflected, the puppy now trussed up before us might have 
been the affectionate, and frolicksome companion of some Hawaiian 
fair — they all have pet pigs or puppies- — I felt as if dog-eating were 
only a low grade of cannibalism. What! eat Poor Ponto? — 

" —the poor dog, in life the firmest friend. 



The first to welcome, foremost to defend, 
Whose honest heart is still his master's own, 
Who labors, fights, hves, breathes for him alone, 
Unhonored falls, unnoticed all his worth, 
Denied in heaven the soul he held on earth — " 

However, the edible dog is not one of your common curs, but a dainty 
animal, fed exclusively on vegetables, chiefly taro in the form of poe, 
and at the the age of two years, is considered a dish wherewith to 



464 MISSIONARIES. 

regale royalty. Indeed, Kauikeaouli, I suspect, would be always well 
satisfied to see it before him, in spite of the assertion of Dr. Kidd, that 
" it is worthy of consideration that the flesh of those animals whose 
living services we stand hourly in need, as the liorse and the dog, are 
so unpalatable that we are not tempted to eat them unless in cases of 
dreadful necessity."* Has the doctor ever assisted at a luaii, or as- 
sociated with the trappers upon the prairies of the ' far west?' 

The feast won through its phases^ toasts and healths were drunk, 
and about eight o'clock P. M., the field was left in possession of some 
of my Tom-Dick-and-Harry platter companions, who had gradually 
imbibed an unusual degree of self-esteem, and were now kicking up 
their heels to the notes of a gigging fiddle and a crack-voiced clario- 
net, like so many *' jolly tars capering ashore.'' 

We were complimented by this mark of attention from the resi- 
dents, many of whom must have done violence to their own feelings 
in being present. 



CHAPTER XLIIL 

SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 

October, 1836, 

Since the arrival of the missionaries in 1820, and the publication 
of " Stewart's Residence," the Hawaiian Islands have attracted a 
large share of public attention. Various accounts have been given 
to the world, but they have all been ex jyarte statements. The 
friends of the missionaries have drawn overwrought pictures of the 
prosperity and prospects of the islands^ while, on the other hand, 
their opponents charge them with the tardy advancement of the 

* "On the Adaptation of external Nature to the Physical Condition of Man." 
Bridgewater Treatise. 



MISSIONARIES. 465 

Islanders in social and civil knowledge. Both parties have based their 
reports on partial facts, and colored them to suit their own views, 
without that strict observance of full accuracy which is desirable. 

In 1831, a former missionary, Mr. Stewart, published an account 
Df a visit to the islands bj the U. S. ship Vincennes, which seems to 
be rather a work of the imagination than a faithful description. All 
who are acquainted with the author fully acquit him of any intention 
to deceive, and attribute the unfaithful, though agreeable picture, 
which his work leaves upon the mind of the reader, to a happy fa- 
cility of writing and perceiving beauties in common place things, for 
which he is distinguished. Though we are all ready to accord our 
praise to the pleasing fictions of a novelist, we expect rigid accuracy 
from the pen of the divine, and are not disposed to allow him to en- 
velop facts in the glowing language of a poetic fancy. Mr. Stewart 
talks of fashionable drives; of Windsor uniforms; of the advance of 
civilization, of the successful eiForts of the missionaries, and defends 
his friend, Mr, Bingham, from an attack made upon him by Captain 
Kotzebue, in his " New Voyage round the v/orld."' The missiona- 
ries are now sensibly feeling the injurious efl'ects of the overpraise of 
this pleasant work. The " Visit to the South Seas " was followed 
by the " Cruise of the Potomac, by J. N. Meynolds," which is charged 
with various trilling inaccuracies of description, and sweeping cen- 
sure of the missionaries, as well as of the foreign residents of Hono- 
lulu. Mr. Warriner's account of the same cruise has passed almost 
unnoticed. 

Whether I shall be successful in conveying a clear and correct 
idea to the reader of the state of these islands I cannot decide; but 
I feel an honesty of purpose in making the attempt, and will not de- 
sist in the middle of the operation in pity for the cries of the patient. 
The pain necessarily inflicted, in bringing to light the latent disease 
of the system, is often requisite to its removal, without which we can- 
not hope to secure a robust and flourishing state of health. 

From the time of their arrival, the missionaries have pursued one 
course and one policy, the propriety and expediency of which have 
been much questioned. .Their plan was to impart to the islanders a 
knowledge of the doctrines of their own sect, which the islanders 
were, in a measure, prepared to receive, because they had, of them- 
selves, thrown down the gods, and abandoned the religion of their 
fathers in 1819. With this view primary schools were established, 
at which adults and children, of every age and sex, almost constantly 
attended^ They were taught to write, to sing religious songs, and 
59 



466 MISSIONARIES. 

read tracts and portions of scripture as fast as translated. The num- 
ber of the schools rapidly increased, and children were more attended 
toj and within about two years a high school has been established, 
from which I have seen an atlas, engraved on copper, of a very re- 
spectable character. During the first ten years of the mission, reli- 
gious instruction alone was given; but since, arithmetic, geography, 
and some other branches have been added to the studies. Not less 
than one-fifth of the time is now occupied in the study and practice 
of *' sacred harmony." Indeed, the whole system of instruction is 
so entirely religious in its nature, and so entirely appropriated to the 
performance of Calvinistic worship, that, thus far, it has proved of 
less social advantage to the nation than might have been expected. 

To the missionaries is due the credit of reducing the language to 
writing, and of translating both the Old and New Testaments, tv/enty 
thousand copies of which are now in circulation, making one copy 
for everjjive;lndividuals of the population. A gazette, neatly printed 
at the mission press, is published, under the title of " Ke Kumu 
Hawaii, — the Monitor or Teacher. Eour thousand copies are cir- 
culated, each receiver paying something, though there is no stated 
subscription price. Its pages are filled with extracts from the scrip- 
tures, scraps of natural history, &c., w^ell calculated to interest those 
for whom it is intended. 

The following report of schools in 1835, is found in one of the num- 
bers. 



Ht 


ONOLULU, 1835. 


Teachers, 


45 




TAdult male, 
J§ . « female, 
s Male children, 

^.Female do. 




194 




404 




55 




27 


Number of readers. 




680 


** Arithmetic, 




448 


" Writing, 




405 


" Primer, 




258 



,680 



Total number of pupils, 680 

At present the mission consists of fifty-eight individuals, exclu- 
sive of children. The missionaries are placed in a position entirely 
above the every-day concerns of the world, and have only to declare 



MISSIONARIES. 467 

their wants to a fiscal agent of the Board of Missions to have them 
supplied. In this respect they are entirely independent, and could 
not be more so, had they fortunes at command. This arrangement is 
defective, because it abstracts them too much from the world. Would 
it not be more politic to pay them stated salaries, and thus impose 
upon them the care of providing for themselves? The expense of 
the mission might be thus increased, but its object would be better 
answered I because the missionaries, by dealing with the world, would 
feel more sensibly the interests of the social community in which 
they are placed, and meet with frequent opportunities of correcting 
evils which must now pass unnoticed. I would not give them sala- 
ries so large that the business of a missionary should become a pro- 
fitable profession; but their stipend should be sufficient to enable 
them to possess a small surplus at the end of the year, to be appro- 
priated to the education of their children, instead of turning them, 
in infancy almost, as must often be the case under the present sys- 
tem, beggars upon the world, dependent upon its cliarities. No man 
would willingly place his children in such a predicament. And it 
is too much to ask any man to do, for his mere daily bread, and the 
prospective benefit of yet unborn savages. Those who know the ar- 
duous life of the missionary, tlie perils to which he is often exposed, 
subjected frequently to scornful vituperation and misrepresentation, 
will not deny him a trifling reward, which may enable him to fulfil 
his duty towards his little ones. It should not be put upon the mis- 
sionary to gratify the ambition of outdoing each other in sustaining 
privations; rather let him feel gratified with displaying the greatest 
comfort, or even luxury, if you will, with the most moderate means, 
and thus become an example to the society wherein he is " the ob- 
served of ali observers," teaching one of the social advantages of the 
religion he labors to inculcate. *' Cosa Apostolica es misionar," 
says one of the fathers of the Roman church;-—"' Cosa Apostolica es 
misionar, recibiendo el sustento mendigando; mas tambien lo es mi- 
sionar, proveyendose a si, y a los suyos con el trabajo de sus proprias 
manos, sin mendigar."* 

Under the present system, from conscientious motives, many mis- 
sionaries, particularly valetudinarian females, live in want of articles 

* " To serve as a missionary, depending upon alms for sustenance is an apos- 
tolic thing; but it is likewise an apostolic thing for one to serve as a missionary^' 
providing for himself and those depending upon him by the labor of his own 
hands, without begging alms. 

Er Padue Miguel Venegas." 



468 MISSIONARIES. 

absolutely necessary to their comfort, rather than apply for them. 
The houses of these people present only those appliances, which are 
common in the houses of the industrious day laborer; and in many 
instances their food is of the poorest kind. 

The missionaries inhibit their children from acquiring the Haw- 
aiian language, because, it is asserted, they can acquire no useful 
ideas from the natives, while they would be exposed to the injurious ef- 
fects of constantly hearing grossness of expression. As yet I have 
heard of no missionary's children acting as assistant teachers in the 
schools. At an early age they are sent to the United States for 
education; but none have ever returned. 

The labors of the missionaries consist exclusively in preaching the 
gospel, and teaching schools. They are distributed at fifteen sta- 
tions, as follows: three on the island of Kauai; four on Oahu; oneon 
Molokai; three on Maui, and four on Hawaii. The mission consists 
at present of twenty-eight men, and thirty women from the United 
States. Their maintenance is estimated at five hundred dollars an- 
nually for each family, or $15,000 in the aggregate. Besides this, 
the buildings, the printing, medical and school departments, cost an 
additional sum of about $16,000. To this may be added about 
$4,000 annually, for the support of the high school at Lahainaluna: 
so that the entire annual expense of the Sandwich Island mission 
will not be less than $35,000. 

At the head of the schools is that at Lahainaluna, of which a very 
graphic description, by its principal, the Rev. Lorrin Andrews, may 
be found in the appendix of the " Twenty-sixth Annual Report of 
the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions." (Bos- 
ton, 1835.) Mr. Andrews appears to be a man of unquestionable 
and untiring benevolence, and possessed of practical good sense. He 
has discovered that, in general, the art of reading and writing was 
among the islanders merely mechanical, and that they have not 
yet learned to look upon it, only as a means of acquiring knowledge. 
He has recognised the great principle, that men must doubt and 
think for themselves before they can become learned; and acts upon 
it, as may be seen in the report above referred to. 

This high school was first formed under a shed, and afterwards 
taught by Mr. Andrews beneath the canopy of heaven, unsheltered 
from the blazing rays of a tropical sun for some time, while the school 
house was yet incomplete. It was begun in 1831, but the foundation 
of the school was not securely laid before 1834. 

The high school of Lahainaluna is on the island of Maui, and con- 



MISSlONARIi:,J). 



469 



tained, in 1835, one hundred and twenty-three pupils. There are 
three missionaries employed as teachers, one as a printer to the esta- 
blishment, besides an artisan, (not a missionary,) who receives a 
salary as superintendent of the manual labor department. Free in- 
quiry is encouraged among the pupils. The branches of education 
at present attended to, are arithmetic, mental and written, geometry, 
trigonometry, modern and ancient geography, Scripture chronology, 
and church history. Some of the pupils attend to composition, 
grammar, engraving on copper, and other useful arts. 

At the station schools taught by the ladies and gentlemen of the 
mission, there are two thousand one hundred and thirty-five pupilsi 
of which number, five hundred and thirty-five, more than one-fourth, 
are adults. They receive instruction in the first principles of mo- 
rality and religion, reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, natural 
history and psalmody. For those who are learning to sing, a small 
work of three hundred and sixty pages, containing a gamut, hymns 
and tunes, has been recently published. 

The missionaries instruct six thousand eight hundred and forty 
Sabbath school pupils. In these. Scripture history, and Christian 
doctrines and duties are carefully inculcated, and in a more familiar 
manner than can be done by ordinary preaching. Most of the mis- 
sionaries attend individually to three schools, and some of them meet 
bible classes on a week day. 

In every district of the Sandwich Islands, both adults and minors, 
in great numbers, receive instruction by the aid of native teachers, 
in reading, writing, and the first principles of religion, as expressed 
in catechisms, tracts, &c. Mr. Bingham, to whom I am indebted 
for most of my information in relation to the mission, tells me, that 
the adults do not probably spend more than four hours a week under 
the eye of their teachers. Those of the native teachers, who are 
diligent and faithful, receive a trifling compensation from the mis- 
sion; but their support is mainly derived from the chiefs or head- 
men. 

The adults, generally, who attend school, are not expected to do 
less in their respective avocations on this account. The primary 
object of the adult schools taught by natives, is to render the mis- 
sionary publications, particularly the Scriptures, available to them, 
by imparting to them the art of reading. Mr. Bingham estimates, 
that twenty to twenty-five thousand, or about one-fifth of the whole 
population, give some attention to schools. 

Where missionaries preach, an aggregate number of from fifteen 



470 MISSIONARIES. 

to twenty thousand Hawaiians attend regularly. The largest con- 
gregation is at Honolulu, where the average attendance is about two 
thousand. Since 1825, the number admitted into the church, is one 
thousand and seventy-eight| of which two hundred and sixty-six be- 
long to Honolulu. 

As collateral with the instruction communicated by the above 
system, the missionaries have endeavored to encourage the people in 
acquiting some of the mechanic arts; as those of the carpenter, 
mason, turner, tailor, braider of hats, &c. A few have been taught 
to spin, knit, and weave. 

The printing establishment of the mission is well conducted. The 
whole business of printing, composing, pressing, folding, binding, i& 
performed by natives. The number generally employed is thirty. 
The nature and extent of their publications may be found in the 
twenty-sixth annual report already referred to. The mechanical 
execution of those works which I saw here, is equal to what is termed 
" common work," in the United States. 

There is also at Honolulu, a charity school for the instruction of 
half-caste children, supported by donations from foreign resi<lents.. 
I visited it, and one of the mission schools; and I am sorry to say I 
was disappointed, not that there was any unusual deficiency on the 
part of the teachers or pupils; but, because I had formed an over es- 
timate of them from reading various reports of their condition. 
They are probably equal to the commonest primary schools in the 
United States. 

I have thought these details will be interesting to those benevolent in- 
dividuals in our country, who contribute $35,000 annually, for the pur- 
pose of diffusing general and christian knowledge to the inhabitants of 
the Sandwich Islands,and perhaps all maybe satisfied, that every effort 
is made to disburse this money in the most advantageous manner for 
attaining the objects of the missionary society and its friends. But, 
with proper deference to older and wiser heads, I believe a strict in- 
vestigation would show, that the same means might be made to achieve 
greater ends — I mean in temporal affairs; for the government of the 
islands is, in all respects, the same that it was the day on which the 
missionaries landed. 

Exclusive of Roman Catholics, Quakers, and Jews, the number of 
religious ministers or preachers in the United States, is stated, in a 
volume entitled "Protestant Jesuitism," at 12,670 of various sects. 
Let us estimate the ministers of all denominations at 14,000, in the 
United States, and the population at 14,000,000, and we have one 



EXPULSION OF THE CATHOLICS. 471 

teacher of religion for every fourteen thousand of our population; 
while in the Sandwich Islands, there are twenty-eight preachers, in 
a population of 108,393, or one to each number of 3,871 individuals, 
including infants. Yet the missionaries have made requisition for 13 
more, besides 21 lay teachers, and two physicians; which, on the most 
moderate estimate, will add ten thousand dollars to the annual expense. 

If forty of these sixty-four teachers of religious doctrine and elemen- 
tary education were skilful mechanics, and agriculturists, possessed 
of good hard sense, a moderate capital and the generous benevolence 
of the missionary, they would do more in ten years, towards amelio- 
rating the condition of the islanders, by teaching their several arts, 
by their moral deportment, and the example of the thrift which must 
crown their industry, than an army of twenty thousand preachers, 
devoted exclusively to religious pursuits, could possibly effect in dou- 
ble the time. It is questionable whether the doctrine of Christianity 
alone is capable of leading a barbarous people to a condition which 
we might call civilization. The Hawaiians, as a nation, may be said 
to be christianized, but those who have visited the islands will hardly 
assert they are also civilized; and I doubt whether they ever will be 
under the present system. The rapidity of their civilization depends 
upon their improvement, in agriculture, the mechanic arts, and in po- 
litical government, which will furnish in abundance the sources of 
commerce, the great civilizer of mankind; and when religion is added 
to chasten all, the condition of the people will be such as to enable 
them to enjoy the greatest possible happiness in this world, while it 
promises no less in that which is to come. 

Those who are interested in the Sandwich Island mission, have 
heard, that some Roman Catholic christians attempted to establish a 
mission of their sect at the islands, and were expelled, as has been 
asserted, by the advice of those missionaries already there, which 
charge they pronounce to be untrue. I would let this question sleep, 
did I not feel that the public, and the friends of foreign missions who 
pay for their support, have a right to know the history of the matter, 
drawn from the most authentic sources on the spot. 

Three missionaries, Mr. Batchelot, from France, Mr. Short, from 
Ireland, and Mr. Murphy, from the Isle of France, arrived at Oahu, 
with the purpose of establishing a Roman Catholic mission; and while 
they remained, they labored to this end, and gained numerous follow- 
ers. The chiefs observed, their forms of worship differed from those 
of theCalvinistic christians already settled there, and applied to them 
to know who were of the true religion. As a matter of course, they 



472 EXPULSION OF THE CATHOLICS. 

were informed the Calvinists were the true worshippers. " Then/'* said 
the chiefs, " these new comers must go awaj, because we do not want 
two religions, and we are satisfied with our old teachers." *' About 
this time," says a leading member of the mission, in a letter to me, 
replying to several questions in relation to the mission, " About this 
time the people were reminded of the sanguinary character of the 
power that had attempted to exterminate protestants by the bayonet, 
the inquisition and fire," and it was thus insinuated, that the course 
of the Roman Catholics, should they remain, would be likely to be 
marked by blood. But applications of this nature were made by " se- 
veral English gentlemen^" whether these were interested in the protes- 
tant mission is not stated. " A few historical facts, such as are al- 
luded to in a letter, addressed by Dr. Jones King, of Greece, to his 
friends in Palestine, as reasons why he could not be a Roman Ca- 
tholic, were not very favorable recommendations of the true sons of 
Rome, as propagators o^ the benevolent and pacific gospel of graced 
This letter, which, to use the expression of one of the mission, ar- 
rived at Oahu, * just in the nick of time,' was speedily translated, 
printed and circulated amongst the chiefs and people. 

Under the excitement, thus produced, upon their fallow minds, the 
chiefs imperatively ordered the Roman Catholics to leave the islands. 
They replied, that they were ready to go, but the means of departure 
were not at hand. Under these circumstances, the chiefs fitted out 
a vessel, put the three obnoxious missionaries on board, and ordered 
the commander to land them at the nearest Roman Catholic port. 
This was San Pedro, on the coast of California, a miserable waste of 
sand, many leagues distant from any considerable population. During 
the voyage, they were so well treated by the captain, that they pre- 
ferred no complaint against him. 

Several of their converts were seized and imprisoned in the fort, 
" not for opinion's sake, but because when ordered to cease worship- 
ping according to the precepts of the Roman church, they refused to 
obey, and were therefore punished for insubordination and disrespect 
to their chiefs." Such was the explanation offered, when the pro- 
testant missionaries declared, that it was improper to punish or per- 
secute men on account of the religious opinion they might entertain. 

The above is the substance of the history of the expulsion of the 
Roman Catholic missionaries. Were the protestants instrumental 
in their expulsion? The missionaries positively declare, that they 
never advised it directly, or had any direct agency in it. But 
a leading member of the mission told me, he had no doubt, but 



EXPULSION OF THE CATHOLICS. 473 

the answers which he gave to questions on the subject by the chiefs, 
had verj considerable influence upon their determination. From all 
the information I was able to collect upon this subject, it is clear to 
my mind, that the missionaries embraced every opportunity to state 
the cruelties of the religious wars of by-gone days, and present the 
Roman Catholics in the hideous aspect in which they themselves view 
them, and, carefully abstaiiiing from a declaration of what must have 
been their secret wishes, pursued the laisser alter sy^em of policy, 
which finally resulted in the expulsion of the catholics. 

The protestants, not only those connected with this mission nearly 
or remotely, but also many in the United States, and Europe, regard 
all those of the Roman faith with feelings of reproach, or, at best, 
with a sort of contemptuous pity. On one occasion at Oahu, hearing 
a lady express herself of the catholics, in terms of horror, I asked, 
*' How do you know, madam, that you are not speaking in the pre- 
sence of a Roman Catholic?" 

•*0h! I am sure, I am notj for no sensible man can be a Roman 
Catholic?" 

In addition to this instance of prejudice, I beg to quote the follow- 
ing passages from the letter already referred to. 

" They (the Catholics) were regarded by the people as French wor- 
shippers of images, and servants of the Pope of Rome, and not pro- 
pagators of the true gospel." Whence did the islanders, who derive 
their religious information entirely from the missionaries, obtain such 
a notion, if not from their protestant teachers? Whence could they 
learn any thing of France or Frenchmen, of Rome, of her Pontifif, 
places and people, they never before had occasion to hear of, except 
from the same source? 

•' We could not condemn the rulers for exercising a natural and 
just right, in excluding unwelcome strangers, where they had reason 
to suspect their pursuits would prove a national calamity. Nor could 
we honestly recommend the introduction of Romanism, or any other 
system which authorizes and requires punishment to be inflicted by 
the civil power on subjects for any religious opinions they may hold, 
and which those in power claim the right to pronounce heresy." 

I should be glad to be informed where such a system exists. Do 
the Romanists in France, in Great Britain, in Spain, or Mexico, or in 
any one of the Roman Catholic countries of South America, " autho- 
rize and require " of their " respective governments," punishment 
to be inflicted by the civil power on the subjects for any religious 
opinions they may hold?" 
60 



474 MISSIONARIES. 

" We cannot, of course, invite or welcome any who teach intole- 
rance and persecution as a sine qua non to salvation; nor any who 
are sworn to aim at the subversion of every power that does not bow 
to Rome." Is it not melancholy that a teacher of the enlightened 
truths of Christianity should believe such an assertion to be true, 
even after making it himself? This short sentence demonstrates how 
very far behind the knowledge and spirit of the age the gentleman is, 
and shows his unfitness, on this account, to be a leader in the councils 
of people just emerging from barbarism. 

*' But we hold the rights of conscience inviolable, as protestants, 
and as believers in the completeness and sufficiency of the Bible as 
our guide. On this rock we take our stand, believing it to be im- 
moveable. Let the people be well taught to read and love and obey 
the Bible, then all is well, all is safe. The Lion of Romanism would 
then eat straw like the ox, and no longer war for prey, or find delight 
in blood. Let the Bible be every where known and followed, and 
it is of little consequence who publishes it!'' 

Thus speaks a distinguished leader of the mission, who denies having 
interfered or told the chiefs to expel the catholics! I am convinced, 
that the missionaries were the cause of the expulsion of the three 
Roman catholics named; and I think, that few persons who have fol- 
lowed me thus far, can fail to arrive at a similar conclusion. Yet 
at the moment of finding them guilty of this charge, I believe they 
pursued a wise and justifiable policy, because the introduction of 
various religious sects might have induced the islanders, not much 
skilled in polemics, to reject Christianity altogether.* 

After comparing the state of the islands, as it was twenty years 
ago, with their present condition, it will be generally acknowledged 
that the missionaries have exercised a very beneficial influence upon 
the Havvaiians. They may now be called a christian nation. There 
is, however, I am told, one chief on the island of Oahu, who still ad- 
heres to the idols and worship of former times. The faults of the 
missionaries are those of omission, and not of commission. They 
have christianized without civilizing the natives. In fear of popular 
opinion, they stood aloof, and have allowed the rulers to continue as 
ignorant of the art of government as they were on the day of their 
arrival. They overlook the fact, that the Bible neither teaclies po- 
litical economy nor agriculture. Nor have they ever considered any 

• A letter, dated 5th of May, 1837, informs me, that the same catholic missionaries 
were again at Honolulu, but under orders from the chiefs to depart. 



MISSIONARIES. 475 

question in regard to its expediency; governed, perhaps, under the 
erroneous idea, that their calling required them to forbear all inter- 
ference that did not tend to religious teaching; or, they may have 
stood aloof under the fear of being accused of ambition to secure to 
themselves political importance and influence in the nation. But I 
never could suspect them of designs of this nature. 

I regret to speak of the missionaries in any other than terms of 
most unqualified respect and praise; and if my remarks fall harshly, 
I have the consolation of feeling, they are uttered with no purpose of 
Vi'ounding, but because I believe them to be true, and because 1 be- 
lieve the truth being told, may have a bearing upon the prospective 
^ood of the islands. 

The missionaries stationed at the Sandv^^ich Islands as a class, 
are inferior to all those whom it has been our fortune to meet at 
other stations during the cruise. Many of them are far behind the 
age in which they live, deficient in general knowledge, and I think I 
can trace in them more of the lineaments of the Mucklewraths and 
Poundtexts of by-gone days, than is desirable in divines of the 
nineteenth century. Belonging to a sect, many of whose members, 
by some unusual combination of circumstances, have been made to 
reflect and consequently change their manner of life suddenly, they 
have quitted their workshops to expound the scriptures; fancying all to 
be as bad as they themselves were previous to conversion, they go 
zealously to the work, and, feeling the deep importance of their sub- 
ject, deal damnation and destruction, in a peculiar slang, to all whose 
opinions and course of life differ from their own. This is no sketch 
of fancy; and we can only lament, there is no power to shield the 
pulpit from the vulgar spoutings of unlettered ignorance. It is heard 
in the United States, and I have no doubt, but the "Board of Com- 
missioners for Foreign Missions " sends abroad the best they have at 
command. In some rare instances, we find combined in the person 
of the missionary polished manners, knowledge of the world, unim- 
peachable piety, and a mind firm in solid learning, and graced by- 
various acquisitions of elegant literature. But it unfortunatelj^ hap- 
pens, that such men have generally held the subordinate and least 
distinguished places in the missions, doomed to be ruled by the ma- 
jority, and labor in the detail of systems which their intelligence will 
not approve. I might mention such a one, but I must not individu- 
alize. 

However useful strong preachers may be in producing strong effects 
upon vulgar minds, they are certainly not better adapted than those 



476 



MISSIONARIES. 



of refined and elegant scholarship, to teach an ignorant people the 
complicated science of social government. 

Mr. Reynolds, in the *' Voyage of the Potomac," has given a hymn 
in the Hawaiian language, with an English version, which he states 
to be a translation of the celebrated missionary hymn by Bishop He- 
ber. Since the publication of Mr. Reynolds' work, the hymn has 
been printed at the mission press, as follows: — 

HAWAIIAN MISSIONARY HYMN. 



AK IMITATIOIir OF BISHOP HEBEIl. 



Aloha ko na mauna, 
I paa mau i ka hau, 
A me ko Aitiopa, 
Ko Inia me Makao, 
Na muliwai kahiko, 
Na moku, na papu^ 
Kii mai ko laila pio, 
I ola no lakou. 

Auwe na lahuiaina 

na akua e ! 

Ka make o na aina 

1 kulou i ke kii! 
Ko Aferika joow/iV 
Ko Asia naaupo! 
Ko MahomedajDw/e/ 
Ko Roma hewa hou! 

Pehea la ke hoole 
Kakoii i aoia mai 
1 kanaka pouli, 
la lama e ola'i ? — 
Ke Ola! O ke Ola! 
Hoolaha ae kakou, 
I lohe i ka Mesia, 
A e hull ko ke ao. 

E lawe e na makani, 
I kana olelo mau; 
I uhi kona nani 
1 ka honua a pau — 
E hoi hou mai ka Alana, 
I make no makou, 
Ka Moi ola mana, 
Ke Lii pomaikai mau. 



Compassion for the people, 
Of mountains bound with frost, 
The tribes of Ethiopia, 
India and China's* coast, 
And those of ancient rivers. 
And all the isles and plains. 
Whose captives seek our succor. 
To free them from their chains. 

Alas, for the vast reg-ions, 
"Which strang-e gods still retain! 
The ruin of the nations 
That bow to idols vain! 
For Africa's deep darkness! 
And Asia's moral gloom.' 
The worship of Mohammed! 
The dire relapse of Rome! 

How then, shall we, enlightened. 
Ungratefully deny. 
To men who are benighted, 
The torch of Life's blessed ray? — 
Salvation! O Salvation! 
We'll publish all abroad. 
That hearing of Messiah, 
The world may turn to God. 

Far, bear ye winds the story 
OfHis Eternal truth; 
That soon Jehovah's glory 
May cover all the earth — 
Return, our great Oblation, 
That once for us, was slain. 
The risen, mighty Sovereign, 
For ever blest, to reign. 



SANDWICH ISLANDS. 477 

The insertion of the above hymn will serve as a specimen of the 
language, and, at the same time, to disprove the charge of plagiarism 
indir-ectlj alleged against the missionaries in the faulty version pub- 
lished in the work referred to. 

The views of the missionaries and foreign residents at Honolulu, 
on subjects of worldly interest, are very much at variance^ and there 
are several of the latter, (whbse opinions, however, are worthy of no 
respect,) who speak in the most reproachful terms of these christian 
teachers. Yet, in spite of all the complaints against them, the mis- 
sionaries should be cherished, because they aim at the well being of 
the islands, both temporally and eternally, and if they draw the re- 
strictive cord tbo tight, it is not through malicious intent. 

The trading community, in the past few years, has increased ra- 
pidly, both in number and respectability; and, for its extent, con- 
tains comparatively few disreputable people. We had every reason 
to be gratified by the hospitality and kindness extended us while 
here by all parties, and did not leave without regret. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 

October, 1836. 

The islands, named in honor of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, 
by their discoverer, Captain Cook, stretch in a north-westerly and 
south-easterly direction, and lie between 18° 50' and 22° 20' of north 
latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15' longitude west from 
Greenwich. Though first revealed to the christian world by Cap- 
tain Cook, in 1778, it is more than probable they were known to the 
Spaniards, who traversed the Pacific, between the Philippines and 
Acapulco, long before that period; and we are told that a Spaniard, 
Juan Gaytan, visited them in the year 1600, and named them Islas 
de la Mesa; he describes them as situated in about the twentieth de- 
gree of north latitude, and about one thousand leagues west of the 



478 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 

meriflian of San Blasj* and if we bear in mind the imperfect state of 
navigation at that period, we must conclude the •' Tslas de la Mesa'^ 
and the Sandwich Islands to be one and the same. Besides, the 
islanders have a tradition of vessels having been wrecked upon their 
shores, previous to the arrival of Captain Cook, and from the descrip- 
tion thej give of the costume, and other particulars relating to the 
strangers thus thrown among them, they could have been no other 
than Europeans. Nor is it probable that ships should sail directly 
in their track, for two hundred years, without falling in with them. 
It is pretty satisfactorily ascertained, that Japanese junks were more 
than once stranded, not only upon the Sandwich Islands, but also on 
the coast of California; and we have one very recent instance in the 
case of the Japanese at present residing with the Rev. Mr, GutzlafF, 
at Macao. Have these facts any bearing upon the very interesting 
question of the origin of the aboriginal inhabitants of the islands, and 
of America? 

The islands are ten in number, and are larger than the Society, or 
any other group of islands in the Pacific Ocean. They are all, un- 
questionably, of volcanic origin. The island of Hawaii contains the 
largest active crater in the world; the circumference of which, ac- 
cording to the estimate of Mr. Ellis, (Polynesian Researches,) is not 
less than six miles. The highest points on Hawaii, as recently de- 
termined by Mr. Daniel Douglas, (who was lately killed by falling 
into a bullock pit,) are Mouna Kea and Mouna Roa; the former is 
13,764, and the latter 13,430 feet above the level of the sea. Though 
earthquakes are here common, they are very rarely severe. 

Of the ten islands, seven are inhabited. In 1836, their population 
was as follows: — 

Hawaii, 39,193 

Oahu, 27,798 

Maui, 24,195 

Kauai, or Atui, -' - 9,927 

MOLOKAI, - - 6,000 

Lanai, - 1,200 

Kahoolawe, 80 

Total population of Sandwich Isles in 1836, - 108,393 
Total population in 1832, .... 129,814 



Decrease in four years, ----- 21,421 
• Noticias de la provincia de Californias, en tres cartas de un Sacerdote Reli- 



POPULATION. 479 

The relative number of births and deaths may be estimated from 
the following statements, copied from the pages of the "Ke Kumu 
Ha\^taii," 

In the province, or district, of Wailua (Oahu) the deaths for the 
year ending July, 1835, were 136, and the births 45. The popula- 
tion of this district was. 

In 1831, 2,640 

In 1835, 2,415 



Decrease in 4 years, - - - 225 

The marriages in this district, according to the christian form, in 
1834, were 29; and in the whole group of islands 1,125. In 1835, 
the missionaries, at all the stations collectively, solemnized 1,590 
marriages. These are exclusive of those by the Rev. I. Diell, the 
seamen's chaplain, who marries, annually, a few foreigners to native 
women. In some cases the ceremony is performed by the chiefs. 

In the district of Eva (Oahu) the population was. 

In 1831, - - - - = - 4,015 
In 1835, - - - - - - 3,423 



Decrease in four years, - - 592 

In the district of Waianae, (Oahu,) the population was. 

In 1831, ...... 1,868 

In 1835, - 1,654 



Decrease in four years, - - 214 

In the district of Kauai, (Kauai,) the deaths in the year 1835 were 
164, and the births 80, in a population of 8,934. 

In the district of Kohala, (Hawaii,) the population was 

In 1832, -....- 8,679 
In 1836, 6,175 



Decrease in four years, - - 2,504 

gioso, Hijo del convento de Predicadores de Valencia, a un Amigo Suyo — Va- 
lencia, 1794. 

The ancient Spanish charts describe islands in the same latitude, but different 
longitude, which are called UUoa, Desgraciada, Mira, and Monge. See, Esta^ 
blecimientos Ultramarinos. 



480 CAUSES OF DEPOPULATION. 

la the district of Hamakua, (Hawaii,) the population was. 

In 1832, ---.-. 4,786' 
In 1836, - - - - - - 4,015 



Decrease in four yeare, - - 771 

From these data, allowing for the inaccuracy to which they are li- 
able, we may estimate, that the births are to the deaths as one to 
two, and the decrease of the total population at the rate of six per 
centum in four years, or one and a half per cent, per annum. The 
decrease does not appear to be confined to one island or to one dis- 
trict, but to prevail, pretty equally, in the whole group. 

If these data be correct, and we have every reason to believe they 
are, and no means be taken to arrest this alarming decrease, it is 
clear, the Sandwich islands, in the course of time, must be entirely 
depopulated, though centuries must elapse before the last man of the 
nation expires. 

We naturally ask what are the causes of this decrease of popula- 
tion, in a salubrious climate, where the people have never been af- 
flicted by any desolating epidemic? It is difficult, if not impossible,, 
to give a definite answer to this question, though we may offer some- 
thing which may assist in its solution. 

It is clear, that this decrease is not owing to any one cause, and 
may, therefore, be attributed, with more propriety, to tlie joint ef- 
fects of several causes. Infanticide, intemperance, bad li^'ing, change 
in social habits, the state of political oppression, and, perhaps, we 
may add, civilization; for it has been remarked that savage tribes 
fall before the march of improvement, in spite of every caution in 
feeding and lodging. Every one of these causes must operate upon 
the physical condition, and consequently affect production. 

It is not doubted, that the population has been decreasing ever 
since the discovery of the islands by Captain Cook; and perhaps at 
a more rapid rate, than since the introduction of Christianity; though 
we have no positive data by which to verify such a supposition. 
Previous to the establishment of the missionaries in the islands, 
added to tlie causes of depopulation already named, were human 
sacrifices to the gods, and cruel and exterminating wars; and child- 
murder was practised to a great extent. As far as these were con- 
cerned in the depopulation, the efforts of the missionaries, we must 
suppose, would positively check it. 

Infanticide was perpetrated upon infants from the fourth or fifth 



INFANTICIDE. 481 

month of utero-gestation, until they had attained the age of one or 
even two years. The causes alleged by the mother for this unchris- 
tian-act, were either the trouble of nursing, or that they were annoyed 
by their offspring's cries. If a mother found her infant fretful, in- 
stead of soothing it with a mother's fond and tender caress, she forced 
a piece of tapa-cloth into its throat to stifle complaint, and then 
buried it alive, not unfrequently within the house, and close to the 
mat upon which she slept. The act was committed with indif- 
ference and without any hesitation or misgiving.* How can we re- 
concile to these facts, the notion that love of offspring is innate and 
necessary to the human breast.? The love for children results from 
the education of the parents in the first place, and from their inti- 
mate association with them in the second. From longer and closer 
intimacy with her children, the love of the mother is much more 
tender and enduring than that of the father, and increases with their 
age. Hence it is, the death of an infant a few days old, is a trifling 
loss to the parent, when compared with that of a prattling child, or 
of a youth just verging into maturity. In this way, too, we may 
account for the fact, that fathers often manifest a total indifference 
towards illegitimate offspring. 

Infanticide is still practised, but not to the same extent as for- 
merly, nor is the deed committed openly. At the imminent peril of 
the mother, children are now destroyed about the fourth or fifth 
month of utero-gestation, almost entirely in cases of illegitimacy, 
and but very rarely after birth. Infanticide has been made a crime 
by the civil lawj and it is to be hoped, that these people will soon 
feel it to be an oflence, equally against social and moral rectitude, as 
well as detrimental to their political condition. 

The history of infanticide in these islands, shows a progress in the 
sense of right and wrong. In their remote time, and until within a few 
years, infanticide was not a crime, nor did it draw reproach or dis- 
approbation upon the mother. Consequently, the life of the child 
was taken, and neither the mother nor any of her friends perceived 
any thing right or wrong in the act, which was followed by no feel- 
ings of remorse, or dread of punishment. The act brought no dis- 
honor, and its memory never excited a pang. Unlike the deluded 
victim of the seducer in civilized life, the Hawaiian mother is never 
haunted by the spirit of her murdered babe. She perpetrates the 
deed, uninterrupted by an agonizing contention of love and honor in 

* Polynesian Researches by Willijim Ellis. Vol. iv. London, 1831* 
61 



482 THE SENSE OF RIGHT AND WRONG. 

her breast.* This sense then, of right and wrong, cannot be innate, 
or it must be very weak, where the mother prefers committing mur- 
der, to bearing the petty anpoyance of a crying child. This sense 
of right and wrong is rather a sense of safety and of danger, and 
i-esults from the love of life and its pleasures, or the instinctive 
movement of a perceptive intelligence towards self-preservation. 
This instinct is common to man and animals. 

" It is an undeniable fact," says M. Cousin, " that when we have 
done right or wrong, when we have obeyed the law of justice or have 
broken it, we judge that we merit reward or punishment. It is, 
moreover, a fact that we do indeed receive reward or punishment: 

1. In the approbation of conscience or in the bitterness of remorse: 

2. In the esteem or censure of our fellow -men, who, themselves 
moral beings, judge also of good and bad as we do, and, like 
us, judge that right and wrong merit reward and punishment^ and 
who do punish and reward according to the nature of our actions, 
sometimes by the moral sentence of their esteem or blame, some- 
times by physical punishments and rewards, which positive laws, 
the legitimate interpreter of the laiv of nature, hold ready for ac- 
tions: 3, And finally, if we raise our thoughts beyond this world, if 
we conceive of God as we ought, not only as the Author of the phy- 
sical world, but as the Father of the moral world, as the very sub- 
stance of good, and of the moral law, we cannot but conceive that 
God ought also to hold ready rewards and punishments for those 
who have fulfilled or broken the law."t 

* She has no thought like this: — 

"Oh! Tu, que sin nacer moriste; 
Confusa union del ser y de la nada, 
Infausta aborto; prole aun mal formado. 
Que del ser y no ser, despojo fuiste; 
Tu que de un crimen vida recibiste, 

Y de otro crimen, muerte accelerada — 
De Amor, obra funesta y desgraciada; 

De Honor victima, cruel, infausta y triste — 
Deja el susto calmar, que me intimida: 
No clames a mi pecho, filicida; 
Dos tyranos juzgaron de tu suerte; 
Amor, contra el Honor, te did la vIda, 

Y Honor, contra el Amor, te da la muerte." 

t Cousin's Elements of Psychology, by C. S. Heniy. 



THE SENSE OF RIGHT AND WRONG. 483 

This sense of right and wrong is not innate, and does not depend 
upon a law of nature; it is rather a sense of safety and of danger, 
and-depends upon, and always lias reference to special codes of law. 
It was in consequence of the special law or injunction not to eat the 
apple, that Adam and Eve felt the sense of wrong and hid themselves 
to avoid the infliction of punishment^ for it is fair to presume, that 
previous to the injunction not to do it, they might have eaten the 
apple without emotion of any kind. There was nothing intrinsically 
wrong in eating the applet it was the law which made it so. It is 
not the sense of wrong that suggests stealth to the thief or murderer, 
but the instinct of self-preservation which teaches him to avoid de- 
tection to escape the punishment of the law. Give him sufficient 
force and take away the law, and he will enact his deeds openly. 
Where there is no law, physical or moral, there can be no such thing 
as merit or demerit^ and of course, no place for reward or punish- 
ment, nor ground for peace of conscience or the pains of remorse. 
Do the Dayaks of Borneo think they are doing wrong when they 
hunt their fellow men to obtain human heads wherewith to court 
their sweethearts? Do the Chinese women feel they are doing wrong 
when they perpetrate infanticide? Does the Turk think he is doing 
wrong when he cozens the Christian? Do cannibals feel they are 
doing wrong when they feed on human flesh? To each and all of 
these questions the answer is, No! And the reason why these acts 
do not bring with them a sense of wrong, is that with those people 
there are no laws, either physical or moral, against them. The same 
was also true of the Sandwich Islanders, in respect to infanticide, 
previous to the institution of the law against it; but since its institu- 
tion, the act of child murder is accompanied by a sense of wrong, or 
rather a sense of danger, a fear of punishmentj and hence it is, the 
deed is no longer committed openly. Indeed, infanticide and adult 
murder, are opposed only in those communities whose intelligence 
has pointed out the principle of common good, and where the pre- 
servation of society and the increase of the population are recognised 
as political desiderata. It is a mistake, to suppose that there is a 
code of moral or physical laws universally applicable to the human 
race in its present condition, to explain the phenomena of human na- 
ture, unless we except that of self-preservation. Ideas of duty, and 
the consciences of men, depend upon education, or upon the man- 
ners and customs of the people amongst whom their first lot or birth 
may be cast. The Hindoo wife perishes upon the same funeral pile 
that consumes the dead body of her husband 5 Mohammedans who 



484 INTEMPERANCE— MODE OF LIFE* 

break the law of their prophet, are as much conscience-stricken, feel 
as much remorse as Christians or believers in other religious creeds, 
when they transgress the rules and precepts of their respective 
faiths. 

It is clear that what M. Cousin states as an 'undeniable fact,' in 
the above quotation, is only partially so; and is only true of christians 
and men who are reared in christian communities. 

But, to return from this digression to the consideration of other 
causes of decrease of the population: Intemperance in diet and the 
abusive use of ardent spirits, which is their first acquisition from in- 
tercourse with christian strangers, affecting as it does, very conside- 
rably, both production and duration, by inducing premature exhaus- 
tion of the vital forces, and consequently a host of active diseases, 
must powerfully oppose the increase of population. The fact is so 
well known, that it requires neither proof nor illustration. 

"When we see the manner in which many of the Hawaiians live, we 
wonder how it is possible for human beings thus fed or rather fasted, 
thus lodged and not clothed, nor sheltered either from sunshine or rain, 
or chilling blasts of the mountain winds; we wonder how they have 
resisted in their childhood, the causes of destruction, amidst which 
they first see the light, and in spite of them not only arrive at adult 
age, but even live to a comfortable senectitude. In the valley of Ma- 
noa, I saw several families residing on spots of earth, sheltered from 
the damp ground and vicissitudes of the weather, by a hovel of mats, 
just large enough for them to crawl into. Yet in this, as in all the 
valleys, there are showers almost daily, and the atmosphere is so cool 
that Europeans find blankets not only bearable but necessary. The 
food of these natives consists almost exclusively of taro, and when 
they occasionally get a little meat or fish, they esteem themselves for- 
tunate. 

A change has taken place in certain customs, which must have in- 
fluenced the physical development of the islanders. I allude to the 
variety of athletic exercises, such as swimming, with or without the 
surf-board, dancing, wrestling, throwing the javalin, &c., all of which 
games, being in opposition to the severe tenets of Calvinism, have 
been suppressed, without the substitution of other pursuits, to fill up 
the time. Whether sinful or not, will depend upon the religious code 
by which they are measured. But let this be as it may, these exer- 
cises and games affect the health and longevity of the people, be- 
cause., being deprived of these sports, they labor only to obtain food, 
which may be two days in the week, and having no mental relaxa- 



SUPPRESSION OF GAMES. 485 

tioti, the remainder of the time is devoted to sleeping, or drinking 
and other vicious practices. It must be borne in mind, that we are 
speaking of people whose blood has always moved beneath a tropic 
sun, from their remotest ancestry to the present time. They cannot 
endure the same uninterrupted and incessant labor as Europeans or 
Americans, without a very much greater wear and tear; and though 
capable of very severe toil and great physical achievement, it is only 
for a short time together, and is generally followed by long periods 
of rest. Within the tropics, the inhabitants require longer periods 
of relaxation, both from mental and physical employment, than in tem- 
perate climates; and there are few who have not heard of the dangers 
which environ those of high latitudes, who reside in, or even visit the 
equatorial regions of the earth. Now, simply desisting from labor 
is not rest; particularly in young subjects; people, to enjoy life, require 
more; they want amusement, without which they flag, the spirits 
droop, disease follows, and they drag on a miserable, misanthropic 
existence till death closes the scene. The practice in the middle and 
northern sections of our country, must not be taken as a rule, for 
there is perhaps no civilized people on earth, with the same opportu- 
nities, who spend so little time in sports and amusements. They 
all fix upon a time to come for enjoyment, which generally arrives 
Vi^hen the vivacity and elasticity of mind and body have already dis- 
appeared, and the organism is no longer sensible to pleasure. 

Would these games have been suppressed had the missionaries ne- 
ver arrived at the islands? It is fair to presume that they would have 
continued in use. Can the missionaries be fairly charged with sup- 
pressing these games? I believe they deny having done so. But they 
write and publicly express their opinions, and state these sports to 
be expressly against the laws of God, and by a succession of reason- 
ing, which may be readily traced, impress upon the minds of the 
chiefs and others, the idea that all who practise them, secure to them- 
selves the displeasure of offended heaven. Then the chiefs from a 
spontaneous benevolence, at once interrupt customs so hazardous to 
their vassals. 

On one occasion in Honolulu, I was present at a soiree where se- 
veral persons of the mission were in company with ten. or eleven la- 
dies, and a number of gentlemen, many of them officers of our little 
squadron. Afewsongs were sung accompanied by the piano. Dancing 
was proposed by some of the young persons, and presently one of the 
officers managed to obtain a violin. The bow was drawn sportively 
across the strings outside of the door, to announce the * glad tidings.' 



4 86 GOVERNMENT. 

The missionaries took the alarm, and, with all regard to decorum, 
took a speedy leave. Of course there was no impropriety in this. 
The party continued dancing till a late hour, and none of us had rea- 
son to complain of the pleasures of the evening. A few days after- 
wards, we were informed through a respectable native woman, who 
speaks English, that one of the missionaries took occasion to allude 
to this party in his sermon, in which he set forth the sin of dancing, 
and rebuked all such pastimes, and concluded by reminding his 
hearers that they never saw the missionaries do such things. It is 
offered as an apology for alluding to the subject from the pulpit, that 
a number of natives were looking on from outside, and the mission- 
aries apprehended their own characters for consistency might suffer 
from being seen in such festive company. 

That the missionaries are correct according to their own con- 
sciences and the tenets of their faith, I presume no one will deny; 
and they of course believe they are acting for the general good; but 
some will think, nevertheless, that such a course is highly ill-judged 
and impolitic, as applied to the social condition and worldly prospe- 
rity of the nation, as well as opposed to the advancement of civil 
and political knowledge among the people and their rulers. 

A glance at the political government of the islands will be suffi- 
cient to show under what oppression the common people live. 

" The Hawaiian system of government," says Mr. Ellis, " whether 
derived from the country whence the first settlers emigrated, or es- 
tablished by warlike chieftains in a subsequent period of their history, 
as an expedient to secure conquests, to command the services of their 
tenants on occasions of war, and to perpetuate the influence which 
military prowess or success in the first instance had given them, ex- 
hibits, in its decided monarchical character, the hereditary descent 
of rank and office, and other distinguishing features, considerable 
advances from a state of barbarism, and warrants the conclusion that 
they have been an organized community for many generations. But 
whatever antiquity their system may possess, they have made but 
little progress in the art of good government. The well-being of the 
subject seems to have been rarely regarded by the rulers, who appear 
to have considered the lower orders in general as a kind of property, 
to be employed only in promoting the interests of their superiors; 
and the ardent love of wealth, which an acquaintance with the pro- 
ductions of foreign countries has excited in most of the chiefs, has 
not improved the condition of the people. Industry receives no en- 
couragement; and even those whom natural energy of character would 



GOVERNMENT. 



487 



induce to cultivate a larger portion of land than vi^as absolutely neces- 
sary for their bare subsistence, are deterred from the attempt by the 
apprehension of thereby exposing themselves to the rapacity of ava- 
ricious or necessitous chiefs. Nothing can be more detrimental to 
the true interests of the chiefs, and the civilization and happiness of 
the people, than the abject dependence of the latter, the uncertain 
tenure of lands, the exactions of the chiefs, and the restrictions on 
the trade with the shipping which they impose." 

The government is a pure hereditary despotism, the will of the 
monarch in all cases being the law. Heirship is not confined to the 
male line, but in most instances female descent gives rank, which 
was explained to Mr. Canning by the late king Riho'riho when in Eng- 
land: he stated, that in the Sandwich Islands, a man never certainly 
knew who was his father^ but, in regard to his mother, doubts seldom 
existed. 

The system of government in its details is complex. There is no 
written code; though a few of the laws have been lately published. 
At the market the prices of every thing are fixed by the chiefs, who 
require one half of the receipts of the common people as their own 
perquisite. Their exactions upon the produce of the soil is in an 
equal ratio; so that a day laborer, who obtains one or two days' em- 
ployment in the week, is equally well off with him who manages a 
a little farm. Besides paying these exactions, the common people 
are obliged to render man-service to the king, five days in fourteen. 
There is also a poll tax, levied at a dollar for every man; a half dol- 
lar for every woman, and a quarter of a dollar for every child four 
feet high. 

The soil is recognised to be the sole property of the king. It was 
divided out amongst the chief warriors at the time of the conquest, 
and for its use they pay a tax in produce; but at the will of the king 
they may be deprived of their possessions at any moment. No mea- 
sure of land has yet been established, but districts or portions of 
soil are marked by natural boundaries. In the same way each is- 
land has a governor who pays the king an annual contribution in pro- 
duce and dollars. 

Such then are the influences combined against the increase of the 
population of these islands, which, under a different state of things, 
might become a seat of arts and of learning, and crowded with opu- 
lent people. Their position is very favorable for trade. Lying in 
the route between the western coasts of America and China, they have 
become an entrepot for merchant vessels, and the fur traders of the 
north-w^est coast of America, as well as a place of refreshment for 



488 COMMERCE. 

the great American whale fleet of the Pacific. When the laws shall 
be so modified as to encourage labor, and the soil shall be put under 
cultivation, large crops of sugar, cotton, coflfee, tobacco and silk will 
form the staples of a valuable commerce. 

It is difficult to estimate the value of the present trade of the islands. 
The capital constantly changing hands may be annually $300,000 
dollars, and always at an advance of from one to two hundred per 
cent. Bills of exchange either on England or the United States, are 
at a discount of from fifteen to twenty per cent. 

The value of real estate owned at Honolulu by the Americans and 
English is estimated at $100,000; and the whole amount of property 
of every description exclusive of shipping, thus owned, is not less 
than half a million of dollars, of which four-fifths are American. 

There are nearly two thousand tons of shipping owned by the 
foreign residents of Oahu, said to be worth $90,000. 

In the year 1834, 95 American whale ships, 17 English whale 
ships, and 36 merchant vessels visited the port of Honolulu. In 
1835, the number of whale ships was 72, and that of the merchant 
vessels 36. 

Statement of Imports at Honolulu, for the years 1834 

AND 1835. 

From the United States, in merchant vessels, $162,000 

Chile and Peru, " *' 56,000 

England and America, in whale ships, 40,000 

$258,000 

Consisting- of bleached and unbleached, and blue cotton 
cloth, prints, chintz, hardware, sheathing copper, cord- 
age, canvass, naval stores, paints, iron, bread, salted provi- 
sions, brandy, rum, wines, gin, furniture, soap, and oil. 

From China — blue nankins, cotton goods, silks, teas, sugar, &c. 97,000 

From Upper California— -sea-otter skins, bullocks' hides, horses, lum- 
ber, &c. 104,000 

From Columbia river, and Russian settlements on the north-west coast- 
salmon, lumber, spars, &c. 33,000 

From the north-west coast of America — furs, 29,000 

From Mexico — specie, 20,000 

From New South Wales and New Zealand — spars, lumber, hardware, 

cotton goods, &c. 16,000 

From the Society, Friendly, and Caroline islands — pearl shells, turtle 

shell, sugar, arrow root, cocoanut oil, &c. 15,000 

From Belgium — laces, gin, beer, &c. 3,000 

1575,000 



COMMERCE. 489 

In the above statement no account is made of the large quantity 
of merchandise brought to Honolulu, destined for other markets, and, 
of course, carried away without landing or changing hands. The 
statement shows the actual business operation. 

Statement of the Exports from Honolulu for the years 

1834 AND 1835. 

Sandal wood, 9,500 peculs, $60,000 
Furs — sea and land otter skins, beaver skins, &c, 109,000 
Bullocks' hides, ' 26,000 
Oil — Spermaceti, cocoanut, and Kukui oils, 20,000 
Turtle shell, $6,000— pearl shell, $6,000, 12,000 
Salt, $6,000-~^oat skins, $7,000, 13,000 
Arrow root, $2,000— Tobacco, $2,000, 4,000 
Foreign merchandise— chiefly exported to California, the Russian set- 
tlements, Mexico, and islands in the South Pacific, 100,000 
Provisions and supplies to whale ships, which are paid for in barter 

and bills of exchang-e on the United States and England, 140,000 

Specie, 10,000 



Totaiamount of Exports, $494,000 

Bills of exchange, drawn by the governors of the Russian colonies 
on the imperial government, and by masters of ships on their owners, 
afford the means of remitting a large amount, annually, to the United 
States, China, &c. 

For the above statements I am indebted to Mr. H. A. Pierce. 

As will be seen in the following memorial, our trade is, at times, 
interrupted, and requires the occasional presence of a ship-of-war 
for its protection, 

" Oahu, Sandwich Islands, > 
September 16th, 1836, 5 

" To Edmund P. Kennedy, Esq. 

Commanding U. S. Naval Forces, of the 
East India and Asiatic Station. 

*'SlR, 

" The undersigned, citizens of the United States of America, resi- 
dent at the Sandwich Islands, beg leave respectfully to represent to 
you: 

'' That we are all, directly or indirectly, interested in thecommer- 

62 



490 MEMORIAL OF AMERICAN RESIDENTS. 

cial GperatioHs conducted from the United States, China, and these 
Islands, to the coasts of California and Mexico: 

** That maMj serious outrages and unjust acts have been committed 
bj the governmental authorities of those countries upon American 
vessels and seamen, and great losses and damages sustained in con- 
sequence. 

" In the summer of 1833, the brig Loriot, Gorham H. Nje, master, 
Alpheus B. Thompson, supercargo, v/as unwarrantablj seized in the 
harbor of St. Francisco, and detained several months. The sails of 
the vessel were unbent, her rudder unhung, and carried on shore, the 
Kiaster and crew were confined on board, and the supercargo com- 
mitted to prison, whence he was not allowed his liberty for many 
months, nor until he b^^-d procured heavy bonds not to leave the coun- 
try. He still remains under those bonds, if not in prison. 

From intelligence recently received from California, we believe 
that a vessel, owned by John Coffin Jones, Esq., U. S. Consul, at 
this place, has been seized, and is, at present, detai'ned, under simi- 
lar circumstances of injustice, for alleged violations of the laws of 
the country, while she was under the direction other previous own- 
ers, and in command of her former master. We refer to these as 
instances of grievous embarrassments arbitrarily imposed on our com- 
merce. 

"We believe that jio vessel of the United States government has, 
for ma>ny years, visited Upper California.^ and we have great confi- 
dence that, were a naval force to appear on that coast, and visit 
Lower California and Mexico, it would render valuable service to 
our citizens residing in those countries, would afford needed succor 
and protection to American vessels, at present employed there, and 
be attended with results peculiarly advantageous to the general inte- 
rests of our national commerce. 

*' With these statements and views, we have to express the hope that 
you may find it in your power to visit those coasts with the force un- 
der your command, before you shall leave the Pacific. 

With due considerations of respect, 

we remain, sir, your fellow citizens. 
Pierce & Brewer, Ladd & Co. 

Joseph Moore, Sherman Peck, 

William Paty, Hinckley & Smith, 

A. H. Fayerweather, A. C. Davis, 
Thomas Cummins, John Paty, 

Henry P. Stevens, Samuel A. Cushing, 



AMERICAN CONSULS. 491 

Eliab Grimes & Co, Wm. French, by J. J. Greenway, 

Thomas Meek, I. R. Thomas, Jr. 

Henry Paty & Co-: J. Ebbetts, 

J. Peabody, Stephen D. Mackintosh, 

Eli Southworth, William H. Pearce, 

Joseph Navarro, Cornelius Hoyer, 

D. Owen, Nelson Hall, 

Samuel F. Shaw, Charles Titcomb, 
. , William C. Little." 

Our commercial interests at the Sandwich Islands require a con- 
sulate on a footing different from the present one. The consul 
should be placed, bj a competent salary, beyond the influence of 
personal interest in commercial transactions, that his opinions may 
be as free from bias as those of a judge on the bench. This'has been 
urged, again and again, for the past seven years, and merits investr- 
gation, at least, by the proper branch of our government. The gerf- 
tleman who at present fills the cffice is a favorite with all parties, 
and we regret that he was absent, engaged in his commercial aifairSo 

It was said, that a vice-consul here displayed too much energy 
among seamen^ and when a vessel arrived, of which the crew was, 
fi'om any cause, discontented, he v/ent on board, and said, "Now, 
men, there are three things I won't hear a word about— -you mustn't 
say you are worked too hard, that you are ill treated, or haven't enough 
to eat. If you have any thing else to say, I'll listen to you." 

If, on the contrary, the commander preferred charges against any 
of his crew, this vice-consul, arrogating to himself the final power 
of a court of oyer et terminer, condemned the charged seamen to la- 
bor in the fort at Honolulu; excusing the irregularity of the act with 
a sage apothegm, that those who eat must work, for he was not au- 
thorized to support any body in idleness. 



492 



TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES 



CHAPTER XLV. 



SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 

October, 1836. 

When foreigners first settled in the islands, the king or chiefs al- 
lotted to each one, upon application, a site for building a house, for 
which they paid neither tax nor lease-rent. But when they left the 
islands, the privilege of transferring tenements or improvements by 
sale or otherwise, was denied^ and the chiefs, in several instances, 
directed the owners to remove their houses, and then proceeded to 
take them down, and, piling the timber where the house stood, or- 
dered it to be taken away. The Hawaiians were, and still are 
treated in like manner. From this custom several disputes have 
arisen, the foreigners insisting upon their right of selling or other- 
wise disposing of their property, at any time, to any person or per- 
sons, which the king denies. The American residents complained 
©f several grievances of this kind, and others under the following- 
treaty. 

HE OLELO KUIKAHI. 



Articles of arrangement made and 
concluded at Oahu, between Thomas 
AP Catesbt Jones, appointed by the 
United S^tates, of the one part, and 
l^uiKEAOULT, King of the Sandwich 
Islands, and his Guardians, on the 
other part. 

ARTICLE I. 

The peace and friendship subsisting 
between the United States and their 
Majesties, the Queen Regent and Kau- 



Na olelo keia i hooponoponoia'i a 
hoopaaia'io Oahu nei e Thomas ap 
Catesbt Jones kekahi, ko Amerika 
luna i lioounaia mai nei mai ka United 
States mai, a me ke alii o ko Hawaii 
nei pae aina o Kauikeaouli o laua me 
ona kahu kekahi. 

PAUKU I. 

Eia kekahi olelo; ke olelo pu nei ka. 
kou e hoopaa loa i ke kuikahi pu ana a 
me ke aloha pu ana o ko Amerika a me 



ANii THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 



49^ 



ikeaouFi, King of the Sandwich Islands, 
and their subjects and people, are 
hereby confirmed and declared to be 
perpetual. 

ARTICLE II, 

The ships and vessels of the United 
States (as well as their Consuls and all 
other citizens,) within the territorial 
jurisdiction of the Sandwich Islands, to- 
gether with all their property, shall be 
inviolably protected against all enemies 
of the United States in time of war. 

ARTICLE lU. 

The contracting parties, being de- 
sirous to avail themselves of the boun- 
ties of Divine Providence, by promoting 
the commercial intercourse and friend- 
ship subsisting between the respective 
nations, for the better security of these 
desirable objects, their Majesties bind 
themselves to receive into their ports 
and harbors all ships and vessels of the 
United States, and to protect to the ut- 
termost of their capacity, all such ships 
and vessels, their cargoes, officers and 
crews, so long as they shall behave them- 
selves peacefully, and not infringe the 
established laws of the land; the citi- 
zens of the United States being per- 
mitted to trade freely with the people 
of the Sandwich Islands. 

ARTICLE IV. 
Their Majesties do farther agree to 
extend the fullest protection within 
their control to all ships and vessels of 
the United States, which may be wreck- 
ed on their shores, and to render every 
assistance in their power to save the 
wreck, and her apparel and cargo: and 
as a reward for the assistance and pro- 
tection which the people of the Sand- 
wich Islands shall afford to all such dis- 
tressed vessels of the United States, 
they shall be entitled to a salvage or a 
portion of the property so saved; but 



ko Hawaii kahu alii wahine a me ke alii 
nui o Hawaii nei o Kauikeaouli, a me 
ko laua poe kanaka a me pa makaainana 
a pau loa; eia ka hoailona e mau loa'i ua 
kuikahi nei. 

PAUKU IL 

Eia hou neia, a o ko Amerika poe 
moku mai a me ko laila kanikele, a me 
ko laila kanaka ma keia pae aina a me ko 
lakou waiwai, a i hiki i ka wa kaua, e pau 
ia mau mea i ka malama pono ia o ko Ha- 
v/aii nei i ko Amerika enemi a pau loa. 

PAUKU III. 
Eia hou neia, e makemake ana keia 
mau poe e loaa mai ia lakou ka waiwai 
a ke Akua i haawi mai ai, i ka hookuia 
pu ana a me ke alolia pu ana o na aina 
o ka poe nana keia oleolo, nolaila hoi 
no ka paa pono ana o keia mau mea 
mahalo, e ae mai ua mau alii o Hawaii 
nei, e pono ia laua e komo no iloko o ko 
laua awa a me ko laua mau wahi e ku 
ai ka moku, o na moku Amerika a pau, 
a e malama nui aku i ua mau moku la a 
me na ukana maluna a me na alii a me 
na kanaka o ua mau moku la oi hana 
pono mai lakou a i haki ole ia lakou na 
kanawai o keia aina i kau ai, e kuai no 
hoi ko Amerika, me ko Hawaii nei poe 
kanaka, 

PAUKU IV. 

Eia hou neia; ke olelo io nei ua mau 
ahi nei, e malama nui laua i ko Ameri- 
ka poe moku ke ili mai ma ko laua pae 
aina, e hooikaika pono aku laua i pa- 
kele ai ka moku ili a me kana mau mea 
a pau a me kona ukana. He pono no e 
loaa mai i ko Hawaii nei poe ka uku no 
ko lakou hooikaika ana i pakele ai au 
moku ili la a i malama pono ia ai ka 
mau mea ana. — Eia ka uku, he mau ka- 
la paha ai ole ia, o kekahi puu o ka 
waiwai i hoopakele ia ai, ka uku. Ina 
ekolu puu waiwai ua like, hookahi puu 



494 



TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES 



such salvag-e shall in no case exceed 
one-third of the value saved, which 
valuation is to be fixed by a commis- 
sion of disinterested persons, who shall 
be chosen equally by the parties. 



ARTICLE V. 
Citizens of the United States whe- 
ther resident or transient, engag-ed in 
commerce or trading' to the Sandwich 
Islands, shall be inviolably protected in 
their lawful pursuits; and shall be al- 
lowed to sue for and recover by judg- 
ment, all claims against the subjects of 
his Majesty, the King-, according to 
strict principles of equity and the ac- 
knowledged practice of civilized na- 
tions. 

ARTICLE VI. 

Their Majesties do farther agree, 
and bind themselves, to discountenance 
and use all practicable means to pre- 
vent desertion from all American ships 
which' visit the Sandwich Islands; and 
to that end, it shall be made the duty 
of all governors, magistrates, chiefs of 
districts and all others in authority, to 
apprehend all deserters, and deliver 
them over to the master of the vessel 
from which they have deserted; and 
for the apprehension of every such de- 
serter, who shall be delivered over as 
aforesaid, the master, owner or agent 
shall pay to the person or persons ap- 
prehending such deserter, the sum of 
six dollars, if taken on the side of the 
island near which the vessel is anchor- 
ed; but if taken on the opposite side of 
the island, the sum shall be twelve 
dollars; and if taken on any other isl- 
and, the reward shall be twenty-four 
dollars, and sliall be a just charge 
agamst the wages of every such deserter. 



paha ka uku, aka aole loa e nui aku ko 
lakou uku i kekahi o ua puu waiwai 
akolu la. 

A o ka mea nona ka moku a o ka poe 
i hoopakeleia ai ka waiwaij e kuhikuhi 
pu lakou i kekahi mau kanaka e aole no 
lakou ka waiwai na lakou hoi e hoike 
mai i ka nui o ka waiwai i malamia ia<.. 
PAUKU V. 

A o ko Amerika poe kanaka e kuav 
ana ma ko Hawaii nei pae aina, ka poe 
e noho ana a me ka poe e holoholo ana^ 
e pau lakou i ka malama ponoia i ka la*- 
kou hana ana i ka mea i ku i ke kanawaio 

A he pono no lakou e hoopaa i ka poe 
lawehala ma ke kanawai, a ma ka ahaof- 
lelo e loaa mai ai ia lakou ka uku e pau 
ai ha aie pono a pau a na kanaka o ko 
Hawaii nei alii e like ai me ke kanawai 
pololei a me ka oihana o ka aina naauao 
i ikea ai. 

PAUKU VI. 

Eia hou neia, ke olelo io nei ke alri 
nui laua o kona kahu ka olelo i paa ai 
laua i ka hooikaka aku laua e ptiu ai ka 
mahuka ana mai o na kanaka o ko Ame- 
rika mau moku e hiki mai ana i ko Ha- 
waii nei pae aina, e alai aku no i ka 
mahuka and msti. 

No ia mea, he pono no na'lii malama 
aina, a me na kilo, a me na kiaaina, a 
me na kaualii a pau e hopu aku a paa 
ka poe mahuka a pau, a e hoihoi aku i 
ka mea nona ka moku i haalele ia aku ai. 

A e ukuia mai ko onei poe i hopu 
aku, e ka mea nona ka moku. Ina ma 
ka aoao o ka aina e ku ai ka moku e paa 
ai ka mea i mahuka, eono kala ka uku. 
A ina ma kela aoao o ka aina e paa ai 
umi a me kumemalua kala ka uku, a 
ina ma ka aina e i moku i ke kai e paa 
ai a i hoihoi i kona moku, iwakalua ka- 
la a me kumamaha ka uku no loko po- 
no keia uku o ka waiv/ai a ka mea ma- 
huka i hoolimalimaia'i malaila e kau po- 
tt oia'i. 



AND THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 495 

ARTICLE VIL PAUKU VII. 

No tonnag-e duties or impost shall be Eia hou neia; aole io aku ka uku mai 
exacted of any citizen of the United no keawaokoxVmerikapoe kanaka i ko 
States, which is not paid by the citizens ..ka aina punahele kanaka e kuai ana ma 
or subjects of the nation most favored ko Hawaii pae aina, aole kii hou ia aku 
in commerce with the Sandwich Isl- ka uku nui a e o ko Amerikakanaka. 
ands; and the citizens or subjects of A e kuai no ko Hawaii nei poe kan - 
the Sandwich Islands shall be allowed ka me ko Amerika, e like ka oihana a 
to trade with the United States and her me ka pono e pono ai ko ka aina puna- 
territories, upon principles of equal ad- bele loa i ke kuai pu ana mai me ko 
vantage with the most favored nation. Hawaii nei pae aina. 

Bone in Council at Honolulii, Island oF Ua hoopaaia i ka ahaolelo ma Honulu, i 
Oahu, this 23d day of December, in ka aina Oahu nei, i keiala 23d o De- 
the year of our Lord 1826. temaba, i ka rnakahiki o ko kakou 

Haku 1826. 

THOMAS AP CATESBY JONES, ELISABETA KAAHUMANU, 

J^AEAIMOKU, 
BOKI, 
HOAPILI, 

LIBIA NAMAHANA, 
THOS. AP CATESBY JONES. 

With a view to the adjustment of these differences. Commodore 
'Kennedy waited upon Kinau, the governess of the Island of Oahu. 
We found her at her house, near the fort, with her husband and 
several of the chiefs. The house has adobe w^alls, and a native roof, 
lined with mats. One side of the apartment in which we were re- 
ceived, was occupied by a pile of mats, which served as a divan or abed, 
according to circumstances. A board partition, neatly painted, 
separated it from the sleeping apartment of Kinau. The furniture 
consisted of a table, a China desk, Windsor chairs, and arm chairs 
for the king, governess and Commodore. 

It had been improperly given out that the interview was to be 
public, and as the subjects to be discussed were of much general 
interest to the foreign residents, a considerable number attended at 
the several interviews which took place. 

We were politely welcomed, and learned that the king had de- 
puted Kinau to act for him, as he was too unwell to attend. 

The first complaint preferred, was, that American vessels had been 
prevented from trading at the Island of Maui without justifiable 
cause, which act was in violation of the third article of the treaty. 

Kinau stated that one vessel had been prevented from trading at 
Maui, because the Captain, in open violation of the law, after having 
been duly informed of it, continued to sell ardent spirits, whieh the 



496 INTERVIEWS WITH THE KING OF THE 

king had prohibited in all the islands except Oahu. Nor does he 
allow it to be distilled except on this island. This explanation was 
received as amply satisfactory. 

The next subject brought up for consideration was, whether the 
king had a right to prevent American residents from transferring 
houses, &c., by sale or otherwise. Kinau urged, that the king had 
never, in any instance, alienated his right in the soil, and when lots 
of ground were assigned to foreigners, it was always understood, 
either on the departure of the individual from the islands, or at his 
death, such ground reverted to the king, and that it must be cleared. 
That the king would give his consent, were it asked, to the sale or 
transfer of houses, &c., provided he should deem the person to 
whom the transfer was to be made, respectable, and likely to be a 
good citizen. 

The next day another interview occurred, and the subject was 
again discussed. The king was now present. He argued, that if 
he yielded the right of free transfer, without consulting the govern- 
ment, he virtually resigned his right in the soil, which was unaliena- 
ble, as well as all authority or control over it, and thus he might 
be deprived of all his country. He was asked how that could be the 
case, so long as he received a rent or tax for it; and we were told 
in reply, that he had in no instance received rent or tax for 
lands hitherto granted to foreigners. There was no representative 
value affixed to land; and keeping this fact in view, we are not 
surprised at His Majesty's argument. The subject of leasing lands 
for the purpose of cultivating sugar, cotton, coffee, tobacco, or silk, 
was talked of, and the king expressed himself decidedly in favor of 
the principle; but wished to be expressly understood, that in recog- 
nising the principle of lease, he did not feel bound to grant lands to 
all who might apply. He was unwilling to give this in writing, be- 
cause, he said, it was a new thing, and required more consideration 
than he had yet been able to give it. 

On both of these occasions, the Rev. Mr. Bishop acted as inter- 
preter. His constant attention, his gentlemanly demeanor, and his 
enlarged views of the subjects under discussion, as well as the know- 
ledge he displayed of the language, commanded the praise and ap- 
probation of all the officers present. He was equally desirous with 
our commercial countrymen here, to settle the question of the right 
of transferring property, because the property of the mission was not 
more secure than that belonging to other foreigners. 

Some questions were asked in relation to the authority of Ameri- 
,can consuls. An English cockney who was present, and who volun- 



SANDWICH ISLANDS. 497 

teered to give us information on the subject, afterwards asked, " Have 
you attorneys or lawyers in America?" I mention this because it 
reminds me that a gentleman of the same tribe asked me, at Valpa- 
raiso, in 1827, what we did in America when we wanted a coat; — 
then pausing, and perhaps perceiving my astonishment, added — "Ah! 
but I imagine some English tailors have gone out there by this time." 

A third interview took place the following day, on which occasion, 
Mr. Chamberlain, the fiscal agent of the mission, acted as interpre- 
ter. I was surprised to find that he, as well as several others of the 
mission, entertained a notion, that if foreigners were allowed to lease 
lands, there would be a risk of the king losing all control over the 
islands, and for that reason opposed the principle which had been re- 
cognised. 

Messrs. Ladd & Co. have already leased a tract of land on the 
island of Kauai, for cultivating sugar-cane and making sugar. They 
pay a rent for it, and besides granting them some privileges, pay the 
natives whom they employ, daily wages of about twelve and a half 
cents each, and their poll tax. The king declares, his revenue from 
this one plantation, is greater than that which he previously received 
from the whole island. 

An old claim of $60,000 was admitted, and the king offered to li- 
quidate it within two years, provided the claimant would receive it 
in any articles produced upon the islands, which should be left to his 
selection, and he would commence the payment at once; but the gen- 
tleman was absent, and his agent did not think proper to accept 
the terms; we afterwards saw him, and he told me he would have 
gladly acceded to the proposition, had he been present. 

A very much smaller claim of another American was also recog- 
nised. 

Though nothing was settled, it must be plain to those who re- 
flect upon the subject in all its bearings, that the mere discus- 
sion of the several points, so entirely new to the mind of his Ha- 
waiian Majesty, must have a beneficial efiect; particularly if nego- 
tiation should be in future attempted by any one clothed with proper 
authority. Nor were these interviews to no purpose, since they re- 
sulted in a formal acknowledgment of American claims to a very 
considerable amount, for which the gentlemen most interested 
must feel entirely indebted to the kind interference of Commo- 
dore Kennedy. He could not, consistently with American prin- 
ciples of honor and justice, make use of threats, or force, to bully 
63 



498 COMMODORE KENNEDy's LETTER TO THE KING 

these people into an acquiescence with his views, as a British Cap- 
tain, Lord Edward Russel, we are informed, has since done. Per- 
haps he regarded the king and chiefs as rebellious subjects of His 
Britannic Majesty, inasmuch as the celebrated Tamehameha ceded 
these islands, through Captain Vancouver, to Great Britain, which 
cession was confirmed by the late King R-iho'riho, when in England. 

But as Americans never resort to the force of arms to corroborate 
their arguments in diplomacy, particularly when no such appeal is 
necessary. Commodore Kennedy left them to learn the advantage 
and importance of the subjects urged upon their consideration. 

Before sailing, the following letters, which explain themselves, 
were directed to the authorities. 

" U. States Ship Peacock, 

Honolulu, Sandwich Islands, 

October rtlhlSSG. 
" To His Majesty, 

Kauikeaouli, King of the Sandwich Islands, 

" Having indulged the hope that the negotiations which have been 
pending for the past week, would have terminated in the formation 
of more intimate relations, and some new ties of friendship between 
our respective countries, which would be advantageous to American 
citizens as well as to your own subjects, I cannot refrain, on leaving 
these islands, from expressing in a concise manner, my sentiments 
with regard to several subjects of importance, upon which we have 
not been able to come to a definite conclusion, 

"The first, which is in my opinion, at present, of paramount 
importance, is the right of American citizens to transfer to other 
American citizens, any property, rights, or privileges, which may 
have been derived from the government of these islands, either by 
purchase, gift, or lease. 

*' This right is so essential for the protection of the interests of resi- 
dents, that although not expressly stated in the Treaty made by Cap- 
tain Jones, it may be very easily inferred from it, and as it is equally 
necessary for the interests of these islands, that every foreigner's 
right should be distinctly stated and carefully preserved, I have to 
express the hope that you will, at an early period, adopt some plans 
which will prevent farther occasion of dissatisfaction in this respect, 
both with regard to those now holding lands, and those who may here- 
after become tenants. Unless this should be the case, it cannot be 



OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 499 

expected that any one will be disposed to invest their property in 
buildings on government lands, and consequently the natives will be 
deprived of a considerable amount of property, which is now expend- 
ed by settlers from abroad, in erecting durable dwelling-houses or 
stores, and all improvement in the appearance and convenience of 
the dwellings must speedily cease. 

" I beg also that the subject of leasing or renting lands to our citi- 
zens for agricultural purposes, may receive your best attention^ be- 
ing fully convinced, that the prosperity of this nation can in no way 
be more speedily promoted, than by encouraging the growth of sugar, 
coffee, silk, hemp, indigo, and other articles of commercial import- 
ance.. 

*' The increase of revenue to the government from this source, might 
alone form a sufficient inducement for the promotion of agricultural 
interests; but to this may be added the increase of industry, health, 
happiness, and comfort to the population generally, in case the lands 
now lying without benefit to any one, should be brought into active 
cultivation, by the labor of the natives. It will not only bring to 
your ports ships of all nations, for the purpose of carrying away the 
produce of your lands, but afford the natives generally the means of 
procuring those manufactures of other countries, which will increase 
their usefulness and knowledge; and which add so essentially to the 
happiness of civilized nations. 

*' With regard to the imprisonment of American seamen, who have 
been charged by the captains or officers of merchant vessels with 
mutiny, and other offences of a serious character, I have to request 
that as no authority is vested by the United States of America, in any 
person which empowers him to punish American citizens, you will be 
careful, in every instance where such persons are placed in your cus- 
tody by the consul, that they are not in any manner ill treated, or 
compelled to labour for the government, as I am informed has for- 
merly been the practice, but merely detained until an opportunity 
occurs of sending them home for trial. 

" 1 wish also to observe, that although as king of these islands you 
have a right to make any particular religion the standing religion of 
the land, you have not under the Treaty now existing between your 
government and the United States, any right to expel from your land, 
or prohibit from landing, any American citizen or citizens, whatever 
may be his or their religious opinions, so long as they conform to your 
laws; as in the United States, every person is at liberty under our 
laws, to worship God in his own way, and every denomination, whe^ 



500 CAPTAIN STRIBLINg's LETTER TO KINAU 

ther Christian or Jew, is eligible to the highest office in the govern- 
ment. 

" The recognition of Mr. Paty's case, subsequent to our conference, 
will prevent the necessity of any farther interference on my part; and 
I have now only to express my best wishes for the welfare and pros- 
perity of yourself and the Sandwich Islands. 
I have the honor to be. 

Very respectfully, 

Your obedient servant, 

EDMUND P. KENNEDY. 
Commanding the East India and Asiatic squadron." 

" U. S. Ship Peacock, 

Honolulu, October^ 1836. 

« To KiNAU, 

High Chief of Oahu, 
&c. &c. 

" I have thought a few remarks from me at this time would not be 
unacceptable to you. I have long felt the deepest interest in the hap- 
piness of the people over whom you preside as chief and governor. 

*' I visited these islands seven years ago, and was much gratified 
with what I then saw. Your people had made considerable advances 
in morals and religion; and I was particularly pleased with the zeal 
and fidelity of the missionaries residing among your people. I then 
hoped a few years more would see the Hawaiian people a christian 
and civilized nation. I did hope, that as soon as the chiefs embraced 
the christian religion, they would see the importance of elevating the 
character and condition of the common people; and that they would 
be induced to this course by motives of christian philanthropy, as well 
as by motives of worldly policy. 

" It is remarked in all christian and highly civilized nations, that 
the power and wealth of the rulers of every country increase with 
the morality, intelligence and wealth of the commonalty; and it is 
also remarked that the stability and permanency of the government 
become more secure as the morality, religion and intelligence of the 
mass of the people become general. 

" From careful accounts which have been taken of the births and 
deaths, it appears that the population of the islands is decreasing with 
fearful rapidity. What is causing this decrease, I will not venture 
to say; but I beg to suggest a few changes in the condition of the peo- 
ple, which, if adopted, will, I have no doubt, soon change the condi- 



THE HIGH CHIEF OF OAHU. 501 

tion of the nation, from its present depression to one of high pros- 
perity. 

" 1-. Jl fixed and certain rent upon land, 

" If the cultivators of the soil are satisfied, after paying a proper 
rent to the owner of the land, in money or produce, that all the pro- 
duce left is their own, they will have an inducement to labor, which 
does not at present exist. 

" 2. Security for person and property. 

" Unless the people are secure in the enjoyment of the fruits of their 
labor, it will be in vain to attempt to improve their condition. No 
man will work more than he is compelled to, without he has a rea- 
sonable security that he will be permitted to enjoy the fruits of his 
labor, without fear of being dt^prived of his property by the chiefs or 
the government. 

^- As the improvement of the islands is mainly dependent on trade, 
every protection should be afforded to all foreign residents, as well 
to their ships as goods, so long as they act correctly. They should 
be permitted freely to buy, sell, or exchange any kind of property. 
Nothing short of this, will be such a protection as will induce fo- 
reigners of property and respectability to remain on the islands. 
'* 3. Jin entire abrogation of all compulsory labor, 
" When the chiefs or government require work to be done, let the 
laborers be paid the full market price for labor. 

"4. Taxes. They should be equal throughout the islands, and so 
moderate as not to distress the people. A poll tax, if possible, 
should be avoided, for the rich and poor pay the same amount. 

" The cultivation of cotton and coffee can be carried on without any 
capital, and a ready sale for all that can be produced cannot be 
doubted. Sugar-cane can also be cultivated by the small land holder^ 
but it requires a large capital to procure all the machinery required 
to manufacture sugar from cane. It would therefore be well to en- 
courage and permit capitalists to have establishments on each of the 
islands, similar to that of Messrs. Ladd & Co. on Kauai. It would 
also be well to encourage the establishing of one or two cotton manu- 
factories. 

" By the adoption of measures like these, the wealth of the king 
and chiefs would be vastly increased, and the continuance of the go- 
vernment secured. The happiness of all would be promoted, and 
the desire of your friends in all parts of the world would be accom- 
plisiied. 

" By adopting these few changes, which do not affect the right of the 



502 CAPTAIN stribling's letter. 

king or chiefs to the soil, or their jurisdiction over the people, a sti- 
mulus would be given to industry, which would in a few years 
change the face of the country from barren wastes to fruitful fields 
and smiling villages, teeming with a happy, prosperous and numerous 
people. 

"If something be not done speedily, to bring about a salutary 
change, I shall indulge the most gloomy reflections as to the conti- 
nuance of your race and nation. 

*' I regret that we cannot converse together, for there are some things 
here suggested which I should like to explain more fully. 

"Excuse the freedom which 1 have taken in thus addressing you. 
Your good and the good of your people are my only motive. 

" That God may enable you and others in authority, to come to a 
right and speedy determination in these important matters, is the 
prayer of one, deeply and feelingly interested in your happiness, for 
time and eternity. 

*' Permit me to close these remarks by subscribing myself your 
friend and brother, 

C. K. Stribling." 



SKETCHES IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 



HARBOR OF MONTE-REY. 505 



CHAPTER XLVI. 



SKETCHES IN CALIFORNIA. 



October, 1836. 

On the 26th of September the Enterprise sailed for Mazatlan, 
accompanied by two American merchant vessels, bound to that 
place. 

In compliance with the memorial of the American residents, given 
above, Commodore Kennedy determined to visit Upper Californiai 
and on the 9th of October, sailed from the harbor of Honolulu. We 
did not lose sight of the island until the second day, when we en- 
countered a light gale from the northward and westward. The wind 
continued fresh from that quarter until the 24th, when after a passage 
of fifteen days and seven hours, the ship anchored in the harbor of 
Monte-rey, the capital of upper California. The passage w^as plea- 
sant. The thermometer fell gradually as we increased our latitude, 
from 80° F. to 58° F.; and one morning, at Monte-rey, was as low as 
49° F. To us this temperature was uncomfortably cold; but it operated 
like a charm upon those on board who had been enfeebled by disease. 

On approaching the coast we fell in with large beds of beautiful 
sea-weed, which is occasionally met with in such heavy masses as to 
impede a vessel's motions. The leaves are two or three feet long, 
and two or three inches broad in the centre, and tapering towards 
the end like the blades of Indian corn. They are of a yellowish 
brown color, crimped like crape, and soft and velvety to the touch. 
On the stem of each leaf there is attached an air vessel, joining it to 
the stalk, which serves most effectually as a buo}^ 

The harbor of Monte-rey is situated in 36° 36' north latitude, and 
121° 42' west longitude. It was discovered in the year 1602, and 
was named in honor of Don Gaspar de Zuniga, Conde de Monte-rey, 
at that time Viceroy of Mexico. It is very large, open to the north- 
west, from which point a very considerable swell at times sets in to 
64 



506 MONTE-REY TRADE TREATY WITH MEXICO. 

the anchorage. The water is deep, and ships usually anchor in about 
ten fathoms close to the shore. The land around the bay is high 
and covered by a growth of pine trees, which circumstance has 
given name to the southern point of the harbor — Punta de Pinos. 

The town is a scattering village, containing not more than five 
hundred inhabitants, among whom are fifteen or twenty foreigners, 
Americans and Englishmen, engaged in trade, which chiefly consists 
in exchanging European goods for hides and tallow. The hides are 
purchased at one dollar and a half each, in cash, or at two dollars in 
goods, and are sent to the United States. Tallow is at one dollar 
the quintal, (100 lbs.,) and is disposed of in the Lima market. 

We found four merchant vessels and two whale ships, all Ameri- 
can, in the harbor. One of them had been, for some months, going 
from port to port, on the coast, collecting hides and depositing them 
at Santa Barbara, where they are prepared by salting, &c., and 
thence shipped to the United States. 

The trade is so closely connected with that of the Russian settle- 
ments on the north-west coast of America, that no estimate of its 
value at Monte-rey alone can be easily made. There may be from 
six to eight American vessels on the coast, every year, which visit 
San Francisco, Monte-rey, Santa Barbara, and some other ports in 
Upper California, and exchange goods in each for hides and tallow, 
and, occasionally, a few beaver and otter skins. They sometimes 
convey horses and bullocks to the Sandwich and Society Islands. 

Our trade with Mexico, at least on the west coast, is much op- 
pressed by the heavy charges to which it is subject. Besides duties 
on their cargoes, amounting almost to a prohibition on some articles, 
ships are charged an anchorage fee, no matter under what circum- 
stances they may enter a port, of seventeen reals ($2,125) a ton, 
amounting to $637,50 on a ship of three hundred tons. It is true, 
after paying this sum, a vessel may go from port to port, in Upper 
California, as often as may be found desirable, without paying any 
additional anchorage fee, on exhibiting her register, countersigned by 
the captain of the port she may have left last. 

Our treaty with Mexico is on a footing with the most favored na- 
tion. It requires revision and correction in several particulars. In 
one point of this instrument the Mexican diplomatists have been an 
over-match both for the American Charge and the British Envoy, 
possibly owing to a want of a critical knowledge of the Spanish lan- 
guage on the part of those gentlemen. 

It has been a usual, and but too frequent practice of the Mexican 



UPPER CALIFORNIA MISSIONS. 507 

government, when in want of funds, to exact heavy loans from fo- 
reign merchants residing in the country; which are seldom, or never, 
repaid. To relieve them from such an oppression, the diplomatist 
negotiated an article, which, in English, exempts them entirely from 
forced loans; but the Spanish reading implies that American mer- 
chants shall not be selected or distinguished from Mexican mer- 
chants, and alone forced to loan money to the government; but they 
shall be subject to the same contingencies equally with them. 

Upper California possesses a fertile soil and a good climate. Its 
population is very much scattered, and consists almost entirely of 
native Indians, whose numbers are supposed not to exceed ten thou- 
sand. They cultivate a few vegetables, but obtain their chief sub- 
sistence by the chase. They associate in tribes, or bands, of one or 
two hundred, seldom in greater numbers, because larger companies 
cannot readily supply themselves with sufficient game, within the 
extent of a day's hunt. They plunder the farms of the colonists of 
horses, which they eat in preference to beef, though horned cattle 
are more abundant: this fact contradicts the assertion of Professor 
Kidd, that no people eat horse flesh through preference. 

Not long after the Spanish conquest, these Indians became objects 
of solicitude with the fathers of the church, and they soon established 
mission stations for their conversion to Christianity. The Indians 
were caught, and carried to the church, vi et armis, and baptized, 
and thenceforward distinguished as rational people — gente de razon. 
But, feeling little confidence in the controlling influence of baptism 
over their erratic habits, the priests usually kept them prisoners until 
they acquired some handicraft, and in this way some few were ci- 
vilized. 

At this time there are twenty-one missions in Upper California, 
all of which are in a state of decay. I visited that at Cormelo, which 
I found in ruins, and almost abandoned. It is about four miles from 
Monte- rey. The road to it is easy, and agreeably varied by hill and 
dale, every where covered by pine and other forest trees, and re- 
markably free from undergrowth. 

The mission building is, perhaps, a hundred yards square, one 
story high, and roofed with tiles. We rode through the gate, which 
was just ready to fall from its hinges, into the great central court, 
round which it is built, where we found eight or ten Indians engaged 
in repairing the roof. They informed us that the Padre was at the 
presidio, or garrison, and that there was no one to show us the 
church, which, exteriorly, was in a dilapidated state. All the win- 



508 GOVERNMENT. 

dovvs opened in upon the court, and were heavily barred with iron, 
with the design of preventing the escape of the christian neophytes, 
who were locked up at night in apartments to which these windows 
give light and air. Some of those were open. They were strewed 
with rubbish and filth, and, altogether, in a worse condition than the 
commonest stable should be. 

The vicinity of Monte-rey, and, indeed, all Upper California, 
abound in game, rabbits, hares, squirrels, quails, snipe, ducks, &c.; 
and bears and deer are shot within a few miles of the town. While 
here, our tables were well supplied, as our chief amusement consisted 
in sport. The bay abounds in excellent fish, and a variety of shells 
are found upon its shores. A large species of haliotis, the internal 
nacre of which is beautifully iridescent, abounds: the animal is eaten, 
but, unless great pains be taken to beat it well, before cooking, it is 
tough and unpalatable. It forms, occasionally, a large black pearl, 
which is, by some persons, much admired. 

The government of Upper California is, at present, administered 
by Lieutenant Colonel Don Nicolas Gutierrez. Don Nicolas resides 
at the presidio, or garrison, where he commands, without other as- 
sistance than that of a major of artillery, a captain and a lieutenant 
of infantry, and one or two corporals, fourteen men, and two field 
pieces. At the time of our visit they were nightly on guard, expect- 
ing an attack from some disaffected rancheros (farmers) and Indians. 
The day after our arrival we saluted the place, which was regularly- 
acknowledged from the garrison. The whole military force of Up- 
per California does not exceed one hundred and fifty men. 

The judiciary consists of a Juez de Distrito (District Judge) and 
a number of Alcaldes. From the unsettled state of this part of the 
country, as well as all Mexico, these worthy dispensers of justice 
are not unfrequently seen upon the bench with a brace of pistols and 
a sword before them, instead of a mace, as badges of office. Of their 
intelligence not much can be said, but an idea of it may be gathered 
from the following case. 

Two common men, one named Juan and the other Pedro, had a 
difference. Juan lodged a complaint that he had loaned to Pedro a 
sum of money, some time before, but could not persuade him to pay 
it, though he was passing rich in flocks, and horses, and oxen. After 
a little deliberation, the Alcalde declared that Pedro must and should 
pay the money, even if he forced him to sell his cattle. Accordingly, 
Pedro was summoned to the presence of the man of law, when Juan 
again stated the case, and appealed to Pedro for the truth of what he 
had said, which was readily acknowledged. 



JUDICIARY. 509 

" Then," said the Alcalde, " since you owe this debt, why do'you 
not pay it?" 

" Because, Seiior," replied Pedro, " I have no money." 

" But," interrupted Juan, " tienes tu una manada, caballos, buyes 
y cuanto hai — thou hast a flock, horses, oxen, and every thing." 

"Well said, Juan," exclaimed the Alcalde, " and he shall sell 
them and pay the debt, or I will teach him what is law, and what is 
justice." 

" Vuestra Merced, Senor, es un hombre de bien y sabio— your 
worship is an honest and a wise man," said Juan, with a bow. 

Pedro looked a little puzzled at this decision, and after twirling 
his hat a moment, bowed, and said, " Puez Seiior, con licencia, una 
palabra^ — But, sir, a word by your leaver " then, turning to Juan, 
continued," ^j Puez Juan, me presteis a mi el dinero, 6 lo presteis a 
mis buyes, 6 mis caballos, 6 a mi manada.^ — Well, Juan, didst thou 
lend the money to me, or didst thou lend it to my oxen, or to my 
horses, or to my flock?" 

" I lent it to you, Pedro." 

"Thou sayest well; if you lent the money to me, then, of course, 
I am responsible, and I must pay; but if thou didst lend it to my 
oxen, or to my horses, or to my flock, it is clear, they are responsi- 
ble, and they must pay;" and as he finished the argument, he 
turned triumphantly to the Alcalde, looking as if it were unanswer- 
able. 

The worthy magistrate had listened attentively, and after a few 
moments' pause, reversed his decision; showing, that with him at 
least, a sense of right and wrong was not innate. He drew himself 
up, and said with much gravity, " Pedro, tu tienes razon, y no se 
puede vender sus bienes— Pedro, thou art right, and thy property 
cannot be sold." 

*' And what then am I to do?" asked Juan. 

"Wait," said Pedro, "till I get money to pay you." 

" That is all can be done according to law in the case," said the 
Alcalde, and dismissed the parties. 

This Alcalde may be paralleled with the Delaware judge, who, 
having listened only to one half the case, was about to pronounce 
sentence, when he was interrupted by the counsel for the defendant, 
exclaiming, *'But your Honor has not heard the other side of the 
question!" 

" Nor do I mean to hear it, for when I hear both sides of a case, 



510 AMERICAN TRAPPERS. 

it always puzzles me, and I am not able to pronounce the sentence 
half so well." 

While at Monte-rey, the ship was visited by several trappers or 
fur hunters of the ' far west.' Those who came on board were from 
Tennessee, and had never seen a ship nor salt water until they be- 
held the North Pacific Ocean. 

Armed with rifles and their traps, these daring sons of the forest, 
leave the western frontier, in bands not exceeding twenty or thirty, 
mounted on mules, for the reason that horses are found to be inca- 
pable of bearing the fatigues of the journey. They travel across the 
vast prairie lands of the west to Santa Fe, and thence to Upper Cali- 
fornia, trapping beavers wherever they find them. 

In their marches they often meet with tribes of unfriendly Indians, 
and almost as often have rencontres, which usually end fatally to 
some of the parties. The Indians invariably scalp those whom they 
kill 5 and the trappers often imitate this barbarous custom of savage 
warfare. We asked a Tennessean trapper whether he had ever 
killed an Indian? 

" Ay, many a one." 

'* Did you always scalp them?" 

*' No. I never could do that, because when I have killed a man, 
I think I have troubled him enough, and I don't like to disturb him 
after that!" 

On their march the trappers often separate, and are alone in those 
unfrequented wilds, for one, two or more days together, with no 
other protection, or means of obtaining food than the rifle, without 
which they never move any where, even to the shortest distance 
from their camps, which are usually so appointed that they may be 
readily found. A trapper does not like to stroll alone from the 
camp, more than thirty or forty miles; because, said my informant, 
" he might find himself surprised by them Indian Devils." On 
these occasions, they never think of sleeping without shoes or moc- 
casins; and the rifle always reposes beside them. Whenever a trap- 
per is surprised thus alone, by a party of Indians, *' he makes for the 
bush, and shoots the first Indian that approaches, and then shifts 
his hiding-place." 

" But do they not follow into the bush?" 

** No, the devils dar'n't, because they know there's a rifle in the 
bush," said the trapper with a knowing smile, '* and I guess one of 
us would be afeard to go in the bush, when one knows there's a rifle 
in there." 



AMERICAN TRAPPERS. 511 

*'Do you never take any provision with you, when leaving the 
camp alone? 

" No, what does a man want better to feed himself with than a ri- 
fle?' His companions would laugh, if he carried provisions from the 
camp." 

Our informer stated, that he had been twice from Tennessee to 
Monte-rey, and ' the travel ' was made in about two years. During 
their journeys they live chiefly on buffalo-beef, and venison, which 
they eat without either bread or salt. They very soon learn to do 
without salt, and seldom think it a privation. And what is very re- 
markable, this man said, he had never known an instance of sickness 
among the trappers, though they sometimes quarrelled and shot each 
other. So accustomed are they to the open air, and so uncomforta- 
ble do they find themselves in a closed atmosphere, that one who went 
by sea from Monte-rey to San Francisco could not be induced to stay 
in the cabin of the ship upon which he had embarked, " What," said 
he, looking down the companion-way 5 '* What ! go down into that holej 
I should smother to death!" He slept on deck, using no other bed- 
ding than a blanket, and no other pillow than his arm. 

This passenger was loath to believe, that each rope composing the 
rigging, to him a confused mass, had its respective name, and ap- 
pealed to the commander to ascertain the truthj — "I say, Capting, 
your mate tells me you have names for all these here ropes?" and 
and when told that such was the case, he declared, " it beat all na- 
tur." 

The rifles used by the trappers are of the calibre carrying thirty balls 
to the pound. The accuracy with which they shoot is the admiration 
of all, except those who, like themselves, are reared with rifles always 
in their hands, and taught to look upon this weapon as a source of 
profit, of defence and offence, as well as of amusement. One of them, 
premising, that he was not considered a shot either by himself or his 
companions, off*ered a bet, that he would strike a dollar at a hundred 
yards without once missing, for as many shots as we might please, 
adding, " and make the bet worth consideration, and I will shoot all 
day." 

By way of contrast, I may mention an individual whose education 
and general notions had been drawn entirely from the ocean. I was 
introduced to an old man named Captain Smith. He had left his na- 
tive town of Norfolk, Va. when a boy, in the year 1777, while the 
British flag still floated in the harbor. He doubled cape Horn, and 
remained in the Pacific Ocean, cruising among the islands, and on 



519. CAPTAIN SMITH. 

the north-west coast, until 1832, when, after an absence of fifty- 
five years, he returned to his native land. The old man visited Nor- 
folk, but was filled with melancholy to find every thing so changed; 
the relations and friends of his youth had disappeared, and he recog- 
nised nothing but a small wooden bridge which was fast falling to 
decay. His feelings did not allow him to remain. He visited seve- 
ral of the large cities, and again returned to the Pacific. Though too 
old to command, he continues to go to sea as passenger from port to 
port, now among the islands, and now on the north-west coast, and 
entertains his friends with stories of his voyages. He recollects Van- 
couver distinctly, and mentioned, that at San Francisco the Indians 
used to gather round his ship to see, if possible, the punishments 
which Vancouver daily inflicted upon his men. " He served out ten 
or twelve dozen every morning at the gangway." 

I remarked, I should have supposed a man who had been so much 
at sea would, in his old age, prefer to sit down quietly on shore to 
spend the remainder of his days. " No, no, sir," he replied, " it 
would kill any man to live always on shore; he must have a brush at 
sea once in a while to keep his timbers from rotting." 

It was mentioned in the old man's hearing, that the Catholic mis- 
sionaries who had been expelled from the Sandwich Islands, were 
at Monte-rey, and anxious to obtain a passage to Oahu, in the hope 
of finding there an opportunity of proceeding to the Gambier Isl- 
ands, where there is a Catholic mission. "Well," said Captain 
Smith, *' they will cause more trouble, I suppose. The two worst 
things, and the two things most difficult to understand and manage, 
which have come in my way, are a missionary and a California 
saddle; you can't get along with either of them without getting 
rubbed." 

On the 30th, the Commodore having done all that was necessary in 
relation to the subjects of complaints under existing circumstances, 
we got under way. An almost impenetrable fog overhung the har- 
bor nearly all day, and it was late before we got fairly at sea. Our 
course lay to the southward, along the coast of Lower California, in 
order to have the advantage of the land and sea breezes. 

Previous to sailing, the following letter, expressing the thanks of 
several American citizens for his kind interference, was addressed 
to Commodore Kennedy. 



LETTER TO COMMODORE KENNEDY. 513 

" MoNTE-REY, Upper Califorivia, > 
October, 28th, 1836, 5 
Sir,— 
** We the undersigned American Residents, Masters and Supercar- 
goes of American vessels in Monte-rey, desire to return to you their 
humble arid grateful thanks for the lively interest you have been 
pleased to manifest for our commerce on this coast, and that on the 
representations of a number of residents and others at the Sand- 
wich Islands, you have been pleased to enter this port for the pro- 
tection of our interests, 

"We trust that we sufficiently appreciate the value to us of this 
visit so highly important t6 our affairs, and of the increased security 
we shall feel by your regard to our welfare. 

" The appearance of a U. S. ship of war on this coast, after so long 
an interval, and after so long an intercourse between our vessels 
and this territory, has been highly salutary, and permit us 'to say^ 
that we heartily and sincerely thank you. 

" May the remainder of your cruise be pleasant, and your return t» 
the United States all you could desire. 

Respectfully jours^, 
Nathan Spear. John Meek. 

F. D. Atherton, Thos. A. Norton^ 

Thos. 0. Larkin, a. G. Tomlinson, 

JosiAH Thompson. Jno. H. Everett. 

Wm. L. Hinckley, Edwd. H. Faucon^^ 

Wm. M. Warren,- Jos. CarteRo- 

William French." 
To Commodore Edmund P. Kennedy, 'J 
Commanding East India Station, U. L 
S» Ship Peacocks J 



65 



514 HISTORICAL SKETCH 



CHAPTER XLVIL 

SKETCHES IN THE CALIFORNIAS. 

NovemheVi 1836: 

Upper California is but little known. It extends from the forty- 
second parallel of north latitude as far south as San Diego, Lat. 32° 
39', N., and possesses a coast of five hundred and sixty-one miles. 
Its breadth is not defined. Lower California includes from the 
parallel of San Diego, all the peninsula which forms the gulf of Cali- 
fornia, or, as it is sometimes called by the old Spanish historians, the 
Hed Sea of Cortes. The southern cape of the peninsula is San 
Lucas, situated on the parallel of 22° 44' north latitude, and on the 
meridian of 109° 54' west from Greenwich. 

This country is named upon the ancient maps. New Albion^ Caro- 
line Islands^ and California. The last is the most ancient, and that 
which it still retains. For the name of New Albion, the country is 
indebted to Sir Francis Drake, who visited it in 1577, while perform- 
ing his second voyage round the world. The name of Islas Caro- 
linas or Caroline Isles was bestowed a hundred years afterwards in 
compliment to the king of Spain, Don Carlos the Second, because it 
was generally believed, until the year 1700, that California was one 
of a group of islands. At that period the Padre Eusebio Francisco 
Kino, a Jesuit missionary, discovered in one of his laborious excur- 
sions, that it is a peninsula. 

Under the belief that California was a large island of a group, it 
was spoken of in the plural; but the name, Californias now includes 
the two divisions known as Upper and Lower California.* 

*• Delighted would I be," says the Padre Venegas, '*to inform the 

• Notlcia de la California y de sa conquista temporal y espiritual hasta el 
tiempo presente. Sacada de la historia manuscrita, formada en Mexico, alio de 
1739 i por el Padra Miguel Venegas, &c. Madrid, 1757. 



©F THE CALIFOfiNIAS. 515 

curious, the origin and etymology of a name, which either from the 
extravagance of its sound, or the echo of real misfortune, or the fame 
of wealth, has become memorable in New Spain, and even in Europe. 
But I can only declare, that in no one of the native languages could 
the missionaries discover that any similar name is given to the land, 
nor to any bay, harbor or place in it. Yet I cannot adopt the ety- 
mology which some would assign, supposing the name was given by 
the Spaniards, who, experiencing, as is affirmed, an extraordinary 
heat on their first entry, called the country California from the Latin 
words, calida fornax—\\ot oven. 1 fear, however, that few will be 
disposed to accord so much grace in learning to the conquerors; and 
although Bernal Diaz del Castillo does not ({qvlj to Cortes the rare 
accomplishments among his companions of being a Latinist, a poet, 
and a bachelor in laws, we do not find that either he or his captains 
were in the habit of naming their discoveries after this plan. I 
judge, therefore, that this name had its origin in some accident, as 
might very well happen, such as among others, the words of the In- 
dians badly comprehended by the Spaniards, as occurred in the name 
of Peru." 

About the year 1522, after Montezuma had succumbed to the 
prowess of his arms and art, Hernan Cortes heard that the land ter- 
minated not far off, and did not doubt, but the great South Sea 
which washed its shores, led by a short route to the Spice Islands of 
the East, a great object of the adventure and enterprise of the times. 
He at once directed the building of two caravels and two brigs, and 
caused the sails, rigging, pitch, anchors, and all the necessary appa- 
ratus for ships, to be transported over land from Vera Cruz, a dis- 
tance of two hundred leagues to Zacatula, where every thing perish- 
able was lost in a conflagration. But this misfortune could not turn 
from its purpose the energetic mind of the conqueror of Mexico. 
Accordingly, we find him writing from Temixtitan, or Mexico, on 
*he 15th October, 1524, informing the Emperor Charles V., that he 
had already vessels constructed in the South Sea, which he designed 
to send in the month of July, of that year, to examine the coasts, 
north and south, with a hope of discovering the Strait of Mao-ellan. 
At the sam.e time he despatched vessels to examine the eastern coast 
of Mexico from Panuco to Florida.* 

Two or three expeditions proved to be failures from a want of har- 
mony among the officers, and in one vessel the commander, Becerraj 

* Cartas de Cortes, in Barcia's Collection. 



516 CORTES' EXPEDITION TO CALIFORNIA. 

was murdered by the pilot Ortun Ximenez. Afterwards the vessel 
reached a bay called Santa Cruz, supposed to be in the gulf of Cali- 
fornia, where Ximenez and twenty other Spaniards were killed by 
the natives. The sailors returned with the vessel to Chiametla, an- 
nouncing a populous land whose shores abounded in beds of glitter- 
ing pearls. 

Firmly persuaded in his opinion, that the Moluccas were not far 
distant from the western coast of Mexico, and between it and those 
he must discover rich islands and fertile lands, he resolved to make, 
in spite of all his misfortunes, a last attempt, but no longer to con- 
fide the enterprise to his captains. He announced his intended ex- 
pedition, and immediately crowds of Spaniards flocked to his stand- 
ard to follow the great conqueror. He directed three vessels which 
had been launched at Tehuantepec, to be armed and fitted, in a style 
which showed that he was to command. He ordered them to Chia- 
metla and went thither himself by land, accompanied by soldiers, 
clergymen and emigrants with their families. The vessels arrived 
at Chiametla, and that of Ortiin Ximenez, which was found upon the 
coast stripped of every thing, was also fitted. Cortes embarked witli 
as many people as the vessels would contain, leaving the remainder 
in charge of Andres de Tapia. He directed his course to the north- 
ward, and entered the gulf, which was called the Sea of Cortes, and 
sought the place where the Indians had killed Ortun Ximenez, and 
landed on the first day of May, 1536. He named it Sa»ta Cruz, 
and it is supposed to be the same known now as La Paz. He ordered 
the vessels back for those who had been left behind at Chiametla, and 
they arrived after much sulfering, almost exhausted from hunger, and 
found the soldiers in little better condition, as the country presented 
a. steril and ungrateful soil, yielding nothing for the sustenance of 
man. In such a strait Cortes did not long hesitate which course to 
adopt, but at once set sail in search of some who had been lost, and 
says Gomarra, crossing the sea, run down fifty leagues of its coast. 
After encountering many obstacles he found those whom he sought, 
and returned, after innumerable difficulties to the aid of the bay of 
Santa Cruz, where he (bund some had already perished of famine, 
and many died alter his arrival from over-eating. Then, says Bernal 
Diaz del Castillo, to avoid the sight of so much misery, Cortes set 
out in search of other lands. 

In the mean time it was rumored in New Spain, that Cortes had 
been murdered, and it was said, that all the Mexican Caciques in- 
tended to rebel, as his presence alone kept them in subjection. The 



OONqUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 517 

Marquesa Dona Juana de Zuiiiga, daughter of the Conde de Aguilar, 
niece of the Duke of Bejar and second wife of Cortes, despatched a 
caravel in search of him, and a request that he would return. Imme- 
diately afterwards she sent two other vessels with letters, from her- 
self, the Audiencia and the Viceroy Don Antonio Mendoza, in which 
they set forth the necessity of his presence in New Spain, as well 
for its tranquillity and good government, as to send the necessary 
succor, demanded by Francisco Pizarro, from Lima, where he was 
surrounded by innumerable hostile Indians. They besought him and 
even ordered him to return, which Cortes himself desired, for he was 
weary with contending in vain against sea and land, convinced, in 
spite of himself, that the great soldier on land cannot be the same 
also at sea. Perhaps he rejoiced to have so honorable a motive for 
abandoning an enterprise in which he had staked his credit, and re- 
turned to Acapulco in the beginning of the year 1537. He left 
Francisco Ulioa in charge of the people at Santa Cruz, who, seeino- 
that it was impossible to colonize or even maintain themselves in the 
country, soon deserted and also returned to Acapulco. 

In May, 1537, Cortes sent three vessels under the command of 
Francisco Ulloa, to follow up the coast. They proceeded as far up 
the gulf as 32° N. latitudei and returned, having seen nothing but 
barren hills and an inhospitable w^aste. In these fruitless expeditions 
the Viceroy expended no less than 200,000 ducats. 

In spite of failures and innumerable misfortunes, the spirit of ad- 
venture and the hope of wealth kept up for nearly two centuries a 
succession of enterprises for discovery and conquest in California. 
Cortes employed all his talents and energies on several occasions; 
many private individuals followed his examplei governors, admirals 
and viceroys were enlisted, and even the crown of Spain was finally 
drawn into preparing expeditions for the same purpose, but they all 
resulted in nothing. 

At the close of the seventeenth century, the Jesuit missionaries 
determined upon the spiritual conquest of a land, which had so lono- 
and so effectually resisted the temporal pov/er. Accordino-ly, after 
several years of preparation, in obtaining a license from the crown, 
two padres with a small escort set sail and landed in California on 
the 10th of October, 1697, a little to the northward of Loreto. After 
a long and painful endurance of privation and numerous strifes with 
the Indians, they succeeded in establishing two or three mission 
stations, which in the course of time became more numerous, and 
spread over the whole country, and at the time of the South Ameri- 



518 -LOWElt CALIFORNIA. 

can revolution might be considered in a tolerably flourishing condi- 
tion^ but that event has paralyzed the efforts of the church, and the 
missions are almost altogether abandoned. 

Lower California is very thinly peopled. The soil is steril, and 
badly watered, and no mines of importance have as yet been disco- 
vered. Its commerce is next to nothing. A few small craft visit San 
Lucas and La Paz, but they obtain very littlej even the water found 
at these ports is brackish and unwholesome. 

On one occasion a missionary chided the Indians for their miscon- 
duct at mass, threatening them with the flames of hell, which he de- 
picted in glowing language. To all this, one of the Indians re- 
marked, that hell must be a well wooded country to keep so great a 
fire; and in this respect, at least, a far more desirable land than Cali- 
fornia.* 

• Noticia de California, poy el padve Miguel Veixegas, 



SKETCHES IN MEXICO. 



MAZATLAN. 521 



CHAPTER XLVIIL 



SKETCHES IN MEXICO, 

November i 1836. 

On the 12th of November, we anchored in the roads of Mazatlan, 
Lat. 23° 10', N. Long. 106° 21' W.* 

The anchorage is about a mile and a half from the town, in an open 
roadstead which is obnoxious to gales from the south-east, from June 
until December^ The rainy season sets in about the month of June, 
and continues through July, August, and September, and sometimes 
October, during which period it is very unhealthy, particularly at the 
close of the rains, when the sun shines upon the low plains and swamps 
of the neighborhood. At this season, all those whose circumstances 
permit, retreat from Mazatlan to the mountainous regions of the in- 
terior. For this reason the population fluctuates from two to seven 
thousand. 

There were two Mexican schooners of war in the roads, their co- 
lors at half mast in token of the nation's sorrow and sympathy for 
the discomfiture and imprisonment of General Santa Anna, in Tex- 
as. But as far as we could ascertain, the General is very unpopular 
in all this section of Mexico. 

We learned that Captain Hollins, in the Enterprise, arrived here 
on the 29th of October, and had sailed on the sixth of November, 
for the port of Guaymas, up the gulf of California, in pursuance of 
the recommendation of the following letter, thinking that he would 
be able to return before our arrival at this place. But after contend- 

* This part of the coast is very inaccurately laid down on the charts. The la- 
titude above given is not far from the truth, thoug-h the chart places it in 23° 
18'. 

66 



522 mAzatlan. 

ing several days against the wind, which blew strongly down the gulf, 
he w^as compelled to return, but did not reach the anchorage before 
our departure. 

" CONSULTATE OF THE U. S. OF AmERICA, 

Port of Mazatlan, 

October 29, 1836. 
Sir, 
*' The arrival of the U. States Schooner Enterprise, under your com- 
mand, affords me an opportunity that has long been wanting, to re- 
commend to you the propriety of extending your visit to the port of 
Guaymas, where the flag of none of our vessels of war has ever yet 
been seen, and where there is a field gradually opening to the com- 
merce and manufactures of the country. 

** I avail myself of this occasion, to express to you the great plea- 
sure which your arrival in this port has afforded us, and to hope that 
henceforth the visits of our national vessels will not be so few and 
far between. 

I have the honor to remain, 

With sentiments of respect and esteem, 
Your most obedient servant, 

Samuel W. Talbot, 
Acting Consul, U. S. of America. 

To Capt. George N. Hollins, 
U. S. Schooner Enterprise." 

Though we find Mazatlan mentioned by writers more than a hun- 
dred years ago, its commercial importance dates its origin only about 
twelve years back. It is built upon a sandy plain, broken by small 
lagoons, and sheltered on the north by a high hill. It is situated on 
the margin of a pretty bay, which abounds in fish^ but is rendered 
inaccessible except to very small vessels, by a sand bar which 
stretches entirely across its entrance, and upon which, in gales, the 
sea breaks violently. 

The houses are all white, one story high, and built of adobes. The 
style of architecture is that which is common in all parts of Spanish 
America. A large proportion of the inhabitants are lodged in straw 
cabins, and live almost without what we consider the common ne- 
cessaries of life. Water is not easily procurable for ships, and fruit 
and vegetables are extremely scarce; pumpkins, beans and bananas 
are the only things of the sort found in the market. 



TRADE— A CONSULTATION. 523 

Since the year 1824 or 1825, a very lucrative trade has been car- 
ried on at Mazatlan in American and European goods, which are 
consumed by the inhabitants of the departments of Cinaloa and So- 
nora, who are chiefly miners. The only exports are silver in bul- 
lion and a small quantity of Brazil wood. 

We found two American merchants established in this miserable 
spot, and during our stay we had every reason to be gratified by the 
hospitable attentions extended to us. Early on a Sunday morning, 
the day after our arrival, one of these gentlemen sent on board to 
request me to visit a lady who v/as dangerously ill, and whose case 
admitted of no delay. I accompanied the messenger on shore and 
to the house of the patient. I was received by the family in the 
drawing-room, and at their request read a short statement of the 
case, which had been prepared by the attending physician. From 
it, I at once decided in my mind, that the lady, a sister-in-law of a 
distinguished Mexican General, must be in a very critical situation, 
if not beyond the art of medicine. She was young and handsome, 
the idol of her friends, and had been married scarcely a year. After 
reading the statement, which was in itself enough to convict the 
writer of gross mal-practice, I was requested to see the patient. 

I followed to a door, which, on knocking gently, was opened just 
wide enough for a young man to pass out his head. On perceiving 
me, he opened it, and admitted me^ but turned away the patient's 
sister, who had been my conductor. At first, I could scarcely see 
where I was, and some moments elapsed before I had gained my 
sight. I then found myself in a closed room, dimly lighted by a 
slender tallow candle. I was seated with the doctor near a hand- 
somely curtained bed. At the opposite end of the apartment, two or 
three females, probably neighbors, were speaking very cheerfully in 
loud whispers. 

After taking two or three hearty puffs at his cigar, as if to ensure 
its inflammation while talking, the doctor began^ " Puez Senor, 
esta Sefiora — Well, sir, this ladyj" and went on to state in prolix 
detail, that his patient, who had been en cinta for eight months, was 
attacked four or five days previously, with ague and fever, and, see- 
ing no other possible means of relieving her of the disease, he had 
resorted to mechanical means and provoked parturition. This part 
of the treatment had been easily accomplished, but por acaso — by 
chance, the fever became remittent, and then continued, accompa- 
nied by mania and convulsions. When he concluded the history 
I inquired, " Well, sir, how is the lady now?" 



524 PROGNOSIS. 

" Puez Hombre! ya se ha muerto dos horas, en unas convulsiones 
espantables — Why, man! she died two hours ago, in frightful con- 
vulsions." 

" The family does not know it?" 

" No, Senor, and I do not intend to tell them yet." 

I was silent in astonishment. As the doctor ceased speaking, he 
rose and requested me to look for myself. I followed to the bed. 
He raised the curtain, and with perfect sang froid filliped the nose 
of his late patient. I beheld the body of the deceased, bearing evi- 
dent signs of a violent death. The arms had been blistered from the 
wrists to the shoulders, and the doctor declared that he had applied 
blisters wherever he could possibly place them; *' but as you see, Se- 
nor, it was no use," shrugging his shoulders, drawing down the cor- 
ners of his mouth, and throwing his head to one side, by which pecu- 
liar gesture he designed to say he had done his best, and there was 
no help. 

He then stated, that in order to spare the family the shock which 
they must experience, to be suddenly informed of the lady's death, 
he wished to impart to them the sad intelligence by degrees. I was 
too much disgusted to speak; but left the apartment, followed by the 
professional man. The family avi^aited us in the drawing-room, and 
by looks rather than words, inquired my opinion. I could only re- 
gret I had arrived at too late a period to be of any service. 

" It is my opinion," interrupted the doctor, '^ that there is no hope 
—indeed, the disease has reached a crisis. You see there was, 
(counting on his fingers) first, intermittent fever, then remittent fe- 
ver, then continued fever, upon which supervened gastritis, enteritis, 
hepatitis, peritonitis and a nervous grade of typhus fever, for which 
the most active stimulants were indicated. This you know, Senor, is 
a critical day, the ninth, and it is my settled opinion that she must 
die precisely at eleven o'clock— a las once en punto. — " It was 
then nine. I said not a word, but took my leave, filled with disgust 
and indignation at the barefaced ignorance, and knavish effrontery 
practised before me. 

The prognostic of the doctor, very much to his credit, of course 
proved true; and about twelve o'clock, invitations were issued to at- 
tend the funeral, to take place at sunset the same day. About five 
o'clock, P. M. a number of gentlemen, all neatly dressed in black, 
gathered in front of the house, each one armed with a spermaceti 
candle. 

At the appointed hour the body was placed upon a bedstead, very 



FUNERAL. 525 

tastefully ornamented with black plumes, flowers and white lace, 
and borne on men's shoulders to the place of interment, preceded by 
a large company of gentlemen, but no ladies. They formed a single 
file on each side of the street, each bearing a candle, which was now 
lighted. The burial ground was half a mile distant. It was just 
sunset. No priest was present to perform the service of the dead, 
and it is very remarkable, that in a catholic town, where the popula- 
tion was estimated at four thousand, there is neither priest nor church. 
The remains of the lady were deposited in solemn silence on a hill- 
side, and after the grave was filled up, the company dispersed. 

The Sabbath is in no manner observed at Mazatlan, unless it be 
that the evening is devoted to the fandango, which is publicly danced 
beneath a shed in the suburbs, where most of the population resort. 
The ground is covered by tables of bon-bons, illuminated by paper 
lanterns; and what with music, and lights, and dancing, the scene is 
not wanting either in mirth or interest. 

P. S. Since the above was written, the ports of Huatulco Manza- 
nilla, Natividad, Mazatlan, La Paz, Loreto, San Diego, and San 
Francisco have been closed to foreign commerce, by a decree of the 
Mexican government, to take effect six months after March 2nd, 1837. 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

SKETCHES IN MEXICO, 

November f 1836. 

At sunset, on the 15th of November, the Peacock got under way; 
and on the 18th, at half past eight o'clock A. M., anchored in the 
roads of San Bias, situated in latitude 21° SO' north, and 104° 50' 
west longitude. 

At this point the coast forms a deep bend or cove, but in extent 
too great to give much shelter to the anchorage, which at certain 
seasons is considered unsafe. The shore, as far as the eye can reach 
along the coast, presents a plain, varying from ten to fifteen miles in 



526 SAN BLAS. 

breadth, and extending between a point a little to the southward of 
Mazatlan to cape Corrientes, a distance of nearly two hundred and 
fifty miles. A chain of mountains, averaging four thousand feet high, 
forms the limits of the plain on the east, while the west is laved by 
the waters of the Pacific. It is covered by a luxuriant vegetation 
and a variety of trees; and throughout its extent is watered by nu- 
merous rivers, the largest called Santiago, which take their rise in 
the mountains above alluded to. In many places near the sea, the 
flooding tide permeates the loose sandy soil, and, rising to the surface, 
forms marshes and lagoons, which, under a tropical sun, become 
fruitful sources of miasmatic exhalations. Accordingly, we find, 
at the conclusion of the rainy season, which is from June until Octo- 
ber, that intermittents, dysentery and typhoid fevers prevail to a 
great extent, and San Bias is almost entirely deserted. 

The town of San Bias is hidden from the anchorage in a forest of 
closely growing trees. It is situated about two hundred yards from 
the landing, which is up a strait or sound, a quarter of a mile from 
the sea. The houses are generally mean, cheerless huts, and the 
streets are narrow and sandy. Its population seldom exceeds one 
thousand souls. "^ 

The view from the ship is pleasant; the leafy green of the plain, 
bounded by long white sand beaches, broken occasionally by rocky 
hills, rising from the surface, and the mountains in the back ground, 
half concealed in vapory clouds, form a scene far more cheerful than 
that at Mazatlan. 

The shores abound in a great variety of beautiful shells. The 
Venus dione is found in great numbers; and the common people, as 
well as some intelligent foreigners, state that they are found in 
greater abundance in some seasons than in others. Of this fact 
there seems to be little question; and we might infer therefrom that 
they are migratory in their habits and resort to the shores for the 
purpose of procreation. 

The commerce of the place, being the chief port of the department 
of Guadalaxara, which contains a large population, is considerable. 
Its exports consist entirely of bullion, which is smuggled on board 
of English men-of-war, one visiting the port yearly about the month 
of February for the purpose. 

In the prosperous days of the Mexican viceroys, San Bias, known 
in early times, probably, as the port of Xalisco, was of considerable 
importance. It had a dock-yard, and arsenals provided with stores 
for building and refitting vessels, the ruins of which establishment 



RIDE TO TEPIC. 59.7 

are still seen. But it was not until after the commencement of the 
revolution of Mexico that it enjoyed any commercial consideration. 
When Vera Cruz and the Atlantic ports were in the power of the 
Spaniards, in order to supply themselves with foreign productions, 
the patriots opened a trade from Chagres and Porto Bello over land to 
Panama, and thence to San Bias, whence goods were transported to 
Tepic, Guadalaxara, Mexico, and indeed throughout the Republic. 
This over land commerce was expensive, and in order to lessen the 
cost of goods to the consumer, the ports of Mazatlan and Guaymas 
were resorted to by many vessels. But as the state of things which 
led to this indirect commerce no longer exists, the value and extent 
of the trade have dwindled away, because the population of the dis- 
tricts of Mexico bordering the Pacific is too small, too poor and too 
little refined to consume any considerable supplies, brought direct 
from India and China, or around Cape Horn. Two or three entire 
cargoes a year would probably supply the demand: more than this 
would scarcely yield a profit. 

One of the objects of our visit to San Bias, was to land an officer 
who had been long in ill health. He was too feeble to sit a horse or 
mule, and it was therefore necessary that he should be transported 
to Tepic in a litter. After some little difficulty, we mustered twelve 
men, who agreed to carry the litter for one hundred and eight dol- 
lars: though they were then idle, and usually worked for less than a 
dollar a day, they thought nine times this sum was small compensa- 
tion for two days' labor. 

On Saturday, the 19th of November, at twenty minutes past two 
o'clock, P. M., we set oft". The road led over a plain, many places 
knee deep in mud and water; at best it is only a rough bridle-path, 
shaded by the branches of trees, thickly growing on each side, and 
interlocking over head. At night we were favored by a bright moon, 
but this did not protect us from disagreeable incidents. Sand-flies 
and mosquitos assailed us from all sides, and in one place we rode 
a mile through a swamp knee deep to the horses. Here one of the bag- 
gage-mules strayed into the thicket, which caused some delay. The 
woods rang with the maledictory shouts of the muleteer and the en- 
couraging cries of the litter-bearers, and for twenty minutes the sand- 
flies and mosquitos performed their divertissemens piqiians, much to 
our annoyance and expense. At last the mule made his appearance, 
moving at a leisurely pace, in spite of cudgeling and curses, which, 
from long habit, he had learned to bear with meek indifference. 

It was now eight o'clock at night, and we again moved on, en- 



528 RANCHO DE MANUELA. 

couraged by the declarations of the muleteer, as well as of the guide, 
that we had not more than a league and a half to ride, before we 
should reach the halting place for the night. We crossed a deep 
brook, and found ourselves on firmer ground and on a better road| 
and, with the view of making all ready for the reception of our sick 
friend, pushed on at a trot. This league and a half led us past seve- 
ral ranchos, where we were saluted by dogs; and it was eleven o'clock 
before we reached what is termed the Rancho de Manuela, a mise- 
rable farm house, where travellers usually stop, but where they ob- 
tain very little accommodation. We entered the ruined gate, and 
found several men, rolled in their sarapes, — a long poncho — sleep- 
ing on the ground in front of the house. At a few yards distant from 
them, was placed a number of pack saddles, ranged in regular lines, 
guarded by dogs. We were directed to call at a hut of the esta- 
blishment, on our right, where the hostess had retired for the night. 
Our guide explained our situation and our wants, and after some 
little delay she opened the door, — a fat, nut brown widow of forty, — 
and issued forth with a candle in her hand, which, for a moment, she 
held above her head to see what manner of guests we were, and then 
crossed the area to the main building. We found two or three stout 
muleteers asleep in the apartment, but the hostess compelled them to 
vacate in our favor, and then retired, leaving us the light. Antonio, 
our guide, a thin-visaged, half Indian person, bustled about, un- 
saddled our horses, and made a fire; and soon after the arrival of our 
sick friend, gave us some tea and fresh eggs, which, added to sun- 
dries from our scrip, furnished forth no despicable repast to men 
whose appetite had grown on a long fast, stimulated by a ride of ten 
leagues. 

The floor was the hard-beaten earth. Our apartment contained, 
besides a rude table and three or four heavy chairs, three board plat- 
forms, which were to be our beds, unless we came provided. It was 
long past midnight before we retired, and when the candle was ex- 
tinguished, the moon found her way through the walls, which were 
composed of upright posts, driven into the ground. Our beds were 
hard; the air was rather cool; mosquitos, sand-flies, and fleas, were 
heard and felt; yet, in spite of all, we fell asleep, lulled by the sound 
of our horses and mules, discussing their fodder and corn only a few 
feet from us. 

At four o'clock the next morning, the watchful Antonio brought a 
light, and roused us to prepare to set forward again. A breakfast of 
Pouchong and eggs, fresh as the morning, and boiled not a single 



LEAVE MANUELA. 529 

bubble too much, was placed before us; and by the time we had 
finished our meal, and got the horses saddled, the moon and stars 
had faded from the skies, and it was broad day light. Our sick friend 
set forward in his litter, and we remained to bring up the baggage- 
mules. 

The muleteers were now on their feet; and while some were rub- 
bing sleep from their eyes, others were loading their beasts. Close 
to a shed, near the gate, stood a well-conditioned mule, with the 
reins hanging on the ground, looking as if he had been unwillingly 
deprived of slumber. The trappings and ornamented caparisons of 
the animal showed that the master was a man well to do in the world, 
and who cared a good deal for comfort and something for appear- 
ances. Presently, he issued from the rancho, and stood smoking a 
paper cigar, the end bent downwards, while he cast a thoughtful 
glance towards the rising sun. This individual was not more than 
five feet six inches in height, but well proportioned, and his frame 
promised strength and activity. A broad-brimmed, low-crowned 
hat of felt, ornamented by three turns of a jaunty gold cord, shaded 
a deeply bronzed face. His eyes were sharp, and surmounted by 
heavy black brows; the upper lip sustained proudly a pair of curling 
mustaches, and the growth upon his chin indicated that he had been 
on the road more than a day. The costume was to us novel. A 
jacket of embossed russet leather, very short in its fashion, or- 
namented with silver buttons; a pair of overalls of the same mate- 
rial, cut at bottom so wide as to be the length of the foot, were sus- 
tained by a red silk sash above the waist, allowing the shirt to ap- 
pear between it and the jacket, and a pair of huge silver spurs rattled 
at his heels. A long straight sword hung from hip to heel, which 
might have served a Paladin; it was evidently for service: the scab- 
bard was of plain black leather, and a thong or noose of the same, 
to secure it to the wrist, swung from the hilt. 

" I should expect to find a bandit in such a man," said my com- 
panion; and I wondered what he could be waiting for. At that mo- 
ment he made a slight salutatory inclination of the head. I advanced 
towards him, saying, " You have a fine macho there, Senor?" 

*' Yes, Senor, the beast is not a bad one, and — raising his hat high 
above his head — very much at your service." 

After accepting his invitation to take ** un traguito de mascal per 
las nieblas de la manana — a small swallow of mascal for the morn- 
ing fogs," he informed me in the course of conversation, that he re- 
sided near Tepic, and was on his way to Santiago, with his mules, 
67 



530 ANTONIO RANCHO D£ GUTIERREZ. 

laden with corn. He kindly suggested that we should stop at his 
house to rest, and requested that we would demand there whatever 
we might desire. 

Our muleteer had already disappeared up the mountain side, and An- 
tonio called us to mount. We obeyed the summons, and, receiving the 
god-speed of the traveller, followed. The character of the road had 
entirely changed. The path, still shaded by trees, chiefly of the Aca- 
cia tribe, was rugged and frequently interrupted by boulders of por- 
phyritic stone. Our progress was necessarily slow, and gave us full 
time to listen to the stories of Antonio, or the song of our muleteer, 
in which he frequently stopped short to bestow a blow of his cudgel, 
and some round objurgations, to mend the pace of his mules. In 
spite of all his epithets and beating, the animals were stimulated only 
for a short time, and relapsing in their leisurely steps, again required 
their application. 

Antonio rode on before, mounted upon a thin gray mare. His en- 
tire dress consisted of a pair of duck trousers, a cotton shirt which 
revealed his tawny skin in several places about the shoulders, and a 
broad-brimmed hat slouched over his face. His stirrups were very 
short, and one naked heel was armed with an iron spur, which was 
pretty constantly used, and he seemed buried almost to the shoul- 
ders in bags, and cloaks, and bottles, that were secured to the sad- 
dle. I soon discovered that Antonio was the only leech in San Bias, 
and possessed of all the gossip of the road. Every one who met us 
seemed right glad to see him, and saluted him with the kindly appel- 
lation of " compadre " — friend or god-father. We passed many rude 
crosses, set up on heaps of stones by the way-side, to commemorate 
the perpetration of murder on the spot, and Antonio was ever ready 
to recount the history of these sad events, the most recent of which 
had taken place more than fifteen years back, at a time when this 
road, called El Espino, was frequently travelled by mules laden with 
treasure. 

Though we frequently descended into valleys, the ascent was con- 
tinuous. At eleven o'clock, A. M. we entered a scattering village, 
named La Presa, or Rancho de Gutierrez, situated in a barren vale; 
and here it was determined, that we should breakfast. But the place 
could boast no inn, no house of common resort, and in order to find 
some spot where to bivouac, Antonio rode from hut to hut, inquiring 
whether they had any eggs, and at each one generally obtained a few. 
When his hat was full, he halted before a rancho, which promised 
most accommodation, and requested permission to cook the eggs as 



BREAKFAST MEXICAN LIEUTENANT. 531 

well as to take shelter beneath a shed of thatch in front. This was 
hospitably conceded, and we at once dismounted. 

The host and hostess were sitting upon a dry bull hide spread on 
the ground, alternately scrutinizing each other's heads, while their 
fingers held aside their uncombed locks to facilitate the operation. 
Both rose, and the man brought us seats, while the woman, more 
thoughtful of our wants, called two or three boys, and with their aid 
succeeded in cornering two or three half-grown chickens, which she 
speedily had frying over a fire. By the time our sick friend had come 
up, breakfast was ready, but the house furnished forth few appli- 
ances of the table; one tumbler, one tea-cup, two knives, and a half 
dozen plates, being all we could muster. While eating, a number of 
lank curs gathered around, and almost took the food from the table 
in spite of us. The misery of the poor in Spanish countries may be 
estimated with tolerable accuracy, by the number of dogs they en- 
tertain. 

No sooner had the litter bearers arrived, than they sat down upon 
the ground a few feet from us, and made their breakfast of thin cakes 
of maize, tortillas, and charque — jerked beef — toasted over a fire. 
These provisions each one had tied in a handkerchief; and the bun- 
dles were all carried together in panniers on a jackass. When they 
had finished their humble fare, they stretched themselves on the ground 
in the shade, smoked paper cigars, and chatted cheerfully, till they 
fell asleep. 

Just as we finished our meal, a lieutenant of the Mexican army, 
attended by a servant and a lancer, rode up to the hut and requested 
to be accommodated with breakfast. The costume of Mexico is pic- 
turesque. This gentleman wore a broad-brimmed glazed hat, with a 
silver stud upon one side of it, a short jacket, a pair of overalls trimmed 
with round silver buttons from the hips to the heels, which were armed 
with large spurs. No sooner had he alighted than these were removed 
by his servant. The horses were unsaddled, and the party sat down 
and began smoking paper cigars. He had left Tepic four hours before, 
and was on his way to Santiago. He remarked, that in order to avoid 
the bad effects of the cold mountain winds upon our sick friend, we 
ought not to enter Tepic in the evening, and if we were forced to do 
it, we should be " medio trastornado de aguardiente — half upset with 
brandy." 

At one o'clock we again set off, leaving the Mexican at breakfast, 
and soon began to ascend the side of a barren hill. Half way up we 
passed a collection of huts, called "el pueblo de Lajitas." The 



532 TORTILLAS SAN JUAN. 

road was now much more frequented, and we met numbers of droves 
of mules laden with corn. One mule at least in each drove carried 
a small stone traj, used in making tortillas, having legs of such 
length that when set upon a level, the traj itself stood at an inclined 
plane with the horizon. Later in the evening we saw the bivouacs 
of the muleteers by the road; the pack-saddles were ranged in a row 
bj the way-side, and while the men were caring for their mules or 
lying on the ground smoking paper cigars, the women were making 
tortillas. 

To make tortillas, almost the only bread used in this part of the 
country, the corn is first infused in cold water with a small portion of 
lime, to remove the outer coat or pericarp. It is then placed upon 
the stone tray, and the woman kneeling in front, by the aid of a 
stone cut for the purpose, reduces it to a paste, which is then beaten 
to a proper thickness between the palms, and baked upon a slone 
girdle. 

When we reached the summit of the hill upon which Lajitas is 
situated, we looked back, and being at least three thousand feet 
above the level of the sea, had a bird's-eye view of the plain we had 
traversed the evening before. It appeared of a dark green, with here 
and there a patch of white sand, or a silvery thread of water mean- 
dering towards the sea. One or two islands upon the coast were 
dimly seen, and the horizon seemed to be formed in a line whereon 
were blended the plain, the ocean, and sky. 

The valleys in sight now began to wear the smiling features of 
cultivation, and Palo Alto and La Meda, two picturesquely situated 
hamlets, presented a cheerful and comparatively thriving appearance. 
The little fruit shops and tippling shops were open; the usual work 
was going forward; and nothing indicated that the day was the Sab- 
bath. We now came in sight of a depression or gap in the moun- 
tain chain — in the Alps termed a col — through which the road disap- 
peared from our view. On our right the mountain of San Juan rose 
slopingly, perhaps, two thousand five hundred feet above the road, 
but the elevation to the left was very much less. The peak of San 
Juan was clothed in green to its summit, which is, according to Cap- 
tain Beechey, by trigonometrical measurement six thousand two hun- 
dred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. Just beyond this 
col^ Antonio informed us, was Tepic, and as we had ridden at a 
pretty good pace, w^e were in advance of our sick friend. We, 
therefore halted, and sat down by the road-side, where Antonio in 
terested us for an hour with a detailed account of a French seaman, 



THE CITY OF TEPIC. 533 

whom I had seen at San Bias. He had been disemboweled by a 
knife, in an aftVay with a Mexican, three weeks before, and the in- 
testine had not been rejilaced. Antonio declared that he did not 
know what to do in such a case, but knowing that brandy was good 
for fresh wounds, he had washed this one freely, and bound it up 
with a bandage; but the Frenchman, impatient of the pain, very soon 
removed it. When I saw the case, it was in my opinion hopeless. 

At sunset my sick friend came up, and we pushed on. The moon, 
nearly at her full, rose very clear, and when we descended upon the 
plain of Tepic, I was almost certain we were riding upon a bed of 
chalk. We were informed that it was marie. The road was crossed 
in several places by broad ravines, from twenty to forty feet in depth, 
with perpendicular sides, which had been formed, evidently, by tor- 
rents. In one or two places, the road ran along the bottom of these 
ravines for a mile. In passing the co/, or mountain gap, the soil was 
softer than it was in any part of the road which approached San 
Juan from San Bias, after leaving La Presa. This would seem to 
be in accordance with the remarks of Mr. Robert Bakewell in rela- 
tion to the Alps.* 

When about three miles off, we saw a white haze, which Antonio 
said hung over the town. At seven o'clock we entered Tepic, and 
were followed by hundreds of dogs, all barking and growling, and 
snapping at our horses' heels, as we rode through the streets to the 
cxfrner of the plaza, where we were hospitably received and enter- 
tained in the house of our countryman, Mr. J. L. Kennedy. Our 
sick friend had not suffered by the journey, which by the road of El 
Espino is at least seventy miles. The other road, called Los palos 
de tres Marias is fifty miles; but is so narrow that a litter could not 
pass. The bearers had kept up with us remarkably well, and on 
their arrival manifested signs of very little fatigue. 

The city of Tepic stands on a plain, forming tiie bottom of a pla- 
teau or basin, nearly surrounded by mountains. The soil is fertile, 
and the surrounding scenery agreeable. The city, according to 
Captain Beechey, is two thousand nine hundred feet above the sea, 
in 21° 30' 42"" north latitude, and twenty-two miles in a direct line 
to the eastward of San Bias, though more than double that distance 
by either road. At present, it is estimated to contain from ten to 
twelve thousand inhabitants. The streets are paved, and cross at 
right angles. Most of the houses are but one story high. The 

♦ Bakewell's Geology, p. 353. New Haven, 1833. 



534 TEPIC— XALISCO. 

plaza, or public square, has a portico on one side of it, and the church 
on the other, and is ornamented by trees and stone seats in their 
shade. The town contains a theatre and a cock-pit, and the people 
are famed for hospitality and sociability. 

Tepic was founded towards the close of the seventeenth century, 
at the time of establishing the dock -yard or marine department at 
San Bias, as a place of resort for the officers during the rainy and 
sickly seasons. But Tepic does not boast a climate remarkable for 
salubrity. There are several swamps and lagoons in its vicinity, and, 
at certain seasons, it is obnoxious to marsh fevers of a typhoid cha- 
racter, intermittents and dysenteries. Yet at a short distance of 
two leagues, there is an ancient Indian village, Xalisco, which is so 
healthy as to be the resort of invalids from Tepic. The temperature 
at this season ranges from 60° to 70° F. 

The day of our arrival was a feast day of the church, and the whole 
world had gone to Xalisco to celebrate it in a bull-bait and ball; and 
the next day being rainy they did not return, so we saw Tepic under 
unfavourable circumstances. The following day, however, we rode 
to Xalisco. We mounted at six o'clock A. M. and found the morn- 
ing pleasant, and the ride agreeable. At the entrance of the village 
we passed the plaza de toros, which had been temporarily erected 
for the occasion, of palm leaves and branches; and if we may believe 
those who were present, answered the purpose of the entertainment 
admirably well. We visited the church, and were showed a stone 
in the wall, bearing a very perfect foot track, which is said to be 
that of San Matias. This impression was probably made when the 
stone, the character of which was concealed beneath a coat of white- 
wash, was soft. The population of Xalisco does not exceed fifteen 
hundred. It is pleasantly situated, and is supplied with water from 
a mountain by a wooden conduit, several miles in length, supported 
on posts about five feet high. 

We breakfasted with the British consul, Mr. Barron and his in- 
teresting family, and at twelve o'clock took leave of them, regretting 
that we were not allowed a longer time to enjoy their very agreeable 
society. In order to spare our horses, Mr. Barron very kindly sent 
us to town in his carriage, drawn by seven mules, guided by two 
postillions. 

At two o'clock, P. M. we took leave of Tepic, and returned by 
the shorter road of Los Palos, and reached Manuela at eight o'clock. 
We found a party of muleteers in the apartment we had occupied in 
the rancho, gambling at cards for copper cuartillos, the fourth part of 



RETURN TO SAN BLAS. 535 

twelve and a half cents. Our hostess cleared the apartment, telling 
them, that some *' caballeros decentes — decent gentlemen," wanted it. 
Thej retreated, muttering a little, but were speedily seated round a 
dry bull hide upon the ground in the open air, where they resumed 
their game by the dim light of a tallow candle. The lady of Manuela 
made many kind inquiries about our sick friend, and soon gave us a 
very good supper, after which we retired to sleep without bed or bed- 
ding. The blithe humor of the hostess encouraged me to beg some- 
thing to make my bed on the boards a little more comfortable, and 
she cheerfully complied with the request, remarking at the same 
time, that we ought never to travel without a blanket or a sarape at 
least. She departed, and in a few minutes returned with a bull hide, 
which she spread on the boards for a bed, and over it a sarape. It 
is true I fell asleep in spite of fleas, sand flies and mosquitos, and 
the incessant champ, champ, of our horses feeding close at hand; but 
in the morning I was not clearly satisfied that a dry bull hide is a 
better bed than a soft plank. 

At four o'clock the next morning we were on the road. It had 
rained heavily in the night; the moon had not yet set, and we tra- 
velled by her light until her beams were dissipated by those of the 
morning sun. After a ride of ten leagues we reached San Bias, at 
ten o'clock, A. M., and at once embarked. 



536 



HARBOR OF ACAPULCO. 



CHAPTER L. 

SKETCHES IN MEXICO. 

December, 1836. 

On the twenty third of November, at one o'clock, P. M., we made 
sail for Acapulco, in order to fill up with water, which on no other 
part of this coast is to be had without diflBcultji here it is of an ex- 
cellent quality and easily obtained. 

The winds were light, and we had occasional showers. On the 
second of December, we were becalmed in sight of the shore, which, 
close to the sea was richly verdant in cultivated fields, and in the 
rear, the mountains rose at least 10,000 feet high. At half past ele- 
ven o'clock the next morning, we anchored in the harbor of Acapulco, 
so celebrated in the palmy days of Spain, as the port of her richly 
freighted galeons, that swept the Pacific between Mexico and Ma- 
nila. The season of their arrival and sojourn here, was held as a fair, 
at which assembled the wealthy and the beautiful from all parts of 
Mexico. Here the silver of her mines and the cochineal of her fields 
of cactus were exchanged for the spices and muslins of India, the 
silks and fabrics of China, and the tobacco of the Philippines. On 
those occasions the little town of Acapulco was enlivened by feasts 
and dancing, and all was holyday. But Time, which changes all 
things, has also changed this. Since 1817, no galeon has appeared 
in this beautiful bay, which is shut in from all winds by mountains of 
granite, several hundred feet high. Their sides are clothed in the 
richest green 5 and the margins of these ever peaceful waters abound 
in an almost endless variety of moluscous animals. Since the com- 
mencement of the revolution, Acapulco has been the scene of a con- 
stant succession of war, siege and famine^ and at present its com- 



TOV/N OF ACArULCO. 537 

merce is at the lowest ebb, being seldom visited except by a few tri- 
fling coasters. 

The town, which is surrounded by swamps and stagnant pools in 
the neighborhood, is small, miserable, and unhealthy at certain sea- 
sons. Its population is now estimated at 3,000, which it is asserted, 
is greater than it ever was, at any time, previous to the political se- 
paration of Mexico from Spain. With a few exceptions, the inhabi- 
tants are descended from Chinese, Malays, Mexican aborigines, 
negroes and Europeans, all promiscuously mingled, forming a small, 
feeble race of very poor people. 

The place is defended by a castle which was once, like all Spanish 
fortresses, thought to be impregnable; but sieges, earthquakes, and 
neglect have left it a mere ruin. According to a statement of the 
governor, the guns were overturned in attempting to return our sa- 
lute, but we were afterwards told, that after firing seven guns, all 
the powder was expended, and His Excellency thought it would ap- 
pear more respectable to say, the guns were dismounted, and, there- 
fore, no more could be fired. 

Bowditch lays down Acapulco in 16° 55^ N. and 100° 54' longi- 
tude west; but according to our reckoning, it is 16° 51' 30'^ north, 
and in longitude 100° 8' west from Greenwich, differing not only 
from Bowditch but from Arrowsmith's charts, which we found, as 
well as every one who visits the coast, to be very far in error, not 
only at this point, but along the whole Mexican coast. 

One morning, I visited the shore before daylight. The church 
was open; bells were ringing, and rockets were firing in celebration 
of the day of " la purisima concepcion." A small altar was placed 
in the door-way, before which the Cura was officiating in his robes, 
though the day was not yet fairly broken. More than a hundred 
people of all ages and sexes, were seen kneeling in groups upon the 
ground in front of the church; while others, at a little distance, were 
standing respectfully uncovered, with their ponchos or sarapes closely 
vi^rapped about them. Those who were kneeling, placed their broad 
felt hats behind them upon their legs; and beside almost every fe- 
male was a plate containing a few coppers. The picture was filled 
up by the mules and asses of the market people, standing here and 
there, half asleep, among the several groups. The service lasted 
till sunrise, and when it ended with the merry peal of bells, the 
scene suddenly changed. The market people spread out what 
they had for sale, and the women seized their plates and coppers, 
68 



538 USE OF TOBACCO MARKET. 

and went to purchasing, and the men sauntered about smoking 
cigars. 

Smoking tobacco is universal with both sexes. Visiting on one 
occasion a high officer of the government, I found him and his wife 
in the same hammock, while the children were running about the 
room, and all the family smoking. One little girl, only three years 
and two months old, was smoking a Guayaquil cigar, at least four 
inches long, and apparently with gusto. I know it is the practice of 
most travellers to condemn the use of tobacco in all forms in all 
countries, but I fear their strictures will do little to change a habit 
which is so universal. Staunton tells us, there is no record of to- 
bacco having been introduced into China, and we are informed, that 
the Portuguese met with it on their first visit to Java. It is now 
used throughout Asia, Africa, America, and in a great part of Eu- 
rope. If it were truly indigenous to America alone, it has spread 
over the world with an astounding rapidity, for its use is now more 
general than that of tea. We know that tobacco was first intro- 
duced into Europe from America; but it was probably known in Asia 
long before the voyages of Columbus were undertaken. If smoking 
cigars be a sin,— God help the wicked. 

The market of Acapulco affords a variety of vegetables and fruits, 
as pumpkins, onions, sweet potatoes, (which when boiled are of a 
deep purple color,) tomatoes, peppers, limes, sweet lemons, pine-ap- 
ples, oranges, bananas, melons, guayavas, &c., but not in great abun- 
dance, nor at a cheap rate. The beef is good, and the poultry 
obtained here, for richness of flavor, is probably not equalled in any 
part of the world. 

As at the other ports of Mexico which we had visited, we here 
found the colors flying at half mast, in sympathy for the more than 
half fallen fortunes of General Santa Ana. Yet to hear some of 
the Mexicans upon this coast speak of him, one might suppose he 
had not a friend in the republic. 

From the earliest struggle for her independence, Mexico has been 
unfortunate in her leading men. With some few exceptions, they 
have proved the hasty exclamation of Dr. Johnson, that " patriotism 
is the last refuge of a scoundrel," to have some foundation in truth. 
It has but too frequently happened, that not the nation's good, but 
personal wealth and eclat have been the objects aimed at by this 
class of great men. But they have been often mal-adroitj and at 
the moment they fancied themselves on the very brink of fortune, 



MEXICO AND MEXICANS. 539 

the tyranny and injustice of their acts towards the people have re- 
coiled upon themselves; for there is a point in oppression beyond 
which the people of no country will bear, and they have been preci- 
pitated from the height of power, to expiate their crimes upon a 
scaiFold, or in a gloomy exile. This shows that public virtue still 
exists, though it struggle with numerous instances of private vice 
and degeneracy. 

But it has not been in her leading men alone that Mexico has been 
unfortunate. Her custom-house officers are notoriously open to 
bribes. The duties are so exorbitant on foreign merchandise that 
no commerce paying them can thrive; and the officers of the cus- 
toms, aware of this, very patriotically make such arrangements with 
supercargoes arriving in their ports as will secure a profit to the 
merchant, and something for the republic, as they emphatically style 
it, and no less for themselves. The naval and military officers are 
said to be no less discerning of their own interests at least. I have 
been assured that commanding officers of marine establishments are 
wont to sell the public stores in their charge to private vessels, and 
consider the proceeds as the perquisites of office. Officers of the 
army commanding posts have done no less. An English gentleman, 
who has been long in the country, engaged in mining, told me that, 
on one occasion, he purchased some powder for blasting, and, in a 
few minutes afterwards, met the commander of the place, with whom 
he was on intimate terms. 

" Amigo," exclaimed the soldier, *' sois mui ingrato en no dar a 
mi la preferencia — Friend, in not giving me the preference, you have 
been ungrateful." 

*• The preference in what?" 
** In the powder." 

*' I did not know you had powder for sale." 
" But I have though, in the arsenal, when a friend wants to buy; 
I would have sold to you at half price. " 

A governor of a place on this coast actually offered to sell, to the 
master of an American merchant ship, the brass guns of the fortress 
under his command. 

The officers of the Mexican government, along the coast of the 
Pacific, are generally ignorant, and, in their deportment, tyrannical 
and overbearing. The Governor of Acapulco is a man who has risen 
from the rank and file of the army through his personal courage; he 
can neither read nor write. Public and private virtue, among them, 
is only a name, but urbanity is every thing. Though the Mexican 



540 MEXICO AND MEXICANS. . 

officer would pillage the government, he would never be guilty of a 
breach of decorum or etiquette; and, to send him a despatch, written 
on paper, without a proper margin, the width of which must be one- 
fourth or one-half of the sheet, according to the rank of the individul 
to whom it is addressed, would, probably, wound his honor more than 
to call him scoundrel, or tweak his nose. 

Though this be not the character of the Mexicans in general, it is 
to be feared that such is its hue in but too many instances. Of course, 
there are thousands belonging to the republic whose morals are un- 
impeachable; but such men, I am assured by many who have had 
ample opportunities of knowing, are not found in the public offices: 
they live in retirement, lamenting the evils they cannot remedy. 

Dark and melancholy is the present condition of Mexico; and the 
prospect of a better state of things seems to be almost as far distant 
as at the moment of her first taking up arms. Her limits embrace 
an extended territory, rich in mineral and agricultural wealth; but 
the population is lazy, ignorant, and, what is worse, mismanaged. 
Religion is at a low ebb, and education has not been long enough at- 
tended to for its beneficial effects to be sensibly felt. Her trade^ 
compared with what it might be, is nothing. Indeed, it is impossible 
for the commerce of a state, weighed down by the chains of tyranny 
and misrule, to flourish aniidst disturbances, caused by frequent re- 
volution and anarchy. Industry thrives only when sheltered by 
peace; she shrinks from servitude. Genius languishes without the 
incentive of emulation, and expires when deprived of the pabulum of 
hope. There can be neither emulation nor hope where propriety and 
morality are not duly respected. Nothing can be a better eulogium 
on civil liberty, nor better show the necessity of guarantee to the 
rights of man than the fact, that it is impossible for man to toil suc- 
cessfully when his labors go solely to enrich hard masters, or tyran- 
nical and impolitic rulers. Then, how can we expect Mexico to 
prosper till she be regenerated, by education, to a sense of her own 
condition ? 

These remarks may be harsh, but the reader will bear in mind 
they are general, and there are many, very many, bright exceptions 
to what has been censured. I have aimed at truth, and I believe I 
have hit the mark; and if 1 have inflicted a wound on any individual, 
I can only declare, 

*• No levell'd malice 
Infects one coma in the course I hold " 



CONCLUSION, 



VOYAGE TO PERU. 543 



CHAPTER LI. 



November, 1837. 



On the 11th day of December, 1836, we set sail from Acapulco, 
and stood to the southward. The wind was light, the weather rainy 
and unpleasant; and, a few days after sailing, an epidemic typhoid 
fever appeared on board, which yielded, in every case, to the plan 
of treatment adopted. On the 9.7i\\ we crossed the equator in 88° 
west longitude, and on the 3d of January, 1837, anchored at Payta, 
whence we sailed again on the 5th. After a tedious passage of twenty 
days, we arrived at Callao, and found that a war was waging between 
Chile and Peru, and the port blockaded by a Chilian squadron, un- 
der the command of Admiral Blanco. Owing to the period of en- 
listment of her crew having expired, the U. S. frigate Brandywine, 
Commodore Wadsworth, had sailed, a few days previously, for the 
United States, leaving our interests to the protection of the U. S. 
schooner Boxer, Lieutenant Commandant, Hugh N. Page, absent on 
the leeward coast of Peru. 

Almost immediately after our arrival at Callao, the following com- 
munications were made to Commodore Kennedy, and we were 
obliged to assume the protection of our interests upon the coast, at a 
time when all were anxious to return to the United States. But it 
is vain to complain that a sailor's life is a dog's life, though we feel 
it so at this moment^ for, " cojegera de perro y lagrimas de muger no 
valen nada." 

" Legation of the United States. 

^ Lima, January 2StIi, 1837. 

Sir, 

" I do myself the honor to lay before you a copy of a letter of this 

date, addressed to me by the principal commercial houses in this 

place, requesting my good offices with you to procure a detention of 

the naval force under your command, until the present difficulties 



544 MR. larned's letter. 

between Chile and Peru are adjusted, or there be a certainty of the 
early arrival of some other public vessel, competent to afford the ne- 
cessary protection to our interest here. 

" Without entering into all the motives set forth in the letter al- 
luded to, for desiring the presence of your force, or intending to be 
understood as fully sanctioning some of them, I most cordially and 
unhesitatingly join in the request, that, if in your estimation it be 
not incompatible vi^ith other paramount objects of public service, 
(which, under existing circumstances, would seem difficult,) you 
would consent to remain at Callao until the arrival of the expected 
relief squadron, or of some one or more of its vessels, capable of 
giving to our valuable interests here the desirable security; and I 
think, that in so doing, you will render an important service to our 
commerce and common country. 

I have the honor to be. 

With great respect, 

Your obedient servant, 

Samuel Larned, 
To Commodore Edmund P. Kennedy, 

Commanding the U. States Naval Forces in the Pacific." 

" Lima, January 28, 1837. 
Sir, 

" The arrival of the United States Ship Peacock, at a moment so 
fraught with danger to neutral interests, and when, by the unavoida- 
ble departure of the Brandywine, we have been left without any ef- 
ficient protection for the large amount of American property now on 
the coast, and shortly expected, induces us to hope, that we will not 
again be left unprotected, and that by a representation to Commo- 
dore Kennedy, of our situation, and of the state of affairs between 
Chile and Peru, he will consent to postpone, for the present, his de- 
parture from Callao. 

*' By last accounts from Valparaiso, war had been declared by Chile 
against Peru, and we have every reason to fear, that the former will 
soon endeavor to establish a blockade of the principal Peruvian 
ports. 

" Several Chilian vessels of war are on the coast; some are at an- 
chor in the Bay of Callao; others are watching the Peruvian vessels 
shut up in Guyaquil; so that, in case a blockade be declared, we 
have no hope of its being raised by any force which Peru can now 
oppose to the enemy's squadron. 



LETTER FROM AMERICAN MERCHANTS TO MR. LARNED. 545 

" Most of the American vessels trading to this coast, bring a large 
portion of their cargoes adapted to the Lima market, and some are 
daily expected, known to have valuable cargoes, purchased expressly 
for this place. If they be turned oft' from Callao, the goods must be 
deposited at great expense and imminent risk at other ports; and, 
perhaps, many of them of a perishable nature, be entirely lost before 
they can be again brought to this market. 

" It is also generally believed, that the French will not allow an 
immediate blockade;— and we might, in event of being without an 
efficient naval force, have the mortification of seeing vessels of other 
nations convoyed in, and those bearing our flag turned away, for 
want of a force to cause our rights to be respected. We deem it, 
n.oreover, extremely dangerous, at all times, to see many vessels 
ci'uising under the flags of these countries; their inability to officer 
them properly, and pay them punctually, always rendering their 
neighborhood a common danger to all who are unprotected, or weaker 
than themselves. 

" We are aware that the Peacock is on her way home, from a long 
and arduous cruise; that her officers and men had no idea of being 
detained long here; and that the Commodore must naturally feel 
anxious to submit to our government the important results obtained 
by his cruise. But, at the same time, we are too well aware of his 
devotedness to the service of his countrymen, to doubt, for a moment, 
his desire of protecting their interests whenever he may find them in 
danger; and that if it be possible for him to delay his departure from 
Callao until the difficulties between Chile and Peru be adjusted, or 
until there be a certainty of the early arrival of some other Ameri- 
can vessel of war, competent to our protection, that he will do so 
for the reasons already stated. 

" It is with this view that we have the honor to address you, and re- 
spectfully to request, that you will use your exertions with Commo- 
dore Kennedy to induce him to remain, and afford us by his pre- 
sence the protection so much to be desired for the security of Ame- 
rican interests. 

'* We are, sir, with great respect, 

Your most obedient servants, 

Alsop & Co. 

Edward M'Call & Co. 

Samuel Larned, Esq. 

Charge d'affaires of the U. S. 

near the Government of Peru." 
69 



546 LETTER FROM COMMODORE BALLARD 

On the 6th of March, the U. S. Schooner Enterprise, Lieutenant 
Commandant George N. HoUins, arrived at Callao from Valparaiso, 
where she arrived on the 6th of February, after a passage of 52 days 
from Acapulco. The Chilian squadron had withdrawn from Callao, 
and it was thought advisable, that the Peacock should visit Valpa- 
raiso. On the 13th of March, she set sailj on the 31st, anchored at 
the island of Juan Fernandez, and, sailing the next day, anchored at 
Valparaiso on the 4th of April. 

On the first of May, we got under way, and, after a boisterous pas- 
sage, anchored at Pisco on the 18th, and at Callao on the 21st. 

In the afternoon of the 26th, the U. S. Ship North Carolina, bear- 
ing the broad pendant of Commodore Henry E. Ballard, arrived, and 
we all felt that we should be homeward bound, but fate determined 
that it should be otherwise. Our ship was required still to remain, 
for the trial of a seaman named Charles Field, who murdered his 
shipmate Blye Gryle, on board of the U. S. Schooner Boxer, on the 
night of the 28th of February. He was tried, condemned and exe- 
cuted. 

The following letter, which explains itself, was received by Com- 
modore Kennedy, to whose kindness I am indebted for a copy of it. 

"United States Ship North Carolina, 

Harbor of Callao, June 1st, 1837. 
Sir, 

" My absence at Lima on public duty, for a few days past, has de- 
prived me of the honor of sooner acknowledging the receipt of your 
communication of Saturday last, together with the package left for 
me by Commodore Wadsworth. 

'* I cannot deny myself the pleasure afforded by this opportunity of 
tendering to you my thanks, for the very important service you have 
rendered our country, in consenting, at the request of our country- 
men resident at Lima and at Valparaiso, to assume the command of 
the naval station, at a moment so important to our commerce in this 
sea. — And I entertain no doubt but the Honorable the Secretary of 
the Navy, will have equal pleasure in giving credit where so much is 
due. 

*• In the conversation had with you a few days since, I adverted to 
the possibility of my being constrained by the urgent solicitations of 
the merchants of Lima and Valparaiso, to ask your concurrence in 
the expediency of detaining the Schooner Enterprise on this station — 
which is rendered, it seems to me, absolutely necessary by the bellige- 
rent attitude assumed by the governments of Peru and Chile, to- 



TO COMMODORE KENNEDY. 547 

wards each other — by the prospect of a blockade of the ports of Peru 
by the Chilian squadron — and bj the unfortunate state of the rudder 
of this shipj which will preclude the possibility of my going; to sea 
until a piece of timber can be procured from Talcahuano, sufficiently 
large to repair it — or until I can receive a new one from the United 
States. 

** Under these circumstances I beg leave to ask in all frankness, 
whether you will have any thing of importance yet to accomplish, on 
your way homeward, that will be likely to suffer from my detaining 
the Enterprise in this sea; and whether you will be able to give such of 
her crew as may be entitled to return to the United States, a passage 
in your ship. 

'* Justice and a sense of propriety, seem to demand that the un- 
fortunate man charged with the crime of murder should be brought 
to trial with as little delay as the nature of the service will allow, 
as well as that a court competent to try a case of so much importance, 
should be composed of officers of more rank than those I could con- 
trol, were you to sail. 

" Under such solemn considerations, I deem it a duty I owe to the 
service as well as to the unfortunate being who is charged with a crime 
that may touch his life, to take upon myself the responsibility of de- 
taining your ship for a few days longer, until the arrival of the Boxer^ 
in which vessel are all the witnesses, as well as the person exhibiting 
the charge. 

" In rendering myself thus instrumental in detaining you a few days 
longer from your country and your friends — I am not without the 
hope, that the detention may be the means of restoring to better health, 
those brave fellows under your command, who have suffered so much 
during a cruise abounding with enterprise, and with suffering. 
I have the honor to be, 
Your most obedient servant, with great respect^ 
Henry E. Ballard, 
Commodore commanding in Chief the 
Naval Forces of the U. S. in the Pacific Oceao. 

Commodore E. P. Kennedy, 

Commanding the United States 
East India Squadron." 

It was determined that the Enterprise should be left under the 
command of Commodore Ballard. All the necessary changes were 
made, and, on the 5th of July, the joyful cry of the boatswain, •* All 



548 HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 

hands up anchor for home," sounded through the ship; and, after we 
were under sail, a thousand voices cheered our parting with loud 
huzzas from the North Carolina's rigging, and, at sunset, we bade 
farewell to Callao. 

The next day we anchored in the roads of Huacho, and sailed 
again on the 7th, after completing our supplies of wood and stock. 
On the 7th of August we passed the meridian of Cape Horn; and on 
the 23d, after a passage of forty-six days, anchored at Rio de Janeiro. 

On the 2d of September we sailed, and arrived at Bahia (or St. 
Salvador) on the 15th. We again got under way on the 19th, bound 
directly home. We now became impatient to reach the termination 
of our toils and privations, which had not been few. Every breeze 
inspired hope, and was hailed with joy; and every calm cast a gloom 
almost amounting to despair. Our anxieties and impatience increased 
as the distance lessened, and the last few days of the voyage round 
the world were spent in conjecturing and speculating upon the day 
of arrival. Every heart beat high with hope; yet there was mingled 
with it an emotion of fear — a foreboding that we might not meet all 
who were dear to us, as we had left them; eight months had passed 
since any of us had heard from our friends, and, in that period, how 
many might not have been swept from among the living? The home- 
staying can scarcely comprehend the emotions which sway the breast 
of the sea-weary voyager, as he approaches the coast of his country 
after years of absence, nor appreciate the gleams of joy shot up from 
the depths of the heart, at the cheering cry of " Land, Oh!" 

The long wished -for hour arrived. On the 26th of October we 
descried the coast of Virginia, and soon afterwards a graceful pilot- 
boat caught our view. In an hour more, the pilot came on board, 
but could give us no information, not even a newspaper, and it was 
not till the next day the Peacock anchored opposite to the city of 
Norfolk, after an absence of more than two years and a half. 

A long and weary round we have been together; but here, gene- 
rous Reader, we must part, and let me indulge a hope, there is no 
unkindness in our parting; for I would crave thy greeting, should we 
meet again, to while away an idle hour in talk about other lands: and, 
take my last word for it, there is no realm beyond the broad seas to 
compare with our own, in the blessings of rational liberty, or the af- 
fluence of nature — none wherein men may be so happy and so blest. 

THE END. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX. 



XIST OF OFFICERS ATTACHED TO THE U. S. SHIP PEACOCK 



April, 1835. 



Edmund P. Kennedy, 

C. K. Stribling, 

George N. Hollins,f 

William Green, 

Charles C. Turner, 

Murray Mason, 

W. S. W. Ruschenbergerjr 

David Harlan, 

T, G. M'Cauley,* 

S. W. Godon,t 

Addison Searle,* 

Charles H. Goldsborough,* 

J. D. Mendenhall,f 

John WeemSjf 

William Rogers Taylor,f 

William Leigh,f 

B. S. B. Darlington,! 

John Contee,* 

W. S. Drayton, 

George W. Chapman, 

Charles Richardson, 

E. S. Hutter, 

S. B. Lee,* 

R. De Lancey Izard, 

I. C. WiUiamson,* 

John Clar, 



Commodore. 
Commander, (acting.) 
Lieutenant. 



Fleet Surgeon. 
Assistant Surgeon. 
Purser. 

Acting Master. 
Chaplain. 

Commodore's Secterary. 
Professor of Mathematics. 
Passed Midshipman. 



Midshipman. 



Captain's Clerk. 



* Did not perform the whole cruise. 

t Promoted to higher grade during the cruise. 



APPENDIX. 



551 



John Knight,* 
Archibald S, Lewis, 
James Ferguson, 
William Peterson,* 
Edmund Roberts, Esq., 4: 



Boatswain, (acting.) 
Gunner. 
Sail-maker. 
Carpenter, (acting.) 
Passenffer. 



Whole number of souls on board, including officers, seamen, ordinary seamen, 
landsmen, boys, and marines, 201. 



LIST OF OFFICERS OF THE U. S. SCHOONER ENTERPRISE. 



July, 1835. 



Archibald S. Campbell, § 
Richard L. Page, 
John C. Sharpe,I| 
Thomas R. Rootes, 
William F. M'Clenahan, 
Richard R. Waldi^on,!! 
Hendrick Norvell,|l 
James J. Forbes, 
William Ross Gardiner, || 
William G. Benham, 
Henry Cadwalader, 
Holt Wilson, 



Lieutenant Commanding. 

Lieutenant. 

" (acting.) 

" (acting.) 

Assistant Surgeon. 

Purser, (acting.) 

Passed Midshipman. 

Midshipman. 



Captain's Clerk. 



Total number on board, Including seamen, ordinary seamen, and boys, 80, 



4 Died at Macao, June 12, 1836. 

§ Died at Macao, June 3, 1836. 

I Invalided, and did not perform the whole crulse» 



559. 



ABSTRACT OF PASSAGES, &c., OF PEACOCK'S VOYAGE OF 
CIRCUMNAVIGATION. 



Date of 




Date of ar- 




Days at 


Distance run per 


sailing. 


From 


rival at 


The port of 


sea. 


log. 


1835. 




1835. 








April 23 


New York, 


June 11 


Rio de Janeiro, 


49 


5,589 miles. 


July 12 


Rio de Janeiro, 


Sept. 2 


Zanzibar, 


52 


6,457 


Sept. 8 


Zanzibar, 


Sept. 29 


Muscat, 


22 


2,119 


Oct. 10 


Muscat, 


Oct. 23 


Bombay, 


13 


812 


Dec. 4 


Bombay, 


Dec. 15 


Colombo, 


13 


870 


Dec. 24 


Colombo, 


1836. 








1836. 




Jan. 13 


Batavia, 


19 


1,897 


Feb. 17 


Batavla, 


March 26 


Siam Roads, 


27 


3,316 


April 20 


Siam, 


May 4 


Pulo Oby, 


14 


777 


May 5 


Pulo Oby, 


May 14 


Turon Bay, 


9 


593 


May 22 


Turon Bay, 


May 26 


Macao, 


4 


446 


June 23 


Macao, 


July 15 


Bonin Isles, 


22 


1,876 


July 21 


Bonin Isles, 


Sept. 7 


Honolulu, 


49 


4,791 


Oct. 9 


Honolulu, 


Oct. 24 


Monte-rey, 


15 


2,425 


Oct. 30 


Monte-rey, 


Nov. 12 


Mazatlan, 


13 


1,489 


Nov. 15 


Mazatlan, 


Nov. 18 


San Bias, 


3 


183 


Nov. 23 


San Bias, 


Dec. 3 


Acapulco, 


10 


667 


Dec. 11 


Acapulco, 


1837. 








1837. 




Jan. 3 


Payta, 


23 


2,290 


Jan. 5 


Payta, 


Jan. 25 


Callao, 


20 


1,233 


March 13 


Callao, 


March 31 


Juan Fernandez, 


18 


2,291 


April 1 


Juan Fernandez, 


April 4 


Valparaiso,' 


3 


360 


May 1 


Valparaiso, 


May 17 


Pisco, 


17 


1,520 


May 19 


Pisco, 


May 21 


Callao, 


2 


143 


July 5 


Callao, 


July 6 


Huacho, 


1 


80 


July 7 


Huacho, 


Aug-. 23 


Rio de Janeiro, 


46 


6,366 


Sept. 2 


Rio de Janeiro, 


Sept. 15 


Bahia, 


13 


1,460 


Sept. 19 


Bahia, 


Oct. 26 


Hampton Roads, 


27 

524 


4,031 




54,285 miles. 



Days in port, 



414 



INDEX AND TABLE OF CONTENTS. 





Page 




Page 


Acapulco, 


536 


Bankok, theatricals at, 


316 


Adam's peak. 


155 


Banquet at the palace of the Sul- 




Admiral's remonstrance, 


103 


tan of Muscat, 


79 


Agriculture of Java, 


238 


Banyans, 


35 


Ape, the white, of Siam, 


298 


Batavia, roads of, 


216 


Apothecary of Moutrah, 


76 


" landing at, 


216 


Ambolee, 


146 


" entrance to the city of, 


218 


American cotton goods, 


47 


" old town of, 


219 


Amphibious child, 


279 


" new city of, 


221 


Animal mistaken for an island. 


20 


" hall of science, 


222 


Animals of Zanzibar, 38,45 


" population of, 


223 


" of Ceylon, 


171 


" in the rainy season, 


224 


" (white) of Siam, 


348 


" mortality at, 


224 


Ants' eggs, how eaten, 


296 


" climate of, 


225 


Arabian sea, voyage across the. 


97 


" at night, 


226 


Arabs, character of, 


86 


" China camp, 


227 


" complexion of, 


29 


" use of tobacco atj 


218 


" costume of, 


38 


" bank of. 


241 


Arab mode of courtship, 


73 


Bazaar at Muscat, 


71 


Arab feast at Muscat, 


80 


" Bombay, 


100 


Arab females, character of, 


73 


" Bankok, 


315 


" " dress of. 


72 


Bedouins visit the ship, 


56 


Arab hunter. 


31 


Bedouin warrior, 


57 


Arms and ornaments of Negroes 


■ 


Bedouins, skirmish with, 


59 


at Zanzibar, 


30 


" description of, by the 




Armorers at Zanzibar, 


45 


Sultan of Muscat, 


69 


Audience with the King of Siam 


330 


Beggars at Bombay, 


129 


Aviary at Macao, 


380 


Beloches, 


, 76 






" town of the, 


77 


Ball on board, 


19 


" hut of. 


77 


" at Ceylon, 


209 


Birds' nests, 


241 


Bandora, 


146 


Birds of Paradise, 


244 


Banka, strait of, 


251 


Boat of ceremony, 


270 


" island of, 


252 


Boat sent to Muscat, 58, 62 


Bankok, arrive at, 


275 


Boats, attempt of Bedouins upon. 


60 


" mission house at. 


276 


Boats used at the pearl fishery 




" city of. 


277 


of Ceylon, 


197 


" population of. 


279 


Bombay, harbor of, 


98 


" Chinese residents at, 


280 


" view of the town of, 


98 


" currency of, 
70 


285 


" island of, 


104 



554 


INDEX. 






Page 




Page? 


Bombay, town of, 


105 


Ceylon missionary establish- 




" population of. 


105 


ments. 


167 


" commerce of. 


106 


" climate of. 


16» 


" government of, 


107 


" productions of, 


169 


" historical sketch of, 


108 


" commerce of. 


173^ 


" climate of, 


104 


" minerals of, 


171 


" departure from, 


153 


" government of. 


173^ 


" presidency, 


109 


" revenue of. 


174 


" " population of, 


114 


" history of, 


176 


Bonin Isles, 


438 


" exports 


179 


Book, Siamese, 


260 


" jewellers of, 


203 


Books, Siamese mode of reading, 


314 


" spicy breezes of. 


205 


Books presented to Momfanoi, 


347 


China and the Chinese, 


420 


Borneo, island of. 


253 


Chinese females, 


391 


" population of, 


254 


" cookery, 


398 


" products of, 


254 


" weights, 


399 


" dayaks of, 


254 


" policy. 


402 


" head-hunting in, 


255 


Cholera on board. 


326 


Boudha of Emerald, 


323 


Chowfaya, 


291 


Buitenzorg, road to. 


228 


Church at Bombay, 


117 


" Belle Vue at, 


229 


Cinnamon, 


17a 


" garden at, 


230 


Cinnamon tree. 


207 


Bunder, the new, (Bombay,) 


99 


" garden, 


207 


Bunder-boat, 


138 


" oil, 


208 






Climate of Muscat, 


67 


Gaffes at Muscat, 


74 


" Zanzibar, 


46 


Calm, 


20 


" Bombay, 


104 


Calms, effects of long continued 


, 22 


" Ceylon, 


169 


California, Upper, 


507 


" Batavia, 


225 


" " government of, 508 


« Macao, 


380 


" judiciary of. 


508 


" Tepic, 


534 


" history of, 


514 


" San Bias, 


526 


" expedition of Cortes to, 516 


" Mazatlan, 


521 


" Lower, 


518 


Clove tree, history of, 


50 


Campbell, Lt. A. S., death of, 


371 


Cloves, value of. 


51 


Canorin, city of. 


145 


" oil of. 


207 


Canton, approach to, 


391 


Coast of Hindoostan, 


153 


" city of. 


393 


Cobra di Capello, 


161 


Cashmere shawls, 


135 


" venom of the. 


161 


Caste in India, 


125 


Cochin-China, coast of, 


349 


Catholics, expulsion of, from 




" territory of. 


364 


Oahu, 


471 


" departure from. 


369 


Cave of Camoens, 


381 


Cochin-Chinese costume, 


350 


Caves of Elephanta, 


139 


" language. 


350 


" Salsette, 


143 


" mandarin. 


352 


" Jogheyser, 


146 


" soldiers. 


352 


" India and Egypt, 


147 


" market women. 


353 


Cemetery at Macao, 


382 


" punctiliousness. 


358 


" at Zanzibar, 


39 


" physical character 


of 


Ceylonese, costume of the. 


158 


the. 


354 


Ceylon, approach to, 


154 


" treaty with the. 


357 


" island of. 


163 


" intercourse with the. 


358 


" population of, 


165 


Cocoanut, oil. 


39 


" mortality in, 


160 


" tree. 


44 






" uses of the, 


45 





INDEX. 


i)i)D 




Pago 




Page 


Coffee, export of, from Java, 


239 


Dutch policy in Java, 


232 


Coins of Muscat, 


87 


" trade with Japan, 


245 


*-' Ceylon, 


208 






« Siam, 


285 


Eclipse, Hindoo observance of. 


122 


Colombo, landing at, 


157 


Edict, Chinese, 


374 


" library at, 


159 


Education in Arabia, 


87 


" position of, 


201 


Eggs, when eaten by the Cochin 


- 


" inhabitants of, 


202 


Chinese, 


354 


" society at. 


209 


Elephant-tooth, articles made of 




" departure from, 


210 


the. 


204 


Commerce of Zanzibar, 


47 


Elephant-sword, 


295 


" Muscat, 


83 


Elephant, the working, 


208 


" Bombay, 


106 


Elephant, the mad white, 


320 


" Ceylon, 


173 


Elephants in Ceylon, 


171 


" Batavia, 


240 


" procession of, 


321 


« Siam, 


280 


" white. 


321 


" Sandwich Islands, 


488 


" spotted. 


322 


" California, 


506 


Elephanta Island, 


138 


Comoro Islands, 


25 


" caves of. 


139 


Conicoply, 


202 


Emerald Boudha, 


323 


Consultation at Mazatlan, 


523 


English, kindness of the. 


371 


Copal, 


45 


Enterprise, U. S. Schooner, 


19 


Coral Islands, formation of, 


43 


*' officers of the, 


551 


Court of justice at Zanzibar, -^ 


42 


Exchange, rate of, at Batavia, 


241 


Court of Siam, - 


332 


Experiments of Van den Bosch, 


238 


Cowries, 


285 


Exports from Ceylon, 


179 


Currency of Bombav, 


107 






/' of Siam, " 


285 


Faces, painting those of children 




Curiosity of the Siamese, 


328 


at Zanzibar, 


39 


Custom-house at Zanzibar, 


34 


Factories at Canton, 


393 


Cutter, cruise of the second. 


62 


Fast-boat, 


385 






Feast at Packnam, 


273 


Daus, 


48 


Feet of Chinese women, 


404 


Dayaks of Borneo, 


254 


Fisi), eaten raw at the Sandwich 




Debtors, how treated in Siam, 


289 


lis.ands. 


' 458 


Depopulation of the Sandwich 


I 


" fattening of. 


463 


Islands, 


480 


" great quantities at Muscal 


t, 75 


Devotee, 


122 


" places of resort of. 


24 


Dhonies, 


156 


" diet, effects of. 


24 


Diamonds of Ceylon, 


205 


" the porcupine. 


22 


Diplomacy in Cochin-China, 


358 


" the sucking, 


24 


" Sandwich Islands, 495 


Fishing of sharks, 


24 


Discipline, advantages of, 


61 


Floating Islands, 


257 


Diseases of Ceylon, 


169 


Formosa, island of, 


437 


Dispensary of the missionaries 


3 


Fuel, material used for, at Bom- 




at Bankok, 


312 


bay, 


119 


Dockyard at Bombay, 


101 


Funeral at sea, 


451 


Doctor at Mazatlan, 


523 






Dog-eating, 


463 


Gambling in Siam, 


235 


Dubash, 


101 


Gamelan, 


235 


Duelling, an Arab's opinion of. 


86 


Games, suppression of, in the 




Dung, as fuel, 


119 


Sanclwich Isles, 


' 485 


Dungaree town. 


120 


Garden in Java, 


230 


Durbar, 


124 


Gold, Siamese manufacture of, 


328 


Dutch soldiers at Batavia, 


217 


Government of Bombay, 


107 


" society at Batavia, 


222 


Guinea worm, (disease of,) 


105 



\ 



556 



INDEX. 



Page 

Haines, S. B. Captain, letter from, 61 

Hair, mode of dying, 29 

Halil bin Hammet, 78 

Hamira's house, 40 

Hamira's notions of polygamy, 41 

Harem at Bankok, 304 

Hassan, Captain, 28 

" house of, 37 

Head-hunting in Borneo, 255 

Hindoo new-year, 100 

Hindoos, costume, 119 

" females, 119 

" religion, 148 

" gods of the, 148 

Hindoo temple, 122 

" observance of an eclipse, 122 

" devotee, 122 

" state desired by the, 123 

Holuthuria physalis, 20 

Holwah, (a sweetmeat,) 75 

Homeward voyage, 548 

Hongs, 394 

Honolulu, harbor of, 453 

" town of, 453 

India, (British) stipendiary 

princes of. 111 
" subsidiary 

princes of, 112 

" feudatory chiefs, 113 

India, British, 115 

Infanticide, 481 

Islands — Comoro, 25 

" Zanzibar, 26 

" Pemba, 53 

" Tumbat, 26 

" Mazeira, 61 

" Bombay, 104 

" Elephanta, 138 

« Salsette, 142 

Ceylon, 163 

« Java, 235 

Banka, 252 

" Sumatra, 252 

" Borneo, 253 

« Si-chang, 259 

Pulo Oby, -348 

« Pulo Condore, 349 

" Formosa, 437 

" Bonin, 438 

Sandwich, 452 

Jan thin a, 21 

Japan, Dutch trade with, 245 

Japanese at Macao, 383 

Java, posting in, 227 



Java, island of, 
" population of, 
" history of, 
" government of, 
" products of, 

Javan costume, 
" prince, 
" music, 
" krises. 



Page 

1235 
235 
236 
237 
244 
219 
233 
234 
234 



Kenery, caves of, 143 

Khunger, 41 

Khon paa, 294 

King of Siam, titles of the, 289 

" audience with the, 330 

" person of the, 332 

" mode of convers- 

ing with the, 333 
" presents to the, 343 

King of the Sandwich islands, 458 
Koran, verses of, affixed to the 

doors in Zanzibar, 38 
" great respect shown to 

the, 42 

Krises, 234 

Lagor, king of, 326 

Laos organ, 295 

Language, the Anglo-Chinese, 396 
Lapidaries at Colombo, 204 

Lawatias, tribe and town of, 78 

Letter, iVrab mode of folding, 41 
" from Captain Haines, 61 

" from the Sultan of Mus- 
cat, 65 
" from Commodore Ken- 
nedy, 65 
« from Mr. Roberts, 89 
" to the P'hra Klang, 258 
" to the King of the Sand- 
wich Isles, 498 
" to Kinau, the high chief 

ofOahu, SOO 

" from Mr. Larned, 543 

" from the American mer- 
chants at Lima, 544 
" from Commodore Bal- 
lard, 546 
Lingii, 141 
Living at Bombay, 101 
" at Batavia, 220 
" at Canton, 394 
Lottery at Bankok, 285 
Luau, 462 
Luck-loi-natn, the child of the 
waters, 279 



INDEX. 



557 



Macao, 378 

" history of; 378 
' " Portuguese population 

of, 379 

" morals of, 380 

« climate of, 380 

" aviary at, 380 

" cave of Camoens, 381 

Malays, 219 

Mangustin, 215 

Mangouste, 160 

Manufactures from elephants' 

teeth, 204 

Market of dogs and cats, 398 

Matchlock, 31 

" mode of charging, 32 

Mazatlan, climate of, 521 

Mazatlan, town of, 522 

Mazeira, island of, 61 
Measurement of the Maria 

Theresa, 329 
Measures of Siam, 286 
Medusa porpita, 20 
Meinara river, entrance to, 263 
" voyage up the, 274 
Meleagrina Margaritifera, 187 
Mendenhall, J. D., death of, 451 
Merchants of Siam, 281 
Mexico and the Mexicans, 539 
Mission house at Bankok, 276 
Missionary school at Bombay, 124 
Missionaries at Bombay, charac- 
ter of, 127 
« at Ceylon, 187 
" at Batavia, 232 
« at Bankok, 310 
" " reasons 
for changing their residence, 313 
Missionaries at the Sandwich 

Islands, 464 
Missionary hymn, 476 
Missions in California, 507 
Mode of burying at Zanzibar, 34 
Molusca, sailors fishing for, 20 
Momfanoi, " the Prince of hea- 
ven," 262 
« visit to, 292 
« palace of, 293 
" dinner with, 296 
" character of, 297 
Money table of Siam, 286 
Monte-rey, harbor of, 605 
" trade of, 506 
Mortality in Ceylon, 166 
" at Batavia, 224 
Moutrah, town of, 75 



Page 

Muscat, approach to, 67 

" climate of, 67 

" harbor of, 68 
" description of, by a sailor, 72 

" commerce of, 83 

" coins of; 87 

" departure from, 97 

Museum at Colombo, 162 

Naiheanaina, the Princess, 460 

Napier, Lord, in China, 387 

Navy of the Sultan of Muscat, 85 
New year, Hindoo celebration 

of the, 100 

Nobility, Siamese badges of, 303 

Nonparel, 121 



Oahu, arrive at. 


452 


" climate of. 


456 


" soil of. 


456 


" products of. 


456 


" civilization of. 


457 



Officers of the boat of ceremony, 271 
Oil mill at Zanzibar, 39 

Oil, cocoanut, 39 

Oil of cinnamon, 208 

Oil of cloves, 207 

Opium, consumption of, in China, 386 
Orders, mode of conveying at sea, 19 
Organ of Laos, 295 



Paddy mill. 


267 


Paknam, 


264 


" Governor of. 


265, 325 


" lodgings at. 


268 


" feast at. 


273 



Palace of the Sultan of Muscat 

at Zanzibar, 32 

Palanquin, 99 

Palanquin-carriage, 206 

Parsee bible, 133 

Parsees, creed of the, 132 

" character of the, 133 

" history of the, 137 

" female costume, 134 

Parol, 121 

Peacock, U. S. Ship, 12 

" " on shore, 55 

Pearl River, 390 

Pearl banks, 193 

Pearl fishing, 194 

Pearl divers, 198, 200 

Pearl fishery, value of, 196 

Pearls of Barhein, 82 

Pearls, composition of, 192 

Pearls, extrication of, 200 



558 



INDEX. 



Page 

Pearls, formation of, 191 

Pearl oysters, 187 

Pearl oysters, supposed origin of, 188 
Pearl oysters, habits of, 189 

Pearl oysters, age of, 190 

Pedlars at Bombay, 128 

Pedlars, aquatic, 154 

Pemba, Island of, . 53 

Phrenology at Zanzibar, 52 

atBankok, 297 

« at Canton, 418 

Phya Ratsa-pa-vade, visit to, 303 
Phya Si-pi-pat, 307, 308 

Piadade, 266 

Pilot, Chinese, 370 

Pilot at Zanzibar, 27 

Pirates, shells so called, 448, 53 

Pirates, Chinese, 437 

Policy of the Dutch in Java, 232 
Poor of India, 121 

Portuguese men-of-war, 20, 21 

Posting in Java, 227 

Poultry of Cochin-China, 364 

" of Acapulco, 538 

Prayer, Mohammedan ob- 
servance of, 86 
Presents to the Sultan of Muscat, 91 
Presents to the King of Siam, 343 
Press at Bombay, 102 
Pulo Oby, 348 
Pulo Condore, . 349 

Ramparts at Colombo, 162 

Rank, distinction of, in Siam, 303 

~ Religion at Bombay, 118 
■"Religion, women's influence 

upon, 120 

~ Religion of the Hindoos, 148 

° of the Siamese, 290 

"Religious signs at Bombay, 132 

^Repository, the Chinese, 389 

Rice, not to be exported from 

Siam, 344 

"Right and wrong, the sense of, 481 

Rio de Janeiro, harbor of, 15 

" departure from, 19 

River Meinam, 263 

Roberts, Edmund, death of, 373 

Rosary of the Mohammedans, 38 

Salsette, Island of, 142 

" Caves of, 143 

Salt, tax on, 172 

Sandals, Arabian, 29 

" removed to show respect, 40 



Sampans at Bankok, 
San Bias, 
Sandwich Islands, 
Sandwich Islands, population 

of the. 
Sandwich Islands, government 

of the. 
Sandwich Islands, commerce 

of the. 
Sandwich Islands, treaty with 

the. 
School at Zanzibar, 
Sea, phosphorescence of the, 
Sea, love of the, 
Sea-sickness, treatment of, 
Seid Carlid, the prince, 
Serpent-charmers, 
Shark-charmers, 
Shark-fishery, 
Shark, mode of catching, 
Shawls of Cashmere, 
Shells, hunting for, 
Ship on shore near Mazeira, 
Shuttlecock, played with the 

feet, 
Siam, commerce of, 
" revenue of, 
" taxes in, 
" gambling in, 
" weights and measures, 
" extent of, 
" King's titles, 
" government of, 
" debtors how treated in, 
" religion of, 
" throne of, 
" library of, 
" history of, 
" treaty with, 
" rice not exported from, 
" departure from, 
" white animals of, 
Siamese, physical character 

of the, 
Siamese, the moral character 

of the, 
Siamese book, 
" twins, 
" attention, 
" merchants, 
" trade, 
" measure of time, 
" badges of nobility, 

ladies, 
" sign of friendship, 



278 
526 

478 

479 

486 

488 

492 

42 

53 

13 

13 

33 
131 
199 

24 

23 
135 
447 

54 

300 

280 

282 

284 

285 

286 

288 

289 

289 

289 <. 

290 

292 

323 

336 

340 

S44 

347 

348 

299 

300- 
260 

268 
270 

280 
282 
287 
303 
305 
307 



INDEX. 



559 



Page 

Siamese manners, effects of, 309 

" Princess, costume of a, 324 

"' Prince, costume of a, 324 

" curiosity, 328 

" etiquette, 328 

Si-chang island, 259 

Sia-Yut'hia, 320 

Slave market at Zanzibar, 34 

Sleep, profound of the crew, 60 

Smith, Captain, 511 

Society at Colombo, 209 

" at Macao, 383 

" at Canton, 395 

Sowalies, 46 

Squirrels, white, 260 

St. Thomas' Church, 117 

Sugar, export of, from Java, 239 

Sultan of Muscat, kindness of 

the, 63, 64 

Sultan ofMuscat, letter from the, 65 
" officers visit the, 68 

" extent of his 

dominions, 81 

Sultan of Muscat, title of the, 84 
" history of the, 84 

" character of the, 85 

" take leave of the, 88 

" English Admi- 

ral, and the, 103 

Sumatra, pepper ports of, 252 

Sunda, Straits of, 214 

Swan-pan, 399 

Swords, comparison of, at Zan- 
zibar, 40 

Talapoins, (priests,) 290, 314 

Tax on salt, 172 

Taxes in Siam, 284 

Taxes in the Sandwich Isles, 487 
Tayef, 49 

Tea, cultivation of in Java, 231 

Tea-garden, Canton, 403 

Tea, history of, 405 

Tea-plant, 406 

Temperature is not climate, 252 
Topic, ride to, 527 

Tepic, city of, 533 

Theatricals in Siam, 316 

Theft, Siamese mode of detecting, 301 
Throne of Siam, succession to the, 292 



Pago 

Titles of the King of Siam, 289 

Time, Siamese measure of, 287 

Tobacco, the use of, 538 

Toddy, 45 

Tortillas, - 532 

Trade with Java, 240 

Trade, Dutch with Japan, 245 

Trappers, 510 

Treaty with Muscat, 91 
Treaty with Siam, delivery of the 

American copy of the, 319 
Treaty with Siam, delivery of the 

Siamese copy of the, 335 

Treaty with Siam, 340 

Treaty with Siam, defect in the, 344 

Treaty with Cochin-China, 357 
Treaty with the Sandwich 

Islands, 492 

Treaty with Mexico, 506 

Trees, dwarfed, 403 

Turon bay, 349 

Turtle-hunting, 443 

Tutenague, 401 

Upas plant, 230 

Venom of the Cobra, 161 

Venus dione, 526 

Waterloo Square, Batavia, 222 

Watering at Zanzibar, 33 

Watering at Muscat, 75 

Wat P'hra-si-ratanat, 322 

Wat, the Queen's, 323 

Weaving at Muscat, 77 

Wells at Zanzibar, 39 

Wells at Muscat, 74 

Wives, expense of in Arabia, 73 ^ 

Xalisco, 534 

Zanzibar, Island of, 26 

" Owen's chart of, 27 
" vegetable products of, 44 

" position of, 44 

" climate of, 46 

" population of 46 

" harbor of, 34 

" commerce of, 47 

Zebu, 46 



Lb '"'"■33 



^ 



^ ^. 



